For U Solution

Spray brake cleaner into a threaded engine block hole. Push the end of a pipe cleaner into the hole to clear it of debris. Pull the pipe cleaner from the hole. Rotate the pipe cleaner and push the other end in the hole. Repeat the process of spraying brake cleaner and cleaning the hole with pipe cleaners until the end of the cleaner pulls from the hole free of debris.

Thread a chaser tap in the cleaned hole. Run the tap to the bottom of the hole. Remove the tap. Spray brake cleaner in the hole. Push a wire brush in the hole. Pull it quickly from hole. Repeat the wire brush cleaning three to four times. Blow compressed air in the hole to remove remaining debris. Clean each threaded engine block hole as described.

Apply red threadlocking sealant on the larger coarse threads of the head studs.

Align the sealant coated threads of each head stud with a threaded engine block hole. Turn each bolt clockwise with the correctly sized wrench until the stud tightens in the hole and the bottom of the stud hex nut sits tight to the top of the engine block.

Tape rags to the front fender to protect the finish. Remove the fairing screws outboard of the left and right speakers with a Torx head driver or socket.

Loosen the top left and right screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges and the screws below the right and left sides of the glove box with a Torx driver.

Remove the front and rear acorn nuts from both the right and left front turn signal lamp brackets with a Torx driver. Pull the front turn signal lamp assemblies from the motorcycle and allow them to hang at the front of the engine guard.

Remove the previously loosened screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges. Raise the outer fairing slightly and rest it on a folded rag. Squeeze the two external tabs to disconnect the headlamp jumper harness connector.

Remove the three outer fairing screws just below the outer face of the windshield with a Torx driver. Remove the two fairing screws just below the left and right wind deflectors with a Torx driver.

Turn the handlebars to the right and remove the outer fairing screw below the left side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Turn the handlebars to the left and remove the outer fairing screw below the below the right side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Lift the fairing and headlamp assembly off the motorcycle.

Insert the ignition switch key and turn to the "unlock" position. Rotate the knob to "access." Depress the release button at the bottom left side of the ignition with a small screwdriver. Push the key and turn it counterclockwise another 60 degrees. Lift and remove the knob.

Loosen the switch nut with an open end socket and socket wrench. Remove the nut from the threaded post. Remove the collar and spacer.

Remove the left and right inner fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Pull the switch position plate tabs from the slots in the inner fairing cap. Turn the handlebars all the way left and disconnect the fairing cap switch connector by pushing the button on the plug side of the connector to pull apart the pin and the socket halves of the connector.

Remove the fairing cap from the motorcycle by hand. Slide the ignition switch connector off the anchor on the bottom of the radio and pull the socket and pin halves of the connector apart. Remove the switch housing screws with a Torx driver and lift the switch housing from the upper fork bracket bore and remove the switch housing.

Slide the base of the replacement ignition switch into the bore of the upper fork bracket. Replace the screws and tighten to 50 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench.

Plug the ignition switch connector back together install that onto the anchor on the bottom of the radio. Plug the fairing cap switch connector back together and install that on the right side of the fairing cap.

Turn the handlebars all the way left and install the fairing cap over the ignition switch housing. Install the switch position plate fitting tabs in the slots of the fairing cap.

Reinstall the two fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Slide first the spacer and then the collar over the ignition switch housing post.

Replace the nut and tighten to 60 inch pounds of torque with an open end socket and torque wrench. Install the ignition switch knob with the red arrow pointing toward the "access" position. Turn the key clockwise to the "unlock" position then turn the key to "off."

Tighten the two fairing cap screws to 30 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench. Verify the operation of the ignition switch.

Reinstall the fairing and headlamp assembly. Remove the rags.

Open the hood of the Honda Accord. There is usually a button inside of the car. Push the button to release the hood. A latch is located in the middle of the hood underneath the edge. Push the latch and then lift up the hood. Make sure the hood is held up securely with the holder in the car, or by some other means, to ensure the hood does not fall when you are under it.

Use a 10 mm wrench to loosen the bolts on top of the bumper to remove it. Once the bumper is removed, put it to the side.

Disconnect the wires that are on the back of the headlights. Remove the bulbs from the inside of the lens assembly. Remove these by turning and pulling them out.

Loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the lens assembly and remove it using a 10 mm wrench.

Insert the projector light in the same place you just took out the headlights, and screw it in using the same bolts you just removed. Connect the wires to the back of the projector light with the wires you just disconnected from the headlight, and then put the bulbs back into place.

Test the lights to make sure they work. If you are satisfied, place the bumper back on the car by putting it back into the same position, align the bolts and asten them using the 10 mm wrench.

Start the engine, and remove the relay connector under the left side of the instrument panel. Allow the engine to stall, and turn the ignition switch off. Connect the relay connector.

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Press the clip on each end of the rear seat to release the cushion, and remove the rear seat cushion. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly. Remove the screws on the access cover for the fuel pump assembly, and open the access cover.

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly, and remove the mounting screws on the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench. Discard the old gasket for the fuel pump assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and remove the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit. Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel pump.

Attach the fuel sending unit to the new fuel pump, and fasten the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and place a new gasket on the fuel tank. Install the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank, and fasten the mounting screws for the fuel pump assembly. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly.

Replace the access cover, and fasten the mounting screws for the access cover with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly, and replace the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal, and start the engine. Check the fuel system for leaks.

Park your 2003 Honda Civic SI on level ground and engage the parking brake. Always be safe when working on a car and double-check that the car is secure and that it has completely cooled.

Slide under the front end of the car to the back of the fog-light assembly. Unplug the wiring harness from the light socket. Remove the three mounting bolts on the fog-light assembly. Pull out the assembly.

Press the new assembly into place and secure it with the three mounting bolts. Be caul not to overtighten the bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light. Test the lights.

Remove the two pairs of bolts in each corner of the Monte Carlo with a wrench. Removing these bolts will loosen the headliner making it easier to remove.

Feed your fingers through the holes that have been opened up from removing the bolts and pull down on the headliner. Pulling with minimal pressure should remove the headliner without ripping or bending the old Monte Carlo headliner. Remove the headliner through the car door once loose.

Scrub the exposed roof of the Monte Carlo with sandpaper. Scrubbing the old glue away will make it easier for the new headliner to stick to the roof.

Spray a layer of adhesive glue all over the new headliner material. Gently press the new Monte Carlo headliner up against the roof. Push the middle and corners of the new headliner to prevent sagging from happening anytime soon.

Trim the rim of the new headliner, if it overlaps on to the windows, with scissors. Screw the bolts back in to the holes in each corner with a wrench. You have finished installing a new headliner in your 1970 Monte Carlo.

Lower the window completely. Disconnect the clips and hook on the cover of the mirror mount. Detach the cover from the mirror mount by hand, and unplug the electrical connector for the tweeter in the door.

Detach the cap from the mirror, and remove the retaining screw with a socket wrench. Pull the inner handle on the mirror forward, and disconnect the rod from the handle. Unplug the electrical connector for the power door lock.

Disconnect the clips on the door panel with a trim pad remover. Pull the panel up to remove it from the door. Detach the electrical connector for the speaker in the door.

Unplug the wiring harness on the door from the drivers side mirror. Detach the socket for the courtesy light bulb if you are removing the passengers side mirror. Remove the clip for the wiring harness from the passengers door panel.

Pull up on the upper seal for the door to access the electrical connector under the seal. Detach the connector in the mirror and its harness clip. Remove the mounting bolts for the mirror with a socket wrench, and push out the clip on the mirror. Remove the mirror from the vehicle.

Install the new mirror to its mount, and attach the clip. Fasten the mirror into the mount with the mounting bolts. Attach the electrical connector for the mirror and its harness clip. Connect the electrical connector under the doors upper seal.

Connect the wiring harness on the drivers side door to the mirror. Attach the socket for the courtesy light bulb and clip for the wiring harness on the passengers side door panel. Attach the electrical connector for the door speaker, and install the door panel to the door.

Plug the electrical connector into the door lock, and connect the inner handle for the door. Fasten the retaining screw for the mirror with a socket wrench, and attach the cap for the mirror. Plug in the electrical connector for the tweeter in the door, and attach the cover for the mirror mount.

Unscrew the rear view mirror and slide it out. Set aside.

Lift up the wipers and pry them off the car with a large flathead screwdriver positioned between the large nut and the arm. Rock the screwdriver back and forth until the wipers come off. Set them aside.

Seal off the vents on the dashboard with masking tape.

Cut away the windshields rubber gasket by inserting a knife into the rubber next to the windshield glass from inside the Corvette. Cut all the way around, then push the glass out with your hands or feet while a friend wearing gloves catches it from the outside.

Wipe the edge of the windshield opening with a damp cloth. Wipe the sealant off of the replacement gasket. Put the gasket in a sunny place to make it more flexible.

Fit the new gasket around the new windshield with the gaskets slit facing outside the vehicle. Run a bead of sealant along the bottom half channel on the gasket.

Wipe petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove, applying a little extra to the top center and bottom center. Starting at the bottom center, put the heavy nylon cord around the outer groove. Leave about a foot length on each end hanging out the bottom center.

Place the windshield into the windshield opening from outside the Corvette. Make sure the cord ends dangle inside the car.

Pull one cord end slowly out and all the way around the frame. This will pull the rubber lip of the gasket into place. Ask your helper to press the gasket onto the outside edge of the vehicle.

Reinstall the rear view mirror and wipers. Wait 48 hours before driving the vehicle.

Park your Mini Copper someplace flat, level and well lit. Set the parking brake and let the car cool down for 15 to 20 minutes.

Crawl under the front bumper and look directly behind the fog light lens for the inner fog light assembly. There are only two functioning parts to the assembly, a wiring harness and the bulb in a socket.

Unplug the harness by squeezing the base of the plug and pulling it out of the socket. Reach in and grasp the bulb. Give it a half turn to the left and pull it free from the socket.

Insert the new bulb an secure it in the socket. Be caul not to overtwist it during installation. Plug the harness back in.

Lower the window completely. Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an electrical short circuit or shock while installing the mirror.

Remove the trim panel and water deflector from the interior side of the door with a socket wrench. Disconnect the screws for the accessory mounting plate on the inside of the door to gain access to the electrical connectors for the side mirror.

Disconnect the retainer on the electrical wiring harness for the side mirror, and detach the electrical connector for the mirror. Record the routing for the mirrors wiring harness, so you can route it properly when you install the new mirror.

Remove the retaining nuts for the side mirror with a socket wrench, and detach the mirror unit from the door. Detach the wind deflector from the mirror unit, if you have a convertible.

Connect the wind deflector to the new mirror unit with a socket wrench, if you have a convertible. Mount the mirror unit to the door, and fasten it with the retaining nuts. Attach the electrical connector to the mirror, using the routing you previously recorded as a guide. Attach the retainer for the wiring harness.

Install the accessory mounting plate to the door with a socket wrench. Attach the water deflector and trim panel to the inside of the door. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Disconnect the negative cable from the vehicles battery.

Raise the front of the vehicle off of the ground using a jack.

Place jack stands under the front frame support on each side, and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported and remove the jack.

Locate the CV shaft input on the right side of the transmission.

Push the end of the CV shaft into the transmission by hand until the inner CV shaft clicks into place inside the transmission. Make sure not to damage the side seals on the transmission during this process.

Install the inner bearing retaining bolts using a torque wrench and socket and tighten the bolts to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

Pull out the right side strut assembly by hand and insert the outer CV shaft into the hub assembly. Release the right side strut assembly.

Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the ball joint retaining bolt and nut, and tighten using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

Install the axle nut washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

Insert a new cotter pin through the axle. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the axle using needle-nose pliers

Install the wheel assembly and wheel lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

Raise the front of the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack. Remove the jack stands, lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack.

Connect the negative cable to the vehicles battery.

Remove old gasket material and debris from both the part and engine mounting surfaces by pushing a paint scraper across both surfaces using short strokes.

Dampen a clean rag with isopropyl alcohol.

Wipe both surfaces clean with the alcohol-dampened rag. Ensure no dirt or grease remains on either surface.

Puncture the end of a gasket adhesive tube with the point located on the top of the cap. Apply a 1/8-inch-thick bead of adhesive to the parts gasket mounting flange. Press a cork gasket firmly into the adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry for 10 to 15 minutes.

Press the part--gasket side down--onto the mounting flange of the engine. Secure the part to the engine to seat the gasket.

Remove all heat shields by completely loosening the worm clamps that hold them to the exhaust pipes with a flat-head screwdriver.

Loosen and remove the two flange nuts that secure the front and rear exhaust pipes to the cylinder heads with a socket wrench and a hex socket, if you intend to replace the complete exhaust. Slide the exhaust flange and retaining ring off the cylinder head studs.

Loosen and remove the two oxygen sensors that bolt into your exhaust near the transmission cover using an open end wrench.

Loosen and remove the two nuts and bolts that secure the front and rear exhaust pipes to the frame bracket using an open end wrench.

Remove the complete exhaust assembly from the motorcycle. Remove the exhaust port gaskets from the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads.

Loosen both the muffler clamps that fasten the mufflers to the header pipes using a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove both mufflers with the interconnect tube (if applicable) from the exhaust pipes.

Remove both mufflers from the interconnect tube using a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove and discard the interconnect tube gaskets.

Bolt the new mufflers to the interconnect tube (if applicable) using replacement gaskets and a socket wrench and hex socket. Connect the mufflers to the new or replacement exhaust pipes using the old mufflers clamps.

Replace the exhaust port gaskets in the exhaust ports in the cylinder head.

Tighten the muffler clamps with a socket wrench and hex socket. Connect the front and rear exhaust pipes to the frame bracket using an open end wrench and the hardware you removed earlier

Coat the thread of the two oxygen sensors with Teflon paste. Install the oxygen sensors in the front and rear exhaust pipes. Tighten with an open end wrench.

Reconnect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust ports using the flanges, retaining rings and nuts you removed earlier. Tighten the nuts on the exhaust studs with a socket wrench and hex socket.

Replace the heat shields on the exhaust. Refasten the worm clamps using a flat-head screwdriver.

Open the hood and raise it up. Prop the hood up with the lock rod to prevent it from falling.

Move to the front passenger side of the Windstar and locate the belt tensioner on the front of the motor. Position a breaker bar and a metric socket onto the bolt that connects the idler pulley to the end of the tensioner. Turn the breaker bar toward the backside of the engine compartment (Counter-clockwise) to loosen the tension from the belt. Slip the belt off of the idler pulley and release the tension from the breaker bar.

Wrap the bungee cord around the belt and hang it to one of the top engine components to prevent it from slipping out of any pulleys.

Loosen and remove the single bolt in the center of the belt tensioner arm, Pull the tensioner off of the engine block. If the tensioner is stuck, use a flat head screwdriver to pry the tensioner off of the engine block.

Secure the new belt tensioner to the front of the engine block with the single bolt. Tighten the bolt with the ratchet and socket.

Turn the new tensioner toward the back side of the engine compartment with the breaker bar and socket. Remove the bungee cord from the belt and slip the belt around the new tensioner pulley. Release the tension from the breaker bar and remove it from the engine compartment.

Crank up the motor to ensure that the new belt tensioner is working properly. The idler pulley should be moving up and down as the belt is traveling around the pulley. This up and down movement is the tensioner keeping the belt properly tensioned at all times. Shut the engine off.

Turn off the vehicle and remove the ignition key.

Examine the top portion of the middle dash console and locate the two center vents, above the rectangular-shaped hazard switch.

Insert the flathead screwdriver between the center-most left or right sides of one of the vent diffusers. Position the screwdriver blade in front of the pivoting nub. Gently pry the vent diffuser from the dashboard to unhinge the pivoting nub.

Remove the screwdriver and pull the vent diffuser completely out of the dash panel. Remove the remaining center-mounted vent diffuser from the vent panel, using the same process outlined in the previous step.

Remove the two Torx screws, located inside the vent holes, securing the center vent panel to the dashboard, using an appropriate Torx bit and a screwdriver attachment.

Pull the bottom edge of the vent panel to aid in the removal process. After detaching the vent panel from the dash, disconnect the wiring harness connected to the rear of the hazard switch.

Push on the rear of the hazard switch to pop the unit out through the front side of the vent panel.

Insert the new hazard switch into the vent panel, taking note of the proper orientation of the old switch button.

Connect the harness to the rear of the hazard switch.

Fit the vent panel to the dashboard and replace the screws. Replace the vent diffusers to complete the installation process; use the flathead screwdriver to help align the pivoting nubs with the corresponding vent panel retaining holes.

Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center in the engine compartment. Start the engine and allow it to stall. Continue to crank the engine until it no longer starts. Turn the ignition off, and replace the fuel pump relay.

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the battery from producing sparks. Disconnect the plenum for the intake manifold, and cover the opening to the intake manifold with a clean shop cloth. Put a shop cloth under the quick-connect fittings on the fuel line, and squeeze the quick-connect fittings together. Detach the fuel line from the fuel rail.

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench, and remove the fuel rail from the engine. Release the retainer clips on the fuel injectors, and detach the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.

Coat the O-rings on the new fuel injectors with engine oil, and install the fuel injectors to the fuel rail. Secure the fuel injectors with the retaining clips. Press the fuel rail into place on the cylinder head, ensuring that the fuel rail is fully seated.

Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail to 100 inch-pounds with a torque wrench if you have a 2.7-liter engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to 21 foot-pounds if you have a 3.5-liter engine.

Remove the shop cloth from the opening of the intake manifold, and connect the plenum for the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Coat the quick-connect fittings on the fuel line with engine oil and connect the fuel line to the fuel rail. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Buy exhaust tips that fit the diameter of your tail pipe properly. Tips from the cars manufacturer may be the best fit, as these parts are usually specific to the vehicles year, model and type. However, even within car brands, tips may not fit all cars.

Measure the bumper cutouts to ensure the new chrome tips fit. With the wrong-size part, you may damage the bumper, scratch the chrome or be forced to enlarge the cutout. If you decide to go with a larger-size tip, have a professional cut the bumper to avoid cracking.

Pick the length of your tips so that you achieve maximum curb appeal without burning pedestrians shins. Your tips should be long enough to be seen and properly vent the exhaust.

Install the tips when the car is cold. As you slide the tip onto the tailpipe or muffler tip, you will meet resistance, so you want to avoid having the parts expand due to the heat of the engine. In addition, you dont want to burn your fingers as you work with the tailpipe!

Use WD-40 to lubricate the tips as you install them. This will help the tips slide on as far as possible without excess force. You may have to use a rubber mallet to push the tip back fully. Protect the chrome parts with a towel.

Tighten the screws, and check for rattling. Tighten the screws again in about 2 weeks, as they will naturally loosen at first. For weld-on models, you will skip the screws, and weld the tip on for a secure fit.

Remove any components necessary to access the timing belt on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench if your vehicle has manual transmission. Remove the timing belt guide from the engine block.

Remove the center bolt for the idler pulley of the timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the idler pulley from the engine block, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys. Remove the mounting bolts for the tension adjuster of the timing belt, and detach the tension adjuster from the engine block.

Hold the tension adjuster with a vertical press and press the adjuster rod to align the hole in the rod with the hole in the cylinder housing for the tension adjuster. Place a 2mm Allen wrench through the holes to hold the adjuster in place.

Install the tension adjuster to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect the belt idler pulleys to the engine block, and torque the mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump cover. Rotate the camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.

Install the left part of the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, upper left idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket and lower left idler pulley in that order. Hold the lower left idler pulley in place. Continue installing the timing belt onto the lower right idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket in that order.

Align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshafts if necessary. Pull the Allen wrench from the housing of the timing belt tension adjuster.

Install the timing belt guide and fasten its mounting bolts by hand if your vehicle has manual transmission. Adjust the timing belt guide so there is 0.019 to 0.059 in. clearance between the guide and the timing belt. Tighten the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench.

Replace any components you removed in step one to access the timing belt.

Remove the factory installed shifter following the instructions in the service manual for your car. The tools you will need to remove this shifter will depend on the brand and model of your installed shifter.

Disconnect the factory shift cable from the transmission and remove the control arm from the gear selector shaft on the transmission using a 15 mm socket and a socket wrench.

Remove the transmission oil pan bolts using a 13 mm socket and a socket wrench. Attach the cable bracket supplied with your dual gate shifter to the transmission oil pan using the stock bolts, a 13 mm socket and a socket wrench.

Remove factory shift cable from your car using the tools specified in the service manual for your vehicle. Insert the new dual gate shifter cable through the existing cable hole inside your car.

Route the cable under your car from the passenger side of your car to the transmission pan, then across the transmission pan to the cable bracket you just installed.

Insert the cable collar into the slot on the cable bracket and attach to the bracket using the retaining clip supplied with your shifter.

Put the shifter stick in neutral and remove the shifter knob.

Attach the U-clips included with your shifter to the shifter assembly and attach the J-clip included with your shifter to the back of the shifter assembly.

Attach the rear shifter mounting bracket included with your shifter to the factory bracket on the floor tunnel using the two 10 mm hex bolts included with your shifter. Tighten the hex bolts with an 10 mm Allen wrench.

Insert the shifter cable into the round bracket on the dual gate shifter housing. Secure the cable to the shifter frame bracket using the retaining clip supplied with your shifter.

Remove the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin from the top of the selector pivot at rear of the shifter and attach the eyelet end of the new cable by reusing the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin.

Put the shifter in the console and fasten the shifter to the rear mounting bracket using the 1/4 inch hex head bolts supplied with the shifter. Tighten the bolts with a 1/4 inch Allen wrench.

Fasten the front of the shifter assembly to the factory bracket located on floor tunnel, reusing two 10mm hex bolts you used to attach the factory bracket to the floor tunnel.

Insert the factory column lock cable fully into the bracket on the front of shifter frame until the protrusions on the cable lock into place. Ensure that both the shifter and the transmission are in neutral.

Thread the cable pivot onto one end of the cable stud then lock the cable pivot in place using the 10/32-inch nut supplied with the cable and an adjustable wrench.

Move the shifter stick into the low gear position and check the adjustment under the car. The transmission should also be in low. Repeat this procedure for each gear by shifting into each gear and checking the adjustment under the car.

Place the original shifter console plate over the shifter stick and reattach to the console using the hardware from your original shifter. Replace your shifter knob

Open your vehicles hood and locate the battery. Remove the negative cable from the negative terminal. Then, remove the positive cable from the positive terminal. Wait five minutes or more and allow power remaining inside your vehicle to drain out. This is a security precaution. You do not want your airbags accidentally deploying. It may not be necessary depending on your exact make and model, but it is always a good precaution when working on or near a vehicles dashboard.

Climb into the drivers seat and look at your vehicles steering wheel and horn button. Examine the button very closely. Some horn pads can easily pried off, but you have to make sure the pad does not interlock with any components or paneling on the front of the steering wheel. Insert a tape wrapped screwdriver at the edge of the pad. Slowly pry the pad out of the steering wheels retaining clips. Exercise caution while doing this, as there is wiring connected to the back of the pad.

Examine the horn button again, if it appears to interlock with other panels and buttons on the steering wheel. Dismantle and remove the panels to get to the button. In some models, like Ford pick-ups, you will have to start at the base of the column and remove other components like the airbag module. Once the obstructions are clear, the button can be easily lifted away from the steering wheel.

Undo the wiring from the back of the button or pad. There will be a simple wiring connector. You should not have to worry about clipping and crimping any wires.

Set the old button aside. Connect your vehicles wiring to the back of the new pad or button. Reassemble the steering wheel panels in the reverse of how you took them apart. If you steering wheel features a simple horn pad, connect the pad to the steering wheels retaining clips.