Showing posts with label vw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vw. Show all posts

Sunday, April 13, 2014

10 Tips for a Used VW Transaxle

10 Tips for a Used VW Transaxle

Buying used parts is a great way to save money on do-it-yourself car maintenance. They are much cheaper than new parts and can be found in abundance. A good condition used part, like a VW transaxle, can last nearly as long as a new part if used and installed correctly. There are still some things to keep in mind when choosing second-hand items.

Know Your Part

    There are lots of different VW models and years, so make sure that you know the specific transaxle you need. Check any documentation that came with your vehicle to get the necessary part information so you can pinpoint the exact part that you need to get.

Look Online

    Look online for various ways to get your part. Check auction sites and car enthusiast forums for more information on how to get to your needed part.

Local Solutions

    Search locally. Check newspapers and local publications for people selling parts. Shops like Pick-n-Pull exist all across America and specialize in used auto parts. Plus, they require you to remove the part from their original cars and save even more money.

Shop Around

    Whether you are looking locally or online, dont stop when youve found a transaxle. Look at other options to ensure that you are getting the best possible price.

Check for Damage

    Visually inspect the part for any damage. Check for cracks or dings, as these can impair the effectiveness of the transaxle and shorten its lifespan.

Get Info from the Seller

    Ask the person or company selling you the part for information on the history of the transaxle. Ask about how many miles have been put on it and when it was installed. Try to find a part with as little mileage as possible.

Check for Counterfeit Parts

    There is a market out there for counterfeit vehicle parts. Make sure that the part you are buying is legitimate. If you are buying online, ask for photos of the parts, including any labels or writing on the transaxle. If youre buying in person, look it over. An easy way to detect a fraudulent part is to look for any typos in any text, logos, packaging or on the part itself.

Warranty

    Always be sure to ask the seller if the part comes with a warranty. These arent just limited to new parts. The warranty probably wont be as robust as it would be on a new part, but youll be glad you have it if it comes time to use it.

Installation Procedure

    Make sure you know how to install the part before attempting it yourself. Investing in the service manual for your car is a good idea. It will include visual instructions for how to install the transaxle, as well as answer any questions you have about removing the original one.

Ask for Help

    Ask someone with experience in car maintenance for tips on how to properly install the transaxle into your VW. It is better to get help before the situation turns serious and the part or your vehicle sustains damage.

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Wednesday, March 5, 2014

How to Troubleshoot the Exhaust System in a VW Jetta

When problems plague your Jetta exhaust system, handle them by pinpointing the culprit. Examine devices from the engine to the tailpipe because exhaust system challenges could originate from various areas. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a VW Jetta by dealing with system warning signs. Join a mechanic and apply these steps to most model years.

Instructions

    1

    Inspect your exhaust manifold and cylinder head for leakage. Thermal expansion and contraction could cause leaks to occur at the place where these devices join. Shear stress pressures the exhaust manifold gasket when you start up, drive or shut down your Jetta. This can cause leaks.

    2

    Pay attention to popping or hissing noises when the engine is going. Check the exhaust ports on the cylinder head for signs of paint discoloration or burns. See if your spark plug wires and boots have burns.

    3

    Examine the area connecting the exhaust manifold and head pipe. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe joins the exhaust manifold. Look for discoloration caused by hot gases that escaped this area. This pertains to the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines.

    4

    Check the exhaust pipes for signs of damage. Use large pliers to exert pressure on pipes. Replace pipes that break or give way to your pressure. Make sure to keep the engine running while testing the system. It proves easier to detect leaks and other problems with the engine going.

    5

    Listen for strange sounds coming from areas near your muffler. For instance, a buzzing noise that increases with acceleration could reveal exhaust system problems. A whistle sound or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could come from system restrictions. Get a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings mean your system is blocked.

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Monday, March 3, 2014

Machining Tools for an Air Cooled VW

Machining Tools for an Air Cooled VW

Several variations of the air cooled Volkswagen engine were in production from 1936 to 2006 and were most notably used in the Volkswagen Beetle. The air cooled engine consists of four cast iron cylinders, a magnesium crankcase, cast aluminum alloy cylinder pistons and heads, a forged steel crankshaft and connecting rods. As air cooled engines gain wear and tear from mileage, they need maintenance and repair.

Air Cooled VW Crank Pulley Puller Tool

    The air cooled VW crank pulley puller tool works on Type 1 and Type 2 engines produced before 1972. It can remove the crankshaft pulley without removal of the engine or any tinware. The puller tool fits pulleys ranging 5.75 inches to 7 inches.

Air Cooled VW Coil Spring Compressor

    The air cooled VW coil spring compressor is used for safe removal and installation of coil springs. It comes in a set of two compressors for easy adjustment to fit all types of struts.

Air Cooled VW Adjustable Engine Timing Pointer

    The air cooled VW adjustable engine timing pointer is for tuning Type 1 engines with stock or power pulleys. It gives an accurate read of timing within four degrees.

Air Cooled VW Jack Stands

    Air cooled VW jack stands are for jacking your car up when it needs maintenance and repair. The ratcheting style jack stand has a two ton capacity. The floor jack has a 4000 pound capacity and raises to 15 feet. It comes with swivel casters for easy positioning.

Air Cooled VW Valve Adjustment Tool

    The air cooled VW valve adjustment tool is a hand tool that allows you to tighten the jam nuts with more accuracy without the handle getting in the way.

Line Bore Gauge Tool

    The line bore gauge tool allows you to measure the bore in unmarked engines in sizes .2, .4, .6 and .8 overbore.

Air Cooled VW Oil Filler Nut Tool

    The air cooled VW oil filler nut tool is for removal and installation of the oil filler by loosening or tightening the difficult to reach retaining nut. It is made of heat treated steel that is designed to snap over a 1/2 inch drive extension.

Dual-Action 1/4" Ratchet

    The dual-action quarter-inch ratchet allows you to use a forward or reverse action dial to remove and install retaining nuts.

Air Cooled VW Heat Gun

    The air cooled VW heat gun is used to heat shrink tubing, smooth vinyl and remove decals. A concentration nozzle focuses the heat, ranging from 250 to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Friday, December 13, 2013

How to Replace a Fuel Tank Sending Unit for a 1997 VW Golf

The Volkswagen, or VW, Golf is a small family car that has been in production since 1974. The 1997 model belongs to the third generation of this series, which VW manufactured from 1991 to 1999. The fuel system in a 1997 VW Golf uses a small transfer pump, or sending unit, in the fuel tank to move the fuel out of the tank. The procedure for removing the fuel sending unit is generally the same for most VW cars made from 1993 to 1999.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and support it safely on jack stands.

    2

    Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box under the dashboard, using the list on the fuse box as a guide. Start the engine, and allow it to idle until it stalls from fuel starvation.

    3

    Turn the ignition off, and disconnect the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench. Wrap a clean shop rag around a connection on the fuel line to soak up spilled fuel. Loosen the connection with a socket wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the fuel connection, and replace the fuse for the fuel pump.

    4

    Remove the rear seat from the vehicle, and disconnect the access cover under the seat with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector and fuel lines from the fuel sending unit.

    5

    Turn the retaining ring for the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and remove it from the fuel sending unit. Pull the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank, and empty the fuel in the sending unit into a container approved for gasoline. Discard the gaskets for the fuel sending unit.

    6

    Mount new gaskets to the new fuel sending unit, and install the sending unit in the fuel tank. Fasten the retaining ring to the sending unit with a socket wrench. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Fasten the access cover for the fuel sending unit, and replace the rear seat.

    7

    Connect the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench, and lower the vehicle.

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