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The wheel sensor system on a 1998 Subaru Legacy is directly controlled and monitored by the anti-lock braking system, or ABS, computer. It order to determine which wheels are locking-up, the ABS computer monitors the speed of each wheel individually and compares that speed to the vehicle speed sensor value and the other front wheel. In the event of a wheel lock-up, the ABS computer selectively limits brake pressure until the wheels return to a normal rolling condition. Replacement wheel speed sensors are available for purchase from auto parts stores, Subaru dealerships, and online parts websites.

Instructions

Front Sensor Removal

1

Break the lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tire.

2

Locate the wheel speed sensor on the inside of the steering knuckle. It is made from black plastic and has a single wire protruding from it that runs up the inside of the strut assembly. Disconnect the sensor connector inside the engine compartment.

3

Remove the bolts holding the sensor harness to the strut assembly with a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the bolts holding the wheel sensor to the knuckle housing with a ratchet and metric socket.

4

Remove the sensor from the housing by gripping the sensor between your thumb and foinger and slowly twisting it back and forth while pulling out of its mounting hole.

Front Sensor Installation

5

Slide the new sensor into its mounting hole on the steering knuckle flange. Insert a feeler gauge between the sensor reluctor wheel and the sensor hole. Press the sensor down into its mounting hole and set the clearance using the feeler gauge. The specified value is 0.9 to 1.4 mm.

6

Install the sensor retaining bolt and tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench.

7

Feed the sensors wire up to the engine compartment and reconnect it to its primary electrical connector. Position the sensor wire bracket on the strut assembly and reinstall the bracket retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds.

8

Check to make sure that the sensor wire isnt distorted or strangled. Test drive the vehicle to make sure that the sensor operates properly and that no ABS error lights illuminate on the dash board.

Rear Sensor Removal

9

Break the rear lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tires. Remove the bolts holding the front seat cushion hinges to the body with a socket and metric ratchet. Lift up the front edge of the seat cushion and detach the rear hooks from back of the seat. Remove the lower seat cushion from the vehicle.

10

Remove the bolts holding the lower-edge of the back cushion to the body. Pull the release strap to release the folding lock on the top of the back cushion. Fold the cushion down toward the body and disengage its retaining hooks. Remove the back cushion from the vehicle. Disconnect the ABS connector thats beneath the rear seat and push the wire through the rubber grommet hole in the body.

11

Slide underneath the rear of the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and remove the bolt holding the rear ABS sensor to the backing plate behind the wheel hub. Remove the bolt holding the sensor wire to the trailing link. Pull the sensor out of the backing plate and remove the sensor assembly from the vehicle.

Rear Sensor Installation

12

Set the sensor wire into position on the trailing link and reinstall the trailing link bolt. Tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the ABS sensor into the backing plate and set the gap between the backing plate and the sensor with a feeler gauge; the specified value is 0.7 to 1.2 mm. Tighten the sensors retaining bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

13

Feed the ABS wire through the rubber grommet and into the cabin, then reconnect the ABS sensors electrical connector inside the vehicle. Set the seat back cushion into position and attach the lower seat cushion hooks to the mounting holes. Fold the seat back cushion up until it latches into position, then reinstall the seat back cushion retaining bolts.

14

Set the lower seat cushion into position and engage the rear latches with the retaining hooks on the back of the seat. Fold the seat down and reinstall the seats retaining bolts. Reinstall the tires and torque the lug nuts to lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle back to the ground, then test drive it to ensure that the sensors operate properly.

Wheel bolts, or lug nuts, are the nuts that hold the wheel to the axle of your vehicle. A Ford Aspire has one of the smaller patterns, consisting of only four bolts. The bolts are welded to the hub. The wheel slips over the bolts and the lug nuts are then used to tighten the wheel to the hub. If you are not caul, you can round the corners off of the lug nuts. If this happens, they become stuck. You can use the alligator-like jaws of locking pliers to free them.

Instructions

1

Insert the flat tip of a tire iron into the crack between the hubcap and the wheel. Wiggle it until it penetrates 1/2-inch. Pry on the tire iron to pop the hubcap off the wheel.

2

Spray the wheel bolts liberally with spray lubricant. Coat the entire bolt and nut until the lubricant is dripping off. Wait one hour for the lubricant to penetrate.

3

Open the jaws of the locking pliers. Slip them over the lug nut. The handle of the pliers should be pointing horizontally to the left. Squeeze the handle. If the handle closes too easily, turn the bolt on the end of the locking pliers clockwise and close the jaws again. You should be able to just barely close the jaws on the rounded nut.

4

Press the handles of the pliers together with both hands. Using all of your weight, force the handles toward the ground. You should be turning the bolt counterclockwise.

5

Bounce your weight on the nut until it breaks loose. If it wont break loose, use a hammer to smack the end of the handles of the pliers until the lug nut breaks loose. Finish unscrewing the bolt with your fingers, or spin the bolt with the pliers if the bolt is stubborn.

Wire wheels have significantly evolved since their first commercially-successful use on bicycles more than a century ago. Wire wheels are now widely used on many types of bikes, motorcycles, and automobiles, including race cars. They are typically made with standard hub bolt patterns covered by a center cap, so that they can fit without adapters. Wire wheel rims are connected to their hubs using wire spokes. They function similarly to tensioned flexible wires to keep the rim stable.

Lead Hammer

A lead hammer is one of the popular soft-faced hammers used in wheel changing tool kits for wire wheel equipped cars. It is an alternative to a copper hammer and is essential to striking chromed nuts without the risk of destroying them.

Typically made from lead and antimony alloy, this tool retains leads ability to strike an almost dead blow without inflicting harsh damage upon the struck surface. This makes it an ideal hammer for undoing or tightening chromed brass spinners and other materials made of copper, bronze, aluminum and plastic.

Wire Brush

A wire brush is used for general purpose surface cleaning, rust removal and conditioning of wire wheels. This tool consists of a handle, usually made of wood or plastic, and a brush made from a large number of brass or steel wire bristles. These bristles are generally made of a high-carbon metal and held together by epoxy, staples or continuous wire. For specifically cleaning stainless steel materials, a stainless steel bristle wire brush is used to avoid rusting.

Two-Eared Steel Spinner Remover

A two-eared steel spinner remover utilizes a long handle that enables easier spinner removal and replacement. Guarding against accidental over-tightening or under-tightening of spinners, the length of this tools handle is primarily designed to provide correct leverage when used. Using a steel spinner remover provides good gripping action to keep the tool secured during use on wire wheels. It also avoids damage to the spinners every time a wheel is changed.

From 1973 until 2000 all Harley-Davidson models used tapered Timkin wheel bearings on both the front and rear wheels. Since 2000 all Harleys have used sealed wheel bearings on both wheels. The current wheel bearings go on and come off as a unit with a bearing puller/installation tool. End play on the sealed bearings is pre-set. Only 1999 and earlier Harleys require that wheel bearing end play be set during installation and servicing. Sealed wheel bearing kits are available for older bikes. The sealed bearings should last 100,000 miles and the old bearings must be serviced every 10,000 miles. But it is a matter of debate as to whether the old bearings are superior to the new ones.

Instructions

1

Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

2

Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

3

Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than 0.18 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

4

Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thicknesses, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

5

Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

6

Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with lithium grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and 018 inches.

Damage can be done to the wheel of a vehicle in many ways including accidents, inclement weather, objects on the road, and road salt used for winter cleanup. Wheels are most commonly manufactured using an alloy, aluminum, or chrome. With some time, common materials, and patience, the damage to a wheel can be repaired by the owner of the vehicle at a fraction of the cost of a repair shop trip.

Instructions

1

Use water and soap to clean the wheel before beginning repair. Make sure that all dirt and old wheel-care product debris are removed. Use a rag soaked in paint thinner to remove any remaining debris. Take another rag and dry the wheel.

2

Take the masking tape and position it around the wheel, extending it below the tire. Ensure the tape is secure.

3

Rub the damaged section of the wheel vigorously using 240-grit sandpaper. Apply two-part putty to the damaged region. Let the putty set completely.

4

Smooth the area where the putty was applied using 400-grit sandpaper.

5

Cover the entire side of the vehicle with the damaged wheel with masking paper and secure the masking paper with masking tape. This stops silver lacquer or primer from coming in contact with the paint of the vehicle.

6

Disperse primer onto the area of the wheel being repaired. Remove primer that comes in contact with other sections of the wheel quickly. Allow the primer to set completely.

7

Apply silver wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

8

Apply high-gloss wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

Wheel cylinders generally come standard on rear drum brakes. Some of the older model cars and trucks have them. The wheel cylinder holds a small reservoir of brake fluid that comes from the master cylinder through a network of brake lines. By the force of pressure exerted on the brake fluid the wheel cylinder uses a piston to expand the brake shoes against the drum. Wheel cylinders can be rebuilt with a few parts and common tools. To know their inner components helps to understand how they function and what parts need periodic inspection.

Wheel Cylinder Body

The wheel cylinder body, usually cast from iron or steel, has a heavy thick construction that allows it to hold tremendous hydraulic pressure. Its hollow, smooth-bore design makes it almost a secondary reservoir in that it holds additional brake fluid supplied by the master cylinder. Resembling a regular D-sized battery in size and shape, wheel cylinders sit bolted at the top of the backing plate directly between the brake drum shoes.

Pistons

Two pistons sit inside the cylinder bore--one at each end. They have a flat surface on one side where they make contact with a cup and have a notched or recessed hole that holds a slotted brake shoe pin that slots into the brake shoe. Commonly made of aluminum for lightweight and antirust qualities, the piston receives pressure from the force of the brake pedal to expand and force the brake shoes open.

Cup Expander and Spring

A long galvanized spring sits inside the middle of the wheel cylinder bore. It has small caps welded to each end. The cap ends have convex surfaces that fit into the recessed part of the cup. When in normal mode the spring keeps pressure on the pistons to allow for instant expansion. Upon the application of force, brake fluid enters from the wheel cylinder body in between both cup expanders, allowing equal pressure to go in both directions.

Cups

The cups ride inside the wheel cylinder bore to make a perfect seal against the piston. The flat part of the cup sits directly against the piston. The recessed, or concave, part of the cup catches the force of the fluid, which drives it outward. Cups can wear or become split or brittle when the brake fluid quality deteriorates. Cups form a perfect hermetic seal and do not allow brake fluid to pass them.

Bleeder Valve

Bleeder valves, sometimes called bleeder screws, allow brake fluid to escape from the wheel cylinder or brake line. They mount on the backside of the wheel cylinder body and can be reached behind the backing plate. They screw in by the use of a tiny nut to open a small orifice. Turning them outward closes them off. Some designs of bleeder valves require a specialized wrench to reach them. Their small bore can be cleaned with a paper clip or wire.

End Boot

The end boot, or dust boot, connects to the end of the wheel cylinder. It holds the shoe pins in place, while covering the end of the wheel cylinder to guard against contaminants. A wheel cylinder leak will usually be seen at the boot end before anywhere else. They simply push on to a groove in the wheel cylinder body.

The 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4-wheel drive pickup comes equipped with four shock absorbers. The front shocks are part of a coil spring/shock absorber assembly. Separating the shock absorber from the coil spring requires special tools and is potentially dangerous. It is wise to replace the coil and shock as a single unit to avoid having to disassemble the unit. The rear shocks and coil springs are separate units, and you can replace the shocks without removing the springs.

Instructions

Front Shocks

1

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a lug wrench. Raise the front of the truck and support each front wheel with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and both front wheels from the truck.

2

With a socket wrench, remove the nut and bolt from the lower end of the shock, where it attaches to the lower control arm. If the bolt is extremely tight, attach a cheater bar to the socket wrench to gain more mechanical advantage.

3

Remove the three nuts from the top of the shock/coil assembly. These are the nuts around the top edge of the assembly. Do not remove the center nut.

4

Pull the shock/coil assembly down off the vehicle.

5

Place the new shock/coil assembly bolts up into the holes in the mounting bracket and replace the nuts without tightening them.

6

Replace the bolt and nut on the lower end of the shock, where it connects to the lower control arm. Tighten the nut to 101 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Tighten the three upper nuts to 47 foot-pounds of torque. Repeat the procedure on the opposite shock/coil assembly.

8

Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts.

Rear Shocks

9

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle by placing a floor jack under the rear axle. There should be no weight on either wheel assembly.

10

With a socket wrench, remove the mounting bolt from the upper end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the frame.

11

Remove the mounting bolt from the lower end of the shock absorber, where it attaches to the spring seat bracket. Pull the old shock off of the truck.

12

Place the new shock absorber into position. Replace the lower mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Replace the upper mounting bolt and tighten it to 53 foot-pounds of torque. Follow the same procedure to replace the opposite shock absorber.

14

Replace the rear wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

Restoring an old car involves cleaning and repairing every area of the vehicle, including the steering wheel. Vintage steering wheels feature a metal or plastic wheel with a plastic, vinyl or leather covering. Steering wheels go through a lot of wear and tear from routine use, which results in cracks, scratches and other damage to the outer covering. Restoring your old vintage steering wheel repairs those cracks, making the wheel look new again.

Instructions

1

Remove the steering wheel, and place on a flat surface covered with old newspaper. Open the epoxy, and mix the two parts, following the manufacturers recommendations. Dip the craft stick into the mixture, and smooth over any scratches, dings or chips on the wheel.

2

Rub the epoxy areas with 100-grit sandpaper, once the epoxy cures for at least 24 hours. Smooth the edges of the epoxy, before moving to the 220-grit sandpaper. Use the higher grits until the epoxy sits flush and even with the steering wheel.

3

Turn the steering wheel over in your hands, looking for any imperfections on the wheel. Cover those areas with a thin layer of auto primer. Once the primer dries, lightly sand the surface with 220-grit sandpaper, creating a smooth surface.

4

Paint the repaired areas of the steering wheel with auto paint or epoxy paint. Lightly feather out the edges of the paint with your fingers, making the new paint blend with the original color of the cover on the steering wheel.

5

Dip a piece of aluminum foil in distilled white vinegar, and rub it briskly across any chrome or metal decorations on the steering wheel. The combination removes any rust, pitting or other damage on the chrome and gives the steering wheel its naturally bright and shiny appearance.