Saturday, February 22, 2014
How to Stop Vapor Lock in a Camaro
Although vapor lock is almost unheard of today, some older Camaros are still plagued with the problem. Vapor lock occurs when fuel in the metal fuel lines between the fuel tank and fuel pump vaporizes and an engine-mounted fuel pump draws the vapor into the pump causing it to lose its prime. With no fresh fuel being pumped to the carburetor, the float bowl empties out and kills the engine. Some older model Camaros were famous for this because the air temperature under the hood was so high due to the design of the vehicle.
Instructions
- 1
Locate the metal fuel lines under the hood. Ensure that no modifications have been made to the lines that bring them close to the exhaust manifolds. Reroute the lines away from any heat sources.
2Wrap the metal lines with foam waterline insulating tubing. The added insulation will keep the lines from overheating.
3Loosen and remove the bottom two bolts of the fuel pump with a three-eighths-inch drive, one-half-inch socket mounted on a 6-inch extension, connected to a three-eighths-inch drive ratchet wrench.
4Slip the two bolts through the mounting holes of a fuel pump heat shield. Slide the bolts back through the water pump mount and thread them back into the engine block until they are tight. Ensure that the heat shield is positioned between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump.
Wednesday, February 5, 2014
Causes of Battery Drain in a 1969 Camaro
Almost all cars have the battery circuit in common. The battery drain on a 1969 Camaro will be related to the same causes as drain in a 2005 Explorer. In most circumstances, the drain is caused by short or open circuits, but other drains may be due to alternator failure, battery failure or improper battery maintenance.
Lights
If the light switch is accidentally left in an on position it could cause the battery to die rapidly. Despite their small size, dome lights can consume a lot of power quickly and are easy to leave accidentally activated. The door may be ajar just enough to allow the spring-loaded switch to stay in the on position. Another problem with lights, especially in older vehicles, is a tendency of the brake pedal to sag a little against the retaining spring.
Worn Ignition Switch
A worn ignition switch may allow the key to be removed while the ignition is still in the on position. It may appear that the ignition is properly off at a glance, but the slot is still slightly turned, allowing electricity to flow throughout the cars systems. Symptoms might include the key coming out of the ignition while the car is still running or blower fans still operating after the key is removed. Where the car radio is concerned, some are installed so that they operate independently of the ignition and may pose a battery drain risk for that reason alone if left on when the car is unattended.
Electrical Shorts
The wiring harness may have weathered a bit on a 1969 Camaro, allowing wires to be rubbed against sharp surfaces. Over time this can cause the insulation to be stripped off the wire and short, or it could cause binding that eventually stretches the wiring to a breaking point. Other electrical shorts may be related to springs that have worn out in switches such as electric windows. The severity of the drain will depend on the type and conditions of the short, but even a minor short will cause battery drain over time.
Shorted Alternator Diode
An alternator is a charging system for your battery. To prevent the electricity from flowing back to the alternator when the engine is off, a special blocking diode is installed. If this part fails, power flows back from the battery to the alternator and may even reach other systems that are directly connected in the circuit.
Battery Problems
Car batteries get old and stop functioning as well. If a cell goes bad in the battery and cannot hold a charge, it could create a constant internal drain on the battery as current is pushed through the dead zone. Another common problem is when a battery is not properly maintained and corrosion builds up on the terminals. This prevents the alternator from supplying a charge current, and allows the battery to drain as electrical systems are used.
Thursday, December 12, 2013
How to Replace the Upper Ball Joint on a 1969 Camaro
The 1969 Chevy Camaro is one of the legendary muscle cars. The Camaro was Chevys competitive answer to the Ford Mustang. The Camaro was born in September 1966, when Chevy offered the first 1967 model Camaro for sale. The first-generation Camaro ran from 1967 through 1969. The Camaro appealed to many, and it came equipped with an inline six-cylinder engine for the grocery-getter crowd and a big-block Chevy engine for the muscle car lovers. The car was a unitized body construction with a bolt on front stub. The car also became immensely popular as a short-track stock car.
Instructions
- 1
Park the Camaro on a solid, level surface. Block the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels a half-turn, but dont remove them.
2Place a floor jack under the front center frame of the car, and raise the front wheels off the ground. Remove the front wheels. Insert wooden blocks under the lower A-arms, and lower the jack to bring the car down onto the blocks.
3Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the upper ball joint. Loosen and remove the large castle nut from the upper ball joint.
4Grind the rivet heads off the four rivets that mount the ball joint to the upper A-arm. After grinding off the rivet heads, the pin circle of the rivet will appear. Use a punch smaller than the rivet pin circle to punch the rivet out of the upper A-arm.
5Insert a ball joint pickle fork between the top of the spindle and the ball joint. Strike the rear shaft of the pickle fork with a hammer to free the ball joint taper of the spindle. Swing up the upper A-arm, and remove the old ball joint.
6Install the new ball joint and the rubber boot into the upper A-arm, using the included bolts instead of rivets. Tighten the four small bolts and lock nuts that secure the ball joint to the A-arm. Align the ball joints tapered shaft with the upper spindle hole, and push the shaft into the spindle. Insert the castle nut onto the ball joint shaft, and tighten it. Insert the cotter pin through the castle nut, and spread the cotter pin so it stays in place. Thread the grease zerk into the ball joint.
7Jack up the Camaro, put the front wheels back on the car, and tighten all the lug nuts. Lower the car to the ground.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
The Location of the IAC in a 95 Camaro
The idle air control solenoid on the 1995 Chevrolet Camaro with the 3.4L engine is located directly above the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. The IAC controls engine idle by controlling airflow into the intake manifold through a chamber that bypasses the throttle plate. A faulty IAC can cause a lower- or higher-than-normal engine idle. If the engine idle is incorrect, the check engine lamp could illuminate, setting diagnostic trouble code 35 in the PCM.
Instructions
- 1
Remove the negative battery cable from the battery, and then disconnect the electrical connector to the IAC. Using a screwdriver bit set; remove the two IAC mounting screws. Pull the IAC out of its orifice. You may have to pry it out by placing a flat-head screwdriver between the IAC mounting flange and the throttle body assembly.
2Inspect the seat that the IAC pintle was resting on. Its normal for the pintle seat to be shiny where the pintle rests. Remove the rubber seal and inspect the sealing surface. Inspect the IAC air passages for carbon deposits. Use an approved throttle body cleaner and a parts cleaning brush to clean away lite carbon deposits. If you find heavy deposits, it may be necessary to remove the throttle body to thoroughly clean the passages.
3Compare the new IAC valve with the old one. The diameter and shape of the pintle on both valves should be identical. If you are installing a new IAC valve, measure the distance between the tip of the pintle and the mounting flange. If the distance is greater than 28 mm, use your finger to slowly retract the pintle.
4Lightly coat the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil and install it into the provided cavity. Insert the new idle air control valve. Coat the mounting screws with a thread-lock compound and install the mounting screws for the IAC. Snug down both screws evenly. Using the screwdriver bit set and torque-wrench, torque the screws to 30-inch pounds. Connect the electrical connector to the IAC.
5Hook up the negative battery cable. Since the battery cable has been disconnected, the memory of the PCM has already been reset. Start the vehicle and allow it to warm up. This process will automatically allow the vehicles computer to reset the pintle position. Check for proper idle operation.