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Illinois catalytic converter and emissions equipment regulations (collectively erred to as "smog" laws) generally follow the guidelines set by the federal government. The primary difference between Illinois and any other state is not the specific catalytic converter requirements, but how and where they are enforced.

Removal

You cannot remove any functioning catalytic converter from any vehicle originally equipped with one, except for the purposes of replacement. Fines for removal go to the mechanic, and (as per federal standards) can be as much as $10,000. The vehicle owner may or may not be fined, but the owner will be responsible for installing a working converter.

Replacement Conditions

It is illegal to tamper with, modify or otherwise molest any catalytic converter unless you have a certification stating that it is either missing or malfunctioning. These certifications can be obtained at any institution licensed for annual smog testing.

Replacement

If you do meet the replacement conditions, then you can only replace your catalytic converter with one of the same make, model and type as that originally installed on your car. You must also install the new converter in the same location on the car as the old.

Converter Warranties

Converters designed for vehicles 1996 and later must come from the manufacturer with at least an 8 year/80,000-mile warranty.

Exceptions

While converter laws technically apply to all vehicles, you cant be fined if your vehicle never gets inspected. The following vehicles are exempted from annual smog checks: motorcycles, farm vehicles, vehicles registered in 1967 or earlier, vehicles 25 years of age or older, diesels, boats, non-hybrid electric vehicles, off-road only race vehicles and vehicles for which a "junking certificate" has been issued.

Affected Counties

All vehicles in Cook, Dupage and Lake counties must receive annual smog checks. Vehicles in Kane, Kendall, McHenry, Will, Madison, Monroe and St. Clair counties must be annually smog checked unless you live in one of the exempted ZIP codes.

The catalytic converter in the Ford Escape is the part of the exhaust system, which changes or converts harmful chemicals, such as hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide, into cleaner less harmful emissions. Sensor monitor how efficiently these chemicals are converter and when a catalytic converter has problems, the engine in the Ford Escape will not work at its highest performance.

Catalytic Converter Clogs

The Ford Escape has many reports about the catalytic converter clogging. The catalytic converter is honeycomb-shaped and can melt when overheated. This honeycomb generally runs at a temperature of 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit and when the harmful chemicals begin to build-up in the catalytic converter, the operating temperature increases. When the operating temperature increases in the catalytic converter, the materials which make up the honeycomb shape of the converter begin to melt causing the converter to clog. This clogging does not allow exhaust to be converted and backs up into the engine causing it to stall or choke the engine. The catalytic converter in the Ford Escape must be replaced to correct this problem.

Catalytic Converter Leaks

The catalytic converter has reports about a loud noise developing under the Ford Escape. This loud noise is attributed to the catalytic converter leaking from around the seals or connections. The exhaust system has several connection points which is attached together with gaskets, bolts and nuts. As road debris and pollutants build-up on these connections, the connection begin to deteriorate and fail causing a leak in the exhaust system. This leak creates a loud noise when operating the Ford Escape. The Escape owner must inspect the exhaust system, particularly around the catalytic converter connection, to determine if there is a leak in the exhaust system and replace the gasket or damaged connections in order to correct this problem.

O2 Sensor Failure

One of the most common problems with the catalytic converter in the Ford Escape is an O2 sensor failure. The O2 sensor monitors the performance of the catalytic converter and forwards this information to the Escapes computer system. When the O2 sensor fails, the engine in the Escape will begin to stall, misfire, choke or jerk during acceleration. Replacing the O2 sensor corrects this problem, but the sensor may not last long because the catalytic converter can be the source of the O2 sensor failure. The catalytic converter can fail to convert the harmful chemical over time because of a breakdown or worn filtering system. The catalytic converter must be replaced when this problem develops on the Ford Escape.

Catalytic converters are probably the single most expensive item on your car by weight. These emissions-control devices contain several different kinds of precious metals including platinum, rhodium and palladium. Palladium values at about $730 per ounce, which helps to justify the massive investment required to extract it. Odds are you wont be getting into the palladium extraction business unless your name is Gates, Branson or Buffett, but you can at least make some friendly discussion by discoursing on the particulars of carbochlorination and palldium precipitation through aqua regia immersion.

Instructions

1

Remove the ceramic matrix from the center of the catalytic converter and place it into a sealed oven capable of heating it to 800 degrees Celsius (1,472 degrees Fahrenheit).

2

Pump into the oven and through your ceramic matrix material in a pure chlorine gas (Cl2) atmosphere containing equal amounts of aerosolized silicon tetrachloride (Si-Cl4) and aerosolized Aluminum chloride (Al-Cl3) powder pre-heated to 800C. Circulate the gas through the ceramic matrix for 30 minutes, and use a silica crystal filter to catch the crystallized metals in the gas stream.

3

Repeat Step 2 using only the chlorine gas atmosphere and aluminum chloride, but this time raise the temperature to 1,000C and circulate for six hours. At this point, effectively all of the precious metals should have been leached out of the converters ceramic core, bonded to the aluminum dioxide and deposited as a crystalline buildup on your filter.

4

Drop your crystalline filter into a solution of the powerful corrosive aqua regia, also known as nitro-hydrochloric acid. This amazing acid was fist discovered by 17th century alchemists, and is one of the few substances on Earth that will dissolve platinum, palladium, rhodium, gold, titanium and iridium. Allow the metal-infused filter to sit until the aqua regia dissolves all of the metal crystals.

5

Pour the mixture through a one-micron filter into a separate container. Add mercuric cyanide to the mixture. The mercuric cyanide will bond with the palladium in the aqua regia to precipitate crystals of pure palladium cyanide. Pass the mixture once more through a one-micron filter to collect the crystals, but keep the fluid for further refining of other metals.

6

Allow the crystals time to dry completely. Ignite the volatile crystals to break the cyanides nitrogen/carbon bonds to the palladium, and recover the cyanide to recycle it for further recovery. This will leave you with a silvery-white puddle of molten metal; behold, for this is your palladium.

Catalytic converters are a legally-required part of the exhaust system of every gasoline-burning vehicle in the United States. These systems clean the leftover fuel that comes through the cars exhaust and makes it less damaging to the atmosphere before it is released. When the converter malfunctions, however, it can cause your car to smoke or your check engine light to illuminate. The catalytic converter system in your Mustang GT is near the center of the car, between the engine and the mufflers. The 1996 Mustang GT has dual exhaust pipes which are routed from the muffler to the rear of the car on either side.

Instructions

1

Use a jack to raise the rear of your Mustang off the ground and secure it with jack stands. Do not attempt to repair or remove any part of the exhaust system unless you are certain the car has not been running. This system gets very hot when the engine is fired.

2

Use plastic ties or heavy duty wire to secure the exhaust pipes to the Mustangs frame. Once the catalytic converter is removed, these pipes may fall if not secured.

3

Locate the Mustangs O2 sensors. There will be one in front of the catalytic converter and one behind in Mustangs manufactured after 1995. You should only have to remove the one in front. Use an O2 sensor wrench to loosen the sensor and its connecting pipe, then remove them with your hand.

4

Use a socket set to remove the bolts in the front and rear of the catalytic converter. Sometimes this is difficult to do. If they seem frozen into place, spray a rust-breaking automotive lubricant on the bolts and allow to sit for one hour.

5

Tap the catalytic converter with a hammer, keeping one hand on the unit. If it seems to move easily, pull it out of the muffler pipe and remove it. If it does not move easily, rap it several times with the hammer until you can remove it with your hand.

Removal of a catalytic converter is not a task for a novice. It requires the skill of a certified mechanic who is a trained and experienced welder as well as technician. Removing the catalytic converter requires dealing with highly flammable gasoline and a cutting torch that can cause severe burns and damage the eyes retina by way of welding flash. For a certified technician this is a relatively simple procedure involving dropping the gas tank, cutting the old converter out and welding in a new one. For the novice, this is an extremely dangerous procedure that should not be attempted.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel filter housing located in the trunk under the carpet. Disconnect both wires going to the filter housing. Remove the filter with the housing and set aside.

2

Remove as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible. If the vehicle has a drain plug, place a drip pan under the vehicle and remove the plug. Allow all the fuel to drain out of the tank. This does not make the tank completely safe, Gas fumes are the most explosive part of dealing with fuel. Draining the fuel makes the procedure safer but not completely safe.

3

Remove the drip pan from under the car and discard the fuel in an OSHA approved container. Do not dump on the ground. Fines for this kind of disposal are large and are to be avoided. Replace the drain plug in the fuel tank and find the bolts holding the retaining straps on either side of the tank. Make sure you wear safety glasses throughout this procedure to prevent getting residual gas in your eyes. If you get gas in your eyes, flush with water for five minutes and seek medical help.

4

Once you have located the bolts holding the retaining straps, use an open end box end wrench or ratchet and socket set to loosen the bolts. (if your vehicle needs to be raised to get under it, use a hydraulic jack and jack stands or a hydraulic car lift). Place a hydraulic jack rated the the gross weight of you vehicle in the center of the fuel tank.

5

Remove the mount bolts and let the fuel tank rest on the jack. Slowly lower the tank and pull out from under the car with the hydraulic jack. Make sure the fuel tank is in an open air area of the shop so that the fumes can dissipate.

6

Raise the vehicle and use a hydraulic jack and jack stands or a car lift (preferred), to raise the vehicle high enough that the welder can stand under the car. Measure the length of exhaust pipe coming out each end of the converter. Mark the exhaust line in the vehicle to match the measurement of the new converter.

The 1998 Subaru Outback uses two catalytic converters in the exhaust system, one in the front and one in the rear. Theyre attached, so removing them can be done as one unit or by separating them. Both catalytic converters also have oxygen sensors in them; be sure to disconnect the electrical connectors for them or remove the oxygen sensors from the converter entirely before removing the converter from the car.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the car with a jack. Support the car with a set of jack stands, positioning them under the frame rails.

2

Locate the catalytic converters at the front of the exhaust system. There are three heat shields surrounding the converters; removing the nuts and bolts that secure them to the exhaust is necessary. Use a socket and ratchet to remove the hardware, then remove all three of the heat shields from the car. Set them aside.

3

Locate the oxygen sensor in the front catalytic converter. Disconnect the electrical connector from the wiring harness by pressing the locking tab in on the plug, then separate the two connectors. Move to the rear converter and disconnect the electrical harness the same way.

4

Move back to the front catalytic converter and find the two mounting bolts in the front mounting flange. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Now move to the rear converter and remove the two mounting bolts in the rear flange. Lower the assembly down and remove it from under the car.

5

Remove the mounting bolts in the flange that connect the front and rear converters together, then separate the two converters. You can separate them under the car and remove one at a time; but it is easier to pull both as a unit, replace the one you need to replace, and reinstall them as an assembly.

A catalytic converter is an exhaust emissions device that is part of a vehicles exhaust system. In charge of lowering the exhaust emissions that exit a vehicles tail pipe, a catalytic converter can negatively impact vehicle performance if it goes bad or stops working properly. What follows is a brief list of the most common signs of a bad catalytic converter.

Reduced Exhaust Flow

A major sign of a plugged up and/or bad catalytic converter is reduced exhaust flow measured at the vehicle tail pipe. Engine exhaust must travel through a catalytic converter before exiting the tail pipe; a bad catalytic converter can block and/or impede exhaust flow.

Reduced Engine Power

If a bad catalytic converter seriously impedes the flow of a vehicles engine exhaust flow, reduced engine horsepower can occur. This is due to the increase in engine exhaust back pressure that results whenever engine exhaust flow is impeded and/or reduced.

Reduced Exhaust Pipe Temperature

It is common for a bad and/or plugged catalytic converter to cause abnormally low exhaust pipe temperatures on the backside of a catalytic converter. As engine exhaust exits an engine and travels down the exhaust system and through the catalytic converter, the exiting exhaust flow can be restricted enough to cause significantly reduced exhaust pipe temperatures between the catalytic converter and the tail pipe.

Increased Hydrocarbon Emissions

Catalytic converters work by reducing the levels of hydrocarbon emissions exiting a vehicles tail pipe. A bad catalytic converter can lose its emissions-lowering capabilities and cause an increase in exhaust hydrocarbon emissions, a condition that is normally picked up when a vehicle is undergoing a routine smog inspection.

Reduced Fuel Economy

Any obstruction and/or abnormality in a vehicles exhaust system has the potential to reduce vehicle gas mileage by creating exhaust back pressure within a vehicles engine. A bad catalytic converter can cause a reduction in vehicle fuel economy if it restricts the flow of engine exhaust to the point of causing a marked increase in engine exhaust back pressure.

Plugging of the catalytic converter is a frequent problem experienced by many vehicle owners. Many individuals choose to remove the converter completely or hollow the inside of the honeycomb out.

Purpose of the Converter

The catalytic converter serves to reduce harmful emissions that automobiles release into the air. The primary pollutant that is minimized is carbon monoxide, which is reduced to incredibly low levels to have a smaller impact on the environment. Many states have emissions inspections that are conducted on a yearly basis to ensure the catalytic converter is working correctly.

Impact of Removal

When a catalytic converter is damaged or removed, a few different clues signify it. The fuel economy of a vehicle will drop without a converter, along with a lack of power. If pressure is excessive due to the converter being plugged, you may experience frequent stalling or rough idling.

Detrimental Effects

Other impacts of removing the converter include risking damage to the other components, primarily the oxygen sensor, which works in conjunction with the catalytic converter. This may also cause the check engine light to come on, which will cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test.

The catalytic converters on the Chevy S10 has undergone many changes throughout the years. The older style S10s had the converter installed downstream in the exhaust system and were clamp-connected to the exhaust pipes. The newer S10s have the converters integrated with the front Y-exhaust pipe. In any case, if you have to replace one, the direct-fit option is going to be a much wiser choice as it will save you time and money than trying to cut and weld in the cheaper universal converter choices.

Instructions

1

Place the tools and converter in the tool tray and lift the S10 on a vehicle lift safely and securely. Put on the safety glasses inspect the catalytic converter. The inspection of the converter should have already been performed before obtaining the new replacement on the tool cart, but it would be recommended to ensure you have the right replacement part before cutting the old one down.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor port(s) in the catalytic converter. If its an older S10, there will be one port located on the inlet pipe of the converter. If its a newer S10, there will be three ports located on each side of the Y-pipe inlets and one more on the rear converter of the pipe. Spray lubricant on the threads of the sensors and allow it to soak in. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire(s) using the screwdriver to help you press in on the clip lock on the plugs. Remove the oxygen sensor(s) using the oxygen sensor socket and the ratchet. Mark the sensors to identify their position if you have the three sensor portholes.

3

Put on the cutting glasses and gloves and light the torch. Start at the front of the converter. If its a three-point flange, cut out the nut and bolts. If its the Y-pipe converter, heat up the nuts on the studs (one at a time) with the torch and have your pneumatic gun, long extension, swivel and socket ready to extract the nut once properly heated. This will avoid snapping a manifold stud. Remove all three nuts per side (six in all) in this fashion.

4

Cut the three bolts and nuts out of the rear flange (two bolts on the Y-pipe). Be aware that certain year S10s may have welded studs in the rear flange. You can try to reuse these or you could cut them out and replace them with nuts and bolts. Theyll be stubborn to cut out, but unless theyre really clean, it would make an easier fix to replace them. Shut off the torch and switch back to the safety glasses after the converter connections are disconnected.

5

Carefully remove the converter. Disengage any rubber hangers from the welded hangers on the converter. Be careful not to burn yourself as the shell of the converter will be hot and can still burn through safety gloves.

6

Install the new converter and attach it to the front of the S10 first with the replacement gaskets. It will take some wrangling if its the Y-pipe converter to fit it up. Place the welded hanger in the converter through the rubber hanger to help hold it in place. Place the nuts on the studs to hold the converter. For the three-bolt flange type converter, simply insert the gasket in between the flanges and place the bolts and flat washers on one side of the flange and the lock washers and nuts on the other side.

7

Connect the rear converter flange with hardware and the gasket in the same manner -- bolts and flat washers on one side of the flange and lock washers and nuts on the other side. Tighten the flange connections using the gun, with swivel, socket, and any necessary length extension on the nut while holding the bolt head with a box end wrench. Tighten each nut and bolt slightly and alternate between each one to draw them in evenly and then tighten them snug at the end.

8

Place a light amount of anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the oxygen sensor(s) and thread them into the portholes by hand. Tighten the sensor(s) snugly with the ratchet and oxygen sensor socket, but be careful not to overtighten and strip the threads of the sensor(s). Plug the sensor(s) wire back into the plug connection.

9

Remove the tool tray and debris from under the S10, lower the truck on the lift and start it up before swinging the lift arms free. Make sure there are no exhaust leaks coming from any of the flange connections or oxygen sensor port(s).

A clogged or stopped-up converter will affect the performance of the vehicles engine. Partially clogged will reduce power because the exhaust system is not being allowed to breathe properly. A completely clogged converter will prevent the engine from running. It may start up, but once the back pressure of the exhaust builds up between the manifold and throttle, it will choke itself out. Any quick fix to allow the vehicle to run should be considered a temporary solution to a bigger problem.

Temporary Solutions

The quickest temporary solution is to remove the front oxygen sensor. This will create an exhaust leak before the back pressure builds up against the clogged converter. An exhaust leak is loud and everyone is going to know that you have a problem with your car the second you start it. It will be louder upon acceleration. Windows in your vehicle should be rolled down to prevent carbon monoxide and other harmful pollutants from contaminating the air inside the passenger cab. This fix should only be done to get the car from point A to point B -- point B being the repair station to have the catalytic converter replaced.

To prevent an exhaust leak from occurring, another alternative is to remove the converter, hollow it out if capable of doing so, and then replacing it. Another would be to apply a piece of flex or straight pipe in the place of the catalytic converter. This is a highly illegal practice that most every reputable repair facility will refuse to perform because of liability. And again, this type of quick repair should be considered only temporary to get the vehicle from where it is to the repair station.

The Computer and Emissions

Todays vehicles are designed to run with catalytic converters and bypassing them, even temporarily, will affect the performance of the engine and can cause further damage to other components. Oxygen sensors are set in place upstream and downstream in the exhaust system to monitor fuel-to-air ratio from the throttle and to also monitor the catalyst efficiency. When the oxygen sensor cannot perform its intended purpose, it will trigger the check engine light to illuminate. In addition, the intense heat from a clogged converter can easily damage the upstream sensor. When the upstream sensor cannot communicate its data to the engine control module, the computer is unable to make the necessary adjustments for the perfect fuel-to-air ratio to decrease emissions. Unburned fuel can bypass the throttle in a rich (too much gas) fuel case or too much air can cause a lean fuel case, where the engine may chug, buck and even stall.

A temporary or quick fix to a clogged converter should be rectified as early as possible to prevent damage to other components and to abide by government laws that mandate catalytic converters on vehicles that came with them originally.

Catalytic converters do not necessarily clog due to age or failure on their own. A poor-performing engine, leaded fuel or an oxygen sensor failure can contribute to the decline and demise of the catalytic converter. Replacing the converter may help the exhaust breathe for the time being, but if the vehicle is not properly diagnosed, the new converters longevity will be compromised.

Direct-Fit Versus Universal

There are two common types of replacement converters and both have their benefits and drawbacks. Direct-fit converters are designed to fit the vehicle as the original converter did. This application will come with the necessary flanges, pipe extensions and any other features to allow you to remove the old converter and replace it with one in the same manner. Direct-fit are more costly, but will save you installation time or save you money in labor because a professional doesnt have to install it.

Universal converters are much cheaper, but theyre often nothing more than just the converter itself. In other words, it will not come with flanges, pipe extensions or any necessary features to remove the old converter and install the universal one in its place. Universal simply save you money on the price of the converter, but you will undoubtedly have to invest more time or more money to make the converter fit to your exhaust system. In some cases, welding or having pipe extensions made by muffler shops will be required. Overall, consider the benefit of the direct-fit converter to save yourself the time and hassle of trying to install the universal.

In modern cars, the computer uses data from various sensors to determine how much fuel and spark to give the engine, ensuring that it runs correctly. On the exhaust side, these are oxygen (O2) sensors, which detect how much oxygen is in the exhaust, and tell the computer how lean or rich the engine is running. If one of the O2 sensors goes out, the cars engine wont run correctly.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensors on the exhaust--2- or 3-inch long tubes that extend perpendicular to the exhaust tubing with wiring running out of them. Unclip the wiring to the sensor you want to remove using your hands.

3

Place the oxygen sensor socket on the 3/8-inch ratchet and unbolt the sensor from the exhaust. Make sure the wiring is leading out of the slot in the socket so that you dont damage the pigtail on the way out.