For U Solution

Chrysler Corporation began designs for a minivan in the 1970s. The Dodge Caravan debuted in 1984 along side its sister vehicles, the Chrysler Town & Country and the Plymouth Voyager. The 1997 Dodge Caravan was produced in eight different sub-model packages. The turn signal bulb on the 1997 Caravans are all located, accessed and replaced in the same manner, regardless of the sub-model designation. Removal and replacement of the bulbs requires some mechanical skills. Replacement of the 1997 Caravan turn signal bulbs should take about one hour, depending upon individual skills.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Caravan. Visually inspect and locate the two headlamp mounting bolts at the top rear of the headlamp assembly. Remove the headlamp mounting bolts, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket with a 6-inch extension -- the addition of an extension between the ratchet and socket will allow you to turn the ratchet completely around while you simply hold the extension and socket in place.

2

Pull the headlamp assembly forward and rest the assembly on the front bumper of the Caravan. Reach behind the assembly to access the outermost bulb socket assembly. Remove the bulb socket from the bulb by prying up the small tabs with your fingers or with a small flat-head screwdriver. Rotate the bulb locking cap on the back of the headlamp assembly counterclockwise in relation to its position. Slide the cap back and off the turn signal bulb. Pull the turn signal bulb out of the headlamp assembly and discard it into a trash receptacle.

3

Grab a new turn signal bulb from its packaging, using a paper towel or napkin between your fingers and the bulb. Never touch a turn signal bulb directly with your fingers, as the oil from your fingers can cause the bulb to burn out prematurely; the turn signal bulbs also act as running lights on the Caravan, so they heat up similar to headlamps. Insert the new bulb into the rear of the headlamp assembly.

4

Install the locking cap over the light bulb and turn it clockwise until it is snug on the rear of the headlamp. Plug the bulb socket into the new light bulb. Reinstall the headlamp assembly back into position on the Caravan. Install the mounting bolts downward through the assembly and begin threading them, by hand, to assure correct threading of the bolts. Tighten the bolts with your 3/8-ratchet, socket and extension assembly until the bolts are snug. Turn the ratchet 1/4-turn farther to secure the headlamp bolts. No torque is needed for the headlamp mounting bolts.

5

Repeat the processes in Step 1 through Step 4 to complete the turn signal bulb replacement on the second side of the Caravan. Turn the key to the accessories or "II" position in the ignition of the Caravan after you have completely installed both turn signal bulbs. Turn the left turn signal on and visually inspect its correct operation by either stepping out of the vehicle or checking the bulbs flash lecting off another surface. Turn the right hand turn signal on and inspect its correct operation in a similar fashion. Lower the hood after the operation inspection is completed.

According to Kelly Perry an automotive technician with ONB Automotive in Everette, Washington, the popularity of the Ford Tempo was largely due to its reasonable asking price. Sold from 1984 to1994, this mid-sized vehicle was a perfect fit for many consumers. "The Tempo was an economy car with a lower price tag and worked well for someone on a budget, as a first time car or even a commuter vehicle," said Perry.

Options

In 1992 the Ford Tempo had two engine options, the 2.3 HSC inline 4 cylinder and the 3.0 V6. Both took regular gas. The alignment specs are the same for both engine options. The Ford Tempo offered 2 transmissions types: the three-speed automatic or the five-speed manual with overdrive capabilities.

The 1992 Tempo came in either the two-door or four-door sedan styles.

Front Alignment Specifications

Front caster range is +1.69 - +3.19 degrees with a desired +2.44. Left camber range is +.66 - +2.16 degrees with a desired of 1.41. Right camber range is +.22 - +1.72 degrees with a desired of +.97. Toe out is .100" of an inch.

Rear Alignment Specifications

Left and right side camber range is -.91 - +.59 with a desired of -.16. Toe setting is 0" of an inch. There is no caster adjustment on the rear.

From 1973 until 2000 all Harley-Davidson models used tapered Timkin wheel bearings on both the front and rear wheels. Since 2000 all Harleys have used sealed wheel bearings on both wheels. The current wheel bearings go on and come off as a unit with a bearing puller/installation tool. End play on the sealed bearings is pre-set. Only 1999 and earlier Harleys require that wheel bearing end play be set during installation and servicing. Sealed wheel bearing kits are available for older bikes. The sealed bearings should last 100,000 miles and the old bearings must be serviced every 10,000 miles. But it is a matter of debate as to whether the old bearings are superior to the new ones.

Instructions

1

Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

2

Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

3

Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than 0.18 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

4

Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thicknesses, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

5

Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

6

Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with lithium grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and 018 inches.

The Cirrus replaced the the LeBaron as Chryslers entry-level, four-door, mid-sized luxury sedan in 1995. It was part of the JA platform, along with the Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze. Chrysler erred to the cars collectively as the "cloud cars" because their names came from meteorological terms. The Sebring replaced the Cirrus in 2001 in the United States, but car continues to be produced in Mexico.

General Alignment Information for 2000 Chrysler Cirrus

The 2000 Chrysler Cirrus was available in LX and LXi trims. The front-end alignment specs are the same for both trims. The caster, camber and toe are the three most important alignment aspects in most vehicles. The caster angle is not adjustable on the front end of the 2000 Cirrus but should be set at +3.3 degrees. If the caster angle is off, it could be indicative of bent or damaged parts that require more extensive repairs. Always consult an owners manual or a certified mechanic before attempting to make any automotive repairs.

Camber Specs for the Front Wheels

Camber is the measurement, in degrees, of how a tire leans or tilts. If the top of a tire leans away from the center of the car, it has a positive camber. If the top of a tire leans toward the center of the car, it has a negative camber.

The limits of the camber angle for the front wheel of the 2000 Chrysler Cirrus are -.6 to +.6 degrees, with the ideal setting being zero degrees.

Toe-in Specs for the Front Wheels

The front wheels of most cars are angled slightly toward one another to help take weight off of the bearings. The toe-in is the difference in the measurements between the fronts of the tires and the backs of the tires. In other words, the toe-in is derived from measuring the space between the fronts of the two front tires and the backs of the two front tires and then subtracting the former from the latter.

The toe-in on the front end of the 2000 Chrysler cirrus can range from zero to +.5 inches, with the ideal being +.1.

Faulty front hub bearings can cause a number of symptoms, such as grinding, whirring, humming, shaking and excessive vibrations. These symptoms are usually most audible when turning a corner. The excess heat, friction and weight from the vehicle components cause the bearings to degrade slowly over time, causing an increase in play and looseness in the bearing unit. Because the front hub bearing bearings sustain the weight of the engine and transmission, their condition can worsen quickly creating a serious safety concern.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and lower it down onto two jack stands. Check to make sure that the vehicle is firmly supported. Place two wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and set the parking brake.

2

Rotate the tire in both directions and listen for any grinding or roughness. A faulty bearing will sound rough and feel gritty while youre turning the tire. The tire should spin freely and smoothly; if it rattles or grinds while spinning then the wheel bearing is faulty.

3

Grip the wheel with two hands, one on top of the wheel and one on the bottom. Rock the tire in and out while feeling for looseness. The tire should be firm and fixed in place; you should not be able to wiggle it all. Any slop or looseness from top-to-bottom indicates a bad wheel bearing.

4

Lower the vehicle back to the ground and remove the wheel chocks. Drive to an empty street or highway for testing.

5

Accelerate to 40 MPH and make an abrupt lane change to the left while listening for bearing noise. Accelerate back to 40 MPH and make an abrupt lane change to the right while listening for bearing noise. If the bearing noise increases when turning to the left, then the right side hub bearing is faulty. If the bearing noise increases when turning to the right, then the left side hub bearing is faulty. This is because turning to one side increase the load on the bearing of the opposite side when the weight transfers, exaggerating the bearing symptoms.

The front shocks on your 1999 Dodge Dakota should be replaced every 50,000 miles. The shocks attach to the axle and the frame of the vehicle. They are designed to dampen the bumps in the road to provide a smooth ride. Worn shocks can cause poor handling and increased tire wear. The front shocks for your Dodge Dakota can be purchased at auto parts stores and installed yourself with simple tools.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts off of each front tire with a tire iron wrench.

2

Place a hydraulic jack under the axle near the tire. Lift the vehicle enough so the tire can be removed. Place a jack stand under the axle and lower the axle with the jack onto the jack stand. Repeat this step to the opposite end of the axle.

3

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tires from the axle.

4

Locate the mounting bolts that secure the shocks to the vehicle. Lubricate these bolts by spraying penetrating fluid onto them. Allow the fluid to lubricate the bolts for 10 minutes.

5

Loosen and remove the bolts with a ratchet and socket. Remove the shock from the vehicle.

6

Place the replacement shock into the brackets. Use the stock hardware to fasten the shock into position. Tighten the bolts with a ratchet and socket.

7

Repeat steps 4 through 6 for shocks on the opposite side of the vehicle.

8

Reinstall the tires and the lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron wrench. Lift the vehicle and remove the jack stands before lowering it to the ground with the jack.

The Suzuki SV650S is an extremely popular motorcycle and many do-it-yourself owners are interested in servicing their own bikes. As such, it sometimes is necessary to remove the front wheel and axle. This can be an easy undertaking with the right tools.

Removing Brake Caliper

The first step to removing the front axle is first to remove the brake caliper. This requires a metric socket set kit, in particular a 14-mm socket.

Axle Pinch Bolt

To loosen the axle pinch bolt on the front fork leg, a 12-mm metric socket is required. Once the pinch bolt is loosened, you can proceed to removing the axle.

Front Axle Removal

To remove the front axle, one first must loosen the front axle with a special tool (Suzuki code 0990Q-18710). This tool also is known as a hexagon bit 12-mm drive. After loosening, the wheel can be lifted off the ground and the front axle removed completely. A motorcycle jack, lift, stand or other device will be required to lift the motorcycle up off the front wheel.

The 2005 Ford F150 4X4 features four-corner shock suspension. Some higher end models of the F150 manufactured between 2004 to 2008 use a strut assembly in the front, but still use shocks in the rear. The difference between shocks and struts is that the shock is a separate component from the coil spring.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the 2005 Ford F150 4X4.

2

Access the top of the shock absorber through the front wheel wells. If necessary, start the truck and turn the steering wheel to manipulate the tires for better access to the respective shocks.

3

Place a box end wrench on the upper shock retaining nut. Hold the stem shaft of the shock with a smaller box-end wrench.

4

Hold the stem shaft stationary and turn the upper shock retaining nut counterclockwise. Once the nut has broken free, flip the wrench on the retaining nut over to the open-end side to make the removal of the nut easier. Remove the nut, upper washer and rubber bushing from the stem shaft.

5

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the other front shock.

6

Hoist the front of the F150 up with a jack and support the front axle on jack stands.

7

Hold the lower shock bolt head with a wench while turning the nut on the other side of the bolt counterclockwise with another wrench. If necessary, place the nut back onto the bolt and tap it with a hammer to loosen it up. Remove the bolt and the shock absorber. Repeat for the other front shock.

8

Place the lower washers and rubber bushings on the stem shaft of the replacement shocks.

9

Insert the shock up through the coil spring and align the stem shaft with the upper shock mounting bracket. Hold the shock in place while replacing the lower shock bolt. Compress the shock if necessary so the bottom of the shock will align with the lower shock mounting bracket and the lower bolt hole. Tighten the lower bolt and nut with a wrench and a torque wrench set at 75 foot-pounds.

10

Lower the front axle of the truck back to the ground, using the jack to lift it. Remove the jack stands.

11

Place the upper rubber bushings and upper washers on the stem shaft of each shock. Again, hold the stem shaft stationary with a wrench while tightening up the shock retaining nut with another. Tighten the nut until the washer compresses the upper rubber bushing.

Chrysler manufactures several lines of automobiles, such as the 300, the PT Cruiser and the Town & Country. Each vehicle comes with unique alignment specs, and the alignment specs can vary from year to year or trim to trim on a given vehicle. Before aligning a vehicles wheels, it is important get the specs for the specific model, year and trim rather than simply the make. The specs below are for the front ends only. The alignment may differ on the rear end of a vehicle.

All-Wheel-DriveTrims of the 2010 300 and 300C

The caster angle should be set at +4.5 degrees on the front left wheel and +5.1 degrees on the front right wheel, with one degree of variance for either wheel. The camber should be set at +0.15 on the left front wheel and -0.25 on the right front wheel, with +0.65 degrees of variance for either wheel. The toe-in can range from +0.1 degree to +0.3 degrees, but the ideal setting is +0.2 degrees.

All Trims of the 2010 PT Cruiser

The caster on the front wheels should be set at +2.45 degrees, with a variance of one degree. The camber should be set at zero, with a variance of 0.4 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +0.1 degree, with a variance of 0.1 degree.

All Trims of the 2010 Town & Country

The caster on the front end should be set at +2.5 degrees, with a variance of one degree. The camber should be set at +o.35 degrees on the front left wheel and +0.05 degrees on the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.4 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +0.26 degrees, with a variance of 0.2 degrees.

Excessive shaking during acceleration or when driving up hills can point to a broken front motor mount on the Honda Odyssey. The motor mount is located in the center of the engine compartment, between the lower part of the motor and radiator. Examine the mount from under the engine compartment. If the rubber is cracked, replace the motor mount before the vibrations cause any other parts on the Odyssey to fail.

Instructions

1

Drive both front wheels of the Odyssey onto ramps. Secure wheel chocks behind both rear wheels. (Alternatively, raise both front wheels with a jack and secure them on jack stands.) Open the hood of the Odyssey.

2

Place a jack under the oil pan, with a scrap of wood between the jack and the oil pan. Raise the jack slightly until the wood touches the pan.

3

Remove the four bolts below the front motor mount with a socket wrench. Remove the one nut above the front motor mount.

4

Raise the jack under the oil pan until the top motor mount bolt is free from the motor. Secure a jack stand or additional wood under the motor as a safety precaution.

5

Remove the motor mount by lifting and sliding sideways, up and out. Replace with a new front motor mount.

6

Replace the four bolts under the front motor mount and secure to finger tightness. Remove the jack stand from under the motor. Lower the jack slowly, allowing the upper motor mount bolt to slide into the front mount bracket. Remove the jack and wood.

7

Replace the upper motor mount bolt and tighten to 40 ft-lbs. (54 N-m). Tighten the four lower bolts to 28 ft-lbs. (38 N-m).

If the front bumper on your Jeep Wrangler is damaged or you want to replace it with an aftermarket item, you can do it yourself using basic tools. The front bumper mounts directly to the frame. Over time, the stock metal bumper will start to rust. Stock bumpers may be purchased from a Jeep dealer. There are also aftermarket companies that produce and sell bumpers to the public through websites and auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Remove the plastic Jeep cover with a Phillips screwdriver. Retain the screws for re-installation. The plastic cover is located on the 1997 and newer models. If your Jeep is an older model continue to step two.

2

Locate the mounting bolts on the bumper. There are four mounting bolts, two on each frame rail.

3

Spray the bolts with penetrating fluid to ease the removal process.

4

Remove the bolts with a ratchet and socket. Remove the bumper from the frame rails.

5

Place the new bumper onto the frame rails. Line the bumper up with the stock mounting holes.

6

Install the bolts through the bumper and the frame rails. Place the lock washers onto the ends of the bolt and thread the nuts onto the bolt. Tighten each bolt using a ratchet and socket.

7

Replace the plastic Jeep cover over the bumper and tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.