For U Solution

On Aug. 9, 2004, Nissan North America notified the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration that it would begin recalling certain 2004 Nissan Titans due to a transmission problem that could affect more than 5,000 vehicles.

Defect

Certain Nissan Titan pickups equipped with column shifters may have been equipped with a part that was damaged during assembly. A defective shift lever assembly could cause potentially dangerous transmission problems in these vehicles.

Risk

Damage to the shift lever assembly could result in a malfunction of the part responsible for holding the lever in the park position.

Solution

Nissan began notifying registered vehicle owners affected by the recall in September 2004. Authorized dealers were instructed to inspect and replace defective column shifters. Titan owners experiencing transmission problems may contact Nissan or the NHTSA with their vehicle identification numbers to determine whether their trucks might have been affected.

According to the websites Edmunds and Auto Recalls for Consumers, owners of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator have reported problems with the vehicles gearshift knob. These reports deal primarily with the cosmetics of this luxury SUV and nothing with the operation of the Navigators transmission. However, when the gearshift knob does break off or become loose, it can affect the way the operator shifts gears.

Gear Shift Knob Sticks Button

One of the main complaints about the gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator came from Edmunds. This report concerned the knob preventing the driver from pushing the shifting button to engage the gears. The report goes on to state that the driver had to remove the shift knob to engage the shift button and shift the gears. This problem centered on the seal that surrounds the button becoming loose or unglued, in turn preventing the driver from engaging the shift button. The only correction for this problem involved replacing the gearshift sealant or gasket surrounding the shift button.

Gear Shift Knob Loose

The gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator may come loose or come off the gearshift, according to reports from Edmunds. The manufacturer tightens the knob to a certain torque specification and places a lock-tight fluid on it to prevent it from coming loose or coming off. The knob may loosen or come off during normal driving conditions if the manufacturer has failed to torque it down or it has cracked during tightening. In this case, the dealer must replace or retighten the gearshift knob.

Transmission Control Indicator

The transmission control indicator on the dashboard of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator can remain illuminated even in the absence of a transmission problem, according to Edmunds, which attributes the problem to the gearshift control knob causing the shift button to stick and thus causing the warning indicator to remain illuminated. The seal on the gear shift knob can prevent the shift button from returning to the stop position after the driver presses it to engage the gears. In this case, the dealer must replace the seal and seat the gearshift knob correctly to prevent the shift button from sticking.

A cars air conditioner that isnt working properly, or isnt working at all, may be caused by a variety of problems, ranging from broken buttons on the console to loose hoses. Although most air conditioning problems need to be fixed by a mechanic, having an idea about what is going on under the hood will help you know what to expect and what questions to ask.

Broken Controls

When you notice a problem with your air conditioning, check the dashboard controls before anything else. Poor air conditioning may simply indicate a broken knob, button or digital display, according to the Auto Media website. See if any of buttons or dials look damaged before you assume that the air conditioning unit itself is experiencing problems.

No Cool Air

Air conditioning units that fail to produce cold air may be lacking rigerant. While it is natural for cars to lose some coolant over time, any significant loss is likely to affect the temperature of the air coming out of the vents. Refilling the coolant is a simple procedure, but a mechanic should test the system for any leaks to prevent the problem from occurring again. Water or oil spots beneath the car may indicate a rigerant leak.

A lack of cool air may also indicate a loose or broken belt, clogged valve or faulty air compressor. Since specialized equipment is often needed to diagnose these problems, they are best handled by a mechanic. If no air is coming out at all, it may be that the blower fan is malfunctioning.

Unpredictable Air

If the air coming from the cars vent is not as cool as usual, or if the cool air is unpredictable, it may be due to ice that has formed in the air conditioning units tubing, according to the Edmunds website. In order to resolve this problem, the system must be vacuumed in order to remove any unwanted moisture. The line may also be blocked by other contaminants. Other causes of partial cooling include a loose drive belt or defective clutch.

Noise

Loose or shaky hoses may cause the air conditioning system to run louder than usual. Unfortunately, noise may also indicate that the compressor itself is going bad. High pressure or contaminated rigerant are other causes of this problem.

Odor

Occasionally, the air coming from your cars vents may have an unpleasant odor. This is almost always caused by bacteria growing in the air conditioning system, reports the AA1 Car website. Even if you can tolerate the smell, the microbes in the air create a health hazard. Solve this problem by having a mechanic spray the system with a chemical solution.

The 2004 Toyota Tundra has had a number of recalls. One such recall is for the Tundra marker lights. A marker light is a blinking light that is produced to indicate the direction the driver is taking; its also known as a turn signal or indicator light. If your Tundras marker lights are constantly blinking, you may have a faulty blinker fuse or light bulb.

Instructions

1

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it clockwise to the "On" position, but do not start the engine.

2

Test the blinker system by inspecting the fuse panel. Look under the cars dashboard, which is located just below the drivers knee. Youll see the fuse box. Locate the tap on the fuse box cover and lift it up to snap the cover off. Remove the cover. On the underside of the cover is a chart that explains each fuse control.

3

Inspect the blinker flasher. Connect a jumper wire to two slots at the top of the fuse panel. Switch the blinker lever to the "Off" position. If the blinkers are still going, you may have a faulty fuse that will need to be replaced.

4

Turn off the Tundra and remove the key. Remove the marker light covers and replace the bulbs. Unscrew the cover and twist off the bulb. Insert another bulb into the housing and screw it in tightly. Insert the key into the ignition. If the lights continue to blink, youll have to turn to a mechanic to repair the fuse box.

Your 2002 Saturn is a nice car; unfortunately, you cant drive it at the moment because youve locked your keys inside it. The mechanics at a Florida Saturn dealership caution against attempting to retrieve them on your own. While you may have seen your parents use a wire or metal hanger at some point to unlock their own cars to retrieve locked-in keys, this technique may damage the inside of the door frame and is not highly recommended by Saturn. However, if you find yourself in this situation and need to retrieve your keys, exercise caution attempting to jimmy the lock of your 2002 Saturn with a wire hanger.

Instructions

1

Check all of your windows and doors to see if its your lucky day and one is down or unlocked. Your driver door might be locked, but one of the others might not have locked, making retrieving your keys very simple.

2

Bend a wire hanger or similarly sized object to create a hook or triangle shaped handle.

3

Push the hanger down in between the door frame and the window. As gently as possible, use the hanger to find the switch for the door lock. Late-model cars have more power equipment, so Saturn recommends exercising caution.

4

Pull the hanger until you find the door lock and hear the locks click open.

The tailpipe of your vehicle extends off the muffler. It is not uncommon to see smoke coming from the tailpipe, which is the last component and exit of a vehicles exhaust system. Smoke is not always a cause for concern, but always note the color. Color and odor of the exhaust smoke are sometimes the first clues in diagnosing problems with the vehicles exhaust and cooling systems.

White Smoke

Every vehicle is likely to show a small amount of white smoke when first started, especially on cold mornings. As long as the smoke disappears as the engine warms up, there is no need to worry. Its the result of cold fuel and steam as the manifold heats up, and the white is actually the steam burning off.

Coolant Leaks

Theres a more serious problem if your vehicle continues to emit white smoke after it is fully warmed up. This indicates the presence of either water or coolant antifreeze in the combustion chamber. Since these substances are not supposed to be burned during internal combustion, they can cause serious problems with your engine -- often indicating a damaged head gasket -- that are costly to repair.

Checking for Leaks

The odor of the smoke can indicate if you have a coolant leak. If antifreeze is present in the combustion chamber, the white smoke will have a sweet smell. Also check your oil. Milky oil indicates the presence of coolant but can also mean nothing; heavy humidity can cause moisture to form in the crankcase, resulting in a similar symptom. Do not attempt to drive your car if the oil looks more like a milkshake than motor oil, as this is a sign of excessive water or coolant in the oil.

Moisture

Water coming from the tail pipe is usually nothing to be concerned about. It indicates condensation buildup, or is the byproduct of the steam when first starting the vehicle. Most exhaust systems dispel small amounts of water through the tail pipe. Water from the muffler itself is also a normal occurrence, and is likely coming from the weep hole. This water is a byproduct of the catalytic converter, which helps control the vehicles emissions.

Charging a 7 amp hour (AH) sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a 10AH charger can be done, but it is detrimental to the health of your battery. Charging a battery with the wrong charger results in overcharging or undercharging.

Amp Hours

The capacity of a 7AH battery is significantly less than a 10AH battery. Since the 10AH battery holds a greater capacity, its charger provides an increased electrical flow. Using a 10AH charger with a 7AH battery results in overcharging. Unplugging the battery early results in undercharging.

Overcharging

Overcharging is caused by thermal runaway. Increased voltage will decompose the water in the electrolytes of the battery. Overheating occurs, allowing more voltage to enter the battery. Overcharging ages batteries very quickly.

Undercharging

Undercharging occurs when lower voltage is applied to a battery. Charging ends early and lead sulfate adheres to the electrodes. Due to the remaining lead sulfate, capacity is reduced. Removing a battery early also results in an incomplete charge. The risk of residual lead sulfate damage is still present. Charge your batteries completely to avoid diminished capacity.

In general, if your car needs to pass a state inspection, all parts must be in working order. There are some exceptions to that rule. If you are unsure, check your states inspection code.

Broken Lights

In most states requiring a vehicle inspection, including Maryland, Virginia and Pennsylvania among others, all factory original parts of the car, including fog lights, must be in working order. However, in New York State, a broken fog light will not cause a vehicle to be rejected.

Safety Check

If fog lights are required to be in working order, broken plastic or glass on the fog light will definitely get you a fail, as will improper bulbs. Most inspectors are looking for safety concerns when they check the fog lights. A small crack or sealant issue may cause the glass to cloud, which can change the light, causing a safety issue. Cracks and missing chunks also divert or brighten the light. At the same time, a wrong bulb could create the same effect.

Other Options

If your after-market fog lights are broken, you may remove the lights as they are not required in most jurisdictions. Make sure you do not leave hanging wires or switches.

Ignition timing is when the distributor sends an electric spark into the engine to ignite the fuel. This fuel ignition is what powers the car. The sequence in which this happens is very finely balanced, or "tuned," to provide maximum power and economy. When he timing is not set properly the car may experience hard starting, low power or bad gas mileage. Setting the timing is normally an easy task, but sometimes the manufacturers timing marks are missing or damaged. Setting the timing without any marks is not difficult with the right information and a few common tools.

Instructions

1

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and its a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the drivers side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicles specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

2

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

3

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

4

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

5

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

6

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

7

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

8

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

The Bernzomatic OX 2250 is not the type of torch that most people associate with Bernzomatic. Instead of the typical propane cylinder topped by a burner wand, this torch operates with two cylinders. Instead of propane, it uses a MAPP gas cylinder and an oxygen cylinder connected to a burner wand by a four-foot hose. Since there is no electronic igniter on the burner wand, Bernzomatic also includes a spark lighter with the kit. Unlike other models in the Bernzomatic line, the one thing the OX 2250 does well is welding.

Instructions

1

Clean off the steel rods with a wire brush at the welding points. Remove all rust dirt and debris from the welding area. Position the rods as desired for welding.

2

Open the black plastic gas valve on the side of gas connection on top of the MAPP gas cylinder one-eighth of a turn. Hold the cup of the spark lighter over the end of the burner wand. Squeeze the handle of the spark lighter, which drags a flint across a knurled steel surface, causing a spark that ignites the gas. Open the gas valve until the flame stops smoking. The flame should be approximately eight inches long at this point.

3

Open the black plastic oxygen valve on top of the oxygen tank connector. Open the valve slowly until the flame loses its feather in the middle.

4

Heat the steel rods where the weld begins, by applying heat from the burner wand until they become red-hot and form a puddle of molten metal between them.

5

Slip a welding rod into the puddle in order to add extra material to the weld. Work slowly down the entire area of the weld, working the torch back and forth between the rods while melting the steel rods and the welding rod into one, as the weld progresses.

6

ORemove the burner wand from the material when the weld is complete. Turn off the oxygen valve. Turn off the gas valve. Allow the weld to cool.

Automotive O2 sensors determine in real time if the air fuel ratio of your vehicles engine is lean or rich. They make electronic fuel injections and emission control possible. Sensors typically last from 30,000 miles to more than 100,000 miles. Driving with a bad O2 sensor is like avoiding going to the dentist. You will cause damage to your car, just as you would cause damage to your teeth by avoiding the dentist. The only issue is how much damage you are willing to endure before you replace your O2 sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the speed limit at all times. Do not speed. Your gas mileage and catalytic converter are already in jeopardy due to the bad O2 sensor. The harder you drive, the more damage you will cause to your catalytic converter.

2

Accelerate slowly. Slamming on the gas to achieve quick acceleration will exacerbate any damage being done to your vehicle.

3

Brake often. Again, the slower you drive, the better. Leave at least three to five seconds of time between yourself and the vehicle in front of you.

4

Plan out your trips before you leave your home. If you plan ahead of time, you will avoid backtracking and any unnecessary driving.

5

Limit driving as much as possible. If you can wait to mail that letter to your grandma, wait. If you can walk to any spots you need to go to, do so. Walking is good exercise and it will limit wear and tear on your car.

At some point nearly every car owner will need to have a car repaired, and the majority feel forced to rely on the mechanic to make an honest assessment of the work necessary to maintain or repair the car. Since most drivers do not have the knowledge or equipment required for anything but the simplest repairs, they need guidance on how to find an honest mechanic. A few simple steps can lead a car owner to that very person.

Instructions

1

Ask a specialist in diagnostics to assess repairs and maintenance for the car. A diagnostician has no reason to add nonexistent problems to a list of repairs, but he will want to include all the real problems to earn the customers future business. Compare what the diagnostician found to what other shops tell you.

2

Ask friends, family or an insurance agent for recommendations. Make sure they have actual experience with a mechanics work.

3

Call any potential repair shops to ask for a list of their trade association memberships and call those associations to confirm membership. Check a shops complaint history with your states consumer protection agency or the local Better Business Bureau. This history also may include the resolution of those complaints. Look not only for the mechanic with a low number of complaints but also for a mechanic with a good history of complaint resolution.

4

Ask mechanics about their ability to work on your make and model and check their shops for certifications to work on that make and model. Also look at the cars on the work bays or on the lot. A number of cars of the same or similar make and model indicate an ability to work on your car.

5

Determine the shops prices and the warranty on work done. Shops often post that information in plain view on the work floor.

6

Talk to the mechanics in the shop. Their willingness to answer questions and the clarity of their answers are indicators of their honesty.

7

Instruct the mechanic to diagnose the car and reject any mechanic whose estimate is grossly in excess of the diagnostic mechanics estimate. Review the proposals for a clause specifying the installation of new parts rather than used ones.

The shock absorber springs on a motorcycle have nothing to do with lowering the seat height, which is what riders are usually trying to accomplish by lowering the rear end. Some motorcycle shock absorbers have visible springs encasing the damper tubes, and some have only damper tubes. Whatever the brand, model or year of your motorcycle, it came with shock absorbers that are exactly the length your bikes manufacturer recommends. And, regardless of the bike, shock absorbers sold as "under standard length" in 1/2-inch increments are readily available. Just install a set of shock absorbers that are 1 inch under standard length.

Instructions

1

Raise the motorcycle to be fully upright and level by either placing the front wheel of the bike in a motorcycle chock, clamping the front wheel in a motorcycle vise on a motorcycle lift, or slightly raising the bike on a motorcycle jack.

2

Remove the lower then the upper shock absorber mounting bolts on the right-side shock, using a standard or metric hex socket, Torx socket or Allen socket and a socket wrench. The socket you will use depends on the manufacturer, model and year of your motorcycle.

3

Remove the right-side shock absorber. Unfasten the same four bolts on the left side of the motorcycle and remove the left shock absorber.

4

Clean the bolts, nuts and washers you remove with a rag and light oil. Apply a few drops of thread locker to the old bolts.

5

Replace the old shock absorbers with new, shorter shock absorbers on both sides of the motorcycle using the old bolts, washers and nuts.

6

Remove the bike from the chock, motorcycle vise or motorcycle jack.

7

Sit in the saddle. Bounce up and down. Ensure the shocks work properly.

There have been industrywide concerns relating to the performance of accelerators on many vehicles over the last decade. Honda has experienced these issues with many of its vehicles. Problems have included sudden or involuntary acceleration and stuck or rigid accelerator pedals. The NHTSA, a regulating body that administers vehicle safety requirements throughout the U.S., has investigated such problems at length. An increased number of incidents have been reported by consumers in the last five years.

Involuntary Acceleration with the Honda Accord

There have been reports of the Honda Accord gas-electric hybrid model suffering instances of independent acceleration. This involves the car accelerating without pressure after the application of the brakes. In certain incidences, the braking power initially was lost prior to a sudden and unexpected burst of engine acceleration. Investigations have shown that this typically happens when vehicles are driven over uneven surfaces. Given the nature and volume of complaints, further checks may be performed on the model to ensure adequate performance.

Stuck Accelerator in Honda Accord Models

Earlier models of the Honda Accord also suffered intermittent accelerator problems. The most common was the rigidity and fixed nature of the accelerator pedal after an extended period of idleness (reported in the 2001 model). This issue is widespread among many car manufacturers, especially those that produce fuel-injected models. It can be caused by wear to the throttle plate and pedals and can be fixed by lubricating them with a light oil. Although this can help relieve the symptoms of the problem, the throttle and accelerator may still require professional attention.

Sudden Acceleration in the 2004 Honda Pilot

Customer reports concerning the 2004 Honda Pilot suggest the vehicle is prone to sudden acceleration and speed regulation issues. A minimal amount of pressure applied to the accelerator pedal causes a disproportionate amount of speed. This poses a hazard in tight spaces and when maneuvering the vehicle out of parking spaces. The unpredictability of the accelerator and throttle function of the 2004 model persisted to a lesser degree in the 2005 Honda Pilot. Consumers reported that the vehicle can accelerate while the driver is braking.