For U Solution

Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.

Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Raise the front of your Jeep off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front suspension, and remove the jack.

Slide under the center of your Jeep and locate the transmission oil pan on the bottom of the transmission. Place a large oil drain pan under the transmission pan to catch the oil when you remove it.

Loosen the bolts around three edges of the transmission pan with a socket and ratchet, but do not completely remove them. Slowly loosen the bolts on the remaining edge of the pan, allowing the opposite side of the pan to come away from the transmission. Drain the oil into the drain pan.

Remove all the bolts around the edge of the pan slowly, and then lower it away from the transmission. Leave the drip pan under the transmission for a while, allowing any oil or fluid to fully drain.

Locate the four retaining screws in the bezel that surrounds the headlight on the grille of the Jeep. Remove the screws with a Phillips head screwdriver then pull the bezel off the front of the Jeep. Set it aside to avoid damage to the plastic bezel.

Remove the two retaining screws in the ring that surrounds the sealed beam headlight with a Phillips head screwdriver then remove the metal retaining ring from around the headlight. Be sure to hold the sealed beam headlight in place when you remove the ring, or it will fall out.

Pull the sealed beam headlight bulb straight out until you can access the electrical connector on the back of the bulb. Pull the connector straight off the bulb and set it aside.

Slide the sealed beam headlight bulb out of the front of the grille. Set the bulb aside and repeat the process to remove the opposite headlight if necessary.

Place a wheel chock against the outside tread of one of the front tires.

Lift the rear axle with a jack from under the rear differential high enough to place jack stands under each side of the rear axle. Make sure to place the jack stands away from the lower shock mount/bracket to allow room to work.

Lower the jack onto the jack stands, but leave the jack in place for extra safety and balance support.

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the rear of the Cherokee with the remaining tools.

Remove the two upper nuts of one shock with the ratchet, extension and a socket. Remove and replace one shock at a time in order to avoid stress to the rear leaf springs. Do not worry if the bolt(s) breaks. Remove the other nut from the upper bolt/stud.

Hold the head of the lower shock bolt with a hand wrench, remove the nut with another hand wrench and then remove the shock.

Pound the upper (broken) bolts/studs through the frame with the hammer. If necessary, use the punch set to help punch the bolts through the frame with the hammer.

Place the nut back onto the lower bolt (if removing that bolt) until the nut is flush to the end of the bolt. Use the hammer to pound the bolt out of the axle shock shackle. The lower bolt is also a type of carriage stud bolt. However, rarely do these break and require replacement because they are much larger bolts.

Wrap a length of mechanics wire (around 15 inches or so) around the bottom threads of one of the replacement upper bolts. Replacement bolts do not have to be carriage studs type bolts. Thread the end of the wire through the frame and into one of the bolt holes and then pull the wire down through the hole until the bolt comes through. Repeat for the other bolt.

Replace the lower bolt (if applicable) through the lower axle shock shackle. Again, a standard bolt is all that is necessary; however, a replacement carriage bolt is also acceptable. The carriage bolt will be drawn into the shock shackle during the nut-tightening procedure.

Replace the shock by reversing the removal procedure. Hold the heads of the upper bolts in place with a hand wrench through the opening in the frame while tightening the nuts. Tighten the lower nut to draw the carriage bolt in place or just tighten the standard bolt and nut.