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BMW based its 7 series of cars, made from 1994 to 2001, on its E38 platform. The 740I --- the most popular vehicle in the series --- featured an eight-cylinder, 4.4-liter engine. All of the engines in this series use fuel injection, which requires a fuel injector to deliver fuel to the engines at high pressure. The fuel injectors for the E38 incidents are part of the fuel rail assembly on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the front of the fuel rail.

2

Attach a pair of locking pliers to the adjustment screws on the hose clamps for the fuel return line on the fuel rail. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen the clamps and disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail. Remove the flare nut on the fuel line with a 12-millimeter socket and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.

3

Spray compressed air around the base of the fuel injectors to keep debris out of the injector ports. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a 10-millimeter socket.

4

Pad the corner of the valve cover with a clean shop towel and pry the fuel rail with a small pry tool to lift the injectors out of the manifold. Push the fuel lines to the side and remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

5

Pull the fuel injectors from the fuel rail assembly and connect the new fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail assembly to the engine and fasten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail.

6

Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail with the flare nut. Connect the fuel return line to the fuel rail by attaching the hose clamps and fasten the retaining screws on the clamps.

7

Connect the vacuum hose to the front of the fuel rail and attach the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors. Replace the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench.

The Grand Cherokee is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the Jeep division of Chrysler. The WJ versions of this vehicle include the 1999 to 2004 models and represent a complete redesign over the previous Grand Cherokee. The most common engine in the 2001 Grand Cherokee is a 6-cylinder, 4.0-liter engine. The replacement of the water pump on this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the water pump.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.

6

Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

International surely had no way of knowing just how important their new 6.9 liter diesel would become when they introduced it in 1978. While the 6.9 liters 170 horsepower and 338 foot-pounds of torque arent particularly impressive by todays standards, the fact is this engine laid the foundation for a partnership between International and Ford that would eventually culminate in the well-known Powerstroke series.

Starting Fluid

Starting fluid is a mixture of various volatile hydrocarbons, primarily diethyl ether and heptane, butane and propane. Starting fluid has a much lower auto-ignition temperature than gas or diesel, making it an ideal fuel to start engines with ailing ignition or fuel-injection systems. The 6.9 liter diesel is a simple engine, and responds to starting fluid the same way that any other diesel does. A three to five second burst of starting fluid sprayed directly into the intake tube should be all you need if the engine is capable of starting at all.

The Addiction Myth

Some old-timers will tell you that starting fluid is a death sentence for any engine, especially diesels. According to the wisdom of ages, diesel engines get "addicted" to starting fluid and will forever more require it after the first application. This is patently untrue; starting fluid is a fuel just like any other and your engines physical structure in no way changes just because you start it with ether. More likely, this "addiction" is simply a worsening of whatever condition it was that forced you to use starting fluid in the first place.

The airbag warning light in a Ford Mondeo may illuminate when the airbag is malfunctioning. After you have had the airbag assembly looked at by a mechanic and fixed, you need to reset the airbag or SRS warning light on your Mondeo. You need to purchas a diagnostic reset tool from your dealership or any auto parts store to do this job.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel which can be found underneath the steering column on the dashboard. Pull down on it from the top with your fingers.

2

Plug the connector end of the diagnostic reset tool into the pinned receiver port on the fuse panel.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Wait for the diagnostic reset tool to stop blinking. This means the SRS light has been reset.

4

Unplug the diagnostic reset tool and turn off the vehicle.

5

Turn the engine on and verify that the SRS light has shut off of the instrument panel.

If your vehicle gets old enough, chances are your windshield will get chipped or cracked. Replacing an entire windshield can be costly and is not environmentally friendly. In many cases windshields dont need to be replaced, particularly if the damage is minor. Most small chips and cracks can be easily repaired. You can do the job yourself in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Prepare the windshield by thoroughly cleaning the cracked area. Before you begin the repair process, make sure the windshield is clean, free of debris, and completely dry.

2

Take a razor blade and scrape off any excess glass particles that might be trapped in the crack itself, as well as any dried sap, bug carcasses, or other debris.

3

Clean the windshield thoroughly with soap and water, and let dry. Once completely dry, apply the glass cleaner solution.Solutions come in a variety of types, including chemical-based and eco-friendly.

4

Follow the directions on the auto glass repair kit, making sure you follow the exact steps. The synthetic glass resin used in these kits can be volatile if not applied correctly.

5

Apply the syringe of liquid glass compound to the inside of the crack, snapping and pulling the syringe across the length of the crack slowly. Use your clock or watch to precisely time these motions so the resin will fill in the crack without allowing any trapped air bubbles.

6

Fill in the entire crack from end to end with the resin, then let it sit under direct sunlight or ultraviolet lamp. The UV rays will chemically alter the resin from a liquid to a solid state.

7

Let the resin set for several hours to allow the curing process to finish. Once finished, use your razor blade to scrape any excess resin from the windshield.

Starting in the late 1970s, vehicles were equipped with on-board computers that were specific to each vehicle. This often meant a trip to the dealership service center for diagnosis and computer resets. The 1992 GMC Jimmy was no exception. A GM-specific computer scan tool must be used to read and clear codes as well as reset the computer. In 1996, the second phase of on-board diagnostics standardized the equipment needed to perform this task so most all repair stations could do this for every type of later model vehicle.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your 1992 GMC Jimmy.

2

Remove the black, negative battery terminal bolt from the batterys side post with an 8 mm box-end wrench turned counterclockwise.

3

Detach the red, positive battery terminal bolt from the batterys side post with the wrench.

4

Turn on the headlight switch inside the passenger cab to discharge any stored voltage in the capacitor. Wait five to 10 minutes.

5

Reconnect the red, positive battery terminal bolt to the batterys side post first and tighten it with the wrench.

6

Reattach the black, negative battery terminal bolt to the batterys side post and tighten it with the wrench.

The 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe is equipped with two oxygen (O2) sensors within the exhaust system. Designed to control the fuel consumption based on the oxygen in your cars exhaust, the oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter of your Santa Fe. When the cars fuel economy begins to decrease significantly, you may need to replace the oxygen sensors. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer and change them at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Raise the Santa Fe with a jack and support it on a set of jack stands. Locate the oxygen (O2) sensors along the exhaust system.

2

Pull the electrical connection from the top of the oxygen sensor. Remove the existing sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

3

Thread the new oxygen sensor into place by hand to avoid the risk of cross threading and damaging the sensor. Torque the sensor to 40 pound-feet with your torque wrench. Push the electrical connector back into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the second sensor, if needed. Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

The engine timing in your 1997 Ford Ranger has a profound effect on the trucks overall ride quality. When the timing is off, the engine might shake, sputter and rattle, causing a decrease in power and comfort. This can also cause your engine to burn fuel inefficiently, leading to poor fuel economy and harmful pollution. To remedy the problem, reset the timing on your engine back to the correct factory specifications.

Instructions

1

Turn on the Ranger and let it run for 10 minutes, then turn it off.

2

Open the hood and locate the timing wires in the engine bay. These wires will be in a small, gray wiring harness located next to the distributor cap.

3

Pull the insert out of the harness to disconnect the engine timing.

4

Connect the black timing light cable to the Rangers negative battery terminal and the red timing light cable to the Rangers positive battery terminal.

5

Connect the third timing light cable to the spark plug one cable. In the Ranger this is the cable at the front of engine block, the furthest to the left (passengers side).

6

Turn the engine back on while pointing the light at the timing cover.

7

Loosen the bolt on the distributor cap using a socket wrench and a 13mm socket.

8

Turn the distributor cap slowly until the markings on the timing cover light up.

9

Tighten the bolt on the distributor cap, then turn off the engine and remove the timing light.

10

Reconnect the timing connector.

Rust is created when bare metal is exposed to both oxygen and water. This creates iron oxide, better known as rust. Rust eats away at the surrounding metal, which can cause connection problems and over time makes the vehicle less structurally secure as the rust penetrates the vehicles steel crumple zones. Immediate action is required as soon as the rust appears to stop it from spreading throughout the entire car body.

Instructions

1

Remove any loose rust from the car with the wire brush. Keep using the wire brush until the bare metal underneath the rust shows through.

2

Mix the fiberglass paste included in the repair kit with the correct amount of hardener. Use a putty knife to apply the mixed paste behind the rust holes. Be sure to press the paste securely into the rust damage.

3

Wait for the paste to harden, then use the sandpaper to sand off any excess paste or rust debris.

4

Mix together the body filler and hardener, then spread over the rust-damaged area. Wait for the filler to harden, then use sandpaper to sand the area smooth.

5

Use a solvent wipe to remove any dust or grease from the area. Shake the primer can to mix the paint, then apply the first coat of primer over the damaged area.

6

Wait for the primer to dry, then sand the area. Apply a second coat of primer and wait for it to dry. Then sand again. Repeat this process until the primer surface is even with the rest of the cars paint.

7

Spray a few thin coats of the topcoat paint over the primer area. Wait for the topcoat to dry, then polish it with a polishing compound to blend the paint into the rest of the cars paint.

The Geo Metro, like most other passenger cars, uses a 12-volt power system to supply the cars electrical needs. Unfortunately, the cars spark plugs require much higher voltage to create the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture. The ignition coil provides this increased voltage by converting the 12 volts supplied by the electrical system into a charge of up to 30,000 volts. Quite often, when a car uses to run or runs badly, the fault lies with the ignition coil.

Instructions

1

Locate the ignition coil, connected to the cars firewall. It is a cylindrical object with a thick wire connected to it.

2

Remove the plastic cap that protects the coil.

3

Use a voltmeter to test the coils positive terminal. Set the voltmeter to 12-volt direct current (DC), and touch the positive probe to the positive terminal on the coil. The terminals are bolts on one end of the coil, and the positive terminal will be marked with "+." The voltmeter should read 12 volts. If not, proceed to Step 4.

4

Check to ensure that the ignition coil electrical connector is firmly in place. Check the under-hood fuse panel to ensure the coil fuse/relay has not gone bad. Blown fuses of this type appear burned. Recheck the coil with the voltmeter. If it still detects no power, the problem lies at a location other than the coil.

5

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to cut off power to the coil.

6

Disconnect the high-tension cable from the coil. This is the thick wire that attaches to the center of the coil using a connector similar to a spark plug boot. Grasp the boot, and pull it straight off the coil as you twist it.

7

Use a 1/4-inch drive socket or a small box end wrench to disconnect the negative and positive terminal wires from the coil.

8

Remove the coil from the firewall by removing the two bolts that attach the mounting bracket.

9

Set the voltmeter to test resistance (ohms), and touch the probes to the positive and negative terminals. The voltmeter should read between 1.35 and 1.65 ohms for standard-emission models, and between 1.08 and 1.32 ohms for cars with upgraded (California) emissions. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

10

Check the resistance between the positive terminal and the high-tension terminal just as you did in Step 9. This resistance should lie between 22.1 and 22.9 kilohms for all models. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

The 1992 Buick Century is a mid-sized sedan. The 1992 Century was produced in two-door, four-door, and station wagon versions. The primary engine offered in the 1992 Century was a 2.5-liter four-cylinder, but a 3.3-liter V-6 was an option for all models. Lifting the 1992 Century and setting the jack stands requires attention to detail. If the jack stands are not set correctly, working on or around the car will be unsafe.

Instructions

Front

1

Park the car on a level surface. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the Century. Use a tire iron to loosen the front wheel lug nuts a half turn if you are working on the brakes, steering, or suspension components. It is difficult to loosen lug nuts once the vehicle is on the jack stands.

2

Insert a floor jack underneath the front of the Century. Locate the frame rail that is parallel to the side of the engine. Make sure there is no severe rust or holes in the frame rail. If there is a large amount of rust or the frame rail has holes, move to the third section of this project for alternate instructions. If there is little to no rust place your jack beneath one of the frame rails.

3

Raise the car upward by the frame rail. Place your jack stand just rearward of the jack, underneath the front frame rail. The jack stand should be set where the lower control arm meets the frame rail. The lower control arm is a metal part that extends from the frame rail out toward the wheels. Lower the jack to let the car set on the jack stand.

4

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to place the jack stand underneath the other front side of the Century.

Rear

5

Park the car on a level surface. Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts if you are planning on working on the brakes, suspension, or steering components.

6

Inspect the rear axle beam, which is the metal beam that extends between both rear wheels. If the rear axle beam is severely rusted or bent, proceed to the third section of this project for alternate instructions. If little or no rust is present, place your jack beneath the rear axle beam, just inward from the tire.

7

Raise the rear of the Century with the jack. If you are planing on getting beneath the car, you will need to raise the jack near-to its limit height. Place your jack stand just inward from the jack, underneath the axle beam. This will leave you room to access the area inward from the rear wheel if needed. Lower the jack to set the car onto the jack stand.

8

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to set the jack stand beneath the other rear side of the Buick if needed.

If the Car is Rusted Severely

9

Loosen the front or rear lug nuts, if you are planning to work on the brakes, suspension, or steering components. Use a tire iron to loosen the nuts.

10

Locate the side chassis rails. The chassis rails run parallel to the sides of the car, and are located just inside the body pinch rails. Place your jack about 1 foot rearward from the front wheel well if you are working on the front of the car, underneath the chassis rail. If you are working on the back of the car place your jack beneath the chassis rail, about 1 foot forward of the rear wheel well.

11

Raise the Century with the jack underneath the chassis rail. Place your jack stand beneath the chassis rail, directly next to the jack. If you are working on the front of the car, the jack stands goes to the front of the jack. If you are working on the rear of the car, the jack stand goes to the rear of the jack. Lower the jack to set the Century down onto the jack stands.

12

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 if you need to raise the second side of the vehicle.

Head gasket failures can be caused by high mileage or simply an aging vehicle, but are often due to an overheated engine. Additional repairs may be needed after the inspection.

Vehicle Year

The cost of having your head gasket replaced on your 2.5L Dodge Dakota will be about the same whether your vehicle was one of the first 2.5L Dakotas (e.g., before 1990) or one of the last 2.5L Dakotas (around 2002, for example).

Parts

The parts needed to replace the head gasket may include coolant, engine oil, a gasket sealer, a head gasket set, an oil drain plug gasket and an oil filter. The cost of these parts in 2010, according to RepairPal, can range from $320 to $450.

Labor

The labor costs will probably total between $445 and $570 (as of 2010) depending on location.

Total Cost

The total cost of labor and parts to replace a head gasket on a 2.5L four-cylinder Dodge Dakota will probably be between $767 and $1,016. Additional repairs may be required and add to the overall cost of repairing the vehicle.

All welds are visually inspected to determine whether they have been adequately placed and have the necessary strength to hold steel together. While it is technically possible to perform weld inspection with specialized diagnostic equipment, this is generally not necessary in anything but a welding certification testing situation. Basic welding allows for quick inspections so that work can either progress or be redone in a quick and efficient manner.

Instructions

1

Look at the back of any type of weld after it has cooled, but before the part is cleaned. You should see discoloration on the back of the steel that has been welded that ranges in color from dark blue to nearly brown. If this area is uniformly smooth and colored, the weld penetration, or how deeply the weld penetrated the steel, was successful. If there is a hole in the metal, this is called weld burn-through, and is a weld failure. On the other hand, the appearance of small bumps within the colored region are called weld melt-through. These are acceptable in most welding situations.

2

Inspect the weld fillet in steel welded at angles to each other. This is the actual deposited weld filler that builds up during the welding process. It should be uniform and attractive, with edges smoothed into the surrounding metal rather than clumped up on top of one another. In addition to this, the fillet should not exhibit any signs of cavities in the filler metal. This is indicative of poor weld quality, and the part should be remade.

3

Measure spot welds with a metal ruler to determine their strength. The spot weld should be no greater than 3/8 inch in diameter, and no more than 1/32 inch high. The back of the spot weld should exhibit a round blue coloration and a tiny dimple in the exact center of the weld. Evidence of holes in the steel indicate a poor quality weld.

4

Inspect butt welds to make certain that they exhibit the proper coloration on the back of the welded steel. If they have the right coloration, inspect the weld itself. The weld should not exceed 3/16 inch in width, and should be no higher than 1/16 inch above the steel being welded. In addition, the weld should completely cover any gap between the two pieces of steel being welded. A hole or a gap indicates a poor quality weld, and the part should be remade.

The Mazda 626 is a series of cars manufactured by Mazda for the export market from 1979 to 2002. The 1991 Mazda 626 was a mid-size car, and the LX designator indicates a trim level in the United Kingdom. The engine for the 1991 Mazda 626 uses fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to deliver pressurized fuel. The fuel pump for this vehicle is accessible from the rear passenger compartment.

Instructions

1

Start the engine, and remove the relay connector under the left side of the instrument panel. Allow the engine to stall, and turn the ignition switch off. Connect the relay connector.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Press the clip on each end of the rear seat to release the cushion, and remove the rear seat cushion. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly. Remove the screws on the access cover for the fuel pump assembly, and open the access cover.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly, and remove the mounting screws on the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench. Discard the old gasket for the fuel pump assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and remove the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit. Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel pump.

4

Attach the fuel sending unit to the new fuel pump, and fasten the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and place a new gasket on the fuel tank. Install the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank, and fasten the mounting screws for the fuel pump assembly. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly.

5

Replace the access cover, and fasten the mounting screws for the access cover with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly, and replace the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal, and start the engine. Check the fuel system for leaks.

The Toyota Avalon is a full-size luxury car produced in the United States since 1994. The outside mirrors on the Avalon are fairly easy to remove from the vehicle, and most of the work deals with exposing the cables and electrical connectors for the mirrors. In order to do that you need to remove a number of panels from the interior of the vehicle. The procedure is the same for both of the outside mirrors.

Instructions

1

Detach the two clips and three claws from the armrest with a screwdriver, and remove the armrest from the vehicle. Detach the clip and five claws from the upper armrest panel, leaving the master switch for the power window still attached.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector and the three retaining screws for the power window master switch with a socket wrench, and remove the master switch for the power window from the upper armrest panel. Detach the seven claws from the lower armrest panel, and remove the lower armrest panel with the door lock switch still attached.

3

Detach the electrical connector for door lock switch, and detach the two claws on the door lock switch with a screwdriver. Remove the door lock switch from the lower armrest panel.

4

Place a clip remover in front of the door handle between the door trim and the mounting plate for the door handle. Hold the clip remover in place and turn the handle to remove it from the door panel. Detach the clip and claw from the garnish, and remove the garnish from the door panel.

5

Remove the three retaining screws and eight clips from the door panel with a screwdriver. Pull the door panel upward, and detach the door handle from the door with a screwdriver. Push the door handle forward, then away from the door to release the claw on the door handle. Remove the door handle from the door with the cables still attached.

6

Disconnect both cables from the inside handle and remove the service hole cover from the front door. Detach the electrical connector from the outer mirror, unfasten the three retaining nuts from the outer mirror with a screwdriver and remove the mirror from the vehicle.

7

Install the new mirror, and secure the retaining nuts with a screwdriver. Attach the electrical connector to the mirror and replace the service hole cover on the front door. Connect the cables to the inside door handle.

8

Mount the inside door handle to the door, and replace the door panel. Attach the garnish for the door handle, and fasten the door handle to the door. Install the door lock switch to the lower armrest panel, and install the lower armrest panel to the vehicle. Install the master switch to the upper armrest panel, and install the upper armrest panel to the vehicle.

The installation of aftermarket fog lights on your 2003 Honda Civic SI is a simple task that you can accomplish in your driveway or garage. Whether youve been involved in a fender-bender that damaged the factory-installed lights or simply want to personalize your coupe, this relatively inexpensive task requires only household tools and less than an hour of your time.

Instructions

1

Park your 2003 Honda Civic SI on level ground and engage the parking brake. Always be safe when working on a car and double-check that the car is secure and that it has completely cooled.

2

Slide under the front end of the car to the back of the fog-light assembly. Unplug the wiring harness from the light socket. Remove the three mounting bolts on the fog-light assembly. Pull out the assembly.

3

Press the new assembly into place and secure it with the three mounting bolts. Be caul not to overtighten the bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light. Test the lights.

Unlike many other 2002 vehicles, the 2002 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am used sealed -beam headlights for both low and high beams. This is largely due to the muscle cars "flip-up" headlight doors. The benefit is that the headlights are easier to change than some. The low beam headlights on the Trans Am are located closest to the side fenders and the high beam headlights are located closest to the vehicles grill.

Instructions

1

Turn the headlight switch to the on position. When the headlight doors open, turn the headlight switch back one turn to the parking light position. Leave the switch in this position for the remainder of the procedure.

2

Remove the three trim panel screws (one on top and two on each side) that surround the dual headlights using the Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the trim panel and set it aside face up to avoid scratching it.

3

Remove the four screws (two on top and two on bottom) on the faulty headlight retaining bracket. Inspect the screws before attempting to remove them. The screws are located near each upper and lower corner of the bracket. Do not turn the screws at the top center above the headlight or on the center side of the headlight. These are headlight adjusting screws.

4

Pull the headlight out far enough to grasp the three-pronged plug connected to the back of the sealed beam headlight. Unplug the connection from the headlight.

5

Install the replacement headlight by plugging it into the three-pronged wire harness (making sure the words and numbers stamped on the outer headlight lens are in the upright position) and then place the headlight into its hole.

6

Replace the retaining bracket and screws to hold the headlight into place.

7

Test the headlight by turning the headlight switch back to the on position. Turn the headlight switch back to the parking light position.

8

Replace the trim panel and retaining screws.

The 1995 Chevrolet Corsica depends on an oxygen sensor within the exhaust system to monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. The oxygen content of the exhaust determines how much fuel the car uses to keep the engine running. If the sensor fails, your car may start to use a lot more fuel than needed. To save this needless fuel expense, buy a replacement sensor from an auto-parts store and change it at home. The location of the O2 sensor will vary, depending on the engine in your Corsica.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and allow it to warm up, heating up the exhaust system. Turn the engine off before removing the sensor. Raise the Corsica with a jack. Place a set of jack stands beneath the car to support it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor from beneath the car. The sensor threads into the rear of the manifold or the side of the exhaust pipe. Pull the wiring harness connector apart on the end of the sensor.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor from the Corsica with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Place the new sensor into the mounting area and thread it by hand until it no longer turns easily. Tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

4

Torque the sensor to 30 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Connect the wiring harness by pressing the connectors together.

5

Raise the car with a jack to remove the jack stands. Return the car to the ground.

The 3.3L Dodge engine is a front wheel drive V6 engine that was first introduced in 1990 for use in Dodge mini-vans and front wheel drive cars. The oxygen sensor on these vehicles is a small sensor located in the exhaust manifold. The oxygen sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. This measurement allows the engine computer to adjust the air fuel ratio for optimal efficiency.

Instructions

Removing the Oxygen Sensor

1

Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal by loosening the retaining bolt with a wrench. Pull the clamp off the terminal.

2

Raise the front of the vehicle using an automotive jack. Support with jack stands placed underneath the front frame.

3

Locate the oxygen sensor. It will be screwed into the intake manifold near the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the head pipe.

4

Separate the wiring connector on the oxygen sensor from the engine wiring harness, by pressing in both tabs with you hands. Then pull the two sides of the connector apart.

5

Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold using an oxygen sensor removal socket and breaker bar. The oxygen sensor socket features a slot along the side to facilitate removing the socket without damaging the wiring harness.

Installing the Oxygen Sensor

6

Screw the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold, using the oxygen sensor socket.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wiring connector onto the engine wiring harness connector using your hand.

8

Lower the vehicle.

9

Reconnect the ground cable to the negative battery terminal by sliding the clamp over the terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt using a wrench.

According to the websites Edmunds and Auto Recalls for Consumers, owners of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator have reported problems with the vehicles gearshift knob. These reports deal primarily with the cosmetics of this luxury SUV and nothing with the operation of the Navigators transmission. However, when the gearshift knob does break off or become loose, it can affect the way the operator shifts gears.

Gear Shift Knob Sticks Button

One of the main complaints about the gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator came from Edmunds. This report concerned the knob preventing the driver from pushing the shifting button to engage the gears. The report goes on to state that the driver had to remove the shift knob to engage the shift button and shift the gears. This problem centered on the seal that surrounds the button becoming loose or unglued, in turn preventing the driver from engaging the shift button. The only correction for this problem involved replacing the gearshift sealant or gasket surrounding the shift button.

Gear Shift Knob Loose

The gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator may come loose or come off the gearshift, according to reports from Edmunds. The manufacturer tightens the knob to a certain torque specification and places a lock-tight fluid on it to prevent it from coming loose or coming off. The knob may loosen or come off during normal driving conditions if the manufacturer has failed to torque it down or it has cracked during tightening. In this case, the dealer must replace or retighten the gearshift knob.

Transmission Control Indicator

The transmission control indicator on the dashboard of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator can remain illuminated even in the absence of a transmission problem, according to Edmunds, which attributes the problem to the gearshift control knob causing the shift button to stick and thus causing the warning indicator to remain illuminated. The seal on the gear shift knob can prevent the shift button from returning to the stop position after the driver presses it to engage the gears. In this case, the dealer must replace the seal and seat the gearshift knob correctly to prevent the shift button from sticking.