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The procedure for removing both the inner and outer fairings on any Big Twin, Large Forked, Heavy, Touring Harley, which is what FLHT means, is both complicated and straightforward. The outer fairing and windshield come off first. The ignition must be partially removed. Obvious sections of the electrical harness must be unplugged. The hand controls must be removed from behind the fairing. Then you can finally pry the bat wing off the front of your motorcycle.

Instructions

Remove Outer Fairing and Windshield

1

Hang towels over the front fender to protect the paint and chrome. Straddle the front fender and loosen the outer fairing screws just below the windshield with a Torx head socket and ratchet.

2

Step to the riders side of the fairing and pull out the two inner fairing screws over the wind deflectors with a Torx head socket and ratchet.

3

Turn the handlebars completely right. Loosen and pull out the outer fairing screw under the right fairing cap with a Torx head socket, socket extension and a ratchet.

4

Turn the handlebars completely left. Loosen and pull out the outer fairing screw under the left fairing cap with a Torx head socket, socket extension and a ratchet.

5

Push the outer fairing forward. Squeeze the two tabs outside the headlight housing and disconnect wiring harness plug connector behind the headlight.

6

Pull the outer fairing and the headlight off the motorcycle by hand without knocking the windshield off the motorcycle.

7

Set the outer fairing down and pluck the windshield off the front of the bike. Remove and save all pieces.

8

Lift the fairing with the headlamp assembly off the motorcycle. Lift the windshield off the bike.

Remove Ignition

9

Disconnect the male and female parts of the directional signal and passing lamp connectors. Loosen the passing lamp brackets from the fork brackets with a Torx head socket a ratcheting socket wrench.

10

Remove the passing lamp from the forks.

11

Insert the motorcycle key in the motorcycle ignition. Turn the key to "unlock" and set the ignition knob to "access."

12

Push the catch tab on the bottom left of the ignition knob with a flathead screwdriver. Push down and turn the key from 5 oclock to 3 oclock. Pull the knob off the ignition.

13

Remove the switch nut from the nut stud with a ratcheting socket wrench, socket extension and hex socket.

Remove Hand Controls

14

Remove the chrome trim from the inner fairing by hand and set aside

15

Pull up the rubber boot that covers the clutch cable adjuster assembly on the left side of the bike. Turn the long clutch cable adjuster jam nut and the clutch cable adjuster nut in opposite directions with two open end wrenches.

16

Completely loosen the clutch cable by turning the clutch cable adjuster nut with your fingers.

17

Remove the pivot pin retaining ring from the pivot pin on the bottom of the clutch hand control assembly with a flathead screwdriver. Pull the pivot pin out of the top of the assembly with needle nose pliers.

18

Unfasten the clutch hand control assembly with a Torx head socket and ratchet. Remove the clutch hand control from the clutch hand control assembly.

19

Lift the clutch control pin from the clutch cable. Push the clutch cable and through the weatherized hole in the inner fairing.

20

Stick a 5/32 inch thick cardboard insert between the front brake hand control and the front brake hand control bracket to protect the rubber boot and plunger on the front brake hand control stoplight switch and plunger.

21

Loosen the switch housing and master cylinder screws with a Torx head driver and ratcheting socket wrench. Remove the switch housing and master cylinder.

22

Slip the throttle off the handlebars with the help of a flathead screwdriver. Unhook the two throttle cables from the cable housing.

23

Push the two throttle cables through the weatherized hole in the inner fairing.

Remove Inner Fairing

24

Disconnect the cigarette lighter contacts.

25

Disconnect the right and left speaker adapters from the inner fairing with a Torx head socket, a socket extension and a ratcheting socket wrench.

26

Unplug the fuel gauge and voltmeter male and female wiring harness plugs. Loosen the four screws that hold the inner fairing to the fairing bracket with a Torx head driver, a socket extension and a ratcheting socket wrench.

27

Pull the inner fairing and fairing bracket apart with your hands to separate them both from the mounting pins.

28

Lift the fairing bracket and inner fairing straight up. Pull the fairing bracket and inner fairing apart and remove the inner fairing.

Rotary is a brand of vehicle service lift produced by the Vehicle Service Group and distributed throughout the world. The lifts are available in several configurations, including small mid-rise lifts, two-post lifts and heavy duty four post truck lifts. Each lift has a set of requirements that must be met when it is installed. Because Rotary lifts often raise several tons into the air, these installation requirements are an important factor in keeping operators safe.

Concrete

Rotary lifts must be installed on a quality concrete floor that is free of cracks and defects. The minimum anchor depth for Rotary lifts is 3 1/4 inches. The total overall concrete thickness must be at least 4 1/4 inches for two-post lifts, or 5 inches for heavy-duty four-post lifts. The concrete must be rated to withstand 3,000 pounds per square inch. Rotary lift concrete anchors must be torqued to 150 foot-pounds.

Bay

Standard two-post Rotary lifts must be installed in a bay of at least 12 feet inch length and 24 feet in width. For heavy duty two-post lifts, this requirement increases to 12 feet by 26 feet. Low rise Rotary lifts must be installed in an 11-foot-by-24-foot bay, while four-post lifts require a 15-foot-by-23-foot bay size. The minimum ceiling height for a Rotary lift is 10 feet. Heavy duty four-post lifts require approximately 5 feet of additional ceiling clearance.

Electrical

Rotary lifts can be installed using several different electrical sources. The required electrical breaker size changes depending on the input voltage. For single-phase 100 volt installations, lightweight Rotary lifts require a 15 amp breaker, while larger lifts need a 25 amp breaker. Single-phase 220 volt installations must have either a 20 amp or 40 amp breaker, depending on the capacity of the lift. This breaker requirement drops to 20 amps if three-phase wiring is used. Installations using 400 volts and three-phase wiring require only a 10 amp breaker.

Hydraulic

Rotary lifts require Dextron III automatic transmission fluid, or a similar International Standard for Organization specification fluid for use in the hydraulic system. Standard two-post Rotary lift installations must have 19 quarts, or 17.98 liters, of fluid. The lightweight mid rise lift requires only 6.5 quarts, while the heavy duty Rotary lift must have 22 quarts.

Automotive O2 sensors determine in real time if the air fuel ratio of your vehicles engine is lean or rich. They make electronic fuel injections and emission control possible. Sensors typically last from 30,000 miles to more than 100,000 miles. Driving with a bad O2 sensor is like avoiding going to the dentist. You will cause damage to your car, just as you would cause damage to your teeth by avoiding the dentist. The only issue is how much damage you are willing to endure before you replace your O2 sensor.

Instructions

1

Drive the speed limit at all times. Do not speed. Your gas mileage and catalytic converter are already in jeopardy due to the bad O2 sensor. The harder you drive, the more damage you will cause to your catalytic converter.

2

Accelerate slowly. Slamming on the gas to achieve quick acceleration will exacerbate any damage being done to your vehicle.

3

Brake often. Again, the slower you drive, the better. Leave at least three to five seconds of time between yourself and the vehicle in front of you.

4

Plan out your trips before you leave your home. If you plan ahead of time, you will avoid backtracking and any unnecessary driving.

5

Limit driving as much as possible. If you can wait to mail that letter to your grandma, wait. If you can walk to any spots you need to go to, do so. Walking is good exercise and it will limit wear and tear on your car.

Exercise caution and safety measures if you decide to remove the manual transmission from your Ford Explorer sport-utility vehicle. The task will require that you move one of the heaviest components of your vehicle as you remove other pieces of equipment. It will take several hours but you can save a substantial amount of money on repairs if you remove the transmission yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and detach the battery cables.

2

Remove the upper part of the gearshift, boot, console and lever with a socket wrench and Phillips screwdriver.

3

Lift the front and rear of your Ford Explorer with a floor jack and position the four jack stands beneath the frame. Lower the frame onto the jack stands.

4

Position a catch bucket beneath the transmission. Remove the drain plug with a wrench and drain the transmission fluid.

5

Unplug all electrical connectors, sensors and wire harnesses from the transmission.

6

Remove the starter motor from the engine with a socket wrench.

7

Use a socket wrench and pry bar to detach the front drive shaft if your Explorer has a transfer case.

8

Repeat this process with the rear drive shaft with the same tools.

9

Detach the exhaust inlet crossover pipe and catalytic converter with the socket wrench. A breaker bar may be necessary to use on the exhaust pipe mounting bolts for leverage.

10

Support the transfer case, if your Explorer is so equipped, with a transmission jack. Use the socket set to detach the transfer case and and remove it.

11

Detach the clutch hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder with the disconnect tool.

12

Hold up the transmission with a transmission jack and a safety strap.

13

Loosen the two nuts that secure the transmission insulator to the cross-member with a socket wrench.

14

Loosen the six bolts that secure the cross-member to the frame with a socket wrench.

15

Remove the two nuts that secure the transmission insulator to the cross-member. Remove the cross-member.

16

Loosen the nine bolts that secure the transmission to the engine.

17

Remove the transmission from the vehicle.

At some point nearly every car owner will need to have a car repaired, and the majority feel forced to rely on the mechanic to make an honest assessment of the work necessary to maintain or repair the car. Since most drivers do not have the knowledge or equipment required for anything but the simplest repairs, they need guidance on how to find an honest mechanic. A few simple steps can lead a car owner to that very person.

Instructions

1

Ask a specialist in diagnostics to assess repairs and maintenance for the car. A diagnostician has no reason to add nonexistent problems to a list of repairs, but he will want to include all the real problems to earn the customers future business. Compare what the diagnostician found to what other shops tell you.

2

Ask friends, family or an insurance agent for recommendations. Make sure they have actual experience with a mechanics work.

3

Call any potential repair shops to ask for a list of their trade association memberships and call those associations to confirm membership. Check a shops complaint history with your states consumer protection agency or the local Better Business Bureau. This history also may include the resolution of those complaints. Look not only for the mechanic with a low number of complaints but also for a mechanic with a good history of complaint resolution.

4

Ask mechanics about their ability to work on your make and model and check their shops for certifications to work on that make and model. Also look at the cars on the work bays or on the lot. A number of cars of the same or similar make and model indicate an ability to work on your car.

5

Determine the shops prices and the warranty on work done. Shops often post that information in plain view on the work floor.

6

Talk to the mechanics in the shop. Their willingness to answer questions and the clarity of their answers are indicators of their honesty.

7

Instruct the mechanic to diagnose the car and reject any mechanic whose estimate is grossly in excess of the diagnostic mechanics estimate. Review the proposals for a clause specifying the installation of new parts rather than used ones.

Produced by the Ford Motor Corporation, the Ford 150 is the most common variant of the Ford F-Series. This truck was named Car of the Year in the U.S. for 23 consecutive years and also best selling truck for 30 years. The second generation was launched in 1953 and 2009 saw the launch of the 12th generation of this truck. Like the old generations, the alignment specifications for all the two-wheel drives has been the same, while that for the four-wheel drives has also been the same -- except for the Raptor.

2010 F-150 Two-Wheel Drive

In the two-wheel drive, the ideal caster settings are +3.9 degrees for the front left wheel and +4.3 degrees for the front right wheel. There is an allowance for 1 degree in either direction for each wheel, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The camber settings are -0.2 degrees for the front left wheel and -0.4 for the front right wheel. The range of variation is 0.75 degrees in either direction, or a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The ideal settings for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees, but can range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

2010 F-150 Four-Wheel Drive

In the four-wheel drive, the ideal caster settings are +3.8 degrees for the front left wheel, and +4.2 degrees for the front right wheel. There is an allowance for 1 degree in either direction for each wheel, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The camber settings are -0.2 degrees for the front left wheel and -0.4 for the front right wheel. The range of variation is 0.75 degrees in either direction, or a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The ideal settings for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but can range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

2010 F-150 Raptor

The caster setting for the front wheels is +3.7 degrees, with a one degree in either direction range or a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. Front end wheels camber settings for both wheels are -0.45 degrees, with a range of 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Weatherstripping in your 1957 Chevy protects the interior of the car by keeping out wind, rain and snow with a tight seal between windows and doors. Weatherstripping in vent glass can wear out and lose its ability to seal. Chevy owners who want to save money can do the job of replacing the weatherstripping with simple tools and supplies purchased from an auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Roll down and examine all windows to determine whether the weatherstripping is cracked or brittle. If so, the weatherstripping will have to be replaced.

2

Use needle-nose pliers and a razor blade knife to remove the cracked, brittle weatherstripping. Cut underneath it with the razor blade and pull the weatherstripping out with the needle-nose pliers.

3

Scrape off any old glue stuck to the door frame with the razor blade knife.

4

Spread a thin layer of glue from the weatherstripping kit onto both the door frame and the weatherstripping. Allow the glue to dry to tacky. Slide the weatherstripping into the door frame with the pliers and press the surfaces together. Repeat the process for the other side.

5

Repeat Steps 2-4 at any other windows for which weatherstripping needs to be replaced.

6

Allow the glue to dry for 30 minutes, then carefully roll up the windows. Allow the windows to remain undisturbed for at least a day before rolling down the windows.