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Rack and pinion steering has a number of advantages over a steering box, including more precision and fewer moving parts. This makes the steering system more responsive, according to "Rod & Custom" magazine. For those looking to become gear heads, shopping around for parts or just curious what goes on inside their car, knowing the rack and pinion steering components is worthwhile.

Rack

The rack is the part of the steering system that everything else revolves around. This is a flat piece of metal with gear notches in it. Racks come in both manual and power types, meaning that you can do all the steering yourself or get assistance from a power steering system. The rack is connected to the wheels and provides the motion that causes your car to steer where you want it to.

Pinion

The pinion is a circular piece of metal with gear notches in it. These notches meet up with the notches in the rack, converting circular motion into linear motion to make steering easier. A piston moves the pinion, which is connected to the rest of the car with tie rods. The pinion is connected directly to the steering column.

Power Cylinder

Rack and pinion systems with power steering come equipped with additional components that traditional systems do not. The main component of the power steering system is the power cylinder that provides the "power" from which the system takes its name. A series of seals surrounds the cylinder to keep it isolated from the rest of the cars engine.

Bellows

The rack and pinion system is separated from the rest of the car by rubber bellows. There are two rubber bellows, one on either end of the mechanism. These keep the rack and pinion clean. They also keep the grease-based lubricant, necessary for proper operation of the system, intact in the system.

Tie Rods

The tie rods keep the rack and piston mechanism connected to the rest of your car. They also allow the mechanism to make the necessary moves relative to the rest of your car. A loose tie rod will result in a "loose" feeling to your steering.

Ball Joint and Socket

The ball joint and socket connect the tie rod to the rest of the steering mechanism. They also allow for minor changes in the suspension of your car that allows you to steer properly. Without this component of the rack and pinion system it would be impossible to make slight turns.

The Ford Motor Company introduced the F-Series "Full-Size" pick-up truck line in 1948. The new F-Series was designed with a smooth body layout and a one-piece windshield. The original line of F-Series trucks offered the American automotive consumer two different engine configurations as power-plant options. Over the next six decades, the F-Series line has remained one of the top-rated, highest-selling pick-up truck lines in North America with the F-150 consistently rating in the top 10 of sales by full-line vehicle manufactures. Maintaining the F-150 at factory scheduled maintenance intervals will extend the life of power-train components thus reducing the need for a major power-train overhaul. In the event of ring and pinion failure, replacing the ring and pinion is performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

Ring and Pinion Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the vehicles battery.

2

Raise the rear of the vehicle using a jack.

3

Place one jack-stand behind each rear wheel, under the rear axle.

4

Lower the rear of the vehicle onto the jack-stands. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported. Remove the jack.

5

Remove the rear wheels from the brake drums using a lug-nut wrench. Set the rear wheels aside.

6

Place a drain pan under the rear axle housing assembly.

7

Loosen the 10 axle housing cover retaining bolts using a socket wrench and socket. Allow the rear axle lubricant to completely drain.

8

Remove the 10 housing cover retaining bolts and the housing cover. Set the retaining bolts and housing cover aside.

9

Remove the housing cover gasket from the rear axle assembly using a gasket scraper. Make sure all of the gasket material is completely removed.

10

Locate the 10 ring gear retaining bolts in the left side of the rear axle housing. The 10 ring gear retaining bolts run through the slip-differential into the ring-gear.

11

Remove the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Set the retaining bolts aside.

12

Pull the pinion shaft straight out of the rear axle housing by hand. Set the pinion shaft aside.

13

Pull the ring gear off of slip-differential and out of the rear axle housing assembly by hand. Set the ring gear aside.

Ring and Pinion Installation

14

Insert the ring into the rear axle housing assembly. Make sure the teeth on the ring are facing to the right side. Line up the retaining bolt holes in the ring gear to the bolt holes in the slip-differential.

15

Push the ring gear onto the slip-differential.

16

Insert the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing assembly with the pinion teeth facing the ring gear. Push the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing until the pinion shaft is fully seated. Rotate the left rear wheel assembly if necessary to line up the teeth on the ring gear and pinion shaft.

17

Install the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Tighten the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

18

Wipe a small amount of rear axle lubricant onto the gasket surface of the housing assembly. Install a new housing gasket. Make sure the retaining bolt holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the housing.

19

Install the rear axle housing cover and 10 housing cover retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts using a cross-hatch pattern and a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level. Using a cross-hatch pattern ensures the rear axle housing cover is evenly seated on the rear axle housing.

20

Remove the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Fill the rear axle housing with rear axle lubricant until the lubricant is level with the fill-plug hole.

21

Install the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Make sure the fill-plug is evenly seated in the rear axle housing.

22

Install the rear wheels onto the rear brake drums. Tighten the lug-nuts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

23

Raise the rear of the vehicle off of the jack-stands. Remove the jack-stands. Lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

24

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicles battery.