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Slide the front seats all the way forward to give yourself some room to work in the back.

Lift up the back of the rear seat cushion in the crevice to find a bolt. Remove the bolt with a socket wrench.

Pull the latches underneath the rear seat cushion forward to free them from their hooks. Remove the seat cushion from the Acura out one of the side doors.

Find three bolts under the seat back and two above the seat back near the headrests. Remove all five bolts with a socket wrench.

Pull the seat back forward and out of the vehicle.

Raise your Stratus with the jack and set the jack stands on both sides of the rear axle. Lower your Stratus onto the two jack stands.

Remove the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench and slide the rear wheels off the axle.

Clamp the brake drum puller hooks over the sides of the drum on the drivers side. Position the threaded center bar in the middle of the brake drum. Rotate the bar clockwise with the socket and ratchet to separate the brake drum and the hub.

Locate the retaining springs linking the brake shoes with the hub, then pull them out with the pliers.

Pull the brake shoes up and away from the brake drum and secure the replacement shoes in place with the retainer springs, using your pliers.

Slide the drum over the shoes and hammer it into the axle with the rubber mallet. Repeat for the passenger-side rear drum.

Push the wheels back onto the axle and use the lug wrench to replace and secure all of the lug nuts.

Lift your car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower your Stratus with the jack until it sits back on the ground. Then turn on your engine and pump your brakes by pushing down the foot pedal five times.

Place wheel chocks behind and in front of the front wheels to secure the vehicle. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel one turn with the breaker bar and socket.

Raise the rear of the Corvette using the floor jack and secure with a jack stand on each side of the automobile.

Remove the five lug nuts using a ratchet and socket. Pull the wheel away from the hub assembly and store the wheel in a safe location.

Use a 22 mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the rear hub assembly.

Slide the caliper assembly off the rotor and use a short length of bailing wire to hang the assembly in the wheel well. This will prevent damage to the hydraulic hose attached to the caliper.

Use both hands to pull the rotor away from the vehicle until it is clear of the wheel studs.

Inspect the rear of your motorcycle carefully to look for the shock absorbers. Shock absorbers connect the upper frame of the motorcycle to the swing arm through a hole in the rear fender.

Identify whether your shocks are sheathed with springs or are simply interlocked tubes. If you do not see springs, look for an air fitting on the top front of your shock absorber. If you see an air fitting and air line, you have air shocks. If your shock is sheathed in a spring, look for hourglass notches on the bottom of the shock absorber. If you see notches, you have identified your spring adjuster cam and your shocks are mechanically adjustable. If you have adjustable shocks, identify the brand. If you see neither notches or an air valve, your shocks are not adjustable and must be replaced before you can adjust them.

Contact the manufacturer of your adjustable shock absorber or the website to determine the specifications for the stiffness of the ride you expect to achieve.

Adjust the stiffness of your ride according the manufacturers specifications. Adjust air shocks by elevating your Harley on a motorcycle jack until your rear tire hangs as low as it will go. Locate the air suspension air valve on the left side of your bike. You may need to remove your left saddlebag by immobilizing the nut inside your fender with a box wrench and loosening the bolt inside your saddlebag with a socket wrench Raise or lower the air pressure in your air suspension using an air compressor and air gauge. Never adjust air shocks to less than 10 or more than 35 pounds of pressure.

Adjust the rear suspension stiffness of mechanically adjustable shocks using a spanner wrench. Insert the tongs of the spanner wrench into the notches on the spring adjuster cam. Turn the cam counterclockwise to achieve a stiffer ride. Always adjust right and left shocks identically

Push down on the rear of your motorcycle If you do not see shock absorbers. If it depresses and bounces back up you own a Softail.

Adjust the shocks on the Softail. Remove the right side saddlebag. On some motorcycles, you may also have to remove the exhaust mufflers or muffler using a box wrench or socket.

Elevate your Softail on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire hangs as low as it will go. Find the two rear shock absorbers where they join the Softail swing arm. You may need a flashlight. Identify the shock adjuster plate.

Loosen the adjuster plate lock nut counterclockwise with a box wrench. Turn the adjuster plate clockwise for a softer ride and counterclockwise for a harder ride. Re-tighten the lock nut.

Place a wheel chock against the outside tread of one of the front tires.

Lift the rear axle with a jack from under the rear differential high enough to place jack stands under each side of the rear axle. Make sure to place the jack stands away from the lower shock mount/bracket to allow room to work.

Lower the jack onto the jack stands, but leave the jack in place for extra safety and balance support.

Put on the safety glasses and crawl under the rear of the Cherokee with the remaining tools.

Remove the two upper nuts of one shock with the ratchet, extension and a socket. Remove and replace one shock at a time in order to avoid stress to the rear leaf springs. Do not worry if the bolt(s) breaks. Remove the other nut from the upper bolt/stud.

Hold the head of the lower shock bolt with a hand wrench, remove the nut with another hand wrench and then remove the shock.

Pound the upper (broken) bolts/studs through the frame with the hammer. If necessary, use the punch set to help punch the bolts through the frame with the hammer.

Place the nut back onto the lower bolt (if removing that bolt) until the nut is flush to the end of the bolt. Use the hammer to pound the bolt out of the axle shock shackle. The lower bolt is also a type of carriage stud bolt. However, rarely do these break and require replacement because they are much larger bolts.

Wrap a length of mechanics wire (around 15 inches or so) around the bottom threads of one of the replacement upper bolts. Replacement bolts do not have to be carriage studs type bolts. Thread the end of the wire through the frame and into one of the bolt holes and then pull the wire down through the hole until the bolt comes through. Repeat for the other bolt.

Replace the lower bolt (if applicable) through the lower axle shock shackle. Again, a standard bolt is all that is necessary; however, a replacement carriage bolt is also acceptable. The carriage bolt will be drawn into the shock shackle during the nut-tightening procedure.

Replace the shock by reversing the removal procedure. Hold the heads of the upper bolts in place with a hand wrench through the opening in the frame while tightening the nuts. Tighten the lower nut to draw the carriage bolt in place or just tighten the standard bolt and nut.