Monday, November 17, 2014
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2001 Grand Cherokee 6 Cylinder
The Grand Cherokee is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the Jeep division of Chrysler. The WJ versions of this vehicle include the 1999 to 2004 models and represent a complete redesign over the previous Grand Cherokee. The most common engine in the 2001 Grand Cherokee is a 6-cylinder, 4.0-liter engine. The replacement of the water pump on this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the water pump.
Instructions
- 1
Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.
2Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.
3Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.
4Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.
5Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.
6Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.
Saturday, May 3, 2014
How to Remove the Drive Shaft From a 2001 Infiniti I30
The drive shaft is the part of a vehicle that transfers power from the engine, via the transmission, to the drive wheels. On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential transfers the energy to a drive shaft that runs the length of the vehicle. On front-wheel-drive cars, like the 2001 Infiniti I30, the shaft is in two parts, one on each side of the vehicle, and runs side to side. Notice that the procedure differs slightly depending on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission.
Instructions
- 1
Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels and raise the car. Support the car with a jack stand on each side, remove the lug nuts and take off both wheels.
2Use a socket wrench with a long cheater bar attached to remove the wheel bearing locking nut.
3Use a socket wrench to remove the two nuts on the two lower strut mounting bolts, and remove the bolts.
4Remove the brake line from the strut by removing it from the attaching clip.
5Remove the right drive shaft first if the vehicle has an automatic transmission. Place a block of wood against the drive shaft where it protrudes from the hub and strike it lightly several times with a hammer to separate it from the knuckle. Do not do this without the block of wood in place. If the shaft uses to separate, you will need to use a tie rod puller to remove it. The puller fits over the drive shaft and separates the two parts as you tighten it.
6Pull the right drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the car has an automatic transmission, insert a tool such as a large screwdriver or punch into the hole where the right drive shaft fits and strike it with a hammer to separate the left drive shaft. You can then simply pull the left drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the Infiniti is equipped with a manual transmission, you will need to repeat the procedure described in Step 5 on the left side of the car as well.
Monday, February 17, 2014
How to Fix a Fried Radio in a 2001 Focus
A fried radio in a 2001 Ford Focus can create an eerie silence inside the vehicle, especially if youre used to playing your favorite songs as you cruise down the road. Unfortunately, Ford doesnt provide any technical service specifications or repair procedures for the radio unit itself; so if your radio is truly fried, youll need to remove it and replace it with a new or used radio. Used factory radios can easily be obtained from salvage yards for a fraction of the price of new radios. If you opt to replace your radio with a new factory unit, youll need to contact your local Ford dealership to obtain pricing information.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Turn off your engine, open the hood, and disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery, using a battery terminal wrench.
2Insert the radio locking tools into the holes on the front of the radio. Pull both tools gently back and forth to the left and right sides of the radio; this will release the locking hooks inside the radio.
3Remove the radio from the instrument panel and disconnect the radios electrical connectors. These connectors include the power cables, antenna cables and any optional equipment cables, such as a CD changer cable.
4Remove the special tools from the radio by depressing the locking hooks on the back of the radio, then slide each tool out of the holes on the front of the radio.
5Remove the radio completely from the vehicle.
Installation
- 6
Reattach the radios electrical cables and make sure they are snug and locked into place.
7Place the radio into the radio slot on the dashboard and press it into the dashboard. Listen for the locking hooks to engage. Make sure that the radio is flush with the dashboard and that it is fully-seated.
8Turn on the ignition and test the radio to ensure that it is working properly.
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
How to Replace the Oxygen Sensor on a 2001 Toyota Tundra
The oxygen sensor in your 2001 Toyota Tundra may one day go bad and need replacement. The oxygen (O2) sensor is responsible for regulating the oxygen and fuel ratio in your vehicle, contributing to the efficiency of gas usage. If the oxygen sensor goes bad, your Tundra may run poorly and get poor gas mileage. Knowing how to replace it yourself can save you money.
Instructions
Instructions
- 1
Locate the oxygen sensor on the pre-catalytic converter. This is located near the right-front wheel well of your Tundra.
2Detach the large air intake pipe that is connected to the air box going to the rear turbo. Also remove the two smaller air pipes connected to the air box running to the blow off. This will give you access to reach the sensor. Soak the oxygen sensor in penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) to loosen it for easier removal.
3Use the 7/8-inch wrench to remove the old oxygen sensor. Find the stock sensor wire near the engine lift loop by the firewall. Splice the stock sensor wire and connect it with the wires to the new oxygen sensor using crimp connectors.
4Apply some of the anti-seize paste to the threads of the new sensor. Be caul not to get any of the paste on the sensor itself or it will ruin it. This will make the oxygen sensor easier to remove the next time.
5Screw the new sensor in by hand. Fully tighten it with the wrench so it can not be loosened by hand. Reattach the air pipes again.
Sunday, December 8, 2013
How to Reset the Check Engine Light on a 2001 Grand Am
The 2001 Pontiac Grand Am is a compact car produced by General Motors. You can reset the "Check Engine" light on your 01 Pontiac Grand Am right from your home garage. This will save you a trip to the dealer or mechanic. With an OBD II code scanner you can complete this task in about 10 minutes. This computerized diagnostic tool can be purchased or borrowed from any auto parts store. Make sure to read the trouble codes with the code scanner first and have any necessary repairs made before resetting the computer and shutting off the "Check Engine" light.
Instructions
- 1
Plug the OBD II code scanner into the OBD II port just to the left of the steering column on the dashboard.
2Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Make sure you dont start the engine.
3Select the "Read Codes" or similar command on the code scanner. Then select "Delete Codes." Wait for the code scanner to return to the main menu.
4Unplug the code scanner from the port and start the engine. Make sure that the "Check Engine" light has shut off.
How to Install a Timing Belt on a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT
The Subaru Legacy is a mid-size family car in production since 1989. The third generation of this series includes models manufactured from 1998 to 2003. The base model of the 2001 Subaru Legacy is a sedan, and the GT trim level is a wagon. The standard engine for the 2001 Subaru Legacy GT is a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead cam shaft. The timing belt in this vehicle typically requires replacement after 60,000 miles.
Instructions
- 1
Remove any components necessary to access the timing belt on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench if your vehicle has manual transmission. Remove the timing belt guide from the engine block.
2Remove the center bolt for the idler pulley of the timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the idler pulley from the engine block, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys. Remove the mounting bolts for the tension adjuster of the timing belt, and detach the tension adjuster from the engine block.
3Hold the tension adjuster with a vertical press and press the adjuster rod to align the hole in the rod with the hole in the cylinder housing for the tension adjuster. Place a 2mm Allen wrench through the holes to hold the adjuster in place.
4Install the tension adjuster to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect the belt idler pulleys to the engine block, and torque the mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.
5Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump cover. Rotate the camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.
6Install the left part of the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, upper left idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket and lower left idler pulley in that order. Hold the lower left idler pulley in place. Continue installing the timing belt onto the lower right idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket in that order.
7Align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshafts if necessary. Pull the Allen wrench from the housing of the timing belt tension adjuster.
8Install the timing belt guide and fasten its mounting bolts by hand if your vehicle has manual transmission. Adjust the timing belt guide so there is 0.019 to 0.059 in. clearance between the guide and the timing belt. Tighten the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench.
9Replace any components you removed in step one to access the timing belt.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
How to Install a Clutch Slave Cylinder on a 2001 Ford Super Duty
Fords 2001 Super Duty truck with a manual transmission is equipped with a hydraulic clutch system that is similar in operation to the hydraulic brake system. Pressure on the foot-operated clutch pedal actuates the clutch master cylinder and pressurizes the fluid within the system. A hydraulic hose connects the slave cylinder on the transmission to the master cylinder. When pressurized, the slave cylinder disengages the clutch plates. Over time, the inner seals in the slave cylinder can become worn and cease to function properly. Replace the slave cylinder using basic hand tools.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Park the vehicle on level ground. Set the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels.
2Position the jack under the front lifting points on the vehicle. The two-wheel drive truck has a lifting lug located on the front side of the wheel support arm. Jack the four-wheel truck on the front axle close to the wheel. Be sure to position the jack in the notch near the front differential when lifting the driver side of four-wheel drive trucks. Support the vehicle on jack stands.
3Locate the slave cylinder on the front driver side of the transmission. Wipe dirt from the slave cylinder, hydraulic hose and surrounding areas with a clean rag to prevent contamination of the components. Place a catch pan under the clutch slave cylinder.
4Push in on the slave cylinder and rotate it counterclockwise to remove it from the transmission. Pull the hydraulic hose clip closest to the slave cylinder from the truck body.
5Drive out the roll pin on the slave cylinder hydraulic hose coupling, using a hammer and a 3/32 inch punch. Discard the roll pin.
6Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the slave cylinder. Remove the O-ring seal from the end of the hydraulic tube and discard.
Installation
- 7
Hold the new clutch slave cylinder over the catch pan. Position the slave cylinder so that the hydraulic connection port is higher than the pushrod. Fill the slave cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid.
8Install the new O-ring seal on the end of the hydraulic line and coat it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Insert the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder hydraulic port. Install a new roll pin using a hammer to secure the hydraulic line in the slave cylinder.
9Locate the clutch master cylinder reservoir next to the brake master cylinder on the drivers side of the engine compartment firewall.
10Wipe the clutch master cylinder cap with a clean rag to remove any grit or debris. Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid up to the Full line. Position the clutch hydraulic hose so that there are no high spots that may trap air bubbles during the bleeding process. Reroute the hose as necessary.
11Hold the slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod down and the hydraulic line lined up with the hydraulic line as straight as possible to the clutch master cylinder.
12Slowly push the pushrod into the slave cylinder until it bottoms out and then hold it for five to ten seconds. Release the pushrod slowly and allow the spring within the slave cylinder to extend the pushrod. Wait five to 10 seconds to allow the air bubbles to rise. Repeat this process until all of the air is bled from the system and the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.
13Insert the slave cylinder into the transmission housing. Push the slave cylinder in and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into position. Push the hydraulic line clip into position on the truck body.
14Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.
15Slowly depress and release the clutch pedal 25 times. Ensure that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.
16Check and top off the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Install the master cylinder cap.
17Remove the jack stands and lower the truck to the ground.
Sunday, October 27, 2013
How to Release the Hood on a 2001 Dodge Intrepid If the Cable Is Broken
Dealing with a broken hood latch cable can be extremely frustrating, especially if you need to access the engine compartment to jump start the vehicle, add fluids or perform a repair. The hood latch cable runs from the hood latch down the inside of the fender, and through the firewall to the hood latch release lever. In order to replace the cable, youll first need to gain access to the engine compartment. In this situation, you can manually actuate the hood latch mechanism from underneath the vehicle.
Instructions
- 1
Shut off the engine and pull the parking brake lever to engage the brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
2Raise the drivers side of the vehicle near the wheel with a jack, and then place a jack stand underneath the frame. Raise the passenger side of the vehicle near the wheel and place a jack stand underneath the frame. Check both stands to make sure they are secure.
3Move underneath the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and locate the hood latch with a work light. Its above the front radiator fans, on top of the radiator core support.
4Locate the hood latch cable where it terminates at the cable release lever. There is a small crimped steel ball on the end of the cable that threads through the cable release lever.
5Pry on the release lever with a large flat-head screwdriver in the direction of the cable to open the hood. This forces the lever toward the cable, the same way it would move if it was being pulled by the cable.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
How to Change the Radio in a 2001 Nissan Maxima
The radio unit in a 2001 Nissan Maxima sedan is located in the middle section of the dashboard, above the ash tray and climate controls. In order to remove and replace the radio, the center vents, shifter finisher, and various mounting screws must be removed. The most common problems associated with the factory radio are non-working buttons and faulty inner circuitry. Faulty inner circuitry can cause a number of problems such as erratic operation, intermittent power cycling, random volume levels, and an abundance of static feedback from the speakers.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Open the hood and remove the negative battery cable from the battery with a battery cable wrench.
2Insert a flat-head screwdriver in-between the center vent above the radio and the dashboard structure. Pry on one side of the vent to disengage the vents retaining clip. Hold the vent out with your hand to maintain the disengagement of the clip, and then pry the retaining clip loose on the other side. Disconnect the electrical switch connectors from the vent panel, and then remove the vent panel from the dashboard.
3Open the ash tray and remove the screw holding the lower console finisher in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Insert a flat-head screwdriver in-between the finisher and the center console structure and pry the finisher out of the center console structure. Disconnect any electrical connectors from panel including the ash tray lighter and hazard switch, then remove the lower console finisher.
4Remove the screws holding the radio/climate control section to the center console with a Phillips screwdriver and pull it out of the center console. Remove the screws holding the radio to the climate control section and separate the radio from the climate control section. Disconnect the radios electrical harness connector and radio antenna connector. Remove the radio from the vehicle.
Installation
- 5
Reconnect the radios electrical harness connector and radio antenna connector. Set the radio into position in the radio/climate control bracket and reinstall the screws holding the radio to the climate control section.
6Set the radio/climate control section back into the center console as an assembly and reinstall the radio/climate control sections retaining screws.
7Reconnect the lower console finishers electrical connectors, including the ash tray lighter switch and the hazard switch. Set the panel into place and press down until it locks into position. Reinstall the panel retaining screw inside the ash tray.
8Reconnect the electrical connectors on the vent panel and set the panel into position. Press the vent panel into the dashboard until it locks into place. Test the radio, climate controls, and vent panel buttons to ensure they operate properly.