For U Solution

The clutch disc has splines in the center hole that mesh over the splines of the transmission input shaft. That rigidly connects the disc to the wheels via the transmission. The disc is pinched solidly between the flywheel and the spring-loaded pressure plate when engaged. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch disc is released so the engine can rotate while the wheels are stopped. High-performance vehicles use a larger diameter clutch to help prevent slippage when a lot of horsepower is transferred to the wheels. There are several ways to measure a discs outside diameter (OD).

Instructions

1

Lay the clutch disc on a flat, level surface. Place two small carpenter squares, one on each side of the disc, 180 degrees apart. The squares should be placed against the disc like backwards book ends. Measure the distance between the squares.

2

Place the clutch disc on a level surface with the straight edge of a yardstick over the center line of the clutch disc and align both outside edges of the disc with the inch markings on the yardstick to gain an accurate measurement.

3

Raise the rear wheels, of the vehicle with the clutch to be measured off the ground and spot two jack stands, one under each axle tube near the wheels.

4

Remove the bellhousing inspection cover using a box-end wrench. Tape and attach one end of a flexible dress makers tape to the pressure plate cover disc. Use a small strip of cellophane tape to hold it in place.

5

Weave the flexible tape inside the mounting brackets of the pressure plate. Be sure the measuring tape gets an unobstructed circumference measurement of the round cover disc on the pressure plate. The OD of the cover disc is the same as the OD of the clutch disc.

6

Calculate the clutch diameter using the circumference measurements acquired with the flexible tape. To extract the diameter from the circumference measurement, divide the circumference by pi (3.14). For example: say the circumference is 34.5 inches; 34.5 divided by 3.14 equals 10.987. This would equate to an 11-inch clutch disc.

Head gaskets serve a major purpose, and without them, or with faulty ones, car engines would run terrible, if at all. These gaskets are specially engineered to withstand extreme heat and compression that is built up within the engine providing an air tight seal. Understanding how head gaskets work is important to proper car maintenance.

Identification

The head gasket is located between the engine block and the head. The head bolts on top of the engine block and the valve cover bolts on top of the head. The head gasket is made of metal and is a one-piece gasket.

Function

The gasket ensures that the compression the engine builds stays within the block and doesnt escape. The gasket also serves to keep any oil from leaking out of the engine, and it provides a separation of oil and coolant within the engine block.

Considerations

To determine if there is a head gasket leak, start the engine, and before it gets too hot, run a hand across the seam where the gasket is to "feel" if any pressure is coming out from the area. There should be zero pressure along the seam. Another way would be to check the coolant to see if it has an oily feel or brownish color to it. If the head gasket is leaking from inside the engine block, it will allow oil and coolant to mix together. Looking at the underside of the oil filler cap to see if it is a milky brownish color could also represent a coolant and oil mix. Another inspection would be to check for oil leaks along the gasket seam area. Degrease the area first, run the engine at a high rpm and inspect for leaks. A mechanic can also perform a test to determine any loss of compression through the gasket area.

Time Frame

There isnt a specific time frame involved regarding the life of a head gasket. The original factory gasket may last the life of the engine, or it may break down earlier. The quality of the gasket and driving habits are factors regarding the life of the gasket. Heavy accelerations, as used when racing for instance, creating extreme pressure within the engine, can weaken the gasket prematurely.

Warning

If the the mix of oil and coolant is discovered, replace the gasket right away. If there is no mix in fluids, but only a loss of compression, the gasket still needs to be replaced since as the leak increases, even more compression will be lost and most likely a mix of oil and coolant will also eventually occur.

Prevention/Solution

To replace the gasket, all other surrounding parts in the way must be removed. The mating surfaces for the gasket, which are the top of the engine block and the bottom of the head, must be cleaned thoroughly. Proper gasket sealer should be used and it is critical that the head bolts be torqued down evenly according to manufactures specifications.

You can check the trouble codes for your 94 Ford Escort LX without the use of a code scanner. The 94 Ford Escort LX comes equipped with the first generation On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer. This computer receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. These trouble codes are sent when the sensors detect a malfunction in the Escort. You should always read the codes first to diagnose the trouble, then fix the vehicle before resetting the OBD computer. The computer communicates with you via warning and service lights that appear on the instrument panel. If you ignore these lights you may risk further damage to your Ford.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position but dont start the engine. Pop open the hood and prop it up with the safety bar.

2

Find the six-pin receptor Self-Test Output (STO). Next to that output is the small, one-receptor Self-Test Input (STI).

3

Examine the STO and find the two outlets on the bottom. The outlet on the left, as you are facing it, is the ground outlet. Use the jumper wire to connect this ground outlet to the STI.

4

Sit in the drivers seat and turn the key to the "Run" position. Watch the instrument panel while the "Check Engine" light flashes and count the number of flashes. This is the first number in the code. Write it down on a piece of paper. There will be a couple of second pause then the "Check Engine" light will flash again. Count the number of times it flashes. This is the second digit in the code. Write down this number. If there are more codes to follow, they will be separated by a four-second pause.

5

Look up the meaning of the codes in any 1994 Ford Escort LX repair manual.

An erratically operating motorcycle engine signals problems with the combustion system. A sure-fire cause tends to be either poor performance or a misalignment of the carburetors when running a dual system. Flat slide and round slide carburetors cause the same bad engine operation; flat slide carburetors are just more sensitive and responsive. Syncing the carburetors correctly can solve some engine problems, smoothing out the fuel and air delivery to the engine.

Instructions

1

Use a screwdriver and crescent wrench to remove the motorcycle bodywork so you can access the flat slide carburetors easily. Pull or temporarily remove any hoses or electrical wiring in the way of your access as well.

2

Locate the idle-mixture fuel needle on both flat slide carburetors. Use a screwdriver to turn both needle screws in all the way -- turning to the right. Back the screws out with the screwdriver the correct number of turns on both carburetors consistent with the carburetor tuning providing in your motorcycle repair manual -- the number of turns varies by model. Confirm both flat slide carburetor needle screws are turned back out the same number of turns.

3

Check that the fuel supply is on and the fuel hoses are connected to both carburetors and turn on the motorcycle. Wait 5 minutes to allow the engine to get warm. Do not start pulling away on the throttle. Just let the engine idle. Attach the carburetor balancer tool to the carburetors.

4

Locate the throttle shaft shared by both carburetors. Twist the throttle shaft controls with a screwdriver so that the setting matches the readings displayed on the carburetor balancer tool. Pull the throttle a few times slightly while monitoring the readings on the balancer. Continue to adjust the shared throttle control while checking the balancer tool readings until each of the adjustments on the throttle control are matched.

5

Test the engine with some minor sustained throttle pulls on the throttle handle. Continue making adjustments until the engine cycles smooth out as it is running -- no burping, stalling or uncontrolled revving.

Illinois catalytic converter and emissions equipment regulations (collectively erred to as "smog" laws) generally follow the guidelines set by the federal government. The primary difference between Illinois and any other state is not the specific catalytic converter requirements, but how and where they are enforced.

Removal

You cannot remove any functioning catalytic converter from any vehicle originally equipped with one, except for the purposes of replacement. Fines for removal go to the mechanic, and (as per federal standards) can be as much as $10,000. The vehicle owner may or may not be fined, but the owner will be responsible for installing a working converter.

Replacement Conditions

It is illegal to tamper with, modify or otherwise molest any catalytic converter unless you have a certification stating that it is either missing or malfunctioning. These certifications can be obtained at any institution licensed for annual smog testing.

Replacement

If you do meet the replacement conditions, then you can only replace your catalytic converter with one of the same make, model and type as that originally installed on your car. You must also install the new converter in the same location on the car as the old.

Converter Warranties

Converters designed for vehicles 1996 and later must come from the manufacturer with at least an 8 year/80,000-mile warranty.

Exceptions

While converter laws technically apply to all vehicles, you cant be fined if your vehicle never gets inspected. The following vehicles are exempted from annual smog checks: motorcycles, farm vehicles, vehicles registered in 1967 or earlier, vehicles 25 years of age or older, diesels, boats, non-hybrid electric vehicles, off-road only race vehicles and vehicles for which a "junking certificate" has been issued.

Affected Counties

All vehicles in Cook, Dupage and Lake counties must receive annual smog checks. Vehicles in Kane, Kendall, McHenry, Will, Madison, Monroe and St. Clair counties must be annually smog checked unless you live in one of the exempted ZIP codes.

Carburetors are an important component in gasoline powered engines, mixing fuel vapor and air to create efficient combustion, which converts to mechanical power. Motorcycle carburetors come in a multitude of options, designed for street, off-road, casual ride and racing. Keihin offers five lines of carburetors for every motorcycle engine model and type. Keihin carburetors cover the gamut, from inexpensive bolt-on designs, enhancing handle and performance of motor-cross dirt bikes, to full-throttle super-charged carburetors, used for high-performance super-bike racing.

FCR:

Keihin FCR Carburetor models 33MM, 35MM, 37MM, 39MM and 41MM are all engineered with a durable and dependable flat valve, air brake acceleration air pump. The flat valve and slide are hard-coated and engineered to run clean on rollers, for a smooth ride. This is the perfect enhancement or replacement part for all four-stroke engines.

PWK:

Keihin PWK Carburetor models 28MM and 29MM are 83 mm by 147.4 mm in size. The 33MM and 35MM units measure 91-mm by 164.3-mm. The larger PWK models are 36MM, 38MM, and 39MM. These are designed with a width of 91 mm by 171.6 mm in height. The PWK carburetors are designed with a semi-elliptical section valve, providing riders with enhanced air flow. The PWK is a more powerful carburetor than the FCR, providing riders with more rapid engine revs on top, without letting the engine go flat.

PE:

Keihin PE Carburetors models 20MM through 28MM are 83 mm in width, ranging from 136 mm to 150.9 mm in height. Keihin PE models 30MM through 38MM are each 95 mm in width, ranging from 157.8 mm to 182.5 mm in height. These PE carburetors are designed with a chrome-plated round slide valve for two-stroke engines. they are an inexpensive bolt-on carburetor designed to increase performance and ride on mini-cross dirt bikes and scooters.

PWM:

The Keihin PWM Carburetors are Keihins top performer. The PWM is available in three models: 38MM, 39MM and 40MM. Each measures 75 mm in width by 154.5 mm in height. This high performance carburetor was designed with a shorter length, giving the throttle an unparalleled response on top end cycles. The larger float bowl and quad vent system allows two-stroke engines great air flow, enabling them to run in the worst conditions. Keihin PWM carburetors are ideal for fast and furious motor-cross and street-racing bikes.

FCR Street:

Keihin FCR Street Carburetors, available in 32MM, 33MM, 35MM, 39MM and 41MM models, all come in a wide-range of horizontal and downdraft styles and options for two, three and four-cylinder engines. Keihin FCR street carburetors are used by super-bike racing teams around the world. These high performance carburetors are available for application to any road racing bike.

You can find the code for your 2000 Honda CR-V right at home. The 2000 Honda CR-V comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics I computer (OBD-I) that retrieves and stores trouble codes sent to it from various sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. When the computer receives a code, it illuminates a service or warning light on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these codes with a small, computerized device called an OBD I code scanner, available at auto-parts stores or online.

Instructions

1

Find the OBD port on the underside of the drivers-side dashboard near the steering column. Its the same size and shape as the end of the OBD-I code scanner.

2

Plug the scanner into this OBD port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position, but dont start the engine.

4

Wait for the scanner to turn itself on. Some code scanners have to be manually turned on, so you may have to find the "on/off" switch.

5

Select the command "Retrieve Codes" or something similar -- it varies by scanner brand -- and wait for the code scanner to carry out the command. Write the codes it retrieves down on a piece of paper.

6

Look up the codes in the scanners manual. Unplug the scanner from the port and have the vehicle serviced or repaired based on the diagnostic information obtained from the codes.

Building your own motorcycle exhaust is a project that takes some specialized tools, like a pipe bender, steel bender or welder and if you want chrome, you have to do the plating yourself, or take your pipes to a metal shop where they will plate your pipes for a fee. We will look at how to build the basic exhaust, but how you paint it is up to you.

Instructions

1

Measure your bike from the head pipe connection on the engine down to the foot pegs and then to the rear. Now sketch out a basic shape for your exhaust, using these measurements as a guide.

2

Build a full size template for your exhaust system on poster board, cardboard or plywood. Use a heavy marker, and be very precise with your measurements. Have a friend hold the template steady, and match it up several times. Be sure it works on both sides, if you are building exhaust on both sides, since each side of the bike is different.

3

Figure out how many welds you will need to make, if any, then purchase the tubes for your exhaust. Buy them to the full length of the system, which you should have measured using a flexible tape measure, or tailors measure. Measure the outside edge of each side for the most accurate measurement and take the larger one and add a foot or so.

4

Mark the location of each bend with a magic marker at the start of the bend. Allow for an extra half foot at the head pipe section so you can fit the tube in the bender.

5

Heat and bend the pipe at each mark. Make your bends fast but be accurate and do not over bend the pipe. You dont want to have to bend the pipe backwards again.

6

Finish your bending, then attach the muffler. It should slide right on to your pipes.

7

Attach the hardware for the exhaust to your bike. This might have to be custom made as well. Then be sure the exhaust fits all the attachments, including the head pipes and rear braces.

8

Attach your new exhaust and pat yourself on the back. You made your own motorcycle exhaust.

The Ford E40D transmission -- a heavy-duty unit found in E-series vans, F-series trucks, the Bronco and Expedition -- is a computer-controlled transmission for rear-wheel drive vehicles. Ford used the E40D in vehicles made in model years 1989 through 1997.

Gear Ratios

The E40D has a first gear of 2.71 to 1, second gear ratio of 1.54 to 1, third gear ratio of 1.00 to 1 and fourth gear ratio of 0.71 to 1.

EEC-IV Computer System

The E40D was Fords first electronically controlled automatic in light trucks. According to "Popular Mechanics," the E40D receives commands from the EEC-IV on-board engine control computer, "which processes input from engine, transmission and the vehicle itself to determine the best shift points for performance and consistent shift feel."

According to Ford, factors in determining the shift points of the transmission include the transmission temperature, engine speed and altitude. Ford claimed 25 percent better fuel economy in the 1991 F-150 two-wheel-drive pickup with the E40D transmission versus the 1990 F-150 with the older C-6 transmission.

Identifying the Ford E4OD

E-series vans and F-series trucks with the E40D from model years 1989 through 1993 have a shifter pattern of P-R-N-OD-2-1. These models also have an overdrive cancel switch.

In 1994, Ford introduced the 4R70W transmission, which uses the same shifter pattern, making it ineffective to examine the shifter to determine which transmission the vehicle has. All 4.2-liter and 4.6-liter, and some 5-liter, Ford engines use the newer 4R70W. Diesel vehicles and those with 4.9-, 5.4-, 5.8-, 6.8- and 7.5-liter engines have the E4OD.

For an alternate way to determine a trucks transmission, measure the transmission fluid pan. The E40D pan measures approximately 20 inches in overall length, whereas the 4R70W transmission has a length of about 15 inches.

Aftermarket Modifications

Components you can replace with upgraded aftermarket parts include the computer, torque converter, sprags, clutch piston, front pump, sun gear, rear case bushings, pressure regulator, reverse boost valve and center support. You can also add auxiliary oil coolers to ensure greater reliability.

A rotor is a rotating part of an engine, generator or any other part that moves in a circular motion. They are often found in car parts, especially near the braking system. Over time, rotors can become dirty because of their close contact with oil and grease used to lubricate the vehicle. The method for washing a rotor depends on the type of dirt on it.

Instructions

Prepare Your Rotor for Cleaning

1

Secure your cars parking brake and raise the vehicle using a jack.

2

Use a wrench to remove the primary and secondary caliper mounting bolts on the vehicle to expose the rotor.

3

Remove the brake caliper unit. You should now have easy access to the rotor.

4

Gently tug on the rotor to remove it. If that doesnt work, use a rubber mallet to gently dislodge it.

Cleaning the Rotor

5

Inspect the rotor. If it is damaged, cracked or bent you may be better off replacing it instead of cleaning it.

6

Add a small amount of rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner to a soft rag. You can find rubbing alcohol at most drug or grocery stores. Brake cleaner can be purchased at auto repair stores.

7

Wipe down the rotor with the rag using gentle motions, rinsing the rag with warm water periodically if it becomes too dirty.

8

Allow the rotor to dry. Use a soft, dry rag if you dont want to wait for the rotor to air dry.

9

Use 120 to 180 grit automotive sandpaper to remove any solid dirt or debris from the rotors surface. This may not be necessary on all rotors.

10

Wipe the rotor down again to remove any loose particles. Allow the rotor to dry, then replace it.

A vehicles air conditioning (AC) cooling system will not work properly if certain conditions are not met. An auto AC flush and vacuum are two methods of ridding a vehicles cooling system of substances harmful to its operation.

Flush

Debris in a vehicles AC system can cause blockage ultimately affecting its cooling performance. Flushing is a way to remove this harmful debris from the system. Flushing also completely removes oil from an AC system. Flushing should always be done when replacing an AC compressor.

Vacuum

After an AC compressor replacement, the AC system needs to be thoroughly vacuumed using a vacuum pump. The pump removes unwanted moisture and air from the system. Air is removed because it can lower the AC systems cooling abilities, while moisture is removed because it can cause the expansion valve to freeze.

Tips

After flushing an AC system, filters should be installed to prevent left over debris from getting back into the system. During the vacuum process, a device called a thermistor vacuum gauge can help verify all air and moisture have indeed been removed from the system.

The Chevrolet Silverado is one of the best selling trucks of all time. It is rugged, reliable and available with four-wheel drive. However, the front hub assembly must be serviced or replaced occasionally, due to wear and tear. When this happens, the hub nut, which connects the axle shaft to the hub assembly, must be tightened to the right torque setting. If it is not tightened enough, it will loosen and cause an unsafe condition in the front end. On the other hand, over tightening can strip the threads, leading to a costly repair. It also subjects the bearings to unnecessary heat and wear.

Clean the Parts

The underside of a car may be covered with dirt, oil, grime, snow or ice. Clean the parts thoroughly with brake cleaner or degreaser before disassembling or re-assembling any of your cars suspension components.

Determine Torque Setting

The hub nut for a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado is 155 foot-pounds, or 210 Newton-meters.

Use the Proper Tools

Always use the proper sockets, wrenches and torque wrenches. Ill-fitting sockets will strip bolt heads. Tighten the hub nut with a 35 mm socket. A dab of medium-strength thread locker, such as blue Loctite, will prevent the nut from loosening.

Test Drive

When the hub, brakes and wheels are assembled, check for looseness and excessive play. Test drive the truck and verify that the four-wheel drive and ABS systems work.

A scissor jack is a jack designed to lift a car in an emergency. It usually comes with the vehicle and is stored in the trunk close to the spare tire or with the vehicles tool kit. It is designed to give you just enough lift to change a flat tire and get back on the road with a minimum of fuss. Most scissor jacks are very cheap to buy but not very well built. Even so, by doing a few simple repairs you may be able to get a few more uses out of your jack before replacing it.

Instructions

1

Open the two sides of the jack by turning the screw clockwise. Stop as soon as you can see the rod running straight down the middle.

2

Oil the full length of the metal rod running down the center. You can do this by using an oil can with a long spout or by putting the oil on your finger and running your finger along the rod. Make sure the oil gets into the grooves.

3

Screw the jack to its full height and put oil on the rod again. This time the rod will be on the outside of the scissor. Use the same technique of putting oil on your finger and working it into the grooves.

4

Screw the jack down again to about one-third of the way from its full height. Look along the length of the center rod. If this rod is bent, the jack is probably going to need replacement. This bend resulted because the jack popped back a groove while it was being used to lift. To fix it, you may be able to pull the jack up very hard and pop it to the correct groove. However, in doing so you will wear down the grooves further and make the jack more likely to pop back a groove again.

The installation of aftermarket fog lights on your 2003 Honda Civic SI is a simple task that you can accomplish in your driveway or garage. Whether youve been involved in a fender-bender that damaged the factory-installed lights or simply want to personalize your coupe, this relatively inexpensive task requires only household tools and less than an hour of your time.

Instructions

1

Park your 2003 Honda Civic SI on level ground and engage the parking brake. Always be safe when working on a car and double-check that the car is secure and that it has completely cooled.

2

Slide under the front end of the car to the back of the fog-light assembly. Unplug the wiring harness from the light socket. Remove the three mounting bolts on the fog-light assembly. Pull out the assembly.

3

Press the new assembly into place and secure it with the three mounting bolts. Be caul not to overtighten the bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light. Test the lights.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse is a coupe that Mitsubishi Motors has produced since 1990 in the United States. The 2000 model is a third-generation Eclipse, which includes the 2000 through 2005 models. The 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse is available with either a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine or a six-cylinder 3.0-liter engine. The procedure for replacing the crankshaft pulley in a 2000 Eclipse varies slightly, depending on the engine size.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to keep the engine from starting during the crankshaft pulley replacement.

2

Turn the belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the accessory drive belts. Remove the drive belts from around the crankshaft pulley.

3

Raise the vehicle, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the right front wheel with a lug wrench to access the crankshaft pulley. Remove the splash shield from the right front fender with a socket wrench.

4

Remove the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, if your vehicle has a 2.4-liter engine. Disconnect the center retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, if your vehicle has a 3.0-liter engine. Attach a suitable puller to the crankshaft pulley, and remove it from the crankshaft.

5

Align the key way on the new crankshaft pulley with the key on the crankshaft, and mount the pulley to the crankshaft.

6

Fasten the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft sprocket with the retaining bolts, if your vehicle has a 2.4-liter engine. Fasten the center mounting bolt to the crankshaft pulley, if your vehicle has a 3.0-liter engine.

7

Tighten the retaining bolts to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench for a 2.4-liter engine. Tighten the center mounting bolt to between 108 and 116 foot-pounds for a 3.0-liter engine.

8

Connect the splash shield to the right front fender with a socket wrench, and install the wheel with a lug wrench. Lower the vehicle, and mount the accessory drive belts. Adjust the tension on the drive belts by turning the tensioner clockwise. Attach the negative battery cable.

When youre in 6th grade, having a boyfriend can be a lot of fun. That is until you want to end the relationship. If youve never broken up with a boy, your stomach may be full of knots, and once you have broken up with him, you may never want to show up at school again for fear of seeing him. This is normal, and ending a relationship is always hard. Getting rid of a boyfriend in 6th grade takes a gentle approach and sensitivity.

Instructions

1

Meet your boyfriend in a public place, or a place where your mutual friends are present. Although this seems like a situation that requires privacy, it is a good idea to remain safe in a group environment in case things get emotionally intense. When friends are around, step off to the side while remaining in their sight. You dont want to publicly humiliate your boyfriend.

2

Make eye contact with your soon-to-be ex. It is important to maintain composure and not appear uneasy. You do not want to give him any opportunities to try to coerce you into staying in the relationship.

3

Explain calmly that you are no longer interested in having a relationship with him. Do not use accusatory sentences such as, "Youre so boring," or "You never call me." Instead, use yourself as the subject to address your reasons for ending the relationship. For example, "I feel like we shouldnt be rushing into things," or "Im not ready for a boyfriend" are straightforward and gentle statements that get your point across.

4

Tell him the truth when he asks you why youre breaking up with him. Remember it is important to be gentle when breaking up with a 6th grade boy. If he isnt your type, tell him. Just make sure he knows that he shouldnt worry about changing. There isnt anything wrong with him; youre just not interested in dating him.

5

Strive to be friendly even though youre no longer dating. An ex-boyfriend from 6th grade can turn into a lifelong friend.

Unlike many other 2002 vehicles, the 2002 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am used sealed -beam headlights for both low and high beams. This is largely due to the muscle cars "flip-up" headlight doors. The benefit is that the headlights are easier to change than some. The low beam headlights on the Trans Am are located closest to the side fenders and the high beam headlights are located closest to the vehicles grill.

Instructions

1

Turn the headlight switch to the on position. When the headlight doors open, turn the headlight switch back one turn to the parking light position. Leave the switch in this position for the remainder of the procedure.

2

Remove the three trim panel screws (one on top and two on each side) that surround the dual headlights using the Phillips head screwdriver. Remove the trim panel and set it aside face up to avoid scratching it.

3

Remove the four screws (two on top and two on bottom) on the faulty headlight retaining bracket. Inspect the screws before attempting to remove them. The screws are located near each upper and lower corner of the bracket. Do not turn the screws at the top center above the headlight or on the center side of the headlight. These are headlight adjusting screws.

4

Pull the headlight out far enough to grasp the three-pronged plug connected to the back of the sealed beam headlight. Unplug the connection from the headlight.

5

Install the replacement headlight by plugging it into the three-pronged wire harness (making sure the words and numbers stamped on the outer headlight lens are in the upright position) and then place the headlight into its hole.

6

Replace the retaining bracket and screws to hold the headlight into place.

7

Test the headlight by turning the headlight switch back to the on position. Turn the headlight switch back to the parking light position.

8

Replace the trim panel and retaining screws.

Unlike many other vehicles, the blower motor in a 1997 GMC Jimmy is sealed inside the blower motor compartment from the factory. A perforated access panel must be cut and removed in order to replace a faulty motor. The most common sign of a faulty blower is squealing or screeching when the blower fan is set to a medium or high speed setting. This is due to the motor bearings failing after many hours of use. Another common problem with the blower motor is failure of the motor armature assembly. In this situation, the only symptom would be a non-responsive motor despite the desired speed setting.

Instructions

Removal

1

Pop open the hood and support it with the hood prop. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with an 8 mm battery wrench.

2

Remove the bolts holding the VCM to its mounting bracket with a ratchet and metric socket. Leave the VCM connectors attached and swing it to the side and out of the way.

3

Squeeze the spring clamp holding the feed hose to the coolant reservoir with a pair of pliers and slide it away from the end of the hose. Remove the coolant feed hose from the reservoir. Remove the bolts holding the reservoir to the vehicle with a metric socket and ratchet. Remove the reservoir from the vehicle while turning it to its side to prevent coolant from spilling out. Pour the coolant into a drain pan and set the reservoir aside.

4

Disconnect any electrical connectors blocking the blower motor compartment. Remove the screws at the bottom of the from blower motor cover with a ratchet and metric socket. Disconnect the blower motors electrical harness.

5

Cut along the perforated cut lines with a utility knife to separate the upper portion of the cover from the blower motor compartment. Grip the upper half of the cover and tear the remaining section of the access cover away from the blower motor compartment along the tear lines. Cut along the perforated lines on the bottom portion of the cover with a utility knife and then tear the remaining section away from the blower motor compartment until the lower access panel is free.

6

Remove the screws holding the blower motor in place and remove the blower motor from the blower motor compartment.

Installation

7

Set the new blower motor into position inside the access panel and reinstall the blower motor retaining screws with a ratchet and metric socket.

8

Join the tabs of the upper and lower blower motor access panels together to form one panel. Cut a piece of black duct tape to the width of the lower access panel and affix it to the bottom leading edge of the lower access panel.

9

Set the access panel into place and reinstall the panel retaining screws. Align the cut areas of the access panel with the blower motor compartment and seal the cut line areas with black, self-adhesive weather stripping. Let the adhesive set for 15 minutes before proceeding.

10

Reconnect the blower motor electrical harness and the electrical connectors in front of the blower motor compartment.

11

Set the coolant reservoir into position and reinstall its retaining bolt. Reconnect the coolant feed hose and reposition the hose clamp.

12

Set the VCM into position and reinstall its retaining bolts. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and full re-fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and DEXCOOL coolant until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

13

Turn the ignition on and test the blower motor on each fan setting.

Cast iron is a very strong material and when it does become damaged it can be difficult to repair the damage. It is possible to weld repairs into cast iron but it is important to complete all of the steps necessary to prepare the cast iron to receive the repair. Consistency is important when working with cast iron as there are two common approaches to welding cast iron--either cold welding or hot welding. While both methods will work, it is important to choose one and stick with it until the repair is complete.

Instructions

Heated Welding

1

Preheat the damaged engine block prior to welding. If possible, heat the entire engine block to a temperature of approximately 800 degrees. Set the engine block in an area that is enclosed and free of heavy drafts to prevent the engine block from cooling too quickly. If it is not possible to heat the entire engine block, heat the area around the repair.

2

Set the welding torch to a low current. This will minimize the creation of additional stresses caused to the cast iron engine block during the repair.

3

Apply the nickel electrode and begin to fill in the crack in the engine block with a back and forth motion across the crack. Take care to make sure the nickel flows onto the cast iron at either side of the crack.

4

Allow the cast iron block to cool slowly once the repair is complete. If necessary, wrap the engine block in insulated blankets to slow down the cooling rate. The slower the cast iron engine block cools the lower the risk of the repair cracking and pulling away from the cast iron engine block.

Cold Welding

5

Prevent the cast iron engine block from being warmer than 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

6

Start applying the nickel electrode at the bottom of the crack and work in an upward direction of the crack. Move the nickel electrode so that each weld bead moves in the same direction of the one before.

7

Allow the weld to cool slowly once the crack has been filled and the repair complete. Do not speed up the cooling process with water or pressurized air as this could cause the new weld to crack and pull away from the cast iron block.

The 1995 Chevrolet Corsica depends on an oxygen sensor within the exhaust system to monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. The oxygen content of the exhaust determines how much fuel the car uses to keep the engine running. If the sensor fails, your car may start to use a lot more fuel than needed. To save this needless fuel expense, buy a replacement sensor from an auto-parts store and change it at home. The location of the O2 sensor will vary, depending on the engine in your Corsica.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and allow it to warm up, heating up the exhaust system. Turn the engine off before removing the sensor. Raise the Corsica with a jack. Place a set of jack stands beneath the car to support it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor from beneath the car. The sensor threads into the rear of the manifold or the side of the exhaust pipe. Pull the wiring harness connector apart on the end of the sensor.

3

Remove the oxygen sensor from the Corsica with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Place the new sensor into the mounting area and thread it by hand until it no longer turns easily. Tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

4

Torque the sensor to 30 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Connect the wiring harness by pressing the connectors together.

5

Raise the car with a jack to remove the jack stands. Return the car to the ground.

The 3.3L Dodge engine is a front wheel drive V6 engine that was first introduced in 1990 for use in Dodge mini-vans and front wheel drive cars. The oxygen sensor on these vehicles is a small sensor located in the exhaust manifold. The oxygen sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust. This measurement allows the engine computer to adjust the air fuel ratio for optimal efficiency.

Instructions

Removing the Oxygen Sensor

1

Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal by loosening the retaining bolt with a wrench. Pull the clamp off the terminal.

2

Raise the front of the vehicle using an automotive jack. Support with jack stands placed underneath the front frame.

3

Locate the oxygen sensor. It will be screwed into the intake manifold near the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the head pipe.

4

Separate the wiring connector on the oxygen sensor from the engine wiring harness, by pressing in both tabs with you hands. Then pull the two sides of the connector apart.

5

Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold using an oxygen sensor removal socket and breaker bar. The oxygen sensor socket features a slot along the side to facilitate removing the socket without damaging the wiring harness.

Installing the Oxygen Sensor

6

Screw the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold, using the oxygen sensor socket.

7

Plug the oxygen sensor wiring connector onto the engine wiring harness connector using your hand.

8

Lower the vehicle.

9

Reconnect the ground cable to the negative battery terminal by sliding the clamp over the terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt using a wrench.

Wiring lights and brakes in a tow bar can be confusing. Different colored wires must be used, and different gauges as well. Furthermore, the wire must have the correct insulation. The task seems daunting at first. If you break it down into steps, and use some practical tips, the task that first looked daunting becomes easy.

Mount Lights First

Mount all the lights first. That way, you have good points of erence to run the wires to. Furthermore, by mounting the lights first, you are able to plan the routing of the wires accordingly.

Use Rubber Grommets

If wires must be ran inside the chassis, use rubber grommets on the drilled holes where the wires run through. You never want wires to rub on bare metal, since over time chafing occurs. Rubber grommets are inexpensive and readily available at any electrical supply house or trailer parts stores.

Use Correct Gauge

Use the correct gauge wire for the amperage load. For lights, 18 to 12 gauge wire is recommended. Eighteen gauge is the thinnest to 12 gauge being the thickest. RV manufacturers recommend 14 gauge for vehicle lights. If you are building a heavy duty electrical system, use 14 gauge wire for lights, and 12 gauge for the main power lines.

Understand Color Codes

Vehicle color codes are standardized for trailers and towing equipment. White colored wire is used for ground. Red colored is used for main power. Green is used for right turn lights, and yellow for left turn. Brown wire is used for tail and marker lights.

The purpose of the intake valves on 1996 Hondas is to push air through the engine. The fuel and air mixture inside the engine is altered if a valve is burnt; this might cause the car to overheat. The engine might suffer irreparable damage -- and require an overhaul -- if it stays too hot for too long.

Instructions

1

Drive the car around the block. Listen to the sound of the engine and note its operation. A burnt valve causes engine movement that might be felt inside the cab. Listen for any ticking sounds; these are indicative of a burnt valve.

2

Turn off the engine and open the hood. Inspect the the cars valves for burns or cracks. The valves are large metallic cylinders located on top of the engine.

3

Unplug the vacuum hose that runs into the intake manifold. This is the metallic piece around the valves. Plug the end of the hose into a vacuum gauge. Turn on the Honda and look at the gauge. If the needle bounces, the vehicle likely has a burnt valve.

According to the websites Edmunds and Auto Recalls for Consumers, owners of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator have reported problems with the vehicles gearshift knob. These reports deal primarily with the cosmetics of this luxury SUV and nothing with the operation of the Navigators transmission. However, when the gearshift knob does break off or become loose, it can affect the way the operator shifts gears.

Gear Shift Knob Sticks Button

One of the main complaints about the gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator came from Edmunds. This report concerned the knob preventing the driver from pushing the shifting button to engage the gears. The report goes on to state that the driver had to remove the shift knob to engage the shift button and shift the gears. This problem centered on the seal that surrounds the button becoming loose or unglued, in turn preventing the driver from engaging the shift button. The only correction for this problem involved replacing the gearshift sealant or gasket surrounding the shift button.

Gear Shift Knob Loose

The gearshift knob on the 2003 Lincoln Navigator may come loose or come off the gearshift, according to reports from Edmunds. The manufacturer tightens the knob to a certain torque specification and places a lock-tight fluid on it to prevent it from coming loose or coming off. The knob may loosen or come off during normal driving conditions if the manufacturer has failed to torque it down or it has cracked during tightening. In this case, the dealer must replace or retighten the gearshift knob.

Transmission Control Indicator

The transmission control indicator on the dashboard of the 2003 Lincoln Navigator can remain illuminated even in the absence of a transmission problem, according to Edmunds, which attributes the problem to the gearshift control knob causing the shift button to stick and thus causing the warning indicator to remain illuminated. The seal on the gear shift knob can prevent the shift button from returning to the stop position after the driver presses it to engage the gears. In this case, the dealer must replace the seal and seat the gearshift knob correctly to prevent the shift button from sticking.

The 1996 Geo Metro has a four-cylinder 1.3 liter engine that uses fuel injection to deliver fuel to the engine at high pressure. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank, which means you must disconnect the fuel tank before you can replace the fuel pump. Experienced home mechanics should be able to do the job in several steps.

Instructions

1

Loosen the fuel tank cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuse for the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment. Run the engine until it stalls, then engage the engine to ensure you have completely relieved the pressure in the fuel system.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking from the battery.

3

Siphon the fuel through the filler tube of the fuel tank into a container approved for gasoline. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump and fuel sending unit.

4

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Release the clamps on the filler neck and disconnect the filler neck from the fuel tank. Disconnect the clamp from the inlet hose on the fuel filter and detach the inlet hose from the fuel filter.

5

Disconnect the clamps for the fuel lines to the fuel tank and detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with a transaxle jack, and remove the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fuel tank and lower it from the vehicle with the transaxle jack.

6

Release the clamps for the fuel lines on the fuel pump assembly and detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly. Disconnect the attaching screws for the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench and remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank.

7

Remove the mounting screws for the fuel pump. then detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel pump assembly.

8

Perform steps 2 through 4 in reverse to complete the fuel pump installation. Fill the fuel tank and connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Checking tires is a staple of regular maintenance on a forklift. Different types of forklifts used different types of tires. How often the forklift is used, the weight of the loads carried, and ground surfaces all are considerations affecting the proper tire to use. Among the tools needed are a tire press, a forklift jack and replacement tires.

Instructions

1

Inspect your tires. Look for wear or damage. Check to see that the correct tire is being used: polyurethane, solid or pneumatic. Determine if the wear on the tire exceeds 40 percent.

2

Purchase the tires needed for repair.

3

Place the forklift jack under the tire you are replacing. Lift the forklift until you can easily remove the tire.

4

Remove the damaged tire. Use the tire press to separate the tire from the rim. Replace it with the new tire. Press it on the forklift, securing it tightly. Repeat with all damaged tires. If you have only one forklift jack, you will need to lower the forklift, then move the jack to the next tire and repeat Step 3.

5

Contact a local repair company to repair the forklift tire on site. Request a free estimate if this is your first call. Some forklift tires are too large for either in-house or mobile tire presses. In this case, you will need to remove the damaged tire and take into a repair shop that uses a stationary tire press.

According to Kelly Perry an automotive technician with ONB Automotive in Everette, Washington, the popularity of the Ford Tempo was largely due to its reasonable asking price. Sold from 1984 to1994, this mid-sized vehicle was a perfect fit for many consumers. "The Tempo was an economy car with a lower price tag and worked well for someone on a budget, as a first time car or even a commuter vehicle," said Perry.

Options

In 1992 the Ford Tempo had two engine options, the 2.3 HSC inline 4 cylinder and the 3.0 V6. Both took regular gas. The alignment specs are the same for both engine options. The Ford Tempo offered 2 transmissions types: the three-speed automatic or the five-speed manual with overdrive capabilities.

The 1992 Tempo came in either the two-door or four-door sedan styles.

Front Alignment Specifications

Front caster range is +1.69 - +3.19 degrees with a desired +2.44. Left camber range is +.66 - +2.16 degrees with a desired of 1.41. Right camber range is +.22 - +1.72 degrees with a desired of +.97. Toe out is .100" of an inch.

Rear Alignment Specifications

Left and right side camber range is -.91 - +.59 with a desired of -.16. Toe setting is 0" of an inch. There is no caster adjustment on the rear.

Ford introduced the Escape, a compact four-door SUV, in 2001. The 2006 to 2010 Escape came in several front-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of both the traditional and hybrid version of the SUV. The front alignment specs are the same for all trims of the 2006 to 2010 Escape. The rear alignment specs differ for the traditional and hybrid versions.

Front Alignment Specs

The caster on the front end can range from +1.1 degrees to +2.1 degrees, but the ideal setting is +1.6 degrees. The camber can ranger from -0.34 degrees to -1.34 degrees, but the ideal setting is -0.84 degrees. The toe-in can range from zero degrees to +0.46 degrees, but the ideal setting is +0.23 degrees.

Rear Alignment Specs for the Rear End of the Traditional Escape

The camber angle can range from -0.65 degrees to +0.65 degrees but is best when it is evened out at zero. The caster is not adjustable on the rear end. The toe can range from -0.20 degrees to -0.16 degrees.

Alignment Specs for the Rear End of the Hybrid Ford Escape

The camber can range from -0.035 degrees to -.75 degrees, but the ideal setting is -0.1 degrees. The caster is not adjustable on the rear end. The toe can range from -0.10 degrees to -0.14 degrees, with the ideal setting being -0.12 degrees.

Jeep Wranglers were first introduced as four-wheel drive sport utility vehicles in 1987. Although they are available with automatic transmissions, many of the 2000 year models featured a manual transmission. Sometimes when the transmission breaks it will need to be entirely removed from the vehicle to be properly repaired. You can do the job on your own, but it will take at least a few hours. You need some basic automotive tools and a transmission jack.

Instructions

1

Jack up the Jeep and secure it on four jack stands so you have room to get beneath the SUV. Remove the exhaust and the skid plate from the underneath it with the socket wrench set.

2

Use an open-ended wrench to disengage the rear driveline from the transmission. Repeat this process with the front driveline. Detach all wiring from the transmission. Remove the transfer case and linkage from the back of the transmission using the socket wrench by unbolting it and pulling it off the transmission.

3

Position the transmission jack beneath the transmission and jack it up until it touches the bottom of the transmission pan. Loop the chains on the jack around the transmission. Bolt the opposite end of the chain to the jack with the open-end wrench. Confirm that the transmission is secure.

4

Use the socket wrench to remove the transmission crossmember and rear transmission mount from the frame. Pull the crossmember away from the frame so that you can remove the transmission from beneath the vehicle without obstruction.

5

Use the socket and ratchet to unbolt the transmission from the engine. Unfasten the clutch brace rod before lowering the transmission away from the motor with the jack.

Subaru vehicles have a long history of exhaust problems, and the Outback is no exception. The original exhaust system will last the longest; it is constructed of stainless steel. Aluminized exhaust systems are a common and more affordable replacement option and depending on your geographical region, can last as little as two years. Road salt and other road contaminants can lead to premature wear and tear on aftermarket exhaust systems.

Heat Shields

Raise the Outback on a lift, ramps or jack stands so you can inspect the exhaust system thoroughly. One of the most annoying aspects of all Subaru vehicles is that all the exhaust components are wrapped with insulated heat shields. While the heat shields offer a protection against grass fires in arid regions, it is likely that the shields will become corroded and loosen. Loose heat shields will vibrate during engine acceleration or idling. Use radiator clamps to tighten and re-secure the heat shields to the exhaust pipes they surround. This can be a challenging task depending on the location of the loose heat shield. Subaru Outback exhaust systems employ several components with awkward bends and angles. This may challenge the task of integrating the radiator clamp position in order to tighten the shield and silence the rattle. In the best case scenario, youll be able to effectively apply the radiator clamp around the heat shield and fasten it to the exhaust pipe, but the repair, at best, is a temporary solution to a permanent problem.

Cutting off the heat shields is a more permanent solution, but it is not recommended. It can be illegal in states that endure high forest-fire risks. Other states may mandate the heat shields on vehicles in order to pass the vehicle state inspections.

Flange Connections

Other than the heat shields, the next-weakest links in the Subaru exhaust system components are the flange connections. Inspect the flange connections thoroughly to ensure the gasket between the seamed flanges is not leaking and the flanges are not deteriorated. Its not uncommon if the flange connections between the converters and exhaust pipes thin and weaken from age and normal wear and tear. Once the flanges weaken, they can create an exhaust leak, either because the heat of the exhaust will burn the gasket out or the connection itself becomes too compromised.

You have two options when the flange connections are compromised. Replace the components with the weak flanges and put a new gasket in between, or cut the flange connections off on both components and "buddy sleeve" and clamp the connection. The latter is a more inexpensive alternative if even applicable, but its a short term solution.

Catalytic Converters

Test the back-flow of the exhaust system by plugging the tailpipe of the Outback. Wear a thick safety glove to protect your hands from exhaust heat. Fully clogged converters will compromise the engine operation, since exhaust systems need to disperse fumes from the exhaust. Partially clogged converters can result from a misfired cylinder or cylinders, a compromised oxygen sensor or the lack of maintaining the vehicle. The Outback employs at least three catalytic converters, depending on the year and model series. Regular tune-ups will assist in the longevity of the converters as well as replacing the oxygen sensors at regular scheduled maintenance intervals.

Aftermarket Aluminzed Exhaust Systems

Aluminized systems will not endure as long as original systems. While stainless steel exhaust systems are available as replacement exhaust components, many people find the price of the systems to be too steep. Inspect your aluminized aftermarket systems annually to determine efficiency and durability. Aluminized systems will have weaker piping connections to the converter or system and deteriorate much quicker than stainless steel systems. Be sure to inspect the flange connections of the systems and the piping extensions.

A car headliner is the fabric which lines the entire roof of the car. Older cars, such as a 1970 Monte Carlo, will eventually succumb to a sagging headliner, causing a distraction to the driver while driving. The primary reason for this sagging is due to the glue which holds the roof and fabric together starting to wear away. Installing a new headliner to replace the sagging one in a 1970 Monte Carlo can be done relatively easy.

Instructions

1

Remove the two pairs of bolts in each corner of the Monte Carlo with a wrench. Removing these bolts will loosen the headliner making it easier to remove.

2

Feed your fingers through the holes that have been opened up from removing the bolts and pull down on the headliner. Pulling with minimal pressure should remove the headliner without ripping or bending the old Monte Carlo headliner. Remove the headliner through the car door once loose.

3

Scrub the exposed roof of the Monte Carlo with sandpaper. Scrubbing the old glue away will make it easier for the new headliner to stick to the roof.

4

Spray a layer of adhesive glue all over the new headliner material. Gently press the new Monte Carlo headliner up against the roof. Push the middle and corners of the new headliner to prevent sagging from happening anytime soon.

5

Trim the rim of the new headliner, if it overlaps on to the windows, with scissors. Screw the bolts back in to the holes in each corner with a wrench. You have finished installing a new headliner in your 1970 Monte Carlo.

The procedure for installing the side mirrors on a 2005 Acura MDX is the same for all first-generation models. The procedure varies slightly between the left and right side mirrors.

Instructions

1

Lower the window completely. Disconnect the clips and hook on the cover of the mirror mount. Detach the cover from the mirror mount by hand, and unplug the electrical connector for the tweeter in the door.

2

Detach the cap from the mirror, and remove the retaining screw with a socket wrench. Pull the inner handle on the mirror forward, and disconnect the rod from the handle. Unplug the electrical connector for the power door lock.

3

Disconnect the clips on the door panel with a trim pad remover. Pull the panel up to remove it from the door. Detach the electrical connector for the speaker in the door.

4

Unplug the wiring harness on the door from the drivers side mirror. Detach the socket for the courtesy light bulb if you are removing the passengers side mirror. Remove the clip for the wiring harness from the passengers door panel.

5

Pull up on the upper seal for the door to access the electrical connector under the seal. Detach the connector in the mirror and its harness clip. Remove the mounting bolts for the mirror with a socket wrench, and push out the clip on the mirror. Remove the mirror from the vehicle.

6

Install the new mirror to its mount, and attach the clip. Fasten the mirror into the mount with the mounting bolts. Attach the electrical connector for the mirror and its harness clip. Connect the electrical connector under the doors upper seal.

7

Connect the wiring harness on the drivers side door to the mirror. Attach the socket for the courtesy light bulb and clip for the wiring harness on the passengers side door panel. Attach the electrical connector for the door speaker, and install the door panel to the door.

8

Plug the electrical connector into the door lock, and connect the inner handle for the door. Fasten the retaining screw for the mirror with a socket wrench, and attach the cap for the mirror. Plug in the electrical connector for the tweeter in the door, and attach the cover for the mirror mount.

The heat applied to a fuel tank seam during tank construction can cause failure along the welded seam. Repairing the broken tank seam will stop fuel from leaking and causing a fire hazard. Welding the cracked seam will permanently seal the seam. Performing the weld safely requires eliminating fire hazards--including fuel fumes remaining in the tank--and using the proper tools to perform the repair.

Instructions

1

Drain the fuel from the plastic tank. Remove the tank from the vehicle.

2

Pour a mixture of dishwashing soap and water into the top of the fuel tank. Slosh the mixture around, then dump the soapy solution from the tank. Repeat the procedure two more times to remove fuel residue and fumes from the tank.

3

Plug in the plastic welding gun. Set the welder to the temperature designated on the heat requirement chart affixed to the welder box. Turn on the welder.

4

Wipe the cracked seam with a clean rag soaked in the soap solution. Rinse the seam with clean water. Allow the seam to dry.

5

Run the point of a triangle file along the cracked seam to create a 1/16 inch V-groove.

6

File the raised edges left by the file from the area with 400-grit sandpaper.

7

Place the tip of the plastic welder on one end of the cracked plastic seam. Push a plastic filler rod into the top socket of the welding tip as you slowly pull the welder along the seam. Pull the plastic welder away from the fuel tank when you reach the opposite end of the cracked seam, leaving the excess filler rod attached to the tank.

8

Cut the excess filler rod from the tank with a pair of wire cutters.

9

Allow the repaired seam to cool before installing the tank back into the vehicle.

You never have to separately register a motorcycle frame in the United States. If you are going into the custom motorcycle frame business you should stamp each frame with a serial number of your own devising and ship the frames with a "Manufacturers Certificate of Origin" stating that number and when and where you built it. Any frame you build will, by definition, be part of a "special construction" motorcycle. All homemade choppers and kit bikes registered in the United States are considered to be "special constructions." Technically, any registered motorcycle with mismatched serial numbers on the frame and the engine is a special construction. The process of registering a special construction generally follows a few steps.

Instructions

1

Register a motorcycle with a headlight with a high and low beam, a horn, a left side mirror, fenders and front and rear directional signals. Register a motorcycle that the laws of your state or province consider to be legally "road worthy."

2

Present a Manufacturers Statement of Origin, or MSO, for your frame, engine and transmission to the Department of Motor Vehicles for the state or province in which you live. Present receipts for and proof that you have paid the local sales tax or you will be charged sales tax for the component parts.

3

Present your custom construction motorcycle to the motor vehicles department or the state police, depending on where you live, for a road worthiness inspection.

4

Insure your motorcycle with a recognized motorcycle insurance carrier in your state or province in order to complete your registration.

Buying used parts is a great way to save money on do-it-yourself car maintenance. They are much cheaper than new parts and can be found in abundance. A good condition used part, like a VW transaxle, can last nearly as long as a new part if used and installed correctly. There are still some things to keep in mind when choosing second-hand items.

Know Your Part

There are lots of different VW models and years, so make sure that you know the specific transaxle you need. Check any documentation that came with your vehicle to get the necessary part information so you can pinpoint the exact part that you need to get.

Look Online

Look online for various ways to get your part. Check auction sites and car enthusiast forums for more information on how to get to your needed part.

Local Solutions

Search locally. Check newspapers and local publications for people selling parts. Shops like Pick-n-Pull exist all across America and specialize in used auto parts. Plus, they require you to remove the part from their original cars and save even more money.

Shop Around

Whether you are looking locally or online, dont stop when youve found a transaxle. Look at other options to ensure that you are getting the best possible price.

Check for Damage

Visually inspect the part for any damage. Check for cracks or dings, as these can impair the effectiveness of the transaxle and shorten its lifespan.

Get Info from the Seller

Ask the person or company selling you the part for information on the history of the transaxle. Ask about how many miles have been put on it and when it was installed. Try to find a part with as little mileage as possible.

Check for Counterfeit Parts

There is a market out there for counterfeit vehicle parts. Make sure that the part you are buying is legitimate. If you are buying online, ask for photos of the parts, including any labels or writing on the transaxle. If youre buying in person, look it over. An easy way to detect a fraudulent part is to look for any typos in any text, logos, packaging or on the part itself.

Warranty

Always be sure to ask the seller if the part comes with a warranty. These arent just limited to new parts. The warranty probably wont be as robust as it would be on a new part, but youll be glad you have it if it comes time to use it.

Installation Procedure

Make sure you know how to install the part before attempting it yourself. Investing in the service manual for your car is a good idea. It will include visual instructions for how to install the transaxle, as well as answer any questions you have about removing the original one.

Ask for Help

Ask someone with experience in car maintenance for tips on how to properly install the transaxle into your VW. It is better to get help before the situation turns serious and the part or your vehicle sustains damage.

The timing belt is a part of the cars engine that controls valve timing. Setting the timing belt is an important aspect of automotive repair and maintenance. Proper synchronization of the engine valves and pistons is vital to proper operation. If the timing belt is set improperly it could lead to larger problems. In some cases, an improperly set timing belt can cause collision between the valve and pistons. This will lead to costly repairs, so it is important to set the timing belt correctly.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery by removing the cable from the negative battery terminal using the appropriate size wrench. Remove all accessory drive belts and brackets that impede access to the timing belt cover.

2

Place wheel chocks against one of the rear wheels to prevent movement, and put the car in park or neutral. This will allow free rotation of the crankshaft.

3

Use a socket and wrench to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft pulley timing mark aligns with the zero degree or top dead center (TDC) mark on the timing cover.

4

Remove the timing belt cover by removing the perimeter bolts. With the crank pulley at TDC, check the camshaft timing mark alignment. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should align directly with the timing mark on the rear timing belt cover. If the camshaft timing marks are not aligned adjustment is necessary.

5

Loosen the tensioner bolt to allow movement of the tensioner pulley. The tensioner will look like a smaller pulley. Caully pry the tensioner pulley away from the belt and retighten the tensioner bolt. This will relieve the tension on the timing belt allowing it to be set.

6

Align the camshaft timing mark using the appropriate wrench. The timing belt should be loose enough to allow turning of the camshaft sprocket without moving the belt. Once aligned, re-seat the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket.

7

Loosen the tensioner bolt allowing the tensioner pulley to tighten the belt. The tensioner is spring loaded and should apply the proper tension needed. Tighten the tensioner bolt.

8

Check the alignment of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks. If aligned properly, turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions, returning the crankshaft to the TDC position. Check all timing marks to make sure the timing belt is set properly.

9

Replace the timing belt cover, accessory belts and reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for proper throttle response and resting idle. If the belt is set properly the engine should run smoothly while idling.

Designed to channel fuel into the engine, intake manifolds are located under the carburetor, on the top of the engine. Chevrolet intake manifolds all look quite similar and must be identified using a series of different casting numbers stamped directly on them.

Number Location

There are two sets of numbers to be aware of: model number and the date of manufacture. Chevrolet manufactured aluminum and cast-iron manifolds, and number location differs on each. Both number sets on cast-iron manifolds are normally located near the carburetor mount. On aluminum models, only the model number appears in that location. Date codes on aluminum manifolds are stamped on the underside, making identification impossible without removal.

Number Identification

The model number code will be seven digits long. Youll have to check it against a list of Chevrolet manifold numbers, as there is no method to the numbering. GM, for General Motors, is usually stamped underneath. The date code will appear as a date, for example, 9.24.66.

Other Considerations

Many Chevrolet manifolds are interchangeable depending on horsepower and other engine specifics. Identification by using casting numbers becomes important, as manifolds may have been replaced with ones from different engines over the years. People searching for manifolds at swap meets and junkyards should have casting number erence lists for positive identification.

The EGR valve, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, is a vacuum-controlled valve which allows exhaust back into the intake manifold in controlled amounts. The EGR valve can clog and get contaminated over time by carbon buildup, at which point it will require replacement. A malfunctioning valve can cause the engine exhaust pressure to drop and send engine warnings to the computer. It can also cause engine back pressure to drop, reducing gas mileage and engine horsepower.

Instructions

1

Locate the EGR valve in the engine bay. The year and make of the Dodge vehicle determine where the valve is located. This is on the front of the engine block, next to the timing belt in model-year 2005 and newer trucks. In older vehicles you will typically find the valve behind the engine, near the firewall.

2

Unclip the exhaust tube from the side of the valve. You can do this by hand. Shift the tube from side to side until it slides off.

3

Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the EGR valve from the exhaust tube. There is a screw on each side of the tube.

4

Disconnect the harness from the EGR valve. Use your hand to pull up on the tab and slide the harness from the valve.

5

Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the two screws that secure the EGR valve to the cylinder head. Remove the EGR valve and clean the surface of the cylinder.

6

Attach the new EGR valve to the cylinder head and tighten it down with the same screws that were previously installed.

7

Reattach the harness and reattach the exhaust tube to the valve. Tighten the two flat-head screws that hold the tube to the valve.

8

Reattach the hose to the valve and use your hand to attach the clip to the hose.

Vibratory tumblers utilize high frequency vibration and abrasive media grit to clean and polish metal parts. The vibrating action combined with rust-cutting grit scrubs corrosion from surfaces of small components without affecting detail or rounding edges. Use of more abrasive media can also remove burrs and flash from newly cast parts and stampings. By adding shine media to the tumbler bowl, tumbled metal objects receive a lective shine. Tumbler defects or inconsistent results can usually be traced to placing an improper component load on the tumbler and bowl or incorrect use of abrasive media.

Instructions

1

Inspect the tumbler bowl for holes or other signs of excessive wear. Make sure you are using wet abrasive media in the bowls of a standard vibratory tumbler. Dry media may prematurely wear out the tumbler bowl.

2

Verify that the tumbled components do not exceed the manufacturers recommended size for the tumbler. Oversize parts may damage the bowl or overload the motor. Also confirm that the correct ratio of 70 percent media to 30 percent parts for a standard vibratory tumbler is observed.

3

Allow additional time in the tumbler if parts are emerging with a dull finish or with incomplete de-burring or smoothing. Continuous running time for these processes ranges from three hours up to 24 hours. Make sure no steps are skipped in the sequence of cleaning parts and adding media to the bowl.

4

Observe proper degreasing methods if the tumbler is leaving excessive rust deposits in recesses of any parts.Try adding a commercially available metal wash for vibratory tumblers to the bowl. Make sure the proper proportion of water is added to the rust cutting media or interrupt tumbling at intervals to remove parts and rinse.

5

Optimize the use of abrasive media. Allow wet media to dry thoroughly before returning it to storage. Reuse cutting media only until it no longer cuts or polishes in an acceptable amount of time.

A timing belt is an important component of your vehicle so replacing it in due time is a top priority. The primary use of a timing belt is to drive the engines camshaft. The engine crankshaft uses a drive sprocket via a timing belt to connect to the larger camshaft so it is necessary to always check if the timing belt is worn out and needed to be replaced. This is one component of your Hyundai Sonata that needs to be replaced entirely when damaged and not just repaired by keeping it together.

Instructions

1

Check the condition of your timing belt by removing the top dust or safety cover of your vehicle. You may need to unscrew a few bolts to gain access to the timing belt. Ensure that your engine is not running when performing this condition check.

2

Use a flashlight to inspect your timing belt for cracks, especially at the drive teeth base. Make sure you check it thoroughly for signs of wear and replace it as soon as possible.

3

Read your car repair manual thoroughly to understand and learn how to remove and replace the timing belt. If you are not confident replacing the timing belt yourself, take it to your auto mechanic shop without delay for immediate replacement.

4

Remove all obstructions from engine front and remove upper and lower timing belt covers to gain access. Then loosen or remove timing belt tensioner to release the timing belt.

5

Remove timing belt and clean all debris from area and utilize a timing belt diagram to time the connection between the crankshaft and the camshaft.

6

Replace timing belt with tensioner, as necessary. Re-install or re-assemble timing belt only if you determine that it is still in good working condition and replacement is not necessary.

Your windshield protects you from debris, keeps the roof from caving in during a rollover and helps keep you from being thrown from the car during an accident. You should replace the windshield on your C3 Corvette if it has any long cracks or chips in it. If you have experience working on cars, and the aid of an assistant, you can do the job yourself. You can purchase almost all the tools and supplies from any auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Unscrew the rear view mirror and slide it out. Set aside.

2

Lift up the wipers and pry them off the car with a large flathead screwdriver positioned between the large nut and the arm. Rock the screwdriver back and forth until the wipers come off. Set them aside.

3

Seal off the vents on the dashboard with masking tape.

4

Cut away the windshields rubber gasket by inserting a knife into the rubber next to the windshield glass from inside the Corvette. Cut all the way around, then push the glass out with your hands or feet while a friend wearing gloves catches it from the outside.

5

Wipe the edge of the windshield opening with a damp cloth. Wipe the sealant off of the replacement gasket. Put the gasket in a sunny place to make it more flexible.

6

Fit the new gasket around the new windshield with the gaskets slit facing outside the vehicle. Run a bead of sealant along the bottom half channel on the gasket.

7

Wipe petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove, applying a little extra to the top center and bottom center. Starting at the bottom center, put the heavy nylon cord around the outer groove. Leave about a foot length on each end hanging out the bottom center.

8

Place the windshield into the windshield opening from outside the Corvette. Make sure the cord ends dangle inside the car.

9

Pull one cord end slowly out and all the way around the frame. This will pull the rubber lip of the gasket into place. Ask your helper to press the gasket onto the outside edge of the vehicle.

10

Reinstall the rear view mirror and wipers. Wait 48 hours before driving the vehicle.

Your Hondas hood is very important in that it keeps your engine from being exposed to the elements as well as affecting the performance and speed of the vehicle. These functions are not possible if the hood latch is not working. A hood latch keeps the vehicles hood shut, which is especially important when you are driving at high speeds. It is important to have a properly working hood latch at all times.

Instructions

1

Pop your hood. With a totally broken latch, you might have to use a flathead screwdriver in between the cars hood and grille to open it.

2

Use a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket to unbolt the hood latch. You should find two bolts on each side of the latch.

3

Take the latch and lift it as high as you can out of the core support. It might not come very far since it is still connected to the cable.

4

Use a screwdriver as a pry bar to remove the cable from the hood. A furrule holds the cable in place at the end of the line. With a small break in the surrounding metal, you can pull it out.

5

Place the cable into the hoods replacement latch in the way it was previously mounted to the radiator support.

Use a 3/8-inch ratchet and sockets to bolt the new hood latch into the core support. You will want to close the hood and then test the pull.

A fuel-injected engine uses many different sensors to determine how to make your engine run properly. The 1987 and newer GM trucks use one or more oxygen sensors located along the exhaust. Theyre not difficult to replace, but they can take some elbow grease and some basic safety equipment to do properly.

Instructions

Lift the Truck

1

First, make sure the vehicle is turned off, has cooled down for a few hours and the emergency brake is set. Using a jack, lift the front of the truck so that the front tires are off the ground. A good jack point is the front crossmember, or alternatively, the sides of the frame below the doors.

2

With the truck properly supported, slide underneath the vehicle and look for the O2 sensor. Depending on the year of the truck, there will be just one sensor located on the passenger side near the transmission, or several sensors on the later models, located both before and after the catalytic converters. Theyre easy to spot, as they stick out about 2 inches from the exhaust tubing and have two wires coming out from the body.

3

Unplug the harness that connects the O2 sensor to the stock wiring. If the clip that holds the harness together is difficult to disconnect, use a small flathead screwdriver to pop it free.

4

Using an O2 sensor socket or an appropriately sized wrench, loosen and remove the old O2 sensor. It unthreads like any other bolt would, going to the left to loosen. Should the sensor be stuck in the threads, loosen them with some WD-40 or similar product. Should the sensor still not come loose, the bung can be cut out of the exhaust, but it will have to be welded back into place by a professional, and should only be done as a last resort.

5

Before installing the replacement O2 sensor, put some anti-seize compound around the threaded area of the sensor. This will help you the next time you have to replace the sensor, as the heat of the exhaust wont cause the threads to seize up on you.

6

To reinstall, thread the O2 sensor into the bung on the exhaust, reconnect the wiring and lower the truck off of the jackstands.

Water leaking from the exhaust pipe of a car is caused by the catalytic converter and the condensation of water vapor, according to autoupkeep.com. This is normal and nothing to worry about.

Combustion

The combustion of gasoline produces carbon dioxide and water vapor, according to chemistryland.com. Oxygen reacts with hydrogen in gasoline to produce water vapor, which exits the engine through the exhaust manifold.

Exhaust System

The exhaust, which includes carbon monoxide, nitrous carbon dioxide, water vapor and unburned gasoline are processed by the catalytic converter, which changes the gasoline to more carbon dioxide and water and directs them into the muffler.

Other Facts

In hot weather, the water vapor is less likely to condense and drain, but in cold weather, water vapor will do exactly that and drip from the tailpipe. Over time, water in the exhaust system can cause corrosion.

A solid connection between the distributor and the spark plugs ensures your vehicle runs correctly. When a spark plug connector becomes loose or receives damage, the spark plug emits a weak spark. This causes the fuel/air mixture inside the engine combustion chamber to partially ignite, wasting fuel and reducing the amount of power generated by the engine. Tightening the crimp on a loose spark plug connector keeps the spark plug firing normally, increasing the power and fuel economy of your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Apply the vehicle parking brake. Pull the hood release to open the hood.

2

Pull the loose spark plug wire off the spark plug and the distributor cap with your hands.

3

Push the boot covering the spark plug connector back onto the spark plug wire to expose the connector.

4

Place a spark plug crimper around the loosened connector with the far end of the crimper sitting even with the end of the connector closest to the spark plug wire. Set the crimper in the jaws of a bench mounted vise.

5

Turn the handle of the bench mounted vise clockwise to force the jaws of the crimper against the spark plug connector. Turn the handle counterclockwise until the crimper releases from the vise jaws. Remove the crimper from the spark plug wire.

6

Push the boot back over the tightened connector. Attach the spark plug wire onto the spark plug and the connector located on the distributor cap.

If your old car or truck seems to have a mind of its own as you drive down the road and the steering wheel chatters with every bump, you may need a new pitman arm.

Function

The pitman arm, also called steering arm, links the steering box at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft to the track rod which is attached at the other end to the idler arm. When the steering wheel is turned left or right, a worm gear at the bottom of the steering shaft turns a set of teeth. That action moves a gear that activates the pitman arm, causing the steering linkage to move the wheels.

Types

The steering arm is part of an older recirculating ball steering system which is still used primarily in some full-size SUVs and trucks as compared with the smoother-handling rack and pinion steering mechanism more commonly used in automobiles.

Benefits

A properly functioning pitman arm precisely directs the movement of all the other steering links, limits wheel wobble on bumpy surfaces, assures full wheel turning radius and helps to reduce steering wheel vibration.

The Dodge Caravan is a minivan that uses 3.8L of oil. If you are having problems starting your Dodge Caravan, you need to check out two issues: the battery and the fuel level. The battery on the Caravan is used to start the engine, however, the engine cannot run without fuel. Checking the battery life and the fuel on your Caravan will determine if replacement parts are needed. You dont have to be an auto mechanic to solve your problem. You can do it yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Dodge Caravan and locate the battery. This should be on the right side of the motor.

2

Look the battery terminals over for any corrosion. Loosen the battery terminals with a socket wrench and then remove the terminals from the battery.

3

Use a wire brush and soda to remove the corrosion from the battery terminals. Connect the terminals back onto the battery and then try to start the van.

4

Jump start the van with jumper cables and another car battery if needed.

5

Allow the van to run for 15 minutes and then turn the van off. Try to restart the van. If the van doesnt restart then the battery is not holding a charge. Replace the battery.

6

Check the fuel level. Add 1 gallon of gas to your Dodge Caravan and then try to start the van. If the van starts up, replace the gas gauge in the van.

A car jack is a necessary item to keep in a vehicle in case of an emergency, such as a flat tire. Jacks are available in a variety of styles and sizes, however, and can be utilized for vehicle tune-ups, body work and mechanics. For optimum safety, follow instructions and do not deviate from the guidelines for each car jack.

Scissor Jack

Most car manufacturers provide the scissor jack in the trunk of the vehicle. Specific to the car, the jacks platform design fits the auto body or at the axle of the car. The user cranks the scissor jack, which tightens the two ends of the center screw bar that, in turn, forces the arms to straighten. This scissor mechanism lifts the car slowly and easily. The jack is small, simple to use, and can lift a car in emergency situations, such as changing a flat tire or wheel.

Trolley Floor Jack

A trolley jack is a small, hydraulic mechanism that can be wheeled around and underneath the vehicle. This type allows you to work underneath the vehicle, for example, to change the oil. Pump the handle of the trolley jack and the fluid pressure builds within the liquid chamber of the jack. The pressure escapes through the top of the jack platform and the vehicle raises with little effort. Trolley jacks, common in auto body and mechanic shops, are accompanied by axle stands, which support the weight of the car in case the vehicle falls. They can lift weights up to 4 tons, according to I Need to Know.

Hi Lift Jack

A Hi-Lift Jack is versatile and strong, and can lift a vehicle much higher than a standard scissor or trolley jack. Farm workers use these jacks for vehicles that need a tire or wheel change, are stuck in deep mud, or need to be moved sideways or lifted on one end. The Hi-Lift Jack can lift up to 7,000 pounds and to a height of nearly 60 inches, which is the height of the jack itself, according to Off-Road Adventures.