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The exhaust manifold collects the exhaust from all of the cylinders and channels it away from the engine through the exhaust pipe. An exhaust manifold that is cracked will no longer work efficiently and you will need to replace it. Leaking exhaust exposes anyone riding in the car to carbon monoxide fumes as well. It does not take very long to replace the exhaust manifold on a Ford. You can do the job yourself in your driveway with some basic tools.

Instructions

1

Cool the engine completely before you begin this project or severe burns could result. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the wiring harness from the electric fan. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator using a wrench. Disconnect the electrical wire from the heated oxygen sensor.

2

Remove the nut and bolt securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold using a wrench. Remove the bracket bolt from the oil dipstick tube using a wrench. Remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the manifold.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold by loosening the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine block. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gasket. Place a new exhaust manifold and gasket on the engine block. Tighten the retaining bolts with the socket and ratchet. Install the oil dipstick bracket and tighten the nut with a wrench.

4

Connect the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold and tighten the bolt and nut using a wrench. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet to tighten the bolts. Connect the electrical wire to the heated oxygen sensor. Install the electric fan to the radiator and tighten the bolts with a wrench.

5

Plug the wiring harness into the fan. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

When searching for the torque specifications for the bolts on intake manifolds, it is necessary to find the specs for the exact make and model rather than simply the model year. The torque specs for bolts are highly individualized. Since most manufacturers use different bolts for different engines, the specs for bolts on one intake manifold will rarely correspond to those of another intake manifold. Relying on inaccurate or imprecise torque specs can lead to serious problems. Not tightening a bolt enough can fail to ensure the proper seal, and tightening a bolt too much can cause it to break, either immediately or during times of increased stress.

Intake Manifolds

An intake manifold is a primary part of the fuel-induction system and serves as the conduit between the carburetor and the ports in the cylinder head. Manifolds come in several types and designs. For instance, Edelbrock manufacturers and sells eight series of aluminum intake manifolds for various engine types. Ensuring that the airflow specs of the intake manifold match the requirements of the camshaft, cylinder and engine helps to guarantee peak performance, and making certain that the bolts on the intake manifold are tightened to the right torque specs helps create the necessary air pressure.

Bolt Torque

Torque is basically the amount of force applied to an object in order to twist or turn it. It is usually given in foot-pounds or inch-pounds, with one foot-pound equivalent to one pound of force applied to the end of a lever (such as a wrench) that is 1 foot long. Bolt torque specs for vehicle maintenance are often based on the bolts being clean or perhaps even lightly lubricated with clean motor oil. It is common to tighten the bolts on engine components in separate cycles. Tightening all the bolts to a given torque, and then returning to the first bolt and tightening each of them to a second, and then perhaps even a third, specification.

Bolt Torque for 1997 Intake Manifolds

Here are some examples of bolt-torque specs for 1997 intake manifolds. These specs should not be applied to any intake manifolds other than the ones cited. For the intake manifold of the 1997 Ford Mustang 3.8-liter engine, first tighten each bolt to 96 inch-lbs of torque, then tighten each bolt to 15 ft-lbs and, finally, tighten each bolt to 24 ft-lbs. For the intake manifold on the 1997 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7-liter engine, tighten each bolt to 44 inch-lbs and then go back and tighten each bolt to 89 inch-lbs. For the 1997 Pontiac Firebird 5.7-liter engine, tighten each bolt to 44 inch-lbs and then go back and tighten each bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs.

The Jeep Wrangler first appeared in 1987 as a replacement for the CJ model Jeeps developed at the beginning of World War II. The Wrangler is a sport utility vehicle (SUV) available in two- or four-wheel-drive. The Wrangler is also offered with either a soft convertible top or a removable hardtop. The Wranglers stock exhaust headers may need to be removed for repair, replacement or to install aftermarket tubular headers.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto a set of automotive ramps and chock the rear wheels. Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool before getting under the vehicle.

2

Crawl under the vehicle and locate the exhaust manifolds bolted to each side of the engine block. Note the location of the exhaust pipe connections on each manifold. Spray penetrating fluid onto the upper exhaust retaining bolts that thread into the underside of the exhaust manifolds and allow it to soak in for several minutes. Loosen and remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet wrench and set them aside.

3

Open the hood and loosen the negative battery cable clamp with a wrench. Lift the cable straight off of the terminal and push it aside. Locate the oxygen sensor wiring harness on the upper side of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Press the release tab on the connector and pull it straight out of the oxygen sensor and set it aside.

4

Locate the retaining bolts on the inside of each of the black plastic front fender flares. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull each flare away from the front fender to create more working room to reach the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.

5

Label the spark plug wires with masking tape to show which cylinder they belong to. Grasp each plug wire from the base of the spark plugs and pull straight up to remove them to access the exhaust manifolds.

6

Unscrew the retaining bolts from the heat shield on the drivers side exhaust manifold with a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the engine bay and set it aside.

7

Remove the retaining bolts from the upper and lower mounting flanges on the drivers side exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Caully work the manifold out of the engine bay. Repeat for this for the passengers side manifold.

Designed to channel fuel into the engine, intake manifolds are located under the carburetor, on the top of the engine. Chevrolet intake manifolds all look quite similar and must be identified using a series of different casting numbers stamped directly on them.

Number Location

There are two sets of numbers to be aware of: model number and the date of manufacture. Chevrolet manufactured aluminum and cast-iron manifolds, and number location differs on each. Both number sets on cast-iron manifolds are normally located near the carburetor mount. On aluminum models, only the model number appears in that location. Date codes on aluminum manifolds are stamped on the underside, making identification impossible without removal.

Number Identification

The model number code will be seven digits long. Youll have to check it against a list of Chevrolet manifold numbers, as there is no method to the numbering. GM, for General Motors, is usually stamped underneath. The date code will appear as a date, for example, 9.24.66.

Other Considerations

Many Chevrolet manifolds are interchangeable depending on horsepower and other engine specifics. Identification by using casting numbers becomes important, as manifolds may have been replaced with ones from different engines over the years. People searching for manifolds at swap meets and junkyards should have casting number erence lists for positive identification.

The 2003 Chevy Silverado base model came with a 4.3-liter V-6 and a five-speed manual transmission. The exhaust manifolds are the link between the cylinder head and exhaust piping, and provide a direct path for the exhaust to exit the engine. Exhaust manifolds commonly need to be replaced because of cracking, excessive corrosion or warping of the mating surface. Because the 4.3 has two cylinder heads there are also two exhaust manifolds, each of which has its own procedure for replacement.

Instructions

Right Exhaust Manifold Removal

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack until the vehicle rests securely on the jack stands. Allow the engine to cool completely before continuing.

2

Lay down under the vehicle and locate the flange for the right exhaust manifold and downpipe mating area. Remove the three mounting nuts with the socket and ratchet.

3

Loosen the clamps for the air intake hose at the intake manifold and mass airflow sensor with the screwdriver. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation tube and remove the air cleaner adapter nut. Tilt the air cleaner tube upward to release the hinge and remove the air cleaner tube from the engine.

4

Label and disconnect the three right spark plug wires. Remove the spark plug wire retainer bolt with the socket and ratchet. Position the spark plug wires on top of the engine, marking them with tape to ensure proper placement when you reinstall them. Remove the spark plugs with the spark plug socket and ratchet.

5

Remove the engine oil dipstick and set it aside. Follow the bracket that is welded to the top of the tube to its mounting position on the cylinder head. Remove the dipstick tube bolt with the socket and ratchet. Lift the dipstick tube out of the engine block with a slight twisting motion. Wipe off any thread sealant and set the dipstick tube aside.

6

Remove the exhaust manifold and the spark plug heat shield bolts. Remove the spark plug heat shields and set aside. Remove the exhaust manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets. Clean the exhaust manifold mating surface on the cylinder head with the wire brush. Clean any leftover sealant from the dipstick tube hole with a shop rag.

Right Exhaust Manifold Installation

7

Install the new exhaust manifold gaskets to the exhaust manifold. Place the exhaust manifold into position followed by the spark plug heat shields and exhaust manifold bolts. The tabs in the gasket should hold everything in place to aid in installation.

8

Apply the threadlock compound to the threads of the exhaust manifold bolts. Set the exhaust manifold into position and tighten the mounting bolts, in an alternating pattern, 22 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Inspect the spark plugs for excessive wear or corrosion and replace as necessary. Check the spark plug gap and ensure its set at 0.060-inch with the spark plug gap tool.

9

Thread the spark plugs into the cylinder head by hand and then tighten to 11 foot-pounds with the spark plug socket and torque wrench. Position the spark plug wire retainer and loosely install the bolt. Connect the spark plug wires to their respective spark plugs based on the markings made previously. Remove the tape from the plug wires. Place a small amount of pipe sealant on the base of the tube and Install the oil level indicator tube by pushing it into its hole in the crankcase. Install the dipstick tube bracket bolt to the cylinder head and tighten to 106 inch-pounds. Tighten the plug wire bracket bolt to 106 inch-pounds.

10

Align the hinge clip with the lip on the throttle body opening and rotate the air cleaner tube downward until the stud pushes through the mounting hole. Install the air cleaner adapter nut. Direct the air intake tube to the MAF sensor and tighten the mounting clamp. Connect the PCV tube to the air intake tube.

11

Lay down under the vehicle and install the new gasket to the downpipe and install the manifold retaining nuts. Tighten the down pipe to manifold maintaining nuts in an alternating pattern to 37 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

12

Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the floor jack.

Left Exhaust Manifold Removal

13

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack until the vehicle rests securely on the jack stands. Allow the engine to cool completely before continuing.

14

Lay under the vehicle and locate the flanged connection for the exhaust manifold and exhaust down pipe. Remove the retaining nuts with the socket and ratchet.

15

Mark and label each of the spark plug wires with the tape to aid in installation. Disconnect the spark plug wires from each spark plug. Remove the spark plug wire retaining bolts with the socket and ratchet. Move the plug wires to the top of the engine and out of the way.

16

Remove the spark plugs with the spark plug socket and ratchet. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor connector and put it aside. Remove the exhaust manifold and spark plug shield bolts and stud with the socket and ratchet. Remove the spark plug shields followed by the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gaskets.

Left Exhaust Manifold Installation

17

Clean the mating surface at the cylinder head with the wire brush. Place the new manifold gasket onto the exhaust manifold and set the spark plug head shields into place. Place the manifold and heat shield bolts through the holes on the manifold; the new gasket should hold everything together.

18

Coat the exhaust manifold bolt threads with the threadlock compound and install the manifold to the cylinder head. Tighten the mounting bolts, in an alternating pattern, to 22 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Connect the coolant temperature harness to the coolant temperature sensor.

19

Install the spark plugs into the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the spark plugs to 11 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Place the spark plug retainer into position and install the retaining bolts, tightening them to 106 inch-pounds with the torque wrench.

20

Connect the spark plug wires to their respective plugs according to the tape markings on the plug wires. Remove the tape from the spark plug wires.

21

Lay down under the vehicle and install the new doughnut gasket to the exhaust manifold downpipe. Set the downpipe and exhaust manifold into position and install the mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts, in an alternating pattern, to 37 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

22

Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the floor jack.

The 1993 Toyota Camry base model came with the 2.2-Liter In-line four-cylinder 5S-FE engine. The exhaust manifold is attached to the cylinder head and routes toward the bottom of the engine, where it connects to the exhaust down pipe. There are no special tools required to remove the manifold; however, the six manifold mounting nuts, exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust pipe gasket all need to be replaced when installing the exhaust manifold to the engine and exhaust down pipe.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the vehicle hood and support it with the hood prop rod. Lift the vehicle into the air with the floor jack. Place jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Lie down under the vehicle. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire harness from the oxygen sensor by squeezing on the plug and pulling it apart from the oxygen sensor pigtail without pulling on the wires.

3

Remove the nuts and bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the exhaust down pipe with the socket and ratchet. Remove the exhaust pipe gasket and dispose of it.

4

Remove the the six bolts that hold the upper heat shield to the exhaust manifold. Remove the heat shield. Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts with the socket and ratchet and ratchet extension. Remove both exhaust manifold stays with the socket and ratchet. Remove the bolts securing the lower heat shield to the exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine and discard the engine-to-manifold gasket.

Installation

5

Remove any leftover gasket material from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold with the gasket remover and razor blade, if necessary. Set the new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifold mounting studs on the cylinder head.

6

Set the exhaust manifold onto the mounting studs on the cylinder head. Hand tighten the new mounting nuts to help hold the manifold in place. Install the lower heat shield mounting bolts and tighten with the socket and ratchet.

7

Set both manifold stays into place and hand tighten the nut a bolt. Tighten the nut and bolt for each stay to 31 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

8

Lie under the vehicle. Set a new exhaust pipe gasket onto the exhaust pipe and attach the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten the mounting nuts to 46 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Plug the oxygen sensor wiring harness into the oxygen sensor pigtail.

9

Tighten the exhaust manifold to cylinder head mounting nuts to 36 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Set the exhaust manifold upper heat shield into place and tighten the bolts with the a ratchet.

10

Shut the vehicle hood. Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

One of the oldest axioms among car guys is that an engine is essentially a giant air pump. While not technically accurate, this at least gives some idea of how the internal combustion engine works; air goes in, combines with fuel in the combustion chamber, burns and exits as exhaust gas. The manifold is just one of several air-handling devices on the engine.

Manifold Purpose

Derived from the Latin root words for "many" and "fold," a manifold is essentially a chamber designed to distribute air to the cylinders. A manifold has two basic parts, the plenum (central chamber) and the runners (the passages that lead from the plenum to the individual cylinders). Air enters the plenum through a carburetor or throttle body, then the individual pistons suck that air into the cylinders as need be.

Wet vs. Dry Flow

These terms refer to the manifolds intended application. A wet-flow manifold is one that carries both air and fuel, and a dry-flow manifold carries only air. Youll find wet-flow manifolds underpinning carbureted and throttle-body injected applications, which squirt fuel into the plenum. Multi-point fuel-injection systems typically use dry-flow manifolds, because they use fuel injectors to introduce fuel directly into the cylinder head instead of into the manifold. Dry-flow manifolds are generally more efficient, since engineers dont have to worry about the air and fuel separating around bends in the runners.

Runner and Plenum Size

Generally speaking, a smaller plenum and longer, narrower runners will enhance low-rpm torque; large plenums and short, fat runners bias more toward top-end horsepower. This works in part because the small plenum and longer runners force air to speed up as it travels to the cylinders, which fills the cylinders more quickly. However, those longer runners will ultimately limit airflow, which hinders absolute, high-rpm horsepower potential.

When an engines spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture within the cylinder, the mixture explodes and pushes the piston downward. Once the engine reaches its lowest point within the cylinder, the exhaust valve in the cylinder head opens. As the piston then travels upwards, it pushes the gases which remain from the explosion through the open exhaust valve and ultimately out of the engine. These noxious gases are commonly referred to as "exhaust," and can prove to be deadly if you are exposed to the gases for a long period of time. For this reason, the exhaust gases are routed through exhaust manifolds, which in turn carry the gases to the exhaust pipes. Between the exhaust manifold and the engine is a gasket designed to prevent the gases from escaping before they reach the exhaust manifold and entering the interior of the vehicle. If this gasket becomes damaged, it needs to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the exhaust manifold is cool by allowing the engine to sit without running for at least two hours. Exhaust manifolds can get extremely hot as the exhaust gases flow through them, and can therefore pose a serious burn hazard.

2

Remove the bolts that hold the manifold to the cylinder head with a wrench. Exhaust manifold designs differ, but most exhaust manifolds have one bolt on both sides of each pipe.

3

Pull the exhaust manifold away from the cylinder head just enough to expose the manifolds gasket. A stubborn manifold can be freed from the cylinder head by tapping the manifold with a rubber mallet, sometimes referred to as a "dead blow" hammer. The mallets rubber composition prevents the hammer from denting the manifold. Note that the manifold need not be removed from the engine compartment, which would require the manifold to be disconnected from the exhaust pipe. The manifold must only be pulled away from the cylinder head to access the manifolds gasket.

4

Remove the old exhaust manifold gasket. The gasket will either stick to the cylinder head or to the manifold itself. The gasket can usually be peeled away, but a stubborn or burnt gasket may have to be scraped away with either a flathead screwdriver or a gasket scraper.

5

Place a new exhaust manifold gasket against the manifold, then press the manifold against the cylinder head. Hold the manifold against the cylinder head with one hand, then insert the manifolds retaining bolts through the manifold and into the cylinder head with the other hand. Do not apply gasket sealer onto this gasket.

6

Tighten each of the manifolds retaining bolts in small increments with a wrench until each bolt is tight to complete the repair. Tightening the bolts in small increments is necessary to ensure that the gasket seats properly and does not warp.