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BMW based its 7 series of cars, made from 1994 to 2001, on its E38 platform. The 740I --- the most popular vehicle in the series --- featured an eight-cylinder, 4.4-liter engine. All of the engines in this series use fuel injection, which requires a fuel injector to deliver fuel to the engines at high pressure. The fuel injectors for the E38 incidents are part of the fuel rail assembly on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the front of the fuel rail.

2

Attach a pair of locking pliers to the adjustment screws on the hose clamps for the fuel return line on the fuel rail. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen the clamps and disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail. Remove the flare nut on the fuel line with a 12-millimeter socket and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.

3

Spray compressed air around the base of the fuel injectors to keep debris out of the injector ports. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a 10-millimeter socket.

4

Pad the corner of the valve cover with a clean shop towel and pry the fuel rail with a small pry tool to lift the injectors out of the manifold. Push the fuel lines to the side and remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

5

Pull the fuel injectors from the fuel rail assembly and connect the new fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail assembly to the engine and fasten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail.

6

Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail with the flare nut. Connect the fuel return line to the fuel rail by attaching the hose clamps and fasten the retaining screws on the clamps.

7

Connect the vacuum hose to the front of the fuel rail and attach the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors. Replace the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench.

The exhaust manifold collects the exhaust from all of the cylinders and channels it away from the engine through the exhaust pipe. An exhaust manifold that is cracked will no longer work efficiently and you will need to replace it. Leaking exhaust exposes anyone riding in the car to carbon monoxide fumes as well. It does not take very long to replace the exhaust manifold on a Ford. You can do the job yourself in your driveway with some basic tools.

Instructions

1

Cool the engine completely before you begin this project or severe burns could result. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the wiring harness from the electric fan. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator using a wrench. Disconnect the electrical wire from the heated oxygen sensor.

2

Remove the nut and bolt securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold using a wrench. Remove the bracket bolt from the oil dipstick tube using a wrench. Remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the manifold.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold by loosening the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine block. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gasket. Place a new exhaust manifold and gasket on the engine block. Tighten the retaining bolts with the socket and ratchet. Install the oil dipstick bracket and tighten the nut with a wrench.

4

Connect the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold and tighten the bolt and nut using a wrench. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet to tighten the bolts. Connect the electrical wire to the heated oxygen sensor. Install the electric fan to the radiator and tighten the bolts with a wrench.

5

Plug the wiring harness into the fan. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

Adjust the emergency brake on your Mustang right from your home garage and save money. You can adjust it from inside the car so you dont have to get yourself dirty by working under the car. Is time to adjust the parking brake when you park downhill and the parking brake starts to slip. This means that the parking brake cable has slackened inside the cable rod and needs to be tightened with the adjuster nut. Tension put on the emergency brake over time causes the parking brake to slip.

Instructions

1

Locate the parking brake in the front center of the inside of the vehicle. Remove the console cover that houses it.

2

Lift up the emergency brake lever four notches.

3

Look for the parking brake cable rod. On this rod is an adjuster nut. Turn that nut with the pliers until it is loose but make sure it doesnt fall off all the way.

4

Release the parking brake and tighten the nut.

5

Raise and lower the emergency brake lever four times. This will set the adjustment of the parking brake.

6

Park the Mustang on a downhill slant and engage the parking brake only. It should hold the vehicle in place. If it doesnt, repeat the adjustment.

A cars fuel injection system supplies fuel to the engine. In order to get optimum performance from your vehicle, the fuel must flow at a steady pressure. Regulators control the fuel flow, making sure it is consistent. Like other mechanical parts, regulators can break down and require replacement. Symptoms of a faulty regulator include lower gas mileage, excess smoke from exhaust pipes and leaking oil from the engine. Replacing a fuel regulator can be a difficult task for inexperienced owners, but if you have basic car repair experience, you can save money and replace it yourself.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by opening the gas cap. Open the hood of the car and separate the cable from the negative battery terminal. Pull out the cushion on the rear seat. Remove the screws on the service hole cover and take off the cover.

2

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel pump assembly. Use the fuel line disconnect tool to unplug the fuel outlet pipe from the fuel pump bracket. Unscrew the retaining screws for the fuel pump bracket with the socket wrench. Pull off the return hoses from the bracket. Take the assembly out of the fuel tank.

3

Use the socket wrench to remove the fuel suction support from the fuel pressure regulator. Separate the fuel filter from the regulator. Find and remove the O-ring from the regulator.

4

Apply a thin coating of gasoline to the O-ring and insert it into the new fuel pressure regulator. Attach the regulator to the fuel filter. Connect the fuel suction support to the regulator using the wrench.

5

Replace the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank and reconnect the hoses to the fuel pump bracket. Attach the retaining screws to the fuel pump bracket and connect the fuel outlet pipe to the fuel pump bracket.

6

Reattach the wiring for the fuel pump assembly. Reinstall the service hole cover with the socket wrench. Reinstall the rear seat cushion and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Its a good idea to proceed with caution before agreeing to car repairs at a garage. Take a few days to compare garages to decide which car garage is the best for you.

Family and Friends

Many car owners have a trusted mechanic they turn to for repairs, but if the work needed on the car is outside the mechanics specialty, ask for a erral. Aside from your mechanic, ask family members or friends if they know of a good car garage. Chances are good someone you know has had to have their car repaired at a garage. They can offer some pointers on where to get the best deal.

Insurance Providers

Your insurance provider often has information on good car garages. Many car garages leave their business cards and information with car insurance companies because its the best way for them to get more business. Additionally, these garages must meet high standards and have certification before they are a business car insurance companies are willing to recommend.

Compare Estimates

Most car garages will provide you with a free estimate. Make sure you get a detailed list of estimates. Dont be surprised if the part you end up buying at the garage cost more than it would at an auto parts store.

Customer Service

Do the staff and mechanics act professional? Do they treat you with courtesy? Do they get work done on time? Do they work well together? How garage staff treat you now is not likely to change once you are their customer. Pay attention to how you feel being in this place of business and how others act toward you. If the mechanic is rude or the counter person would rather text instead of assisting you, take your business elsewhere.

Personnel and Credentials

Some car repair requires work done by a certified mechanic or a specialist. Some garages may have these mechanics, some may not. Make sure the garage is candid about what kind of repairs need to be done on your car and whether they have the right mechanics for the job. The better garage to go with is the one that has the kind of mechanic youll need for your car repair.

Years ago in the days of R12 rigerant, when an air-conditioning service port went bad on your automobile, a Schrader valve could simply be serviced by itself. In todays 134A world, things have gotten a bit more complicated and costly. You cannot just replace the inside of a Schrader valve; now you have to replace the entire line where the port is located.

Instructions

1

Connect either the high side or low side hose on an A/C servicing station to the appropriate service port. Do not connect a line from the air-conditioning servicing station to the defective port. Evacuate the R134a rigerant into the rigerant tank on the air-conditioning station by turning on the evacuation pump and running it until all the rigerant has left the system.

2

Disconnect both ends of the line with the defective service port and remove the line. Cover the connections on the A/C system with clean shop rags to prevent dirt and moisture from getting into the A/C system.

3

Inspect the connections for discoloration. If the connections are clean and slightly oily there are probably no other problems that caused the service port to go bad. Blackened connections could be a sign of internal compressor problems. Investigate further and perform any necessary repairs.

4

Connect the ends of the replacement line with the built-in service port just as the old line was connected. Ensure that any O-rings or seals at the ends of the lines are replaced and lubricated with mineral oil before the new line is installed.

5

Connect the other hose from the A/C servicing station to the replacement port. Start the evacuation pump and run it for 15 to 20 minutes to ensure that all the moisture has boiled out of the A/C system. Note the vacuum readout on the A/C station. Allow the system to sit for 10 minutes. Recheck the A/C stations vacuum readout to ensure there is no loss in vacuum. A loss indicates a leak in the system, probably in one of the two replacement line connections. Repair as needed.

6

Remove the service hose from the high side service port and start the vehicle. Turn the climate control switch to "Maximum." Set the machine to charge the system with R134a and the correct amount of compressor oil through the low side service valve. When enough rigerant is in the system, the air-conditioning compressor will start and draw the rest of the desired amount of rigerant and oil into the system. Remove the low side hose, completing the replacement of the service port.

Properly working headlights on a car are vital for your safety and the safety of other drivers on the road. Fixing the headlights on your Mitsubishi Eclipse is an easily implemented task with the use of just a screwdriver and a few minutes of your time. The specific headlight required for your Eclipse will depend on the year it was made so consult a auto parts specialist if there is any questions on the unit required for your specific car.

Instructions

1

Purchase you replacement headlight. Check with the auto parts representative for the correct fixture for your year of Eclipse vehicle and the proper side that you are fixing. They should be able to give you the exact part for your needs.

2

Turn your car off and remove the keys from the ignition. Pop the hood of your Mitsubishi and make sure that it is properly secured so it does not close while you are repairing the light.

3

Look at the rear of the light fixture and locate the four screws around the light perimeter that holds it in place. Remove these screws with a flathead or Phillips screwdriver, whichever that specific year of car and light fixture call for.

4

Place one hand on the back of the light fixture and one on the front. Gently but firmly push the light towards the front of the car. Stop pushing when you have pushed it forward 2 to 3 inches.

5

Work your fingers behind the light fixture and disconnect the wires that are connecting the light to the car. There will be up to three sets of wires. Pull the wires away from the unit gently to disconnect them and set the old light aside.

6

Remove your new headlight from the packaging and slide it into the space where the old light unit was. Connect the wires in the back of the new light, push the light into place, and secure the light into place with the four new screws that came with the new unit or the old screws.

7

Turn the lights on to test your new headlight. If for some reason it does not work properly, unscrew the unit and make sure the wiring is properly connected. If not, take the new unit back and get a different one to try.

The Acura TL was debuted in 1995 as a mid-size luxury sports vehicle. You can remove the rear seat on your 1999 Acura TL at home, saving yourself a trip to the dealer or mechanic. Sometimes it may become necessary to remove the rear seat so that you can have it reupholstered or replaced. It is kind of a heavy, bulky job but it doesnt take long to do. Allow about 30 minutes or less to complete the task once you have obtained a socket wrench set.

Instructions

1

Slide the front seats all the way forward to give yourself some room to work in the back.

2

Lift up the back of the rear seat cushion in the crevice to find a bolt. Remove the bolt with a socket wrench.

3

Pull the latches underneath the rear seat cushion forward to free them from their hooks. Remove the seat cushion from the Acura out one of the side doors.

4

Find three bolts under the seat back and two above the seat back near the headrests. Remove all five bolts with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the seat back forward and out of the vehicle.

Head studs increase the holding power between the engine block and the engine head. This keeps an installed head gasket in place when under the stress of a high horsepower engine. A head stud looks similar to a bolt without the hex head. The coarser threads of the stud hold secure in the threaded holes of an engine block and the finer threads hold a nut to keep the head secure to the engine block. Improperly installing head studs will cause damage to the engine block and to the head, costing you a lot of money in replacement parts.

Instructions

1

Spray brake cleaner into a threaded engine block hole. Push the end of a pipe cleaner into the hole to clear it of debris. Pull the pipe cleaner from the hole. Rotate the pipe cleaner and push the other end in the hole. Repeat the process of spraying brake cleaner and cleaning the hole with pipe cleaners until the end of the cleaner pulls from the hole free of debris.

2

Thread a chaser tap in the cleaned hole. Run the tap to the bottom of the hole. Remove the tap. Spray brake cleaner in the hole. Push a wire brush in the hole. Pull it quickly from hole. Repeat the wire brush cleaning three to four times. Blow compressed air in the hole to remove remaining debris. Clean each threaded engine block hole as described.

3

Apply red threadlocking sealant on the larger coarse threads of the head studs.

4

Align the sealant coated threads of each head stud with a threaded engine block hole. Turn each bolt clockwise with the correctly sized wrench until the stud tightens in the hole and the bottom of the stud hex nut sits tight to the top of the engine block.

The Grand Cherokee is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the Jeep division of Chrysler. The WJ versions of this vehicle include the 1999 to 2004 models and represent a complete redesign over the previous Grand Cherokee. The most common engine in the 2001 Grand Cherokee is a 6-cylinder, 4.0-liter engine. The replacement of the water pump on this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the water pump.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.

6

Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

You can reset the computer on your Honda Element right from your home garage, saving yourself a trip to the mechanic. The Honda Element is equipped with an onboard diagnostics (OBD) computer, which receives and stores trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When it receives one of these codes, it alerts you by illuminating a warning or service light on the instrument panel. Once you have had the problem looked at and fixed, you or your mechanic will need to reset the computer in order to shut off the lights and keep your vehicles computer functioning properly.

Instructions

1

Find a port under the dashboard on the drivers side of the vehicle that is the same size and shape as the connector on the OBD code scanner. Plug the scanner into the port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position but dont start the engine. The vehicles power turns on the scanner. Let the scanner read the trouble codes.

3

Press the "reset" or similar command on the face of the scanner to reset the vehicles computer. Unplug the scanner and shut off the vehicle.

4

Wait 60 seconds then start the engine. Verify that the warning and service lights have shut off on the vehicles instrument panel.

The wheel sensor system on a 1998 Subaru Legacy is directly controlled and monitored by the anti-lock braking system, or ABS, computer. It order to determine which wheels are locking-up, the ABS computer monitors the speed of each wheel individually and compares that speed to the vehicle speed sensor value and the other front wheel. In the event of a wheel lock-up, the ABS computer selectively limits brake pressure until the wheels return to a normal rolling condition. Replacement wheel speed sensors are available for purchase from auto parts stores, Subaru dealerships, and online parts websites.

Instructions

Front Sensor Removal

1

Break the lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tire.

2

Locate the wheel speed sensor on the inside of the steering knuckle. It is made from black plastic and has a single wire protruding from it that runs up the inside of the strut assembly. Disconnect the sensor connector inside the engine compartment.

3

Remove the bolts holding the sensor harness to the strut assembly with a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the bolts holding the wheel sensor to the knuckle housing with a ratchet and metric socket.

4

Remove the sensor from the housing by gripping the sensor between your thumb and foinger and slowly twisting it back and forth while pulling out of its mounting hole.

Front Sensor Installation

5

Slide the new sensor into its mounting hole on the steering knuckle flange. Insert a feeler gauge between the sensor reluctor wheel and the sensor hole. Press the sensor down into its mounting hole and set the clearance using the feeler gauge. The specified value is 0.9 to 1.4 mm.

6

Install the sensor retaining bolt and tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench.

7

Feed the sensors wire up to the engine compartment and reconnect it to its primary electrical connector. Position the sensor wire bracket on the strut assembly and reinstall the bracket retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds.

8

Check to make sure that the sensor wire isnt distorted or strangled. Test drive the vehicle to make sure that the sensor operates properly and that no ABS error lights illuminate on the dash board.

Rear Sensor Removal

9

Break the rear lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tires. Remove the bolts holding the front seat cushion hinges to the body with a socket and metric ratchet. Lift up the front edge of the seat cushion and detach the rear hooks from back of the seat. Remove the lower seat cushion from the vehicle.

10

Remove the bolts holding the lower-edge of the back cushion to the body. Pull the release strap to release the folding lock on the top of the back cushion. Fold the cushion down toward the body and disengage its retaining hooks. Remove the back cushion from the vehicle. Disconnect the ABS connector thats beneath the rear seat and push the wire through the rubber grommet hole in the body.

11

Slide underneath the rear of the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and remove the bolt holding the rear ABS sensor to the backing plate behind the wheel hub. Remove the bolt holding the sensor wire to the trailing link. Pull the sensor out of the backing plate and remove the sensor assembly from the vehicle.

Rear Sensor Installation

12

Set the sensor wire into position on the trailing link and reinstall the trailing link bolt. Tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the ABS sensor into the backing plate and set the gap between the backing plate and the sensor with a feeler gauge; the specified value is 0.7 to 1.2 mm. Tighten the sensors retaining bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

13

Feed the ABS wire through the rubber grommet and into the cabin, then reconnect the ABS sensors electrical connector inside the vehicle. Set the seat back cushion into position and attach the lower seat cushion hooks to the mounting holes. Fold the seat back cushion up until it latches into position, then reinstall the seat back cushion retaining bolts.

14

Set the lower seat cushion into position and engage the rear latches with the retaining hooks on the back of the seat. Fold the seat down and reinstall the seats retaining bolts. Reinstall the tires and torque the lug nuts to lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle back to the ground, then test drive it to ensure that the sensors operate properly.

Welding is a skill that some people take years to perfect, and it can be done in a multitude of different ways. One of the most common and inexpensive methods of welding is MIG welding, which will work perfectly for an exhaust system. Welding two exhaust pipes together will seal the joint and make the exhaust system leak-free. This is a complicated process and should be done by someone with experience in welding; otherwise, you risk injury.

Instructions

1

Jack up the car using a jack and put it on four jack stands. Make sure there is enough room for you to move easily around the underside of the car. Crawl underneath the car and locate the section of exhaust tubing you want to weld. Examine the wall thickness of the tubing.

2

Compare the wall thickness of the tubing with the system setup diagram on the inside cover of the welder. Set your welder to the settings listed for that gauge of metal. These settings will vary with each welder.

3

Clamp the exhaust lines together using the exhaust clamp, making sure to butt the two pieces of exhaust tubing together perfectly. Put on the welding helmet and gloves.

4

Set the ground clamp for the welder on the exhaust. Place the end of the welder approximately 1/8 inch away from the surface of the exhaust. Pull the trigger. Work the puddle you see through the helmet into crescent shapes, working your way back and forth until you have a 1 inch long weld. Repeat the process on the other side of the exhaust clamp.

5

Remove the exhaust clamp then weld the remaining perimeter of the exhaust tubing. Remove the vehicle from the jack stands using the jack.

The fuel filter on a 1985 Buick Century is designed so that gasoline flowing to the engine is free of harmful debris. The fuel pump, located inside the gas tank, has a built-in strainer. This keeps large debris from leaving the tank but smaller debris and sediment can get past the strainer. If not changed, the small debris will eventually clog the fuel filter; this can affect gas mileage and engine performance. Fuel filters should be changed annually or every 30,000 miles.

Instructions

Remove the Fuel Filter

1

Open the hood and locate the fuse panel. Open the fuse panel and locate the fuel pump relay. Pull it out by hand.

2

Start the engine and let it run. The engine will stall once the fuel system has depressurized. Turn off the engine and replace the relay back in to the fuse panel. Close the fuel panel.

3

Crawl under the car behind the driver-side rear wheel well and look for the fuel filter. The fuel filter is canister-shaped with a fuel line entering and exiting the filter; it will be in a mounting bracket on the frame rail. You can also trace the fuel line from the gas tank to find the fuel filter.

4

Place a drain pan under the fuel filter to catch any gas in the fuel lines or the fuel filter.

5

Disconnect the inlet fuel line from the fuel filter by pinching the tab on the quick-disconnect fitting and pull the fuel line off the fuel filter. If the fuel line is held on by a hose clamp, loosen the clamp with a screwdriver. Remove the outlet fuel line the same way.

6

Use a socket wrench to loosen the bolt on the mounting bracket and slide the fuel filter out of the bracket. Discard the fuel filter.

Install the Fuel Filter

7

Slide the new filter in the bracket. Make sure the arrow on the fuel filter is pointing toward the front of the car. The arrow designates the direction of fuel flow. Tighten the bracket bolt with the socket wrench. The fuel filter should be tight in the bracket.

8

Push the inlet fuel line onto the fuel filter until it clicks in place. If held on by hose clamps, push the fuel line over the fitting on the fuel filter. Slide the hose clamp over the hose and fitting and tighten it with a screw driver. Do the same for the outlet fuel line.

9

Start the engine and let it to run for at least 5 minutes.

10

Check the fuel filter and fuel lines to make sure there are no gas leaks.

An automobile driveline connects the engine to the axles, giving them the power to turn and move the vehicle. It connects the engine to these parts via a number of joints and clamps. When these parts are faulty, the car might shudder when you give it gas, or it might clunk loudly when the transmission is downshifted. The noise, as well as leakage at the joints, are signs that you need a repair. Most home mechanics can handle minor repairs, which involve replacing rubber boots and adding grease. But for major repairs, its best to take the vehicle to a licensed automotive mechanic. If you are doing the work yourself you will need access to a hydraulic car lift.

Instructions

1

Drive the car into a workspace with a hydraulic lift. Attach the lifts wheel or frame locks onto the car. Initiate the lift so that the car is suspended. Place the lift safety blocks into position to secure the lift arms in place. This will ensure the the car wont crush you if the hydraulic pressure begins to fail.

2

Locate the CV joint boots at the end of the driveline. Examine them for tears or leakage of grease and oil. If you find tears or leaks, pull the old rubber boot off the linkage because it needs to be replaced. Examine the CV link of the driveline to the axle and the opposite end at the transmission. Use a flashlight if visibility is poor. Look for corrosion or rust if the CV boot was torn, opened or exposed.

3

Regrease the CV joint and insert a new CV boot onto the driveline axle and transmission connections if the joints are in good working condition and the rubber boot was bad. If the boot is still good and shows no signs of tears or leaks, slip it back onto the joint.

4

Lower the car and bring it to a licensed mechanic if you can see clear signs of corrosion to the CV and transmission joints of the driveline. Have the mechanic lift the car with his equipment. Show him what youve observed and where the corrosion is. Have the mechanic replace the driveline and joint couplings as necessary.

One thing to remember when picking a flexplate for a small block Chevy (SBC) is that the 1986 and newer Chevy small block engines require a weighted flexplate to help keep the vibration out of the engine. If you bolt an old style neutral balanced flexplate to an engine when it requires a weighted flexplate, you will feel considerable vibration from the engine. The weighted flexplate has 14 1/2-inch diameter and 168 teeth, and requires an offset bolt pattern starter. The smaller flexplate has a 12 3/4-inch diameter and uses a starter with the two bolts adjacent to each other.

Instructions

1

Determine the flexplate needed. Count the teeth on the flexplate to be replaced. If it has 168 teeth it is the larger one. The other choice is a 153-tooth plate. If you dont have a flywheel on the engine and the engine is 1986 or newer, it needs the larger-weighted flexplate.

2

Select the flexplate manufacturer. If the vehicle is expected to last a long time, then use a high quality GM replacement flexplate. The GM original equipment flexplate is more expensive. If the vehicle has a low life expectancy, then the purchase of a used or aftermarket flexplate should suffice.

3

Inspect and clean any used flexplate with spray brake cleaner before purchasing it. Check for hair line cracks in and around the crank bolt holes and be sure the teeth are clean and not worn.

4

Match up the flexplate with the proper starter. The 168-tooth flexplate uses a starter that has bolt holes in the mount that are offset or staggered. The smaller plate uses a starter with mount holes that are adjacent to each other

Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.

2

Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.

3

Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

4

Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.

5

Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.

6

Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.

7

Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.

8

Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.

9

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

10

Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.

11

Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.

12

Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.

13

Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.

14

Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.

You can reset the airbag light on your 1995 Nissan Sentra without the aid of any special tools. The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) light will illuminate on the instrument panel when there is a malfunction with the airbag assembly. When this light turns on, have the vehicle towed to a mechanic rather than risk driving it. Theres always the chance the airbag will accidentally deploy while you are driving it. When the problem has been repaired, shut off the SRS light yourself.

Instructions

1

Look for and open the fuse panel cover. You can find it underneath the steering column. Pull down on it from the top using your fingers.

2

Find the yellow plug. This is the electrical connector for the airbag system. Pull this plug out of the panel.

3

Wait 10 minutes, then secure the yellow plug back in place. Put the fuse panel cover back on.

4

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Look at the instrument panel to verify that the SRS light has turned off.

The airbag warning light in a Ford Mondeo may illuminate when the airbag is malfunctioning. After you have had the airbag assembly looked at by a mechanic and fixed, you need to reset the airbag or SRS warning light on your Mondeo. You need to purchas a diagnostic reset tool from your dealership or any auto parts store to do this job.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel which can be found underneath the steering column on the dashboard. Pull down on it from the top with your fingers.

2

Plug the connector end of the diagnostic reset tool into the pinned receiver port on the fuse panel.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Wait for the diagnostic reset tool to stop blinking. This means the SRS light has been reset.

4

Unplug the diagnostic reset tool and turn off the vehicle.

5

Turn the engine on and verify that the SRS light has shut off of the instrument panel.

If your vehicle gets old enough, chances are your windshield will get chipped or cracked. Replacing an entire windshield can be costly and is not environmentally friendly. In many cases windshields dont need to be replaced, particularly if the damage is minor. Most small chips and cracks can be easily repaired. You can do the job yourself in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Prepare the windshield by thoroughly cleaning the cracked area. Before you begin the repair process, make sure the windshield is clean, free of debris, and completely dry.

2

Take a razor blade and scrape off any excess glass particles that might be trapped in the crack itself, as well as any dried sap, bug carcasses, or other debris.

3

Clean the windshield thoroughly with soap and water, and let dry. Once completely dry, apply the glass cleaner solution.Solutions come in a variety of types, including chemical-based and eco-friendly.

4

Follow the directions on the auto glass repair kit, making sure you follow the exact steps. The synthetic glass resin used in these kits can be volatile if not applied correctly.

5

Apply the syringe of liquid glass compound to the inside of the crack, snapping and pulling the syringe across the length of the crack slowly. Use your clock or watch to precisely time these motions so the resin will fill in the crack without allowing any trapped air bubbles.

6

Fill in the entire crack from end to end with the resin, then let it sit under direct sunlight or ultraviolet lamp. The UV rays will chemically alter the resin from a liquid to a solid state.

7

Let the resin set for several hours to allow the curing process to finish. Once finished, use your razor blade to scrape any excess resin from the windshield.