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Wiring lights and brakes in a tow bar can be confusing. Different colored wires must be used, and different gauges as well. Furthermore, the wire must have the correct insulation. The task seems daunting at first. If you break it down into steps, and use some practical tips, the task that first looked daunting becomes easy.

Mount Lights First

Mount all the lights first. That way, you have good points of erence to run the wires to. Furthermore, by mounting the lights first, you are able to plan the routing of the wires accordingly.

Use Rubber Grommets

If wires must be ran inside the chassis, use rubber grommets on the drilled holes where the wires run through. You never want wires to rub on bare metal, since over time chafing occurs. Rubber grommets are inexpensive and readily available at any electrical supply house or trailer parts stores.

Use Correct Gauge

Use the correct gauge wire for the amperage load. For lights, 18 to 12 gauge wire is recommended. Eighteen gauge is the thinnest to 12 gauge being the thickest. RV manufacturers recommend 14 gauge for vehicle lights. If you are building a heavy duty electrical system, use 14 gauge wire for lights, and 12 gauge for the main power lines.

Understand Color Codes

Vehicle color codes are standardized for trailers and towing equipment. White colored wire is used for ground. Red colored is used for main power. Green is used for right turn lights, and yellow for left turn. Brown wire is used for tail and marker lights.

In 1906, Alanson Brush invented a new, more stable suspension system that incorporated front coil springs, shock absorbers and a flexible front axle. This all came about after William Brush -- Alansons brother -- crashed Alansons car, due to its primitive suspension system. In modern suspension systems there is a bar -- sway bar -- that spans the front, and sometimes the rear, suspension to help with vehicle cornering. A set of metal rods, known as sway bar links, attach to the ends of this bar, and they perform an important task.

Sway Bar Link Function

The sway bar links tie the control arms to the sway bar on the front of the vehicle, and the sway bar to the rear hub assembly, frame or axle beam on the rear of the vehicle. This tying of the suspension keeps the body as level as possible while cornering quickly. The sway bar links have rubber bushings to allow slight body roll. This body roll regulation prevents the weight of the vehicle from shifting, causing the vehicle to lose control.

Sway Bar Link Location

Auto manufacturers install one end of each sway bar link at each end of the sway bar, and the other end of the sway bar link to the control arm.

Sway Bar Link Types

There are two main types of sway bar links, one-piece and multi-piece. One-piece sway bar links have a long bar with studs on each end. The studs connect to a ball-and-socket joint to allow small movements of the link.

The multi-piece sway bar links typically have a total of 11 components, including one link bolt, four rubber bushings, four metal washers, one metal sleeve and one retaining nut. When replacing a multi-piece sway bar link, it is imperative that you install all components in the correct order. Failure to do so may result in poor handling and suspension noise.

Signs and Symptoms of Sway Bar Link Failure

When a one-piece sway bar link fails, it is sometimes hard to know -- it typically makes no noise. If you notice excessive body roll or lean when cornering, it is likely that the ball-and-socket joint has worn and is allowing too much movement.

A multi-piece sway bar link typically fails due to the deterioration of the rubber bushings. This results in excessive body roll or lean when cornering, and an audible jingling sound from the front end. The reason you hear this jingle is that once the bushings fail, the link is loose and bounces up and down with the texture of the road. On occasion, impact may bend or break a multi-piece sway bar link. In this instance you may hear a slight rubbing or banging noise from the front end. You will also notice excessive body roll.

A sway bar links opposing suspension components to counteract a cars tendency to pitch in tight turns. Most often, sway bars need to be repaired because the linkages between the bar and the suspension become worn or broken. Fortunately, the parts are relatively inexpensive and the repairs are simple for anyone with a floor jack and some free time.

Instructions

1

Find the broken link. Use the floor jack to lift the car so the wheel near the broken link is just off the ground. Remove the lug nuts and set the wheel aside.

2

Remove the broken linkage with the necessary wrenches. Typically there will be some stress in the sway bar that can be relieved by placing a second jack under the suspension arm and compressing the suspension just enough so you can remove the sway bar linkage.

3

Assemble the new linkage in place of the old one. Because different makes and models will vary, follow whatever directions are included with the sway bar repair kit youve purchased to ensure correct installation.

4

Replace the bushings at the contact point between the sway bar and the vehicles chassis. Depending on the repair kit that you bought, you may have to purchase new bushings separately.

5

Remove the bottle chack from the suspension. Reattach the wheel and lower the vehicle.

6

Repeat the process to replace the linkage on the other end of the sway bar. If one linkage has broken it is likely that the other one is also nearing the end of its service life. By replacing the linkages at both ends, you are also ensuring that they will be balanced.