For U Solution

An automobile driveline connects the engine to the axles, giving them the power to turn and move the vehicle. It connects the engine to these parts via a number of joints and clamps. When these parts are faulty, the car might shudder when you give it gas, or it might clunk loudly when the transmission is downshifted. The noise, as well as leakage at the joints, are signs that you need a repair. Most home mechanics can handle minor repairs, which involve replacing rubber boots and adding grease. But for major repairs, its best to take the vehicle to a licensed automotive mechanic. If you are doing the work yourself you will need access to a hydraulic car lift.

Instructions

1

Drive the car into a workspace with a hydraulic lift. Attach the lifts wheel or frame locks onto the car. Initiate the lift so that the car is suspended. Place the lift safety blocks into position to secure the lift arms in place. This will ensure the the car wont crush you if the hydraulic pressure begins to fail.

2

Locate the CV joint boots at the end of the driveline. Examine them for tears or leakage of grease and oil. If you find tears or leaks, pull the old rubber boot off the linkage because it needs to be replaced. Examine the CV link of the driveline to the axle and the opposite end at the transmission. Use a flashlight if visibility is poor. Look for corrosion or rust if the CV boot was torn, opened or exposed.

3

Regrease the CV joint and insert a new CV boot onto the driveline axle and transmission connections if the joints are in good working condition and the rubber boot was bad. If the boot is still good and shows no signs of tears or leaks, slip it back onto the joint.

4

Lower the car and bring it to a licensed mechanic if you can see clear signs of corrosion to the CV and transmission joints of the driveline. Have the mechanic lift the car with his equipment. Show him what youve observed and where the corrosion is. Have the mechanic replace the driveline and joint couplings as necessary.

Chrysler uses the Jeep marquee for its line of off-road and sport utility vehicles. The 1997 models include the Cherokee, Grand Cherokee and Wrangler. These vehicles use multi-port fuel injection, requiring the fuel pump to deliver highly-pressurized fuel. The fuel pump in a 1997 Jeep is located under the vehicle, requiring you to raise the vehicle to service the fuel pump. These fuel pumps are not user serviceable, so you must replace a malfunctioning fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. This will prevent the accidental discharge of fuel while you replace the fuel pump. Siphon fuel from the fuel tank into a gasoline container until the fuel tank is below 1/4 full.

2

Block the front wheels with chocks to prevent the accidental movement of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel sending unit.

3

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring from the field sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and brass punch. Remove the locking ring and detach the field sending unit from the vehicle. Remove and discard the O-ring on the fuel tank.

4

Remove the fuel filter from the fuel sending unit and discard it. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel pump. Release the clamp on the fuel line for the fuel pump and disconnect the fuel line. Remove the nut for the top mounting bracket of the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel sending unit.

5

Replace the fuel filter on the fuel pump and install the fuel pump into its top mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical wiring and fuel lines to the fuel pump. Place a new O-ring on the fuel tank.

6

Place the locking ring onto the fuel sender unit and turn it clockwise with the hammer and brass punch until it reaches to the stop on the fuel tank. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring for the fuel tank. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

A scissor jack is a jack designed to lift a car in an emergency. It usually comes with the vehicle and is stored in the trunk close to the spare tire or with the vehicles tool kit. It is designed to give you just enough lift to change a flat tire and get back on the road with a minimum of fuss. Most scissor jacks are very cheap to buy but not very well built. Even so, by doing a few simple repairs you may be able to get a few more uses out of your jack before replacing it.

Instructions

1

Open the two sides of the jack by turning the screw clockwise. Stop as soon as you can see the rod running straight down the middle.

2

Oil the full length of the metal rod running down the center. You can do this by using an oil can with a long spout or by putting the oil on your finger and running your finger along the rod. Make sure the oil gets into the grooves.

3

Screw the jack to its full height and put oil on the rod again. This time the rod will be on the outside of the scissor. Use the same technique of putting oil on your finger and working it into the grooves.

4

Screw the jack down again to about one-third of the way from its full height. Look along the length of the center rod. If this rod is bent, the jack is probably going to need replacement. This bend resulted because the jack popped back a groove while it was being used to lift. To fix it, you may be able to pull the jack up very hard and pop it to the correct groove. However, in doing so you will wear down the grooves further and make the jack more likely to pop back a groove again.

Unlike many other vehicles, the blower motor in a 1997 GMC Jimmy is sealed inside the blower motor compartment from the factory. A perforated access panel must be cut and removed in order to replace a faulty motor. The most common sign of a faulty blower is squealing or screeching when the blower fan is set to a medium or high speed setting. This is due to the motor bearings failing after many hours of use. Another common problem with the blower motor is failure of the motor armature assembly. In this situation, the only symptom would be a non-responsive motor despite the desired speed setting.

Instructions

Removal

1

Pop open the hood and support it with the hood prop. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with an 8 mm battery wrench.

2

Remove the bolts holding the VCM to its mounting bracket with a ratchet and metric socket. Leave the VCM connectors attached and swing it to the side and out of the way.

3

Squeeze the spring clamp holding the feed hose to the coolant reservoir with a pair of pliers and slide it away from the end of the hose. Remove the coolant feed hose from the reservoir. Remove the bolts holding the reservoir to the vehicle with a metric socket and ratchet. Remove the reservoir from the vehicle while turning it to its side to prevent coolant from spilling out. Pour the coolant into a drain pan and set the reservoir aside.

4

Disconnect any electrical connectors blocking the blower motor compartment. Remove the screws at the bottom of the from blower motor cover with a ratchet and metric socket. Disconnect the blower motors electrical harness.

5

Cut along the perforated cut lines with a utility knife to separate the upper portion of the cover from the blower motor compartment. Grip the upper half of the cover and tear the remaining section of the access cover away from the blower motor compartment along the tear lines. Cut along the perforated lines on the bottom portion of the cover with a utility knife and then tear the remaining section away from the blower motor compartment until the lower access panel is free.

6

Remove the screws holding the blower motor in place and remove the blower motor from the blower motor compartment.

Installation

7

Set the new blower motor into position inside the access panel and reinstall the blower motor retaining screws with a ratchet and metric socket.

8

Join the tabs of the upper and lower blower motor access panels together to form one panel. Cut a piece of black duct tape to the width of the lower access panel and affix it to the bottom leading edge of the lower access panel.

9

Set the access panel into place and reinstall the panel retaining screws. Align the cut areas of the access panel with the blower motor compartment and seal the cut line areas with black, self-adhesive weather stripping. Let the adhesive set for 15 minutes before proceeding.

10

Reconnect the blower motor electrical harness and the electrical connectors in front of the blower motor compartment.

11

Set the coolant reservoir into position and reinstall its retaining bolt. Reconnect the coolant feed hose and reposition the hose clamp.

12

Set the VCM into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and full re-fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and DEXCOOL coolant until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

13

Turn the ignition on and test the blower motor on each fan setting.

The heat applied to a fuel tank seam during tank construction can cause failure along the welded seam. Repairing the broken tank seam will stop fuel from leaking and causing a fire hazard. Welding the cracked seam will permanently seal the seam. Performing the weld safely requires eliminating fire hazards--including fuel fumes remaining in the tank--and using the proper tools to perform the repair.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel from the plastic tank. Remove the tank from the vehicle.

2

Pour a mixture of dishwashing soap and water into the top of the fuel tank. Slosh the mixture around, then dump the soapy solution from the tank. Repeat the procedure two more times to remove fuel residue and fumes from the tank.

3

Plug in the plastic welding gun. Set the welder to the temperature designated on the heat requirement chart affixed to the welder box. Turn on the welder.

4

Wipe the cracked seam with a clean rag soaked in the soap solution. Rinse the seam with clean water. Allow the seam to dry.

5

Run the point of a triangle file along the cracked seam to create a 1/16 inch V-groove.

6

File the raised edges left by the file from the area with 400-grit sandpaper.

7

Place the tip of the plastic welder on one end of the cracked plastic seam. Push a plastic filler rod into the top socket of the welding tip as you slowly pull the welder along the seam. Pull the plastic welder away from the fuel tank when you reach the opposite end of the cracked seam, leaving the excess filler rod attached to the tank.

8

Cut the excess filler rod from the tank with a pair of wire cutters.

9

Allow the repaired seam to cool before installing the tank back into the vehicle.

Vibratory tumblers utilize high frequency vibration and abrasive media grit to clean and polish metal parts. The vibrating action combined with rust-cutting grit scrubs corrosion from surfaces of small components without affecting detail or rounding edges. Use of more abrasive media can also remove burrs and flash from newly cast parts and stampings. By adding shine media to the tumbler bowl, tumbled metal objects receive a lective shine. Tumbler defects or inconsistent results can usually be traced to placing an improper component load on the tumbler and bowl or incorrect use of abrasive media.

Instructions

1

Inspect the tumbler bowl for holes or other signs of excessive wear. Make sure you are using wet abrasive media in the bowls of a standard vibratory tumbler. Dry media may prematurely wear out the tumbler bowl.

2

Verify that the tumbled components do not exceed the manufacturers recommended size for the tumbler. Oversize parts may damage the bowl or overload the motor. Also confirm that the correct ratio of 70 percent media to 30 percent parts for a standard vibratory tumbler is observed.

3

Allow additional time in the tumbler if parts are emerging with a dull finish or with incomplete de-burring or smoothing. Continuous running time for these processes ranges from three hours up to 24 hours. Make sure no steps are skipped in the sequence of cleaning parts and adding media to the bowl.

4

Observe proper degreasing methods if the tumbler is leaving excessive rust deposits in recesses of any parts.Try adding a commercially available metal wash for vibratory tumblers to the bowl. Make sure the proper proportion of water is added to the rust cutting media or interrupt tumbling at intervals to remove parts and rinse.

5

Optimize the use of abrasive media. Allow wet media to dry thoroughly before returning it to storage. Reuse cutting media only until it no longer cuts or polishes in an acceptable amount of time.

A luxury feature widespread in modern vehicles, power seats are convenient and safer than manually adjusting your seat while driving. Some power seats now come with features that allow the saving of personal seating perences so that each cars driver saves their individual seating perences. While power seats provide added safety and comfort, they are prone to malfunction because they are electrically driven. Note that power seats are harder to repair than mechanical seats.

Instructions

1

Test all of the available buttons. Ensure you know what features work and what do not.

2

Check underneath the seat for any blockages. Caully check the seats riding rails as well. Use a flashlight to locate and remove any blockages

3

Ensure the seat is receiving power by disconnecting the power connector and use the multimeter to test the power cable. If it is not powered, check the fuse box to ensure a fuse has not blown. If you know how to remove the power cable, go ahead and replace it.

4

Check the motor if the seat is receiving power. You may have to disconnect the motor and test it separately. If it works, the issue is probably the seat. One of its switches may be gummed up or not be connecting properly. Disassemble and replace any broken switches if this is the case.

In order to arrive at an annual repair cost for a vehicle, you have to take into consideration several factors. For instance, the age of the vehicle and whether it is a new car recently purchased or a used vehicle that has outlived its warranty can largely determine what your annual cash outlay will be. American domestic cars and foreign made vehicles may vary on annual repair and maintenance costs.

Maintenance and Repair Coverage

New and limited car warranties and the frequency of car maintenance can have a bearing on annual repair cost. For instance, new car warranties will cover tires and electrical and mechanical system problems, and theore limit repair costs for owners. Yet, eventually, cars owned between three and five years can see an average annual maintenance and repair cost of $600 per year. These repair costs can include, heating, air conditioning, cooling system or engine and transmission problems. Some new car warranties may cover these repairs for 36 months, but, "with most new cars youre on your own in covering these repair costs," according to the website Safe Car Guide.

Vehicle Reliability Rating

The vehicle reliability rating that Consumer Report provides for car owners can help to determine what the average repair cost may be for your vehicle. Consumer Reports bases its reliability rating upon at least five years of repair-cost data, along with a combination of other measurements, such as crash protection, airbags and accident avoidance. It is important to examine just where your vehicle falls on the reliability rating list, because car-brand cost is not necessarily a determining repair factor. What is certain is that the lower the reliability car rating, the higher the cost of annual repairs.

Age of the Car

The age of the car has a lot to do with the average cost for repair of the vehicle. Typically after three to five years, the factory warranties have expired and the cost will escalate as the car ages. A car that is five years or slightly older and has more than 80,000 miles on it, can cost about $900 a year in repairs, according to the website Safe Car Guide. Yet, there can be a difference is annual repair costs between makes and models. For instance, The five-year old Range Rovers maintenance and repair cost is approximately $2,000, while the Toyota Land Cruiser was lower, at $600 per year.

Cost of Car Parts

The cost of your vehicles car parts can determine whether or not you will spend several hundred dollars a year for repairs or a couple thousand. There are several Japanese and European car models that will cost more for similar repairs that are performed on a domestic American car because of higher foreign car-part costs. For instance, if you were going to replace the brake pads, rotors or small front-suspension parts on a domestic model like a Ford Taurus, the annual cost could be as low as $600, instead of possibly $2,000 for a similarly aged Audi A4, according to Safe Car Guide.

Damage can be done to the wheel of a vehicle in many ways including accidents, inclement weather, objects on the road, and road salt used for winter cleanup. Wheels are most commonly manufactured using an alloy, aluminum, or chrome. With some time, common materials, and patience, the damage to a wheel can be repaired by the owner of the vehicle at a fraction of the cost of a repair shop trip.

Instructions

1

Use water and soap to clean the wheel before beginning repair. Make sure that all dirt and old wheel-care product debris are removed. Use a rag soaked in paint thinner to remove any remaining debris. Take another rag and dry the wheel.

2

Take the masking tape and position it around the wheel, extending it below the tire. Ensure the tape is secure.

3

Rub the damaged section of the wheel vigorously using 240-grit sandpaper. Apply two-part putty to the damaged region. Let the putty set completely.

4

Smooth the area where the putty was applied using 400-grit sandpaper.

5

Cover the entire side of the vehicle with the damaged wheel with masking paper and secure the masking paper with masking tape. This stops silver lacquer or primer from coming in contact with the paint of the vehicle.

6

Disperse primer onto the area of the wheel being repaired. Remove primer that comes in contact with other sections of the wheel quickly. Allow the primer to set completely.

7

Apply silver wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

8

Apply high-gloss wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

When the washer pumps fail on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer, the first symptom you may notice is a lack of fluid coming from the washer jets when you press the spray button. Although the pumps are durable and generally last for many years, they will need repair eventually. In order to repair a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancers washer fluid pumps, the pumps must be removed from the washer fluid reservoir and replaced; the pumps themselves are sealed, non-serviceable units.

Instructions

Removal

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the front, passenger-side wheel with a lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and set it down on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and then remove the wheel.

2

Remove the screws holding the side undercover panel to the engine and splash guard, using a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the bolts holding the inner splash guard to the fender and vehicle body, using a ratchet and metric socket.

3

Disconnect the hoses from the washer pumps and allow the windshield washer fluid to flow into a drain pan.

4

Disconnect the electrical connectors on the washer motors. Remove the washer motors from the reservoir by pulling them up and out of their mounting holes. Allow any excess washer fluid to flow into the drain pan.

Installation

5

Set the new washer pumps into position and press them down into their mounting holes until they are fully-seated.

6

Reconnect the electrical connectors to both pumps and then reconnect the front and rear pump hoses. Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle.

7

Set the inner fender splash guard into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Set the side undercover into position and reinstall its retaining screws.

8

Refill the reservoir and test the washer pumps. Lift the vehicle using the jack, remove the stands, and set it back down on the ground.

Cylinders are part of a car engine. Pistons slide up and down inside the cylinders, so clean cylinders help your car engine run smoothly. A car is also more powerful with more cylinders in the engine. Rust builds on the walls of a cylinder over time, especially if the engine has been removed from your car. Rust causes the pistons to grind against the cylinder walls, damaging the efficiency of your car engine. The method you should use to repair your cylinders depends on the amount of rust on the cylinder walls.

Instructions

1

Rub the rust on your cylinder with steel wool, if there is only a small amount of rust on the walls. Scrub the cylinder walls with your steel wool, occasionally washing the wool in warm water to get rid of any excess rust.

2

Fix your flex hone drill attachment to the end of your power drill. A flex hone attachment consists of a wheel covered in metal balls, and you can use it to remove a large amount of rust. You can buy one at an auto parts store.

3

Put on your protective goggles. Turn on your power drill and gently run the flex hone over the rust on your cylinder walls. The flex hone will scrape off the rust and clean your cylinders. Oil your flex hone regularly to prevent damage to the metal balls. When you have removed all the rust, clean the walls of your cylinders using a rag.

The Pontiac G6 is a standard midsized four-door sedan that uses standard plastic enclosures to mount the side view mirrors onto the door frames. This is the same process that GM has used since transitioning from metal mirrors that bolt onto the side of the door. Since the mirror inside of the enclosure attaches with a few metal clips, removing the side view mirror from the enclosure is a relatively simple process to complete.

Instructions

1

Push one side of the mirror into the enclosure to push the other end of the mirror out. If you are repairing the driver mirror, push the right side of the mirror into the enclosure. If you are repairing the passenger mirror, push the left side of the mirror into the enclosure.

2

Slide your hand behind the mirrors edge and pull out on the mirror to force the metal clips to pop off the plastic ball on which the mirror pivots.

3

Place the new mirror inside of the enclosure and press the tabs around the plastic pivot ball by pushing on the center of the mirror with the ball of your fist.

The main stereo on a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT coupe includes an integrated CD player, as well as in internal amplifier. This radio unit sits in the center of the dashboard and connects to a number of cables, including the speaker outputs, radio antenna and system wiring harness. The radio itself is held in place with a number of screws that connect to steel brackets. In order to access the radio retaining screws, the plastic outer bezel must be caully removed from the center of the dashboard.

Instructions

Removal

1

Locate your radios security code. This code is normally on a card in your owners manual. If you cant find it, youll need to get a new code from a Mitsubishi dealership near you.

2

Open the hood and disconnect the 3000GTs negative battery cable from the battery with a battery terminal wrench.

3

Sit in the passenger side seat. Insert a flat-head screwdriver in between the radio panel bezel and the radio. Pry around radio panel bezel until it pops loose, then remove it.

4

Remove the screws on both sides of the radio holding the radio unit to the retaining brackets with a screwdriver.

5

Pull the radio out of the vehicle and disconnect the electrical connectors on the back of the radio, then remove it from the vehicle.

Installation:

6

Reinstall the radios electrical connectors and make sure they are firmly connected.

7

Put the radio back into the radio cage and reinstall the radio screws.

8

Set the radio bezel into position and press down on it so it clicks into position.

9

Reconnect the radios battery, then turn on the ignition. Press the power button on the radio, then use numbers one through four on the radio face to enter your security code.

10

Press the PROG button when youve entered your security code. The radio should beep once and then operate normally.

Keyless entry is one of those things that is taken for granted, until it doesnt work. Those tiny key fobs are complex electronic devices. Theyre dropped. They get wet. Theyre even scratched by the very keys they hold. When they stop working, its inconvenient. Replacing the key fob can be very expensive. Most cars require their own model key fob that must be purchased from the dealer. Repairing a key fob can save a lot of money.

Instructions

1

Open the key fob. Look carefully at the seam between the two halves of the key fob. There will be a slight indentation. Slip a screw driver into this notch and gently pry the two sides apart.

2

Pull out the battery. Remote keyless entry fobs use a button type battery. Take the battery to a jeweler or battery store and have it checked. In many cases, simply replacing the battery will repair the remote.

3

Clean the interior mechanism. Kept in a pocket or purse, many key fobs accumulate dust, dirt and lint. Gently blow any debris from the interior of the key fob.

4

Glue any loose pieces of the plastic cover. Use a cyanoacrylate glue such as crazy glue or super glue. These bond the plastic instantly. Wipe any glue that may have spread to the edges. Allow the glue to completely dry before fitting both sides of the key fob together.

A broken side mirror on a car or truck is among the most common of auto body problems. The plastic or mirror on the power mirror can get smashed or cracked and need repair. Replacing the broken power mirror with a new mirror will improve your visibility as you drive. A replacement power mirror is easy to install. The process shouldnt take more than two hours. Purchase a replacement GMC side mirror at an auto parts store or from a General Motors dealer.

Instructions

1

Open the GMC car or truck door. Locate the screws that hold the GMC door panel in place. Unscrew the screws with a screwdriver and remove the door panel. Pop the mirror trim out of place with a flathead screwdriver.

2

Unscrew the screws that hold the side mirror in the door. Set the screws aside. Unhook the cable in the mirror from the cable in the door. The cables should easily slide apart at the plastic electric harness that holds the two cables together. Slide the mirror from the door.

3

Slide the wire cable of the new side mirror through the hole in the car door. Use a screwdriver and the old screws you set aside to secure the mirror to the door. Connect the cable of the new mirror into the cable in the door at the plastic electric harness. Screw the door panel back into place. Pop the window trim into the door.

Floods, hurricanes and other disasters can result in cars partially or totally covered with water. In some cases, the price of restoring a drowned car to serviceable condition would eclipse the value of the car, so you or your insurance company should just scrap it. In other cases, it is possible to dry out a flooded vehicle, enabling it to provide many additional miles of safe, comfortable driving. Though drying out the interior upholstery and seats is a challenge, its more important to remove all the water-contaminated fuel, oil and fluids to ensure the systems they control or lubricate operate correctly and safely once the rest of the vehicle is rehabilitated.

Instructions

1

Drain the engine oil by removing the drain plug in the oil pan and allowing the oil to run into a drain pan. Change the engine oil filter, then replace the engine oil with fresh oil.

2

Drain the engines cooling system by loosening the hose clamp on the lower radiator hose and disconnecting the hose allowing the coolant to drain into bucket. Reconnect the hose then refill with fresh antifreeze/water mixture.

3

Drain the transmission oil by removing the bottom pan on the transmission by unbolting the bolts around the perimeter of the pan. Drain the fluid into an oil drain pan. Replace the transmission filter located under the transmission pan, reattach the pan then refill the transmission with the specified amount of transmission fluid.

4

Drain the brake fluid from the brakes, master cylinder and brake lines. Use a wrench to open the bleeder valves located on each wheel the pump the brakes until all the fluid is expelled. Add new brake fluid to the master cylinder, then bleed each brake individually to remove all the air from the brake system. Capture as much used and purged brake fluid in plastic containers, then clean up the fluid that dripped onto the tire, wheel supports or floor.

5

Remove all the gasoline from the fuel tank either using a siphon hose or by removing the gas tank and dumping out the gasoline into a bucket. Refill the gasoline tank and add gas-line antifreeze to absorb any residual moisture in the system.

6

Drain the power-steering reservoir by removing one of the hydraulic hoses, then rotating the steering wheel back and forth until all the fluid is pumped out. Capture the used oil in an oil drain pan. Refill the power steering reservoir with power steering fluid.

To work properly, xenon high intensity discharge headlights require the vehicles direct current power to be converted to high voltage alternating current. This is accomplished through a ballast, which provides a voltage to the headlamps when they are switched on. A common cause of flickering HID headlights is voltage that is too low being sent to the ballast.

Causes of Low Voltage

Low voltage in your vehicles electrical system can be caused by a defective battery, a poorly performing alternator or the use of daytime running lights. In addition, some newer vehicles have sensors that activate by sending a low voltage to the headlights when they are turned off.

Using a Relay Harness

A relay harness allows the ballast to draw electricity from the vehicle battery directly, which eliminates low voltage issues. In some cases, a capacitor is needed to work together with the relay harness to ensure proper voltage is applied to the ballast.

Incorporating High-Power Capacitors

High-power capacitors allow increased power to reach the ballast, which will then feed the proper voltage to the headlights. This is the most common fix for flickering HID lights and often solves other problems, such as eliminating the "headlights out" indicator on your dashboard display.

Installing Resistor Packs

Using a resistor pack will cause the vehicles electrical system to send the same voltage to the xenon lamps as it would if halogen bulbs were installed.

Car audio refers to the sound of either a car radio or CD player. The audio is transmitted through the vehicles speakers, although some vehicle owners may have upgraded their audio system to an amplifier system, which produces considerably more in sound. Car audio can suffer from problems such as no audio or high-pitched audio. When this happens, it needs to be repaired, either at home or at a car audio shop.

General

Car radio repair involves repairing the whine or hum of radio audio as the engine speed is increasing and decreasing. This problem is caused by an alternator that has been improperly shielded. In addition, when the wipers or brakes are activated, they can cause a voltage spike that travels into the audio system. This will affect both radio and CD audio.

Amps

The installation of car amplifiers can enhance the sound, but they are not easy to do yourself. And if youve noticed a change in your audio since youve installed amplifiers yourself, they may have been installed incorrectly. The many wiring steps for the amplifier may trip up the amateur. Plenty of guides are available online, but the best bet is to leave this to the professionals.

Mechanical

Your car audio may also be affected by other issues, such as a damaged antenna, which means you will have trouble receiving a radio signal. If you have a tape cassette or CD, inspect them before inserting them into the tape or CD deck, as they could have dust or dirt on them. In addition, sometimes the stereo system will need repair because of mechanical faults caused by dirt and moisture.

Auto body repair and shaping involves the repair of both minor and major damage to the body of your car including dents, scratches and rusted areas. This type of work requires a certain amount of skill and certain tools. An auto body repair mechanic is often used for this type of work, but if the damage is just a small dent or scratch, justifying the expense of a mechanic can be a tall order. Understanding the basics of auto body repair can help you decide whether a mechanic is necessary.

Instructions

1

Use a dent plunger to pull out dents using suction power. You can purchase dent plungers from most auto shops. For a relatively small dent, wet the dent with a mixture of water and carwash soap. Place the plunger over the dent and pull out the dent. Remove the plunger by sliding it off using the soapy water. Repeat if necessary.

2

Purchase a dent-pulling kit from your local auto store and use it to pull out larger dents. Drill several small holes in the center of the dent and screw the head of the dent puller into the holes, one at a time. Once inside the hole, claws on the head of the dent puller open and grip the back of the dent. Use a little force to pull out the dent as far as the rest of the body of the car.

Repeat the process with the rest of the holes until the dent is fully pulled out. If youve pulled the dent too far out from the body of the car, use a body hammer to reshape it.

When you are finished, the holes will need to be filled, and finished with body paint.

3

Access the back side of the damaged body of the car and use a body hammer to gently hammer the sheet metal and reshape the body. Once you have reshaped the sheet metal as much as possible using this method, turn the sheet metal over and place a metal hammer dolly underneath on the back side of the sheet metal. Use the body hammer to gently shape the outside of the body. Keep going until you are satisfied with the shape. Body hammers are usually made of rubber to minimize paint damage.

4

Fill any remaining dents and drilled holes with auto body filler. Use a metal file or sandpaper to smooth the metal. Use a putty knife to add the filler, and carefully smooth it over until you get the desired shape. For greatest accuracy, use a paper template of the original shape of the body part.

5

Follow the manufacturers instructions regarding drying time for the filler. Sand the repaired body parts with a gritty sandpaper by hand. Work your way down to fine sandpaper. Finish off the sanding with fine grit sandpaper. You will know when the process is complete when youve achieved a very smooth surface with no differentiation from the rest of the auto body.

6

Prime the surface of the auto body with a metal primer. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturers instructions. Using spray paint, apply auto body paint evenly and carefully across the auto body. Do not apply too much paint to any one section, or the paint might peel. Allow the paint to dry, and buff the paint. Apply at three to five coats and buff the paint with a buffer in between, after allowing adequate drying time.

Working headlights are a requirement for any vehicle or motorcycle on the road. Not only is it unsafe to drive without working headlights, it is also grounds to get a traffic citation. The headlight replacement process for your Kawasaki motorcycle is a simple procedure that should take less than a half hour. You will only need a replacement headlight bulb of your choice, a flat-head screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver to complete the task.

Instructions

1

Purchase a replacement headlight bulb from an auto parts store. Make sure to give them the make and model of your Kawasaki to make sure you get the right size bulb.

2

Go to the handlebars of your Kawasaki and look right below them. You will see a screw on the very top of the fairing there that you need to remove with a Phillips screwdriver. Also remove the screw on the base of the plastic bezel that is covering the access point for your headlight assembly.

3

Grab the sides of the plastic bezel and pull it firmly away from the housing to release the retention clips that hold it in place. This will give you access to the headlight assembly.

4

Insert the end of your flat-head screwdriver into the wiring harness slot and push the harness away from the headlight assembly. Push until the wiring harness releases from the headlight.

5

Grab the old bulb and turn it counterclockwise to release it from the headlight assembly. Put on a latex glove to insert the new bulb in a clockwise direction. You do not want to touch the new bulb with your hands as the oils will shorten its lifespan.

6

Push the wiring harness back into place on the back of the headlight until it clicks.

7

Put the bezel back into position. Replace any other headlight bulbs that need to be replaced in the same manner.