For U Solution

Checking the transmission fluid level in a Chevy Blazer requires checking the transmission fluid dipstick. The dipstick is located on the passengers side of the engine compartment, near the firewall, at the rear of the engine. The dipstick has a black, plastic, ring-style handle, which is marked.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Chevy Blazer, and support it with the prop rod, which is located on the drivers side of the hood.

2

Locate the transmission dipstick. It is on the drivers side, at the rear of the engine. The handle is marked and sits very close to the firewall of the truck.

3

Wipe the dipstick handle with a clean rag. Grasp the ring on the top of the dipstick with one hand, and pull the up dipstick.

4

Wrap the rag around the dipstick blade, and slide the dipstick out of the tube, wiping off the transmission fluid. Continuing pulling until the entire dipstick blade clears the tube.

The 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe is equipped with two oxygen (O2) sensors within the exhaust system. Designed to control the fuel consumption based on the oxygen in your cars exhaust, the oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter of your Santa Fe. When the cars fuel economy begins to decrease significantly, you may need to replace the oxygen sensors. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer and change them at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Raise the Santa Fe with a jack and support it on a set of jack stands. Locate the oxygen (O2) sensors along the exhaust system.

2

Pull the electrical connection from the top of the oxygen sensor. Remove the existing sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

3

Thread the new oxygen sensor into place by hand to avoid the risk of cross threading and damaging the sensor. Torque the sensor to 40 pound-feet with your torque wrench. Push the electrical connector back into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the second sensor, if needed. Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

The installation of aftermarket fog lights on your 2003 Honda Civic SI is a simple task that you can accomplish in your driveway or garage. Whether youve been involved in a fender-bender that damaged the factory-installed lights or simply want to personalize your coupe, this relatively inexpensive task requires only household tools and less than an hour of your time.

Instructions

1

Park your 2003 Honda Civic SI on level ground and engage the parking brake. Always be safe when working on a car and double-check that the car is secure and that it has completely cooled.

2

Slide under the front end of the car to the back of the fog-light assembly. Unplug the wiring harness from the light socket. Remove the three mounting bolts on the fog-light assembly. Pull out the assembly.

3

Press the new assembly into place and secure it with the three mounting bolts. Be caul not to overtighten the bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light. Test the lights.

The 1995 Chevrolet Corsica depends on an oxygen sensor within the exhaust system to monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. The oxygen content of the exhaust determines how much fuel the car uses to keep the engine running. If the sensor fails, your car may start to use a lot more fuel than needed. To save this needless fuel expense, buy a replacement sensor from an auto-parts store and change it at home. The location of the O2 sensor will vary, depending on the engine in your Corsica.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and allow it to warm up, heating up the exhaust system. Turn the engine off before removing the sensor. Raise the Corsica with a jack. Place a set of jack stands beneath the car to support it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor from beneath the car. The sensor threads into the rear of the manifold or the side of the exhaust pipe. Pull the wiring harness connector apart on the end of the sensor.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor from the Corsica with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Place the new sensor into the mounting area and thread it by hand until it no longer turns easily. Tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

4

Torque the sensor to 30 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Connect the wiring harness by pressing the connectors together.

5

Raise the car with a jack to remove the jack stands. Return the car to the ground.

The Mazda B-Series is a line of pickup trucks manufactured by Mazda Motor Corporation from 1961 to 2006. The number in the series indicates the displacement of the engine, so a Mazda B-4000 has a 4-liter engine. This engine utilizes electronic fuel injection, which requires a highly pressurized fuel system. The fuel pump in a Mazda 4000 is mounted to the fuel tank, so the tank must be removed to service the pump.

Instructions

1

Open the cap on the fuel tank to relieve pressure. Connect pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the open end of the bleed hose on the pressure gauge into a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the pressure relief valve.

2

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal to prevent accidental sparking. Siphon as much fuel as possible with a hose from the fuel tank into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack and mount it on jack stands. Remove the mounting bolts for the skid plate with a socket wrench and remove the skid plate.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank and disconnect the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts for the fuel tank straps with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fuel tank straps without deforming the fuel tank. Detach the fuel tank and lower it from the vehicle with a floor jack.

4

Clean the fuel tank around the fuel pump with a shop towel to prevent contamination of the fuel when you remove the fuel pump assembly. Turn the locking retainer ring for the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench and locking ring adapter. Remove the locking retainer ring and pull the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank without damaging the float arm or fuel filter. Discard the mounting gasket for the fuel pump assembly and clean the mounting surface for the fuel pump assembly.

5

Install the new fuel pump and mounting gasket by performing Steps 2 through 4 in reverse. Tighten the locking ring for the fuel pump assembly by turning it clockwise until it locks into place. Fill the tank with gasoline and check the fuel system for leaks.

Did your 1992 Ciera just transform itself from a power steering-equipped land yacht to a battleship with manual steering? Time to remove the power steering pump and get a new one. Most backyard mechanics will have an easy time with this repair. Dont be shy about taking the alternator out first if you have big hands that struggle in small places. The more room you have to work, the easier this job will be.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery with a socket wrench.

2

Pull the hoses off the steering pump. Tape the openings on the hoses and pump shut with tape to prevent dirt or other contaminants from getting into the power steering fluid. Put the hoses in a position where they are as high as possible to prevent fluid draining out.

3

Loosen the alternator adjustment bolt with the socket wrench to create slack in the drive belt. Remove the belt by hand. This repair is much easier if you completely remove the alternator at this stage to create more room around the power steering pump.

4

On 4-cylinder engines, remove the radiator hose clamp bolt just in front of the steering pump using a socket wrench. Remove the right engine splash shield after undoing the clips and screws that hold it in place.

On 6-cylinder models, you must remove the alternator before proceeding. Remove the upper alternator bracket and alternator pivot bolt with the socket wrench to remove the alternator.

Pump Removal

5

Loosen and remove the power steering pump retaining bolts with the socket wrench.

6

Loosen and remove any braces on the power steering pump with the socket wrench. Remove the power steering pump.

7

Remove the pump pulley from the pump. Keep the pulley to attach to the power steering pump you plan to install. At this stage you can choose to rebuild your existing pump or buy a new one.

The Jeep Liberty is a compact sport utility vehicle that Chrysler has manufactured under its Jeep marque since 2002. The Liberty CRD models were available for 2005 and 2006, and have a four-cylinder 2.8-liter turbo diesel engine that uses a common rail fuel injection system. The timing belt synchronizes the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt in a Jeep Liberty CRD requires replacement at regular intervals, usually at least 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly. Detach the accessory drive belt and remove the vibration damper from the engine.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring the witness line on the hub of the crankshaft to the 12 o-clock position. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90 degrees to move the witness line to the 3 o-clock position. Disconnect the alternator with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the intake and exhaust camshaft plugs from the cover of the camshaft with a socket wrench to expose the alignment pins. Remove the outer cover for the timing belt. Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to loosen the timing belt and detach the timing belt. Remove the alignment pins from the crankshaft and loosen the camshaft gears with special tool VM 1085.

4

Install the alignment pins for the camshaft temporarily while you install the timing belt. Turn the gear for the fuel injection pump clockwise to align the timing mark on the gear with the timing mark on the inner cover of the timing belt.

5

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft hub. Place the timing belt onto the fuel injection pump gear, left idler pulley, intake camshaft gear, exhaust camshaft gear, right idler pulley, and water pump gear in that order.

6

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to align the center notch on the tensioner with the dowel pin on the aluminum cover. Tighten the retaining bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Place special tool VM 1085 between the camshaft gears. Tighten the thumb screws to hold the camshaft gears in place, and tighten the bolts for the camshaft gears to 80 ft. lbs. Remove special tool VM 1085 and the alignment pins from the camshaft.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to bring the witness mark on the crankshaft hub to the 3 o-clock position. Replace the outer cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Connect the camshaft plugs, vibration damper, alternator and cooling fan assembly. Attach the accessory drive belt and replace the engine cover. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Removing the dipstick tube from your AMC 304-cubic inch engine allows you to replace a defective tube or install a chrome or custom tube. The 304 engine was used in many AMC models but was primarily the same engine configuration in all of them. The dipstick tube is on the passengers side of the engine and pushes into the block just above the oil pan mounting rail.

Instructions

1

Locate the dipstick tube on the passengers side of the engine. The tube runs down to the engine block just above the oil pan.

2

Pull the dipstick out of the tube and set it aside. It will be in the way, when you try to remove the tube, if you leave it in place.

3

Place an oil drain pan under the engine, just below the tube. This will catch any drips from the engine while the tube is out of the engine block.

4

Grasp the dipstick tube at the top with a pair of pliers. Do not crush the tube. Pull the tube up, while wiggling it back and forth, until it comes loose from the block. Lift the tube out of the engine compartment.

The rocker arm of an internal combustion engine changes radial movement into linear movement; this kind of device is properly called a reciprocating lever. It takes the spinning motion of the overhead camshaft and turns it into the up-and-down movement that opens and closes the valves. Because they are typically made of steel, rocker arms have a great deal of strength for their weight, and can theore exert a great deal of leverage.

Cam Lobe

The camshaft is not a true spherical rod; it has bulges on it called lobes. The lobes project outward from one side of the shaft, while the back of the shaft -- opposite the lobe -- does not have a projection. As the shaft rotates, the side with the lobe lifts the outside end of the rocker arm, and then the side without the projection allows it to fall back. The cams movement is transferred to the rocker arm by a device called a cam follower, of which there are different types that vary by manufacturer and by vehicle age. As the cam shaft spins, the part of the rocker arm acted upon by the cam follower is lifted and lowered, lifted and lowered.

Valve

Just as the outside end -- the cam end -- of the rocker arm moves up and down, so does its opposite side. As the cam lobe comes round it lifts the outside of the rocker arm, which rocks, and the inner end pushes down on the valve stem, opening it against its spring. As the lobe rotates away from the rocker arm the outside drops, the inner end lifts and the valves spring closes it. In this way, the opening and closing of the valve is kept in sync with the rotation of the cam shaft, and thus with the movement of the pistons. Collectively, the cam lobe, follower, rocker arm, valve and valve spring are known as the valve train.

Ratio

Rocker arms have ratios -- the ratio is a measure of the arms leverage, which in turn determines how powerful the force is that it can transfer to the valve stem. The ratio is determined by the length of the arm, both between its center of rotation and the point it contacts the cam lobe, and between its center of rotation and the top of the valve stem. A typical automotive rocker arm has a 1:1.5 ratio, meaning that it moves the valve one and a half times further than the peak of the cam lobe projects up from the camshaft.

Problems

A tapping noise from the top end of the engine can indicate that insufficient lubrication oil is being delivered to the rocker arm. Most of the oil delivered to the top end of the engine is there to keep the camshaft area lubricated; much less is used for the rocker arms. Top end tapping is typically an early warning that an issue is developing with either the mechanical parts or with the lubrication system; prompt service is strongly recommended.

Each Jeep vehicle has a unique vehicle identification number, or VIN, that describes details such as the type of restraint system and model year. VINs consist of 17 letters and numbers and are useful if you need to order parts or get an insurance quote. You can use a decoding template to learn what each character means.

Instructions

1

The first three characters represent the World Manufacture Identification, or WMI. For Jeeps, the first character is "1" for "United States," the second is "J" for "Jeep" and the third could be a letter or number indicating the type of vehicle. This third character will vary based on the type of Jeep.

2

Character four represent the gross vehicle weight for some Jeeps and the engine type for others. Look at the Jeep Fan website to verify what applies to your specific vehicle.

3

View characters five and six to find out the car line series. For instance, character five could be "J" for Cherokee four-wheel drive and character six could be "2" for "Base."

4

Character seven represents the body style such as "7" for "two-door sport utility."

5

Check character eight to find out the engine type for newer model Jeeps or trim package type for older Jeeps. Use the Jeep Fan website as a cross reference.

6

Jeep assigns character nine as a check character to verify the authenticity of the VIN.

7

Characters 10 and 11 identify the model year and assembly plant, respectively.

8

Characters 12 through 17 represent the production sequence number.

The front shocks on your 1999 Dodge Dakota should be replaced every 50,000 miles. The shocks attach to the axle and the frame of the vehicle. They are designed to dampen the bumps in the road to provide a smooth ride. Worn shocks can cause poor handling and increased tire wear. The front shocks for your Dodge Dakota can be purchased at auto parts stores and installed yourself with simple tools.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts off of each front tire with a tire iron wrench.

2

Place a hydraulic jack under the axle near the tire. Lift the vehicle enough so the tire can be removed. Place a jack stand under the axle and lower the axle with the jack onto the jack stand. Repeat this step to the opposite end of the axle.

3

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tires from the axle.

4

Locate the mounting bolts that secure the shocks to the vehicle. Lubricate these bolts by spraying penetrating fluid onto them. Allow the fluid to lubricate the bolts for 10 minutes.

5

Loosen and remove the bolts with a ratchet and socket. Remove the shock from the vehicle.

6

Place the replacement shock into the brackets. Use the stock hardware to fasten the shock into position. Tighten the bolts with a ratchet and socket.

7

Repeat steps 4 through 6 for shocks on the opposite side of the vehicle.

8

Reinstall the tires and the lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron wrench. Lift the vehicle and remove the jack stands before lowering it to the ground with the jack.

The tailgate on your 1991 Ford F-150 is used to keep loaded items secure in the back of the truck bed. If you are having problems with your F-150s tailgate, you probably need to adjust the alignment. This can be done with a couple of tools that you probably have around the house. You dont have to pay for a body shop to adjust the alignment. You can do it yourself.

Instructions

1

Lower the tailgate so the gate flat. Use your fingers to detach the retaining cables from the pins on the side of the tailgate. Use a wrench to remove the bolt on the lower right hinge of the tailgate.

2

Use a wrench to remove the right hinge pin from the tailgate and then remove the left hinge pin. Pull the tailgate off of the truck.

3

Look for the latch strikers on the sides of the tailgate. These connect the tailgate to the truck bed sides. Clean any dirt or debris from the strikers. Use a Torex screwdriver to loosen or tighten the strikers to line them up properly.

4

Reassemble the tailgate in reverse order to put back on your F-150.

The 1982 Corvette was manufactured with only an automatic transmission available. It was the first time since the Corvettes introduction in 1955 that Chevrolet did not offer a manual transmission option. The 1982 Corvettes gas tank is mounted under the rear of car. Occasionally, your gas tank will require replacement due to rust, corrosion or damage.

Instructions

1

Strap on your safety goggles. Put the jack under the rear frame of your vehicle and lift the Corvette.

2

Drain the fuel from the gas tank. Put the drain pan under your gas tank and remove the gas tank from the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump and fuel relay hose with your pliers.

3

Disconnect the gas tank from your Corvette. Two metal straps hold your Corvettes gas tank in place, mounted by four bolts. Remove the four bolts with your socket wrench set.

4

Mount your replacement gas tank to your Corvette. Attach the gas tank with the two metal straps and four bolts. Use your socket wrench set to secure the bolts.

5

Connect the fuel relay hose and fuel pump to your replacement gas tank. Use your pliers to secure the fuel relay hose. Pour the drained fuel into your replacement gas tank.

Replacing a muffler can be a rewarding job that is quickly completed with a few tools---or it can be the task from Hades. A simple look at the muffler will help you determine which way the job will likely go and help make the decision about doing it yourself easier. If its held on with bolted flanges, it should go well. Replacing a muffler held on with U clamps might require special tools and be a job better left to experts.

Taking Off a Flanged Muffler

A muffler held to the pipe with bolted flanges will have one of two bolt arrangements securing the flanges together. Look closely at the flange. What looks like a bolt may actually be a stud and will require much more care to remove. Examine both ends of the bolt to see if it or the nut is welded to one flange. If it is, care must be taken to get the nut off without damaging the stud. Use a penetrating oil or heat to help break up rust on the threads before attempting to remove the bolt or nut.

Some bolts are through bolts and can turn freely in the flange holes once loosened slightly. If you are certain your muffler flange uses these bolts, you may find it is easier to cut them in half and replace them with a new bolt. Use a reciprocating saw or hand hacksaw to cut them.

Once the flange is unbolted spray the rubber hangers with a light oil, such as WD40 and remove them from the brackets on the muffler. This is easily done with a pair of arc joint pliers.

Removing a Clamped-On Muffler

Be aware that replacing this muffler will be difficult. You must cut the U clamps off and then separate both ends of the muffler from the pipes. Generally, this will require careful work with a hammer and chisel. An air hammer with a chisel designed to split the pipes is much faster if you have access to this tool, and a cutting torch is much faster, but this is not the place to learn to use one.

Once the muffler nipple is split, you can work the pipe out of it. It isnt easy to do because of rust and the deformation of the pipe caused by the clamp. Avoid hammering on the pipes, try to remove them with twisting and pulling. It may be necessary to split the muffler nipple in two or three places before the pipe will separate from it.

Installing the New Muffler

Use a new gasket when installing a flanged muffler. Place the bolts through the flange and use them to hold the gasket while you slide the muffler in place. Tighten the bolts securely but dont over tighten. Finish up by lubing the rubber hangers and pushing them on to the muffler brackets.

If your muffler is secured to the exhaust pipes with U clamps, it will be necessary to install the muffler on to the pipe a distance equal to the length of the nipple on the muffler. Slide the muffler on while twisting and pushing it in place. If it does not readily slide on to the pipe, you may need to rent a pipe expander and enlarge the nipple slightly. Once the pipes are installed in the muffler ends, install the proper-sized U clamp and tighten securely.

Check your work

The last step in replacing your own muffler is to start the engine and check for leaks. If any are found simply tighten the clamps or bolts tighter. This should eliminate the leaks.

Starting your Harley-Davidson Ironhead motorcycle is often taken for granted. You get on the bike, turn on the fuel and ignition and give it a kick to bring the motor to life. All goes well until the day when you go to kick start the bike and the kicker gear fails, leaving you stranded with no way to start the engine. Replacing a broken or worn out gear is time consuming, but well within the abilities of the average home mechanic. You can save hundreds of dollars of expensive shop time by doing the job yourself.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable. Remove the kick starter pedal and both foot pegs. Remove the gearshift lever and remove the rear brake master cylinder from the frame, but do not disconnect the hydraulic hose.

2

Place a drain pan underneath the primary chain cover. Remove the chain case drain plug to drain the chain case oil. Remove the chain case cover and the gasket.

3

Install the spring compression tool H-D 97178-71 onto the crankcase and compress the releasing disc. Remove the retaining nuts, disc and inner and outer clutch springs. Remove the spring compression tool from the crankcase.

4

Remove the outer drive plate and all the friction and inner driven plates. Store the plates in the order they were removed. Remove the pressure plate and chain adjuster. Remove the clutch hub nut and lock-washer and remove the clutch hub.

5

Loosen the exhaust pipe and muffler. Remove the sprocket cover and rotate the crank gear until the starter clutch gear falls free. Remove the shaft nut and lock-washer. Tap the end of the kick starter shaft to loosen the crank gear. Remove the crank gear, kick-starter shaft, oil seal, thrust plate and shims.

6

Inspect the kick starter gears and shafts for wear and damage. Replace as required. Install the kick starter in the reverse order of disassembly. Torque the kicker gear nut to 55 to 65 ft-lbs. and use a new lock-washer.

Purging a pipe involves inducing an inert gas into the pipe to remove reactive atmospheric gases from the welding area. An inert gas atmosphere eliminates oxidation from forming on the backside of the weld. Oxidation forming on the backside or inside of the weld increases friction around the weld joint and causes structural weakness if the oxidation leads to porosity. Use the same type of inert gas for both welding and purging which increases the stability of the weld.

Instructions

1

Cover one end of the pipe with masking tape. Cut a small "X" in the center of the masking tape covering the end of the pipe with a utility knife.

2

Thread a gas regulator onto a bottle of inert gas. Tighten the regulator with an adjustable wrench.

3

Slide the hose coming from the gas regulator into the open end of the pipe.

4

Cover the open end of the pipe with masking tape, securing the hose inside of the pipe.

5

Purge the pipe. Turn the valve onto of the gas bottle counterclockwise to start gas flowing into the pipe. Allow the pipe to fill with gas for one to five minutes depending on pipe diameter. Cover the cut "X" with masking tape to hold the inert gas in the pipe.

6

Allow the inert gas to continue to flow as you weld the pipe seam.

Removing the alternator from the engine compartment in your 1997 Honda CR-V may be necessary if the alternator is bad or if you need to access another part of the engine sitting in front of it. The alternator is located on the right side of the engine and sits down low, near the crankshaft pulley. If you suspect there is a problem with the alternator, you can have it bench-tested at most auto parts stores once it is removed from the car.

Instructions

1

Remove the retaining bolt from the negative battery cable end where it meets the battery with a wrench. Remove the cable from the battery and isolate it from the battery terminals.

2

Locate the two electrical connectors on the rear of the alternator. Unplug the four-prong connector and set it aside. Remove the nut from the terminal on the back of the alternator then remove the battery wire from the terminal. Set the battery wire off to one side and thread the nut loosely onto the terminal for safekeeping.

3

Remove the lock nut on the upper mounting bolt at the front of the alternator with a socket and ratchet then slide the upper bolt out of the alternator.

4

Unscrew the lock nut on the lower mounting bolt with the socket and ratchet, push the alternator towards the engine and remove the belt from the pulley. Slide the lower mounting bolt out of the alternator and mounting bracket then lift the alternator out of the engine compartment.