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The knock sensor in your car detects a low-frequency engine knock and sends an electrical signal to other parts of your car. This makes knock sensors vital to proper engine timing, fuel efficiency and power.

Preparation

Varying in location on different vehicles, knock sensors are often found in the engine block, intake manifold or the cylinder head. While specific tool sizes may also differ by engine, youll generally need a ratchet with a socket fitting the knock sensors nut. Before beginning, drain the engine coolant.

Replacement

After caully removing the electrical connectors cover from the sensor, use the ratchet and socket to unscrew and remove the knock sensor. Evenly thread the new knock sensor into the hole and tighten it. Innova Electronics Corporation instructs to tighten the nut to the engine manufacturers inch-pound torque recommendation then reconnect the electrical connector.

After the Replacement

After replacing the knock sensor, youll replace the engine coolant and ensure that its full. Next, you should start the engine and visually inspect for coolant leaks, then test drive the vehicle to ensure proper working order. If the "Check Engine" light was on, it should turn off after replacing the knock sensor unless theres another engine problem. Continue to inspect for coolant leaks over the next few days, just to be sure.

The trouble with stock Harley-Davidson exhausts, or pipes, is that they are intentionally designed to inhibit the respiration of the engine. Exhaust gases are stopped, or obturated, from escaping into the atmosphere. The result is a big engine that chokes, gags and performs like a little engine. Consequently, a market in replacement exhausts thrives. Harleys brand of replacement parts to make the factory engine run the way it should is the Screamin Eagle performance line. Perhaps you bought only the Screamin Eagle mufflers, but replacing the entire exhaust only involves turning a few more nuts and bolts.

Instructions

1

Remove all heat shields by completely loosening the worm clamps that hold them to the exhaust pipes with a flat-head screwdriver.

2

Loosen and remove the two flange nuts that secure the front and rear exhaust pipes to the cylinder heads with a socket wrench and a hex socket, if you intend to replace the complete exhaust. Slide the exhaust flange and retaining ring off the cylinder head studs.

3

Loosen and remove the two oxygen sensors that bolt into your exhaust near the transmission cover using an open end wrench.

4

Loosen and remove the two nuts and bolts that secure the front and rear exhaust pipes to the frame bracket using an open end wrench.

5

Remove the complete exhaust assembly from the motorcycle. Remove the exhaust port gaskets from the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads.

6

Loosen both the muffler clamps that fasten the mufflers to the header pipes using a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove both mufflers with the interconnect tube (if applicable) from the exhaust pipes.

7

Remove both mufflers from the interconnect tube using a socket wrench and hex socket. Remove and discard the interconnect tube gaskets.

8

Bolt the new mufflers to the interconnect tube (if applicable) using replacement gaskets and a socket wrench and hex socket. Connect the mufflers to the new or replacement exhaust pipes using the old mufflers clamps.

9

Replace the exhaust port gaskets in the exhaust ports in the cylinder head.

10

Tighten the muffler clamps with a socket wrench and hex socket. Connect the front and rear exhaust pipes to the frame bracket using an open end wrench and the hardware you removed earlier

11

Coat the thread of the two oxygen sensors with Teflon paste. Install the oxygen sensors in the front and rear exhaust pipes. Tighten with an open end wrench.

12

Reconnect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust ports using the flanges, retaining rings and nuts you removed earlier. Tighten the nuts on the exhaust studs with a socket wrench and hex socket.

13

Replace the heat shields on the exhaust. Refasten the worm clamps using a flat-head screwdriver.

The Cirrus replaced the the LeBaron as Chryslers entry-level, four-door, mid-sized luxury sedan in 1995. It was part of the JA platform, along with the Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze. Chrysler erred to the cars collectively as the "cloud cars" because their names came from meteorological terms. The Sebring replaced the Cirrus in 2001 in the United States, but car continues to be produced in Mexico.

General Alignment Information for 2000 Chrysler Cirrus

The 2000 Chrysler Cirrus was available in LX and LXi trims. The front-end alignment specs are the same for both trims. The caster, camber and toe are the three most important alignment aspects in most vehicles. The caster angle is not adjustable on the front end of the 2000 Cirrus but should be set at +3.3 degrees. If the caster angle is off, it could be indicative of bent or damaged parts that require more extensive repairs. Always consult an owners manual or a certified mechanic before attempting to make any automotive repairs.

Camber Specs for the Front Wheels

Camber is the measurement, in degrees, of how a tire leans or tilts. If the top of a tire leans away from the center of the car, it has a positive camber. If the top of a tire leans toward the center of the car, it has a negative camber.

The limits of the camber angle for the front wheel of the 2000 Chrysler Cirrus are -.6 to +.6 degrees, with the ideal setting being zero degrees.

Toe-in Specs for the Front Wheels

The front wheels of most cars are angled slightly toward one another to help take weight off of the bearings. The toe-in is the difference in the measurements between the fronts of the tires and the backs of the tires. In other words, the toe-in is derived from measuring the space between the fronts of the two front tires and the backs of the two front tires and then subtracting the former from the latter.

The toe-in on the front end of the 2000 Chrysler cirrus can range from zero to +.5 inches, with the ideal being +.1.

You can replace the windshield on your 93 Ford Escort right at home, saving yourself time and money. Your windshield serves a valuable function, and its important to replace it if it becomes chipped or cracked. Replacing the windshield is not extremely difficult, but you must do it precisely so that it continues to protect you properly. To save some money, you may be able to purchase a used Ford Escort windshield that is in good condition from your local auto wrecking yard.

Instructions

1

Detach one of the base screws on the rear view mirror and slide the mirror out.

2

Lift up the windshield wipers and pry up the base with a flat-head screwdriver positioned between the nut and the arm. Rock the arm of the windshield wiper with your other hand to remove each windshield wiper.

3

Cover all the vents on the dashboard with painters tape to prevent pieces of glass from falling into the vents and blowing out later when you turn on the air.

4

Cut out the rubber gasket all the way around the windshield with a razor knife, taking care not to touch the glass. Push the glass out from inside the Escort. Have a helper catch the glass from the other side.

5

Clean off the frame, the dashboard and the new gasket with a wet cloth. Place the new gasket in the sun to soften it and make it more moldable.

6

Put a thin layer of sealant on the bottom part of the gaskets half channel. Fit the gasket onto the windshield, making sure the side with the slit is on the part of the windshield that will be facing outside the vehicle.

7

Put petroleum jelly in the outer groove of the gasket. Place a heavy 1/16-inch nylon cord around this groove, starting at the bottom center of the windshield and going all the way around. Start with 1 foot of cord hanging out as you begin and end with another foot of rope hanging down.

8

Position the windshield in the windshield opening from outside the Ford Escort, taking care to allow the loose rope to hang inside the car.

9

Pull the cord slowly out of the gasket from inside the car all the way around the windshield. This will put the rubber gasket in place. Have your helper press the rubber gasket to the outside of the windshield frame as you pull from the inside so that the gasket doesnt slip off. Allow to cure for 24 hours.

An internal combustion engine has hundreds of components. One of the critical components is the lifters, also called tappets. Lifters ride on the camshaft and lift the push rods. The push rod, in turn, pushes on one side of a rocker arm, like a teeter-totter. The other side of the rocker arm pushes down on the valve when the camshaft pushes up on the lifter. There are three types of lifters used in engines, and all three have their pros and cons.

Solid Lifters

Solid lifters are made of a solid rod of hardened steel. Most are about 1 inch in diameter and 2 inches in length. The bottom of the lifter rides on the camshaft, and the top has a small depression where the push rod sits. According to Ball State University, solid lifters were commonplace in the 1960s and the 1970s. The advantage to a solid lifter is that it does not lose horsepower in the process of lifting. The drawback is that the rocker arm can go out of adjustment quite often. If you hear a car engine make a clack-clack-clack-clack sound when going down the road, its because the rocker arms are out of adjustment and hammering the valves. Currently, solid lifters are used in racing engines due to the horsepower loss factor of hydraulics.

Hydraulic Lifters

A hydraulic lifter looks very similar to a solid lifter, except for one important internal difference: It is designed to be a self-adjusting shock absorber, using engine oil as the working fluid. When the camshaft lobe pushes up on the bottom of the lifter, an internal pool of oil pushes up on a piston and spring assembly. The internal piston pushes on the push rod. Due to this process, no rocker arm adjustment is needed since the lifter self-adjusts the entire valve train. The upside to hydraulic lifters is that the initial shock of contact is taken up by the oil, eliminating the constant need for rocker arm adjustment. The downside is that because it absorbs shock, the engine loses horsepower through the valve train. Moreover, hydraulic lifters have internal mechanical components that wear out, causing oil bypass or bleed-down. When it does wear out, the lifter no longer lifts. This condition is known as a "collapsed lifter."

Roller Lifters

Roller lifters are a significant advancement in automotive engine technology. Whereas a conventional lifter is cylindrical, with a flat bottom that rides on the cam lobe, a roller lifter uses a small wheel at the bottom, so the wheel rides on the cam lobe. This reduces friction significantly since the lobe does not scrape but rather rolls on the lifter. Roller lifters are available as solid lifters, for racing applications, or hydraulic, for conventional applications. The advantage of roller lifters is reduced friction at the cam. The drawback is increased cost since more manufacturing steps are involved in their production.

Automotive paint seeding is when the paint develops rough patches filled with grit and extraneous material that can ruin the finish and create an embarrassing appearance for your automobile. If you want to prevent paint seeding there are some relatively simple steps you can take to make sure that your automotive paint is in prime condition and that seeding is as remote a possibility as can be for your paint job.

Instructions

1

Examine the automotive paint that youre going to use. Make sure that the paint hasnt passed its expiration date, since old paint can form paint seeds once applied. Also make sure that you follow all of the necessary mixing and stirring procedures for your automotive paint as improperly mixed paint can also form seeds.

2

Pour the paint through a paint screen. These screens can help remove impurities that are in the paint that might otherwise cause paint seeding. If the paint is new and properly mixed this shouldnt be an issue, however.

3

Sand off small paint seeding patches that occur with P1200 sandpaper. This is very fine-grain sandpaper, and it can sometimes remove automotive paint seeding in small areas. Once the sanding is done and the top layers of paint removed you should polish the area and make sure that the seeding is gone.

The 1999 Saturn SL features a four-cylinder, 1.9-liter engine with two oxygen sensors that monitor the exhaust emissions. One is located directly into the manifold and can be accessed and replaced from the engine compartment. The other is located just behind the catalytic converter in the converter/front flex-pipe assembly. Because of the easier access to the "upstream" sensor (in the manifold), the sensor is actually easier to replace than the "downstream" sensor (near the converter), unlike the case with many other vehicles, which require you to get under the vehicle to replace any oxygen sensor.

Instructions

Downstream Sensor

1

Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and then apply the parking brake to the Saturn SL.

2

Lift the drivers-side front quarter of the vehicle with a jack high enough to place a jack stand under the front frame rail (place it up in front of the converter to keep it out of the way of the work space). Repeat the procedure for the passenger-side front quarter to elevate the front axle.

3

Put on safety glasses and crawl under the front-center of the Saturn to the location of the steering rack just above the catalytic converter shell. The downstream sensor wire will be visible. The wire runs along the drivers-side edge of the converters heat shield and its plug connection is fastened up near the steering rack. Reach up to lift the wire harness plug clip lock while pulling the sensor wire mating plug free.

4

Snip the zip tie retainers of the wire down the length of the sensor wire. Repositioning from under the front-center over to the drivers side may help you reach the lower downstream zip ties to the sensor location.

5

Slide the heat-resistant cover off the oxygen sensor wire.

6

Align the sensor wire into the slot on the side of the oxygen sensor socket. Place the socket firmly onto the oxygen sensor. The small heat shield for the sensor makes it a tight fit.

7

Attach the ratchet to the socket and turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it. It may be stubborn at first, but some leverage and ingenuity will pay off.

8

Hand-thread the new sensor into the oxygen sensor port. Tighten the sensor snugly with the ratchet and socket, again aligning the wire into the slot of the socket. Do not over-tighten or the threads of the sensor may strip.

9

Slide the original heat-resistant wire cover over the plug connection of the new sensor and feed it down to the sensor.

10

Plug the sensor back into the wire harness mating plug.

11

Zip-tie the wire to the heat shield, so it does not droop, before lowering the Saturn back to the ground.

Upstream Sensor

12

Open the hood and locate the upstream sensor. Its clearly visible in the front-center of the engine placed at the top of the manifold.

13

Disconnect the sensor harness plug from the wire harness mating plug located (and affixed) to the fan shroud. Lift the lock on the wire harness side of the plug and pull the socket wire plug away.

14

Place the socket onto the sensor, aligning the single wire into the slot of the socket.

15

Place the ratchet on the socket and turn counterclockwise to remove.

16

Place the new sensor into the sensor port, hand-tighten and the snugly tighten with the ratchet and socket before plugging the sensor into the wire harness mating plug. Close the hood.

Gaskets seal the connection between two rigid materials. The gasket material often lodges against one of the pieces entering the connection as it ages or becomes heated. Before installing a new gasket on the connection, you must remove the old gasket. Using the proper tools to remove the gasket will ensure no damage occurs to the gasket mounting flange. A damaged flange will cause leaks to form around the gasket, allowing air or fluids to bypass the seal.

Instructions

1

Place plastic sheeting over painted areas surrounding the part containing the gasket material. Secure the plastic sheeting to the area with pieces of duct tape.

2

Apply a gasket remover to the gasket material. Allow the gasket remover to sit on the gasket for 30 to 45 minutes.

3

Slide the flat end of a plastic scraper under the gasket material. Push the scraper forward using short strokes to lift the gasket material from the gasket flange. Wipe accumulated gasket material from the scraper with a rag. Scrape the flange until no large pieces of gasket remain on it.

4

Apply additional gasket remover to the gasket flange. Allow the remover to sit on the flange for another 30 to 45 minutes.

5

Wipe the remaining material and/or adhesive from the gasket flange with a rag. Inspect the gasket flange. Repeat the process of applying and wiping the flange until no sign of the gasket material remains on the flange.

Chevrolet is one the leading manufacturers of quality, American-made trucks. If you have a job to do, you want to be able to rely on the power of your truck and that it can handle the job. The Chevrolet pickup can handle most any job unless the fuel system fails. Troubleshooting the fuel system on your Chevy truck is not as tough as you might think. If you decide to tackle the troubleshooting of the fuel system, you might find the issue and fix the problem yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your truck.

2

Direct your assistant to sit in the drivers seat and be prepared to turn the key on and off when you prompt.

3

Remove the fuel line from the fuel injector unit with the screwdriver set. The fuel injector unit is located on the top of the motor. You will recognize the fuel line because you can follow it back to the gas tank.

4

Have your friend turn the key on and off quickly. If you do not see fuel coming out of the fuel line, then you need to move on to the fuel filter.

5

Follow the fuel line back from the engine compartment until you find the fuel filter located under the truck. Remove the line coming into the filter from the gas tank side with the tubing wrench set. Ask your helper to turn the key on and off again. If you have fuel flow, then you need to change the fuel filter. If you do not see fuel, then you need to replace the fuel pump in the gas tank.

Hot weather can impede your 1984 Honda from starting properly if the coolant has not been monitored properly. Heat can also cause a battery to die out because the car will be running the air conditioning all the time. Your 1984 Honda could also cease to start if you have a clog in your fuel system. All of these can be diagnosed with minimal knowledge of your Accord. You dont have to be a mechanic to get your car running again.

Instructions

1

Put your key into the Accord and turn the ignition. Look to the dashboard to see if the control panel is lighting up. Make a not of the fuel levels and the battery level when your turn the ignition.

2

Fill the car with fuel if your gas gauge shows that the tank is empty.

3

Open the car hood and look at the connections to the battery. Reconnect the terminals if the battery terminals have come loose.

4

Use another car and a set of jumper wires to start the Accord. Connect the jumper wires to the battery according to the "+" and the "-" signs on the wires. Connect the other ends to the battery on the other car.

5

Start the other car and then try to start your Accord. Leave the Accord running and then turn it off after 15 minutes. Try to restart the car. If the Accord does not restart, replace the battery.

6

Turn the ignition and press the gas pedal all the way to the floorboard of the Accord. This will stop the throttle sensor from adding gas to the engine and clear your fuel plugs. Try to start the car with the fuel plugs cleared.

Removing the dash pad from the dash of your Jeep CJ-7 will allow you to replace a faded, cracked or worn pad with a new one. Pads fade and crack over time from exposure to the sun and elements. While new pads are hard to find, many aftermarket Jeep parts manufacturers carry replacement pads made to OE standards that will give the stock look and feel of the original pad. You may also find a used pad in a salvage yard, online or private sale if you spend some time looking.

Instructions

1

Locate the locking knob on the lower portion of the dash between the door frame and the end of the dash. Grasp the knob and rotate it counterclockwise, removing it from the dash.

2

Remove the locking knob on the other side of the Jeep using the same procedure. Fold the windshield and frame forward, allowing it to rest on the windshield supports on the hood of the Jeep.

3

Locate the large Phillips-head screws that run along the top of the dash pad. Remove them with a large Phillips screwdriver.

4

Locate the large Phillips-head screws along the bottom edge of the dash pad and remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Grasp the pad and pull it up and off the steel dash of your CJ-7. Remove it from the Jeep.

The slide hammer is a very specialized tool that has several different uses for repairing an automobile. This sliding weight tool can be used by a body repairman or someone pulling apart the inner workings of a wheel assembly.

Description

A slide hammer consists of a pole-like shaft and a donut-shaped weight that slides down the pole. At one end of the pole there is a round attachment which prevents the weight from sliding off the end of the tool. The other end of the slide hammer is the attachment end, where a threaded bolt and nut allows the tool to be connected with a rear axle seal or hooked into a damaged car body.

Rear Axle

Since a rear axle oil seal is pressure-fitted, replacing a bad one requires use of a specialized force. While one end of the slide hammer is used to grip the seal, the sliding weight is slammed hard against the other end of the tool. The donut end piece keeps the weight in place and after a few strong pulls on the weight, the part usually comes free.

Body repair

Instead of pulling apart the rear axle assembly, a slide hammer can be used to pull out dented or pushed-in body sections, like a fender or door panel. First a small hole must be made in the body part, but if the dented piece can be pulled back out to its original shape, then the workman can repair the damage without replacing body parts.

Diesel engines are most common on larger pickup trucks, such as the Ford F-250. This truck has a rated carrying capacity of 3/4 ton, although it can actually carry much more weight. The only diesel engine available on a 1988 F-series truck was an eight-cylinder 7.3-liter engine. Each fuel injector delivers fuel to a cylinder in a specific sequence and amount. Its theore essential that you install each fuel injector into the correct cylinder.

Instructions

1

Release the clamps on the fuel lines to the fuel injectors and disconnect the fuel lines with a flare nut wrench. Discard the gaskets for the fuel lines and push the fuel lines to the side so you can access the fuel injectors.

2

Cover the top end of the fuel injectors with plastic caps to keep them clean. Turn the fuel injectors counterclockwise and pull them from the engine. Record the cylinder of each fuel injector as you remove it. Cover the nozzle end of the fuel injectors with plastic caps.

3

Remove the copper gasket from the nozzle of each fuel injector with tool T71P-19703-C and discard the gasket. Clean the bore of the fuel injectors with tool T83T-9527-A and blow compressed air into the bore to remove any carbon or metal particles.

4

Remove the cap from the nozzle of each fuel injector. Apply a small amount of grease to the nozzle and install a new copper gasket to the fuel injector.

5

Apply an anti-seize compound to the fuel injector threads to prevent the injectors from sticking. Install the fuel injector to its correct cylinder head and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the protective caps from the open end of the fuel injectors.

6

Install new O-rings on the fuel return line and connect the fuel lines to the fuel injectors with a flare nut wrench. Attach the clamps for the fuel lines. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Although vapor lock is almost unheard of today, some older Camaros are still plagued with the problem. Vapor lock occurs when fuel in the metal fuel lines between the fuel tank and fuel pump vaporizes and an engine-mounted fuel pump draws the vapor into the pump causing it to lose its prime. With no fresh fuel being pumped to the carburetor, the float bowl empties out and kills the engine. Some older model Camaros were famous for this because the air temperature under the hood was so high due to the design of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Locate the metal fuel lines under the hood. Ensure that no modifications have been made to the lines that bring them close to the exhaust manifolds. Reroute the lines away from any heat sources.

2

Wrap the metal lines with foam waterline insulating tubing. The added insulation will keep the lines from overheating.

3

Loosen and remove the bottom two bolts of the fuel pump with a three-eighths-inch drive, one-half-inch socket mounted on a 6-inch extension, connected to a three-eighths-inch drive ratchet wrench.

4

Slip the two bolts through the mounting holes of a fuel pump heat shield. Slide the bolts back through the water pump mount and thread them back into the engine block until they are tight. Ensure that the heat shield is positioned between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump.

The valve cover gasket seals the engine head to help it run smoothly and prevent any oil leakage. A good indication of when its time to replace the valve cover gasket on your Jaguar XJ6 is when oil begins to leak out of the engine head. You can replacing the valve cover gasket easily in a matter of a few minutes. With the right tools and instructions youll be able to change your own valve cover gasket with no hassle.

Instructions

1

Park your car on a level surface and open the hood. Disconnect the negative terminal battery cable.

2

Gently detach the PCV hose from the valve cover located on the engine head. Disconnect the spark plug leads attached to each spark plug by pulling on the boot (do not pull on the wires to avoid damaging the spark plug leads). Note: Its essential you remember exactly which lead goes to which spark plug.

3

Loosen and remove the valve cover mounting screws using a flat screw driver. Detach the valve cover and valve cover gasket from the head by firmly pulling it off (if the seal will not break, use a putty knife between the engine head and the valve cover to break the seal).

4

Clean the mating surface using a shop rag and engine degreaser until no oil or sealant residue remains. Apply a coat of RTV sealant to the pristine mating surface.

5

Install the new valve cover gasket, it will only fit in one way. Reattach the valve cover. Reconnect each spark plug lead in the exact manner in which they were plugged in before disconnection. Reattach the PCV hose to the valve cover. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

6

Turn the car on and allow it to run for a few minutes. Check the valve cover for any leakage.

Pontiac was founded in 1926 and is one of the biggest automobile manufacturers in North America. It is a member of the General Motors family. Pontiac produces several models of vehicles, such as the G3, Solstice and Vibe, in numerous trims each year. The alignment specs can vary substantially from year to year and from model to model. Always consult your owners manual before attempting to make an repairs to a vehicle.

Alignment Specs for the 2006 to 2010 Pontiac G3

The alignment specs for all trims of the Pontiac G3 are the same for 2006 to 2010 models. For the front end, the caster angle can range from +1.75 to +3.25 degrees, but the ideal angle is +2.5 degrees. The camber angle can range from -1.15 degrees to +.35 degrees, but the ideal angle is -.4 degrees. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to .24 degrees.

For the rear end, the alignment specs are the same for 2006 to 2009 models but changed for 2010 models. The rear-end camber angle can range from -2.00 to -1.00 degrees, with the ideal setting being -1.50 degrees, for the 2006 to 2009 models. For the 2010 model, the camber angle can range from -2.25 degrees to -.75 degrees, with the ideal setting being -1.50 degrees. The total toe for all models from 2006 to 2010 can range from -.08 degrees to +.58 degrees.

Alignment Specs for the 2006 to 2010 Pontiac Solstice

The alignment specs for all trims of the Pontiac Solstice are the same for the 2006 to 2010 model years. For the front end, the caster angle can range from +7.4 to +8.6 degrees, with the ideal angle being +8.0 degrees. The camber angle can range from -1.1 degrees to +.01 degrees, with the ideal setting being -.5 degrees. The camber and caster cross tolerance is -.60 degrees to +.60 degrees. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees, with the ideal setting being +.10 degrees. The steering-wheel angle can range from -3.50 degrees to +3.50 degrees, but it is best when evened out at zero degrees.

For the rear end, the camber angle can range from -1.0 degrees to zero degrees, with the ideal setting being -.50 degrees. The total toe can range from -.10 degrees to +.30 degrees. The caster is not adjustable on the rear end.

Alignment Specs for the 2007 to 2010 Pontiac Vive

The alignment specs for all trims of the 2007 to 2010 Pontiac Vibe are the same, regardless of whether the vehicle is two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive. The caster angle for the front end can range from +2.03 degrees to +3.53 degrees, with the ideal setting being +2.78. The camber angle for each front wheel can range from -1.32 degrees to +.18 degrees, with the ideal setting for each front wheel being -.57 degrees. The toe-in can range from -.20 inches to +.02 inches.

The camber angle for each rear wheel can range from -1.95 degrees to -.95 degrees, with the ideal setting for each rear wheel being -1.45 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +.26 inches on the rear wheels. The caster angle is not adjustable on the rear end.

The belt tensioner on the 1996 Ford Windstar model vehicles is a component that is made up of two parts. The belt tensioner is made up of a spring loaded base with a idler pulley connected to the end of the tensioner. The belt travels underneath the idler pulley while the tensioner keeps the belt tight. The tensioner is able to keep the belt tight inside of all of the accessory pulleys while the engine is running. If the tensioner fails, the belt will slip off of the tensioner pulley and out of the other pulleys.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and raise it up. Prop the hood up with the lock rod to prevent it from falling.

2

Move to the front passenger side of the Windstar and locate the belt tensioner on the front of the motor. Position a breaker bar and a metric socket onto the bolt that connects the idler pulley to the end of the tensioner. Turn the breaker bar toward the backside of the engine compartment (Counter-clockwise) to loosen the tension from the belt. Slip the belt off of the idler pulley and release the tension from the breaker bar.

3

Wrap the bungee cord around the belt and hang it to one of the top engine components to prevent it from slipping out of any pulleys.

4

Loosen and remove the single bolt in the center of the belt tensioner arm, Pull the tensioner off of the engine block. If the tensioner is stuck, use a flat head screwdriver to pry the tensioner off of the engine block.

5

Secure the new belt tensioner to the front of the engine block with the single bolt. Tighten the bolt with the ratchet and socket.

6

Turn the new tensioner toward the back side of the engine compartment with the breaker bar and socket. Remove the bungee cord from the belt and slip the belt around the new tensioner pulley. Release the tension from the breaker bar and remove it from the engine compartment.

7

Crank up the motor to ensure that the new belt tensioner is working properly. The idler pulley should be moving up and down as the belt is traveling around the pulley. This up and down movement is the tensioner keeping the belt properly tensioned at all times. Shut the engine off.

Losing car keys is a major inconvenience, especially when you dont have an extra key on hand to use until you locate your originals. When requiring new keys for your 1986 Ford truck, contact your local Ford service department or any professional locksmith. Fortunately, older Ford trucks are not equipped with internal computers so the process of making a new key for your truck is much simpler and less expensive.

Instructions

1

Call a locksmith or your Ford service department to request an appointment to have new keys made for your truck. If you make an appointment with a Ford service department youll need to have your truck towed to their service location. If you call a locksmith they will come to you.

2

Explain that the original keys are lost and that a new key must be made from scratch. Provide the Vehicle Identification Number, proof of ownership and photo identification to the locksmith and/or Ford service department. Keys will not be made if you cannot prove you own the vehicle.

3

Pay for the services rendered once your new key is made. The cost for having a new key made without the original from which to model it after is significantly more expensive because a mold of the lock must be made to determine the cut of the key.

The turbo diesel in your Isuzu Trooper is perred by some drivers because of the fuel economy. If you are having problems with the turbo diesel engine, there are a few things that you can do before you take it in for service. You can check common issues yourself with little hassle.

Instructions

1

Turn the key in your Troopers ignition to engage the instrument panel. Make a note of the fuel gauges level. If you dont have enough gas to start the Trooper, fill the tank up with gas and then try to start the vehicle.

2

Replace the fuel with the proper kind of diesel. Summer diesel can get cloudy in winter months. This can cause the fuel filter to clog.

3

Raise the Trooper with a jack to check the starter. Have a friend turn the ignition and listen for the starter to buzz. The starter is the small black box next to the engine. If the starter buzzes or clicks, you need to have it replaced by a service technician.

4

Look at the bottom of your Trooper for any fuel or liquid leaks. Have any leaks checked by a certified mechanic.

5

Use a voltmeter to test the battery. Check the battery sticker to get the volt rating. Most diesel engines use a 6.5 V battery. Connect the leads from the voltmeter to the battery terminals on the top of the battery. If you dont get the 6.5 V reading, have the battery replaced or jump the car.

Alternators transform mechanical energy into electrical energy providing your cars battery and most of the electrical mechanism within your vehicle with a steady stream of power. If your Honda Civics alternator has failed, you need to replace it immediately because it will quickly drain your battery, eventually preventing you from being able to start your car. With some mechanical inclination and a little elbow grease just about anyone can remove and replace the alternator of a 2003 Honda Civic.

Instructions

1

Write down the anti-theft code for the radio and all of the frequencies that correspond to the radios preset buttons.

2

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable. Raise the front end of the car on the jack stands.

3

Remove the front bumper by unscrewing the series of screws holding together located on its underside. Remove the right side headlight and remove the reserve tank from the bracket.

4

Remove the drive belt by relieving the tension and gently sliding the belt off. Remove the three bolts securing the alternator. Disconnect the alternator connector and the BLK wire. Remove the alternator.

5

Replace the alternator with a new one in the reverser order.

6

Connect the positive cable and then the negative cable to the battery. Input the anti-theft code into the radio and the frequencies corresponding to the radios preset buttons. Set the clock.

7

Porm the (ECM) idle learn procedure: turn off all electrical items are off (A/C, lights, radio, etc.); start the engine, put the car into neutral and hold it at 3000 RPM until the radiator fan comes on or the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 degrees Fahrenheit or 90 degrees Celsius; let the engine idle for five minutes.

Automatic locks on your car door or inside your home can lead to many unfortunate locking accidents. Accidentally shut the car door with your keys inside, or close an automatic locking front door, and you are trapped on the other side, unable to get back in. Lock picking tools let you open a lock yourself, eliminating the need for a locksmith.

Slim Jims

Many locksmiths use Slim Jim kits to open locked car doors, and the general public can buy them for home use. A Slim Jim is a long, flat piece of metal with a small hook on the end. To use the Slim Jim you simply press the device through the top of the window on the car door and slide the device down to the lock. Use the hook to pull the lock upwards, unlocking the door. There are several variations on the Slim Jim such as longer devices, double ended devices and the Euro-Strip, which works on European cars such as the BMW and Mercedes.

Bump Keys

Bump keys are also called "999s," the maximum depth for a key. The user inserts the bump key into the keyhole and applies pressure with a hammer until the bump key raises the pins inside the lock, unlocking the door. According to lockpickshop.com, bump keys work on pin tumbler-type locks and dimple locks. For dimple-style locks, you can purchase a dimple gun. Dimple guns come with several sizes of bump keys and make the lock picking process easier. For pin tumbler locks, you can also purchase a special hammer made specifically for bump keys.

The BigEasy and the BigEasy Loop

The BigEasy lock picking tool works similar to a Slim Jim. The BigEasy is a thin piece of plastic that you can slide from the top of the window to reach the lock inside a car and pull the lock upwards. The BigEasy Loop attaches to the BigEasy lock picking tool. It is a small plastic loop that allows you to grab onto the car door handle and open the door from the inside, allowing you to unlock car doors with push button locks.

Whether for an automobile, boat, barbecue or other gas-powdered machine, there are usually several options available when choosing a tank. Two of the most common tanks are steel and aluminum, and the use of each has its pros and cons.

Weight

Steel tanks are generally heavier than aluminum tanks, though the thickness of aluminum tanks does vary. Lighter tanks tend to be more fuel efficient, since less power is required to haul them, which means that aluminum tanks tend to be more fuel efficient. Also, aluminum tanks, since they are lighter, are more easily formed and molded than steel tanks.

Durability

Steel tanks are more durable than aluminum tanks, since they are heavier and more dense. Since they are thinner, aluminum tanks corrode more easily than steel tanks, which means they are more likely to leak. However, both types of tank are susceptible to leaks from corrosion or puncture.

Cost

Steel tanks are more commonly used as gas tanks. One of the reasons why steel tanks are the more common choice is that they are cheaper than aluminum tanks and, since they last longer, they offer more value for money in terms of their durability. If cost is a major factor in deciding which tank to go choose, steel tanks may be right for you.

Hub bearings are an important part of a 1998 Dodge Stratus as they play a large role in the steering of the vehicle. If you hear a grinding noise coming from any of the wheels on your vehicle, you should look to replace the bearings immediately. The process is simple and can be carried out from your garage.

Instructions

1

Engage the parking brake on the 1998 Dodge Stratus. Raise the vehicle with the car jack. Support the jack with the car stands.

2

Loosen and remove the lug nuts on the wheel with the socket wrench. Lift the wheel from the vehicle and place it in a secure area.

3

Remove the safety bolts attaching the brake calipers to the brake casing with a wrench. Caully remove the inner and outer bearings, marking their previous positions.

4

Insert the new bearings into the hub. Align them correctly in position of the old bearings before inserting them. Use the old bearings or a wooden mallet to caully fix the bearings into place.

5

Reattach the brake caliper to the brake casing. Secure the wheel back into place, fastening the lug nut with the socket wrench. Repeat the process on all four wheels. Test the Stratus on a quiet road to ensure that the bearings are fitted correctly.

A fried radio in a 2001 Ford Focus can create an eerie silence inside the vehicle, especially if youre used to playing your favorite songs as you cruise down the road. Unfortunately, Ford doesnt provide any technical service specifications or repair procedures for the radio unit itself; so if your radio is truly fried, youll need to remove it and replace it with a new or used radio. Used factory radios can easily be obtained from salvage yards for a fraction of the price of new radios. If you opt to replace your radio with a new factory unit, youll need to contact your local Ford dealership to obtain pricing information.

Instructions

Removal

1

Turn off your engine, open the hood, and disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery, using a battery terminal wrench.

2

Insert the radio locking tools into the holes on the front of the radio. Pull both tools gently back and forth to the left and right sides of the radio; this will release the locking hooks inside the radio.

3

Remove the radio from the instrument panel and disconnect the radios electrical connectors. These connectors include the power cables, antenna cables and any optional equipment cables, such as a CD changer cable.

4

Remove the special tools from the radio by depressing the locking hooks on the back of the radio, then slide each tool out of the holes on the front of the radio.

5

Remove the radio completely from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reattach the radios electrical cables and make sure they are snug and locked into place.

7

Place the radio into the radio slot on the dashboard and press it into the dashboard. Listen for the locking hooks to engage. Make sure that the radio is flush with the dashboard and that it is fully-seated.

8

Turn on the ignition and test the radio to ensure that it is working properly.

Exhaust problems are among the most subtle yet potentially debilitating issues your car will face. A damaged exhaust system will interfere with the cars performance by failing to clear harmful elements from the engine, while backed-up exhaust can release carcinogens into the atmosphere and even pose a health threat if not detected. You can diagnose car exhaust problems yourself by keeping a sharp lookout for certain warning signs.

Instructions

1

Examine the length of the exhaust system, starting at the engine and continuing back toward the tailpipe. Look for signs of cracks or fissures along the pipes, especially where the exhaust manifold connects to the cylinder and where it connects to the main pipe. Any area where one pipe or part connects to another is apt to develop fissures or cracks, which can be spotted if you examine it thoroughly.

2

Check the exhaust port near the cylinder head for signs of burned or discolored paint. Its a sign that the exhaust system is not functioning as it should.

3

Listen to the engine while it is running. You can diagnose an exhaust problem by the noises it makes: a recurring hiss or unusual popping noise is usually caused by a problem in the exhaust system. It means that the muffler or the pipes are probably leaking.

4

Look at the muffler of the car. Its surface should be shiny and solid if you want the exhaust system functioning as it should. Holes, punctures, or undue rust are signs of problems.

5

Poke at any questionable pipes with a pair of pliers or the end of a screwdriver. Rot or corrosion may not always appear on the surface, but it will weaken the surface of the exhaust pipes. If you can poke through the pipe or feel it give under the tool, then it probably needs to be replaced.

6

Start the car and check the engines intake manifold vacuum while it is idling. It should read about 18 inches or so. If it reads lower than that, there is probably a restriction in the exhaust.

7

Remove the cars catalytic converter and hold it up to a bright light: you can diagnose its effectiveness by looking through it. If you can see the light through it, the converter is working fine. If you cant, its plugged and needs to be replaced.

The 1996 Chevrolet Lumina is a mid-size vehicle available as a four-door sedan and minivan. The Lumina was redesigned for 1995, and this second-generation design would carry over through 2001.

Battery Size

When replacing a battery, it is important to know the physical size of the battery that is needed. Most cars are designed to accommodate one specific size of battery in the engine compartment. These numerical two-digit sizes take into account the length, width and height of the battery. The 1996 Chevrolet Lumina accommodates battery size 75.

Cold-Cranking Amps

The next consideration is the cold-cranking amps of a battery --- how much "juice" it takes to get the car started on a cold day. Cold-cranking amps are the number of amperes a vehicle battery can provide for 30 seconds and maintain an effective amount of voltage per cell in 0 degree weather. The Chevrolet Lumina requires a battery with 600 cold-cranking amps. It is acceptable to purchase a battery with higher cold-cranking amps than the minimum recommendation, especially if you live in a cold climate.

Reserve Capacity

Battery shoppers can compare batteries by their advertised reserve capacity. Chevrolet does not recommend any particular reserve capacity, but it is wise to purchase a battery that offers the greatest reserve capacity within your budget.

The Lexus ES 250 was the companys first entry-level luxury car. To keep costs down, the ES 250 was based on the Toyota Camry, but with a nicer interior and more sound-deadening material. To ensure that the ride was comfortable and luxurious, the Lexus ES was equipped with fully independent suspension, front and back. This was notable because most manufactures would only spring for front independent suspension and use a torsion bar setup in the rear. The struts provide the cushioning in an independent suspension setup; however, they can wear out over time and need to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Drive the Lexus ES 250 to a flat piece of pavement --- your garage is best if there is ample room to either side for the removal of the wheels. Place the car into "Park" and engage the parking brake. Turn the sedan off and empty the car out --- the additional weight will make the jacking up that much harder.

2

Jack the car up by sliding the car jack under the jack point, then raising that corner up. Slide in a jack stand when that corner is elevated, then go on to the next corner. Jack the car up enough so that the wheels are no longer in contact with the ground. Use the tire iron that came with the Lexus to remove the lug nuts from each of the wheels, then pull the wheels off by hand and roll them out of the way.

3

Locate the antilock sensor on the strut --- its the only thing connected by an electrical wire to the car. Unplug the sensor, then unbolt the sway bar on the bottom of the strut. Caully lower the sway bar to the ground to avoid deforming it. The sway bar relies on its straightness to transfer kinetic energy from one corner to the other. Unbolt the two bolts that secure the bottom of the strut. On the front wheels, the strut is bolted to the steering knuckle; on the back wheels, the strut is bolted to the bottom control arms. Unbolt the two bolts on the top of the strut, then pull the strut out by hand.

4

Bolt in the new strut by first bolting in the bottom two bolts. Then slide in the two top bolts and wrench them down flush. Plug the antilock sensor in the struts, then bolt in the strut on the other side of the car. Both the left and right strut must be installed before the sway bar is bolted in or else the sides will be uneven and you will have to force them into place while bolting. Repeat this process for all the corners.

5

Bolt in the tires back onto the axles, then lower the car off the jack stands. Make sure all the corners are level, then take the car for a test drive.

Faulty front hub bearings can cause a number of symptoms, such as grinding, whirring, humming, shaking and excessive vibrations. These symptoms are usually most audible when turning a corner. The excess heat, friction and weight from the vehicle components cause the bearings to degrade slowly over time, causing an increase in play and looseness in the bearing unit. Because the front hub bearing bearings sustain the weight of the engine and transmission, their condition can worsen quickly creating a serious safety concern.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and lower it down onto two jack stands. Check to make sure that the vehicle is firmly supported. Place two wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and set the parking brake.

2

Rotate the tire in both directions and listen for any grinding or roughness. A faulty bearing will sound rough and feel gritty while youre turning the tire. The tire should spin freely and smoothly; if it rattles or grinds while spinning then the wheel bearing is faulty.

3

Grip the wheel with two hands, one on top of the wheel and one on the bottom. Rock the tire in and out while feeling for looseness. The tire should be firm and fixed in place; you should not be able to wiggle it all. Any slop or looseness from top-to-bottom indicates a bad wheel bearing.

4

Lower the vehicle back to the ground and remove the wheel chocks. Drive to an empty street or highway for testing.

5

Accelerate to 40 MPH and make an abrupt lane change to the left while listening for bearing noise. Accelerate back to 40 MPH and make an abrupt lane change to the right while listening for bearing noise. If the bearing noise increases when turning to the left, then the right side hub bearing is faulty. If the bearing noise increases when turning to the right, then the left side hub bearing is faulty. This is because turning to one side increase the load on the bearing of the opposite side when the weight transfers, exaggerating the bearing symptoms.

Bolts rust because of exposure to elements such as water or salt, or because dissimilar metals are threaded together. Anti-seize compounds painted on your bolts prevent rust and corrosion, and make it easier to thread a bolt into a part and remove the bolt later. A protective compound applied to the head of the bolt after it is installed helps prevent rust or corrosion forming on this more exposed part of the bolt. If the bolt already shows some rust, remove the rust before applying the anti-seize compound.

Instructions

1

Apply the rust remover, if needed, as directed on the container. After cleaning it off the bolt, use a stiff brush to thoroughly clean the bolt.

2

Paint the bolt with a thin coat of anti-seize compound.

3

Insert the bolt into the part and thread it as tightly as you can by hand. Use a socket wrench and ratchet to finish tightening the bolt.

4

Wipe the bolt head and the area around it with a clean cloth to remove dirt and excess anti-seize compound.

5

Spray the head of the bolt with corrosion protection compound.

A broken car key is a problem for many reasons. Not only does it mean that you will not be able to use your car for a while, but it is often also a very expensive repair. It is impossible to fix a broken key on your own. To get it done, you have to visit a locksmith or a mechanic. Sometimes they can fix the original key, and sometimes they will have to make a new one.

Instructions

1

Inspect the broken pieces of the key. Make sure all pieces are present. If some of the key broke off inside the lock, you will have to hire a mechanic to remove the broken pieces from the ignition before the new key will work.

2

Locate the VIN number of your vehicle as well as the make and model information. You will need this information to order a replacement key.

3

Call a local vehicle locksmith or the dealer for your car. Give them the vehicle information of your car. Ask for an estimate of the cost of making a replacement key. Not all locksmiths will be able to reproduce all car keys, but if they can, they are often less expensive than ordering a key through the dealer. Car keys can cost up to $200 for one replacement. This is due to the safety technology used to make the key work in your specific car only.

4

Ask the dealer or locksmith if they are able to make a temporary key for your vehicle while the new key is made. Some locksmiths may be able to repair your current broken key well enough to work for a few days while you wait for the replacement key.

Complex machinery, like a cars transmission, requires periodic maintenance to ensure a long lifespan. Allowing air pressure into the transmission assembly can harm the transmission, rather than help.

Function

A typical transmission moves power from the cars engine, through its gear assemblies and out to the wheels to propel the vehicle forward. Transmission fluid flows throughout the assembly to provide pressurized cooling, lubrication and control gear shifting.

Considerations

Air pressure seeping into the transmission, such as from a leak, causes the transmission fluid within the hydraulic system to lose pressure. As a result, the clutch disc begins to slip, causing the vehicle to change gears roughly or not at all.

Prevention/Solution

To prevent air pressure from infiltrating the transmission, make sure all seals for the transmission filter and pan are free from cracks or twists. Verify that all bolts holding the filter and pan are torqued evenly so the seals can meet effectively.

Quick exhaust valves are used on certain mechanical parts to speed the reaction time of each part. These valves exhaust air into the atmosphere rather than through another valve, and are also commonly used in plumbing and engineering applications.

Use in Air Cylinders

Quick exhaust valves increase the speed cycle on single- or double-acting air cylinders. Compressed air moves from the valve to the cylinder when the valve is shifted, then from the cylinder to the atmosphere. Installed at the cylinders ports, this valve may come with mufflers to dampen the sound.

Use in Clutches and Brakes

Quick exhaust valves provide quick response when clutches are shifted and brake pedals are used. Used in conjunction with an actuator, these valves relieve the pressure forces when brakes are pushed, sending the compressed air into the atmosphere rather than through another valve. Through a heat barrier plate, the actuator and valve assembly are protected from extreme temperature.

Other Applications

This valve is also used as a flow control valve to obtain speed control in cylinder ports, or as a shuttle valve. As a shuttle valve, the quick exhaust valve is used in two separate pressure lines that go to one destination.

The oxygen sensor monitors the fuel-to-air ratio in the spent exhaust near or on the manifold. Since the integration of OBD II (on-board diagnostics) in 1996, the amount of oxygen sensors on vehicles has doubled. Upstream sensors still monitor the exhaust from the manifold; downstream sensors now monitor the catalyst efficiency near the catalytic converters. While replacing some oxygen sensors is a simple task, vehicle designs can frustrate the most seasoned mechanics when it comes to replacing them due to lack of access. Tool companies advance along with technology. Luckily, theres always the right tool for the job.

The Environment of the Oxygen Sensor

Most oxygen sensors screw into portholes or bungs in the exhaust system. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust of the combustion engine, the pipes of the exhaust system heat up when operating and then cool down after the vehicle is shut off. This creates an unfriendly environment for the metals of the exhaust pipe and the threads of the oxygen sensor. Even sensors that are easily accessible can provide a high degree of difficulty when trying to be unscrewed from the exhaust pipe.

Tools and Taps

Rest assured that there is the right tool to remove the most challengingly accessible oxygen sensor. While many offer easy access, todays tools will offer you a variety of choices as well as combining other common tools in order to successfully remove oxygen sensors.

Oxygen sensor wrench with flex heads are now available. Oxygen sensor sockets with slotted edges are also quite popular. Wrenches that fit onto the hex-head of the sensor--most commonly a 22-mm or a 7/8-inch drive--accompanied with a square drive in the wrench to accommodate a ratchet extension can be used. Swivels are another friendly tool for access-challenged sensors. And in the easiest ones to remove, a box-end wrench can even be used.

Always unplug the wire harness of the sensor before attempting to remove it.

A Little Heat Might Help

So now, youve found the right tool or the right combination, youve unplugged the wire and placed it through the wrench or into the slot of the socket and the sensor is still stuck. While some suggest heating up the engine by running it will help, the fact is, under this procedure, the heat expands both the exhaust pipe and the sensor threads. Penetrating lubricant in liberal doses may help in this manner, but if you have a small propane or oxyacetylene torch, you can also heat the edges of the bung on the exhaust pipe. This will expand the pipe and bung without greatly affecting the sensor. A little heat will go a long way when removing stubborn sensors.

Its also a good idea to allow the pipe to cool down and then chase or tap the bung with an O2 sensor thread tap or chaser. Commonly an 18-mm diameter with a 1.5-mm thread pitch is used, but check the sensor threads and diameter at the parts store when you buy it to make sure. This will make threading the new sensor easier. Since the threads of oxygen sensors are much weaker than the bung, you can easily damage or cross-thread a new sensor trying to install it without chasing the threads of the bung. Apply a little anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the sensor--being caul not to get any on the head of the sensor--before tightening; although many quality aftermarket sensors will provide some anti-seize compound on the threads for you already.

When the washer pumps fail on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer, the first symptom you may notice is a lack of fluid coming from the washer jets when you press the spray button. Although the pumps are durable and generally last for many years, they will need repair eventually. In order to repair a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancers washer fluid pumps, the pumps must be removed from the washer fluid reservoir and replaced; the pumps themselves are sealed, non-serviceable units.

Instructions

Removal

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the front, passenger-side wheel with a lug nut wrench. Raise the vehicle and set it down on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and then remove the wheel.

2

Remove the screws holding the side undercover panel to the engine and splash guard, using a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the bolts holding the inner splash guard to the fender and vehicle body, using a ratchet and metric socket.

3

Disconnect the hoses from the washer pumps and allow the windshield washer fluid to flow into a drain pan.

4

Disconnect the electrical connectors on the washer motors. Remove the washer motors from the reservoir by pulling them up and out of their mounting holes. Allow any excess washer fluid to flow into the drain pan.

Installation

5

Set the new washer pumps into position and press them down into their mounting holes until they are fully-seated.

6

Reconnect the electrical connectors to both pumps and then reconnect the front and rear pump hoses. Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle.

7

Set the inner fender splash guard into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Set the side undercover into position and reinstall its retaining screws.

8

Refill the reservoir and test the washer pumps. Lift the vehicle using the jack, remove the stands, and set it back down on the ground.

While Harleys are already high-performance bikes, once you start adding aftermarket parts, youll find new projects to make yours even better. Make your Harley faster, louder and more powerful while adding a bit of the cool factor by modifying the stock exhaust.

Instructions

Decide Why You Want to Modify Your Harley

1

Choose vanity over performance. Many Harley owners dislike the stock crossover pipes (which have been hidden on newer models) or they want their pipes a certain length. While you can pretty much fit anything you can imagine to your exhaust system, you will sacrifice performance in many cases.

2

Hear me roar. Nothing says chopper like a nice loud growl issuing from your Harley. The rumble screams Harley with every grind. Long, straight unmuffled pipes create the loudest bang for your buck. Stock Harley exhausts minimize motorcycle noise as much as possible.

3

Go fast. Certain exhausts may provide better performance, but make sure that your aftermarket parts not only work with your bike, but also provide the boost you desire. In some cases, improving one area may be at the expense of other parts of your engine.

Choose Parts to Modify Harley Exhausts

4

Choose only Harley exhausts for the best performance, while meeting often-restrictive legal requirements. Other companies do exist, but make sure the parts you buy are new and direct from a manufacturer to avoid future problems.

5

Check your states laws regarding aftermarket exhaust systems. Most aftermarket mufflers are illegal. California laws tend to be stricter than the other 49 states, so double-check your modifications if you live there. Besides seeing what it street legal, also check your neighborhoods anti-noise ordinances.

6

Buy parts that can be easily assembled and placed if you plan to do the work yourself. Removing the stock pipes is easy, but you want to make sure the rest of the process remains so.

7

Install heat shields specific to your new exhaust. Without a heat shield, you will see some bluing around the heads. Heat shields can be customized to the look of your motorcycle.

8

Look for warranties on your aftermarket parts. Most exhaust kits from reputable dealers ship with some sort of warranty. Discoloration of parts is not covered in most cases.

The 2000 Dodge Intrepid headlight has removable bulbs to simplify the replacement process. If a headlight bulb burns out, you can replace the individual bulb instead of having to buy a costly headlight assembly. You can buy a 9005 high beam bulb or a 9006 low beam bulb from an auto parts retailer and change them at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of the Intrepid and secure it with the support rod. Remove the bolts securing the crossbar over the headlight assemblies using a socket and ratchet. Set the crossbar aside.

2

Disconnect the wiring harness from the bulb you need to change. The inside bulb is the high beam and the outer bulb is the low beam. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise. Pull straight back to remove the bulb socket from the car.

3

Pull the bulb out of the socket. Push the new bulb into the socket and insert it into the headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it. Push the electrical connection into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the other side. Set the crossbar in place and secure it with the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet.

5

Close the hood and test the lights.

A vehicles engine and transmission is stabilized by the motor mount. A motor mount also keeps you from feeling the full vibration that an engine is capable of causing. Because of this, information on different motor mounts for cars can be beneficial.

Regular

A regular motor mount is simple in the way its designed. It has a metal plate, as well as an insulation block made from rubber. The rubber absorbs vibration, while the metal bracket of the mount is for engine support.

Hydro

Hydraulic motor mounts can be found on many vehicles, and have chambers with hydraulic fluid in them. These motor mounts are known for controlling engine noise and vibration and can often be found in luxury vehicles.

Internal Valving

Some hydraulic motor mounts are equipped with internal valving. Because of the way they function to control vibration changes according to the engines rpm, they are often erred to as switchable hydraulic mounts.

An automatic transmission is a complex piece of machinery with many small disks (clutches and steels) contained in larger cylinders forming clutch packs. The transmission uses both hydraulic fluid and electronics to control these clutch packs. When an automatic transmission goes bad, it doesnt need to be replaced---instead, it can be rebuilt. This rebuilding process requires some common tools and a few more-specific tools that the average mechanic may not have.

Ratchet Set

The ratchet is a common tool that nearly every mechanic has. This device, used in conjunction with a socket to remove nuts and bolts, is a long metal rod with a ratcheting head to hold the socket. The ratcheting head functions so that the mechanic can reset the wrench without having to remove the tool from the nut or bolt.

Socket Set

The socket is placed on the end of the ratchet and fits a nut or bolt. Sockets are small, cylindrical metal pieces that are hollow inside to allow a nut or bolt to be inserted. They come in many different sizes to fit the variety of bolt and nut sizes available.

Torque Wrench

A torque wrench is similar to a ratchet but is used only to tighten bolts. The other main difference is that it has an adjustable dial to select the proper torque amount for the particular bolt youre tightening; the wrench will emit an audible sound, typically a click, when it reaches the set torque value. This feature assures that bolts are not over- or under-torque, which is especially important when rebuilding a transmission.

Snap-Ring Pliers

Snap-ring pliers are a set of pliers that are used for opening instead of closing. The pliers have small pins on the ends that are inserted into the holes on a snap ring; the device is then opened to free the snap ring from the groove it sits in. This procedure is required when youre rebuilding a transmission, as the clutch packs are held together by these snap rings.

O-Ring Hook

The O-ring hook is a metal hook designed to pull an O-ring from the groove it sits in. An O-ring is a small rubber gasket thats in an "O" shape to create a seal. This is a must in all transmission rebuilds, as there are as many as 10 O-rings to be replaced in a rebuild.

Washer

A washer is between 3 to 5 feet tall and about 3 feet wide, depending on the model. It has a metal door on the front to place parts in for cleaning. Cleaning the transmission case and all of the reused hard parts is a requirement, as transmission failure may lead to metal shavings being spread throughout the internals of a transmission; failure to clean out these shavings can lead to transmission failure after the rebuild is completed. This washing ensures that all of the debris is cleaned out; it also makes all of the parts look new again.

Rebuilding Bench

The bench used is nearly as important as the tools used to disassemble the transmission. This type of bench has a slight slope so that all of the transmission fluid runs away from the mechanic and into a trough for proper disposal. This bench has different slots for all of the common tools used during a rebuild, including hooks so that the mechanic can hang small parts for reuse, as well as straps to hold the transmission in place during the rebuild.

Transmission Jack

The transmission jack is used to lower the transmission during removal and to lift it to reinstall it. This jack is about 3 feet tall and has a plate on top for the transmission to sit on and a series of ratcheting straps to secure the transmission.

The Jeep Liberty is a compact sport utility vehicle that Chrysler has manufactured under its Jeep marque since 2002. The Liberty CRD models were available for 2005 and 2006, and have a four-cylinder 2.8-liter turbo diesel engine that uses a common rail fuel injection system. The timing belt synchronizes the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt in a Jeep Liberty CRD requires replacement at regular intervals, usually at least 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and remove the engine cover. Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly. Detach the accessory drive belt and remove the vibration damper from the engine.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring the witness line on the hub of the crankshaft to the 12 o-clock position. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by 90 degrees to move the witness line to the 3 o-clock position. Disconnect the alternator with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the intake and exhaust camshaft plugs from the cover of the camshaft with a socket wrench to expose the alignment pins. Remove the outer cover for the timing belt. Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to loosen the timing belt and detach the timing belt. Remove the alignment pins from the crankshaft and loosen the camshaft gears with special tool VM 1085.

4

Install the alignment pins for the camshaft temporarily while you install the timing belt. Turn the gear for the fuel injection pump clockwise to align the timing mark on the gear with the timing mark on the inner cover of the timing belt.

5

Install the new timing belt onto the crankshaft hub. Place the timing belt onto the fuel injection pump gear, left idler pulley, intake camshaft gear, exhaust camshaft gear, right idler pulley, and water pump gear in that order.

6

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with special tool VM 9660 to align the center notch on the tensioner with the dowel pin on the aluminum cover. Tighten the retaining bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Place special tool VM 1085 between the camshaft gears. Tighten the thumb screws to hold the camshaft gears in place, and tighten the bolts for the camshaft gears to 80 ft. lbs. Remove special tool VM 1085 and the alignment pins from the camshaft.

8

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns to bring the witness mark on the crankshaft hub to the 3 o-clock position. Replace the outer cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Connect the camshaft plugs, vibration damper, alternator and cooling fan assembly. Attach the accessory drive belt and replace the engine cover. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Car engine pistons stroke up and down with the spark plug firing once for every four strokes. Each spark plug fires at a different time, providing balanced power as the engine runs. Firing order describes the sequence the pistons fire in.

Coil

The coil provides the electrical energy to make a spark. It delivers the energy to the ignition control system, which on older vehicles is a mechanical device called a distributor. Newer vehicles use advanced electronics to distribute the spark to the cylinders.

Cylinder Firing

The ignition control system delivers the spark to a cylinder at the exact moment the cylinder is ready to fire. The piston is nearly at the top of its compression stroke and the intake valve is closed. Each piston is ready to fire at a different time.

Firing Order

As the engine turns, each piston reaches the top of its compression stroke and fires in an exact order that provides the engine mechanical balance. Chevrolet 307 V-8 engines have a cylinder firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The front right cylinder is cylinder No. 1. The front left cylinder is cylinder No. 2. The second cylinder on the right is cylinder No. 3 and so on.

Carburetors deliver a combination of air and fuel to internal combustion engines. These components use intake and exhaust valves to divide and transport the air-fuel mixture into the engine. The Rochester carburetor came about in 1965, when General Motors (GM) began using them in its vehicles with eight-cylinder engines; GM continued to install the carburetors in its vehicles for nearly 20 years. As of 2011, you can purchase an aftermarket Rochester carburetor, also called a Quadrajet.

Rochester B

The Rochester B carburetor had a float level of 1.28 inches and a float drop of 1.75 inches. The idle vented at 0.05 inches with the engine stopped in an idle position and the choke open. The Rochester B had a bowl vent of 3 internal and 1 external idle, while the 292 version had a bowl vent of 2 internal and 1 external idle. The throttle bore measured 1.563 inches for the Rochester B, but 1.75 inches for the 292 version. The main venturi for the 230 Economy version measured 1.063 inches, the main venturi for the 230 P and 230 version measured 1.594 inches and the main venturi for the 292 version measured 1.625 inches. The small venturi for all Rochester B versions measured 0.594 inches. The Rochester B pump discharge jet measured 0.031 inches, while the 292 versions measured 0.035 inches. The idle speed jet measured 0.067 inches, while the 230 Economy versions measured 0.057 inches.

Rochester 2G

The Rochester 2G had a float level of 1.359 inches and a float drop of 1.906 inches. It had a bowl vent of 1 inside. The throttle bore measured 1.438 inches, while the pump discharge measured 0.026 inches. It had main venturi of 1.094 inches and a small venturi of 0.125 inches. The main metering jet measured 0.053 to 0.054 inches.

Rochester 4G 348 and Rochester 4G 409

The Rochester 4G 348 had a primary float level of 1.625 inches and a secondary float level of 1.688 inches. It had a float drop of 2.25 inches and a bowl vent of 2 inside. The throttle bore measured 0.438 inches, and the primary discharge jet measured 0.026 inches. It had a primary main venturi of 1.125 inches and a secondary main venturi of 1.25 inches. The small venturi measured 0.25 inches. The 348 versions primary main metering jet measured 0/055 inches, while the secondary main metering jet measured 0.069 inches. The 409 versions main metering jet measured 0.054 inches, and the secondary main metering jet measured 0.067 inches.

Idle Specifications

The idle speed jet for the Rochester B measured 0.067 inches, while the 230 economy version measured 0.057 inches. The Rochester 2G 283 versions idle tube measured 0.028 inches, the 327 versions measured 0.031 inches and the 348 versions measured 0.037 inches. The Rochester 4G carburetors primary idle tube measured 0.027 to 0.028 inches, and the secondary idle tube measured 0.040 inches.

The thermostat in your 1993 Thunderbird is the part of the cooling system that regulates internal engine temperatures by regulating the flow of coolant between the engine and the radiator. When you first start the engine, the thermostat is closed, keeping the coolant in the engine and circulating it between the radiator and the heater core. Once normal operating temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and the coolant begins flowing throughout the whole system. Replacing the thermostat is a job you can perform with minimal tools or experience in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Locate the drain valve, also known as a petcock valve, in the lower radiator tank. Place the drain pan under the petcock valve and open the valve, allowing the fluid to drain into the pan. Remove the radiator cap.

2

Locate the thermostat housing by following the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. The thermostat housing is at the end of the upper radiator hose.

3

Remove the two or three bolts that secure the thermostat housing to the engine by turning them counterclockwise with the socket and ratchet. You may need the universal swivel to access these bolts.

4

Grasp the thermostat housing where it connects to the upper radiator hose and pull sharply up at an angle to remove the housing. Make note of the orientation of the thermostat.

5

Remove the old thermostat. Use the gasket scraper to thoroughly clean off remains of the old gasket from both mating surfaces.

6

Install the new thermostat with the same orientation as the one you just removed.

7

Apply a thin coating of the RTV silicone to both housing mating surfaces and place the gasket against the housing.

8

Line up the bolt holes in the housing with those in the engine and replace the thermostat housing.

9

Install the retaining bolts by inserting them into the bolt holes and turning them clockwise until finger tight.

10

Torque the bolts to between 30 and 40 foot-pounds.

11

Close the petcock valve and pull the drain pan out.

12

Refill the radiator with the new coolant. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Top off the coolant level as needed. Replace the radiator cap. Top off the overflow bottle as needed.

13

Pour the used coolant into a suitable container and take it to a local repair shop or parts store for recycling or proper disposal.

A faulty fuel pump will cause an engine to stall, hesitate and perform poorly. Malfunctions with the actual fuel pump itself or its electrical components may lead to situations where the engine simply wont start. The Honda Civics fuel pump is controlled by several electrical fuses. Blown fuses are an additional cause of a fuel pump malfunction and engine failure. Troubleshooting the fuel pump on a Honda Civic involves proper fuel filter maintenance, listening for noises when attempting to start the engine and checking the electrical fuses.

Instructions

1

Attempt to start the vehicle. Listen for sounds of the engine attempting to crank. Open the hood of the vehicle and the oil cap. Crank the engine again and check for movement within the oil filler nozzle. Turn the cars ignition switch to the "on" position if there is movement within the oil filler nozzle. Make sure the check engine light comes on and off. Listen for a click relay sound when the check engine light turns off. Listen for a whining sound from the fuel pump.

2

Turn the Hondas ignition switch to the lock position prior to checking the fuse box. Turn off the headlights and any accessories that might be electrically powered. Check the electronic fuel injection main relay. Open the under-hood fuse box located on the drivers side, next to the brake fluid. Push on the two tabs located on each side of the boxs cover. Consult the diagram on the lid of the fuse box to determine which fuse controls the ignition system. Check all other fuses as a precaution.

3

Check each fuse in the under-hood box by performing a visual inspection of the inside wires. Use a screwdriver to remove each fuse as necessary. Take the fuse puller from the back of the under-hood fuse box puller and use it to pull each smaller fuse out of the box.

4

Locate the interior fuse box underneath the cars steering column. Use the fuse box puller to check all fuses in the interior fuse box. Look for blown wires inside each fuse. Replace blown fuses with a spare or a replacement. Locate spare fuses on the back of the under-hood fuse box cover. Replace fuses with a fuse of the same rating in order to ensure that a repeat blowout does not occur.

5

Take the vehicle to an authorized Honda dealer to perform computerized tests on the fuel pump if the fuses are determined to be working properly. Change the fuel filter if comfortable prior to taking the car to an authorized dealer.

Many mechanics purchase new equipment as necessity dictates and, over an entire career, they end up with a comprehensive set of tools. The beginning mechanic ought to seek out the necessities: the tools with the broadest range of applications and the tools most frequently used. Whether youre working on small engines or large machines, a familiarity with basic mechanical tools allows you to spend wisely and get to work.

Sockets

Sockets, also called "socket wrenches," loosen and tighten both nuts and bolts. A comprehensive set of sockets prepares the starting mechanic to remove and replace the components on a broad range of machinery, including automobiles engines, heavy equipment and industrial machinery. Sockets are basically hollow, cylindrical pieces of metal. The interior surface of a socket is specially designed to fit snugly over a specific size of nut or bolt. Sockets attach to handles and, individually, mechanics er to the handle as a wrench and the business end as a socket. Socket wrench handles may be rigid or ratcheting and sockets are available in a variety of lengths. The ratcheting sockets handle can move independent of the socket; for example, if twisted clockwise the handle and socket turn in unison and if twisted counterclockwise only the handle turns. The action of the ratcheting socket may be reversed at the turn of a dial. The starting mechanic requires a basic set of both metric and standard (inches) dimension sockets.

Wrenches

Wrenches, like sockets, loosen and tighten both nuts and bolts. Although there are many varieties of wrenches, the most basic, and useful, types for the starting mechanic are the box or "open," wrench and the ring wrench. Box and ring wrenches consist of two parts: a straight handle and a shaped gripping head. The box wrenchs gripping head is shaped roughly like a C; the mechanic pushes the C-shaped opening around a nut or bolt to grip the fasteners adjacent sides. The ring wrenchs gripping head is a closed circle; the mechanic slips the circle over a nut or bolt to engulf its sides. Typically, a gripping head rests at each end of a wrenchs handle. Frequently, a box wrench sits at one side of the handle with a similar-size open wrench at the other, two tools in one in effect. The starting mechanic requires a combination of both box and ring wrenches in standard and metric dimensions.

Screwdrivers

Like sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers loosen and tighten fasteners. However, screwdrivers loosen fasteners that have insertion bit heads, such as slotted openings or a Phillips-style head. Screwdrivers typically consist of three parts: a handle, straight shaft and gripping tip. Screwdriver handles are typically molded plastic, shafts and tips are metal. The length of the shaft occasionally determines the capability of the screwdriver; long shafts reach deep within a machine, short-shaft ones allow the mechanic to use the tool in tight spaces. Screwdriver tips are sometimes magnetized to hold screws in place and provide the mechanic with a free hand. The starting mechanic ought to carry screwdrivers of various lengths and with various gripping tips, such as slotted, star-shaped and Phillips.

While the muffler on your Chevy S-10 pickup does cut down the noise coming out of your exhaust, it also helps provide the proper back pressure and flow of exhaust gases out of the engine. The muffler and exhaust are designed to work with the engine to scavenge gases and allow more air and fuel to be fed in. If the exhaust has too much back pressure, it will reduce the intake capacity, and the engine in your S-10 will not run properly.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of the truck off the ground using a jack then position a set of jack stands under the frame to support the truck. Remove the jack and set it aside.

2

Locate the muffler at the rear of the truck. It connects to a flange at the rear of the catalytic converter and has several rubber hangers supporting it.

3

Locate the two retaining bolts that join the muffler to the back of the catalytic converter. Remove the bolts by turning them counterclockwise with a ratchet and socket then separate the two flanges. Let the front of the muffler hang down.

4

Move to the body of the muffler and locate the two rubber isolators that support the muffler from above it on the frame. Remove the rubber isolators from the hanger pins on the muffler and lower the muffler down then remove it from under the truck.

5

Position a new muffler under your S-10 and raise it up to the rubber isolators. Push the mounting pins on the muffler into the rubber isolators on the frame.

6

Raise the front of the muffler up and mate the flange on the muffler to the flange on the catalytic converter. Install the two mounting bolts in the flanges and tighten the flange mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Support the rear of the truck with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground and start the engine, listening for leaks in the exhaust.

Weve all heard the old saying, "Patience is a virtue." Wiser words have never been spoken when it comes to exhaust studs. Unfortunately, if you have to remove a stud, chances are its because it has already snapped and that renders the patience aspect null and void. There are ways to prevent snapping exhaust studs, but any exhaust repair technician, no matter what caliber, has experienced the broken stud. Now, the repair that was supposed to take an hour or two just doubled.

Before the Stud Snaps

The best friend to any exhaust technician is the oxyacetylene torch. Knowing how to use it is crucial, but sometimes access to the stud presents challenges beyond our control. Since there are several types of exhaust studs; manifold to cylinder head, manifold to front exhaust pipe and, sometimes, even downstream on the exhaust pipes leading to the catalytic converter, you must first determine what youre up against. A stud that runs through two flanges is a best-case scenario. These types of studs can be drilled out and a regular bolt and nut can replace them. But manifold-to-head studs dont offer this luxury. Nor do many front pipe to manifold studs. These studs screw in without access to the other side.

The oxyacetylene torch can be used to provide heat to the flange or surrounding area of the stud before attempting to remove it. The idea is to expand the metal surrounding the stud. If you apply direct heat to the stud and surrounding area, all youre doing is expanding both the stud and the internal threads. The heat will also soften the stud and it will defeat your attempt to prevent it from snapping.

Heat the flange only or the surrounding area near the stud and then employ a stud remover (see Resource 1), or a pair of vise grip pliers to gently turn the stud counterclockwise. A telltale sign the stud is coming out is an obnoxious squeaking. If the squeaking stops, apply more heat before continuing.

After the Stud Snaps

In some cases, no matter how hard you try to prevent it, the stud snaps. The best-case scenario is enough of the stud sticking out to be able to continue to use the stud extractor and torch. The worst case is the stud snapping flush to the flange. Expletives and wrench throwing may help you feel better, but will do very little to help your situation. At this point, drilling out the stud is required. During this operation, you have to be caul not to damage the threads to the mating threads of the stud or youll have to implement a heli-coil for the stud. But if you drill too much off-center, youll compromise the placement and alignment of the intended stud.

High-speed drill bits will need to be used. Left-handed drill bits will work best because they will work to turn the stud in the direction of removal. A small pilot hole needs to be drilled into the stud to start and it needs to be centered or all bets are off. Once the pilot hole is started, jump to the next size drill bit and continue this process until the stud is threads are extracted. Sometimes an extractor can be pounded into the pilot hold and employed to pull the rest of the stud out, but if patience isnt applied, you may find the hole you just drilled is now plugged up with a broken piece of your extractor.

Another way to extract broken studs is to weld a nut to the broken piece and then employ a ratchet and socket to remove the stud. This case can only be used when enough of the stud is accessible to weld the nut onto it.