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Welding is a skill that some people take years to perfect, and it can be done in a multitude of different ways. One of the most common and inexpensive methods of welding is MIG welding, which will work perfectly for an exhaust system. Welding two exhaust pipes together will seal the joint and make the exhaust system leak-free. This is a complicated process and should be done by someone with experience in welding; otherwise, you risk injury.

Instructions

1

Jack up the car using a jack and put it on four jack stands. Make sure there is enough room for you to move easily around the underside of the car. Crawl underneath the car and locate the section of exhaust tubing you want to weld. Examine the wall thickness of the tubing.

2

Compare the wall thickness of the tubing with the system setup diagram on the inside cover of the welder. Set your welder to the settings listed for that gauge of metal. These settings will vary with each welder.

3

Clamp the exhaust lines together using the exhaust clamp, making sure to butt the two pieces of exhaust tubing together perfectly. Put on the welding helmet and gloves.

4

Set the ground clamp for the welder on the exhaust. Place the end of the welder approximately 1/8 inch away from the surface of the exhaust. Pull the trigger. Work the puddle you see through the helmet into crescent shapes, working your way back and forth until you have a 1 inch long weld. Repeat the process on the other side of the exhaust clamp.

5

Remove the exhaust clamp then weld the remaining perimeter of the exhaust tubing. Remove the vehicle from the jack stands using the jack.

Air ride was first used in 1909, but it was quickly eliminated as the systems had a tendency to leak. Properly functioning air ride systems were a common feature in luxury automobiles in the late 1950s. These systems use several components to change the ride quality and height.

Compressor

The air compressor is typically hidden behind the rear seat or in the trunk. The compressor uses the 12 volt power to run an internal piston and build air pressure. This air is used to adjust the ride height or quality.

Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is an integral part of keeping this system operating properly. This pressure switch measures the pounds per square inch (psi) in the system and turns the compressor on and off as needed.

Air Bags

The air bags are underneath the vehicle and connected to the suspension. The air bags are rubber bags that fill with air provided by the compressor. The bags perform a few functions: ride height adjustment and ride style. The bags raise the vehicle by inflating and lower the vehicle by deflating.

Lines

The air lines in this system transfer air from the compressor to the air bags. These lines are typically rubber with braided steel covers.

Adjustment Switch

Some trucks and SUVs have a switch inside the cabin to adjust the system. The switch is designed to raise and lower the vehicle at the drivers command.

Disabling Switch

Some vehicles, Ford, Lincoln and Mercury primarily, have automatic adjusting shocks that work whether the vehicle is off or on. When you lift these vehicles, for any reason, the system senses the change in pressure and begins inflating the air bag. When this happens, it can cause the system to blow a hole in the air bag. This is why the disabling switch was put on these vehicles. This switch is typically in the trunk.

The fuel filter on a 1985 Buick Century is designed so that gasoline flowing to the engine is free of harmful debris. The fuel pump, located inside the gas tank, has a built-in strainer. This keeps large debris from leaving the tank but smaller debris and sediment can get past the strainer. If not changed, the small debris will eventually clog the fuel filter; this can affect gas mileage and engine performance. Fuel filters should be changed annually or every 30,000 miles.

Instructions

Remove the Fuel Filter

1

Open the hood and locate the fuse panel. Open the fuse panel and locate the fuel pump relay. Pull it out by hand.

2

Start the engine and let it run. The engine will stall once the fuel system has depressurized. Turn off the engine and replace the relay back in to the fuse panel. Close the fuel panel.

3

Crawl under the car behind the driver-side rear wheel well and look for the fuel filter. The fuel filter is canister-shaped with a fuel line entering and exiting the filter; it will be in a mounting bracket on the frame rail. You can also trace the fuel line from the gas tank to find the fuel filter.

4

Place a drain pan under the fuel filter to catch any gas in the fuel lines or the fuel filter.

5

Disconnect the inlet fuel line from the fuel filter by pinching the tab on the quick-disconnect fitting and pull the fuel line off the fuel filter. If the fuel line is held on by a hose clamp, loosen the clamp with a screwdriver. Remove the outlet fuel line the same way.

6

Use a socket wrench to loosen the bolt on the mounting bracket and slide the fuel filter out of the bracket. Discard the fuel filter.

Install the Fuel Filter

7

Slide the new filter in the bracket. Make sure the arrow on the fuel filter is pointing toward the front of the car. The arrow designates the direction of fuel flow. Tighten the bracket bolt with the socket wrench. The fuel filter should be tight in the bracket.

8

Push the inlet fuel line onto the fuel filter until it clicks in place. If held on by hose clamps, push the fuel line over the fitting on the fuel filter. Slide the hose clamp over the hose and fitting and tighten it with a screw driver. Do the same for the outlet fuel line.

9

Start the engine and let it to run for at least 5 minutes.

10

Check the fuel filter and fuel lines to make sure there are no gas leaks.

An automobile driveline connects the engine to the axles, giving them the power to turn and move the vehicle. It connects the engine to these parts via a number of joints and clamps. When these parts are faulty, the car might shudder when you give it gas, or it might clunk loudly when the transmission is downshifted. The noise, as well as leakage at the joints, are signs that you need a repair. Most home mechanics can handle minor repairs, which involve replacing rubber boots and adding grease. But for major repairs, its best to take the vehicle to a licensed automotive mechanic. If you are doing the work yourself you will need access to a hydraulic car lift.

Instructions

1

Drive the car into a workspace with a hydraulic lift. Attach the lifts wheel or frame locks onto the car. Initiate the lift so that the car is suspended. Place the lift safety blocks into position to secure the lift arms in place. This will ensure the the car wont crush you if the hydraulic pressure begins to fail.

2

Locate the CV joint boots at the end of the driveline. Examine them for tears or leakage of grease and oil. If you find tears or leaks, pull the old rubber boot off the linkage because it needs to be replaced. Examine the CV link of the driveline to the axle and the opposite end at the transmission. Use a flashlight if visibility is poor. Look for corrosion or rust if the CV boot was torn, opened or exposed.

3

Regrease the CV joint and insert a new CV boot onto the driveline axle and transmission connections if the joints are in good working condition and the rubber boot was bad. If the boot is still good and shows no signs of tears or leaks, slip it back onto the joint.

4

Lower the car and bring it to a licensed mechanic if you can see clear signs of corrosion to the CV and transmission joints of the driveline. Have the mechanic lift the car with his equipment. Show him what youve observed and where the corrosion is. Have the mechanic replace the driveline and joint couplings as necessary.

One thing to remember when picking a flexplate for a small block Chevy (SBC) is that the 1986 and newer Chevy small block engines require a weighted flexplate to help keep the vibration out of the engine. If you bolt an old style neutral balanced flexplate to an engine when it requires a weighted flexplate, you will feel considerable vibration from the engine. The weighted flexplate has 14 1/2-inch diameter and 168 teeth, and requires an offset bolt pattern starter. The smaller flexplate has a 12 3/4-inch diameter and uses a starter with the two bolts adjacent to each other.

Instructions

1

Determine the flexplate needed. Count the teeth on the flexplate to be replaced. If it has 168 teeth it is the larger one. The other choice is a 153-tooth plate. If you dont have a flywheel on the engine and the engine is 1986 or newer, it needs the larger-weighted flexplate.

2

Select the flexplate manufacturer. If the vehicle is expected to last a long time, then use a high quality GM replacement flexplate. The GM original equipment flexplate is more expensive. If the vehicle has a low life expectancy, then the purchase of a used or aftermarket flexplate should suffice.

3

Inspect and clean any used flexplate with spray brake cleaner before purchasing it. Check for hair line cracks in and around the crank bolt holes and be sure the teeth are clean and not worn.

4

Match up the flexplate with the proper starter. The 168-tooth flexplate uses a starter that has bolt holes in the mount that are offset or staggered. The smaller plate uses a starter with mount holes that are adjacent to each other

Examine battery life and quality when purchasing a new car battery. The make, model and year of a car are also considerations in purchasing the appropriate battery. Understanding the various specifications of a battery allow the purchaser to make an informed decision. An improper battery creates more difficulty in starting your car under adverse weather conditions.

CCA or Cold Cranking Amps

The batterys cold cranking amps (CCA) rating is one of the most important specifications of a car battery. The CCA is defined as the discharge loads, which are measured in amps, that a battery with a full charge delivers for 30 seconds at 0 degrees Fahrenheit and still maintains the voltage at or above 7.2 volts. The CCA rating needs to meet or exceed -- based on the climate of your area -- the cars original equipment manufacturer (OEM) cranking requirements. Colder climates especially require higher CCA ratings because of the increased power needed to crank a sluggish engine with a cold battery.

RC or Reserve Capacity

Another specification of a car battery is the reserve capacity (RC), according to the Auto Guide website. The number of minutes a battery at full charge can be discharged at 25 amps at 80 degrees Fahrenheit until the voltage drops below 10.5 volts is the definition of the RC. By connecting either two 6 volt batteries in a series or two 12 volt batteries in parallel, the RC is boosted if necessary. More RC is better whether the climate is hot or cold.

Series Number

The series number of a battery is an alphanumeric designation that matches up the correct shape and size for the model of car, according to the Cars Direct website. Series numbers appear like 24, 78R or 22F, and so on. The series number on car batterys specifications is an indication of the proper battery for the year, make and model of the vehicle.

Head removal for a 1988 Evolution-powered Sportster is the same whether the motorcycle has an 883 cubic centimeters or 1200 cubic centimeters engine. It can be accomplished by a skilled mechanic without removing the engine from the frame or removing the gas tank. It is a chore that is easier to describe than to do, but the tear down should not take longer than 90 minutes. An entire top end job including the removal of both cylinder heads and reassembly is considerably more complicated and takes significantly longer.

Instructions

1

Close the petcock. Run the motorcycle in neutral until the bike stops. Disconnect the enrichener knob and cable from the clip under the fuel tank.

2

Remove the air cleaner cover after loosening the two the bolts on the front of the cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Disconnect the breather tubes from the top of the air cleaner.

3

Remove the air cleaner, then the air cleaner backing plate with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

4

Loosen the fuel line from the carburetor with a flathead screwdriver and remove the fuel line by hand. Remove the idle and throttle cables from the throttle cam on the top front of the carburetor.

5

Remove the carburetor and the enrichener assembly from the engine by pulling the carburetor from the intake manifold.

6

Disconnect both header pipes from the exhaust manifold on the right side of the motorcycle with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the copper crush gaskets from the exhaust manifold.

7

Loosen both oxygen sensors from the header pipes with an open end wrench. Disconnect the mufflers from the muffler support bracket with an open end wrench.

8

Pull the entire exhaust system from the motorcycle.

9

Disconnect the spark plug wire from the cylinder head you intend to remove. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench.

10

Loosen the 6 bolts that hold the rocker cover to the cylinder head one half turn at a time in a crossing pattern with an Allen wrench. Remove the rocker box cover.

11

Remove the metal D-ring. Remove the rocker box cover gasket.

12

Unbolt the breather assembly from the rocker arm support plate with a hex socket and a socket wrench.

13

Cut both pushrods under the head you intend to remove with bolt cutters. Remove the pieces.

14

Gradually loosen all four cylinder head bolts in the exact sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle one quarter turn at a time with a hex socket and socket wrench. Remove the head after all four head bolts are completely loose.

You can reset the airbag light on your 1995 Nissan Sentra without the aid of any special tools. The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) light will illuminate on the instrument panel when there is a malfunction with the airbag assembly. When this light turns on, have the vehicle towed to a mechanic rather than risk driving it. Theres always the chance the airbag will accidentally deploy while you are driving it. When the problem has been repaired, shut off the SRS light yourself.

Instructions

1

Look for and open the fuse panel cover. You can find it underneath the steering column. Pull down on it from the top using your fingers.

2

Find the yellow plug. This is the electrical connector for the airbag system. Pull this plug out of the panel.

3

Wait 10 minutes, then secure the yellow plug back in place. Put the fuse panel cover back on.

4

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Look at the instrument panel to verify that the SRS light has turned off.

The airbag warning light in a Ford Mondeo may illuminate when the airbag is malfunctioning. After you have had the airbag assembly looked at by a mechanic and fixed, you need to reset the airbag or SRS warning light on your Mondeo. You need to purchas a diagnostic reset tool from your dealership or any auto parts store to do this job.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel which can be found underneath the steering column on the dashboard. Pull down on it from the top with your fingers.

2

Plug the connector end of the diagnostic reset tool into the pinned receiver port on the fuse panel.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Wait for the diagnostic reset tool to stop blinking. This means the SRS light has been reset.

4

Unplug the diagnostic reset tool and turn off the vehicle.

5

Turn the engine on and verify that the SRS light has shut off of the instrument panel.

If your vehicle gets old enough, chances are your windshield will get chipped or cracked. Replacing an entire windshield can be costly and is not environmentally friendly. In many cases windshields dont need to be replaced, particularly if the damage is minor. Most small chips and cracks can be easily repaired. You can do the job yourself in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Prepare the windshield by thoroughly cleaning the cracked area. Before you begin the repair process, make sure the windshield is clean, free of debris, and completely dry.

2

Take a razor blade and scrape off any excess glass particles that might be trapped in the crack itself, as well as any dried sap, bug carcasses, or other debris.

3

Clean the windshield thoroughly with soap and water, and let dry. Once completely dry, apply the glass cleaner solution.Solutions come in a variety of types, including chemical-based and eco-friendly.

4

Follow the directions on the auto glass repair kit, making sure you follow the exact steps. The synthetic glass resin used in these kits can be volatile if not applied correctly.

5

Apply the syringe of liquid glass compound to the inside of the crack, snapping and pulling the syringe across the length of the crack slowly. Use your clock or watch to precisely time these motions so the resin will fill in the crack without allowing any trapped air bubbles.

6

Fill in the entire crack from end to end with the resin, then let it sit under direct sunlight or ultraviolet lamp. The UV rays will chemically alter the resin from a liquid to a solid state.

7

Let the resin set for several hours to allow the curing process to finish. Once finished, use your razor blade to scrape any excess resin from the windshield.

The crankshaft position sensor is an electronic component designed to fine-tune the timing of a vehicles engine. The sensor works with the vehicles on-board computer to ensure the vehicle runs at optimal performance.

Purpose

The crankshaft position sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft to control the ignition system timing. The component aids in variable valve timing by monitoring the movement between the vehicles pistons, valves and the engine, noting the engines revolutions per minute.

Function

Made from magnets and an inductive coil, the crank position sensor is positioned next to the crankshaft. The crankshaft has several pins spaced an equal distance apart which is read and calculated by the magnets within the sensor as the crankshaft spins.

Location

These sensors are located in the lower front of the engine block either directly next to the crankshaft, within the main crank pulley or the flywheel. The crankshaft position sensor can be identified as a long, thin, black cord.

When it is important that a screw or a bolt is very tight, or if you need to loosen rusty or too-tight ones, an impact tool does the job. It converts the downward impact of its motor into a turning motion, which loosens almost any tight nuts, bolts or screws. With the fine craftsmanship of impact tools made in Germany you cant go wrong. Several well-known German companies produce impact tools for the professional or the hobbyist.

Elora Werkzeugfabrik

Elora Wekzeugfabrik is known for the manufacture of cutting-edge hand tools, and their impact tools are in demand among many professionals. Elora focuses on impact screwdrivers and screwdriver sets, hex bits and adapters. Elora impact screwdrivers are for left- and right-hand use, and feature a non-slip grip. Elora impact screwdriver sets feature a driver, several different-sized bits, and a hex adapter. Hex adapters, different bit inserts and Phillips bits can also be purchased separately.

Gedore Tools

The Gedore company has been manufacturing quality tools for over 90 years. The company claims that its tools are known for their safety features, precise manufacture, excellent ergonomics and long life. Gedore offers several impact drivers and impact screwdriver sets. Their impact extensions come in different sizes and can be used on all popular impact nut drivers. They also have impact sockets for use with air-operated and electric nut drivers, square drives which can be used to screw in and unscrew nuts from 1/4-inch to 2 1/2-inch diameters, and impact reducers in different sizes. Car impact socket sets are also available.

Stahlwille

Founded under the name of Edualrd Wille GmbH & Co.KG, Stahlwille manufactures high-grade tightening tools of all kinds. They specialize in machine-powered impact tightening tools, such as wrenches, socket tools, drives and connectors. They offer long impact sockets and impact hex sockets, in sets or singly. They also offer impact sets, which include drivers, adapters and different sockets. Different drivers, some with inside hexagon for screwdriver bits, also come separately.

Hazet

Hazet was established in 1868, and today the company is among the most advanced in Europe. Hazet offers a popular line of impact wrenches, covered with a shock-resistant ultra-light plastic or magnesium housing, giving them maximum performance with little weight. The wrenches also have a powerful twin-hammer mechanism and several power settings for forward and reverse. Their cold-insulated handle minimizes vibrations, and the exhaust air is guided downwards through the handle. Hazets impact wrenches come in several different sizes.

You can lower the front and the back of a Harley. Numerous aftermarket vendors sell "drop in" fork lowering kits that will lower your front end. But lowering the front end decreases ground clearance, which means your bike will no longer -- barely -- clear that parking lot speed bump. Getting hung up on that bump will damage your bike. Since this is an 883 Sportster, usually an entry-level Harley, a better place to begin might be to slightly lower the rear end by installing shocks that are one inch under stock length. Your seat will be lower, and an entry-level biker can do it himself.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster to fully upright and level by slightly raising the bike on a motorcycle jack, by driving the front wheel into a motorcycle chock, or by clamping the front wheel upright in a motorcycle clamp.

2

Unbolt the lower right shock mounting bolt that connects the old shock absorber to the frame. The bolts on Sportsters shipped after 2005 come off with an Allen socket. Earlier models unfasten with a deep well hex socket.

3

Remove the bolt, nut and washer. Remove the top mounting bolt on the right shock and save all the hardware.

4

Remove the left shock by repeating these steps.

5

Spread three or four drops of thread locker over the screws of all the mounting bolts with your finger. Bolt the new, 1-inch-under-standard-length shock absorbers into the same holes with the same bolts that held the original shocks in place. Use a torque wrench and an Allen or deep well hex socket to tighten the bolts to 48 foot pounds of torque.

6

Lower the jack or remove the bike from the chock or clamp. Push the rear end of the bike down and let it rebound up to be sure that the new shocks work.