For U Solution

The Toyota Avalon is a full-size luxury car produced in the United States since 1994. The outside mirrors on the Avalon are fairly easy to remove from the vehicle, and most of the work deals with exposing the cables and electrical connectors for the mirrors. In order to do that you need to remove a number of panels from the interior of the vehicle. The procedure is the same for both of the outside mirrors.

Instructions

1

Detach the two clips and three claws from the armrest with a screwdriver, and remove the armrest from the vehicle. Detach the clip and five claws from the upper armrest panel, leaving the master switch for the power window still attached.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector and the three retaining screws for the power window master switch with a socket wrench, and remove the master switch for the power window from the upper armrest panel. Detach the seven claws from the lower armrest panel, and remove the lower armrest panel with the door lock switch still attached.

3

Detach the electrical connector for door lock switch, and detach the two claws on the door lock switch with a screwdriver. Remove the door lock switch from the lower armrest panel.

4

Place a clip remover in front of the door handle between the door trim and the mounting plate for the door handle. Hold the clip remover in place and turn the handle to remove it from the door panel. Detach the clip and claw from the garnish, and remove the garnish from the door panel.

5

Remove the three retaining screws and eight clips from the door panel with a screwdriver. Pull the door panel upward, and detach the door handle from the door with a screwdriver. Push the door handle forward, then away from the door to release the claw on the door handle. Remove the door handle from the door with the cables still attached.

6

Disconnect both cables from the inside handle and remove the service hole cover from the front door. Detach the electrical connector from the outer mirror, unfasten the three retaining nuts from the outer mirror with a screwdriver and remove the mirror from the vehicle.

7

Install the new mirror, and secure the retaining nuts with a screwdriver. Attach the electrical connector to the mirror and replace the service hole cover on the front door. Connect the cables to the inside door handle.

8

Mount the inside door handle to the door, and replace the door panel. Attach the garnish for the door handle, and fasten the door handle to the door. Install the door lock switch to the lower armrest panel, and install the lower armrest panel to the vehicle. Install the master switch to the upper armrest panel, and install the upper armrest panel to the vehicle.

The oxygen sensor in your 2001 Toyota Tundra may one day go bad and need replacement. The oxygen (O2) sensor is responsible for regulating the oxygen and fuel ratio in your vehicle, contributing to the efficiency of gas usage. If the oxygen sensor goes bad, your Tundra may run poorly and get poor gas mileage. Knowing how to replace it yourself can save you money.

Instructions

Instructions

1

Locate the oxygen sensor on the pre-catalytic converter. This is located near the right-front wheel well of your Tundra.

2

Detach the large air intake pipe that is connected to the air box going to the rear turbo. Also remove the two smaller air pipes connected to the air box running to the blow off. This will give you access to reach the sensor. Soak the oxygen sensor in penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) to loosen it for easier removal.

3

Use the 7/8-inch wrench to remove the old oxygen sensor. Find the stock sensor wire near the engine lift loop by the firewall. Splice the stock sensor wire and connect it with the wires to the new oxygen sensor using crimp connectors.

4

Apply some of the anti-seize paste to the threads of the new sensor. Be caul not to get any of the paste on the sensor itself or it will ruin it. This will make the oxygen sensor easier to remove the next time.

5

Screw the new sensor in by hand. Fully tighten it with the wrench so it can not be loosened by hand. Reattach the air pipes again.

The 1996 Toyota Camry has four headlights. One low beam and one high beam sit side-by-side on both sides of the car. The low beams are positioned in the outer corners of the headlight assembly while the high beam sit in the inner corners. The low and high beams have different part numbers (despite looking identical), since they perform different functions. Make sure to insert the correct bulbs in the correct positions.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the Toyota Camry, ensure the headlight switch is off and open the hood.

2

Reach behind the headlight lens assembly and locate the separate wire harness plugs for the low and high beams.

3

Disconnect the wire harness plug from the socket base of the headlight being replaced. The plugs have a locking clip that snaps over a small tab on the headlight sockets. Lift the clip up and pull the plug from the headlight socket.

4

Turn the headlight retainer ring counterclockwise 1/3 of a turn and extract the headlight and ring from the back of the headlight lens assembly. Discard the faulty headlight.

5

Put on a pair of latex gloves to avoid accidentally touching the glass bulb of the headlight. Halogen headlights use an internal gas to burn brighter, and skin oils will damage the glass.

6

Insert the collar of the headlight socket into the retainer ring and align the tabs on the socket to the notches in the headlight lens assembly.

7

Turn the ring and socket clockwise 1/3 turn until they lock in place.

8

Connect the wire harness plug to the headlight socket until it clicks into the locked position.

9

Test the headlight(s) for proper operation.

The oxygen (or O2) sensor on your Toyota helps balance the engines fuel-to-air ratio. A faulty O2 sensor can cause your engine light to come on. It might also prevent the vehicle from starting. Your Toyota is equipped with two O2 sensors. They are located underneath the vehicle on the exhaust pipe, with one on either side of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Set the emergency brake.

2

Jack up the front end of your Toyota. Put the jack stands in place.

3

Slide under the vehicle with the socket set and locate the O2 sensor you will be replacing. Sensor 1 is located on the exhaust pipe, on the left hand side of the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 is located on the right hand side of the catalytic converter closest to the vehicles rear end.

4

Loosen the two mounting bolts that hold the sensor to the exhaust pipe with your socket set.

5

Unplug the sensor from its socket by squeezing in the two safety tabs on the sides of the socket and pulling the sensor free.

6

Plug in the new O2 sensor. Re-mount it to the exhaust pipe with the mounting bolts.

7

Remove the jack stands and lower your Toyota.

The automatic transmission in a 1999 Toyota Camry connects to the back of the engine, from which it delivers power to the wheels. The transmission keeps the engine operating at the speed at which it can develop its most efficient power. The transmission also moves the vehicle in reverse and disconnects the engine from the wheels in its neutral and park positions. The automatic transmission found in front-wheel-drive vehicles like the Camry is also called a transaxle.

Torque Converter

The torque converter, also called the torque converter clutch, mounts on the flywheel of the engine and provides an indirect link between the engine and the transmission. This link allows you to stop the vehicle and keep the engine idling without stalling. In the past, the torque converter continuously slipped during driving, causing less efficient operation. In the Camry, the torque converter has a lockup mode that operates while the vehicle travels at cruising speed. This mode prevents the torque converter from slipping, which increases operating efficiency.

Planetary Gears

Planetary gears consist of a system of gears with three parts. They have an outer ring gear --- a ring with teeth inside it. Three small gears, called planets, engage the teeth inside of the ring at opposite thirds of the ring gear, where they mesh with a third gear in the center called a sun gear. The transmission input shaft applies power to a component of the planetary gears. The band or brake holds one part from turning. The third component then turns, supplying power output to the output shaft. In one mode of operation, for example, the transmission input clutch applies power to the outer ring gear. A band holds the planet gears in place; the sun gear then turns, driving the output shaft. The component receiving the power and the output component vary depending on the gear ratio needed.

Clutches and Bands

The clutches and bands provide the holding and power application to the planetary gears. Bands activated by hydraulic pistons operate as brakes, squeezing a section of the planetary gears to stop them. The clutches consist of cylinders containing disks that, when pressurized with hydraulic fluid, lock in place to apply power as needed to the planetary gears. The 1999 Camry has forward and direct clutches, as well as three bands --- also called brakes.

Valve Body

The valve body consists of a series of passageways that allow hydraulic fluid to pass through to the clutches and pistons as needed. A solenoid valve releases hydraulic fluid into the valve body passages. The paths connect to various places in the transmission that require fluid pressure at different times. The 1999 Camry has two solenoid valves located in the valve body.

Other Components

The transmission has an oil pump that provides the pressure to make the hydraulic system operate correctly. Multiple seals and gaskets prevent the oil from leaking and to keep it flowing where it needs to go. Most modern transmissions also have multiple electronic components controlled by the power train control module.

The Toyota Sienna is a minivan with front-wheel drive. The 2006 model is a second-generation Sienna, which features a six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It uses a timing belt to ensure that the cylinders fire at the correct point in their cycle. The replacement of the timing belt is part of normal vehicle maintenance, as this part wears out periodically.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from unintentionally starting the engine during the timing belt replacement.

2

Disconnect the windshield wiper arm assemblies with a socket wrench. Remove the cowl panel and its seal. Detach the windshield washer hose, and disconnect the cowl top louvers. Unplug the electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor and disconnect the cowl top panel.

3

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Remove the bolts for the accessory drive belt and remove the drive belt. Detach the electrical connector for the alternator and loosen the mounting bolts for the alternator. Remove the alternator.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the power steering pump and remove its drive belt. Detach the coolant reservoir hose. Disconnect the diagnostic link connector from the No. 2 right mounting bracket for the engine. Disconnect the engines right mounting stay, moving control rod and No. 2 right mounting bracket.

5

Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley with tools 09213-54015, 91651-60855 and 09330-00021. Pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with tools 09950-50011, 09952-5010, 09953-05010, 09953-05020 and 09954-05020.

6

Disconnect the lower cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove the guide for the timing belt from the crankshaft. Release the clamps on the the upper timing belt cover and disconnect the upper timing belt cover. Remove the right mounting brace for the engine. Install the bolt for the crankshaft pulley temporarily.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket with the notch on the oil pump. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing belt and the timing belt.

8

Install the new timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, left camshaft sprocket, No. 2 idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and No. 1 idler pulley in that order. Push the pushrod into the housing for the timing belt tensioner with vertical press 98,1-9807 to align the holes in the tensioner housing. Place a 1.27mm Allen wrench to hold the pushrod in place and release the vertical press.

9

Install the tensioner for the timing belt and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the housing on the belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete turns so that the timing marks align.

10

Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Connect the right mounting bracket for the engine and tighten its bolts to 21 ft. lbs with a socket wrench. Install the upper cover for the timing belt and connect the guide for the timing belt so that its cup side faces down. Connect the lower cover for the timing belt.

11

Install the crankshaft pulley with tools 09213-54015, 91651-60855 and 09330-00021. Tighten the mounting bolts to 159 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Perform steps one through four in reverse order to install the additional components. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

It often starts with a loud popping sound while youre turning. A worn or damaged constant velocity, or CV, joint. The CV joints provide the flexibility that allows the wheels to turn. The inner CV joint is a plunging tripod joint connected to the transmission. The plunging action allows the axle to extend and contract as the suspension moves up and down. Power from the transmission transfers to the driving wheels through the axle shafts. An outer CV joint is splined to a hub on the axle. A rubber boot shields each CV joint and contains the lubricant.

Instructions

1

Put the wheels straight ahead and set the emergency brake.

2

Raise the vehicle with vehicle ramps or a sturdy jack on solid ground. Support the vehicle with jack stands, ramps or both for safety. If the vehicle falls, it can seriously damage the vehicles components. It can also seriously injure or kill anyone around or under it.

3

Remove the front wheels and disconnect the anti-lock brake system speed sensor.

4

Disconnect the cotter pin and remove the axle shaft lock nut cap. Have a second person apply the vehicles brakes and remove the axle shaft/bearing lock nut. Detach the engine undercover.

5

Drain the transmission fluid into a container while avoiding spills. Recycle the fluid by taking it to a local auto parts store. Federal law prohibits disposal in sewers, drains or on grass.

6

Disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm.

7

Separate the axle shaft from the bearing hub using a hammer or puller. Use a pry bar to separate the left axle shaft from the transaxle.

8

Use your hammer and a tapping fork to separate the right axle shaft from the transaxle. Be careful. Avoid damaging the speed sensor serration on the drive shaft. Toyota recommends removing the right axle shaft and the intermediate shaft as a complete assembly.

9

Manipulate the inner CV joint. Make sure it slides smoothly in the thrust direction. Ensure radial movement is free from excessive play. The expected range is between .08 and .12 inch of play in the shaft and too tight to pull out by hand.

10

Remove the CV joint boot clamps and slide the boots away from the joint. Examine the boots. If there are signs of cracks or leakage, you must replace them.

11

Mark each component of the CV joint housings, tripod joints and shafts as re-alignment references before disassembling them. After completing the reference marks, disassemble the axle shafts.

A 1993 Toyota Corolla comes equipped with an OBD, or On-Board Diagnostics, computer system that reads and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors placed throughout the vehicle. The sensors keep track of all of the vehicles mechanical systems. When the air bag (or SRS -- Supplemental Restraint System) light illuminates on your dashboard, you need to have the vehicle checked right away to prevent a malfunctioning air bag. Once you have completed the repairs, reset the air bag light right away, so the computer will continue to monitor the air bag system properly.

Instructions

1

Find the fuse panel cover on the dashboard between the steering column and the drivers door. Pull down on the panel cover with your fingers to open it. It may take a good tug to release the retaining clip.

2

Locate a yellow connector inside the fuse panel and remove it from the panel.

3

Unfold a paperclip and attach each end if it to each of the terminals on the connector. This will short the light out.

4

Put the connector back in the fuse panel and replace the cover.

5

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Verify that the air bag light has turned off.

When you see the "Check Engine" light on your Toyota Camrys display panel, it has illuminated because of the ECU, or "Electronic Control Unit." This is a computer that stores codes sent to it by sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When this light comes on, you should take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic or fix it yourself as soon as possible. Once the problem is fixed, you can reset the system and turn the light off manually.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Pull down on it with your fingers to remove it.

2

Examine the diagram on the fuse panel cover and find the electronic control unit fuse.

3

Remove the fuse puller from inside the fuse panel and use it to pull the fuse out for the electronic control unit.

4

Put the key into the ignition and turn on the car but dont turn over the engine. Wait a few minutes then put the fuse back in place. You should notice the check engine light blinking a few times on the instrument panel, then it will go off.

5

Turn off the engine and replace the fuse panel cover.

The 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4-wheel drive pickup comes equipped with four shock absorbers. The front shocks are part of a coil spring/shock absorber assembly. Separating the shock absorber from the coil spring requires special tools and is potentially dangerous. It is wise to replace the coil and shock as a single unit to avoid having to disassemble the unit. The rear shocks and coil springs are separate units, and you can replace the shocks without removing the springs.

Instructions

Front Shocks

1

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the front of the truck and support each front wheel with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and both front wheels from the truck.

2

With a socket wrench, remove the nut and bolt from the lower end of the shock, where it attaches to the lower control arm. If the bolt is extremely tight, attach a cheater bar to the socket wrench to gain more mechanical advantage.

3

Remove the three nuts from the top of the shock/coil assembly. These are the nuts around the top edge of the assembly. Do not remove the center nut.

4

Pull the shock/coil assembly down off the vehicle.

5

Place the new shock/coil assembly bolts up into the holes in the mounting bracket and replace the nuts without tightening them.

6

Replace the bolt and nut on the lower end of the shock, where it connects to the lower control arm. Tighten the nut to 101 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Tighten the three upper nuts to 47 foot-pounds of torque. Repeat the procedure on the opposite shock/coil assembly.

8

Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts.

Rear Shocks

9

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle by placing a floor jack under the rear axle. There should be no weight on either wheel assembly.

10

With a socket wrench, remove the mounting bolt from the upper end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the frame.

11

Remove the mounting bolt from the lower end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the spring seat bracket. Pull the old shock off of the truck.

12

Place the new shock absorber into position. Replace the lower mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Replace the upper mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque. Follow the same procedure to replace the opposite shock absorber.

14

Replace the rear wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

You can pull the computer codes from your Toyota Previa right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. To read the codes you will need to buy an OBD code scanner. These handheld computerized devices are available at most auto parts stores. The scanner reads computer codes which are stored in the vehicles On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer. Each code tells you information about the Toyota to help you troubleshoot the problems.

Instructions

1

Find a port on the drivers side of the vehicle near the steering column. This port looks the same as the connective end on the OBD code scanner. Plug the OBD code scanner into the port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position, taking care not to start the engine. This should power on your scanner. If not, find an "on/off" switch on the scanner and press it on.

3

Select the "Retrieve Codes" command on the scanner. Wait for the scanner to show you the trouble codes and write them down on a piece of paper. Look up these alphanumeric codes in the scanners manual.

4

Unplug the OBD code scanner from the port. Take the Previa to be serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes you retrieved.

The rear view mirror in a Toyota Matrix fastens to the windshield. This is the way most late model import vehicles have the mirror attached. The base of the mirror is bolted to a metal plate called a "button" that is glued to the windshield. Replacing a broken mirror is not difficult because it only requires the removal of one small set screw. This is a perfect beginner project for the do-it-yourself home mechanic.

Instructions

1

Push the mirror glass upward so it faces the roof of the Toyota Matrix. This gives you more room to remove the set screw located at the base of the mirror.

2

Remove the set screw from the base of the mirror with an Allen wrench, turning it counterclockwise.

3

Slide the base of the mirror up and off the metal button.

4

Place the rear view mirror on the Matrixs windshield, directly above the metal button.

5

Slide the base of the mirror down onto the button until the mirror seats into place.

6

Screw the setscrew into place with the Allen wrench turned clockwise.

Correct ignition timing specifications are crucial for engine performance. Timing affects many variables, including fuel economy and engine longevity. Corolla is one of the most popular compact cars, introduced in 1966 by Japanese automaker Toyota. Its engineers have determined precise timing specifications so that you can maximize benefits and use of your Corolla as much as possible.

Adjusting Timing

The base timing on the 1995 Toyota Corolla is preset when the company manufactures the engine, and no adjustment is possible. The powertrain control module (PCM) manages timing advance and retard, along with with ignition control (IC) and knock sensor (KS) systems.

Base Timing Specification

The best time at which the air-fuel mixture should be fully burned on the 1995 Corolla is 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) with the maximum allowable difference of +2 degrees both for the 1.6 liter and the 1.8 liter engine. The engine should run at about 700 RPM.

Notes

Allow the engine to warm up before measuring timing. Also, reaching maximum RPM is not allowed during the ignition timing check. Cooling fan and vacuum advance should be turned off while you are adjusting the ignition timing.

The name "Camry" is an anglicized interpretation of the cars original nomenclature "Kanmuri," which means "crown" in Japanese. Little could Toyota have known when it introduced the car in 1982 how appropriate that name would become, as the Camry would eventually be crowned the king of compact sedans in America.

Ignition Function

The basic purpose of any automobiles ignition system is to ignite the air/fuel in the cylinders. Three basic parts comprise the ignition system: the triggering mechanism that sends energy to the spark plugs, the ignition coil that amplifies the triggering energy to create a powerful spark and the spark plug that receives that energy to make the air/fuel mixture detonate. The shorter the distance between the ignition coil and plug, the less energy the system loses through resistance in the wire.

Coil Pack Ignition

Ideally, a spark plug should be connected directly to the ignition coil so that every bit of the coils energy goes into creating a spark. This wasnt practical on older, distributor-driven cars; the distributor itself was the weak link in the system, so the gains would have been minimal. It wasnt until the mid-1980s that computers and magnetic sensors were cheap enough, powerful enough and sophisticated enough to detect crankshaft position and trigger the coil without a distributor. Once these were mass-produced, manufacturers began using a computer to trigger multiple coils in a "coil pack." Each coil provided energy to two cylinders.

Direct Ignition

Direct ignition is an evolution of coil-pack ignition and uses a single coil mounted directly to the back of the spark plug instead of one coil for every two cylinders. Direct ignition is the most theoretically perfect ignition possible with todays technology, offering a very powerful, computer-controlled spark without relying on a single moving component. The Camry doesnt actually use a coil pack; it has direct ignition with one small coil-pack-style coil per cylinder.

Failure

One of the direct ignition systems strongest trump cards is that it uses solid-state technology. There are no moving parts to wear out; even the crankshaft position sensor is fully magnetic, so it cant wear out through normal use as a mechanical component would. Aside from computer failure, the only way that a direct ignition system can fail is if the coil itself internally shorts out or something happens to the wiring between the coils and the computer.

If you suspect ignition coil failure, simply unplug the wiring harness from the top of the plug and see if the engine changes pitch or idle quality. Of course, the Camrys on-board diagnostics system will already have detected a coil malfunction and triggered a check engine light, so this might action might not be necessary.

You can check the error codes on your 2002 Toyota Corolla from your garage, saving you time and money. The 2002 Toyota Corolla comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer (OBD II) that retrieves and stores all codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the car. When these sensors find a problem with the car, they send the code to the OBD II computer which, in turn, lights up a warning or service light on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these codes with a small, computerized device called an OBD II code scanner, which you can purchase at any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Locate a port on the under side of the drivers side dashboard. It is near the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD II code scanner carefully into this port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position. Dont crank the engine.

4

Wait while the code scanner powers on. Some scanners need to be turned on manually with a switch. If so, turn it on.

5

Select "Retrieve Codes" or a similar command. Wait for the scanner to interface with the vehicles computer, then write the alphanumeric codes down on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the scanners manual to find out their meaning. Unplug the code scanner and take the vehicle to be serviced or repaired by a qualified mechanic.

Replacing the taillight bulbs on the Toyota Tacoma pickup is a simple project to undertake in the driveway or garage at home. The Tacomas taillight bulbs sit in plastic assemblies; you can reach a bulb only by removing the corresponding taillight assembly from the truck. There are two bolts that hold each taillight assembly in place, and there are two stubborn pins on the back of the assembly that snap into clips on the outboard edge of the taillight. The entire process will take about 10 minutes; it requires only basic hand tools to complete.

Instructions

1

Open the tailgate of your Tacoma and locate the two 10mm bolts that secure the taillight assembly through the side of the cargo bed. There are several bolts in there; you want to unscrew the ones that dont have a washer under them.

2

Remove the retaining bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet, then grasp the taillight assembly with both hands and pull it straight back. It will not come off easily, but it will come off.

3

Locate the three bulb sockets on the back of the taillight assembly; the center one is the taillight/brake-light bulb. Turn the socket counterclockwise then pull it straight out of the assembly. Pull the bulb out of the socket and discard it.

4

Push a new bulb into the socket. Make sure it is secure. Install the socket into the rear of the taillight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place, then slide the assembly back onto the rear of the truck, pushing it in until the retaining pins on the assembly snap in to the body and the screw holes align with the holes in the truck body.

5

Install the two retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the bolts or you will crack the plastic taillight assembly. Close the tailgate.

Toyota uses a short belt to drive the power steering pump on the 2003 Sienna models. The power steering drive belt is separate from the belt that drives the other hang-on equipment to prevent the loss of power steering if the other accessory belt fails. Over time, the power steering belt will stretch and lose tension, leading to belt slippage and loss of power steering when under heavy steering loads. Adjust the belt to restore steering power.

Instructions

1

Locate the pivot bolt at the top left and the adjustment bolt at the bottom right of the power steering pump.

2

Loosen the pivot bolt, using the SST extension and ratchet. Loosen the adjustment bolt, using a ratchet and socket.

3

Grasp the power steering pump and rotate it clockwise to tighten the belt. Tighten the pivot bolt to 22 foot-pounds, using the SST and a foot-pound torque wrench.

4

Tighten the adjustment bolt to 32 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket.

5

Push down on the center of the belt between the power steering pump and the crankshaft pulley. There should be about 1/4 inch of deflection in the belt.

The Muffler and Tailpipe Assembly

From the assembly line, the Toyota Tacoma comes with an inlet pipe, muffler and tailpipe all welded together as a single unit. It is common when replacing an exhaust system on the Toyota Tacoma, to deal with the replacement of this assembly. From the Toyota dealership, the same assembly would be installed, again welded together as a single unit. In the popular and more cost effective aftermarket exhaust replacement market, the system is usually broken up into two or three pieces. The muffler would stand alone or have the inlet pipe welded to it and the tailpipe would be a separate pipe attached to the muffler by a clamp.

Replacing the Exhaust

The muffler inlet pipe (in front of the muffler) is attached to the catalytic converter with a two-bolt flange. With the Tacoma on a car lift, (much easier than laying on the ground) the bolts are cut with an acetylene torch and the flange is separated. Any oxygen sensors present are detached and the original equipment exhaust is unhooked from any rubber hangers and removed from the undercarriage of the Tacoma. The system can be removed by dropping the inlet/muffler low and moving toward the front while wrangling the tailpipe over the rear axle. A simpler way is to cut the original system into pieces with the torch, but since its a stainless steel system, it requires a level of skill with the torch. The replacement involves attaching the inlet pipe or the muffler with the welded inlet (this usually depends on the overall length of the Tacoma measured at its wheelbase. The longer the wheelbase, the higher the probability of the inlet pipe being a separate component in the aftermarket world) to the catalytic converter with a gasket in between. The muffler is installed behind that (unless already attached to the inlet) with the tailpipe behind the muffler. The inlet pipe is the only flange connection and the other one(s) are connected with exhaust clamps. To finish, the oxygen sensor is restored into the new system.

The Converter and Front Pipe

The only other two components that comprise the remaining exhaust system are the catalytic converter and the front pipe. These are not commonly replaced as often as the muffler assembly. But at some point, as the Tacoma ages, these components will fail. The converter is flange-connected to the front pipe and to the inlet pipe of the muffler. The front pipe is flange-connected to the converter and then to the bottom of the manifold. Again, the presence of oxygen sensor(s) are dealt with. Overall, the exhaust system on the Tacoma is a fairly simple one. The front pipe is a dual chambered inlet from the manifold (with a three-bolt flange) that folds into a single double-walled chamber and attaches to the converter (with a two-bolt flange). The converter has a two-bolt flange on either side. New gaskets and new nuts and bolts are necessary to complete the replacement installation of either of these components.

The Oxygen Sensors

The oxygen sensors on the Toyota Tacoma are quite commonly the first introduction that a Tacoma driver encounters with his or her exhaust system. Unlike any other vehicle, Toyota trucks and SUVs often attach their oxygen sensors to the exhaust system with a small two-bolt flange and gasket. The portholes in the exhaust system has a manufactured inlet flange with two studs welded to it. The retaining nuts of the oxygen sensor deteriorate and allow the sensor to blow out of the porthole creating an exhaust leak. Re-tapping the studs and replacing the nuts are a common repair, but in some cases, the sensor itself needs to be replaced. The sensors are attached by a wire harness that is used to communicate to the computer of the vehicle. The sensors monitor the mixture of oxygen in the exhaust system and defer the information to the Powertrain control module (PCM) to make necessary adjustments. The wire harness of the oxygen sensor has a nearby outlet that simply can be unplugged for easy replacement. Some of the newer Tacomas require locating the downstream sensor (near the converter) to disassemble the floor molding of the passenger side door and reach under the carpet to the floorboard under the passenger seat to locate the plug.

To access a 2005 Toyota Camrys oil filter, lift or jack up the vehicle. The oil filter is located toward the front of the vehicle, next to the oil pan.

Safety Issues

Any time you are going to remove or replace an oil filter, wear safety glasses and gloves. Even if you wont be changing the oil itself, removing the filter involves possible contact with engine oil. Never attempt to remove an oil filter while the 2005 Camrys engine is running. Depending on the brand of filter, you may need an oil removal wrench.

Removal

Before removing the filter, place an oil drip pan directly beneath it. Slowly unscrew the filter to allow oil to drain out. Then unscrew the filter, but be careful of the oil within the filter. Dump this oil into the drip pan. Look at the filter and ensure the gasket is not stuck to the mounting base. With a clean shop towel, wipe the mounting base clean.

Replacement

Apply a film of clean engine oil to the new filters gasket, which helps create a seal between the gasket and the mounting base. Screw the new filter into place, but do not overtighten and potentially strip the mounting base.

Two Different Sizes

Before replacing the 2005 Camrys oil filter, ensure that you have bought the right size filter. A 2005 Camry with a four-cylinder engine requires a different size filter than a six-cylinder engine. There are no universal sizes for oil filters, and manufacturers feature different part numbers.