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Examine battery life and quality when purchasing a new car battery. The make, model and year of a car are also considerations in purchasing the appropriate battery. Understanding the various specifications of a battery allow the purchaser to make an informed decision. An improper battery creates more difficulty in starting your car under adverse weather conditions.

CCA or Cold Cranking Amps

The batterys cold cranking amps (CCA) rating is one of the most important specifications of a car battery. The CCA is defined as the discharge loads, which are measured in amps, that a battery with a full charge delivers for 30 seconds at 0 degrees Fahrenheit and still maintains the voltage at or above 7.2 volts. The CCA rating needs to meet or exceed -- based on the climate of your area -- the cars original equipment manufacturer (OEM) cranking requirements. Colder climates especially require higher CCA ratings because of the increased power needed to crank a sluggish engine with a cold battery.

RC or Reserve Capacity

Another specification of a car battery is the reserve capacity (RC), according to the Auto Guide website. The number of minutes a battery at full charge can be discharged at 25 amps at 80 degrees Fahrenheit until the voltage drops below 10.5 volts is the definition of the RC. By connecting either two 6 volt batteries in a series or two 12 volt batteries in parallel, the RC is boosted if necessary. More RC is better whether the climate is hot or cold.

Series Number

The series number of a battery is an alphanumeric designation that matches up the correct shape and size for the model of car, according to the Cars Direct website. Series numbers appear like 24, 78R or 22F, and so on. The series number on car batterys specifications is an indication of the proper battery for the year, make and model of the vehicle.

The Nissan Versa battery mounts near the rear of the engine compartment on the driver side. You need to replace the battery right away if it loses its charge. Buy a replacement battery at a Nissan dealer or auto parts store. Save the time and money spent at a service center by changing the battery yourself. Many auto parts stores and dealerships will accept old batteries for recycling.

Instructions

1

Park your Versa on level ground and remove the key from the ignition. Open and secure the hood of the Versa.

2

Loosen the battery terminal connection on the negative battery post with a wrench. Remove the cable. Follow the same procedure to remove the positive battery cable.

3

Lift the retaining strap off the top of the battery. Pull the batterys bottom tab to lift the strap up, then move the strap out of the way. Remove the battery.

4

Insert the new battery into the compartment. Replace the retaining strap and snap it into place. Connect the positive battery cable. Tighten it with a wrench. Attach the negative cable. Tighten the connection with the wrench. Close the hood.

While battery terminal covers arent strictly necessary, many new vehicles use them to prevent short-circuiting or arcing against the car body. Battery terminal covers can be plastic, rubber or any kind of synthetic polymer that can seal the terminals against water and incidental electrical contact.

Electrical Safety

The battery terminal covers primary task is to protect against accidental contact by metal components or unwary mechanics. The negative battery terminal is grounded to the body, so accidental contact will not generally result in an electrical reaction. The positive terminal is another matter; if you complete a circuit with the positive terminal, potentially deadly current will flow through the metal tool, hand or forearm that bridged the gap. This can be especially crucial for newer cars, which may have very little clearance between the terminal and the hood, which is near enough that under certain conditions, the battery may arc to the underside of the hood, burning the paint off and damaging the battery.

Sealing and Corrosion Resistance

Although the lead battery posts and brass terminals are fairly resistant to normal moisture-induced corrosion, theyre not immune to it. Lead easily dissolves in the presence of nitric acid, which is a component of acid rain and results from a combination of vehicle and industrial emissions. Normal atmosphere always contains a little bit of nitric oxide, which turns into nitric acid when it mixes with water. Battery terminal covers are critical for keeping the terminals free of water, which may convert to nitric acid and corrode the lead battery post if the car happens to be in a high-smog environment. A battery terminal cover doesnt need to completely seal the terminal; keeping water off will suffice to prevent corrosion.

Explosion Prevention

Almost all batteries produce hydrogen while recharging, which can be a serious problem, since many vehicles incorporate the battery as a link in the electrical system. Such vehicles are always pulling power from the battery, so the alternator must constantly recharge it. Hydrogen gas buildup isnt normally a problem, but explosions are possible. Battery terminal covers prevent arcing and deny the gas a source of ignition, making electrical insulation doubly important.

Color Coding

If youve ever had to jump-start a car in the dark, then you know how difficult it can be to identify the positive and negative terminals if they arent color-coded. While the battery itself will carry a stamping or sticker to indicate the positive and negative terminals, these will do little good in the dark. Bright red or yellow positive battery terminal covers are far more apparent in low light conditions than any marking on the battery itself, and help to prevent a possibly expensive mistake.

The 1996 Chevrolet Lumina is a mid-size vehicle available as a four-door sedan and minivan. The Lumina was redesigned for 1995, and this second-generation design would carry over through 2001.

Battery Size

When replacing a battery, it is important to know the physical size of the battery that is needed. Most cars are designed to accommodate one specific size of battery in the engine compartment. These numerical two-digit sizes take into account the length, width and height of the battery. The 1996 Chevrolet Lumina accommodates battery size 75.

Cold-Cranking Amps

The next consideration is the cold-cranking amps of a battery --- how much "juice" it takes to get the car started on a cold day. Cold-cranking amps are the number of amperes a vehicle battery can provide for 30 seconds and maintain an effective amount of voltage per cell in 0 degree weather. The Chevrolet Lumina requires a battery with 600 cold-cranking amps. It is acceptable to purchase a battery with higher cold-cranking amps than the minimum recommendation, especially if you live in a cold climate.

Reserve Capacity

Battery shoppers can compare batteries by their advertised reserve capacity. Chevrolet does not recommend any particular reserve capacity, but it is wise to purchase a battery that offers the greatest reserve capacity within your budget.

Almost all cars have the battery circuit in common. The battery drain on a 1969 Camaro will be related to the same causes as drain in a 2005 Explorer. In most circumstances, the drain is caused by short or open circuits, but other drains may be due to alternator failure, battery failure or improper battery maintenance.

Lights

If the light switch is accidentally left in an on position it could cause the battery to die rapidly. Despite their small size, dome lights can consume a lot of power quickly and are easy to leave accidentally activated. The door may be ajar just enough to allow the spring-loaded switch to stay in the on position. Another problem with lights, especially in older vehicles, is a tendency of the brake pedal to sag a little against the retaining spring.

Worn Ignition Switch

A worn ignition switch may allow the key to be removed while the ignition is still in the on position. It may appear that the ignition is properly off at a glance, but the slot is still slightly turned, allowing electricity to flow throughout the cars systems. Symptoms might include the key coming out of the ignition while the car is still running or blower fans still operating after the key is removed. Where the car radio is concerned, some are installed so that they operate independently of the ignition and may pose a battery drain risk for that reason alone if left on when the car is unattended.

Electrical Shorts

The wiring harness may have weathered a bit on a 1969 Camaro, allowing wires to be rubbed against sharp surfaces. Over time this can cause the insulation to be stripped off the wire and short, or it could cause binding that eventually stretches the wiring to a breaking point. Other electrical shorts may be related to springs that have worn out in switches such as electric windows. The severity of the drain will depend on the type and conditions of the short, but even a minor short will cause battery drain over time.

Shorted Alternator Diode

An alternator is a charging system for your battery. To prevent the electricity from flowing back to the alternator when the engine is off, a special blocking diode is installed. If this part fails, power flows back from the battery to the alternator and may even reach other systems that are directly connected in the circuit.

Battery Problems

Car batteries get old and stop functioning as well. If a cell goes bad in the battery and cannot hold a charge, it could create a constant internal drain on the battery as current is pushed through the dead zone. Another common problem is when a battery is not properly maintained and corrosion builds up on the terminals. This prevents the alternator from supplying a charge current, and allows the battery to drain as electrical systems are used.

The DRZ 400 is a motocross bike that is as comfortable on the street as it is on the track. Japanese manufacturer Suzuki built the bike with a 400-cubic-centimeter engine. It is no longer in production, haven given way to a newer model with a 450-cc engine displacement. Like most modern motorcycles, the battery is wired using two terminals, one positive and one negative. It is best operated with a maintenance-free 12-volt motorcycle battery that requires no acid pack for activation and no assembly after purchase.

Instructions

1

Remove the screw that secures a cover panel on the rear-left side of the DRZ 400, just in front of the rear wheel. Pull the cover panel off to reveal the battery compartment.

2

Slide a battery into the compartment with the terminals facing up and out.

3

Slip the rectangular nut into the positive terminal, which is indicated by a "+" sign. Hold the positive (red) battery cable on top of the terminal and drop the battery screw through the cable and into the nut. Tighten the screw by turning clockwise with a screwdriver until the screw and cable are secure against the terminal.

4

Repeat Step 4 for the negative (black) battery cable on the DRZ 400.

5

Place the rubber terminal covers over the battery and the battery protector on top of the terminal covers. Press the decorative cover plate over the battery compartment and replace the screw by turning clockwise with a screwdriver until the cover is snug against the frame of the bike.

Car batteries provide the electric current to start the engine and power the electrical appliances in the car. The battery in a Chrysler 300M is located under the right, front fender, in front of the wheel. The car battery must be replaced, periodically, to ensure the electrical systems continue to operate properly. The owner can remove the battery, but he must take special precautions, to ensure it is done correctly and safely.

Instructions

1

Put on protective gloves, and open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery cable booster post. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the retaining bolt, and secure it, away from the post. Loosen the air intake duct hose clamp, using a socket wrench, and pull it away from the housing. Unhook the latches attaching the air filter cover to its housing, using your hands. Lift the cover and air filter out of the vehicle. Lift the air filter housing upwards and away from the inner wall, and place it outside the car.

2

Unscrew the two bolts located under the air filter housing, which hold the battery hold-down clamp, using a socket wrench. Remove the clamp.

3

Raise the front, right side of the car, using a jack. Use jack stands underneath the front frame for support.

4

Remove the front, right wheel. Unscrew the nuts, using a lug wrench. Take the wheel off the car.

5

Remove the five screws, securing the battery cover to the inner fender wall, and remove the cover. Slide the battery towards the rear of the vehicle, so the battery terminals become accessible. Loosen the negative battery cable retaining bolt with a socket wrench. Repeat this process on the positive cable bolt. Pull the clamps off the battery terminals.

6

Remove the battery from the 300M.

Replacing the battery in a 2005 Mazda Tribute is a fairly standardized procedure. However, it may be helpful to use a computer memory saver device on vehicles made after the 2000 model year. These devices often save the preset stations and clock time, and they prevent the cars computer from being reset during the battery replacement. The 2005 Tribute features two engine choices: a 2.3-liter, four-cylinder motor or a 3.0-liter, six-cylinder engine.

Instructions

1

Place the 9-volt battery (if applicable) into the computer memory saver, and plug it into the cigarette lighter or power source for the 2005 Mazda Tribute. There are different types of memory saver devices for cars, and instructions vary.

2

Turn off all power sources in the Tribute. Remove the key from the ignition. Open the hood.

3

Locate the battery. In the 2005 Tribute, the battery is in the front of the engine compartment directly behind the drivers side headlight.

4

Remove the nuts on the battery hold-down bracket located at the top of the Tributes battery by using the ratchet and a socket.

5

Loosen the negative terminal clamp with the ratchet and a socket. The negative battery terminal clamp has a black wire running to the clamp and either the letters "NEG" or a minus sign stamped on the battery housing near the clamp. Use the channel locks on the terminal clamp once its loosened to wiggle the clamp back and forth and remove the clamp from the battery post. Repeat the procedure for the red-wire positive terminal clamp.

6

Hoist the battery out of the engine compartment.

7

Clean the battery terminals with the battery terminal cleaner and wire honing brush to remove any corrosion on the clamps.

8

Insert the replacement battery into the tray. Align the posts with the appropriate side and clamp (negative post to negative cable and cl positive post to positive cable and clamp).

9

Connect the red-wire positive terminal clamp to the positive battery post first. Tighten the clamp with the ratchet and a socket. Repeat for the negative battery terminal clamp and post.

10

Spray the battery terminal clamps and post tops with battery corrosion protection solution.

11

Remove all tools from the engine compartment. Close the hood.

12

Unplug the computer memory saver from the power outlet. Disconnect the 9-volt battery from the memory saver (if applicable).

Replacing the battery cables on your 1993 Dodge Spirit may be necessary if the wires have bare spots on them, have melted from contact with hot engine parts or are broken within the wire casings. Replacement cables are available from the Dodge dealer as a direct replacement, or from auto parts stores in universal styles with differing lengths. The 1993 Spirit left the factory with either a 2.5-liter or a 3.0-liter engine option, though the replacement process for the cables is the same on either engine package.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Spirit and locate the battery on the passengers side of the engine compartment. Loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable end with a wrench, then lift it off the battery.

2

Follow the negative battery cable to the engine block on the passengers side of the engine. Locate and remove the bolt holding the cable to the engine block, using a wrench. Save the bolt and remove the cable from the engine compartment.

3

Loosen the clamp bolt on the positive battery cable end, using a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery. Follow the cable down to the starter solenoid on the starter, mounted on the passengers side of the engine.

4

Remove the retaining bolt securing the cable to the solenoid, using a wrench, then pull the cable out of the engine compartment. Route the new positive battery cable along the engine to the starter solenoid and secure it to the terminal from where youve removed the old cable. Tighten the nut with a bolt until it is snug, but do not over-tighten it or you will crack the solenoid housing.

5

Place the battery cable end of the new positive battery cable on the positive battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until it is snug.

6

Route the new negative battery cable along the engine and attach the end with the brass eyelet to the block, in place of the old cable, using the bolt that youve removed when disconnecting the old cable. Tighten the bolt with a wrench.

7

Connect the battery terminal end of the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until the cable is secure.

Charging a 7 amp hour (AH) sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a 10AH charger can be done, but it is detrimental to the health of your battery. Charging a battery with the wrong charger results in overcharging or undercharging.

Amp Hours

The capacity of a 7AH battery is significantly less than a 10AH battery. Since the 10AH battery holds a greater capacity, its charger provides an increased electrical flow. Using a 10AH charger with a 7AH battery results in overcharging. Unplugging the battery early results in undercharging.

Overcharging

Overcharging is caused by thermal runaway. Increased voltage will decompose the water in the electrolytes of the battery. Overheating occurs, allowing more voltage to enter the battery. Overcharging ages batteries very quickly.

Undercharging

Undercharging occurs when lower voltage is applied to a battery. Charging ends early and lead sulfate adheres to the electrodes. Due to the remaining lead sulfate, capacity is reduced. Removing a battery early also results in an incomplete charge. The risk of residual lead sulfate damage is still present. Charge your batteries completely to avoid diminished capacity.

Automotive batteries come with either top mount or side mount terminal applications. Top mount batteries require battery cables with clamps that secure over the battery posts. Side mount batteries require cables that have a bolt that threads into the battery. Battery cable bolts can corrode and crack requiring replacement of the bolt. The bolt fits into a groove or channel inside the end of the battery cable. Removing the bolt on a battery cable requires basic brute force and some manipulating of the cable.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery with a wrench. The negative cable is the black cable and the terminal hole has a - stamp near it. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery in the same manner.

2

Grasp the sides of the battery cable where it surrounds the terminal bolt. Bend one of the sides down with your thumb and push the thread end of the bolt to walk the bolt out of the cable end. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to hold one side while you bend the other with your fingers. The hard rubber cable end does bend, but it requires some effort.

3

Hold the battery cable end with your fingers. Insert the threaded end of the new bolt into the battery cable at an angle to insert one of the sides of the bolt ring into the groove in the cable end

4

Twist the bolt with your fingers to thread the ring all the way into the groove, much like you would insert a bicycle rim into a tire. Bend and manipulate the end of the cable as necessary until the ring of the bolt is within the groove and the bolt spins freely with your fingers.

5

Connect the battery cables back into the battery starting with the positive cable first. Tighten the battery bolts to the battery with a wrench.

If your car battery is not going to be used for a while, it may be prudent to store it. An urban myth exists that storing a car battery on concrete will reduce its life. According to several battery manufacturers such as Interstate and Continental, this is simply not true. However, to extend the life of your battery, it is important the battery be properly stored and maintained, regardless of whether it is stored on concrete or some other surface. This includes cleaning your battery, fully charging it, checking the electrolyte level and monitoring it.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your car.

2

Disconnect the positive (red) battery cable and then disconnect the negative (black) cable.

3

Clean the battery container and terminals. Apply baking soda to any corrosion on the battery terminals.

4

Check the batterys electrolyte level, indicated by a vent splash band on the battery. Remove the batterys vent cap and add distilled water as needed to bring electrolyte levels to the bottom of the vent walls.

5

Hook your battery up to a battery charger that is matched to the batterys size.

6

Charge the battery for 10 to 12 hours.

7

Remove the battery from the charger.

8

Place the battery on a flat, concrete surface in a cool, dry place. The temperature should never be below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

9

Check the battery every two months. Use a voltmeter or state-of-charge indicator to see if the battery needs to be recharged.

Normally, a new car battery does not need to be charged--it is already fully charged. However, if it is necessary to charge a new car battery, you do not need to follow any special procedures. Just follow the procedures required for safely charging any car battery--regardless of age. Always wear protective eye goggles and gloves whenever charging a battery and never allow any of the corrosive residue around the poles of the battery to come into direct contact with your skin. Never smoke or allow an open flame near a battery because this could cause an explosion.

Instructions

1

Clean the battery posts if corrosion is on them. Put 2 tbsp. of baking soda in a small container and then add enough water to make a thin paste. Brush this paste onto the corrosion (it may bubble and fizz) and wash off with clean water.

2

Remove the plastic caps over the battery cells unless your battery is maintenance-free and the caps are non-removable. If the caps are removable fill each battery cell with distilled water (never tap water) until the tops of the plates are just covered. Do not overfill. Replace the caps after filling. If your maintenance-free battery shows a red light, then the battery must be replaced, not charged.

3

Remove the cables connecting the battery to the vehicle. Use a small crescent wrench or box-end wrench to loosen the nuts around the battery connectors and loosen the connectors. Remove the red (+) wire first and then the black (-) wire. Connect the red (+) charger wire to the red (+) post of the battery. Twist the connector slightly to ensure a good connection. Connect the black (-) charger wire to an exposed metal part of the engine block. Twist this connector slightly to ensure a good, solid connection.

4

Move the charger as far from the battery as the wires allow it to go and then plug it in. Set the charger (if settings are available) to the 12-volt setting at 6 to 12 amps, assuming your vehicle has a 12-volt battery. If your charger only indicates high or low charging, select high for automobile batteries, or low for motorcycle batteries.

5

Unplug the charger and remove the red (+) wire from the battery and then remove the black (-) wire from the vehicles frame after six hours unless your charger automatically shuts off when the charge is complete. Always unplug the charger first, and then remove the battery cables.

6

Reconnect the cars battery cables. Connect the red (+) cable first and then the black cable. You will need a small crescent wrench or a box-end wrench to tighten the battery cables.

7

Start the car and allow it to run for 20 minutes or drive the car for approximately three miles to ensure that the battery has a good charge.

Regardless of how old, new, cheap or expensive your automobile is, without a properly functioning car battery it becomes pointless. Car batteries can die, or become flat, for a variety of reasons. While some of these reasons are hard to prevent, others can be prevented with proper maintenance and care.

Signs and Symptoms

The most obvious sign of a flat battery is when you turn the ignition key and the car doesnt start. If the car battery is flat, you will not hear any sounds when the ignition key is turned. If the dashboard lights illuminate briefly and then go out, that is another sign of a flat car battery. Sometimes the battery is not entirely flat, but is about to die. If this is the case, the car engine will struggle to start. The dashboard lights will dim while the key is turning the ignition. These lights will not get brighter, nor will they go out completely.

Causes

Leaving on any kind of light, such as an interior light or a headlight, can cause the battery to become flat. Automobiles that are parked for a long period of time -- several weeks -- can also suffer from a flat battery. Often, the battery has simply worn out due to excessive use and needs to be replaced. Always make sure all lights associated with your vehicle have been turned off before you walk away. A bad alternator or starter can also cause the battery to become flat.

Recharging

Jumper cables can be used to bring new life into a flat battery. To start, place two cars next to each other so that the cables can reach each battery. Obviously, one of the two batteries should be fully functional. Make sure both cars are completely off to begin with. The jumper cables will have two leads on each end: one red and one black. The car battery will have both positive and negative terminals, which will be clearly marked. Starting with the dead battery, connect the red lead to both positive terminals. Then connect the black lead to the functioning batterys negative terminal and the other black lead to a bare metal part on the dead cars engine. Start the car with the good battery and let it run for a few minutes so that it can charge the dead one. Turn off the car and remove the cables. The dead battery should now be charged and ready to go.

Buying New Batteries

Before purchasing a new car battery, make sure the old battery is actually dead. In some cases the battery might be fine but the terminals, or the knobs on the battery that connect wires to the alternator, may be corroded due to sulfate buildup. You can use a hammer to try and break this corrosion away or a mixture of baking soda and water. Rub this mixture on the corroded terminals with a toothbrush to see if the corrosion will scrub off. If that battery is still not connecting, and jumper cables did not help, simply go and buy a new battery. Remember to recycle the dead battery. You may do this at a recycling center, service garage or auto supply store.

Car batteries work when the chemical reactions in the battery cause electrons to gather at the negative terminal. Turning the key into the "on" position connects a circuit between the negative and positive terminal, causing the electrons to rush from the negative terminal to the positive, providing the spark necessary to power the starter engine and turn the car over. When a car battery dies, it means there is a shortage of electrons gathering at the negative terminal. Car battery chargers work by reversing the flow of electrons from the positive terminal to the negative terminal, eventually causing enough electrons to gather at the negative terminal for a quick current to run from the negative terminal to the positive terminal when the circuit is connected. Testing the effectiveness of a car battery charger requires a field experiment whereby you connect the charger to a dead or dying battery and turning it on.

Instructions

1

Clean the terminals of your battery sufficiently with a clean cloth.

2

Connect the alligator clips of your charger to the terminals of your battery. Connect the negative (black) alligator clip of your charger to the negative terminal of your battery before connecting the positive (red) alligator clip.

3

Plug your battery charger into a wall socket if it is DC/outlet powered, or turn it on if it is AC battery powered.

4

Wait two to three minutes or the specified amount of time indicated in the operators manual that came with your specific battery charger. For most car battery chargers, two to three minutes is sufficient to check whether the charger itself is functional, as it will likely charge the battery enough to turn your car over.