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Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.

2

Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.

3

Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

4

Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.

5

Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.

6

Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.

7

Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.

8

Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.

9

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

10

Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.

11

Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.

12

Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.

13

Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.

14

Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.

Checking the transmission fluid level in a Chevy Blazer requires checking the transmission fluid dipstick. The dipstick is located on the passengers side of the engine compartment, near the firewall, at the rear of the engine. The dipstick has a black, plastic, ring-style handle, which is marked.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Chevy Blazer, and support it with the prop rod, which is located on the drivers side of the hood.

2

Locate the transmission dipstick. It is on the drivers side, at the rear of the engine. The handle is marked and sits very close to the firewall of the truck.

3

Wipe the dipstick handle with a clean rag. Grasp the ring on the top of the dipstick with one hand, and pull the up dipstick.

4

Wrap the rag around the dipstick blade, and slide the dipstick out of the tube, wiping off the transmission fluid. Continuing pulling until the entire dipstick blade clears the tube.

A fuel injector delivers fuel to engine cylinders in a specific sequence. Modern fuel injectors are typically electronically controlled, but older engines used mechanical fuel injection. For example, the large diesel engines in heavy Ford trucks made from 1987 to 1996 used mechanical injection. Removing the injectors in these vehicle also requires you clean the injection system due to the deposits left by diesel fuel.

Instructions

1

Clean the nozzle of each fuel injector and the surrounding area with clean engine oil to keep debris out of the engine when you remove the injectors. Clean the connections for the fuel lines on the injectors. Blow the injectors dry with an air compressor.

2

Release the retaining clamps for the fuel lines on the injectors. Detach the high-pressure fuel lines and the leak-off tees from the injectors. Push the fuel lines out of the way. Cover the open fuel lines with caps to keep debris out of the fuel system.

3

Turn the injectors counterclockwise with a socket wrench to loosen them from the engine. Pull the injectors from the engine with the washer still attached. Cover the injector nozzles and fuel openings with plastic caps to prevent fuel contamination.

4

Store the injectors in numbered holders as you remove them. This allows you to replace the injectors into their correct cylinder.

Wheel bolts, or lug nuts, are the nuts that hold the wheel to the axle of your vehicle. A Ford Aspire has one of the smaller patterns, consisting of only four bolts. The bolts are welded to the hub. The wheel slips over the bolts and the lug nuts are then used to tighten the wheel to the hub. If you are not caul, you can round the corners off of the lug nuts. If this happens, they become stuck. You can use the alligator-like jaws of locking pliers to free them.

Instructions

1

Insert the flat tip of a tire iron into the crack between the hubcap and the wheel. Wiggle it until it penetrates 1/2-inch. Pry on the tire iron to pop the hubcap off the wheel.

2

Spray the wheel bolts liberally with spray lubricant. Coat the entire bolt and nut until the lubricant is dripping off. Wait one hour for the lubricant to penetrate.

3

Open the jaws of the locking pliers. Slip them over the lug nut. The handle of the pliers should be pointing horizontally to the left. Squeeze the handle. If the handle closes too easily, turn the bolt on the end of the locking pliers clockwise and close the jaws again. You should be able to just barely close the jaws on the rounded nut.

4

Press the handles of the pliers together with both hands. Using all of your weight, force the handles toward the ground. You should be turning the bolt counterclockwise.

5

Bounce your weight on the nut until it breaks loose. If it wont break loose, use a hammer to smack the end of the handles of the pliers until the lug nut breaks loose. Finish unscrewing the bolt with your fingers, or spin the bolt with the pliers if the bolt is stubborn.

The drive shaft is the part of a vehicle that transfers power from the engine, via the transmission, to the drive wheels. On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential transfers the energy to a drive shaft that runs the length of the vehicle. On front-wheel-drive cars, like the 2001 Infiniti I30, the shaft is in two parts, one on each side of the vehicle, and runs side to side. Notice that the procedure differs slightly depending on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels and raise the car. Support the car with a jack stand on each side, remove the lug nuts and take off both wheels.

2

Use a socket wrench with a long cheater bar attached to remove the wheel bearing locking nut.

3

Use a socket wrench to remove the two nuts on the two lower strut mounting bolts, and remove the bolts.

4

Remove the brake line from the strut by removing it from the attaching clip.

5

Remove the right drive shaft first if the vehicle has an automatic transmission. Place a block of wood against the drive shaft where it protrudes from the hub and strike it lightly several times with a hammer to separate it from the knuckle. Do not do this without the block of wood in place. If the shaft uses to separate, you will need to use a tie rod puller to remove it. The puller fits over the drive shaft and separates the two parts as you tighten it.

6

Pull the right drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the car has an automatic transmission, insert a tool such as a large screwdriver or punch into the hole where the right drive shaft fits and strike it with a hammer to separate the left drive shaft. You can then simply pull the left drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the Infiniti is equipped with a manual transmission, you will need to repeat the procedure described in Step 5 on the left side of the car as well.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse is a coupe that Mitsubishi Motors has produced since 1990 in the United States. The 2000 model is a third-generation Eclipse, which includes the 2000 through 2005 models. The 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse is available with either a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine or a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine. The procedure for replacing the crankshaft pulley in a 2000 Eclipse varies slightly, depending on the engine size.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to keep the engine from starting during the crankshaft pulley replacement.

2

Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the accessory drive belts. Remove the drive belts from around the crankshaft pulley.

3

Raise the vehicle, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the right front wheel with a lug wrench to access the crankshaft pulley. Remove the splash shield from the right front fender with a socket wrench.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, if your vehicle has a 2.4-liter engine. Disconnect the center retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, if your vehicle has a 3.0-liter engine. Attach a suitable puller to the crankshaft pulley, and remove it from the crankshaft.

5

Align the key way on the new crankshaft pulley with the key on the crankshaft, and mount the pulley to the crankshaft.

6

Fasten the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft sprocket with the retaining bolts, if your vehicle has a 2.4-liter engine. Fasten the center mounting bolt to the crankshaft pulley, if your vehicle has a 3.0-liter engine.

7

Tighten the retaining bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench for a 2.4-liter engine. Tighten the center mounting bolt to between 108 and 116 foot-pounds for a 3.0-liter engine.

8

Connect the splash shield to the right front fender with a socket wrench, and install the wheel with a lug wrench. Lower the vehicle, and mount the accessory drive belts. Adjust the tension on the drive belts by turning the tensioner clockwise. Attach the negative battery cable.

Jeep Wranglers were first introduced as four-wheel drive sport utility vehicles in 1987. Although they are available with automatic transmissions, many of the 2000 year models featured a manual transmission. Sometimes when the transmission breaks it will need to be entirely removed from the vehicle to be properly repaired. You can do the job on your own, but it will take at least a few hours. You need some basic automotive tools and a transmission jack.

Instructions

1

Jack up the Jeep and secure it on four jack stands so you have room to get beneath the SUV. Remove the exhaust and the skid plate from the underneath it with the socket wrench set.

2

Use an open-ended wrench to disengage the rear driveline from the transmission. Repeat this process with the front driveline. Detach all wiring from the transmission. Remove the transfer case and linkage from the back of the transmission using the socket wrench by unbolting it and pulling it off the transmission.

3

Position the transmission jack beneath the transmission and jack it up until it touches the bottom of the transmission pan. Loop the chains on the jack around the transmission. Bolt the opposite end of the chain to the jack with the open-end wrench. Confirm that the transmission is secure.

4

Use the socket wrench to remove the transmission crossmember and rear transmission mount from the frame. Pull the crossmember away from the frame so that you can remove the transmission from beneath the vehicle without obstruction.

5

Use the socket and ratchet to unbolt the transmission from the engine. Unfasten the clutch brace rod before lowering the transmission away from the motor with the jack.

Water leaking from the exhaust pipe of a car is caused by the catalytic converter and the condensation of water vapor, according to autoupkeep.com. This is normal and nothing to worry about.

Combustion

The combustion of gasoline produces carbon dioxide and water vapor, according to chemistryland.com. Oxygen reacts with hydrogen in gasoline to produce water vapor, which exits the engine through the exhaust manifold.

Exhaust System

The exhaust, which includes carbon monoxide, nitrous carbon dioxide, water vapor and unburned gasoline are processed by the catalytic converter, which changes the gasoline to more carbon dioxide and water and directs them into the muffler.

Other Facts

In hot weather, the water vapor is less likely to condense and drain, but in cold weather, water vapor will do exactly that and drip from the tailpipe. Over time, water in the exhaust system can cause corrosion.

Replacing the Exhaust-Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve on a 1999 Lincoln Town Car 4.6-liter engine will give the car greater fuel mileage and allow it to run more smoothly. The EGR recycles unburned fuel from the exhaust gasses back into the engine. A bad EGR can stop a car altogether, as it is part of the exhaust output and the engines vacuum intake system. Replacing the E.G.R. valve should take no longer than two hours if you have never done this type of work before. The tools and materials for this project are available at an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Open the hood. Locate and remove the vacuum hose from the top of the EGR valve. The EGR. valve looks like a miniature flying saucer and is located on the top drivers side of the engine.

2

Remove the small electrical harness from the EGR. valve with your hand. Thoroughly saturate all of the connections to the EGR. with rust penetrant or WD-40. Let it stand for five minutes.

3

Remove the EGR mounting bolts using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket.

4

Free the EGR. valve from the EGR tube, using two open-end wrenches. The EGR tube is the protrusion from the bottom of the valve. Hold the EGR. tube completely still during this step so as not to fracture or break the tube. The tube extends all the way to the catalytic converter; you cannot buy it separately from the converter. Spin the E.G.R. counterclockwise to remove it.

5

Install the new EGR, reversing the steps to remove it. Install the EGR tube connection first. Install the EGR mounting bolts and tighten them between 30 to 50 foot-pounds of torque.

6

Reinstall the small vacuum tube. Snap the electrical connector onto the new EGR valve.

Bolts rust because of exposure to elements such as water or salt, or because dissimilar metals are threaded together. Anti-seize compounds painted on your bolts prevent rust and corrosion, and make it easier to thread a bolt into a part and remove the bolt later. A protective compound applied to the head of the bolt after it is installed helps prevent rust or corrosion forming on this more exposed part of the bolt. If the bolt already shows some rust, remove the rust before applying the anti-seize compound.

Instructions

1

Apply the rust remover, if needed, as directed on the container. After cleaning it off the bolt, use a stiff brush to thoroughly clean the bolt.

2

Paint the bolt with a thin coat of anti-seize compound.

3

Insert the bolt into the part and thread it as tightly as you can by hand. Use a socket wrench and ratchet to finish tightening the bolt.

4

Wipe the bolt head and the area around it with a clean cloth to remove dirt and excess anti-seize compound.

5

Spray the head of the bolt with corrosion protection compound.

Backfiring is a common problem and can be a symptom of issues you need to address. The loud bursts of noise that come out of your exhaust pipe could be a sign that theres something seriously wrong with your car. Ruling out common causes of backfire can help you diagnose your problem. Unfortunately, there are many causes and solutions, and it could take several hours to fix the problem.

Instructions

1

Examine your carburetor. The carburetor is the device that regulates airflow into your engine. This facilitates the controlled gas explosions that keep your car cruising along. Balance and tune the carburetor to ensure the air and gas mixture is properly balanced. The backfire may be your cars way of telling you that its not getting enough air in its fuel mixture. You may also be able to prime the carburetor to fix it if it hasnt been used in quite some time.

2

Check the distributor cap. If it is cracked or broken in any way, it can easily backfire. Be sure to look very closely. Even a hairline crack can cause a car to backfire.

3

Evaluate your spark plugs. These provide the spark that ignites the air and gas mixture. If they are dirty, backfiring may be a symptom of an underpowered car. Remove the plugs with a wrench and make sure the pins are the right distance from the base of the plug. There may also be small bits of dirt in the plug that could cause a problem.

4

Inspect the integrity of the gaskets in your engine. These gaskets keep the proper gases in and the unneeded gases out. If these are compromised, they could cause backfire.

Although it does not happen very often, from time to time the differential in a rear wheel drive car will fail and the ring gear will need replacement. Replacing the ring gear is a job normally left to professional technicians because of the tools and knowledge needed to measure the precise tolerances during reassembly. However, a do-it-yourselfer with some advanced skills can do the job at home.

Instructions

Preparing the Vehicle

1

Place a wheel chock in front of each of the front tires. Center the lifting pad of a floor jack under the differential. Jack up the vehicle until the floor deck supports the weight of the vehicle, and the rear wheels are still in contact with the ground.

2

Turn the lug nuts, which hold the tires to the vehicle, counterclockwise with a lug wrench to loosen them. Just loosen the lug nuts, do not remove them.

3

Jack up the vehicle with the floor jack until the tires are no longer are in contact with the ground. Place a jack stand under each axle tube and lower the vehicle so that the rear axle tubes rests on the jack stands. Adjust the jack stands high enough that the rear wheels are still off the ground when the vehicle is resting on them by pulling the ratcheting center post of each jack stand up as close to the axle tube as it will go.

4

Remove the lug nuts and tires from the vehicle.

Removing the Axle Shafts

5

Place a drain pan underneath the differential. Turn the differential cover bolts counterclockwise using the appropriate size socket on a ratchet wrench. Drive a screwdriver between the cover and the differential by gently tapping it with a hammer to break the seal, and remove the differential cover allowing the gear lube in the differential to drain into the drain pan.

6

Turn the bolt that secures the cross pin counterclockwise with the ratchet wrench and appropriate size socket to remove it. Remove the cross pin.

7

Push each axle shaft in from the outside and remove the C-clip from the other end of each axle shaft. Remove the axle shafts from the vehicle by pulling them straight out from the outside.

Removing the Ring Gear

8

Make an identification mark on each of the carrier caps with the center punch and hammer to ensure the carrier caps are reassembled in their original positions.

9

Remove the upper and lower bolts from each carrier cap and remove the caps. Remove the carrier and ring gear assembly from the differential.

10

Turn the bolts that attach the ring gear to the carrier counterclockwise with a ratchet wrench and appropriate socket to remove them. Remove the ring gear, completing the operation.

It often starts with a loud popping sound while youre turning. A worn or damaged constant velocity, or CV, joint. The CV joints provide the flexibility that allows the wheels to turn. The inner CV joint is a plunging tripod joint connected to the transmission. The plunging action allows the axle to extend and contract as the suspension moves up and down. Power from the transmission transfers to the driving wheels through the axle shafts. An outer CV joint is splined to a hub on the axle. A rubber boot shields each CV joint and contains the lubricant.

Instructions

1

Put the wheels straight ahead and set the emergency brake.

2

Raise the vehicle with vehicle ramps or a sturdy jack on solid ground. Support the vehicle with jack stands, ramps or both for safety. If the vehicle falls, it can seriously damage the vehicles components. It can also seriously injure or kill anyone around or under it.

3

Remove the front wheels and disconnect the anti-lock brake system speed sensor.

4

Disconnect the cotter pin and remove the axle shaft lock nut cap. Have a second person apply the vehicles brakes and remove the axle shaft/bearing lock nut. Detach the engine undercover.

5

Drain the transmission fluid into a container while avoiding spills. Recycle the fluid by taking it to a local auto parts store. Federal law prohibits disposal in sewers, drains or on grass.

6

Disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm.

7

Separate the axle shaft from the bearing hub using a hammer or puller. Use a pry bar to separate the left axle shaft from the transaxle.

8

Use your hammer and a tapping fork to separate the right axle shaft from the transaxle. Be careful. Avoid damaging the speed sensor serration on the drive shaft. Toyota recommends removing the right axle shaft and the intermediate shaft as a complete assembly.

9

Manipulate the inner CV joint. Make sure it slides smoothly in the thrust direction. Ensure radial movement is free from excessive play. The expected range is between .08 and .12 inch of play in the shaft and too tight to pull out by hand.

10

Remove the CV joint boot clamps and slide the boots away from the joint. Examine the boots. If there are signs of cracks or leakage, you must replace them.

11

Mark each component of the CV joint housings, tripod joints and shafts as re-alignment references before disassembling them. After completing the reference marks, disassemble the axle shafts.

Aluminum trim on cars can endure for a long time, giving your car a shiny and smooth line of metal. However, aluminum trim can oxidize and develop pits over time, and its important that you repair these pits as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading. All that you need is some sandpaper and a good polisher, and you should be ready to go.

Instructions

1

Remove the aluminum trim from your car. Make sure that youre careful with it and that you set it down in an area thats open and clear.

2

Sand off the anodized coating on the aluminum trim. Not all trim will have this coating, and if it doesnt then you can proceed directly to the next step.

3

Polish the aluminum trim. Apply the aluminum polish to the aluminum trim in a thin layer. If the pits are deeper, then you should polish them out with an automatic grinder. If the pits arent as deep, then you can polish them out by hand using a smooth cloth. Rub in smooth strokes pushing down hard enough to keep pressure but not hard enough to bend the trim. Continue polishing until youve rubbed out the pits.

4

Apply a new coating of sealant over the aluminum trim. This is optional, but it will help protect the aluminum from the elements.

The 2003 Mazda B2300 was produced at the Twin Cities Assembly Plant, in St. Paul, Minnesota, side by side with the Ford Ranger. The 2003 B2300 came equipped with a 2.3-liter, in-line four-cylinder engine. The ignition system on the 2003 B2300 is a coil ignition type, meaning that all of the spark plugs are controlled by a coil module that meters the spark through each wire to the plugs. The spark plug wires are usually removed when changing the plugs, or in order to replace damaged wires with new ones.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the B2300 and set the hood prop. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket.

2

Locate the ignition coil -- the box into which all four spark plug wires are routed from the engine. Follow each plug wire from the coil to the engine by running your hand along each wire; as you do so, remove any wire clips from the wires, using a small flat-head screwdriver. These clips are important for keeping the wires in place, so that they do not short out on anything in the engine compartment.

3

Twist the rubber boot at the engine end of one of the wires, while pulling it up off the spark plug. Trace the wire with your hand back to the ignition coil, and remove only one wire from the ignition coil. Pay close attention to the direction the wire is routed in the engine compartment, as it will have to go back the exact same way.

4

Spread the new wires out over the front of the radiator so that you can see the length of each wire. Match the length of the wire you have removed from the B2300 with one of the new wires.

5

Install the new spark plug wire onto the ignition coil. Route the wire through the engine compartment to the engine. Insert the wire and twist it, while pushing the wire downward onto the engine.

6

Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to complete the wire replacement on the entire engine. Secure all of the spark plug wires with the clips that were previously removed, snapping the clips closed, by hand. Double-check that each wire is securely pushed onto each spark plug, and onto the ignition coil.

7

Install the battery cable back onto the battery and tighten the tie-down nut snug with a ratchet and socket.

When ball joints go bad, the result can be a vehicle and driver sitting on the side of the road with one of the front tires folded underneath the vehicle. There was a day when changing lower ball joints was challenging and still can be on vehicles with traditional coil spring suspension. Most automobiles today, however, have some type of strut suspension and are much safer to work on in the owners garage. One of the biggest challenges for a do-it-yourself individual is how to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Instructions

1

Chock the rear wheels with a wheel chock on each rear wheel. Raise the front end of the vehicle far enough that the front tires do not touch the ground, by positioning a floor jack under the engine cross member and raising the floor jack, following the instructions in the jack manufacturers owners manual. Place jack stands beneath the front jacking points of the vehicle and extend the center posts of the jack stand as far as they will go. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands, following the instructions in the jack manufacturers owners manual and ensuring the front tires of the vehicle are still off the ground.

2

Remove the lug nuts holding the wheels to the vehicle with the vehicles lug wrench and remove the wheel.

3

Remove the brake caliper, if equipped with disc brakes, from the steering knuckle, following the instructions in the vehicle manufacturers repair manual. Use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the strut in such a way that there is no pressure on the brake line that leads to the caliper and ensure the caliper will not be in the way of the work at hand.

4

Straighten the ends of the cotter pin that is in the hole in the ball joint shaft with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Pull the other end of the cotter pin out of the hole, using the needle-nose pliers. The cotter pin prevents the crown nut from accidentally coming loose.

5

Remove the crown nut from the ball-joint shaft by putting the appropriate size wrench from a toolkit on the nut and turning the nut counterclockwise until it is off the ball joint shaft.

6

Insert the fork end of a ball-joint separator, more commonly known as a pickle fork, between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle, ensuring the ball-joint shaft is aligned with the center of the pickle fork. Hit the other end of the pickle fork with a hammer, wedging the pickle fork between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle until the ball joint, which is mounted in the lower control arm and the steering knuckle have separated.

Leaks in a cars cooling system can have dangerous consequences for a car and can leave you stranded. In most cases coolant leaks can be visually diagnosed by opening the hood of the car and visually inspecting the cars hoses and cooling system. If you are lucky it will be possible to do a quick and temporary fix that will allow you to get your car to mechanic for a professional repair job. The essential thing to remember is not to drive car when the coolant level is dangerously low.

Instructions

1

Inspect the coolant level on a regular basis. The most obvious signs of a coolant leak is low levels of coolant in the coolant reservoir. Other signs include colored puddles under the car, and burning smell when the coolant drips on a hot engine. The worse case scenario is white smoke coming out of the exhaust system. This indicates that you have a head gasket problem.

2

Examine all of the hoses on the radiator and coolant reservoir. If the hose has a pinhole sized leak it is sometimes possible to see the coolant dripping from the hose. Other signs of bad hoses included blisters and bulges, soft spots, hardening, and cracks. Perform a quick fix by cleaning the hose with a rag and wrapping the damaged area tightly with duct tape. This is only a temporary fix. Replace all damaged hoses with new hoses.

3

Check the coolant reservoir for cracks and holes. Coolant reservoirs are made from plastic and can be easily cracked. If the coolant reservoir has a crack allow the car to cool down. Remove the reservoir. Thoroughly wash and clean it. Patch the crack with a plastic welding material or epoxy. Allow the patching material to dry and replace the coolant reservoir.

4

Inspect the radiator for signs of coolant leaking. The radiator itself is prone to damage from stones and road debris and from general aging. Pinhole sized leaks in the radiator can be temporarily repaired with a radiator sealant product such as Alum-A-Seal or Bars Leak. These products and similar products are available at auto parts stores. Allow the engine to cool down. Remove the radiator cap and empty the contents of the sealant into the radiator. Run the engine for fifteen to twenty minutes. Radiator sealant works well for pinhole sized leaks and smaller holes as well, however, this is a temporary fix. Take the care to the mechanic and have the radiator professionally repaired.

5

Take a close look at the water pump. The gasket and O-seal on the water pump are another possible source of coolant leakage. Look for signs of discoloration and liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump. Replace the water pump if it is the source of the problem.

6

Take your car to the mechanic if you are unable to diagnose the problem. If the coolant reservoir is continually reading at a low level and you cannot locate the source of the problem, then there is an internal leak somewhere in the cooling system that requires professional attention.

Acid rain is caused when pollutants such as nitrogen oxide and sulfur dioxide combine in the atmosphere and come down with the rain. If you wash your car after it is rained on by acid rain, there will typically be no harm done to your cars paint finish. If you are not able to wash it immediately, there might be damage to your paint. The damage will look like dried water droplets, or a white ring with a clear center. There are different ways to repair the paint, depending on the extent of the damage.

Instructions

1

Inspect the extent of the damage to your vehicles paint. There are three different levels of damage. The first level is the least severe and will need very little repair. This is where the damage is only to the surface of the clearcoat of the car. If the damage goes into the clearcoat, it is considered level 2 damage. Damage through the clearcoat and basecoat is considered level 3 damage.

2

Wash off the car. Regardless off how much damage there is, washing the car is necessary to get any residue off from the acid rain and to clean off the area you are about to repair. Once the car has been washed, dry it thoroughly and then apply wax to the area you are going to repair.

3

Repair the car paint according to the amount of damage that has occurred. For damage just to the surface, use wet sandpaper and gently sand the damaged area.

4

Repaint a clearcoat for damage that has occurred to the clearcoat after you have sanded the area. Allow time to dry and apply two to three coats as needed.

5

Repaint the basecoat and clearcoat once sanding is completed if the damage is into the basecoat. Allow one to two hours between coats and apply two to three basecoats as well as two to three coats of clearcoat.

6

Buff the area with a wool buffing pad and a buffer.

A 3800 engine is a six-cylinder, 3.8-liter engine manufactured by General Motors from 1991 to 1995. It appears on many Buick vehicles during this period, such as the LeSabre. The 3800 engine has a crankshaft damper, also known as a vibration damper. This device reduces the vibrations caused by the spinning crankshaft and prevents the crankshaft from failing. The procedure for removing the vibration damper is similar for all vehicles with a 3800 engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable to the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the right wheel assembly with a lug wrench.

2

Disconnect the right splash shield from the vehicle with a socket wrench, and remove the cover for the flywheel.

3

Connect Flywheel Holder Tool J 37096 to a socket wrench, and attach this assembly to the flywheel to secure the flywheel in place. Remove the mounting bolt and its washer from the crankshaft damper.

4

Attach a crankshaft puller to the crankshaft damper with 1/4-inch bolts. Pull the crankshaft balancer and damper from the front of the engine with the crankshaft puller.

The Jeep Cherokee has three bolts holding its rear shocks in place. Two small upper bolts/studs and nuts secure the top of the shock to the frame of the vehicle. One large shock bolt and nut attaches the bottom to the rear axle. Because the upper bolts/studs are small and depending on the age of the Cherokee when removing the shock, its not at all uncommon to snap the top bolts/studs. This repair task is easier than it may seem.

Instructions

1

Place a wheel chock against the outside tread of one of the front tires.

2

Lift the rear axle with a jack from under the rear differential high enough to place jack stands under each side of the rear axle. Make sure to place the jack stands away from the lower shock mount/bracket to allow room to work.

3

Lower the jack onto the jack stands, but leave the jack in place for extra safety and balance support.

4

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the rear of the Cherokee with the remaining tools.

5

Remove the two upper nuts of one shock with the ratchet, extension and a socket. Remove and replace one shock at a time in order to avoid stress to the rear leaf springs. Do not worry if the bolt(s) breaks. Remove the other nut from the upper bolt/stud.

6

Hold the head of the lower shock bolt with a hand wrench, remove the nut with another hand wrench and then remove the shock.

7

Pound the upper (broken) bolts/studs through the frame with the hammer. If necessary, use the punch set to help punch the bolts through the frame with the hammer.

8

Place the nut back onto the lower bolt (if removing that bolt) until the nut is flush to the end of the bolt. Use the hammer to pound the bolt out of the axle shock shackle. The lower bolt is also a type of carriage stud bolt. However, rarely do these break and require replacement because they are much larger bolts.

9

Wrap a length of mechanics wire (around 15 inches or so) around the bottom threads of one of the replacement upper bolts. Replacement bolts do not have to be carriage studs type bolts. Thread the end of the wire through the frame and into one of the bolt holes and then pull the wire down through the hole until the bolt comes through. Repeat for the other bolt.

10

Replace the lower bolt (if applicable) through the lower axle shock shackle. Again, a standard bolt is all that is necessary; however, a replacement carriage bolt is also acceptable. The carriage bolt will be drawn into the shock shackle during the nut-tightening procedure.

11

Replace the shock by reversing the removal procedure. Hold the heads of the upper bolts in place with a hand wrench through the opening in the frame while tightening the nuts. Tighten the lower nut to draw the carriage bolt in place or just tighten the standard bolt and nut.