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A limited-slip differential and a locking differential are not the same thing. Both are designed to maximize available torque to the wheel or wheels with the most traction, but they accomplish this in different ways and have different applications.

Open Differential Problem

Both limited-slip and locking differentials solve a problem with the standard open differential found on most passenger cars. This open differential allows the wheels to spin at different speeds to help in cornering, but will allow excessive wheel spin when one wheel loses traction. This tricks the system into sending too much torque to the slipping wheel.

Locking Differential

A locking differentials key feature is its ability to force both of the drive wheels to rotate at the exact same speed regardless of traction needs. The benefit of the locking mechanism, either automatic or driver-selectable, comes in when one of the wheels is slipping. The differential will continue to send torque to both wheels equally and the wheel with traction will provide motion.

Limited-Slip Differential

A limited-slip differential allows the wheels to continue to turn at different speeds without locking to each other completely but can limit the amount of torque sent to the spinning wheel and maximize the torque sent to the wheel with the best traction. The limited-slip differential is common on sports cars as well as all-wheel drive vehicles.

Although it does not happen very often, from time to time the differential in a rear wheel drive car will fail and the ring gear will need replacement. Replacing the ring gear is a job normally left to professional technicians because of the tools and knowledge needed to measure the precise tolerances during reassembly. However, a do-it-yourselfer with some advanced skills can do the job at home.

Instructions

Preparing the Vehicle

1

Place a wheel chock in front of each of the front tires. Center the lifting pad of a floor jack under the differential. Jack up the vehicle until the floor deck supports the weight of the vehicle, and the rear wheels are still in contact with the ground.

2

Turn the lug nuts, which hold the tires to the vehicle, counterclockwise with a lug wrench to loosen them. Just loosen the lug nuts, do not remove them.

3

Jack up the vehicle with the floor jack until the tires are no longer are in contact with the ground. Place a jack stand under each axle tube and lower the vehicle so that the rear axle tubes rests on the jack stands. Adjust the jack stands high enough that the rear wheels are still off the ground when the vehicle is resting on them by pulling the ratcheting center post of each jack stand up as close to the axle tube as it will go.

4

Remove the lug nuts and tires from the vehicle.

Removing the Axle Shafts

5

Place a drain pan underneath the differential. Turn the differential cover bolts counterclockwise using the appropriate size socket on a ratchet wrench. Drive a screwdriver between the cover and the differential by gently tapping it with a hammer to break the seal, and remove the differential cover allowing the gear lube in the differential to drain into the drain pan.

6

Turn the bolt that secures the cross pin counterclockwise with the ratchet wrench and appropriate size socket to remove it. Remove the cross pin.

7

Push each axle shaft in from the outside and remove the C-clip from the other end of each axle shaft. Remove the axle shafts from the vehicle by pulling them straight out from the outside.

Removing the Ring Gear

8

Make an identification mark on each of the carrier caps with the center punch and hammer to ensure the carrier caps are reassembled in their original positions.

9

Remove the upper and lower bolts from each carrier cap and remove the caps. Remove the carrier and ring gear assembly from the differential.

10

Turn the bolts that attach the ring gear to the carrier counterclockwise with a ratchet wrench and appropriate socket to remove them. Remove the ring gear, completing the operation.