Tuesday, March 4, 2014

How to Replace a Smart Key

How to Replace a Smart Key

Smart keys were introduced by Mercedes-Benz and have since been adopted by numerous other vehicle makers. A smart key is a keyless fob, much like the fobs used for cars with keyless entry, that allows drivers to keep their fob in their handbag or briefcase without ever needing to remove it. Vehicles that use smart keys do not require you ever use the fob to lock and unlock your car doors or even to place in the ignition to start your vehicle. As long as the key is somewhere on your person you can do all of that by pushing buttons on your car.

Instructions

    1

    Replace your smart key by contacting your vehicle dealership. Smart keys are used by many auto makers and you must call your specific auto maker to obtain a new smart key.

    2

    Contact a local towing company to tow your vehicle to the car dealership. Since smart keys must be programmed to match your cars computer chips, you must tow your vehicle to the dealership.

    3

    Provide the car dealership your vehicle identification number (VIN), which is found on all of your purchase paperwork, insurance paperwork and title and registration. It is also found on your engine, in the driver door panel and inside the bottom-left side of your windshield.

    4

    Pay for your new smart key once the dealer has finished programming and creating your new smart key. The cost for replacement smart keys vary based on the make of your vehicle, but the average cost is around $200.

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Monday, March 3, 2014

Machining Tools for an Air Cooled VW

Machining Tools for an Air Cooled VW

Several variations of the air cooled Volkswagen engine were in production from 1936 to 2006 and were most notably used in the Volkswagen Beetle. The air cooled engine consists of four cast iron cylinders, a magnesium crankcase, cast aluminum alloy cylinder pistons and heads, a forged steel crankshaft and connecting rods. As air cooled engines gain wear and tear from mileage, they need maintenance and repair.

Air Cooled VW Crank Pulley Puller Tool

    The air cooled VW crank pulley puller tool works on Type 1 and Type 2 engines produced before 1972. It can remove the crankshaft pulley without removal of the engine or any tinware. The puller tool fits pulleys ranging 5.75 inches to 7 inches.

Air Cooled VW Coil Spring Compressor

    The air cooled VW coil spring compressor is used for safe removal and installation of coil springs. It comes in a set of two compressors for easy adjustment to fit all types of struts.

Air Cooled VW Adjustable Engine Timing Pointer

    The air cooled VW adjustable engine timing pointer is for tuning Type 1 engines with stock or power pulleys. It gives an accurate read of timing within four degrees.

Air Cooled VW Jack Stands

    Air cooled VW jack stands are for jacking your car up when it needs maintenance and repair. The ratcheting style jack stand has a two ton capacity. The floor jack has a 4000 pound capacity and raises to 15 feet. It comes with swivel casters for easy positioning.

Air Cooled VW Valve Adjustment Tool

    The air cooled VW valve adjustment tool is a hand tool that allows you to tighten the jam nuts with more accuracy without the handle getting in the way.

Line Bore Gauge Tool

    The line bore gauge tool allows you to measure the bore in unmarked engines in sizes .2, .4, .6 and .8 overbore.

Air Cooled VW Oil Filler Nut Tool

    The air cooled VW oil filler nut tool is for removal and installation of the oil filler by loosening or tightening the difficult to reach retaining nut. It is made of heat treated steel that is designed to snap over a 1/2 inch drive extension.

Dual-Action 1/4" Ratchet

    The dual-action quarter-inch ratchet allows you to use a forward or reverse action dial to remove and install retaining nuts.

Air Cooled VW Heat Gun

    The air cooled VW heat gun is used to heat shrink tubing, smooth vinyl and remove decals. A concentration nozzle focuses the heat, ranging from 250 to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit.

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How to Reinstall Lifters in a V8

Reinstalling lifters in a V-8 engine is not overwhelming, but you do need to remove the intake manifold, valve covers rocker arms, pushrods and lifters before the V-8 lifters can be reinstalled. Although most technicians agree that reinstalling the lifters themselves is a straightforward job, certain tasks and tests need to be performed before the lifters in a V-8 can be reinstalled. Disassembling the engine to this level means a problem exists in the valve train.

Instructions

    1

    Inspect the camshaft lobes, bearings and journals, following the instructions in the vehicle manufacturers service manual, for any unusual wear and repair or replace the camshaft as needed. Lubricate the cam bearings and journals with 30-weight oil and reinstall the camshaft. This step is vital because the lifters rest on top of the lobes of the camshaft. If the lifters are reinstalled prior to the camshaft being reinstalled, the lifters will fall down into the bottom of the crankcase.

    2

    Have a valve lifter leakdown test performed on each lifter by a repair facility or an auto-parts store with machine shop services to ensure that the lifters will perform within factory specifications. Replace any defective lifters that do not pass the leakdown test with new lifters.

    3

    Clean off any carbon or sludge from the outside of the body of the lifter. Ensure that the oil holes are free of grime and sludge. Inspect the bottom of the lifter, which comes in contact with the camshaft lobe, to ensure that it is not worn or discolored. Replace any worn or discolored valve lifters.

    4

    Immerse the valve lifters in a 1-qt. container of 30-weight motor oil to ensure that the lifters will remain lubricated in the engine block until the engine is started. Reinstall the V-8 engines valve lifters into the holes in the engine block that are provided for the lifters by hand with the flat end of the lifter resting on the camshaft lobe. No tools are needed to reinstall the lifters in the engine block.

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Sunday, March 2, 2014

What Is a Trailing Arm Bushing

What Is a Trailing Arm Bushing?

A trailing arm bushing is a connector that is used in automobile suspension. The bushing helps connect the rear axle of the car to the rest of the transmission system.

Significance

    A trailing arm suspension is a type of car suspension; one or more connective links hook the cars chassis to the rear axle of the car. The trailing arm bushing is a special type of dampener that is made out of rubber. It is located between the connecting rods and the rear axle.

Function

    The main function of a trailing arm bushing is to dampen the energy that is transmitted between the connecting rods and the axle. The bushing is located between the outside of the rod and the sheaths in which they sit. This allows the parts to connect to each other without grinding. The bushing can also minimize noise and vibration.

Considerations

    Most trailing arm bushings are made out of rubber. This makes them more prone to deterioration than bushings that are made out of stronger materials. The natural flexibility of rubber can also cause a slight degradation in the vehicles handling during intense driving conditions. Polyurethane bushings are usually a better choice, due to their increased durability and slightly higher hardness.

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How to Remove an EGR Valve from a 1999 Lincoln Town Car

How to Remove an EGR Valve from a 1999 Lincoln Town Car

Replacing the Exhaust-Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve on a 1999 Lincoln Town Car 4.6-liter engine will give the car greater fuel mileage and allow it to run more smoothly. The EGR recycles unburned fuel from the exhaust gasses back into the engine. A bad EGR can stop a car altogether, as it is part of the exhaust output and the engines vacuum intake system. Replacing the E.G.R. valve should take no longer than two hours if you have never done this type of work before. The tools and materials for this project are available at an auto parts store.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood. Locate and remove the vacuum hose from the top of the EGR valve. The EGR. valve looks like a miniature flying saucer and is located on the top drivers side of the engine.

    2

    Remove the small electrical harness from the EGR. valve with your hand. Thoroughly saturate all of the connections to the EGR. with rust penetrant or WD-40. Let it stand for five minutes.

    3

    Remove the EGR mounting bolts using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket.

    4

    Free the EGR. valve from the EGR tube, using two open-end wrenches. The EGR tube is the protrusion from the bottom of the valve. Hold the EGR. tube completely still during this step so as not to fracture or break the tube. The tube extends all the way to the catalytic converter; you cannot buy it separately from the converter. Spin the E.G.R. counterclockwise to remove it.

    5

    Install the new EGR, reversing the steps to remove it. Install the EGR tube connection first. Install the EGR mounting bolts and tighten them between 30 to 50 foot-pounds of torque.

    6

    Reinstall the small vacuum tube. Snap the electrical connector onto the new EGR valve.

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Saturday, March 1, 2014

How to Test an Air Mass Meter

How to Test an Air Mass Meter

Air mass meters, more commonly known as mass air flow sensors or MAF sensors, are devices used in vehicle engines. They are used to determine and measure the amount of air that flows into a vehicles engine. A hot wire element provides information to the vehicles on-board computer on the air flowing into the engine by becoming cooler when more air enters the engine. However, the MAF sensor can become faulty over time and provide wrong information to the on-board computer. You can check your MAF sensor regularly by performing a few tests to determine if it is functional.

Instructions

MAF Sensor Test

    1

    Park the vehicle on a flat surface. Turn off both the ignition and the vehicles engine. In many vehicles, turning the key in the ignition once will power the vehicles battery. This allows the user to control electrically-powered devices such as the radio. Turning the key further will power the engine to start the vehicle. In this case, turn the ignition and the engine off. Disconnect and remove the electrical connector on the MAF sensor.

    2

    Connect the ohmmeters positive probe on the MAF sensor terminal that is marked as "SIG".

    3

    Join the negative probe on the ohmmeter to the "GND" terminal on the MAF sensor.

    4

    Record the reading from the ohmmeter. If the reading indicates an infinite resistance or open circuit, the hot wire element of the MAF sensor is damaged.

Power Supply Test

    5

    Park the vehicle and turn on the vehicles ignition. Do not start the vehicles engine but ensure that the ignition is on.

    6

    Open the vehicles hood. Determine the location of the MAF sensor and its electrical connector. Generally the sensor is located on the intake duct on the air filter housing in the front portion of the engine.

    7

    Disconnect the MAF sensors electrical connectors. Join the voltmeters negative probe to the sensors GND terminal and the positive probe to the terminal indicated as "B+".

    8

    Record the voltage on the sensor. A voltage reading of zero indicates the MAF sensor may not be receiving any or enough electrical input from the vehicles on-board computer, which means the MAF sensor is not functioning properly. There should generally be a steady fluctuation in the voltage if the MAF sensor is functional.

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Tips on Carter Carb Rebuild

Tips on Carter Carb Rebuild

Carter carburetors are an older type of vehicle carburetor found in a wide variety of classic car models; they can be found in everything from the Studebaker to Dodge pickup trucks. Since these carburetors are so old, you need to approach necessary repairs on them in a slightly different way. When undertaking this challenging project, following a few tips will make the process much easier.

Before Rebuilding

    Before rebuilding the carburetor, take it apart completely and thoroughly clean all of the pieces. Often, so much dirt and gunk will build up in these old carburetors that you will not see a marked improvement unless you do this. Among the spots in a Carter carburetor that can get the most built-up are bleed vents, so make sure to get these as clean as you can. The best way to clean the parts is to soak them in carburetor cleaner overnight.

Cleaning Tools

    Before putting the pieces together, take them out of the carburetor cleaner and brush them down with a wire brush, then blow the carburetor off with compressed air. Make sure to blast air through every hole in every component of the carburetor possible, including the needle valves, float valves and bleed vents. If you do not own an air compressor, a bicycle pump makes a good substitute. An ultrasonic cleaner is another cleaning option, especially for extremely dirty pieces.

Throttle and Choke Shafts

    When cleaning the throttle and choke shafts, use care. These pieces must maintain their shape as closely as possible. If they lose too much metal due to excessive scrubbing, you may find yourself dealing with a vacuum leak.

Rebuild Kit

    Buying a rebuild kit is a good idea for rebuilding a Carter carburetor. Many books and kits are available that have extensive information on Carter models, right down to how to manufacture your own components. However, sometimes you may find your kit disagreeing with the manual for your vehicles chassis. Always follow the manual in such a situation.

Fuel Fitting Installation

    If you are installing a new fuel fitting on your Carter carburetor, it is very important that you replace the old gasket. If you forget to do this, you will deal with a host of problems with your float settings.

Idle Mixture Screws

    Your idle screws set the amount of vacuum in your idle mixture. When you turn them clockwise, or inward, you lean the mixture, and when you turn them counter-clockwise, or outward, you enrich the mixture. Sometimes, during the course of a carburetor build and adjustment, they may be turned several times, but when you are finished, they must both be set the same number of turns from their seated position in order for the engine to run smoothly. Theore, it is important to always be aware of how many turns they are away from their seated position.

Float Height Adjuster

    Float height adjustment is the most difficult part of your carburetors assembly. A way to make setting this a little easier is to use a drill bit as the adjuster. Many Carter carburetors have a factory float height of 25/64 of an inch. If you have a drill bit of this diameter, you can lay it across the top of your carburetor to set the float height.

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