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BMW based its 7 series of cars, made from 1994 to 2001, on its E38 platform. The 740I --- the most popular vehicle in the series --- featured an eight-cylinder, 4.4-liter engine. All of the engines in this series use fuel injection, which requires a fuel injector to deliver fuel to the engines at high pressure. The fuel injectors for the E38 incidents are part of the fuel rail assembly on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the front of the fuel rail.

2

Attach a pair of locking pliers to the adjustment screws on the hose clamps for the fuel return line on the fuel rail. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen the clamps and disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail. Remove the flare nut on the fuel line with a 12-millimeter socket and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.

3

Spray compressed air around the base of the fuel injectors to keep debris out of the injector ports. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a 10-millimeter socket.

4

Pad the corner of the valve cover with a clean shop towel and pry the fuel rail with a small pry tool to lift the injectors out of the manifold. Push the fuel lines to the side and remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

5

Pull the fuel injectors from the fuel rail assembly and connect the new fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail assembly to the engine and fasten the mounting bolts for the fuel rail.

6

Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail with the flare nut. Connect the fuel return line to the fuel rail by attaching the hose clamps and fasten the retaining screws on the clamps.

7

Connect the vacuum hose to the front of the fuel rail and attach the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors. Replace the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench.

The exhaust manifold collects the exhaust from all of the cylinders and channels it away from the engine through the exhaust pipe. An exhaust manifold that is cracked will no longer work efficiently and you will need to replace it. Leaking exhaust exposes anyone riding in the car to carbon monoxide fumes as well. It does not take very long to replace the exhaust manifold on a Ford. You can do the job yourself in your driveway with some basic tools.

Instructions

1

Cool the engine completely before you begin this project or severe burns could result. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the wiring harness from the electric fan. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator using a wrench. Disconnect the electrical wire from the heated oxygen sensor.

2

Remove the nut and bolt securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold using a wrench. Remove the bracket bolt from the oil dipstick tube using a wrench. Remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the manifold.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold by loosening the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove the manifold from the engine block. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gasket. Place a new exhaust manifold and gasket on the engine block. Tighten the retaining bolts with the socket and ratchet. Install the oil dipstick bracket and tighten the nut with a wrench.

4

Connect the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold and tighten the bolt and nut using a wrench. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield using a socket and ratchet to tighten the bolts. Connect the electrical wire to the heated oxygen sensor. Install the electric fan to the radiator and tighten the bolts with a wrench.

5

Plug the wiring harness into the fan. Connect the negative cable to the battery and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.

Adjust the emergency brake on your Mustang right from your home garage and save money. You can adjust it from inside the car so you dont have to get yourself dirty by working under the car. Is time to adjust the parking brake when you park downhill and the parking brake starts to slip. This means that the parking brake cable has slackened inside the cable rod and needs to be tightened with the adjuster nut. Tension put on the emergency brake over time causes the parking brake to slip.

Instructions

1

Locate the parking brake in the front center of the inside of the vehicle. Remove the console cover that houses it.

2

Lift up the emergency brake lever four notches.

3

Look for the parking brake cable rod. On this rod is an adjuster nut. Turn that nut with the pliers until it is loose but make sure it doesnt fall off all the way.

4

Release the parking brake and tighten the nut.

5

Raise and lower the emergency brake lever four times. This will set the adjustment of the parking brake.

6

Park the Mustang on a downhill slant and engage the parking brake only. It should hold the vehicle in place. If it doesnt, repeat the adjustment.

A cars fuel injection system supplies fuel to the engine. In order to get optimum performance from your vehicle, the fuel must flow at a steady pressure. Regulators control the fuel flow, making sure it is consistent. Like other mechanical parts, regulators can break down and require replacement. Symptoms of a faulty regulator include lower gas mileage, excess smoke from exhaust pipes and leaking oil from the engine. Replacing a fuel regulator can be a difficult task for inexperienced owners, but if you have basic car repair experience, you can save money and replace it yourself.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by opening the gas cap. Open the hood of the car and separate the cable from the negative battery terminal. Pull out the cushion on the rear seat. Remove the screws on the service hole cover and take off the cover.

2

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel pump assembly. Use the fuel line disconnect tool to unplug the fuel outlet pipe from the fuel pump bracket. Unscrew the retaining screws for the fuel pump bracket with the socket wrench. Pull off the return hoses from the bracket. Take the assembly out of the fuel tank.

3

Use the socket wrench to remove the fuel suction support from the fuel pressure regulator. Separate the fuel filter from the regulator. Find and remove the O-ring from the regulator.

4

Apply a thin coating of gasoline to the O-ring and insert it into the new fuel pressure regulator. Attach the regulator to the fuel filter. Connect the fuel suction support to the regulator using the wrench.

5

Replace the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank and reconnect the hoses to the fuel pump bracket. Attach the retaining screws to the fuel pump bracket and connect the fuel outlet pipe to the fuel pump bracket.

6

Reattach the wiring for the fuel pump assembly. Reinstall the service hole cover with the socket wrench. Reinstall the rear seat cushion and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Its a good idea to proceed with caution before agreeing to car repairs at a garage. Take a few days to compare garages to decide which car garage is the best for you.

Family and Friends

Many car owners have a trusted mechanic they turn to for repairs, but if the work needed on the car is outside the mechanics specialty, ask for a erral. Aside from your mechanic, ask family members or friends if they know of a good car garage. Chances are good someone you know has had to have their car repaired at a garage. They can offer some pointers on where to get the best deal.

Insurance Providers

Your insurance provider often has information on good car garages. Many car garages leave their business cards and information with car insurance companies because its the best way for them to get more business. Additionally, these garages must meet high standards and have certification before they are a business car insurance companies are willing to recommend.

Compare Estimates

Most car garages will provide you with a free estimate. Make sure you get a detailed list of estimates. Dont be surprised if the part you end up buying at the garage cost more than it would at an auto parts store.

Customer Service

Do the staff and mechanics act professional? Do they treat you with courtesy? Do they get work done on time? Do they work well together? How garage staff treat you now is not likely to change once you are their customer. Pay attention to how you feel being in this place of business and how others act toward you. If the mechanic is rude or the counter person would rather text instead of assisting you, take your business elsewhere.

Personnel and Credentials

Some car repair requires work done by a certified mechanic or a specialist. Some garages may have these mechanics, some may not. Make sure the garage is candid about what kind of repairs need to be done on your car and whether they have the right mechanics for the job. The better garage to go with is the one that has the kind of mechanic youll need for your car repair.

Years ago in the days of R12 rigerant, when an air-conditioning service port went bad on your automobile, a Schrader valve could simply be serviced by itself. In todays 134A world, things have gotten a bit more complicated and costly. You cannot just replace the inside of a Schrader valve; now you have to replace the entire line where the port is located.

Instructions

1

Connect either the high side or low side hose on an A/C servicing station to the appropriate service port. Do not connect a line from the air-conditioning servicing station to the defective port. Evacuate the R134a rigerant into the rigerant tank on the air-conditioning station by turning on the evacuation pump and running it until all the rigerant has left the system.

2

Disconnect both ends of the line with the defective service port and remove the line. Cover the connections on the A/C system with clean shop rags to prevent dirt and moisture from getting into the A/C system.

3

Inspect the connections for discoloration. If the connections are clean and slightly oily there are probably no other problems that caused the service port to go bad. Blackened connections could be a sign of internal compressor problems. Investigate further and perform any necessary repairs.

4

Connect the ends of the replacement line with the built-in service port just as the old line was connected. Ensure that any O-rings or seals at the ends of the lines are replaced and lubricated with mineral oil before the new line is installed.

5

Connect the other hose from the A/C servicing station to the replacement port. Start the evacuation pump and run it for 15 to 20 minutes to ensure that all the moisture has boiled out of the A/C system. Note the vacuum readout on the A/C station. Allow the system to sit for 10 minutes. Recheck the A/C stations vacuum readout to ensure there is no loss in vacuum. A loss indicates a leak in the system, probably in one of the two replacement line connections. Repair as needed.

6

Remove the service hose from the high side service port and start the vehicle. Turn the climate control switch to "Maximum." Set the machine to charge the system with R134a and the correct amount of compressor oil through the low side service valve. When enough rigerant is in the system, the air-conditioning compressor will start and draw the rest of the desired amount of rigerant and oil into the system. Remove the low side hose, completing the replacement of the service port.

Properly working headlights on a car are vital for your safety and the safety of other drivers on the road. Fixing the headlights on your Mitsubishi Eclipse is an easily implemented task with the use of just a screwdriver and a few minutes of your time. The specific headlight required for your Eclipse will depend on the year it was made so consult a auto parts specialist if there is any questions on the unit required for your specific car.

Instructions

1

Purchase you replacement headlight. Check with the auto parts representative for the correct fixture for your year of Eclipse vehicle and the proper side that you are fixing. They should be able to give you the exact part for your needs.

2

Turn your car off and remove the keys from the ignition. Pop the hood of your Mitsubishi and make sure that it is properly secured so it does not close while you are repairing the light.

3

Look at the rear of the light fixture and locate the four screws around the light perimeter that holds it in place. Remove these screws with a flathead or Phillips screwdriver, whichever that specific year of car and light fixture call for.

4

Place one hand on the back of the light fixture and one on the front. Gently but firmly push the light towards the front of the car. Stop pushing when you have pushed it forward 2 to 3 inches.

5

Work your fingers behind the light fixture and disconnect the wires that are connecting the light to the car. There will be up to three sets of wires. Pull the wires away from the unit gently to disconnect them and set the old light aside.

6

Remove your new headlight from the packaging and slide it into the space where the old light unit was. Connect the wires in the back of the new light, push the light into place, and secure the light into place with the four new screws that came with the new unit or the old screws.

7

Turn the lights on to test your new headlight. If for some reason it does not work properly, unscrew the unit and make sure the wiring is properly connected. If not, take the new unit back and get a different one to try.

Carbon brushes are electromechanical conducting devices that connect to moving parts to provide an electric current. They are typically used in motors, generators and alternators. Many carbon brush uses exist, but the three basic uses are in household applications that run on alternating current (AC), automotive applications that run on direct current (DC) and industrial applications that run on both AC and DC.

Household

Carbon brushes are a common component in household appliances such as power tools, gardening equipment and office equipment. Vacuum cleaner turbines, hair and hand dryers, and washing and drying machines are also common applications of this type of carbon brush, which is generally much smaller than its industrial or automotive counterparts. Micro-carbon brushes, for example, are precision parts designed for toys, electric razors, and audio and video equipment. In such small dimensions, carbon brushes are often placed inside tiny battery-operated mini-motors designed to transmit power silently and with the least amount of friction to moving parts such as wheels and razors.

Automotive

Cars generally use small and auxiliary carbon brushes for DC motors, starters and alternators. Alternators are devices that convert mechanical energy to electrical energy. They consist of a wire-coiled rotor that produces a magnetic field when a current runs through it. Automotive carbon brushes are used to supply the current to the wire coil in the alternator. Automotive carbon brushes can be found in most passenger vehicles, motorcycles, trucks and oil- and diesel-fueled cars. Even smaller, specially designed carbon brushes are used in steering wheels and contacts for airbags.

Industrial

Industrial carbon brushes are used on large commutator machines, in which the current between the rotor and external circuit is periodically reversed. These include AC and DC motors, slipring rotors, traction motors, turbogenerators, windmills, hydro power stations and steel, cement and paper mills. Industrial carbon brushes also can be used to power battery-driven cars, cable cars and trolley buses, and they are often used in construction vehicles such as forklift trucks and cranes. Brushes connect the generator to the rotor through the commutator, which has copper segments, or lands. The brushes bear the brunt of wear and tear between the rotating rotor and the non-moving generator while conducting electricity between them. Industrial brushes are specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures.

The Acura TL was debuted in 1995 as a mid-size luxury sports vehicle. You can remove the rear seat on your 1999 Acura TL at home, saving yourself a trip to the dealer or mechanic. Sometimes it may become necessary to remove the rear seat so that you can have it reupholstered or replaced. It is kind of a heavy, bulky job but it doesnt take long to do. Allow about 30 minutes or less to complete the task once you have obtained a socket wrench set.

Instructions

1

Slide the front seats all the way forward to give yourself some room to work in the back.

2

Lift up the back of the rear seat cushion in the crevice to find a bolt. Remove the bolt with a socket wrench.

3

Pull the latches underneath the rear seat cushion forward to free them from their hooks. Remove the seat cushion from the Acura out one of the side doors.

4

Find three bolts under the seat back and two above the seat back near the headrests. Remove all five bolts with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the seat back forward and out of the vehicle.

In 2004, Chrysler informed the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration that it would recall certain Liberty model Jeeps equipped with 3.7-liter engines, citing problems with the two valve cover studs. In 2006, Chrysler recalled some two-wheel drive Liberty vehicles with 3.7-liter engines, because of issues with the left oxygen sensor wiring harness.

Significance

If affected Jeep owners dont repair the defects prompting the recall, the wiring harness issue could cause a fire under the hood. Liberty owners should contact the manufacturer or the NHTSA, supplying their Jeeps VIN number, to see if its been recalled.

Risks

In both recalls, the risk of fire stems from the chance that the alternator harness and/or the wiring harness could come into contact with a hot exhaust pipe, leading to potential personal injury and/or property damage.

Remedies

Dealers must add protective caps to the valve cover studs and re-route affected wiring harness to repair the alternator wiring harness issue. To repair the oxygen sensor wiring harness problem, dealers must secure the excess length of the wiring harness and fix any damage already done to the wiring.

Head studs increase the holding power between the engine block and the engine head. This keeps an installed head gasket in place when under the stress of a high horsepower engine. A head stud looks similar to a bolt without the hex head. The coarser threads of the stud hold secure in the threaded holes of an engine block and the finer threads hold a nut to keep the head secure to the engine block. Improperly installing head studs will cause damage to the engine block and to the head, costing you a lot of money in replacement parts.

Instructions

1

Spray brake cleaner into a threaded engine block hole. Push the end of a pipe cleaner into the hole to clear it of debris. Pull the pipe cleaner from the hole. Rotate the pipe cleaner and push the other end in the hole. Repeat the process of spraying brake cleaner and cleaning the hole with pipe cleaners until the end of the cleaner pulls from the hole free of debris.

2

Thread a chaser tap in the cleaned hole. Run the tap to the bottom of the hole. Remove the tap. Spray brake cleaner in the hole. Push a wire brush in the hole. Pull it quickly from hole. Repeat the wire brush cleaning three to four times. Blow compressed air in the hole to remove remaining debris. Clean each threaded engine block hole as described.

3

Apply red threadlocking sealant on the larger coarse threads of the head studs.

4

Align the sealant coated threads of each head stud with a threaded engine block hole. Turn each bolt clockwise with the correctly sized wrench until the stud tightens in the hole and the bottom of the stud hex nut sits tight to the top of the engine block.

The Grand Cherokee is a mid-size sport utility vehicle produced by the Jeep division of Chrysler. The WJ versions of this vehicle include the 1999 to 2004 models and represent a complete redesign over the previous Grand Cherokee. The most common engine in the 2001 Grand Cherokee is a 6-cylinder, 4.0-liter engine. The replacement of the water pump on this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the water pump.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit over night to ensure the coolant will not burn you. Place a container under the radiator drain and remove the drain cock. Drain the contents of the radiator into the container and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so you dont start the engine inadvertently. Detach the electrical connector for the cooling fan and remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the engine.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the power steering pump. Detach the coolant hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump and remove the water pump. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Clean the mating surfaces of the water pump and engine to remove any traces of the old gasket. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 17 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the heater hose and radiator hose to the water pump. Install the water pump pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Connect the power steering pump and the cooling fan assembly. Torque the mounting bolts for the cooling fan to 31 inch-pounds. Install the accessory drive belt and attach the electrical connector for the cooling fan.

6

Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench and ill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

You can reset the computer on your Honda Element right from your home garage, saving yourself a trip to the mechanic. The Honda Element is equipped with an onboard diagnostics (OBD) computer, which receives and stores trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When it receives one of these codes, it alerts you by illuminating a warning or service light on the instrument panel. Once you have had the problem looked at and fixed, you or your mechanic will need to reset the computer in order to shut off the lights and keep your vehicles computer functioning properly.

Instructions

1

Find a port under the dashboard on the drivers side of the vehicle that is the same size and shape as the connector on the OBD code scanner. Plug the scanner into the port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position but dont start the engine. The vehicles power turns on the scanner. Let the scanner read the trouble codes.

3

Press the "reset" or similar command on the face of the scanner to reset the vehicles computer. Unplug the scanner and shut off the vehicle.

4

Wait 60 seconds then start the engine. Verify that the warning and service lights have shut off on the vehicles instrument panel.

If you have owned a car for any length of time, you have probably already figured out that cars will break down from time to time. Cars are made up of a complex arrangement of mechanical and electronic parts, all of which have the capacity to fail or malfunction. Fortunately, replacement parts exist to replace virtually any component on your vehicle that breaks.

Replacement Parts

Automotive replacement parts are parts that are made to replace existing parts when they break. Replacement parts are manufactured by both the vehicle manufacturers and aftermarket parts manufacturers. You can by a replacement for virtually every component on your vehicle, including body panels, knobs, dials, wiring, belts, pumps, pulleys, sensors and even the mechanical parts such as the engine and transmission. Granted, if your vehicle is not a common make or model, you will often have a harder time finding replacement parts or have to get used parts, but the components are still out there and available for purchase.

OEM Parts

Original Equipment Manufacturer parts (OEM) are auto parts that were manufactured by the same company that made the original part. This means that the part is identical to the original item that was in your car in every way possible. OEM parts are often considered desirable by mechanics and vehicle restorers because they keep the vehicle in as close to original condition as possible.

High Performance Parts

Performance parts are designed to be more sophisticated and higher quality than the original manufacturer parts. These may correct design flaws that the original parts experienced. They may also be designed to improve performance by increasing horsepower or the capacity of a component. for example, a larger radiator to improve efficiency of the cooling system.

Used Parts

There is a large market for second-hand or rebuilt auto parts. Some components, such as alternators and starters, can be professionally rebuilt and used again. Rebuilding typically involves replacing the internal components of the part. Used parts can be purchased from a parts reseller such as a junkyard. Used parts tend to be less expensive than new parts and many used parts come with a warranty.

If your Lexus RX 300 cigarette lighter will not remain in place when pushed inward, there are a few steps you can take to repair the problem. You can fix a cigarette lighter for a Lexus RX 300 as a do-it-yourself project, but if your efforts do not solve the problem, you should take it to your local Lexus dealership for repair service.

Instructions

1

Retrieve your manual. Then, check the fuse box. The fuse box of a 2001 Lexus RX300 is located behind the coin holder drawer, to the left of the steering column. Check your manual to see which fuses operate the cigarette lighter socket. If the fuse is blown, you will see a small, broken wire in the interior of the plastic shell of the fuse. Replace a blown fuse with a fuse rated for the same amperage.

2

Pull out the ash tray to gain access to the lighters wiring connector. The 12 volt and ground wires are connected to the socket. Also, identify an L-shaped wire that has a rubber coating. This is a fuse. Find the two small terminals at the bottom of the L-shaped, rubber-coated fuse. Remove the fuse, then bend a paper clip in an L-shape and place it where the L-shaped, rubber coated fuse was positioned. You should position the L-shaped paper clip at the end of the socket.

3

Remove the ash tray from its panel. Remove any small Phillips screws. Then, remove each spring found on the side of the ash tray.

4

Disassemble the lighter assembly or lighter housing, by loosening a hex nut at the bottom of the lighter assembly. To accomplish this task, the panel must be off. Then, reassemble the lighter assembly. Check to see if your lighter will stay in position when pushed inward.

5

Replace the lighter with a standard size cigarette lighter from your local auto parts store. If a fuse is not burned out, and if disassembling and reassembling the lighter socket still does not help the lighter stay in, take your RX 300 to a Lexus dealership.

6

Explain the problem with the RX300 cigarette lighter fixture, and ask a Lexus service professional to inspect your cigarette lighter socket. The dealership should inspect your RX300 to check for any possible wiring or electrical problems.

The wheel sensor system on a 1998 Subaru Legacy is directly controlled and monitored by the anti-lock braking system, or ABS, computer. It order to determine which wheels are locking-up, the ABS computer monitors the speed of each wheel individually and compares that speed to the vehicle speed sensor value and the other front wheel. In the event of a wheel lock-up, the ABS computer selectively limits brake pressure until the wheels return to a normal rolling condition. Replacement wheel speed sensors are available for purchase from auto parts stores, Subaru dealerships, and online parts websites.

Instructions

Front Sensor Removal

1

Break the lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tire.

2

Locate the wheel speed sensor on the inside of the steering knuckle. It is made from black plastic and has a single wire protruding from it that runs up the inside of the strut assembly. Disconnect the sensor connector inside the engine compartment.

3

Remove the bolts holding the sensor harness to the strut assembly with a ratchet and metric socket. Remove the bolts holding the wheel sensor to the knuckle housing with a ratchet and metric socket.

4

Remove the sensor from the housing by gripping the sensor between your thumb and foinger and slowly twisting it back and forth while pulling out of its mounting hole.

Front Sensor Installation

5

Slide the new sensor into its mounting hole on the steering knuckle flange. Insert a feeler gauge between the sensor reluctor wheel and the sensor hole. Press the sensor down into its mounting hole and set the clearance using the feeler gauge. The specified value is 0.9 to 1.4 mm.

6

Install the sensor retaining bolt and tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench.

7

Feed the sensors wire up to the engine compartment and reconnect it to its primary electrical connector. Position the sensor wire bracket on the strut assembly and reinstall the bracket retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the tire and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds.

8

Check to make sure that the sensor wire isnt distorted or strangled. Test drive the vehicle to make sure that the sensor operates properly and that no ABS error lights illuminate on the dash board.

Rear Sensor Removal

9

Break the rear lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and tires. Remove the bolts holding the front seat cushion hinges to the body with a socket and metric ratchet. Lift up the front edge of the seat cushion and detach the rear hooks from back of the seat. Remove the lower seat cushion from the vehicle.

10

Remove the bolts holding the lower-edge of the back cushion to the body. Pull the release strap to release the folding lock on the top of the back cushion. Fold the cushion down toward the body and disengage its retaining hooks. Remove the back cushion from the vehicle. Disconnect the ABS connector thats beneath the rear seat and push the wire through the rubber grommet hole in the body.

11

Slide underneath the rear of the vehicle on a mechanics creeper and remove the bolt holding the rear ABS sensor to the backing plate behind the wheel hub. Remove the bolt holding the sensor wire to the trailing link. Pull the sensor out of the backing plate and remove the sensor assembly from the vehicle.

Rear Sensor Installation

12

Set the sensor wire into position on the trailing link and reinstall the trailing link bolt. Tighten it to 17 to 31 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Reinstall the ABS sensor into the backing plate and set the gap between the backing plate and the sensor with a feeler gauge; the specified value is 0.7 to 1.2 mm. Tighten the sensors retaining bolt to 17 to 31 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

13

Feed the ABS wire through the rubber grommet and into the cabin, then reconnect the ABS sensors electrical connector inside the vehicle. Set the seat back cushion into position and attach the lower seat cushion hooks to the mounting holes. Fold the seat back cushion up until it latches into position, then reinstall the seat back cushion retaining bolts.

14

Set the lower seat cushion into position and engage the rear latches with the retaining hooks on the back of the seat. Fold the seat down and reinstall the seats retaining bolts. Reinstall the tires and torque the lug nuts to lug nuts to 65 foot-pounds, plus or minus 7 foot-pounds. Lower the vehicle back to the ground, then test drive it to ensure that the sensors operate properly.

International surely had no way of knowing just how important their new 6.9 liter diesel would become when they introduced it in 1978. While the 6.9 liters 170 horsepower and 338 foot-pounds of torque arent particularly impressive by todays standards, the fact is this engine laid the foundation for a partnership between International and Ford that would eventually culminate in the well-known Powerstroke series.

Starting Fluid

Starting fluid is a mixture of various volatile hydrocarbons, primarily diethyl ether and heptane, butane and propane. Starting fluid has a much lower auto-ignition temperature than gas or diesel, making it an ideal fuel to start engines with ailing ignition or fuel-injection systems. The 6.9 liter diesel is a simple engine, and responds to starting fluid the same way that any other diesel does. A three to five second burst of starting fluid sprayed directly into the intake tube should be all you need if the engine is capable of starting at all.

The Addiction Myth

Some old-timers will tell you that starting fluid is a death sentence for any engine, especially diesels. According to the wisdom of ages, diesel engines get "addicted" to starting fluid and will forever more require it after the first application. This is patently untrue; starting fluid is a fuel just like any other and your engines physical structure in no way changes just because you start it with ether. More likely, this "addiction" is simply a worsening of whatever condition it was that forced you to use starting fluid in the first place.

Welding is a skill that some people take years to perfect, and it can be done in a multitude of different ways. One of the most common and inexpensive methods of welding is MIG welding, which will work perfectly for an exhaust system. Welding two exhaust pipes together will seal the joint and make the exhaust system leak-free. This is a complicated process and should be done by someone with experience in welding; otherwise, you risk injury.

Instructions

1

Jack up the car using a jack and put it on four jack stands. Make sure there is enough room for you to move easily around the underside of the car. Crawl underneath the car and locate the section of exhaust tubing you want to weld. Examine the wall thickness of the tubing.

2

Compare the wall thickness of the tubing with the system setup diagram on the inside cover of the welder. Set your welder to the settings listed for that gauge of metal. These settings will vary with each welder.

3

Clamp the exhaust lines together using the exhaust clamp, making sure to butt the two pieces of exhaust tubing together perfectly. Put on the welding helmet and gloves.

4

Set the ground clamp for the welder on the exhaust. Place the end of the welder approximately 1/8 inch away from the surface of the exhaust. Pull the trigger. Work the puddle you see through the helmet into crescent shapes, working your way back and forth until you have a 1 inch long weld. Repeat the process on the other side of the exhaust clamp.

5

Remove the exhaust clamp then weld the remaining perimeter of the exhaust tubing. Remove the vehicle from the jack stands using the jack.

Air ride was first used in 1909, but it was quickly eliminated as the systems had a tendency to leak. Properly functioning air ride systems were a common feature in luxury automobiles in the late 1950s. These systems use several components to change the ride quality and height.

Compressor

The air compressor is typically hidden behind the rear seat or in the trunk. The compressor uses the 12 volt power to run an internal piston and build air pressure. This air is used to adjust the ride height or quality.

Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is an integral part of keeping this system operating properly. This pressure switch measures the pounds per square inch (psi) in the system and turns the compressor on and off as needed.

Air Bags

The air bags are underneath the vehicle and connected to the suspension. The air bags are rubber bags that fill with air provided by the compressor. The bags perform a few functions: ride height adjustment and ride style. The bags raise the vehicle by inflating and lower the vehicle by deflating.

Lines

The air lines in this system transfer air from the compressor to the air bags. These lines are typically rubber with braided steel covers.

Adjustment Switch

Some trucks and SUVs have a switch inside the cabin to adjust the system. The switch is designed to raise and lower the vehicle at the drivers command.

Disabling Switch

Some vehicles, Ford, Lincoln and Mercury primarily, have automatic adjusting shocks that work whether the vehicle is off or on. When you lift these vehicles, for any reason, the system senses the change in pressure and begins inflating the air bag. When this happens, it can cause the system to blow a hole in the air bag. This is why the disabling switch was put on these vehicles. This switch is typically in the trunk.

The fuel filter on a 1985 Buick Century is designed so that gasoline flowing to the engine is free of harmful debris. The fuel pump, located inside the gas tank, has a built-in strainer. This keeps large debris from leaving the tank but smaller debris and sediment can get past the strainer. If not changed, the small debris will eventually clog the fuel filter; this can affect gas mileage and engine performance. Fuel filters should be changed annually or every 30,000 miles.

Instructions

Remove the Fuel Filter

1

Open the hood and locate the fuse panel. Open the fuse panel and locate the fuel pump relay. Pull it out by hand.

2

Start the engine and let it run. The engine will stall once the fuel system has depressurized. Turn off the engine and replace the relay back in to the fuse panel. Close the fuel panel.

3

Crawl under the car behind the driver-side rear wheel well and look for the fuel filter. The fuel filter is canister-shaped with a fuel line entering and exiting the filter; it will be in a mounting bracket on the frame rail. You can also trace the fuel line from the gas tank to find the fuel filter.

4

Place a drain pan under the fuel filter to catch any gas in the fuel lines or the fuel filter.

5

Disconnect the inlet fuel line from the fuel filter by pinching the tab on the quick-disconnect fitting and pull the fuel line off the fuel filter. If the fuel line is held on by a hose clamp, loosen the clamp with a screwdriver. Remove the outlet fuel line the same way.

6

Use a socket wrench to loosen the bolt on the mounting bracket and slide the fuel filter out of the bracket. Discard the fuel filter.

Install the Fuel Filter

7

Slide the new filter in the bracket. Make sure the arrow on the fuel filter is pointing toward the front of the car. The arrow designates the direction of fuel flow. Tighten the bracket bolt with the socket wrench. The fuel filter should be tight in the bracket.

8

Push the inlet fuel line onto the fuel filter until it clicks in place. If held on by hose clamps, push the fuel line over the fitting on the fuel filter. Slide the hose clamp over the hose and fitting and tighten it with a screw driver. Do the same for the outlet fuel line.

9

Start the engine and let it to run for at least 5 minutes.

10

Check the fuel filter and fuel lines to make sure there are no gas leaks.