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Head studs increase the holding power between the engine block and the engine head. This keeps an installed head gasket in place when under the stress of a high horsepower engine. A head stud looks similar to a bolt without the hex head. The coarser threads of the stud hold secure in the threaded holes of an engine block and the finer threads hold a nut to keep the head secure to the engine block. Improperly installing head studs will cause damage to the engine block and to the head, costing you a lot of money in replacement parts.

Instructions

1

Spray brake cleaner into a threaded engine block hole. Push the end of a pipe cleaner into the hole to clear it of debris. Pull the pipe cleaner from the hole. Rotate the pipe cleaner and push the other end in the hole. Repeat the process of spraying brake cleaner and cleaning the hole with pipe cleaners until the end of the cleaner pulls from the hole free of debris.

2

Thread a chaser tap in the cleaned hole. Run the tap to the bottom of the hole. Remove the tap. Spray brake cleaner in the hole. Push a wire brush in the hole. Pull it quickly from hole. Repeat the wire brush cleaning three to four times. Blow compressed air in the hole to remove remaining debris. Clean each threaded engine block hole as described.

3

Apply red threadlocking sealant on the larger coarse threads of the head studs.

4

Align the sealant coated threads of each head stud with a threaded engine block hole. Turn each bolt clockwise with the correctly sized wrench until the stud tightens in the hole and the bottom of the stud hex nut sits tight to the top of the engine block.

Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.

2

Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.

3

Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

4

Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.

5

Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.

6

Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.

7

Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.

8

Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.

9

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

10

Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.

11

Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.

12

Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.

13

Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.

14

Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.

The Toyota 3S-FE engine is a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It was produced from 1986 to 2000. During that period, it was the engine that powered various Toyota vehicles, including Camry models for 1987 through 1992. The cylinder block in the 3S-FE engine is iron, and the cylinder head is an aluminum alloy. The removal of the cylinder head for this engine should require four to five hours for an experienced mechanic.

Instructions

1

Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the radiator drain. Allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug. Seal the container, and store it for later use.

2

Disconnect the throttle cable and its bracket from the throttle body with a socket wrench if your vehicle has an automatic transmission. For all vehicles, detach the accelerator cable and its bracket from the throttle body. Remove the actuator and its bracket from the cruise control if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the hose from the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Disconnect the alternator and oil pressure gauge from the engine. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench and raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands and disconnect the right front wheel assembly. Detach the splash shield from the right front wheel well.

4

Disconnect the lower cross member for the suspension with a socket wrench. Remove the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter and disconnect the distributor from the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector for the water temperature sender gauge and remove the sender gauge from the vehicle. Detach the switch connector for the cold start injector.

5

Disconnect the radiator hoses and emission control hoses from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the water bypass pipe and the exhaust gas recirculation valve from the engine. Disconnect the air hose for the throttle body and remove the throttle body. Remove the hoses from the power steering unit if your vehicle is so equipped.

6

Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench and discard the gasket. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the injectors and remove the injectors from the engine. Unscrew the spark plugs and remove them from the engine.

7

Disconnect the camshaft pulley and the No. 1 idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the spring from the timing belt tensioner and detach the No. 3 cover for the timing belt. Support the timing belt to prevent it from shifting on the crankshaft pulley.

8

Disconnect the grommets on the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Label the grommets to ensure you install them in their original positions. Remove both camshafts from the engine.

9

Remove the 10 mounting bolts on the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening them in three separate passes. Tap the cylinder head with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the engine block. Place the cylinder head on a clean work surface. Discard the old gasket for the cylinder head. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

Head gasket failures can be caused by high mileage or simply an aging vehicle, but are often due to an overheated engine. Additional repairs may be needed after the inspection.

Vehicle Year

The cost of having your head gasket replaced on your 2.5L Dodge Dakota will be about the same whether your vehicle was one of the first 2.5L Dakotas (e.g., before 1990) or one of the last 2.5L Dakotas (around 2002, for example).

Parts

The parts needed to replace the head gasket may include coolant, engine oil, a gasket sealer, a head gasket set, an oil drain plug gasket and an oil filter. The cost of these parts in 2010, according to RepairPal, can range from $320 to $450.

Labor

The labor costs will probably total between $445 and $570 (as of 2010) depending on location.

Total Cost

The total cost of labor and parts to replace a head gasket on a 2.5L four-cylinder Dodge Dakota will probably be between $767 and $1,016. Additional repairs may be required and add to the overall cost of repairing the vehicle.

Head gaskets serve a major purpose, and without them, or with faulty ones, car engines would run terrible, if at all. These gaskets are specially engineered to withstand extreme heat and compression that is built up within the engine providing an air tight seal. Understanding how head gaskets work is important to proper car maintenance.

Identification

The head gasket is located between the engine block and the head. The head bolts on top of the engine block and the valve cover bolts on top of the head. The head gasket is made of metal and is a one-piece gasket.

Function

The gasket ensures that the compression the engine builds stays within the block and doesnt escape. The gasket also serves to keep any oil from leaking out of the engine, and it provides a separation of oil and coolant within the engine block.

Considerations

To determine if there is a head gasket leak, start the engine, and before it gets too hot, run a hand across the seam where the gasket is to "feel" if any pressure is coming out from the area. There should be zero pressure along the seam. Another way would be to check the coolant to see if it has an oily feel or brownish color to it. If the head gasket is leaking from inside the engine block, it will allow oil and coolant to mix together. Looking at the underside of the oil filler cap to see if it is a milky brownish color could also represent a coolant and oil mix. Another inspection would be to check for oil leaks along the gasket seam area. Degrease the area first, run the engine at a high rpm and inspect for leaks. A mechanic can also perform a test to determine any loss of compression through the gasket area.

Time Frame

There isnt a specific time frame involved regarding the life of a head gasket. The original factory gasket may last the life of the engine, or it may break down earlier. The quality of the gasket and driving habits are factors regarding the life of the gasket. Heavy accelerations, as used when racing for instance, creating extreme pressure within the engine, can weaken the gasket prematurely.

Warning

If the the mix of oil and coolant is discovered, replace the gasket right away. If there is no mix in fluids, but only a loss of compression, the gasket still needs to be replaced since as the leak increases, even more compression will be lost and most likely a mix of oil and coolant will also eventually occur.

Prevention/Solution

To replace the gasket, all other surrounding parts in the way must be removed. The mating surfaces for the gasket, which are the top of the engine block and the bottom of the head, must be cleaned thoroughly. Proper gasket sealer should be used and it is critical that the head bolts be torqued down evenly according to manufactures specifications.

The 2000 Dodge Intrepid headlight has removable bulbs to simplify the replacement process. If a headlight bulb burns out, you can replace the individual bulb instead of having to buy a costly headlight assembly. You can buy a 9005 high beam bulb or a 9006 low beam bulb from an auto parts retailer and change them at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Intrepid and secure it with the support rod. Remove the bolts securing the crossbar over the headlight assemblies using a socket and ratchet. Set the crossbar aside.

2

Disconnect the wiring harness from the bulb you need to change. The inside bulb is the high beam and the outer bulb is the low beam. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise. Pull straight back to remove the bulb socket from the car.

3

Pull the bulb out of the socket. Push the new bulb into the socket and insert it into the headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it. Push the electrical connection into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the other side. Set the crossbar in place and secure it with the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet.

5

Close the hood and test the lights.

Head bolts hold the cylinder head to the engine block while maintaining a strong leak-free head gasket seal. The head bolts must be able to withstand the strong forces exerted by the internal combustion process. Torquing down the head bolts at the correct specifications and in the correct sequence is extremely important; otherwise, the cylinder head can separate from the block and cause serious damage to the engine.

Instructions

1

Consult your engines service manual for the correct torque values for the head bolts. The service manual should also specify the correct sequence in which to torque the head bolts.

2

Inspect the head bolts, and ensure they are clean and undamaged. Bolts with damaged threads, misshapen bolts and worn bolts can reduce the clamping force needed to hold the cylinder head down, as well as cause the torque wrench to give false readings. Use new head bolts whenever possible. Do not reuse torque-to-yield bolts.

3

Apply a small amount of lubricant to the threads on the head bolts. You can use a variety of lubricants, including Teflon-, wax- and graphite-based lubricants. Do not use thread lubricants on torque-to-yield bolts.

4

Tighten the head bolts to the correct specification with a torque wrench. Torque the bolts in the correct sequence as specified in the service manual.

5

If the cylinder head requires retorquing, start the engine and let it run until it warms up to normal operating temperature, then turn it off. Retorque each bolt in the specified sequence to the required specification.

The CR-V is a compact crossover that has been manufactured by Honda since 1995. It is powered by a 2.4-liter gas engine that has an output of 160 horsepower and 160 foot-pounds of torque. A blown head gasket on the CR-V can cause serious damage to the engine by mixing the engine coolant with the engine oil. If you have basic auto repair knowledge and possess a few common shop tools, you can replace the gasket yourself.

Instructions

1

Position the new cylinder head gasket and dowel pins on the cylinder block. Always use a new gasket. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC) position. Align the top dead center (TDC) mark on the crankshaft sprocket with chalk or a marker on the cylinder block.

2

Install the cylinder head on the block. Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt. If the diameter is less than 0.42-inch, replace the cylinder head bolt. Apply engine oil to the bolt threads and under the bolt heads for all of the cylinder head bolts.

3

Tighten the cylinder head bolts 29 foot-pounds, using a beam-type torque wrench. If you use a preset-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not over-tighten the bolts. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and re-tighten it from the beginning. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90 degrees per step). If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90 degrees.

4

Install the rocker arm assembly. Connect the water bypass hose. Tighten the connecting pipe mounting bolt and brake booster vacuum line mounting bolts, and then install the harness holder on the bracket. Install the upper radiator hose and heater hose.

5

Connect the water bypass hose. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds. Install the cam chain. Attach the fuel feed hose. Adjust the valve clearance. Install the drive belt. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion. After installation, check that all tubes, hoses and connectors are installed correctly. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open. Inspect the idle speed. Check the engine for leaks.