For U Solution

Insert the flat tip of a tire iron into the crack between the hubcap and the wheel. Wiggle it until it penetrates 1/2-inch. Pry on the tire iron to pop the hubcap off the wheel.

Spray the wheel bolts liberally with spray lubricant. Coat the entire bolt and nut until the lubricant is dripping off. Wait one hour for the lubricant to penetrate.

Open the jaws of the locking pliers. Slip them over the lug nut. The handle of the pliers should be pointing horizontally to the left. Squeeze the handle. If the handle closes too easily, turn the bolt on the end of the locking pliers clockwise and close the jaws again. You should be able to just barely close the jaws on the rounded nut.

Press the handles of the pliers together with both hands. Using all of your weight, force the handles toward the ground. You should be turning the bolt counterclockwise.

Bounce your weight on the nut until it breaks loose. If it wont break loose, use a hammer to smack the end of the handles of the pliers until the lug nut breaks loose. Finish unscrewing the bolt with your fingers, or spin the bolt with the pliers if the bolt is stubborn.

Apply the rust remover, if needed, as directed on the container. After cleaning it off the bolt, use a stiff brush to thoroughly clean the bolt.

Paint the bolt with a thin coat of anti-seize compound.

Insert the bolt into the part and thread it as tightly as you can by hand. Use a socket wrench and ratchet to finish tightening the bolt.

Wipe the bolt head and the area around it with a clean cloth to remove dirt and excess anti-seize compound.

Spray the head of the bolt with corrosion protection compound.

Consult your engines service manual for the correct torque values for the head bolts. The service manual should also specify the correct sequence in which to torque the head bolts.

Inspect the head bolts, and ensure they are clean and undamaged. Bolts with damaged threads, misshapen bolts and worn bolts can reduce the clamping force needed to hold the cylinder head down, as well as cause the torque wrench to give false readings. Use new head bolts whenever possible. Do not reuse torque-to-yield bolts.

Apply a small amount of lubricant to the threads on the head bolts. You can use a variety of lubricants, including Teflon-, wax- and graphite-based lubricants. Do not use thread lubricants on torque-to-yield bolts.

Tighten the head bolts to the correct specification with a torque wrench. Torque the bolts in the correct sequence as specified in the service manual.

If the cylinder head requires retorquing, start the engine and let it run until it warms up to normal operating temperature, then turn it off. Retorque each bolt in the specified sequence to the required specification.

Add penetrating oil to the seized hardware and allow several hours for the oil to begin working before trying to loosen the nut. Several applications may be required before results are seen. If the bolt is small enough, submerging it in oil can be effective too.

Use an acetylene torch to heat the hardware before attempting to loosen it. This makes the metal expand and can break the bond between the nut and bolt caused by corrosion.

Use a nut splitter to break the nut off of the bolt. This tool uses a wrench to tighten a sharp blade against the side of the nut causing it to split.

Drill the bolt out, but only as a last resort. Mark the center of the bolt and starting with the smallest drill bit possible, make a hole. Use progressively larger bits until the bolt falls apart.

Place a wheel chock against the outside tread of one of the front tires.

Lift the rear axle with a jack from under the rear differential high enough to place jack stands under each side of the rear axle. Make sure to place the jack stands away from the lower shock mount/bracket to allow room to work.

Lower the jack onto the jack stands, but leave the jack in place for extra safety and balance support.

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the rear of the Cherokee with the remaining tools.

Remove the two upper nuts of one shock with the ratchet, extension and a socket. Remove and replace one shock at a time in order to avoid stress to the rear leaf springs. Do not worry if the bolt(s) breaks. Remove the other nut from the upper bolt/stud.

Hold the head of the lower shock bolt with a hand wrench, remove the nut with another hand wrench and then remove the shock.

Pound the upper (broken) bolts/studs through the frame with the hammer. If necessary, use the punch set to help punch the bolts through the frame with the hammer.

Place the nut back onto the lower bolt (if removing that bolt) until the nut is flush to the end of the bolt. Use the hammer to pound the bolt out of the axle shock shackle. The lower bolt is also a type of carriage stud bolt. However, rarely do these break and require replacement because they are much larger bolts.

Wrap a length of mechanics wire (around 15 inches or so) around the bottom threads of one of the replacement upper bolts. Replacement bolts do not have to be carriage studs type bolts. Thread the end of the wire through the frame and into one of the bolt holes and then pull the wire down through the hole until the bolt comes through. Repeat for the other bolt.

Replace the lower bolt (if applicable) through the lower axle shock shackle. Again, a standard bolt is all that is necessary; however, a replacement carriage bolt is also acceptable. The carriage bolt will be drawn into the shock shackle during the nut-tightening procedure.

Replace the shock by reversing the removal procedure. Hold the heads of the upper bolts in place with a hand wrench through the opening in the frame while tightening the nuts. Tighten the lower nut to draw the carriage bolt in place or just tighten the standard bolt and nut.