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Measure your bike from the head pipe connection on the engine down to the foot pegs and then to the rear. Now sketch out a basic shape for your exhaust, using these measurements as a guide.

Build a full size template for your exhaust system on poster board, cardboard or plywood. Use a heavy marker, and be very precise with your measurements. Have a friend hold the template steady, and match it up several times. Be sure it works on both sides, if you are building exhaust on both sides, since each side of the bike is different.

Figure out how many welds you will need to make, if any, then purchase the tubes for your exhaust. Buy them to the full length of the system, which you should have measured using a flexible tape measure, or tailors measure. Measure the outside edge of each side for the most accurate measurement and take the larger one and add a foot or so.

Mark the location of each bend with a magic marker at the start of the bend. Allow for an extra half foot at the head pipe section so you can fit the tube in the bender.

Heat and bend the pipe at each mark. Make your bends fast but be accurate and do not over bend the pipe. You dont want to have to bend the pipe backwards again.

Finish your bending, then attach the muffler. It should slide right on to your pipes.

Attach the hardware for the exhaust to your bike. This might have to be custom made as well. Then be sure the exhaust fits all the attachments, including the head pipes and rear braces.

Attach your new exhaust and pat yourself on the back. You made your own motorcycle exhaust.

Park your Harley on a level surface. If you have ridden it recently, let it sit until the exhaust pipes are cool to the touch.

Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the end caps out of the exhaust pipes. The end caps are metal caps with a hole in the center that have been machine-pressed in to the ends. Insert your screwdriver into the center hole, and pry against the edge of the pipe until it pops free. You will then see the metal screed that covers the baffle.

Drill a hole through the center of the baffle. Use a drill with a metal bit that is 1 inch in diameter. Press the tip against the screen of the baffle, and press the drill into it while running it at a slow and steady speed. Push the drill into the baffle the entire length of the bit. This will place a direct hole through the screens and packing of the baffle and open it.

Use your spark plug boot to remove the spark plug from the engine. The spark plug is labeled and located on the side of the engine.

Pull your wire through the looms until you have access to the distributor cap.

Put a mark on the wire about 3 inches from the distributor cap with your permanent marker. Use your wire cutters to cut the wire.

Use the wire cutters to strip the wires about five-eighths of an inch from the spark plug wire and your replacement wire. Use wire nuts to connect the replacement wire with the existing wire.

Crimp the wire nut to make sure the wire nut stays secure. Push the new wire into the distributor cap to complete the installation.

Call the dealership and see how much it will charge you for a new set of keys. The keys will have to be found in inventory, cut and then coded for your particular car. Once you get a price, do a little comparison shopping.

Call a reputable automotive locksmith, preferably one recommended by your auto mechanic or through a listing with the Better Business Bureau. A reputable locksmith will more than likely give you a lower price quote than the dealership.

Place your order for your keys with a vendor. Expect it to take four hours to get a set of keys from a dealership and less than that from an automotive locksmith. If you are unable to travel to the dealership, a locksmith is by far the best choice as he will bring the key to you and test it in your ignition.