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The Grand Cherokee is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the Jeep division of Chrysler. The WJ versions of this vehicle include the 1999 to 2004 models and represent a complete redesign over the previous Grand Cherokee. The most common engine in the 2001 Grand Cherokee is a 6-cylinder, 4.0-liter engine. The replacement of the water pump on this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the water pump.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.

6

Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.

2

Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.

3

Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

4

Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.

5

Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.

6

Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.

7

Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.

8

Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.

9

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

10

Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.

11

Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.

12

Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.

13

Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.

14

Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.

The Toyota 3S-FE engine is a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It was produced from 1986 to 2000. During that period, it was the engine that powered various Toyota vehicles, including Camry models for 1987 through 1992. The cylinder block in the 3S-FE engine is iron, and the cylinder head is an aluminum alloy. The removal of the cylinder head for this engine should require four to five hours for an experienced mechanic.

Instructions

1

Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the radiator drain. Allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug. Seal the container, and store it for later use.

2

Disconnect the throttle cable and its bracket from the throttle body with a socket wrench if your vehicle has an automatic transmission. For all vehicles, detach the accelerator cable and its bracket from the throttle body. Remove the actuator and its bracket from the cruise control if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the hose from the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Disconnect the alternator and oil pressure gauge from the engine. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench and raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands and disconnect the right front wheel assembly. Detach the splash shield from the right front wheel well.

4

Disconnect the lower cross member for the suspension with a socket wrench. Remove the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter and disconnect the distributor from the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector for the water temperature sender gauge and remove the sender gauge from the vehicle. Detach the switch connector for the cold start injector.

5

Disconnect the radiator hoses and emission control hoses from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the water bypass pipe and the exhaust gas recirculation valve from the engine. Disconnect the air hose for the throttle body and remove the throttle body. Remove the hoses from the power steering unit if your vehicle is so equipped.

6

Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench and discard the gasket. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the injectors and remove the injectors from the engine. Unscrew the spark plugs and remove them from the engine.

7

Disconnect the camshaft pulley and the No. 1 idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the spring from the timing belt tensioner and detach the No. 3 cover for the timing belt. Support the timing belt to prevent it from shifting on the crankshaft pulley.

8

Disconnect the grommets on the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Label the grommets to ensure you install them in their original positions. Remove both camshafts from the engine.

9

Remove the 10 mounting bolts on the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening them in three separate passes. Tap the cylinder head with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the engine block. Place the cylinder head on a clean work surface. Discard the old gasket for the cylinder head. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

Wheel cylinders generally come standard on rear drum brakes. Some of the older model cars and trucks have them. The wheel cylinder holds a small reservoir of brake fluid that comes from the master cylinder through a network of brake lines. By the force of pressure exerted on the brake fluid the wheel cylinder uses a piston to expand the brake shoes against the drum. Wheel cylinders can be rebuilt with a few parts and common tools. To know their inner components helps to understand how they function and what parts need periodic inspection.

Wheel Cylinder Body

The wheel cylinder body, usually cast from iron or steel, has a heavy thick construction that allows it to hold tremendous hydraulic pressure. Its hollow, smooth-bore design makes it almost a secondary reservoir in that it holds additional brake fluid supplied by the master cylinder. Resembling a regular D-sized battery in size and shape, wheel cylinders sit bolted at the top of the backing plate directly between the brake drum shoes.

Pistons

Two pistons sit inside the cylinder bore--one at each end. They have a flat surface on one side where they make contact with a cup and have a notched or recessed hole that holds a slotted brake shoe pin that slots into the brake shoe. Commonly made of aluminum for lightweight and antirust qualities, the piston receives pressure from the force of the brake pedal to expand and force the brake shoes open.

Cup Expander and Spring

A long galvanized spring sits inside the middle of the wheel cylinder bore. It has small caps welded to each end. The cap ends have convex surfaces that fit into the recessed part of the cup. When in normal mode the spring keeps pressure on the pistons to allow for instant expansion. Upon the application of force, brake fluid enters from the wheel cylinder body in between both cup expanders, allowing equal pressure to go in both directions.

Cups

The cups ride inside the wheel cylinder bore to make a perfect seal against the piston. The flat part of the cup sits directly against the piston. The recessed, or concave, part of the cup catches the force of the fluid, which drives it outward. Cups can wear or become split or brittle when the brake fluid quality deteriorates. Cups form a perfect hermetic seal and do not allow brake fluid to pass them.

Bleeder Valve

Bleeder valves, sometimes called bleeder screws, allow brake fluid to escape from the wheel cylinder or brake line. They mount on the backside of the wheel cylinder body and can be reached behind the backing plate. They screw in by the use of a tiny nut to open a small orifice. Turning them outward closes them off. Some designs of bleeder valves require a specialized wrench to reach them. Their small bore can be cleaned with a paper clip or wire.

End Boot

The end boot, or dust boot, connects to the end of the wheel cylinder. It holds the shoe pins in place, while covering the end of the wheel cylinder to guard against contaminants. A wheel cylinder leak will usually be seen at the boot end before anywhere else. They simply push on to a groove in the wheel cylinder body.

The battery in your 8-cylinder Cadillac is dead. A motoring Good Samaritan rolls up and offers you a jump start with his 4-cylinder Japanese import. What are the chances that the 4-cylinder car can start the Cadillac with 8-cylinders?

Background

Jump starting is not about cylinders; it is about power--power expressed in terms of voltage and the amount necessary to crank the engine of a disabled car.

Voltage and Power

A battery stores power as the engine runs and sends a trickle charge to the battery. The power to start a car is delivered by the stored power. If the 4-cylinder car battery is good, it will work.

Safe Jump Start

The jumper cables must be placed correctly for a safe jump start with both car engines off and emergency brakes set. Connect the red/+ cable to the red terminal of the dead battery. Connect the other end of that cable to the red terminal of the good battery. Connect one end of the black/- cable to the good battery. Connect the other end of this cable to a piece of unpainted metal in the engine compartment of the car with the dead battery. Do not connect it to the black battery terminal. Start the car with the good battery and rev the engine. Attempt to start the car with the dead battery. If it starts, remove the cables in the reverse order they were placed.

What Starts the Dead Engine?

Once the jumper cables are correctly in place, the 8-cylinder car is started using the voltage supplied by the engine of the 4-cylinder car. Once the 8-cylinder car is running smoothly and jumper cables are removed drive the car with the dead battery to recharge it. You may want to take it to a place where battery service is offered and have it checked.

Fords 2001 Super Duty truck with a manual transmission is equipped with a hydraulic clutch system that is similar in operation to the hydraulic brake system. Pressure on the foot-operated clutch pedal actuates the clutch master cylinder and pressurizes the fluid within the system. A hydraulic hose connects the slave cylinder on the transmission to the master cylinder. When pressurized, the slave cylinder disengages the clutch plates. Over time, the inner seals in the slave cylinder can become worn and cease to function properly. Replace the slave cylinder using basic hand tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the vehicle on level ground. Set the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels.

2

Position the jack under the front lifting points on the vehicle. The two-wheel drive truck has a lifting lug located on the front side of the wheel support arm. Jack the four-wheel truck on the front axle close to the wheel. Be sure to position the jack in the notch near the front differential when lifting the driver side of four-wheel drive trucks. Support the vehicle on jack stands.

3

Locate the slave cylinder on the front driver side of the transmission. Wipe dirt from the slave cylinder, hydraulic hose and surrounding areas with a clean rag to prevent contamination of the components. Place a catch pan under the clutch slave cylinder.

4

Push in on the slave cylinder and rotate it counterclockwise to remove it from the transmission. Pull the hydraulic hose clip closest to the slave cylinder from the truck body.

5

Drive out the roll pin on the slave cylinder hydraulic hose coupling, using a hammer and a 3/32 inch punch. Discard the roll pin.

6

Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the slave cylinder. Remove the O-ring seal from the end of the hydraulic tube and discard.

Installation

7

Hold the new clutch slave cylinder over the catch pan. Position the slave cylinder so that the hydraulic connection port is higher than the pushrod. Fill the slave cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid.

8

Install the new O-ring seal on the end of the hydraulic line and coat it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Insert the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder hydraulic port. Install a new roll pin using a hammer to secure the hydraulic line in the slave cylinder.

9

Locate the clutch master cylinder reservoir next to the brake master cylinder on the drivers side of the engine compartment firewall.

10

Wipe the clutch master cylinder cap with a clean rag to remove any grit or debris. Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid up to the Full line. Position the clutch hydraulic hose so that there are no high spots that may trap air bubbles during the bleeding process. Reroute the hose as necessary.

11

Hold the slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod down and the hydraulic line lined up with the hydraulic line as straight as possible to the clutch master cylinder.

12

Slowly push the pushrod into the slave cylinder until it bottoms out and then hold it for five to ten seconds. Release the pushrod slowly and allow the spring within the slave cylinder to extend the pushrod. Wait five to 10 seconds to allow the air bubbles to rise. Repeat this process until all of the air is bled from the system and the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.

13

Insert the slave cylinder into the transmission housing. Push the slave cylinder in and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into position. Push the hydraulic line clip into position on the truck body.

14

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

15

Slowly depress and release the clutch pedal 25 times. Ensure that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.

16

Check and top off the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Install the master cylinder cap.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the truck to the ground.

Lapping a cylinder head involves grinding the part so that the surface where it makes contact with the engine cylinder is even. Sometimes, cylinder heads warp due to the way in which they are tightened and the temperature of engine use. Left uncorrected, air and fuel can leak through the warps. Lapping fixes this problem and keeps the part working in proper order.

Instructions

Car Cylinder Head Lapping

1

Remove the cylinder head from the car engine. Clean the cylinder head using a rag and solvent. Remove any old carbon or grease on the head surface. Mix a lather of silicone carbide grit with a little bit of water. Stop mixing when it becomes a paste. Apply a lather of the grit by covering the mating surface of the cylinder head using your finger. The mating surface presses against the cylinder when the cylinder head is bolted to the engine.

2

Place the cylinder against the cylinder head, and begin to twist at a slow pace. Twist back and forth, so that the cylinder head surface grinds smoothly from multiple directions. Remove the cylinder after a few minutes of twisting.

3

Examine the cylinder head for any low spots or areas that you have not ground to a smooth surface. Continue the twisting until finished. Wash the cylinder and cylinder head with water to remove all the grit and grindings. Dry the parts off with a clean towel to avoid oxidation. Use the parts as necessary.

Motorcycle Cylinder Head Lapping

4

Disassemble the motorcycle or scooter cylinder head. Clean it with a rag and solvent, so that there is no leftover oil or carbon on the cylinder head.

5

Take a sheet of very fine grit sandpaper, and tape it to a two-by-two foot sheet of flat plastic board. Hold the cylinder head in one hand, and lay it flat on the sandpaper.

6

Begin slowly but firmly to move the cylinder head in a figure eight, circular motion across the sandpaper -- this motion facilitates even grinding. Move in a figure eight across the board, so that the head surface grinds clockwise and counterclockwise. Do not sand or lean in one direction only. Continue the figure eight motion until you have completed five figure eight motions or cycles.

7

Lift the cylinder head, and examine the surface that mates with the cylinder. Continue the figure eight grinding until the surface is completely sanded at every point with no low spots. Wash off the cylinder with water, and dry. Use as needed.

Car engines perform fast actions, such as the pistons moving within the cylinders, over many years of use. If the engine begins to fail, cylinder heads can be milled to bring the engine back into proper performance standards.

Function

Typically, milling engine cylinder heads is part of a larger repair called an engine rebuild. The lower portion of the engine block is detached, inspected and cleaned. The cylinder heads are then resurfaced to properly seat the pistons and rings within the cylinders body.

Expert Insight

Cars Direct estimates that a common four-cylinder engine rebuild can cost from $400 to $500, and as the amount of cylinders increases, so does the pricing. A six-cylinder vehicle costs about $500 to $600, and an eight-cylinder increases to between $600 and $700. Estimates are as of early 2011.

Considerations

The extent of damage to the cylinder heads can increase the cost of rebuilding. The more resurfacing that is needed requires extra labor hours to create the correct effect for a properly functioning vehicle.