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When it debuted in 1995, the Electra Glide, like it predecessors the Hydra Glide and Duo-Glide, was called a "Hog." The name was meant to be a frank evaluation of the motorcycle. In days of yore American bikers perred their Hogs "stripped," "chopped" or "bobbed." The mid-1990s Evolution powered Electra Glide retained many of the rider-friendly (though not mechanic-friendly) features of the 1965 Hog, so a simple job like changing the ignition must begin with some stripping. In this case, you first strip the fairing and then the ignition. Assuming that the old ignition is still in the bike, this process follows a few steps.

Instructions

1

Tape rags to the front fender to protect the finish. Remove the fairing screws outboard of the left and right speakers with a Torx head driver or socket.

2

Loosen the top left and right screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges and the screws below the right and left sides of the glove box with a Torx driver.

3

Remove the front and rear acorn nuts from both the right and left front turn signal lamp brackets with a Torx driver. Pull the front turn signal lamp assemblies from the motorcycle and allow them to hang at the front of the engine guard.

4

Remove the previously loosened screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges. Raise the outer fairing slightly and rest it on a folded rag. Squeeze the two external tabs to disconnect the headlamp jumper harness connector.

5

Remove the three outer fairing screws just below the outer face of the windshield with a Torx driver. Remove the two fairing screws just below the left and right wind deflectors with a Torx driver.

6

Turn the handlebars to the right and remove the outer fairing screw below the left side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Turn the handlebars to the left and remove the outer fairing screw below the below the right side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Lift the fairing and headlamp assembly off the motorcycle.

7

Insert the ignition switch key and turn to the "unlock" position. Rotate the knob to "access." Depress the release button at the bottom left side of the ignition with a small screwdriver. Push the key and turn it counterclockwise another 60 degrees. Lift and remove the knob.

8

Loosen the switch nut with an open end socket and socket wrench. Remove the nut from the threaded post. Remove the collar and spacer.

9

Remove the left and right inner fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Pull the switch position plate tabs from the slots in the inner fairing cap. Turn the handlebars all the way left and disconnect the fairing cap switch connector by pushing the button on the plug side of the connector to pull apart the pin and the socket halves of the connector.

10

Remove the fairing cap from the motorcycle by hand. Slide the ignition switch connector off the anchor on the bottom of the radio and pull the socket and pin halves of the connector apart. Remove the switch housing screws with a Torx driver and lift the switch housing from the upper fork bracket bore and remove the switch housing.

11

Slide the base of the replacement ignition switch into the bore of the upper fork bracket. Replace the screws and tighten to 50 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench.

12

Plug the ignition switch connector back together install that onto the anchor on the bottom of the radio. Plug the fairing cap switch connector back together and install that on the right side of the fairing cap.

13

Turn the handlebars all the way left and install the fairing cap over the ignition switch housing. Install the switch position plate fitting tabs in the slots of the fairing cap.

14

Reinstall the two fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Slide first the spacer and then the collar over the ignition switch housing post.

15

Replace the nut and tighten to 60 inch pounds of torque with an open end socket and torque wrench. Install the ignition switch knob with the red arrow pointing toward the "access" position. Turn the key clockwise to the "unlock" position then turn the key to "off."

16

Tighten the two fairing cap screws to 30 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench. Verify the operation of the ignition switch.

17

Reinstall the fairing and headlamp assembly. Remove the rags.

Converting an antique vehicle from the old 6 volt system to a modern 12 volt allows the use of more accessories and easier repairs. The ignition system is no different and having more voltage available gives the system more energy. This energy translates into a more efficient engine with more power that uses less fuel. After a 12 volt conversion has been done on an older vehicle, the ignition must be upgraded also. Converting the ignition to handle 12 volts is a very simple job that can be done in just a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Shift the vehicle into park or neutral. Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal. Inspect the existing ignition system wiring and other components for wear or damage. Replace any defective parts as required.

2

Locate the vehicle ignition coil. Remove the original 6 volt coil following the manufacturers instructions. Install a universal 12 volt coil in the original coils location on the vehicle. It may be necessary to replace the existing coil bracket in order to fit the new coil. Most universal coils come complete with mounting brackets as part of the kit. Install the new bracket following the coil manufacturers instructions. Do not connect the wire from the ignition switch to the coil at this time.

3

Locate a suitable mounting point near the coil for the single winding ballast resistor. The single ballast resistor is identified by having two prongs for electrical connection. Typically the ballast resistor is best mounted on the firewall of the vehicle. Use care when selecting a mounting location as the ballast resistor becomes hot during normal operation. Connect the wire from the ignition switch to one side of the ballast resistor. Cut a piece of 12 gauge wire to fit from the other terminal of the ballast resistor to the coil. Install spade or loop connectors on the wire ends as required. Attach one end of the wire to the ballast resistor and attach the other end to the ignition coil.

4

Locate the distributor and remove the distributor cap and rotor by following the vehicle manufacturers instructions. Locate the ignition condenser inside the distributor and remove it from the vehicle. Install a 12 volt condenser in the same location as the original unit. It is not necessary to change the ignition points or any other component as they are not voltage sensitive. Replace the distributor cap and rotor.

5

Inspect the ignition system and ensure all components are solidly connected and away from any moving parts of the vehicle. Connect the battery negative (-) cable. Start the vehicle and check for normal operation. If the vehicle fails to start, switch the wires around at the coil connections.

The Geo Metro, like most other passenger cars, uses a 12-volt power system to supply the cars electrical needs. Unfortunately, the cars spark plugs require much higher voltage to create the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture. The ignition coil provides this increased voltage by converting the 12 volts supplied by the electrical system into a charge of up to 30,000 volts. Quite often, when a car uses to run or runs badly, the fault lies with the ignition coil.

Instructions

1

Locate the ignition coil, connected to the cars firewall. It is a cylindrical object with a thick wire connected to it.

2

Remove the plastic cap that protects the coil.

3

Use a voltmeter to test the coils positive terminal. Set the voltmeter to 12-volt direct current (DC), and touch the positive probe to the positive terminal on the coil. The terminals are bolts on one end of the coil, and the positive terminal will be marked with "+." The voltmeter should read 12 volts. If not, proceed to Step 4.

4

Check to ensure that the ignition coil electrical connector is firmly in place. Check the under-hood fuse panel to ensure the coil fuse/relay has not gone bad. Blown fuses of this type appear burned. Recheck the coil with the voltmeter. If it still detects no power, the problem lies at a location other than the coil.

5

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to cut off power to the coil.

6

Disconnect the high-tension cable from the coil. This is the thick wire that attaches to the center of the coil using a connector similar to a spark plug boot. Grasp the boot, and pull it straight off the coil as you twist it.

7

Use a 1/4-inch drive socket or a small box end wrench to disconnect the negative and positive terminal wires from the coil.

8

Remove the coil from the firewall by removing the two bolts that attach the mounting bracket.

9

Set the voltmeter to test resistance (ohms), and touch the probes to the positive and negative terminals. The voltmeter should read between 1.35 and 1.65 ohms for standard-emission models, and between 1.08 and 1.32 ohms for cars with upgraded (California) emissions. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

10

Check the resistance between the positive terminal and the high-tension terminal just as you did in Step 9. This resistance should lie between 22.1 and 22.9 kilohms for all models. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

The Firebird was manufactured by the Pontiac division of General Motors from 1967 to 2002. The Formula trim level for the 1990 Firebird was available with an eight-cylinder engine with a displacement of 5.0 liters or 5.7 liters. The procedure for removing the ignition coil is generally the same for all eight-cylinder Firebirds made from 1982 to 1992. The ignition coil for these vehicles is located inside the distributor, which is in the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This reduces the possibility of electrocution while removing the ignition coil.

2

Release the wire retainer on the cover for the distributor cap and remove the cover. Detach the feed wire for the battery from the distributor cap.

3

Remove the electrical wiring for the ignition coil from the distributor cap. Disconnect the attaching screws for the cover of the ignition coil with a socket wrench and pull the ignition coil from the distributor cap.

4

Place the ignition coil and its electrical wiring into the distributor cap. Ensure that you position the resistor brush properly. Replace the cover for the ignition coil and fasten the attaching screws with a socket wrench.

5

Connect the electrical wiring for the ignition coil to the distributor cap. Attach the feed wire from the battery to the distributor cap.

6

Replace the cover for the distributor cap and attach the wire retainer to the cover. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

You can maximize the power and fuel efficiency of your 1980 Chevrolet Corvette by adjusting the ignition timing to the proper setting. The ignition timing determines when a spark will ignite in the Corvettes internal combustion engine. The ignition timing for the 1980 Chevrolet Corvette should be set to 12 degrees for automatic and manual transmission models, but the ignition timing is set at a different idle speed for each transmission. The 12-degree ignition timing is used on the 5.7-liter V-8 engine. Be careful not to interfere with other moving parts on the engine when you set the ignition timing.

Instructions

How to Set the Ignition Timing on a 1980 Chevrolet Corvette

1

Insert the key into the ignition of your Corvette and start the engine. Turn off all accessories, including the radio and air conditioning/heat.

2

Shift the transmission into "Neutral" and set the emergency brake. Bring the engine to an idle speed of 700 rpm if your car has an automatic transmission or 800 rpm if your car has a manual transmission.

3

Open the hood and connect the timing light and/or tachometer to the Corvettes battery, the No. 1 spark plug and the main crank pulley.

4

Observe where the timing mark on the pulley falls -- the correct timing is 12 degrees.

5

Loosen the distributor lockdown bolt with your wrench. The lockdown bolt is located by the base of the distributor housing.

6

Disconnect the vacuum hose that is connected to the distributor housing. There are numerous hoses connected to and around your engine but you should only remove the hose connected to the distributor. This will allow you to set the ignition timing.

7

Rotate the distributor with your hand until the timing mark drifts to 12 degrees.

8

Tighten the distributor lockdown bolt with your wrench once you have set the timing to 12 BTDC. Reconnect the vacuum hose you removed earlier from the distributor housing. Remove the timing light and/or tachometer.

Ignition timing is when the distributor sends an electric spark into the engine to ignite the fuel. This fuel ignition is what powers the car. The sequence in which this happens is very finely balanced, or "tuned," to provide maximum power and economy. When he timing is not set properly the car may experience hard starting, low power or bad gas mileage. Setting the timing is normally an easy task, but sometimes the manufacturers timing marks are missing or damaged. Setting the timing without any marks is not difficult with the right information and a few common tools.

Instructions

1

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and its a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the drivers side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicles specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

2

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

3

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

4

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

5

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

6

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

7

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

8

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

Having a key get stuck in the ignition switch of a car is not an uncommon problem. There are a few ways to try to correct the problem before having to head to a repair shop and what will most likely be a costly repair bill. Most fixes also make use of tools that are commonly owned or are easy to acquire.

Instructions

1

Wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while trying to pull out the key. Be gentle, otherwise the key could break off in the ignition. If this does not work, try the next option.

2

Jack up the front of the car until the wheels just leave the ground. This takes the weight off the front wheels and gives the steering column a little more room to move. Wiggle the steering wheel and try to pull the key out. If the key remains stuck, try the next idea while the car is jacked up.

3

Spray some Teflon dry lube into the ignition switch around the key. Just a couple of quick squirts will do the trick. Use the dental pick to actuate the pins in the ignition cylinder. This will hopefully lube the pins and lock enough so that the key can be wiggled out. If the key is still good and stuck, there are two last things to try before having to call a repair shop or locksmith. Lower the car back to the ground before moving on to the next idea.

4

Fill a zip-type sandwich bag half full with ice. If the cubes are large, crush them to make the bag easier to handle. Wrap the ice bag around the head of the key. The idea here is to get the metal of the key to contract because of the cold, so this may take up to fifteen minutes before it is effective. Try to wiggle the key out. If the key is still stuck, it is time to add heat.

5

Turn on a hair dryer and direct the air toward the ignition cylinder, while keeping the ice on the key itself. Heat will expand the cylinder, while the ice works on the key. Do this for fifteen minutes and try wiggling the key out.

The main circuit breaker is a known and reported issue on the previous years 2002 Road King. Weak batteries are also an issue with Road king electronics so if your battery is more than three years old, you should consider replacing it. And, some Road Kings manufactured early in the millennium have problems with wires that are routed too close to hot spots on the motorcycle. Hot wires are more resistant than cool wires. Troubleshoot your 2003 Harley Road King to try and track down the problems with the ignition light.

Instructions

1

Start the motorcycle in "Neutral." Turn it off and start at least three more times. If the motorcycle starts each time, the problem is not your starter relay.

2

Ride the motorcycle for 30 miles. If the ignition light flickers at any point in the ride and the bike stutters simultaneously, the problem may be your main circuit breaker.

3

Park the hot motorcycle and allow it to cool. Start the motorcycle again. If it is hard to start or the battery seems discharged your voltage regulator may be faulty.

4

Loosen the seat tab behind your seat with an Allen wrench and remove your seat to access your battery. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with an open end wrench.

5

Inspect the battery. Clean the terminals if necessary with a wire brush.

6

Grasp the right-side panel cover with both hands and pull off the cover. Locate the fuse block. Insert the blades of two, small, flathead screwdrivers on each side of the main fuse.

7

Pry out the main fuse and replace. Replace the negative battery terminal and seat. Do not replace the side cover.

8

Restart the motorcycle and determine if the ignition light problem persists. If the problem persists, you must extract the diagnostic codes from the electronic control module.

9

Turn the motorcycle off and ensure the bike is in "Neutral." Bridge terminals 1 and 2 in the data link connector in the fuse block with a jumper wire.

10

Turn the key to "Ignition" and wait until the "Check Engine" light begins to flash. Remove the jumper wire.

11

Extract the trouble codes. There are 108 trouble codes and they are sent as a series of flashes. There is a one-second pause between transmission of the first and second digit of the trouble code.

12

Translate the trouble code.