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Shift the vehicle into park or neutral. Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal. Inspect the existing ignition system wiring and other components for wear or damage. Replace any defective parts as required.

Locate the vehicle ignition coil. Remove the original 6 volt coil following the manufacturers instructions. Install a universal 12 volt coil in the original coils location on the vehicle. It may be necessary to replace the existing coil bracket in order to fit the new coil. Most universal coils come complete with mounting brackets as part of the kit. Install the new bracket following the coil manufacturers instructions. Do not connect the wire from the ignition switch to the coil at this time.

Locate a suitable mounting point near the coil for the single winding ballast resistor. The single ballast resistor is identified by having two prongs for electrical connection. Typically the ballast resistor is best mounted on the firewall of the vehicle. Use care when selecting a mounting location as the ballast resistor becomes hot during normal operation. Connect the wire from the ignition switch to one side of the ballast resistor. Cut a piece of 12 gauge wire to fit from the other terminal of the ballast resistor to the coil. Install spade or loop connectors on the wire ends as required. Attach one end of the wire to the ballast resistor and attach the other end to the ignition coil.

Locate the distributor and remove the distributor cap and rotor by following the vehicle manufacturers instructions. Locate the ignition condenser inside the distributor and remove it from the vehicle. Install a 12 volt condenser in the same location as the original unit. It is not necessary to change the ignition points or any other component as they are not voltage sensitive. Replace the distributor cap and rotor.

Inspect the ignition system and ensure all components are solidly connected and away from any moving parts of the vehicle. Connect the battery negative (-) cable. Start the vehicle and check for normal operation. If the vehicle fails to start, switch the wires around at the coil connections.

Locate the ignition coil, connected to the cars firewall. It is a cylindrical object with a thick wire connected to it.

Remove the plastic cap that protects the coil.

Use a voltmeter to test the coils positive terminal. Set the voltmeter to 12-volt direct current (DC), and touch the positive probe to the positive terminal on the coil. The terminals are bolts on one end of the coil, and the positive terminal will be marked with "+." The voltmeter should read 12 volts. If not, proceed to Step 4.

Check to ensure that the ignition coil electrical connector is firmly in place. Check the under-hood fuse panel to ensure the coil fuse/relay has not gone bad. Blown fuses of this type appear burned. Recheck the coil with the voltmeter. If it still detects no power, the problem lies at a location other than the coil.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to cut off power to the coil.

Disconnect the high-tension cable from the coil. This is the thick wire that attaches to the center of the coil using a connector similar to a spark plug boot. Grasp the boot, and pull it straight off the coil as you twist it.

Use a 1/4-inch drive socket or a small box end wrench to disconnect the negative and positive terminal wires from the coil.

Remove the coil from the firewall by removing the two bolts that attach the mounting bracket.

Set the voltmeter to test resistance (ohms), and touch the probes to the positive and negative terminals. The voltmeter should read between 1.35 and 1.65 ohms for standard-emission models, and between 1.08 and 1.32 ohms for cars with upgraded (California) emissions. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

Check the resistance between the positive terminal and the high-tension terminal just as you did in Step 9. This resistance should lie between 22.1 and 22.9 kilohms for all models. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.