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The drive shaft is the part of a vehicle that transfers power from the engine, via the transmission, to the drive wheels. On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential transfers the energy to a drive shaft that runs the length of the vehicle. On front-wheel-drive cars, like the 2001 Infiniti I30, the shaft is in two parts, one on each side of the vehicle, and runs side to side. Notice that the procedure differs slightly depending on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels and raise the car. Support the car with a jack stand on each side, remove the lug nuts and take off both wheels.

2

Use a socket wrench with a long cheater bar attached to remove the wheel bearing locking nut.

3

Use a socket wrench to remove the two nuts on the two lower strut mounting bolts, and remove the bolts.

4

Remove the brake line from the strut by removing it from the attaching clip.

5

Remove the right drive shaft first if the vehicle has an automatic transmission. Place a block of wood against the drive shaft where it protrudes from the hub and strike it lightly several times with a hammer to separate it from the knuckle. Do not do this without the block of wood in place. If the shaft uses to separate, you will need to use a tie rod puller to remove it. The puller fits over the drive shaft and separates the two parts as you tighten it.

6

Pull the right drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the car has an automatic transmission, insert a tool such as a large screwdriver or punch into the hole where the right drive shaft fits and strike it with a hammer to separate the left drive shaft. You can then simply pull the left drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the Infiniti is equipped with a manual transmission, you will need to repeat the procedure described in Step 5 on the left side of the car as well.

The proper nomenclature for a starter drive is a Bendix. The starter motor drive shaft has a spiral groove on which the Bendix rides. The Bendix is normally posed next to the motor when not in operation. When the motor is actuated, the spinning of the motors shaft causes the Bendix, complete with gear, to move away from the motor where it engages the flexplate gear. When the motor stops turning, spring pressure retracts the Bendix to its stationary position.

Instructions

1

Try to start the engine. If you hear a loud whirring noise, the starter motor has engaged and there is definitely something wrong with the starter or flexplate gear. If you hear no sound, the starter has not actuated.

2

Open the hood and test the battery voltage with the voltmeter. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the positive terminal on the battery and the black lead to the negative terminal. There should be 12.5 volts or better. If not, charge the battery and test again. If it does not take a charge replace it. If it does take a charge, watch the voltmeter as a helper turns the key to start. If the voltage remains constant, a wire or solenoid problem exists. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts replace the battery. Check the alternator output if the battery took a charge.

3

Check the power to the starter solenoid B+ terminal. This is the wire cable directly from the battery to the solenoid. Place the black voltmeter lead on a good ground and probe the solenoid terminal with the red wire. Battery voltage should be present if the wire and battery terminals are good.

4

Check the S-terminal on the solenoid. This is the small terminal that receives power from the ignition switch that actuates the starter. Remove the S-terminal small wire and probe it while a helper turns the key to the start position. It should have power. If it doesnt, the ignition switch is bad. If there is power at both terminals and the starter just clicks or makes no noise at all, replace the starter. If the starter runs but does not turn the engine proceed to the next step.

5

Remove the negative cable on the battery using a wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle so that it rests on the jack stands.

6

Remove the starter bolts with a socket and pull the starter out. Disconnect the large primary power wire on the B+ terminal and the small wire on the S-terminal using a wrench. Lay the starter on the ground in front of the vehicle.

7

Test the starter using the jumper cables. Connect the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery and the other end of this cable to the body of the starter. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery. Take the red lead in hand and momentarily touch the large stud just below the large B+ terminal. Watch the starter Bendix. It should immediately snap out to the end of the starter motor shaft as the motor is spinning. As soon as the motor stops the Bendix should retract. If not, replace the starter. If it does operate perfectly, the problem is the flexplate gear. The ring gear that surrounds the flexplate is what the Bendix engages to turn the engine. This requires removing the transmission and torque converter in order to replace.

The engine accessories on the 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier are driven by a single accessory belt. The belt is designed to operate the power steering pump, alternator, air conditioner and the water pump by traveling around all of the accessory pulleys at the same time. The ribs on the inside of the accessory belt travel inside of the grooves of each accessory pulley. This allows the belt to turn the accessory pulleys easier. Change the belt out if there are any visible signs of wear, fraying or cracking.

Instructions

1

Inspect the top of the plastic shield that covers the radiator for the accessory belt routing diagram. Install the new belt by following the routing directions from this diagram.

2

Locate the self-adjusting belt tensioner on the front left-hand side of the motor. The tensioner has an idler pulley attached to the end of the tensioner arm. Rotate the entire tensioner device from the metric bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley.

3

Rotate the tensioner device in a clockwise motion with a breaker bar and a socket. Pull the belt off of the top of the tensioner pulley. Release the tension from the breaker bar, and let the tensioner retract until it stops.

4

Remove the single belt out from around all of the accessory pulleys. Pull the belt over each fan blade and out of the engine well.

5

Slide the new belt over each fan blade and into each of the accessory pulley as directed by the belt routing diagram.

6

Rotate the tensioner in a clockwise motion with the breaker bar and socket again. Pull the belt over the top of the tensioner pulley, and release the tension from the breaker bar until the tensioner stops retracting against the belt. Remove the breaker bar from the tensioner pulley.

7

Crank the motor up and let it run for around 15 seconds to seat the ribs of the belt to the grooves of each pulley. Turn the motor off.

The 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4-wheel drive pickup comes equipped with four shock absorbers. The front shocks are part of a coil spring/shock absorber assembly. Separating the shock absorber from the coil spring requires special tools and is potentially dangerous. It is wise to replace the coil and shock as a single unit to avoid having to disassemble the unit. The rear shocks and coil springs are separate units, and you can replace the shocks without removing the springs.

Instructions

Front Shocks

1

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the front of the truck and support each front wheel with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and both front wheels from the truck.

2

With a socket wrench, remove the nut and bolt from the lower end of the shock, where it attaches to the lower control arm. If the bolt is extremely tight, attach a cheater bar to the socket wrench to gain more mechanical advantage.

3

Remove the three nuts from the top of the shock/coil assembly. These are the nuts around the top edge of the assembly. Do not remove the center nut.

4

Pull the shock/coil assembly down off the vehicle.

5

Place the new shock/coil assembly bolts up into the holes in the mounting bracket and replace the nuts without tightening them.

6

Replace the bolt and nut on the lower end of the shock, where it connects to the lower control arm. Tighten the nut to 101 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Tighten the three upper nuts to 47 foot-pounds of torque. Repeat the procedure on the opposite shock/coil assembly.

8

Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts.

Rear Shocks

9

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle by placing a floor jack under the rear axle. There should be no weight on either wheel assembly.

10

With a socket wrench, remove the mounting bolt from the upper end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the frame.

11

Remove the mounting bolt from the lower end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the spring seat bracket. Pull the old shock off of the truck.

12

Place the new shock absorber into position. Replace the lower mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Replace the upper mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque. Follow the same procedure to replace the opposite shock absorber.

14

Replace the rear wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

Automotive O2 sensors determine in real time if the air fuel ratio of your vehicles engine is lean or rich. They make electronic fuel injections and emission control possible. Sensors typically last from 30,000 miles to more than 100,000 miles. Driving with a bad O2 sensor is like avoiding going to the dentist. You will cause damage to your car, just as you would cause damage to your teeth by avoiding the dentist. The only issue is how much damage you are willing to endure before you replace your O2 sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the speed limit at all times. Do not speed. Your gas mileage and catalytic converter are already in jeopardy due to the bad O2 sensor. The harder you drive, the more damage you will cause to your catalytic converter.

2

Accelerate slowly. Slamming on the gas to achieve quick acceleration will exacerbate any damage being done to your vehicle.

3

Brake often. Again, the slower you drive, the better. Leave at least three to five seconds of time between yourself and the vehicle in front of you.

4

Plan out your trips before you leave your home. If you plan ahead of time, you will avoid backtracking and any unnecessary driving.

5

Limit driving as much as possible. If you can wait to mail that letter to your grandma, wait. If you can walk to any spots you need to go to, do so. Walking is good exercise and it will limit wear and tear on your car.