For U Solution

Most trunk lids differ in design from model or year. Some have taillight and license plate wiring in them and some do not. This wiring is held in place by plugs that are made to detach. All models of trunks share similar characteristics for removing and replacing the lid. They have hydraulic struts and a four-bolt system. By unhooking the struts, removing the hinge bolts and wiring plugs, any trunk lid can be lifted off in a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk as far as it will go. Using the 10mm wrench if it is metric or the 1/2 inch wrench if it is standard, remove one bolt from each of the black hydraulic cylinders on top where the cylinders are bolted to the trunk lid.

2

Remove the bolts from the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders where the cylinders are bolted to the car frame using the same wrench you used on the upper bolt.

3

Nudge the cylinders with the palm of your hand to pop them free from the upper and lower mounting retainers.

4

Trace any wires that are running up from the car body to the trunk lid. Locate where the wires are plugged in and gently pull the wire plugs out. There may be a single plug harness that unplugs all the wires at once; unplug that if possible. Let the wires dangle inside the trunk.

5

Remove two bolts with the 1/2 inch or 10mm deep socket and ratchet on each side of the trunk lid hinge while an assistant holds one side of the trunk. Hold onto the trunk lid with one hand while removing the last bolt.

6

Carefully lift the trunk lid away from the car.

You can remove the airbags from your 1993 Mercedes 300E yourself and save time and money. Airbags are considered a vital safety feature, but some people remove them to prevent accidental deployment. Removing the airbags from your Mercedes is fairly easy, but you must be careful to avoid injury. Stay away from the front of the airbag as you remove it.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood and remove the battery cables from the battery. Use a socket wrench set to loosen the bolts on the cable clamps. Wait at least a half hour for the residual charge of the battery to drain out.

2

Check the owners manual for the location of the airbag fuses. Open the fuse panel cover on the dashboard near the steering column. Remove the fuse puller inside and use it to remove the airbag fuses.

3

Find two screws on the back of the steering column that hold the airbag in place. Remove the screws with a screwdriver, keeping your face and body away from airbag.

4

Slide the airbag very carefully from the center of the steering wheel and cut the wires using wire cutters. Set the airbag in a safe location.

5

Open the glove box and unhook the straps. Unscrew the glove box and remove it from the dashboard. Unbolt the airbag with the socket wrench and unhook the cable on the back of the airbag. Take the airbag out of the compartment, protecting your face and body.

6

Reinstall the glove box, put the screws back in place, and reattach the straps. Close the glove box door.

7

Reinstall the airbag fuses in the fuse panel and close the fuse panel cover. Connect the battery cables and tighten the retaining nuts.

Electrical problems in 2007, 2008 and 2009 Chevrolet trucks could result in the meltdown of "heater and washer fluid system" parts and the possibility of fire. The automobile manufacturer has issued recalls with a focus on those potential electrical malfunctions.

History

Chevrolet trucks were subject to two recalls for electrical system malfunctions---one on Aug. 27, 2008, and another on June 4, 2010. Chevrolet trucks from 2007, 2008 and 2009 for which electrical system recalls were issued are the Avalanche, Suburban, Silverado, Traverse and Tahoe.

Recalls

The August 2008 recall focused on a short circuit in the HWFS circuit board in the 2007 and 2008 Suburban, Avalanche, Tahoe and Silverado. The June 2010 recall targeted overheating of the thermal protective chamber around the HWFS fluid chamber in the 2007, 2008 and 2009 Avalanche, Suburban, Silverado, Traverse and Tahoe.

Remedies

To prevent short-circuiting, a fuse was added to the circuit control board of vehicles affected by the 2008 recall. Chevrolet agreed to disable and remove the heater and washer fluid system from vehicles affected by the 2010 recall.

Replacing a muffler can be a rewarding job that is quickly completed with a few tools---or it can be the task from Hades. A simple look at the muffler will help you determine which way the job will likely go and help make the decision about doing it yourself easier. If its held on with bolted flanges, it should go well. Replacing a muffler held on with U clamps might require special tools and be a job better left to experts.

Taking Off a Flanged Muffler

A muffler held to the pipe with bolted flanges will have one of two bolt arrangements securing the flanges together. Look closely at the flange. What looks like a bolt may actually be a stud and will require much more care to remove. Examine both ends of the bolt to see if it or the nut is welded to one flange. If it is, care must be taken to get the nut off without damaging the stud. Use a penetrating oil or heat to help break up rust on the threads before attempting to remove the bolt or nut.

Some bolts are through bolts and can turn freely in the flange holes once loosened slightly. If you are certain your muffler flange uses these bolts, you may find it is easier to cut them in half and replace them with a new bolt. Use a reciprocating saw or hand hacksaw to cut them.

Once the flange is unbolted spray the rubber hangers with a light oil, such as WD40 and remove them from the brackets on the muffler. This is easily done with a pair of arc joint pliers.

Removing a Clamped-On Muffler

Be aware that replacing this muffler will be difficult. You must cut the U clamps off and then separate both ends of the muffler from the pipes. Generally, this will require careful work with a hammer and chisel. An air hammer with a chisel designed to split the pipes is much faster if you have access to this tool, and a cutting torch is much faster, but this is not the place to learn to use one.

Once the muffler nipple is split, you can work the pipe out of it. It isnt easy to do because of rust and the deformation of the pipe caused by the clamp. Avoid hammering on the pipes, try to remove them with twisting and pulling. It may be necessary to split the muffler nipple in two or three places before the pipe will separate from it.

Installing the New Muffler

Use a new gasket when installing a flanged muffler. Place the bolts through the flange and use them to hold the gasket while you slide the muffler in place. Tighten the bolts securely but dont over tighten. Finish up by lubing the rubber hangers and pushing them on to the muffler brackets.

If your muffler is secured to the exhaust pipes with U clamps, it will be necessary to install the muffler on to the pipe a distance equal to the length of the nipple on the muffler. Slide the muffler on while twisting and pushing it in place. If it does not readily slide on to the pipe, you may need to rent a pipe expander and enlarge the nipple slightly. Once the pipes are installed in the muffler ends, install the proper-sized U clamp and tighten securely.

Check your work

The last step in replacing your own muffler is to start the engine and check for leaks. If any are found simply tighten the clamps or bolts tighter. This should eliminate the leaks.

Fords 2001 Super Duty truck with a manual transmission is equipped with a hydraulic clutch system that is similar in operation to the hydraulic brake system. Pressure on the foot-operated clutch pedal actuates the clutch master cylinder and pressurizes the fluid within the system. A hydraulic hose connects the slave cylinder on the transmission to the master cylinder. When pressurized, the slave cylinder disengages the clutch plates. Over time, the inner seals in the slave cylinder can become worn and cease to function properly. Replace the slave cylinder using basic hand tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the vehicle on level ground. Set the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels.

2

Position the jack under the front lifting points on the vehicle. The two-wheel drive truck has a lifting lug located on the front side of the wheel support arm. Jack the four-wheel truck on the front axle close to the wheel. Be sure to position the jack in the notch near the front differential when lifting the driver side of four-wheel drive trucks. Support the vehicle on jack stands.

3

Locate the slave cylinder on the front driver side of the transmission. Wipe dirt from the slave cylinder, hydraulic hose and surrounding areas with a clean rag to prevent contamination of the components. Place a catch pan under the clutch slave cylinder.

4

Push in on the slave cylinder and rotate it counterclockwise to remove it from the transmission. Pull the hydraulic hose clip closest to the slave cylinder from the truck body.

5

Drive out the roll pin on the slave cylinder hydraulic hose coupling, using a hammer and a 3/32 inch punch. Discard the roll pin.

6

Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the slave cylinder. Remove the O-ring seal from the end of the hydraulic tube and discard.

Installation

7

Hold the new clutch slave cylinder over the catch pan. Position the slave cylinder so that the hydraulic connection port is higher than the pushrod. Fill the slave cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid.

8

Install the new O-ring seal on the end of the hydraulic line and coat it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Insert the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder hydraulic port. Install a new roll pin using a hammer to secure the hydraulic line in the slave cylinder.

9

Locate the clutch master cylinder reservoir next to the brake master cylinder on the drivers side of the engine compartment firewall.

10

Wipe the clutch master cylinder cap with a clean rag to remove any grit or debris. Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid up to the Full line. Position the clutch hydraulic hose so that there are no high spots that may trap air bubbles during the bleeding process. Reroute the hose as necessary.

11

Hold the slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod down and the hydraulic line lined up with the hydraulic line as straight as possible to the clutch master cylinder.

12

Slowly push the pushrod into the slave cylinder until it bottoms out and then hold it for five to ten seconds. Release the pushrod slowly and allow the spring within the slave cylinder to extend the pushrod. Wait five to 10 seconds to allow the air bubbles to rise. Repeat this process until all of the air is bled from the system and the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.

13

Insert the slave cylinder into the transmission housing. Push the slave cylinder in and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into position. Push the hydraulic line clip into position on the truck body.

14

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.

15

Slowly depress and release the clutch pedal 25 times. Ensure that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is free of air bubbles.

16

Check and top off the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. Install the master cylinder cap.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower the truck to the ground.

Auto body repair and shaping involves the repair of both minor and major damage to the body of your car including dents, scratches and rusted areas. This type of work requires a certain amount of skill and certain tools. An auto body repair mechanic is often used for this type of work, but if the damage is just a small dent or scratch, justifying the expense of a mechanic can be a tall order. Understanding the basics of auto body repair can help you decide whether a mechanic is necessary.

Instructions

1

Use a dent plunger to pull out dents using suction power. You can purchase dent plungers from most auto shops. For a relatively small dent, wet the dent with a mixture of water and carwash soap. Place the plunger over the dent and pull out the dent. Remove the plunger by sliding it off using the soapy water. Repeat if necessary.

2

Purchase a dent-pulling kit from your local auto store and use it to pull out larger dents. Drill several small holes in the center of the dent and screw the head of the dent puller into the holes, one at a time. Once inside the hole, claws on the head of the dent puller open and grip the back of the dent. Use a little force to pull out the dent as far as the rest of the body of the car.

Repeat the process with the rest of the holes until the dent is fully pulled out. If youve pulled the dent too far out from the body of the car, use a body hammer to reshape it.

When you are finished, the holes will need to be filled, and finished with body paint.

3

Access the back side of the damaged body of the car and use a body hammer to gently hammer the sheet metal and reshape the body. Once you have reshaped the sheet metal as much as possible using this method, turn the sheet metal over and place a metal hammer dolly underneath on the back side of the sheet metal. Use the body hammer to gently shape the outside of the body. Keep going until you are satisfied with the shape. Body hammers are usually made of rubber to minimize paint damage.

4

Fill any remaining dents and drilled holes with auto body filler. Use a metal file or sandpaper to smooth the metal. Use a putty knife to add the filler, and carefully smooth it over until you get the desired shape. For greatest accuracy, use a paper template of the original shape of the body part.

5

Follow the manufacturers instructions regarding drying time for the filler. Sand the repaired body parts with a gritty sandpaper by hand. Work your way down to fine sandpaper. Finish off the sanding with fine grit sandpaper. You will know when the process is complete when youve achieved a very smooth surface with no differentiation from the rest of the auto body.

6

Prime the surface of the auto body with a metal primer. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturers instructions. Using spray paint, apply auto body paint evenly and carefully across the auto body. Do not apply too much paint to any one section, or the paint might peel. Allow the paint to dry, and buff the paint. Apply at three to five coats and buff the paint with a buffer in between, after allowing adequate drying time.

The V6 4.3-liter engine of the 2002 Chevrolet Blazer has four oxygen sensors that monitor the fuel-to-air ratio and the catalyst efficiency. Locating the correct oxygen sensor or sensors to replace may be more challenging than actually replacing them. Keep in mind that the bank one sensor is on the same side as the number one cylinder, and the two sensors one (1) are on the front pipe just below the manifold. The two rear sensors are on the passenger side of the SUV; one placed in front of the catalytic converter and one directly behind it. These are referred to as sensors two (2).

Instructions

1

Drive the 2002 Chevrolet Blazer up onto two car ramps, and then apply the parking brake.

2

Place a wheel block behind one of the rear tires.

3

Put the safety glasses on, and crawl underneath the Blazer with the remaining items.

4

Locate the oxygen sensor(s) you intend to replace. The two front ones are located in the front Y-pipe of the exhaust system towards the front of the engine. There is one per side of the Y-pipe. The other two are located before and after the catalytic converter (which is just behind the Y-pipe towards the center of the vehicle on the passenger side).

5

Spray the threads of the oxygen sensor with penetrating lubricant, and allow it to soak in for a few minutes.

6

Follow the wire harness from the oxygen sensor to the plug connection. Use a small forked pry tool to unseat the retaining tab of the plug connection from the frame or undercarriage of the SUV. Disconnect the wire harness plug.

7

Place the plug of the sensor through the box-end side of the 22-mm or 7/8-inch wrench, and then place the wrench onto the hex-headed portion of the sensor.

8

Turn the sensor counterclockwise using the wrench. A quick jerking motion of the wrench should loosen the sensor effectively, but if necessary, start the engine for a couple of minutes to warm up the exhaust system and expand the binding metals of the pipe and sensor. Be careful that it will not heat up the front Y-pipe sensors because they can become hot enough to burn you.

9

Thread the new replacement sensor into the exhaust port by hand as far as it will allow. Tighten the sensor to 30-foot pounds with a torquing hand wrench. Do not over-tighten the sensor, or you will damage the threads.

10

Reconnect the wire harness of the replacement sensor to the plug connection, and then push the retaining tab back into its respective hole in the frame or undercarriage.