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Almost all cars have the battery circuit in common. The battery drain on a 1969 Camaro will be related to the same causes as drain in a 2005 Explorer. In most circumstances, the drain is caused by short or open circuits, but other drains may be due to alternator failure, battery failure or improper battery maintenance.

Lights

If the light switch is accidentally left in an on position it could cause the battery to die rapidly. Despite their small size, dome lights can consume a lot of power quickly and are easy to leave accidentally activated. The door may be ajar just enough to allow the spring-loaded switch to stay in the on position. Another problem with lights, especially in older vehicles, is a tendency of the brake pedal to sag a little against the retaining spring.

Worn Ignition Switch

A worn ignition switch may allow the key to be removed while the ignition is still in the on position. It may appear that the ignition is properly off at a glance, but the slot is still slightly turned, allowing electricity to flow throughout the cars systems. Symptoms might include the key coming out of the ignition while the car is still running or blower fans still operating after the key is removed. Where the car radio is concerned, some are installed so that they operate independently of the ignition and may pose a battery drain risk for that reason alone if left on when the car is unattended.

Electrical Shorts

The wiring harness may have weathered a bit on a 1969 Camaro, allowing wires to be rubbed against sharp surfaces. Over time this can cause the insulation to be stripped off the wire and short, or it could cause binding that eventually stretches the wiring to a breaking point. Other electrical shorts may be related to springs that have worn out in switches such as electric windows. The severity of the drain will depend on the type and conditions of the short, but even a minor short will cause battery drain over time.

Shorted Alternator Diode

An alternator is a charging system for your battery. To prevent the electricity from flowing back to the alternator when the engine is off, a special blocking diode is installed. If this part fails, power flows back from the battery to the alternator and may even reach other systems that are directly connected in the circuit.

Battery Problems

Car batteries get old and stop functioning as well. If a cell goes bad in the battery and cannot hold a charge, it could create a constant internal drain on the battery as current is pushed through the dead zone. Another common problem is when a battery is not properly maintained and corrosion builds up on the terminals. This prevents the alternator from supplying a charge current, and allows the battery to drain as electrical systems are used.

The proper nomenclature for a starter drive is a Bendix. The starter motor drive shaft has a spiral groove on which the Bendix rides. The Bendix is normally posed next to the motor when not in operation. When the motor is actuated, the spinning of the motors shaft causes the Bendix, complete with gear, to move away from the motor where it engages the flexplate gear. When the motor stops turning, spring pressure retracts the Bendix to its stationary position.

Instructions

1

Try to start the engine. If you hear a loud whirring noise, the starter motor has engaged and there is definitely something wrong with the starter or flexplate gear. If you hear no sound, the starter has not actuated.

2

Open the hood and test the battery voltage with the voltmeter. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the positive terminal on the battery and the black lead to the negative terminal. There should be 12.5 volts or better. If not, charge the battery and test again. If it does not take a charge replace it. If it does take a charge, watch the voltmeter as a helper turns the key to start. If the voltage remains constant, a wire or solenoid problem exists. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts replace the battery. Check the alternator output if the battery took a charge.

3

Check the power to the starter solenoid B+ terminal. This is the wire cable directly from the battery to the solenoid. Place the black voltmeter lead on a good ground and probe the solenoid terminal with the red wire. Battery voltage should be present if the wire and battery terminals are good.

4

Check the S-terminal on the solenoid. This is the small terminal that receives power from the ignition switch that actuates the starter. Remove the S-terminal small wire and probe it while a helper turns the key to the start position. It should have power. If it doesnt, the ignition switch is bad. If there is power at both terminals and the starter just clicks or makes no noise at all, replace the starter. If the starter runs but does not turn the engine proceed to the next step.

5

Remove the negative cable on the battery using a wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the frame. Lower the vehicle so that it rests on the jack stands.

6

Remove the starter bolts with a socket and pull the starter out. Disconnect the large primary power wire on the B+ terminal and the small wire on the S-terminal using a wrench. Lay the starter on the ground in front of the vehicle.

7

Test the starter using the jumper cables. Connect the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery and the other end of this cable to the body of the starter. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery. Take the red lead in hand and momentarily touch the large stud just below the large B+ terminal. Watch the starter Bendix. It should immediately snap out to the end of the starter motor shaft as the motor is spinning. As soon as the motor stops the Bendix should retract. If not, replace the starter. If it does operate perfectly, the problem is the flexplate gear. The ring gear that surrounds the flexplate is what the Bendix engages to turn the engine. This requires removing the transmission and torque converter in order to replace.

The hazard switch for your Volkswagen Jetta MK4 is an important safety item, designed to provide a visual alert or emergency warning for passing motorists. Properly installing a new hazard switch will restore functionality as well as reduce chances of unwanted damage to the interior components.

Instructions

1

Turn off the vehicle and remove the ignition key.

2

Examine the top portion of the middle dash console and locate the two center vents, above the rectangular-shaped hazard switch.

3

Insert the flathead screwdriver between the center-most left or right sides of one of the vent diffusers. Position the screwdriver blade in front of the pivoting nub. Gently pry the vent diffuser from the dashboard to unhinge the pivoting nub.

4

Remove the screwdriver and pull the vent diffuser completely out of the dash panel. Remove the remaining center-mounted vent diffuser from the vent panel, using the same process outlined in the previous step.

5

Remove the two Torx screws, located inside the vent holes, securing the center vent panel to the dashboard, using an appropriate Torx bit and a screwdriver attachment.

6

Pull the bottom edge of the vent panel to aid in the removal process. After detaching the vent panel from the dash, disconnect the wiring harness connected to the rear of the hazard switch.

7

Push on the rear of the hazard switch to pop the unit out through the front side of the vent panel.

8

Insert the new hazard switch into the vent panel, taking note of the proper orientation of the old switch button.

9

Connect the harness to the rear of the hazard switch.

10

Fit the vent panel to the dashboard and replace the screws. Replace the vent diffusers to complete the installation process; use the flathead screwdriver to help align the pivoting nubs with the corresponding vent panel retaining holes.

A well-maintained interior is important to all car enthusiasts. Old cars are loved, but no one wants them to look old. A cracked, faded dash is an eyesore in many classic cars. Many of the options for restoring these dashes are expensive, such as sending them out to be redone from scratch, or depend on luck (finding an original dash in good condition). Another alternative is to recover the existing dash with matching vinyl.

Instructions

Prepare the Dash

1

Remove the dash from the car and any trim that comes off with the dash.

2

Trim any loose pieces of vinyl or foam with the razor blade.

3

Scrub the dash with the dishwashing detergent and brush.

4

Rinse the dash thoroughly with clean water.

5

Place the dash in the sun to dry. It may take a day or two to completely dry. It must be absolutely dry to prevent mold.

6

Wipe down the dash with a clean rag. Use the razor to remove any newly loose pieces.

7

Fill any cracks in the dash with silicone. Thoroughly coat each crack. It is better to use too much than not enough.

Applying the Vinyl

8

Lay the vinyl good side down. Place the dash face down on the vinyl.

9

Trim the vinyl to fit the dash. Use masking tape to hold it in place.

10

Flip the dash over. Use the marker to trace openings in the dash that will be cut out later.

11

Remove the vinyl covering. Caully cut out any needed openings.

12

Spray the dash with spray adhesive. Stretch the vinyl back over the dash. Use more spray adhesive around the back to firmly attach the new vinyl.

Finishing the Dash

13

Push down firmly on the vinyl as it dries to prevent any bubbles from forming.

14

Wipe the dash down after it dries with a clean rag to remove any adhesive on the front of the dash.

15

Reinstall the dash.

The DRZ 400 is a motocross bike that is as comfortable on the street as it is on the track. Japanese manufacturer Suzuki built the bike with a 400-cubic-centimeter engine. It is no longer in production, haven given way to a newer model with a 450-cc engine displacement. Like most modern motorcycles, the battery is wired using two terminals, one positive and one negative. It is best operated with a maintenance-free 12-volt motorcycle battery that requires no acid pack for activation and no assembly after purchase.

Instructions

1

Remove the screw that secures a cover panel on the rear-left side of the DRZ 400, just in front of the rear wheel. Pull the cover panel off to reveal the battery compartment.

2

Slide a battery into the compartment with the terminals facing up and out.

3

Slip the rectangular nut into the positive terminal, which is indicated by a "+" sign. Hold the positive (red) battery cable on top of the terminal and drop the battery screw through the cable and into the nut. Tighten the screw by turning clockwise with a screwdriver until the screw and cable are secure against the terminal.

4

Repeat Step 4 for the negative (black) battery cable on the DRZ 400.

5

Place the rubber terminal covers over the battery and the battery protector on top of the terminal covers. Press the decorative cover plate over the battery compartment and replace the screw by turning clockwise with a screwdriver until the cover is snug against the frame of the bike.

Headliners can become ripped when moving big objects or over time it will start to sag from the glue breaking down. Replacing the headliner in your Dodge Caravan is easy to do, but time consuming. It can take up to 3 hours to complete this project. So make sure to allow for enough time to do this project.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of the van and unhook the negative battery cable. Lower the hood when the cable is removed.

2

Use a screwdriver to remove the sun visors and coat hangers.

3

Pull the rubber door trim loose on all the doors. You dont have to remove the trim completely you just need to pull it loose so it uncovers the edge of the headliner.

4

Loosen the top portion of the Caravans trim. Depending on the model of the Caravan you will either have screws or metal clips holding the trim in place. If the trim is held on by screws, unscrew one or two screws from the top just enough that the trim can be pulled away from the edge of the headliner. If the van has metal clips holding the trim on, use a flat head screw driver to pry one or two clips away. Pull off just enough so that the edge of the headliner is free.

5

Remove the dome lights. The front dome light is held in place by metal clips. Use a flat head screw drive to pry the clips loose. The rear dome light can be removed by taking the lens off and sliding the light back and forth to remove it. When you have the lights removed unplug the electrical connectors.

6

Remove the back seatbelt bracket. Use a socket wrench with the correct size socket. Loosen the bolt and then loosen the trim panel enough that the edge of the headliner is free.

7

Remove the headliner board from the back of the van. When its removed lay it on a flat surface and using a wire brush remove any of the foam and old glue. Get the headliner board as clean as possible.

8

Lay the new liner on the board and make sure that some of the material is hanging over the front and back of the board.

9

Fold the material back about half way and apply spray adhesive. Replace the material to the wet adhesive and rub it out with the palms of your hands. Smooth out the wrinkles. Do the same thing on the other side.

10

Put the headliner board back into the van when its dry. Replace everything the same way it came out. Only start at the last thing you removed and work backwards from there. Replace the negative battery cable, close the hood.

Dana Holding Corp. manufactures equipment and parts for the agricultural, industrial, automotive and transportation markets. Spicer is a sub-brand of the same company responsible for manufacturing axles for many different types of vehicles, including passenger cars, commercial vehicles and off-highway vehicles.

Passenger Car Axles

Dana Spicers axles for passenger cars consist of a front axle with different assemblies and a ring and pinion. The back axle also has a ring and pinion as well as all the necessary seals, gaskets and bolts. The rear axle features an open limited slip with specialized Dana technology. Dana Spicers axles for passenger cars are designed to be customizable to wide variety of cars.

Commercial Vehicle Axles

Spicer axles for commercial vehicles feature steer and drive axles that are designed to withstand wear. These axles provide protection against spinning out and have triple lip Viton seals that protect them in all temperatures and environments. They come equipped with a drop gear tooth profile that gives them longer life and quieter operation.

Off-Highway Axles

Dana Spicer axles for off-highway vehicles are available in both steer and rigid versions. They have load ratings from 1,200 to 140,000 pounds and can be used for construction, forestry and mining. These axles are designed so they have minimal maintenance costs and can operate in rugged conditions. They are available in various track widths, rations and capacities and can be customized for most vehicles.