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The thermostat in your 1993 Thunderbird is the part of the cooling system that regulates internal engine temperatures by regulating the flow of coolant between the engine and the radiator. When you first start the engine, the thermostat is closed, keeping the coolant in the engine and circulating it between the radiator and the heater core. Once normal operating temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and the coolant begins flowing throughout the whole system. Replacing the thermostat is a job you can perform with minimal tools or experience in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Locate the drain valve, also known as a petcock valve, in the lower radiator tank. Place the drain pan under the petcock valve and open the valve, allowing the fluid to drain into the pan. Remove the radiator cap.

2

Locate the thermostat housing by following the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. The thermostat housing is at the end of the upper radiator hose.

3

Remove the two or three bolts that secure the thermostat housing to the engine by turning them counterclockwise with the socket and ratchet. You may need the universal swivel to access these bolts.

4

Grasp the thermostat housing where it connects to the upper radiator hose and pull sharply up at an angle to remove the housing. Make note of the orientation of the thermostat.

5

Remove the old thermostat. Use the gasket scraper to thoroughly clean off remains of the old gasket from both mating surfaces.

6

Install the new thermostat with the same orientation as the one you just removed.

7

Apply a thin coating of the RTV silicone to both housing mating surfaces and place the gasket against the housing.

8

Line up the bolt holes in the housing with those in the engine and replace the thermostat housing.

9

Install the retaining bolts by inserting them into the bolt holes and turning them clockwise until finger tight.

10

Torque the bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

11

Close the petcock valve and pull the drain pan out.

12

Refill the radiator with the new coolant. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Top off the coolant level as needed. Replace the radiator cap. Top off the overflow bottle as needed.

13

Pour the used coolant into a suitable container and take it to a local repair shop or parts store for recycling or proper disposal.

You can pull a trouble code from your 93 Ford Mustang right from your home garage using an OBD I code reader. The Mustang comes equipped with an on-board diagnostics computer that receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from various sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When one of these sensors detects a malfunction, it sends an alphanumeric code to the computer. The computer, in turn, will illuminate a warning or service light on the instrument panel to alert you. You can purchase an OBD I code reader from any auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic port on the drivers side dash under the steering column. It is the same size and shape as the connector on the code reader. Plug the code reader into this port. Rotate it a bit to make it fit if necessary.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position but dont crank the engine. This should power on most code readers. If not, locate the "on/off" switch on the code reader and turn it "on."

3

Wait while the OBD I code reader retrieves all the trouble codes. Write them down on a piece of paper and look up their meanings in the code readers manual.

4

Turn off the code reader, if necessary, and unplug the reader from the port. Turn off the vehicle.

The Ford Motor Company introduced the F-Series "Full-Size" pick-up truck line in 1948. The new F-Series was designed with a smooth body layout and a one-piece windshield. The original line of F-Series trucks offered the American automotive consumer two different engine configurations as power-plant options. Over the next six decades, the F-Series line has remained one of the top-rated, highest-selling pick-up truck lines in North America with the F-150 consistently rating in the top 10 of sales by full-line vehicle manufactures. Maintaining the F-150 at factory scheduled maintenance intervals will extend the life of power-train components thus reducing the need for a major power-train overhaul. In the event of ring and pinion failure, replacing the ring and pinion is performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

Ring and Pinion Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the vehicles battery.

2

Raise the rear of the vehicle using a jack.

3

Place one jack-stand behind each rear wheel, under the rear axle.

4

Lower the rear of the vehicle onto the jack-stands. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported. Remove the jack.

5

Remove the rear wheels from the brake drums using a lug-nut wrench. Set the rear wheels aside.

6

Place a drain pan under the rear axle housing assembly.

7

Loosen the 10 axle housing cover retaining bolts using a socket wrench and socket. Allow the rear axle lubricant to completely drain.

8

Remove the 10 housing cover retaining bolts and the housing cover. Set the retaining bolts and housing cover aside.

9

Remove the housing cover gasket from the rear axle assembly using a gasket scraper. Make sure all of the gasket material is completely removed.

10

Locate the 10 ring gear retaining bolts in the left side of the rear axle housing. The 10 ring gear retaining bolts run through the slip-differential into the ring-gear.

11

Remove the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Set the retaining bolts aside.

12

Pull the pinion shaft straight out of the rear axle housing by hand. Set the pinion shaft aside.

13

Pull the ring gear off of slip-differential and out of the rear axle housing assembly by hand. Set the ring gear aside.

Ring and Pinion Installation

14

Insert the ring into the rear axle housing assembly. Make sure the teeth on the ring are facing to the right side. Line up the retaining bolt holes in the ring gear to the bolt holes in the slip-differential.

15

Push the ring gear onto the slip-differential.

16

Insert the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing assembly with the pinion teeth facing the ring gear. Push the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing until the pinion shaft is fully seated. Rotate the left rear wheel assembly if necessary to line up the teeth on the ring gear and pinion shaft.

17

Install the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Tighten the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

18

Wipe a small amount of rear axle lubricant onto the gasket surface of the housing assembly. Install a new housing gasket. Make sure the retaining bolt holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the housing.

19

Install the rear axle housing cover and 10 housing cover retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts using a cross-hatch pattern and a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level. Using a cross-hatch pattern ensures the rear axle housing cover is evenly seated on the rear axle housing.

20

Remove the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Fill the rear axle housing with rear axle lubricant until the lubricant is level with the fill-plug hole.

21

Install the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Make sure the fill-plug is evenly seated in the rear axle housing.

22

Install the rear wheels onto the rear brake drums. Tighten the lug-nuts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

23

Raise the rear of the vehicle off of the jack-stands. Remove the jack-stands. Lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

24

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicles battery.

Replacing the battery cables on your 1993 Dodge Spirit may be necessary if the wires have bare spots on them, have melted from contact with hot engine parts or are broken within the wire casings. Replacement cables are available from the Dodge dealer as a direct replacement, or from auto parts stores in universal styles with differing lengths. The 1993 Spirit left the factory with either a 2.5-liter or a 3.0-liter engine option, though the replacement process for the cables is the same on either engine package.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Spirit and locate the battery on the passengers side of the engine compartment. Loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable end with a wrench, then lift it off the battery.

2

Follow the negative battery cable to the engine block on the passengers side of the engine. Locate and remove the bolt holding the cable to the engine block, using a wrench. Save the bolt and remove the cable from the engine compartment.

3

Loosen the clamp bolt on the positive battery cable end, using a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery. Follow the cable down to the starter solenoid on the starter, mounted on the passengers side of the engine.

4

Remove the retaining bolt securing the cable to the solenoid, using a wrench, then pull the cable out of the engine compartment. Route the new positive battery cable along the engine to the starter solenoid and secure it to the terminal from where youve removed the old cable. Tighten the nut with a bolt until it is snug, but do not over-tighten it or you will crack the solenoid housing.

5

Place the battery cable end of the new positive battery cable on the positive battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until it is snug.

6

Route the new negative battery cable along the engine and attach the end with the brass eyelet to the block, in place of the old cable, using the bolt that youve removed when disconnecting the old cable. Tighten the bolt with a wrench.

7

Connect the battery terminal end of the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until the cable is secure.

The 1993 Toyota Camry base model came with the 2.2-Liter In-line four-cylinder 5S-FE engine. The exhaust manifold is attached to the cylinder head and routes toward the bottom of the engine, where it connects to the exhaust down pipe. There are no special tools required to remove the manifold; however, the six manifold mounting nuts, exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust pipe gasket all need to be replaced when installing the exhaust manifold to the engine and exhaust down pipe.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the vehicle hood and support it with the hood prop rod. Lift the vehicle into the air with the floor jack. Place jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Lie down under the vehicle. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire harness from the oxygen sensor by squeezing on the plug and pulling it apart from the oxygen sensor pigtail without pulling on the wires.

3

Remove the nuts and bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the exhaust down pipe with the socket and ratchet. Remove the exhaust pipe gasket and dispose of it.

4

Remove the the six bolts that hold the upper heat shield to the exhaust manifold. Remove the heat shield. Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts with the socket and ratchet and ratchet extension. Remove both exhaust manifold stays with the socket and ratchet. Remove the bolts securing the lower heat shield to the exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine and discard the engine-to-manifold gasket.

Installation

5

Remove any leftover gasket material from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold with the gasket remover and razor blade, if necessary. Set the new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifold mounting studs on the cylinder head.

6

Set the exhaust manifold onto the mounting studs on the cylinder head. Hand tighten the new mounting nuts to help hold the manifold in place. Install the lower heat shield mounting bolts and tighten with the socket and ratchet.

7

Set both manifold stays into place and hand tighten the nut a bolt. Tighten the nut and bolt for each stay to 31 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

8

Lie under the vehicle. Set a new exhaust pipe gasket onto the exhaust pipe and attach the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten the mounting nuts to 46 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Plug the oxygen sensor wiring harness into the oxygen sensor pigtail.

9

Tighten the exhaust manifold to cylinder head mounting nuts to 36 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Set the exhaust manifold upper heat shield into place and tighten the bolts with the a ratchet.

10

Shut the vehicle hood. Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

It often starts with a loud popping sound while youre turning. A worn or damaged constant velocity, or CV, joint. The CV joints provide the flexibility that allows the wheels to turn. The inner CV joint is a plunging tripod joint connected to the transmission. The plunging action allows the axle to extend and contract as the suspension moves up and down. Power from the transmission transfers to the driving wheels through the axle shafts. An outer CV joint is splined to a hub on the axle. A rubber boot shields each CV joint and contains the lubricant.

Instructions

1

Put the wheels straight ahead and set the emergency brake.

2

Raise the vehicle with vehicle ramps or a sturdy jack on solid ground. Support the vehicle with jack stands, ramps or both for safety. If the vehicle falls, it can seriously damage the vehicles components. It can also seriously injure or kill anyone around or under it.

3

Remove the front wheels and disconnect the anti-lock brake system speed sensor.

4

Disconnect the cotter pin and remove the axle shaft lock nut cap. Have a second person apply the vehicles brakes and remove the axle shaft/bearing lock nut. Detach the engine undercover.

5

Drain the transmission fluid into a container while avoiding spills. Recycle the fluid by taking it to a local auto parts store. Federal law prohibits disposal in sewers, drains or on grass.

6

Disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm.

7

Separate the axle shaft from the bearing hub using a hammer or puller. Use a pry bar to separate the left axle shaft from the transaxle.

8

Use your hammer and a tapping fork to separate the right axle shaft from the transaxle. Be careful. Avoid damaging the speed sensor serration on the drive shaft. Toyota recommends removing the right axle shaft and the intermediate shaft as a complete assembly.

9

Manipulate the inner CV joint. Make sure it slides smoothly in the thrust direction. Ensure radial movement is free from excessive play. The expected range is between .08 and .12 inch of play in the shaft and too tight to pull out by hand.

10

Remove the CV joint boot clamps and slide the boots away from the joint. Examine the boots. If there are signs of cracks or leakage, you must replace them.

11

Mark each component of the CV joint housings, tripod joints and shafts as re-alignment references before disassembling them. After completing the reference marks, disassemble the axle shafts.

A 1993 Toyota Corolla comes equipped with an OBD, or On-Board Diagnostics, computer system that reads and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors placed throughout the vehicle. The sensors keep track of all of the vehicles mechanical systems. When the air bag (or SRS -- Supplemental Restraint System) light illuminates on your dashboard, you need to have the vehicle checked right away to prevent a malfunctioning air bag. Once you have completed the repairs, reset the air bag light right away, so the computer will continue to monitor the air bag system properly.

Instructions

1

Find the fuse panel cover on the dashboard between the steering column and the drivers door. Pull down on the panel cover with your fingers to open it. It may take a good tug to release the retaining clip.

2

Locate a yellow connector inside the fuse panel and remove it from the panel.

3

Unfold a paperclip and attach each end if it to each of the terminals on the connector. This will short the light out.

4

Put the connector back in the fuse panel and replace the cover.

5

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Verify that the air bag light has turned off.

The Suzuki Cultus is a supermini manufactured by Suzuki since 1983. It is marketed under a variety of names, including the Geo Metro in the United States. The 1993 model belongs to the second-generation of this vehicle, and the United States version features a three-cylinder 1.0-liter engine with a single overhead camshaft. This engine design uses a timing belt to keep the camshaft synchronized with the crankshaft. You will need to replace the timing belt in a 1993 Geo Metro at 60,000 mile intervals.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure the engine doesnt start. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the bolts for the crankshaft pulley and remove the crankshaft pulley.

2

Disconnect the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft gears. Disconnect the plate, spring and spring damper for the timing belt tensioner. Remove the timing belt tensioner and the timing belt.

3

Place the bolt for the timing belt tensioner plate into the hole on the timing belt tensioner. Install the timing belt tensioner, and connect the spring and spring damper. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner by hand.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise if necessary to realign the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft and camshaft gears so that the arrow on the timing belt points in the clockwise direction.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to remove the slack on the timing belt. Ensure that you align the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. Tighten the stud on the timing belt tensioner to 8 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to 20 foot-pounds.

6

Replace the timing belt cover and tighten its bolts to 8 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Place the key way of the crankshaft pulley into the key on the timing belt pulley and install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolts on the crankshaft pulley to 8 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The car alarm on your 1993 Corvette can save you from having to deal with car theft, but it can also be an annoyance when trying to make minor repairs. The alarm is sensitive, so it may go off during routine maintenance. You can disable your Corvettes car alarm by disconnecting it from its power source. Since the car alarm is wired directly into the cars battery, you can disable the alarm by disconnecting the negative terminal on the Corvettes battery.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to your 1993 Corvette.

2

Use a socket wrench to loosen the negative terminal labeled with a "-" mark.

3

Remove the terminal from the battery to disable the car alarm.