Friday, May 16, 2014
How to Remove an Astro 4 3 Engine
Removing the 4.3L engine from an Astro van is a challenging project that should only be attempted by an experienced home mechanic with a capable helper. Find a firm level surface that will support the van on stands and allow the engine hoist to roll easily. Safety should be your first concern. Never place any part of your body under the vehicle or engine that is supported by only a hoist or jack and always use a solid support stand.
Instructions
- 1
Disconnect the negative battery cable with a wrench. Drain the coolant into a container for re-use or recycling. Remove the engine cover from inside the vehicle by removing the screws under the hood, the dash lower extension and support rods then releasing the two latches.
2Remove the hood, grille, headlights, radiator support braces, horn, hood latch mechanism and anything else that will prevent the removal of the radiator and ultimately the engine from being pulled through the grille opening. This includes the radiator and shrouds, air conditioning condenser and air cleaner. Disconnect the radiator hoses and remove the radiator with its supports and shroud.
3Disconnect the fuel lines. The V6 engine has constant bleed so no special procedure is necessary to relieve the pressure. Be prepared to clean up any spilled fuel. If not already done, disconnect the transmission cooler lines and clean up any spilled fluid. Label and disconnect all vacuum lines and wiring connections. Disconnect the throttle, cruise control and any other cables from the engine.
4Remove the power steering pump, leaving the hoses connected. Remove the air conditioning compressor. Use rope or wire to support it if necessary. Do not disconnect any part of the air conditioning system; simply lay the components aside. Remove the transmission dipstick if so equipped.
5Raise the van with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. From under the vehicle, disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust pipe, remove the bell housing cover, bell housing bolts and the starter motor. Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate and the strut rods. Remove the engine mount bolts and nuts. Support the front of the transmission with the floor jack.
6Attach an engine hoist to the lift plates on the engine, then lift the engine a little and pull it forward slightly. If necessary, have a helper separate the torque converter from the engine with a large screwdriver or pry bar. Be sure the helper is out of the way before proceeding. Continue pulling and lifting until the engine is clear of the vehicle. Gently set the engine on wood blocks or an engine stand.
Sunday, April 20, 2014
How to Change the Oxygen Sensor on 3 3L Dodge
The 3.3L Dodge engine is a front wheel drive V6 engine that was first introduced in 1990 for use in Dodge mini-vans and front wheel drive cars. The oxygen sensor on these vehicles is a small sensor located in the exhaust manifold. The oxygen sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. This measurement allows the engine computer to adjust the air fuel ratio for optimal efficiency.
Instructions
Removing the Oxygen Sensor
- 1
Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal by loosening the retaining bolt with a wrench. Pull the clamp off the terminal.
2Raise the front of the vehicle using an automotive jack. Support with jack stands placed underneath the front frame.
3Locate the oxygen sensor. It will be screwed into the intake manifold near the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the head pipe.
4Separate the wiring connector on the oxygen sensor from the engine wiring harness, by pressing in both tabs with you hands. Then pull the two sides of the connector apart.
5Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold using an oxygen sensor removal socket and breaker bar. The oxygen sensor socket features a slot along the side to facilitate removing the socket without damaging the wiring harness.
Installing the Oxygen Sensor
- 6
Screw the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold, using the oxygen sensor socket.
7Plug the oxygen sensor wiring connector onto the engine wiring harness connector using your hand.
8Lower the vehicle.
9Reconnect the ground cable to the negative battery terminal by sliding the clamp over the terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt using a wrench.
Monday, April 7, 2014
1996 Dodge Caravan 3 8L Wont Start
The Dodge Caravan is a minivan that uses 3.8L of oil. If you are having problems starting your Dodge Caravan, you need to check out two issues: the battery and the fuel level. The battery on the Caravan is used to start the engine, however, the engine cannot run without fuel. Checking the battery life and the fuel on your Caravan will determine if replacement parts are needed. You dont have to be an auto mechanic to solve your problem. You can do it yourself.
Instructions
- 1
Open the hood of the Dodge Caravan and locate the battery. This should be on the right side of the motor.
2Look the battery terminals over for any corrosion. Loosen the battery terminals with a socket wrench and then remove the terminals from the battery.
3Use a wire brush and soda to remove the corrosion from the battery terminals. Connect the terminals back onto the battery and then try to start the van.
4Jump start the van with jumper cables and another car battery if needed.
5Allow the van to run for 15 minutes and then turn the van off. Try to restart the van. If the van doesnt restart then the battery is not holding a charge. Replace the battery.
6Check the fuel level. Add 1 gallon of gas to your Dodge Caravan and then try to start the van. If the van starts up, replace the gas gauge in the van.
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Chrysler 3 3 Fuel System Components
The Chrysler 3.3 engine has been used in a variety of automobiles, from vans to trucks and small passenger vehicles. Its accompanying fuel system has been improved several times over the years and can vary greatly depending on the particular vehicle. With these differences in mind, there are several fuel components that remain the same in all vehicle types, providing the 3.3 engine with power and performance.
Fuel Injection System
When the 3.3 engine was first introduced in 1990, it featured a fuel injection system. This improved acceleration and engine performance in the Chrysler Town & Country, the Dodge Caravan, Chrysler New Yorker and Chrysler Imperial. The fuel injection system includes a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel sensors and an engine control module. Fuel injection eliminates the need for a carburetor in the Chrysler 3.3 s fuel system.
Improved Intake System
Improved fuel intake goes along with the fuel injection system, which increased the Chrysler 3.3s horsepower. A variable intake system was implemented in 2001 which further increased horsepower and torque. This system functions by varying the length of the intake tract which can also improve fuel economy. Gas mileage is particularly important for family vehicles which may end up on the lower end of miles per gallon ratings, such as minivans.
Fuel Tank and Filters
The type of gas tank in the Chrysler 3.3 engine depends on the model of vehicle. For larger Chrysler vehicles, such as minivans, the gas tank size can be as large as 20 gallons. With smaller models, like the Chrysler Concorde, fuel tanks top out at 17 gallons. Each gas tank has fuel lines which feed into the vehicles fuel injection system, along with fuel filters to keep debris and other large particles from entering the engine and causing damage.
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
How to Replace International 7 3 Fuel Injectors
International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 7.3-liter diesel engine from 1988 to 1992. The engine was typically used in large Ford trucks from this period, such as the F250 3/4 ton pickup truck. The International 7.3-liter engine uses direct fuel injection.. The injectors for this engine do not require electronic control and are easily accessible, making it easy to replace them.
Instructions
- 1
Clean the fuel injector nozzles and fittings with fuel oil to prevent fuel contamination when you replace the injectors. Blow the area dry with an air compressor.
2Release the retaining clamps on the fuel line to the fuel injector. Fetach the fuel lines from the fuel injectors with a flare nut wrench. Disconnect the run-off tees from the fuel injectors and discard their gaskets. Move the fuel lines out of your way, and cover the ends of the fuel injectors with plastic caps to keep dirt out of the injectors.
3Turn the fuel injector counterclockwise with a socket wrench. Pull the injector from its bore, and discard the copper gasket. Clean the injector bore with special tool T83T-9527-A, and blow out the loose debris with an air compressor.
4Dab a small amount of anti-seize compound on the nozzle of the new fuel injector, and mount a copper gasket to the injector. Install the fuel injector into its bore, and tighten it to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.
5Mount new gaskets to the run-off tees, and connect the run-off tees to the fuel injector. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel injector with a flare nut wrench, and attach the retainer clamps to the fuel injector. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Monday, December 2, 2013
How to Troubleshoot a 1997 7 3 Power Stroke Diesel
The 1997 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel is found in Ford trucks and SUVs made that year. If you cant get your 7.3-liter diesel to start, there are a few things that you should check over before calling a mechanic. You dont have to be a Ford technician to get your 7.3 working again. You can do it yourself with just a few tools and minimal knowledge of how the engine works.
Instructions
- 1
Make sure that you have enough gas in your tank. Turn the ignition until the electrical panel lights up. Check over the fuel gauge to make sure that the tank is full. Fill the gas tank as needed.
2Check the battery connections. The electricity from your battery helps turn the motor over. Make sure that the connections are tight. Tighten the connections with a pair of pliers if needed.
3Change the fuel that is already in the tank. Seasonal fuel can has condensation in it. This water in the gas will cause misfires in your diesel motor. Change the fuel out with a siphon hose. Connect one end of the hose to an empty container. Connect the other end of the hose to your gas tank. Pump the fuel out and add fresh fuel as needed.
4Check the starter connected to the engine. Jack the front of the vehicle up and locate the small black box under to the right of the engine. Have a friend crank the ignition. If you hear a clicking noise, the starter needs to be replaced.
5Have a service technician check any leaks coming from the engine. Service technicians have onboard diagnostic machines that will be able to troubleshoot the leaks.
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Facts About Class 3 Hitches
There are six basic types of hitches: class I to V, and gooseneck hitches. Depending on the type of auto you have and the amount of weight you want to tow, you can review the facts first before choosing a Class III hitch.
Maximum Weight
The primary difference between the hitch classes is the maximum amount of weight that they are designed to tow. With a class III hitch you can haul up to 5000 lbs. GTW (gross trailer weight) or 500 lbs. tongue weight. The latter refers to the amount of downward pressure that can be exerted on the arm that is attached to the towing vehicle that connects to the towed vehicle.
Dimensions
In general, a class III hitch has a 2 inch receiver of rectangular shape. This is considered a standard size hitch for general towing needs. You can choose to have a class III hitch designed specifically for your auto or opt for a universal size available at nearly any auto parts store.
Compatible Vehicles
A class III hitch is best suited for three types of vehicles: vans, SUVs (sports utility vehicles) and mid-size pickups.