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In 2004, Chrysler informed the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration that it would recall certain Liberty model Jeeps equipped with 3.7-liter engines, citing problems with the two valve cover studs. In 2006, Chrysler recalled some two-wheel drive Liberty vehicles with 3.7-liter engines, because of issues with the left oxygen sensor wiring harness.

Significance

If affected Jeep owners dont repair the defects prompting the recall, the wiring harness issue could cause a fire under the hood. Liberty owners should contact the manufacturer or the NHTSA, supplying their Jeeps VIN number, to see if its been recalled.

Risks

In both recalls, the risk of fire stems from the chance that the alternator harness and/or the wiring harness could come into contact with a hot exhaust pipe, leading to potential personal injury and/or property damage.

Remedies

Dealers must add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route affected wiring harness to repair the alternator wiring harness issue. To repair the oxygen sensor wiring harness problem, dealers must secure the excess length of the wiring harness and fix any damage already done to the wiring.

Chrysler uses the Jeep marquee for its line of off-road and sport utility vehicles. The 1997 models include the Cherokee, Grand Cherokee and Wrangler. These vehicles use multi-port fuel injection, requiring the fuel pump to deliver highly-pressurized fuel. The fuel pump in a 1997 Jeep is located under the vehicle, requiring you to raise the vehicle to service the fuel pump. These fuel pumps are not user serviceable, so you must replace a malfunctioning fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. This will prevent the accidental discharge of fuel while you replace the fuel pump. Siphon fuel from the fuel tank into a gasoline container until the fuel tank is below 1/4 full.

2

Block the front wheels with chocks to prevent the accidental movement of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel sending unit.

3

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring from the field sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and brass punch. Remove the locking ring and detach the field sending unit from the vehicle. Remove and discard the O-ring on the fuel tank.

4

Remove the fuel filter from the fuel sending unit and discard it. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel pump. Release the clamp on the fuel line for the fuel pump and disconnect the fuel line. Remove the nut for the top mounting bracket of the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel sending unit.

5

Replace the fuel filter on the fuel pump and install the fuel pump into its top mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical wiring and fuel lines to the fuel pump. Place a new O-ring on the fuel tank.

6

Place the locking ring onto the fuel sender unit and turn it clockwise with the hammer and brass punch until it reaches to the stop on the fuel tank. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring for the fuel tank. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Jeep Wrangler first appeared in 1987 as a replacement for the CJ model Jeeps developed at the beginning of World War II. The Wrangler is a sport utility vehicle (SUV) available in two- or four-wheel-drive. The Wrangler is also offered with either a soft convertible top or a removable hardtop. The Wranglers stock exhaust headers may need to be removed for repair, replacement or to install aftermarket tubular headers.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto a set of automotive ramps and chock the rear wheels. Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool before getting under the vehicle.

2

Crawl under the vehicle and locate the exhaust manifolds bolted to each side of the engine block. Note the location of the exhaust pipe connections on each manifold. Spray penetrating fluid onto the upper exhaust retaining bolts that thread into the underside of the exhaust manifolds and allow it to soak in for several minutes. Loosen and remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet wrench and set them aside.

3

Open the hood and loosen the negative battery cable clamp with a wrench. Lift the cable straight off of the terminal and push it aside. Locate the oxygen sensor wiring harness on the upper side of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Press the release tab on the connector and pull it straight out of the oxygen sensor and set it aside.

4

Locate the retaining bolts on the inside of each of the black plastic front fender flares. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull each flare away from the front fender to create more working room to reach the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.

5

Label the spark plug wires with masking tape to show which cylinder they belong to. Grasp each plug wire from the base of the spark plugs and pull straight up to remove them to access the exhaust manifolds.

6

Unscrew the retaining bolts from the heat shield on the drivers side exhaust manifold with a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the engine bay and set it aside.

7

Remove the retaining bolts from the upper and lower mounting flanges on the drivers side exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Caully work the manifold out of the engine bay. Repeat for this for the passengers side manifold.

Removing the transmission oil pan from the bottom of the transmission in your Jeep Cherokee is the only way to access the filter inside or drain the oil from the transmission. The pan is located in the center of the transmission, directly on the bottom, ssecured with bolts around the perimeter. Removal can be messy if you are not caul. Work slowly and take it one step at a time.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Jeep off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front suspension, and remove the jack.

2

Slide under the center of your Jeep and locate the transmission oil pan on the bottom of the transmission. Place a large oil drain pan under the transmission pan to catch the oil when you remove it.

3

Loosen the bolts around three edges of the transmission pan with a socket and ratchet, but do not completely remove them. Slowly loosen the bolts on the remaining edge of the pan, allowing the opposite side of the pan to come away from the transmission. Drain the oil into the drain pan.

4

Remove all the bolts around the edge of the pan slowly, and then lower it away from the transmission. Leave the drip pan under the transmission for a while, allowing any oil or fluid to fully drain.

Removing the dash pad from the dash of your Jeep CJ-7 will allow you to replace a faded, cracked or worn pad with a new one. Pads fade and crack over time from exposure to the sun and elements. While new pads are hard to find, many aftermarket Jeep parts manufacturers carry replacement pads made to OE standards that will give the stock look and feel of the original pad. You may also find a used pad in a salvage yard, online or private sale if you spend some time looking.

Instructions

1

Locate the locking knob on the lower portion of the dash between the door frame and the end of the dash. Grasp the knob and rotate it counterclockwise, removing it from the dash.

2

Remove the locking knob on the other side of the Jeep using the same procedure. Fold the windshield and frame forward, allowing it to rest on the windshield supports on the hood of the Jeep.

3

Locate the large Phillips-head screws that run along the top of the dash pad. Remove them with a large Phillips screwdriver.

4

Locate the large Phillips-head screws along the bottom edge of the dash pad and remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Grasp the pad and pull it up and off the steel dash of your CJ-7. Remove it from the Jeep.

The Jeep Liberty is a compact sport utility vehicle that Chrysler has manufactured under its Jeep marque since 2002. The Liberty CRD models were available for 2005 and 2006, and have a four-cylinder 2.8-liter turbo diesel engine that uses a common rail fuel injection system. The timing belt synchronizes the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt in a Jeep Liberty CRD requires replacement at regular intervals, usually at least 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly. Detach the accessory drive belt and remove the vibration damper from the engine.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring the witness line on the hub of the crankshaft to the 12 o-clock position. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90 degrees to move the witness line to the 3 o-clock position. Disconnect the alternator with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the intake and exhaust camshaft plugs from the cover of the camshaft with a socket wrench to expose the alignment pins. Remove the outer cover for the timing belt. Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to loosen the timing belt and detach the timing belt. Remove the alignment pins from the crankshaft and loosen the camshaft gears with special tool VM 1085.

4

Install the alignment pins for the camshaft temporarily while you install the timing belt. Turn the gear for the fuel injection pump clockwise to align the timing mark on the gear with the timing mark on the inner cover of the timing belt.

5

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft hub. Place the timing belt onto the fuel injection pump gear, left idler pulley, intake camshaft gear, exhaust camshaft gear, right idler pulley, and water pump gear in that order.

6

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to align the center notch on the tensioner with the dowel pin on the aluminum cover. Tighten the retaining bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Place special tool VM 1085 between the camshaft gears. Tighten the thumb screws to hold the camshaft gears in place, and tighten the bolts for the camshaft gears to 80 ft. lbs. Remove special tool VM 1085 and the alignment pins from the camshaft.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to bring the witness mark on the crankshaft hub to the 3 o-clock position. Replace the outer cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Connect the camshaft plugs, vibration damper, alternator and cooling fan assembly. Attach the accessory drive belt and replace the engine cover. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Ignition timing is vital to optimum engine performance. Over-advanced ignition timing causes premature ignition. Premature ignition is also known as "ping" or "spark knock" and can damage internal engine components. Pistons may become pitted or fractured by premature ignition. Retarded timing will pollute the engine crankcase with wasted fuel and may over-heat the engine. Fuel economy suffers in either instance and engine longevity is diminished. Timing lights provide an accurate indication allowing precise adjustment.

Instructions

Timing Checks and Adjustments

1

Park the Jeep on level ground. Place it in park if it has an automatic transmission or neutral if it has a manual transmissions. Set the parking brake and block the wheels from movement with chocks or similar devices. Open the hood and attach the timing light leads, or wires according to the light manufacturers instructions. Consult the emission control information label for specifications. It is affixed to the firewall on the passenger side. Attempt no adjustment if none is recommended.

2

Highlight the timing mark on the crank pulley with white chalk. Locate and clean the numbered scale attached to the engine timing cover, just above the crank pulley. Make any disconnections specified on the emission control information label and start the engine. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and normal idle speed.

3

Assure idle speed is in range of specifications before adjusting ignition timing. Aim the timing light at the scale above the crank pulley, taking care to avoid moving parts.The crank pulley mark will appear stationary due to the stroboscopic effect created by the timing light. Observe the pulleys mark position on the scale and compare it to the value specified on the emission control information label. No adjustment is necessary if the mark and specification match.

4

Make any needed adjustment by slightly loosening the distributor hold-down screw. Turn the distributor until the crank pulley mark aligns with the scales specified position. Use the timing light to observe position adjustment. Tighten the hold-down screw and turn off the engine. Restore any connections and remove the timing light. Test-drive the Jeep to evaluate any changes made.

Each Jeep vehicle has a unique vehicle identification number, or VIN, that describes details such as the type of restraint system and model year. VINs consist of 17 letters and numbers and are useful if you need to order parts or get an insurance quote. You can use a decoding template to learn what each character means.

Instructions

1

The first three characters represent the World Manufacture Identification, or WMI. For Jeeps, the first character is "1" for "United States," the second is "J" for "Jeep" and the third could be a letter or number indicating the type of vehicle. This third character will vary based on the type of Jeep.

2

Character four represent the gross vehicle weight for some Jeeps and the engine type for others. Look at the Jeep Fan website to verify what applies to your specific vehicle.

3

View characters five and six to find out the car line series. For instance, character five could be "J" for Cherokee four-wheel drive and character six could be "2" for "Base."

4

Character seven represents the body style such as "7" for "two-door sport utility."

5

Check character eight to find out the engine type for newer model Jeeps or trim package type for older Jeeps. Use the Jeep Fan website as a cross reference.

6

Jeep assigns character nine as a check character to verify the authenticity of the VIN.

7

Characters 10 and 11 identify the model year and assembly plant, respectively.

8

Characters 12 through 17 represent the production sequence number.

Daimler Chrysler Corporation issued a safety recall for the Jeep Patriot in May, 2007. The recall was to fix a problem in the rear disc-brakes, which did not meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard requirements. Technicians discovered the hub mounting bolts that secure the rear wheel could affect use of the parking brake.

Recall Remedy

Car dealerships handling the 2007 Jeep Patriot were authorized to replace the mounting bolts on the rear wheels. Mechanics inspected the parking brake and made necessary repairs. The cost was born by Daimler Chrysler.

What Might Have Happened

Failure address the brake problem raised the danger of unintended vehicle movement leading to a crash while the car was driven. Patriot drivers encountering this problem were advised to let off the gas and shift the car into neutral gear. Drivers were asked to let the vehicle coast to a stop or as near as possible before applying the brakes, according to Cody Larson, a certified service technician at Dale Auto Body & Repair in Aurora, South Dakota.

Buying a Used 2007 Jeep Patriot

The recall was made in May of 2007, not too long after the Patriot was put on the market. Dealers with 2007 Jeep Patriots on their lots were required to complete the recall repairs before selling the vehicle.

When a 2007 Jeep Patriot is traded in, it is the responsibility of the dealer taking possession of the vehicle to verify recall repairs were made. It never hurts a potential buyer to ask the seller if recall repairs were made, or have the repairs verified by a certified mechanic.

The fog lights on your 1998 Jeep Wrangler are not merely an aesthetic addition to your vehicle; the lights serve to provide additional visibility in low-light, humid and foggy weather conditions. Your fog light bulb needs to be replaced if it is dim, flickers or has ceased to work completely. You can replace the fog light bulb, and maintain the safety of your Jeep, using a simple Philips screwdriver.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery terminal cable from the Jeep Wranglers battery.

2

Disconnect the electrical plug that connects to the back of the fog light bulb by pinching the release tab and pulling back on the plug.

3

Turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it from the fog light housing assembly. Remove the bulb carefully to avoid breaking it inside of the fog light.

4

Insert the new fog light bulb and gently turn it clockwise until it does not turn anymore. Connect the power plug to the back of the bulb, pushing in until the tab on the connector snaps into place.

5

Reconnect the negative battery terminal cable.

6

Turn on the vehicles lights to verify the fog light works.

If the front bumper on your Jeep Wrangler is damaged or you want to replace it with an aftermarket item, you can do it yourself using basic tools. The front bumper mounts directly to the frame. Over time, the stock metal bumper will start to rust. Stock bumpers may be purchased from a Jeep dealer. There are also aftermarket companies that produce and sell bumpers to the public through websites and auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Remove the plastic Jeep cover with a Phillips screwdriver. Retain the screws for re-installation. The plastic cover is located on the 1997 and newer models. If your Jeep is an older model continue to step two.

2

Locate the mounting bolts on the bumper. There are four mounting bolts, two on each frame rail.

3

Spray the bolts with penetrating fluid to ease the removal process.

4

Remove the bolts with a ratchet and socket. Remove the bumper from the frame rails.

5

Place the new bumper onto the frame rails. Line the bumper up with the stock mounting holes.

6

Install the bolts through the bumper and the frame rails. Place the lock washers onto the ends of the bolt and thread the nuts onto the bolt. Tighten each bolt using a ratchet and socket.

7

Replace the plastic Jeep cover over the bumper and tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

Replacing the crank position sensor on your Jeep may become necessary if the Jeep is starting hard, stalling frequently or just wont start at all. The crank position sensor is responsible for reporting the speed and position of the crank shaft to the engine management computer and if it is not working, the computer can not adjust the spark, fuel map or other parameters, and the engine will not run properly.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Jeep with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle to support it. Lower the jack, allowing the Jeep to rest solidly on the jack stands.

2

Locate the crank position sensor in the bell housing of the Jeep from under the drivers side. Locate and remove the two retaining bolts that secure the sensor to the bell housing, using a socket and ratchet.

3

Follow the wire from the sensor to the connector on the engine. Release the lock on the connector and separate the sensor wiring harness from the engine wiring harness. Remove the sensor and harness from the Jeep and discard it.

4

Position the new sensor on the bell housing and install the two retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet until they are snug. Do not over-tighten these bolts or you will strip the threads out of the aluminum bell housing.

5

Route the wiring harness from the sensor to the engine wiring harness and push the two connectors together until the locking tab snaps in place. Be sure to route the wiring harness away from sharp edges or heat sources.

6

Raise the front of the Jeep off the jack stands with a jack then remove the stands from under the truck. Lower the jack and test the repair by starting the truck and verifying that it runs properly.

Removing the steel cooling lines from the radiator to the transmission on your 1989 Jeep Cherokee may be necessary if the line cracks or other damage is detected on the line or fitting. The line runs from the passengers side of the radiator on the Jeep to the passengers side of the transmission and carries transmission fluid from the transmission to the radiator for cooling before returning the fluid to the transmission. A defective or leaking line will cause fluid level drop in the transmission, damaging the internal components or parts.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Jeep with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front axle to support it. Lower the jack, allowing the Jeep to settle onto the jack stands.

2

Slide under the passengers side of the Jeep and locate the cooling line at the radiator. Place an oil drip pan on the ground below the line at the transmission and at the radiator then use a wrench to turn the fitting on the line counterclockwise to loosen it.

3

Slide the fitting out of the radiator and down the line. Follow the line from the radiator to the transmission. Loosen the fitting where it enters the transmission with a wrench then pull the line out of the transmission.

4

Slide the line back from the transmission and drop it out from under the Jeep. Slide it out from under the Jeep and discard it.

The Jeep Cherokee has three bolts holding its rear shocks in place. Two small upper bolts/studs and nuts secure the top of the shock to the frame of the vehicle. One large shock bolt and nut attaches the bottom to the rear axle. Because the upper bolts/studs are small and depending on the age of the Cherokee when removing the shock, its not at all uncommon to snap the top bolts/studs. This repair task is easier than it may seem.

Instructions

1

Place a wheel chock against the outside tread of one of the front tires.

2

Lift the rear axle with a jack from under the rear differential high enough to place jack stands under each side of the rear axle. Make sure to place the jack stands away from the lower shock mount/bracket to allow room to work.

3

Lower the jack onto the jack stands, but leave the jack in place for extra safety and balance support.

4

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the rear of the Cherokee with the remaining tools.

5

Remove the two upper nuts of one shock with the ratchet, extension and a socket. Remove and replace one shock at a time in order to avoid stress to the rear leaf springs. Do not worry if the bolt(s) breaks. Remove the other nut from the upper bolt/stud.

6

Hold the head of the lower shock bolt with a hand wrench, remove the nut with another hand wrench and then remove the shock.

7

Pound the upper (broken) bolts/studs through the frame with the hammer. If necessary, use the punch set to help punch the bolts through the frame with the hammer.

8

Place the nut back onto the lower bolt (if removing that bolt) until the nut is flush to the end of the bolt. Use the hammer to pound the bolt out of the axle shock shackle. The lower bolt is also a type of carriage stud bolt. However, rarely do these break and require replacement because they are much larger bolts.

9

Wrap a length of mechanics wire (around 15 inches or so) around the bottom threads of one of the replacement upper bolts. Replacement bolts do not have to be carriage studs type bolts. Thread the end of the wire through the frame and into one of the bolt holes and then pull the wire down through the hole until the bolt comes through. Repeat for the other bolt.

10

Replace the lower bolt (if applicable) through the lower axle shock shackle. Again, a standard bolt is all that is necessary; however, a replacement carriage bolt is also acceptable. The carriage bolt will be drawn into the shock shackle during the nut-tightening procedure.

11

Replace the shock by reversing the removal procedure. Hold the heads of the upper bolts in place with a hand wrench through the opening in the frame while tightening the nuts. Tighten the lower nut to draw the carriage bolt in place or just tighten the standard bolt and nut.

Restoring a Jeep Wrangler is a proposition that should not be taken lightly. This will require body work and searching through junkyards to locate the proper parts. If you do not have an engine that is running properly you will want to consider having one installed by a professional. Barring tough mechanical issues, the body work and seat replacements can be done by a Jeep enthusiast with the proper tools.

Instructions

Replacing Seats

1

Examine all of the seats. They are anchored into the floorboard by 10 to 12 screws depending on the year of the Jeep Wrangler. The back seat is anchored in a similar way.

2

Remove the bolts. After all of the bolts are removed, you can lift the seat out. You may have to use either the wrench or the ratchet depending on access to the bolt.

3

Place the new seat in and tighten the bolts down. It is best to tighten down a bolt on each side and continue alternating them as you attach them.

Body Repair

4

Examine the rust area. If it is a hole, all of the rusted metal needs to be cut away. Use the hammer to force all of the remaining good metal inward. It only needs to go in about a 1/4 of an inch. It will bend over easily. If there is no hole, grind down to the bare metal.

5

Grind away the paint about three inches from the hole. You only want to go down to the metal. Feather the paint and metal by using the sandpaper. make sure that it is wet. This will give it a clean line.

6

Measure the size of the gap. Draw a pattern on the section of fiberglass and cut. Make sure the pattern is 3 inches larger than the hole. Do the same thing with the next two sheets of fiberglass reducing the size by one inch.

7

Lay the largest section of fiberglass down on a flat surface. Coat with the hardener and then place the middle sized sheet down and coat with the hardener. Make sure that you remove all the air bubbles. Place the final sheet of fiberglass down and coat with the hardener. Place the release sheet over this whole section and remove all the air bubbles with a roller or your hand. Place the release sheet on top of the last layer. It needs to be cut three inches larger than the original sheet in the layers.

8

Move the fiberglass section over to the hole and place over the whole. Make sure that it is smooth. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Pull a corner of the release sheet up and gently remove it from the fiber glass.

9

Mix the body putty and hardener on a piece of wood or cardboard. Apply to the edges of the fiberglass with the spreader. It needs to be about 1/4 of an inch thick. Allow about an hour to dry. Sand this down with the sandpaper and feather it to the metal body until it is smooth. You may have to use the body file to remove the ridges. Mix another batch of putty and hardener and apply in a thin layer over the fiberglass. Allow to dry and sand until smooth. Be gentle, because you do not want to damage the fiberglass. Feather to the edges for a smooth finish.

10

Prime the newly finished area with the primer.