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Check the level of oil in the vehicle if you hear a tapping or clicking sound coming from the engine. If the oil is low, bring the level up to normal. Check the oil filter for excessive clogging and replace if necessary.

Check the timing belt if you hear a rattling sound coming from the engine. Take off the timing belt cover and inspect the components with a flashlight for any parts failure. Make sure that the belt is secure. If it is damaged, have it replaced.

Check for air in the brake system if you hear a popping of bubbling sound from the engine. Make sure there is enough brake fluid in the cylinder. Fill the cylinder if the fluid is low. Air can get into the system if the fluid is too low. Check the hoses and brake system for any holes or leaks.

Check for worn rod bearings if you hear a deep knocking sound coming from the engine. If this is the case, you may need to have your engine rebuilt or replaced.

Check the starter motor if you hear a scraping sound coming from the engine. The starter motor cranks the engine and there is a sound associated with this, however if the scraping noise continues after the engine is running, it could mean that the starter motor has failed and may have to be replaced.

Check the magnetic clutch on the a/c compressor if you hear a scraping sound. Turn the air conditioner on and listen for the magnetic clutch to engage. If you hear a scraping sound connected to turning the a/c on, it could mean that the compressor needs to be replaced. Check to see if the scraping sound stops when you turn the a/c off. This should alert you to whether or not it is actually the a/c compressor that is the problem.

Check the radiator coolant level if you hear a popping sound coming from the engine. Never open the radiator cap when it is hot. Wait for the engine to cool before filling the radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Make sure the coolant reservoir tank is filled as well. Check for any hoses that are pinched of damaged. Replace the radiator cap if necessary.

Open the gas cap cover (the plastic piece that covers the gas cap) and remove the gas cap. Look caully at the inside of the neck leading to the gas tank and check for any deformation from overtightening.

Check the gas cap for any deformation of the threads from overtightening.

Look at the top of the gas cap for any cracks or deep scratches in the top. Turn the cap upside down and look for any damage to the O-ring. This could include breaks, cracks, thinning, discoloration or anything else that looks out of place.

Check the seal of the gas cap. Usually a bad seal will cause a check engine light. You can also check the seal by putting the cap on, sitting on the side of the truck bed and bouncing up and down to see whether any gas seeps out. You can also drive and look for any gas residue around the edge of the cap after you stop.

Watch for subtle problems with the cap. These could include high gas mileage or gas splashing down the side of the truck.

Replace the gas cap if you notice any signs of trouble.

Inspect your exhaust manifold and cylinder head for leakage. Thermal expansion and contraction could cause leaks to occur at the place where these devices join. Shear stress pressures the exhaust manifold gasket when you start up, drive or shut down your Jetta. This can cause leaks.

Pay attention to popping or hissing noises when the engine is going. Check the exhaust ports on the cylinder head for signs of paint discoloration or burns. See if your spark plug wires and boots have burns.

Examine the area connecting the exhaust manifold and head pipe. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe joins the exhaust manifold. Look for discoloration caused by hot gases that escaped this area. This pertains to the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines.

Check the exhaust pipes for signs of damage. Use large pliers to exert pressure on pipes. Replace pipes that break or give way to your pressure. Make sure to keep the engine running while testing the system. It proves easier to detect leaks and other problems with the engine going.

Listen for strange sounds coming from areas near your muffler. For instance, a buzzing noise that increases with acceleration could reveal exhaust system problems. A whistle sound or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could come from system restrictions. Get a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings mean your system is blocked.

Open the hood of your truck.

Direct your assistant to sit in the drivers seat and be prepared to turn the key on and off when you prompt.

Remove the fuel line from the fuel injector unit with the screwdriver set. The fuel injector unit is located on the top of the motor. You will recognize the fuel line because you can follow it back to the gas tank.

Have your friend turn the key on and off quickly. If you do not see fuel coming out of the fuel line, then you need to move on to the fuel filter.

Follow the fuel line back from the engine compartment until you find the fuel filter located under the truck. Remove the line coming into the filter from the gas tank side with the tubing wrench set. Ask your helper to turn the key on and off again. If you have fuel flow, then you need to change the fuel filter. If you do not see fuel, then you need to replace the fuel pump in the gas tank.

Put your key into the Accord and turn the ignition. Look to the dashboard to see if the control panel is lighting up. Make a not of the fuel levels and the battery level when your turn the ignition.

Fill the car with fuel if your gas gauge shows that the tank is empty.

Open the car hood and look at the connections to the battery. Reconnect the terminals if the battery terminals have come loose.

Use another car and a set of jumper wires to start the Accord. Connect the jumper wires to the battery according to the "+" and the "-" signs on the wires. Connect the other ends to the battery on the other car.

Start the other car and then try to start your Accord. Leave the Accord running and then turn it off after 15 minutes. Try to restart the car. If the Accord does not restart, replace the battery.

Turn the ignition and press the gas pedal all the way to the floorboard of the Accord. This will stop the throttle sensor from adding gas to the engine and clear your fuel plugs. Try to start the car with the fuel plugs cleared.

Turn off the engine, remove the ignition key, engage the parking brake and raise the hood. Connect a voltmeter to the battery to test the charge.

Connect the red and black leads from the voltmeter to the batterys red and black terminals. Look at the display for the volt reading. If you have less than a 12-volt reading, replace the battery or charge it with a battery charger.

Locate the starter which should be next to the engine on the right side. The starter is the small black box with a wire coming out of it.

Locate the grounding cable coming from the starter. If you see rust, or that the grounding cable is disconnected, clean it with a rust cleaner and reconnect it to the grounding bracket on the right of the starter.

Use your voltmeter to get a reading from the two wires coming from the starter solenoid and going to the battery. If you do not get a 12-volt reading from the starter wires, you need to replace the starter.

Turn the ignition on the S10 to engage the electronic instrument panel. Check the instrument panel for the fuel gauge if the instrument panel turns on. If you can check the fuel gauge, make sure that there is enough gas in the fuel tank to start the car. Fill the gas tank with fuel if needed. Check the battery if the instrument panel does not turn on.

Pop the hood from the hood latch on the right side of the S10s grill. Raise the hood to locate the battery to the right of the engine block. The battery is in black casing with a red and black wire connected to it. Tighten the cable connections to the battery if the connections are loose. Try to restart the S10.

Jumpstart the vehicle with another car if needed. Connect the red (+) jumper wire to the red (+) terminal on your S10s battery. Connect the black (-) jumper wire to the black (-) terminal on your S10s battery Connect the other ends of the jumper wire to a different cars battery. Turn on the other car and then start your S10.

Allow the battery to charge for about 10-15 minutes before turning the S10 off. Try to restart the S10. If the S10 will not restart, you need to replace the battery. The 12-volt car battery can be found at local auto shops or department stores.

Climb under your S10 and locate the starter. The starter is located on the left side of the engine block. The starter is a small block box with a red wire going to the battery. Have your friend turn the ignition to the truck. Listen for a "buzz" or "click" sound coming from the starter. This indicates that the starter is faulty. Have a technician replace it.

Look around the S10 for any leaks. If you find leaks coming from the bottom of the S10, you will need to have a qualified technician diagnose the problem. The technician should also be the one to repair the leak as this could prove complicated and you could damage your S10 further.

Start the car and allow it to run for approximately 1 minute, checking for white smoke. On a cold day, white smoke coming from the exhaust should last no longer than this period. On warm days, little if any white smoke should be visible during starting and warmup.

Smell the exhaust while inspecting it for white smoke. Typical exhaust from a properly running engine should smell like burning motor oil. Sweet smelling exhaust indicates that coolant is burning in the cylinders and an internal coolant leak is present. This is commonly caused by a cracked head or failing head gasket.

Check the cars engine temperature gauge for overheating. Any temperature within the thermal "red" zone as indicated by the red markings on a temperature gauge is classified as overheating. This means the car has lost coolant and part of the cars temperature regulation system (cooling system) has failed.

Inspect the engine compartment for any signs of coolant leakage. Use a flashlight to check around the engine heads directly under the valve covers, radiator, water pump and thermostat housing. Coolant around the thermostat housing or water pump indicates a replacement gasket or part is needed.

Scan for codes using an On-Board Diagnostics tool for vehicles with such capability. Search specifically for codes that indicate compression loss, engine knock and poor air/fuel mixtures. Also observe oxygen sensor readings for normal combustion levels. Any combination of readings in these areas that deviates from normal indicates coolant in the engines cylinder or a faulty head gasket that is causing poor compression and combustion of fuel.

Check oil for the presence of coolant by removing the dipstick from the engine compartment. Wipe it once with a rag, then dip it again to take an accurate sample. Oil should appear as semi-transparent and yellow, gradually changing to a dark color as it ages. The oil should always be homogenous (one color) and never have light colors streaked in it. The presence of a chocolate milkshake color or green, watery streaking indicates coolant in the oil.

Drain the oil if its color is difficult to determine. Using a socket set, remove the oil drain plug on the lowest point of the engine oil pan. Drain this into an oil catch pan and check for uniform color. Add manufacturers suggested amount of fresh oil to complete the oil change.

Check compression using a compression tool if coolant is present in the oil or the exhaust smells sweet. Loss of compression in any cylinder indicates a failed head gasket or cracked head. Service as necessary.

Make sure that you have enough gas in your tank. Turn the ignition until the electrical panel lights up. Check over the fuel gauge to make sure that the tank is full. Fill the gas tank as needed.

Check the battery connections. The electricity from your battery helps turn the motor over. Make sure that the connections are tight. Tighten the connections with a pair of pliers if needed.

Change the fuel that is already in the tank. Seasonal fuel can has condensation in it. This water in the gas will cause misfires in your diesel motor. Change the fuel out with a siphon hose. Connect one end of the hose to an empty container. Connect the other end of the hose to your gas tank. Pump the fuel out and add fresh fuel as needed.

Check the starter connected to the engine. Jack the front of the vehicle up and locate the small black box under to the right of the engine. Have a friend crank the ignition. If you hear a clicking noise, the starter needs to be replaced.

Have a service technician check any leaks coming from the engine. Service technicians have onboard diagnostic machines that will be able to troubleshoot the leaks.

Listen for a clicking noise when attempting to start the car, which may indicate that the alternator is malfunctioning. Have the car towed to a service shop to get the alternator checked out.

Open the hood and check the battery connections to make sure they are tight. The battery is located next to the engine with two terminals attached to it.

Use a pair of insulated pliers or wrench to tighten the connection of the positive and negative terminals on the battery. If the car still wont start, use a battery tester to test the 12-volt battery.

Attach the red and black leads of the tester to the red and black leads on the battery. If the tester displays significantly less than a 12-volt reading, you can attempt to "jump-start" the vehicle.

Connect jumper cables to the positive and negative terminals on the battery. Connect the jumper cables to a another vehicle. Start the other car and then start your PT Cruiser. Allow the PT Cruiser to run for a minimum of 15 minutes to charge the battery.

Turn the engine off and then try to turn it back on. If the car will not start back up, replace the battery with a new 12-volt battery.

Remove the steering wheel cover if your turn indicator lights are dimming. Turn the key in the ignition, but do not start the engine.

Move the wiring harness while you turn the wheel until you get the wires to a point that the lights do not dim. Secure the wires in place with a small wire clip or tie. Put the steering wheel cover back in place.

Start your Honda Civic and let it warm up for a few minutes.

Tap your finger on the temperature gauge and see if the needle moves up. Sometimes a temperature gauge will get stuck. If it keeps sticking, you should replace it.

Turn off the engine and then turn the key to the second position so that the dash controls are working but the engine is off. In this position, the temperature gauge will still work while the engine is not running.

Open the hood and find the cooling fan, located on the back of the radiator. Follow the wires that lead from the fan to the engine coolant sensor. Wiggle the wires attached to the sensor. It might help to disconnect the wires entirely and then reconnect them. Go and look at the temperature gauge to see if it has moved.

Check the coolant level. Look at the coolant filler tank, next to the radiator, and make sure the coolant is at the correct level. If the coolant in the system is low, it can cause the temperature gauge to malfunction. Fill the coolant filler tank and then check the temperature gauge again. If none of these troubleshooting tips resolved the issue, the temperature sensor will need to be replaced.

Shut off the engine, open the hood, and let the engine cool down for one to two hours to avoid any burns.

Shine a work light on the back side of the engine block, where the engine meets the transmission bell housing. Locate the crankshaft position sensor. It is set into the engine block near the upper left corner of the transmission bell housing. Disconnect the sensors electrical connector and remove the bolt holding the sensor to the block with a ratchet and metric socket.

Remove the sensor by pulling on it while twisting it back and forth. Once the sensor pops out, dry it with a clean shop rag. Inspect the sensor for cracks or chipping. Replace the sensor if you find any crack or chips.

Set your digital multimeter to Ohms or resistance. Use the two multimeter probes to measure resistance across the crankshaft position sensor terminals. The specified value is 166.5 to 203.5 Ohms at 68 degrees Fahrenheit. If the sensors resistance falls outside this value then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Visually inspect the crankshaft position sensors wiring harness on the vehicle. Look for bare spots on the wires and chips or cracks on the plastic connector. Insert a small flat-head screwdriver into the metal connector pins and wiggle the screwdriver back and forth. The pins should remain in position and should not be loose. Inspect the pins for excess corrosion or damage. If any of these conditions exist, replace the crankshaft position sensors wiring harness.

Turn on the ignition and set your digital multimeter to "DC Volts." Probe the light blue wire on the crankshaft position sensors electrical connector with the red multimeter probe. Ground the black multimeter probe and look at the voltage reading. The reading should be between 2 and 12-volts. If the value is out of this range then the sensor is not receiving power, and youll need to troubleshoot the engine wiring harness. Connect a test lamp to the positive battery terminal and probe the ground side of the crankshaft position sensor. If the test lamp doesnt illuminate, then the ground is bad and youll need to troubleshoot the engine wiring harness.

Check the fuel level in your Chevy truck. Add fuel if you think that you might have a broken gas gauge. Get a mechanic to replace your gas gauge.

Open the hood and attach the positive lead from your jumper cable to your battery. Connect the negative lead from your jumper cable to the negative terminal on your battery.

Get a friend to attach the positive and negative leads from the jumper cable to their cars battery.

Start your friends car and then start your Chevy truck. Leave the truck running for a about 5 minutes to allow the battery to charge.

Turn the truck off and then restart the truck. If the truck does not restart, you will need a new battery.

Check the fuel level in your GM. Make sure you have enough gas to start the car. Add gas if needed and then start your GM.

Pop the hood and connect the positive lead from your jump cable to your battery. Connect the negative lead to your negative terminal.

Get a friend to attach the positive and negative leads from the jumper cable to their cars battery.

Start your friends car. Start your GM. Leave the GM running for a little while to charge the battery.

Turn the GM off and then restart the car. If the car does not restart, change your battery.

Reset the Bose car audio system to fix most display or playback errors. Remove the faceplate of the Bose car audio head unit by pressing the release button in the bottom corner of the unit. Locate the small port in the top right corner of the unit (left corner for Bose units in European vehicles) marked "Reset."

Flatten out the paperclip and poke the end into the small reset port (this is also possible with a pin). Hold the paperclip in for 15 seconds. Replace the faceplate onto the head unit and turn on.

Remove the face plate again if playback issues still persist. Point the long nozzle of the compressed air canister into the Bose CD player/MP3/Tape Deck port. Squeeze the trigger on the air canister in short two-second bursts. Spray around the edges of the unit as well.

Replace a blown Bose speaker if the sound from it is distorted. Use the screwdriver (with special Bose-style hex bit) to loosen the casing of the grill. Remove the grill to access the cone of the speaker. Remove the Bose-style connectors on the cone by hand.

Remove the blown clone. Replace with the replacement cone, and lay in the speaker casing in the same fashion as the broken cone. Re-connect the Bose-style connectors by hand. Replace the grill and tighten with the Bose hex bit and screwdriver.