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If your vehicle gets old enough, chances are your windshield will get chipped or cracked. Replacing an entire windshield can be costly and is not environmentally friendly. In many cases windshields dont need to be replaced, particularly if the damage is minor. Most small chips and cracks can be easily repaired. You can do the job yourself in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Prepare the windshield by thoroughly cleaning the cracked area. Before you begin the repair process, make sure the windshield is clean, free of debris, and completely dry.

2

Take a razor blade and scrape off any excess glass particles that might be trapped in the crack itself, as well as any dried sap, bug carcasses, or other debris.

3

Clean the windshield thoroughly with soap and water, and let dry. Once completely dry, apply the glass cleaner solution.Solutions come in a variety of types, including chemical-based and eco-friendly.

4

Follow the directions on the auto glass repair kit, making sure you follow the exact steps. The synthetic glass resin used in these kits can be volatile if not applied correctly.

5

Apply the syringe of liquid glass compound to the inside of the crack, snapping and pulling the syringe across the length of the crack slowly. Use your clock or watch to precisely time these motions so the resin will fill in the crack without allowing any trapped air bubbles.

6

Fill in the entire crack from end to end with the resin, then let it sit under direct sunlight or ultraviolet lamp. The UV rays will chemically alter the resin from a liquid to a solid state.

7

Let the resin set for several hours to allow the curing process to finish. Once finished, use your razor blade to scrape any excess resin from the windshield.

The crankshaft position sensor is an electronic component designed to fine-tune the timing of a vehicles engine. The sensor works with the vehicles on-board computer to ensure the vehicle runs at optimal performance.

Purpose

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft to control the ignition system timing. The component aids in variable valve timing by monitoring the movement between the vehicles pistons, valves and the engine, noting the engines revolutions per minute.

Function

Made from magnets and an inductive coil, the crank position sensor is positioned next to the crankshaft. The crankshaft has several pins spaced an equal distance apart which is read and calculated by the magnets within the sensor as the crankshaft spins.

Location

These sensors are located in the lower front of the engine block either directly next to the crankshaft, within the main crank pulley or the flywheel. The crankshaft position sensor can be identified as a long, thin, black cord.

When it is important that a screw or a bolt is very tight, or if you need to loosen rusty or too-tight ones, an impact tool does the job. It converts the downward impact of its motor into a turning motion, which loosens almost any tight nuts, bolts or screws. With the fine craftsmanship of impact tools made in Germany you cant go wrong. Several well-known German companies produce impact tools for the professional or the hobbyist.

Elora Werkzeugfabrik

Elora Wekzeugfabrik is known for the manufacture of cutting-edge hand tools, and their impact tools are in demand among many professionals. Elora focuses on impact screwdrivers and screwdriver sets, hex bits and adapters. Elora impact screwdrivers are for left- and right-hand use, and feature a non-slip grip. Elora impact screwdriver sets feature a driver, several different-sized bits, and a hex adapter. Hex adapters, different bit inserts and Phillips bits can also be purchased separately.

Gedore Tools

The Gedore company has been manufacturing quality tools for over 90 years. The company claims that its tools are known for their safety features, precise manufacture, excellent ergonomics and long life. Gedore offers several impact drivers and impact screwdriver sets. Their impact extensions come in different sizes and can be used on all popular impact nut drivers. They also have impact sockets for use with air-operated and electric nut drivers, square drives which can be used to screw in and unscrew nuts from 1/4-inch to 2 1/2-inch diameters, and impact reducers in different sizes. Car impact socket sets are also available.

Stahlwille

Founded under the name of Edualrd Wille GmbH & Co.KG, Stahlwille manufactures high-grade tightening tools of all kinds. They specialize in machine-powered impact tightening tools, such as wrenches, socket tools, drives and connectors. They offer long impact sockets and impact hex sockets, in sets or singly. They also offer impact sets, which include drivers, adapters and different sockets. Different drivers, some with inside hexagon for screwdriver bits, also come separately.

Hazet

Hazet was established in 1868, and today the company is among the most advanced in Europe. Hazet offers a popular line of impact wrenches, covered with a shock-resistant ultra-light plastic or magnesium housing, giving them maximum performance with little weight. The wrenches also have a powerful twin-hammer mechanism and several power settings for forward and reverse. Their cold-insulated handle minimizes vibrations, and the exhaust air is guided downwards through the handle. Hazets impact wrenches come in several different sizes.

You can lower the front and the back of a Harley. Numerous aftermarket vendors sell "drop in" fork lowering kits that will lower your front end. But lowering the front end decreases ground clearance, which means your bike will no longer -- barely -- clear that parking lot speed bump. Getting hung up on that bump will damage your bike. Since this is an 883 Sportster, usually an entry-level Harley, a better place to begin might be to slightly lower the rear end by installing shocks that are one inch under stock length. Your seat will be lower, and an entry-level biker can do it himself.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster to fully upright and level by slightly raising the bike on a motorcycle jack, by driving the front wheel into a motorcycle chock, or by clamping the front wheel upright in a motorcycle clamp.

2

Unbolt the lower right shock mounting bolt that connects the old shock absorber to the frame. The bolts on Sportsters shipped after 2005 come off with an Allen socket. Earlier models unfasten with a deep well hex socket.

3

Remove the bolt, nut and washer. Remove the top mounting bolt on the right shock and save all the hardware.

4

Remove the left shock by repeating these steps.

5

Spread three or four drops of thread locker over the screws of all the mounting bolts with your finger. Bolt the new, 1-inch-under-standard-length shock absorbers into the same holes with the same bolts that held the original shocks in place. Use a torque wrench and an Allen or deep well hex socket to tighten the bolts to 48 foot pounds of torque.

6

Lower the jack or remove the bike from the chock or clamp. Push the rear end of the bike down and let it rebound up to be sure that the new shocks work.

Harley-Davidson flywheel assemblies have undergone one major change in the last century. From 1909 until 1986, Harley crankshaft assemblies were actually constructed of numerous individual parts. Harley simplified this construction in 1987. One dives deep into the crankcase either because one has thrown a rod or otherwise blown ones engine apart or because one wants to balance the flywheels. Nothing else is worth it. Reaching the flywheel assembly requires the complete disassembly of the rest of the engine. Here is what you can do to a flywheel assembly on a post-1986 engine after you have taken everything else apart.

Instructions

1

Hold the flywheel assembly so it does not tumble out of the left crankcase half. Rotate the bottom end assembly in an engine stand so the assembly is upright and the flywheel shafts are horizontal.

2

Caully slide the flywheel assembly out of the left crankcase.

3

Install aluminum vise jaws and shop rags in the jaws of a bench vise. Clamp the flywheel support structure in the vise.

4

Insert the crankshaft end through the hole in the middle of the flywheel support structure.

5

Slide the structures knurled locating pin down the slot in the structure to engage the crank pin hole. Hand tighten the locating pin.

6

Slide the structures hold-down clamp down the slot to engage the inboard side of the right flywheel half. Hand tighten knurled nut at bottom to secure. Repeat step above to secure the hold-down clamp on the opposite side of the flywheel.

7

Position the wedge attachment on the inboard side of the thrust washer. Turn both hex nuts on the bottom of the wedge attachment an equal number of turns with an open end wrench to draw the wedge halves together.

8

Install two 6 1/2-inch-long, 3/8-inch bolts with flat washers through the channels in the bridge of a main shaft bearing inner race puller-installer. Thread both bolts into the wedge attachment an equal number of turns.

9

Apply graphite lubricant to the threads of the main shaft bearing inner race puller-installer forcing screw. Start the forcing screw into the bridge of the inner race puller-installer.

10

Place the cupped side of the hardened plug against the end of the sprocket shaft. Thread the forcing screw through the bridge until the screw makes firm contact with the hardened plug.

11

Heat the bearing inner race for 30 seconds with a heat gun. Turn the forcing screw with a breaker bar and hex socket until the thrust washer and bearing inner race move 1/8 inch.

12

Loosen the hex nuts on the long bolts in the wedge attachment with an open-end wrench. Turn each nut an equal number of times to separate the halves of the wedge attachment.

13

Turn the wedge attachment one half turn and retighten the hex nuts on the long bolts. Tighten each nut an equal number of turns to draw the wedge halves together.

14

Heat the bearing inner race for 30 seconds with a heat gun. Turn forcing screw with a breaker bar and hex socket until bearing inner race pulls free of socket.

15

Discard thrust washer and bearing inner race. Original post-1986 equipment flywheels are now completely disassembled.

16

Reassemble the flywheel assembly with a new thrust washer and new bearing inner race. Other parts may be cleaned and reused.

A vehicle that shows signs of electrical problems can be frustrating, as many people use to tamper with electricity. However, with the right tools and information, even a novice can troubleshoot some of todays common auto electrical issues.

Circuits & Voltage

Components in an electrical circuit cannot be powered without voltage. Theore step one in troubleshooting for electrical problems in a vehicle is to see if voltage is reaching the circuits load point, for example a light bulb. A test light or voltmeter will work well when performing this check.

Circuit Breakers & Fuses

An absence of voltage at the circuits load point could be due to blown fuses or issues with the circuit breaker. Replacing fuses will often only bring about temporary fixes until the problem that caused the blown fuse in the first place is found. A jumper wire can be used to bypass a circuit breaker, allowing you to check it. A working circuit means a non-working circuit breaker.

Intermittent Troubleshooting

Intermittent electrical issues are considered to be the most difficult kind to deal with, and often stem from loose wire connections. Because of this, wiggling the wires while testing for changes in voltage could help reveal the location of the bad connection.

The Toyota 3S-FE engine is a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It was produced from 1986 to 2000. During that period, it was the engine that powered various Toyota vehicles, including Camry models for 1987 through 1992. The cylinder block in the 3S-FE engine is iron, and the cylinder head is an aluminum alloy. The removal of the cylinder head for this engine should require four to five hours for an experienced mechanic.

Instructions

1

Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the radiator drain. Allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug. Seal the container, and store it for later use.

2

Disconnect the throttle cable and its bracket from the throttle body with a socket wrench if your vehicle has an automatic transmission. For all vehicles, detach the accelerator cable and its bracket from the throttle body. Remove the actuator and its bracket from the cruise control if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the hose from the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Disconnect the alternator and oil pressure gauge from the engine. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench and raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands and disconnect the right front wheel assembly. Detach the splash shield from the right front wheel well.

4

Disconnect the lower cross member for the suspension with a socket wrench. Remove the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter and disconnect the distributor from the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector for the water temperature sender gauge and remove the sender gauge from the vehicle. Detach the switch connector for the cold start injector.

5

Disconnect the radiator hoses and emission control hoses from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the water bypass pipe and the exhaust gas recirculation valve from the engine. Disconnect the air hose for the throttle body and remove the throttle body. Remove the hoses from the power steering unit if your vehicle is so equipped.

6

Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench and discard the gasket. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the injectors and remove the injectors from the engine. Unscrew the spark plugs and remove them from the engine.

7

Disconnect the camshaft pulley and the No. 1 idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the spring from the timing belt tensioner and detach the No. 3 cover for the timing belt. Support the timing belt to prevent it from shifting on the crankshaft pulley.

8

Disconnect the grommets on the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Label the grommets to ensure you install them in their original positions. Remove both camshafts from the engine.

9

Remove the 10 mounting bolts on the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening them in three separate passes. Tap the cylinder head with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the engine block. Place the cylinder head on a clean work surface. Discard the old gasket for the cylinder head. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.