For U Solution

While battery terminal covers arent strictly necessary, many new vehicles use them to prevent short-circuiting or arcing against the car body. Battery terminal covers can be plastic, rubber or any kind of synthetic polymer that can seal the terminals against water and incidental electrical contact.

Electrical Safety

The battery terminal covers primary task is to protect against accidental contact by metal components or unwary mechanics. The negative battery terminal is grounded to the body, so accidental contact will not generally result in an electrical reaction. The positive terminal is another matter; if you complete a circuit with the positive terminal, potentially deadly current will flow through the metal tool, hand or forearm that bridged the gap. This can be especially crucial for newer cars, which may have very little clearance between the terminal and the hood, which is near enough that under certain conditions, the battery may arc to the underside of the hood, burning the paint off and damaging the battery.

Sealing and Corrosion Resistance

Although the lead battery posts and brass terminals are fairly resistant to normal moisture-induced corrosion, theyre not immune to it. Lead easily dissolves in the presence of nitric acid, which is a component of acid rain and results from a combination of vehicle and industrial emissions. Normal atmosphere always contains a little bit of nitric oxide, which turns into nitric acid when it mixes with water. Battery terminal covers are critical for keeping the terminals free of water, which may convert to nitric acid and corrode the lead battery post if the car happens to be in a high-smog environment. A battery terminal cover doesnt need to completely seal the terminal; keeping water off will suffice to prevent corrosion.

Explosion Prevention

Almost all batteries produce hydrogen while recharging, which can be a serious problem, since many vehicles incorporate the battery as a link in the electrical system. Such vehicles are always pulling power from the battery, so the alternator must constantly recharge it. Hydrogen gas buildup isnt normally a problem, but explosions are possible. Battery terminal covers prevent arcing and deny the gas a source of ignition, making electrical insulation doubly important.

Color Coding

If youve ever had to jump-start a car in the dark, then you know how difficult it can be to identify the positive and negative terminals if they arent color-coded. While the battery itself will carry a stamping or sticker to indicate the positive and negative terminals, these will do little good in the dark. Bright red or yellow positive battery terminal covers are far more apparent in low light conditions than any marking on the battery itself, and help to prevent a possibly expensive mistake.

Disassembling a Harley-Davidson fairing involves a few tools, your least favorite flannel shirt, a small square of thick cardboard and about two hours of your time. The fairing should be thought of as two parts--the outer fairing, which always faces your destination, and the inner fairing, which always faces you.

Instructions

1

Fold a flannel shirt over your front fender to preserve the paint and the chrome.

2

Remove seven screws with a Torx driver--the three screws just under the windshield on the outer fairing, and the two screws above each wind deflector on the left and right side of the inner fairing.

3

Turn the handlebar all the way left to access the fairing screw under the right fairing cap, and all the way right to access the fairing screw under the left fairing cap. Remove both screws with a Torx socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

4

Straddle the front fender and gently pull the outer fairing toward you. Squeeze together both sides of the clip on the back of the head light assembly with your fingers. Lift the fairing first, then the windshield off the front of the motorcycle.

5

Disconnect the turn signal and high-low beam connectors from the front wiring harness. Loosen and remove the passing lamp bracket from the fork brackets with a Torx socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

6

Put the key in the ignition, switch the key to "unlock" and rotate the ignition assembly knob to "access."

7

Release the ignition knob by depressing the ignition knob release tab with a flat-head screwdriver and turning the key counterclockwise. Pull the knob up and set aside.

8

Loosen then remove the switch nut hardware from the threaded switch nut stud with a socket wrench, socket extension and an open-end socket. Pull the chrome inner fairing trim from the inner fairing.

9

Unlock the clutch cable adjuster locknut from the clutch cable adjuster nut with two combination wrenches. Spin the clutch cable adjuster nut with your fingers until the clutch cable is completely slack.

10

Remove clutch hand-control pivot pin retaining ring on the bottom of the clutch hand-control bracket and the hand-control pivot pin with a flat-head screwdriver. Unbolt the clutch hand-control bracket from the left handlebar with a Torx socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

11

Unhook the clutch cable from the hand control and remove the anchor pin. Push the clutch cable through the clutch cable grommet from the inner fairing to the front of the motorcycle.

12

Stick a 1/8-inch-thick square of cardboard between the front-brake hand control and the front-brake hand-control bracket to protect the small, mechanical components of the brake-light relay inside the front brake hand-control bracket.

13

Remove the right handlebar switch housing and rear brake master cylinder with a Torx driver.

14

Pry the throttle from the end of the handlebar with a screwdriver and unhook the two throttle cables from the throttle. Push the throttle cables through the throttle cables grommet from the inner fairing to the front of the motorcycle.

15

Unplug the cigarette lighter quick-connect from the front wiring harness. Disconnect the speaker adapters on both sides of the inner fairing with a socket wrench, Torx socket and socket extension.

16

Disconnect the fuel gauge and voltmeter from the front wiring harness. Loosen and remove the four socket head screws that join the fairing bracket and the inner fairing with a Torx socket, socket extension and socket wrench.

17

Pry and lift both the inner fairing and the fairing bracket off the fairing bracket mounting pins. Pry the fairing bracket and inner fairing apart, and remove the inner fairing.

Wire wheels have significantly evolved since their first commercially-successful use on bicycles more than a century ago. Wire wheels are now widely used on many types of bikes, motorcycles, and automobiles, including race cars. They are typically made with standard hub bolt patterns covered by a center cap, so that they can fit without adapters. Wire wheel rims are connected to their hubs using wire spokes. They function similarly to tensioned flexible wires to keep the rim stable.

Lead Hammer

A lead hammer is one of the popular soft-faced hammers used in wheel changing tool kits for wire wheel equipped cars. It is an alternative to a copper hammer and is essential to striking chromed nuts without the risk of destroying them.

Typically made from lead and antimony alloy, this tool retains leads ability to strike an almost dead blow without inflicting harsh damage upon the struck surface. This makes it an ideal hammer for undoing or tightening chromed brass spinners and other materials made of copper, bronze, aluminum and plastic.

Wire Brush

A wire brush is used for general purpose surface cleaning, rust removal and conditioning of wire wheels. This tool consists of a handle, usually made of wood or plastic, and a brush made from a large number of brass or steel wire bristles. These bristles are generally made of a high-carbon metal and held together by epoxy, staples or continuous wire. For specifically cleaning stainless steel materials, a stainless steel bristle wire brush is used to avoid rusting.

Two-Eared Steel Spinner Remover

A two-eared steel spinner remover utilizes a long handle that enables easier spinner removal and replacement. Guarding against accidental over-tightening or under-tightening of spinners, the length of this tools handle is primarily designed to provide correct leverage when used. Using a steel spinner remover provides good gripping action to keep the tool secured during use on wire wheels. It also avoids damage to the spinners every time a wheel is changed.

When driving a Chinese scooter at night, the greatest tool you have for indicating your presence is your headlight. Because scooters are so small, you would be all but invisible if not for the solitary headlight. Changing the headlight requires different steps on different types of scooters. You either have to replace the bulb by unscrewing or unlatching the protective plastic covering, or by unscrewing and removing the entire headlight compartment.

Instructions

Plastic Headlight Protector With Screws

1

Unscrew the screws anchoring the plastic headlight protector onto the body of the scooter. There will be two to six screws, and they will be located around the perimeter of the scooters headlight.

2

Remove the outer plastic headlight protector by caully popping it out of its plastic moorings.

3

Unscrew the old bulb and replace it with your new bulb.

4

Reattach the outer plastic headlight protector and rescrew the anchoring screws.

Plastic Headlight Protector With Clips

5

Remove the outer plastic headlight protector by unlatching the plastic clips that hold it into place.

6

Unscrew the old bulb and replace it with your new bulb.

7

Reattach the outer plastic headlight protector by latching the plastic clips that hold it into place.

Replacing the Bulb Compartment

8

Unscrew the anchoring screws holding the entire headlight compartment using a hex or standard screwdriver.

9

Remove the entire headlight compartment by gently pulling it free from the body of the scooter. The back of the compartment will be connected to the electrical systems of the scooter through either a plug or a series of wires which you will need to disconnect.

10

Insert the replacement headlight compartment and anchor it to the body by rescrewing the anchoring screws.

The Chrysler 3.3 engine has been used in a variety of automobiles, from vans to trucks and small passenger vehicles. Its accompanying fuel system has been improved several times over the years and can vary greatly depending on the particular vehicle. With these differences in mind, there are several fuel components that remain the same in all vehicle types, providing the 3.3 engine with power and performance.

Fuel Injection System

When the 3.3 engine was first introduced in 1990, it featured a fuel injection system. This improved acceleration and engine performance in the Chrysler Town & Country, the Dodge Caravan, Chrysler New Yorker and Chrysler Imperial. The fuel injection system includes a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel sensors and an engine control module. Fuel injection eliminates the need for a carburetor in the Chrysler 3.3 s fuel system.

Improved Intake System

Improved fuel intake goes along with the fuel injection system, which increased the Chrysler 3.3s horsepower. A variable intake system was implemented in 2001 which further increased horsepower and torque. This system functions by varying the length of the intake tract which can also improve fuel economy. Gas mileage is particularly important for family vehicles which may end up on the lower end of miles per gallon ratings, such as minivans.

Fuel Tank and Filters

The type of gas tank in the Chrysler 3.3 engine depends on the model of vehicle. For larger Chrysler vehicles, such as minivans, the gas tank size can be as large as 20 gallons. With smaller models, like the Chrysler Concorde, fuel tanks top out at 17 gallons. Each gas tank has fuel lines which feed into the vehicles fuel injection system, along with fuel filters to keep debris and other large particles from entering the engine and causing damage.

Rack and pinion steering has a number of advantages over a steering box, including more precision and fewer moving parts. This makes the steering system more responsive, according to "Rod & Custom" magazine. For those looking to become gear heads, shopping around for parts or just curious what goes on inside their car, knowing the rack and pinion steering components is worthwhile.

Rack

The rack is the part of the steering system that everything else revolves around. This is a flat piece of metal with gear notches in it. Racks come in both manual and power types, meaning that you can do all the steering yourself or get assistance from a power steering system. The rack is connected to the wheels and provides the motion that causes your car to steer where you want it to.

Pinion

The pinion is a circular piece of metal with gear notches in it. These notches meet up with the notches in the rack, converting circular motion into linear motion to make steering easier. A piston moves the pinion, which is connected to the rest of the car with tie rods. The pinion is connected directly to the steering column.

Power Cylinder

Rack and pinion systems with power steering come equipped with additional components that traditional systems do not. The main component of the power steering system is the power cylinder that provides the "power" from which the system takes its name. A series of seals surrounds the cylinder to keep it isolated from the rest of the cars engine.

Bellows

The rack and pinion system is separated from the rest of the car by rubber bellows. There are two rubber bellows, one on either end of the mechanism. These keep the rack and pinion clean. They also keep the grease-based lubricant, necessary for proper operation of the system, intact in the system.

Tie Rods

The tie rods keep the rack and piston mechanism connected to the rest of your car. They also allow the mechanism to make the necessary moves relative to the rest of your car. A loose tie rod will result in a "loose" feeling to your steering.

Ball Joint and Socket

The ball joint and socket connect the tie rod to the rest of the steering mechanism. They also allow for minor changes in the suspension of your car that allows you to steer properly. Without this component of the rack and pinion system it would be impossible to make slight turns.

Despite being a performance-oriented car, with one of the most powerful engines available in a domestically manufactured sedan, the Chrysler 300C has a bevy of transmission-related problems. They range in seriousness from excessive vibration to the entire car switching off in mid-cruise. Chrysler dealerships havent always had the best reputation for fixing problems under warranty, so it is probably worth thinking twice before buying a fully loaded, HEMI- equipped version of this automakers flagship sedan.

Water Seepage

Due to the enormous size (5.7 liter displacement) of the 300Cs engine, the air conditioning condenser and transmission are in close proximity under the hood. This means that a perfect storm of quick temperature changes and heavy a/c usage can lead to water vapors contaminating the transmission fluid. This is a serious problem that may require a replacement transmission. Unfortunately, the 300C does not have a dipstick to check transmission fluid.

Rough Shifting

Some 300C owners have complained of the car not being able to shift out of park, shifting into neutral inexplicably on the freeway or not shifting beyond second gear. Some drivers report their 300C wont even shift out of park. This problem can usually be solved by replacing a small plastic clip inside the shifter assembly.

Transmission Fluid Leak

One owner of a 2005 300C inspects the underside of the car every 3000 miles because of transmission fluid leaking onto the ground. It is also sealed shut so you cannot add replacement transmission fluid. If this leaking continues without being fixed, it can lead to the transmission shifting out of the appropriate gear at random.

Removing the transmission oil pan from the bottom of the transmission in your Jeep Cherokee is the only way to access the filter inside or drain the oil from the transmission. The pan is located in the center of the transmission, directly on the bottom, ssecured with bolts around the perimeter. Removal can be messy if you are not caul. Work slowly and take it one step at a time.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Jeep off the ground with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front suspension, and remove the jack.

2

Slide under the center of your Jeep and locate the transmission oil pan on the bottom of the transmission. Place a large oil drain pan under the transmission pan to catch the oil when you remove it.

3

Loosen the bolts around three edges of the transmission pan with a socket and ratchet, but do not completely remove them. Slowly loosen the bolts on the remaining edge of the pan, allowing the opposite side of the pan to come away from the transmission. Drain the oil into the drain pan.

4

Remove all the bolts around the edge of the pan slowly, and then lower it away from the transmission. Leave the drip pan under the transmission for a while, allowing any oil or fluid to fully drain.

Ford began producing an eight-cylinder 6.0-liter diesel engine in 2003 that appeared in heavy Ford trucks until 2008. This is a diesel engine with fuel injection that is typically turbocharged. It is most common in Ford Super Duty trucks, and is the standard engine in the 2007 Ford F350 Super Duty with four-wheel drive. The fuel injectors for this engine are part of the fuel rail assembly, which you must remove to replace the fuel injectors.

Instructions

1

Remove the mounting bolts for the valve cover with a socket wrench and disconnect the valve cover. Unplug the wiring harnesses from the fuel injectors, and disconnect the crankcase-to-head tube assembly from the engine.

2

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil rail with a socket wrench and disconnect the oil rail. Push the electrical connector for the fuel injector out of the rocker arm carrier with a small pry tool. Plug the oil drain holes next to the glow plugs with clean shop rags.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolt for the fuel injector with a socket wrench and release the hold-down clamp on the fuel injector. Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail with a Snap-On SDMT440 Torx tool so that you dont damage the fuel injectors plastic housing. Remove the shop rags from the oil drain holes. Discard the O-rings and copper washers on the fuel injectors.

4

Mount the new O-rings and copper washers on the fuel injectors. Lubricate the fuel injectors with engine oil and install the fuel injectors to the fuel rail. Attach the hold-down clamps for the fuel injectors and tighten the mounting bolt 24 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the electrical connector to the rocker arm carrier and coat the upper O-rings on the fuel injectors with engine oil.

5

Place the oil rail on the fuel injectors so that the single ball tubes on the oil rail engage the lead angle of the fuel injectors. Insert a guide bolt into each end of the oil rail and a guide bolt in the middle of the oil rail to temporarily hold it in place. Push the oil rail into the fuel injectors so the mounting feet of the oil rail are flush with their mounting surface on the engine block. Install mounting bolts for the oil rail into the six available holes and replace the three guide bolts with mounting bolts. Tighten the nine mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors and install the valve covers.

Every race car driver and truck driver hauling loads wants reliable and optimal performance when it is needed the most. Roller lifters have been used under the hood to reduce friction and increase power output. There are three main styles of roller lifters to choose from. You may already have a roller lifter installed in your vehicle that you want to replace or you may want to upgrade for better performance.

Definition

You will find roller lifters within the engines of some vehicles. A roller lifter is a valve lifter that has a metal roller attached at one end. The roller end makes contact with the camshaft, reducing friction between the camshaft lobe and lifter.

Construction

You can locate a lifter on the top of each camshaft lobe. These have a cylinder shape that is made out of metal. Each lifter will have a pushrod on the upper section of its metal body. The lifter rises, causing the pushrod to rise to actuate the adjacent rocker arm. This motion then opens up the cylinder head valve.

Application

Lifters convert the energy made by the camshaft lobes into useful energy for the engine. Roller lifters produce less friction and have a longer lifespan than regular flat lifters. Less friction will give you more engine power, thus making it a good choice for engines that need an extra boost of energy and power. These lifters are often found under the hoods of small scale race cars that need reliable engine performance.

Types of Lifters

You will find a few different types of lifters. You will find mechanical roller lifters, hydraulic roller lifters and retrofit hydraulic roller lifters as the most frequently implemented lifters. The mechanical roller lifters are usually found in street or mild competition applications. Hydraulic roller lifters are used with standard factory alignment bars where hydraulic roller lifters came factory equipped. Retrofit hydraulic rollers are specially designed for fort engines and small block engines. These have vertical alignment bars.

Lincoln vehicles have a self-leveling suspension system that uses air pressure to ensure each corner of the vehicle sits in the proper position. When an air line -- another component of a Lincoln air suspension system -- becomes damaged, You must remove and replace it to keep the suspension working correctly. The air line connections used by Lincoln employ a quick-release system that uses a ring and a brass fitting to secure the air line to the shocks, solenoid and pump providing air for the system.

Instructions

1

Move the Lincoln to a hard, level work surface. Set the parking brake. Open the trunk, and locate the air suspension switch. Turn the switch to the "Off" position.

2

Set one wheel chock in front of each of the vehicles front tires. Set a floor jack at an approved lifting point at the back of the vehicle. Pump the floor jack to raise the rear tires of the Lincoln off the ground. Place one jack stand under the frames, directly in front of each rear tire. Lift and support the front of the vehicle.

3

Clean the connecting point between an air line and another component of the air suspension system by wiping around the air line with a clean rag.

4

Push the red or orange collar -- sitting at the point the air line meets the suspension component -- toward the connection. Pull the air line away from the connection. Repeat the process to disconnect the other end of the air line from the suspension.

The Mazda MPV is a minivan produced by Mazda since 1989. Rear-wheel drive was standard on the 1991 model, but a 4x4 version was also available. The term "4x4" in this context indicates that the vehicle has four wheels that receive power from the drivetrain independently. The water pump in a 1991 Mazda MPV attaches to the front of the engine block and its replacement requires the removal of several additional components.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and remove the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Allow the engine to stall and turn the ignition off. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.

2

Remove the cable to the negative battery with a socket wrench to prevent the battery from causing sparks. Disconnect the air cleaner assembly.

3

Place a sealable container under the radiator drain and open the radiator drain cock. Allow the coolant to drain into the container and replace the drain cock. Seal the container of coolant for later use.

4

Disconnect the electrical wires to the spark plugs. Remove the air duct assembly, cooling fan, and cowling for the radiator with a socket wrench. Disconnect the drive belts and the pulley for the air-conditioner idler.

5

Disconnect the baffle plate for the crankshaft pulley and remove the pulley with a socket wrench. Detach the coolant bypass hose and the upper hose for the radiator. Remove the retaining bolts for the timing belt cover, and remove the timing belt cover.

6

Disconnect the upper idler pulley with a socket wrench and mark the direction of rotation on the timing belt so that you can install it correctly later. Remove the timing belt and the tensioner for the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench. Remove the water pump from the engine block and discard the gasket for the water pump. Clean the mating surfaces for the gasket with a clean shop towel. Coat the new gasket with sealer and place it into position. Install the new water pump onto the engine and tighten the mounting bolts to between 14 and 19 ft.-lbs. with a torque wrench.

8

Complete the water pump installation by performing steps 2 through 7 in reverse order. Fill the radiator with coolant and connect the air cleaner assembly with a socket wrench. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix has painted side mirrors to match the paint color of the vehicle. Aftermarket replacement mirrors often come with a black finish. These mirrors can be painted to closely match the color of the car or they can be left in black finish. While aftermarket direct-fit mirrors are much more affordable than OEM equipment from the dealership, if matching the color of the mirrors is important, buying the mirror from the dealership would be a better option.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door and power the window down. Remove the key from the ignition.

2

Fit the angled pry tool under the bottom of the window control module on the arm rest assembly. Pry off the module.

3

Unplug the four wire harness connections attached to the underside of the control module. The plugs are color coded and only fit in their respective outlets, so keeping track of which one goes where for reassembly is not required.

4

Pry off the two plastic beauty caps from underneath the arm rest assembly with the pry tool to reveal the door panel retaining screws. Remove the screws with the Phillips screwdriver.

5

Remove the interior door lector from the inner housing of the lector with the pry tool.

6

Pry off the small speaker cover on top of the door panel opposite the side mirror.

7

Move the door panel away from the door frame with the pry tool. Start at the bottom and work up each side to release the snap pins from the underside of the panel. Lift the door panel slightly to remove the upper lip from the door frame. Reach behind the panel to disconnect the speaker wire harness plug. Set the door panel aside.

8

Disconnect the mirror wire harness plug.

9

Remove the three retaining nuts of the mirror with the 10-mm nut driver. The mirror may stick to the door from the original gasket, but brace one hand under it when removing the last nut in case it doesnt. This will prevent the original mirror from scratching the exterior paint on the door.

10

Install the new mirror. Replace the retaining nuts and attach the mirror harness plugs together. Reattach the speaker cover, lower speaker wire and door panel assembly by reversing the removal procedure. Reattach the door lector and plug the harnesses back into the window control module before snapping the module back into place.

11

Replace the two door panel retaining screws. Snap the beauty caps back into place below the arm rest assembly.

Owners of vehicles that are getting high in mileage--over 90,000 miles--or with vehicles in a location that experiences extremely cold winters may choose to change their vehicles oil weight to prolong the life of the engine and improve protection of the vehicle. Changing the oil weight should wait until the next oil change, when the old oil is drained from the vehicles engine, regardless of whether doing the oil change at home or at a service station.

Instructions

1

Consult the owners manual for the specific vehicle. The last page usually shows the type of oil recommended by the manufacturer, including recommendations for changing to different oil in the winter or for high-mileage and the amount needed for each oil change. Consulting with a mechanic who usually services the vehicle will prove equally beneficial, particularly because the mechanic will know the region and typical weather and temperature patterns.

2

Turn the vehicle on and look at the dashboard behind the steering wheel where the various gauges are located. Locate the odometer, which keeps a record of the number of miles the vehicles has traveled in its lifetime. This will give an idea of whether the engine requires a high-mileage oil, for example if the odometer reads more than 90,000 miles. For vehicles with less than 90,000 miles that have been properly maintained with regular services, a standard weight year-round oil recommended by the manufacturer is acceptable.

3

Assess the region in which the vehicle is used for possible weather-related needs. If the winters are extremely cold--below -20 degrees--changing the oil in autumn, just before the winter, can help preserve the engine and keep the vehicle running smoothly. This can also reduce cold-related noises the vehicle may produce. Likewise, if the summers are excessively hot, switching to an oil that does not thin out as much when hot will help preserve the engine and keep the vehicle running well.

Chevrolet introduced the Impala in 1958. This Impala was offered in three trims -- the entry-level LS, the mid-grade LT and the fully loaded LTZ. The LS and LT were equipped with a 3.5-liter engine, while the LTZ was fitted with a 3.9-liter engine. When searching for timing specs for a vehicle, it is important to search by the model, model year and trim rather than just the model. Timing specs change from year to year, and different trims of a model might come with different engines, as is the case with the 2010 Impala. Manufacturers began introducing computerized, distributor-less ignition systems in the 1980s and those systems are universal today. As a result, the timing is not adjustable on newer vehicles.

Firing Order

An engines firing order is the order in which the spark plugs fire to ignite a small explosion in the combustion chamber. In engines with a distributor, the firing order is determined by the order of the wires connecting the spark plugs to the distributor. In newer engines with Electronic Control Units (ECU), such as those found in the 2010 Impala, the ECU controls the firing order. The firing order for the 2010 Impala is 1-2-3-4-5-6, regardless of which V-6 engine it comes with. The firing order cannot be adjusted without replacing the ECU.

Top Dead Center

In ignition systems with distributors, the distributor can be adjusted so that all spark plugs fire when their corresponding piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) or even slightly Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) to allow a few milliseconds for the fuel-oil mixture to ignite upon entering the pistons combustion chamber. The timing can be adjusted by turning the rotor and cap in the distributor by a few degrees. In newer cars, however, the timing is completely controlled by the ECU and the Ignition Control Unit (ICU). These are components of the on-board computer system and cannot be adjusted.

Timing Mark

On traditional combustion engines with distributors, the timing mark on the distributor pulley shows where to set the timing so that it corresponds to the manufacturers original setting. However, in vehicles with distributor-less ignitions, the mark is not adjustable. The 2010 Impala comes with a crankshaft position sensor that signals the computer system, which then adjusts the timing based on the vehicles rpm output.

The catalytic converter in the Ford Escape is the part of the exhaust system, which changes or converts harmful chemicals, such as hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide, into cleaner less harmful emissions. Sensor monitor how efficiently these chemicals are converter and when a catalytic converter has problems, the engine in the Ford Escape will not work at its highest performance.

Catalytic Converter Clogs

The Ford Escape has many reports about the catalytic converter clogging. The catalytic converter is honeycomb-shaped and can melt when overheated. This honeycomb generally runs at a temperature of 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit and when the harmful chemicals begin to build-up in the catalytic converter, the operating temperature increases. When the operating temperature increases in the catalytic converter, the materials which make up the honeycomb shape of the converter begin to melt causing the converter to clog. This clogging does not allow exhaust to be converted and backs up into the engine causing it to stall or choke the engine. The catalytic converter in the Ford Escape must be replaced to correct this problem.

Catalytic Converter Leaks

The catalytic converter has reports about a loud noise developing under the Ford Escape. This loud noise is attributed to the catalytic converter leaking from around the seals or connections. The exhaust system has several connection points which is attached together with gaskets, bolts and nuts. As road debris and pollutants build-up on these connections, the connection begin to deteriorate and fail causing a leak in the exhaust system. This leak creates a loud noise when operating the Ford Escape. The Escape owner must inspect the exhaust system, particularly around the catalytic converter connection, to determine if there is a leak in the exhaust system and replace the gasket or damaged connections in order to correct this problem.

O2 Sensor Failure

One of the most common problems with the catalytic converter in the Ford Escape is an O2 sensor failure. The O2 sensor monitors the performance of the catalytic converter and forwards this information to the Escapes computer system. When the O2 sensor fails, the engine in the Escape will begin to stall, misfire, choke or jerk during acceleration. Replacing the O2 sensor corrects this problem, but the sensor may not last long because the catalytic converter can be the source of the O2 sensor failure. The catalytic converter can fail to convert the harmful chemical over time because of a breakdown or worn filtering system. The catalytic converter must be replaced when this problem develops on the Ford Escape.

You are driving along, no worries in the world, and suddenly there is a strange noise coming from under the hood. You open the hood and stare at the engine, without any idea where the noise is coming from and want to figure out what the noise means. Engine noises need not be frightening. Sometimes they do indicate a serious problem, but before calling a roadside mechanic for an expensive repair, there are a few troubleshooting options you can run through on your own.

Instructions

1

Check the level of oil in the vehicle if you hear a tapping or clicking sound coming from the engine. If the oil is low, bring the level up to normal. Check the oil filter for excessive clogging and replace if necessary.

2

Check the timing belt if you hear a rattling sound coming from the engine. Take off the timing belt cover and inspect the components with a flashlight for any parts failure. Make sure that the belt is secure. If it is damaged, have it replaced.

3

Check for air in the brake system if you hear a popping of bubbling sound from the engine. Make sure there is enough brake fluid in the cylinder. Fill the cylinder if the fluid is low. Air can get into the system if the fluid is too low. Check the hoses and brake system for any holes or leaks.

4

Check for worn rod bearings if you hear a deep knocking sound coming from the engine. If this is the case, you may need to have your engine rebuilt or replaced.

5

Check the starter motor if you hear a scraping sound coming from the engine. The starter motor cranks the engine and there is a sound associated with this, however if the scraping noise continues after the engine is running, it could mean that the starter motor has failed and may have to be replaced.

6

Check the magnetic clutch on the a/c compressor if you hear a scraping sound. Turn the air conditioner on and listen for the magnetic clutch to engage. If you hear a scraping sound connected to turning the a/c on, it could mean that the compressor needs to be replaced. Check to see if the scraping sound stops when you turn the a/c off. This should alert you to whether or not it is actually the a/c compressor that is the problem.

7

Check the radiator coolant level if you hear a popping sound coming from the engine. Never open the radiator cap when it is hot. Wait for the engine to cool before filling the radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Make sure the coolant reservoir tank is filled as well. Check for any hoses that are pinched of damaged. Replace the radiator cap if necessary.

There are many situations or tasks that are made simpler just by having a truck winch at your disposal. Winches provide pulling assistance for tasks that normally would require more manpower and time. There are two types of winches -- electric and hydraulic. Both assemblies have their pros and cons. Electric-powered winches are more commonly used, because of their ease of installation and variety of sizes for different trucks, while hydraulic winch assemblies are used more on industrial vehicles, because they are heavier and can be used while the vehicles engine is not running.

Instructions

1

Expel the line, cord or cable from your winch. Keep the line taut by pulling on it as it exits the winch. This prevents jamming up the winch with the excess line.

2

Make sure your winch is rated for the type of pulling you will be doing. Typically, winches rated for 2,000 to 6,000 lbs. are for small to medium vehicles, while 7,000 to 9,000 lbs. are for heavier items such as full-sized cars and trucks.

3

Attach the winch hook securely to the center of mass, or the strongest point on your item being towed. If using your winch to get yourself out of a tight situation, attach the winch hook to a stationary position. Make sure your stationary object can support the weight of your vehicle; trees are usually perfect for this task.

4

Turn on your winch to the slowest setting and monitor for slippage.

Detecting a leak in your exhaust is a good way to save yourself from getting sold parts and services you do not need at a shop. By diagnosing the exhaust leak yourself, you will know exactly which parts need replaced or repaired. Performing an exhaust leak check takes about 20 minutes if you have never performed this type of work before.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the vehicle as high as possible. Place two jack stands underneath the front control arms or suspension arms to support the front end in the air.

2

Start the vehicle.

3

Position yourself underneath the vehicle at the front. Have a friend plug the tailpipe of the vehicle with a balled up towel or rag. Listen for a hiss or sputtering noise. Pinpoint where the noise is coming from exactly, and you have located your exhaust leak.

4

Mark the location of the leak down so that you know exactly what part or parts will need to be replaced or repaired.

Honda engines, like all engines, can be prone to problems. Some are common to a certain model or make, while others are simply isolated incidents. Engine recalls have been issued on certain models due to structural or performance errors in the past and the present.

Honda Civic Problems

The 2001 Honda Civic has had at least 23 engine complaints. Problems include engine failure, stalling, computer failure, cracked manifold and reports of it burning oil.

Honda Odyssey Problems

The 2007 Honda Odyssey has at least seven known engine problems. These problems include excessive noise, premature battery death, "pinging" noises, oil leaks and starting failures.

Honda Accord Problems

The 2008 Honda Accord has had at least 107 engine problems attributed to it. Problems include excessive oil consumption, grinding noises, bad gas mileage, loss of power, difficulties starting in cold weather and power loss during acceleration.

You can reset the computer on your 1990 BMW 750II right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The vehicles computer warns you of any and all malfunctions the vehicle is having. It alerts you by illuminating warning lights and service lights on the BMWs instrument panel. After you have had the vehicle serviced or repaired by a qualified mechanic, you or your mechanic will need to reset the vehicles computer in order to keep it functioning properly.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel cover. This can be found in the drivers side dashboard. Pull down on it from the top with your fingers.

2

Find the large port within the fuse panel. It will be the same size and shape as the connective end of the BMW OBD reset tool. This small computerized hand-held device can be purchased from your BMW dealer.

3

Plug the tool into the port.

4

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Dont start the engine.

5

Wait for the tool to automatically clear all the trouble codes. Unplug the tool and close the fuse panel cover. Start the engine and verify that all service and warning lights of the instrument panel have shut off. The computer has been reset.

The Mazda B-Series is a line of pickup trucks manufactured by Mazda Motor Corporation from 1961 to 2006. The number in the series indicates the displacement of the engine, so a Mazda B-4000 has a 4-liter engine. This engine utilizes electronic fuel injection, which requires a highly pressurized fuel system. The fuel pump in a Mazda 4000 is mounted to the fuel tank, so the tank must be removed to service the pump.

Instructions

1

Open the cap on the fuel tank to relieve pressure. Connect pressure gauge T80L-9974-B to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Place the open end of the bleed hose on the pressure gauge into a gasoline container. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the pressure relief valve.

2

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal to prevent accidental sparking. Siphon as much fuel as possible with a hose from the fuel tank into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack and mount it on jack stands. Remove the mounting bolts for the skid plate with a socket wrench and remove the skid plate.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank and disconnect the electrical connections to the fuel pump. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts for the fuel tank straps with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fuel tank straps without deforming the fuel tank. Detach the fuel tank and lower it from the vehicle with a floor jack.

4

Clean the fuel tank around the fuel pump with a shop towel to prevent contamination of the fuel when you remove the fuel pump assembly. Turn the locking retainer ring for the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench and locking ring adapter. Remove the locking retainer ring and pull the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank without damaging the float arm or fuel filter. Discard the mounting gasket for the fuel pump assembly and clean the mounting surface for the fuel pump assembly.

5

Install the new fuel pump and mounting gasket by performing Steps 2 through 4 in reverse. Tighten the locking ring for the fuel pump assembly by turning it clockwise until it locks into place. Fill the tank with gasoline and check the fuel system for leaks.

An on-board diagnostics system tracks when regular maintenance should b done on the Mercedes Sprinter Van. The system triggers a "Service Soon" light that appears on the Sprinters dashboard display when the vehicle needs to be serviced. The great thing about the Mercedes is that you dont need any special tools to reset the warning light. However, you do need to have the Sprinter serviced or do the work yourself before you can manually reset and turn off the vehicles warning light.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont start the engine. Look for the display between the tachometer and the speedometer on the instrument panel.

2

Press the button on the lower left part of the steering wheel. The display panel will tell you why the vehicle needs servicing.

3

Find and press the reset button on the left side of the instrument panel. Hold this button for three seconds.

4

Press the reset button again and hold it until the display says it has been reset. Turn off the vehicle and wait 60 seconds.

5

Turn on the engine and verify that the service light has turned off.

The gas cap is one of the most underrated pieces of vehicle safety equipment. On one side is a large tank full of very flammable liquid, and on the other side is a world full of sparks and hot metal just waiting to set the tank on fire. Making sure your gas cap is in good working condition and sealing the gas tank correctly is one of the simplest and oft-forgotten safety checks you can make on your 2004 Chevy truck.

Instructions

1

Open the gas cap cover (the plastic piece that covers the gas cap) and remove the gas cap. Look caully at the inside of the neck leading to the gas tank and check for any deformation from overtightening.

2

Check the gas cap for any deformation of the threads from overtightening.

3

Look at the top of the gas cap for any cracks or deep scratches in the top. Turn the cap upside down and look for any damage to the O-ring. This could include breaks, cracks, thinning, discoloration or anything else that looks out of place.

4

Check the seal of the gas cap. Usually a bad seal will cause a check engine light. You can also check the seal by putting the cap on, sitting on the side of the truck bed and bouncing up and down to see whether any gas seeps out. You can also drive and look for any gas residue around the edge of the cap after you stop.

5

Watch for subtle problems with the cap. These could include high gas mileage or gas splashing down the side of the truck.

6

Replace the gas cap if you notice any signs of trouble.

The oxygen sensor in a car is now an integral part of the exhaust system. Although it has been around for many years--since the implementation of On-Board-Diagnostics II in 1996--the amount of oxygen sensors per car has doubled. Finding them for replacement is now much trickier.

Location

The oxygen sensors are located directly in the exhaust system, usually by portholes that the sensor screws into on the exhaust pipes--and in some cases, on the exhaust manifold. The exterior portion of the sensor provides a wire and plug that plugs the harness into the ECU and transmits the voltage for monitoring.

History

Designed in the 1960s by a Robert Bosch, the oxygen sensor in a car made its first introduction in the late 1970s on a Volvo that also introduced the 3-way-catalyst system. By 1981, to reduce emissions, all vehicles were being manufactured with catalytic converters.

Function

The function of the oxygen sensor (also known as the Lambda sensor) is to monitor the amount of fuel-to-air mix in the combustible engine of a vehicle. The sensor transmits voltage and the engine management computer (ECU) monitors the ratio. There is an ideal ratio--when a sensor fails or there is an internal problem with the engine, more pollutants emit from the exhaust.

Types

The older sensors were "unheated" sensors. Since they do not transmit voltage until their internal temperature reaches 600 degrees Fahrenheit or more, this allows a period of time in between the ECU being able to monitor the sensor. "Heated" sensors are common today, have extra wires for the heating element and assist in heating the sensor more rapidly.

Considerations

If replacing an oxygen sensor, a direct-fit replacement is far superior to the "universal" sensor which would require cutting, identifying and splicing the wires of the sensor. The direct-fit sensor provides the necessary wires and plug to fit the plug of the wire harness easily.

Inverted lug nuts are often used in high-speed auto racing. They have a unique design that is very different from a traditional lug nut, and this design fulfills a very specific function when installed.

Identification

Inverted lug nuts are similar to regular lugs nuts except they are concave (curved inward) at the end; traditional acorn lug nuts are convex (curved outward). Additionally, acorn lug nuts have a smooth, rounded tip that forms a 60 degree angle, whereas inverted lug nuts do not.

Uses

These types of lug nuts can be used as a replacement for a vehicles original lugs when they have been damaged or lost. They are usually engineered to the exact specification of the wheels of a particular vehicle and are theore not interchangeable with lugs from other vehicles.

Types

These lug nuts come in most of the designs that are used in racing vehicles. For example, they can be found with heptagonal (seven-sided) heads or mag shank heads. They also come in various sizes for different wheel types.

Did your 1992 Ciera just transform itself from a power steering-equipped land yacht to a battleship with manual steering? Time to remove the power steering pump and get a new one. Most backyard mechanics will have an easy time with this repair. Dont be shy about taking the alternator out first if you have big hands that struggle in small places. The more room you have to work, the easier this job will be.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery with a socket wrench.

2

Pull the hoses off the steering pump. Tape the openings on the hoses and pump shut with tape to prevent dirt or other contaminants from getting into the power steering fluid. Put the hoses in a position where they are as high as possible to prevent fluid draining out.

3

Loosen the alternator adjustment bolt with the socket wrench to create slack in the drive belt. Remove the belt by hand. This repair is much easier if you completely remove the alternator at this stage to create more room around the power steering pump.

4

On 4-cylinder engines, remove the radiator hose clamp bolt just in front of the steering pump using a socket wrench. Remove the right engine splash shield after undoing the clips and screws that hold it in place.

On 6-cylinder models, you must remove the alternator before proceeding. Remove the upper alternator bracket and alternator pivot bolt with the socket wrench to remove the alternator.

Pump Removal

5

Loosen and remove the power steering pump retaining bolts with the socket wrench.

6

Loosen and remove any braces on the power steering pump with the socket wrench. Remove the power steering pump.

7

Remove the pump pulley from the pump. Keep the pulley to attach to the power steering pump you plan to install. At this stage you can choose to rebuild your existing pump or buy a new one.

It can be scary when you are driving and your "service engine soon" (SES) light comes on. There are multiple issues that can cause the light to come on. While some may be simple, others may be a big problem. There is no way to tell for sure at the moment what is wrong unless your Nissan is also acting funny.

Instructions

1

Check your gas cap. This is a very common issue that triggers an SES light in Nissans. If the gas cap isnt sealed properly or if it was opened while the truck was running, the light will come on. Replace the cap if necessary. If you took the cap off when your engine was running, you can reset the SES light by disconnecting and reconnecting your battery cable.

2

Diagnose the problem with your vehicle by using a universal code reader. This machine reads the error code your truck is giving, and tells you the corresponding problem for that code. Taking it to a mechanic is always an option, but this usually costs money. Take your truck to an auto parts chain and have your SES diagnostic done for free.

3

Use the universal code reader by putting your truck into its diagnostic test mode. Turn your ignition on, but do not crank the engine. Depress and fully release the gas pedal five times quickly within five seconds. Wait seven seconds and push the gas pedal down and hold it for 10 seconds. This should cause the SES light to start blinking. Let off the gas pedal. The number of blinks (for example, one blink equals "1," five blinks equals "5," ten blinks equals "0") tells you what error code you have. You can then look it up. After you have your results, hold the gas pedal down for 10 more seconds to erase the memory and reset your SES light.

From 1973 until 2000 all Harley-Davidson models used tapered Timkin wheel bearings on both the front and rear wheels. Since 2000 all Harleys have used sealed wheel bearings on both wheels. The current wheel bearings go on and come off as a unit with a bearing puller/installation tool. End play on the sealed bearings is pre-set. Only 1999 and earlier Harleys require that wheel bearing end play be set during installation and servicing. Sealed wheel bearing kits are available for older bikes. The sealed bearings should last 100,000 miles and the old bearings must be serviced every 10,000 miles. But it is a matter of debate as to whether the old bearings are superior to the new ones.

Instructions

1

Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

2

Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

3

Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than 0.18 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

4

Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thicknesses, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

5

Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

6

Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with lithium grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and 018 inches.

In order to arrive at an annual repair cost for a vehicle, you have to take into consideration several factors. For instance, the age of the vehicle and whether it is a new car recently purchased or a used vehicle that has outlived its warranty can largely determine what your annual cash outlay will be. American domestic cars and foreign made vehicles may vary on annual repair and maintenance costs.

Maintenance and Repair Coverage

New and limited car warranties and the frequency of car maintenance can have a bearing on annual repair cost. For instance, new car warranties will cover tires and electrical and mechanical system problems, and theore limit repair costs for owners. Yet, eventually, cars owned between three and five years can see an average annual maintenance and repair cost of $600 per year. These repair costs can include, heating, air conditioning, cooling system or engine and transmission problems. Some new car warranties may cover these repairs for 36 months, but, "with most new cars youre on your own in covering these repair costs," according to the website Safe Car Guide.

Vehicle Reliability Rating

The vehicle reliability rating that Consumer Report provides for car owners can help to determine what the average repair cost may be for your vehicle. Consumer Reports bases its reliability rating upon at least five years of repair-cost data, along with a combination of other measurements, such as crash protection, airbags and accident avoidance. It is important to examine just where your vehicle falls on the reliability rating list, because car-brand cost is not necessarily a determining repair factor. What is certain is that the lower the reliability car rating, the higher the cost of annual repairs.

Age of the Car

The age of the car has a lot to do with the average cost for repair of the vehicle. Typically after three to five years, the factory warranties have expired and the cost will escalate as the car ages. A car that is five years or slightly older and has more than 80,000 miles on it, can cost about $900 a year in repairs, according to the website Safe Car Guide. Yet, there can be a difference is annual repair costs between makes and models. For instance, The five-year old Range Rovers maintenance and repair cost is approximately $2,000, while the Toyota Land Cruiser was lower, at $600 per year.

Cost of Car Parts

The cost of your vehicles car parts can determine whether or not you will spend several hundred dollars a year for repairs or a couple thousand. There are several Japanese and European car models that will cost more for similar repairs that are performed on a domestic American car because of higher foreign car-part costs. For instance, if you were going to replace the brake pads, rotors or small front-suspension parts on a domestic model like a Ford Taurus, the annual cost could be as low as $600, instead of possibly $2,000 for a similarly aged Audi A4, according to Safe Car Guide.

The horn on your Pontiac Transport van must be in working condition for the safety and street legality of your vehicle. The horn is designed for your safety, to let people know of your presence so that accidents can be avoided. Because of this, the horn must work in order for the car to pass state inspection. As a cost saving measure, you should search used parts dealers or junkyards for a replacement horn, which you can install for yourself in a few steps.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of your vehicle and stabilize it so that you can operate.

2

Locate the horn module just inside the grill of your vehicle. It is circular-shaped, like a school bell, and mounted under the hood with a wire plugged into its socket to provide power.

3

Use a wrench or screwdriver (depending on how your horn module is attached) to loosen the screws, nuts or bolts mounting the stock horn. Set aside these pieces so that they wont get lost.

4

Unplug the wire set from the horns socket. Remove the horn from the vehicle.

5

Place the new horn onto the mount and screw it into place using the pieces you removed from the old horn. Plug the wires into the new horn. Close the hood of your car and dispose of the old horn.

The Chevrolet Suburban has been in continuous production since 1935. The 2002 model was a sport utility vehicle that also had other marketing names such as the GMC Yukon and Cadillac Escalade. This vehicle had several choices of engines, all of which had fuel injection. The fuel pump in the 2002 Chevrolet Suburban installs into the fuel tank. You must theore remove the fuel tank from the vehicle to install the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery to avoid starting the engine accidentally. Remove the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure fitting on the fuel rail and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fitting. Connect the bleed hose to the pressure gauge and place the open end of the bleed hose into a container approved for gasoline. Open the fuel pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Remove the fuel pressure gauge from the fitting.

2

Place one end of a hose into the filler tube of the fuel tank and place the other end into the gasoline container. Siphon as much fuel as possible from the fuel tank into the container.

3

Disconnect the filler pipe and fuel lines from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and remove the bolts for the fuel tank straps with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fuel tank straps and lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the harness clip from the cross member and the electrical connections from the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank completely and remove it from the vehicle.

4

Turn the retaining ring for the fuel sender assembly counterclockwise with a fuel tank sending wrench. Remove the retaining ring, and detach the fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank. Pull the fuel strainer from the fuel sender assembly and discard the strainer.

5

Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump. Release the retaining clip for the fuel sensors electrical connector and detach the fuel sensors electrical connector. Release the retaining clip for the fuel level sensor and remove the fuel level sensor.

6

Install the new fuel pump and gasket by reversing steps two through five. Tighten the bolts for the fuel tanks retaining straps to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolts for the cross member to 37 ft. lbs. Fill the fuel tank and replace its filler cap. Connect the cable for the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for two seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Turn the ignition back on and check for fuel leaks.

Your car exhaust may need replacement for increased engine performance or safety concerns. The specific make and model of your vehicle will determine your specific exhaust system design, though each car exhaust system does includes the same general components, including the exhaust manifold or headers, front piping, catalytic converter, resonator, muffler and tailpipe. Corrosion, age, punctures or dents can reduce system efficiency, in turn reducing engine power or fuel efficiency and increasing safety concerns due to carbon monoxide fumes leaking into the atmosphere or vehicle cabin. Removing and replacing exhaust components is a straightforward process.

Instructions

1

Lift the car high enough off the ground where you will be able to detach exhaust components easily. Use a hydraulic lift or tire jack and jack stands. Before sliding underneath the vehicle verify it is secure.

2

Unbolt the muffler assembly from the pipe leading into the catalytic converter or resonator using the socket and wrench set. A bolt flange will mate the muffler assembly into the next component. Your vehicle may have a resonator, which reduces noise in between the muffler and catalytic converter.

3

Locate the exhaust hanger locations holding the muffler assembly in place. Locate any other bolts holding the muffler assembly into the tailpipe or piping and remove.

4

Remove the muffler assembly and place it off to the side along with the corresponding fasteners, hangers and hardware.

5

Unbolt the chassis brace holding the pipe following the muffler assembly bolt flange, if applicable.

6

Remove any bolts mating the resonator piping and catalytic converter together. If there is not a resonator, unbolt the nuts mating the catalytic converter into the front pipe.

7

Unhook the separated exhaust piping from the corresponding exhaust hangers in systematic order from the rear towards the engine. Identify any hangers or flange bolts which may have been missed that are holding the components in place. Place the removed components off to the side with corresponding hardware.

8

Unbolt the front pipe from the bottom of the exhaust manifold flange if installing a full exhaust system. The front pipe leads up towards the engine bay. Remove the front pipe.

9

Open the hood and find the exhaust manifold. Bolts connect the exhaust manifold into the cylinder ports. Only remove this component when compromised or when replacing with a full system that includes new headers.

10

Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine block and remove. Be mindful of the gasket between the engine ports and the exhaust manifold.

11

Verify every component of the car exhaust has been removed.

Every two years, car owners in California must have their cars pass a smog inspection to register their vehicles for the following year. As of Jan. 1, 2005, car owners can pay a $20 smog abatement fee instead of taking the test if they own a car less than six years old. Other exceptions are made for certain natural gas, diesel, trailers, hybrids, motorcycles and older gas vehicles before 1976. While it can be unnerving for the majority of owners whose vehicles arent exempt, they can follow a few steps to make help ensure their car passes the next California smog check.

Instructions

1

If your car is newer, ask your friends for a reliable smog check place. While on paper all certified smog testing facilities should follow the rules, some businesses want to make an extra profit by intentionally failing your vehicle. If youve taken your cars to the same place for years, and they have always passed, its a good idea not to switch. Even if a new place offers a coupon or deal to try their facility, you could end up paying much more after the entire ordeal. While test-only stations are authorized only to perform smog checks, other places can perform repairs in addition to the smog test, so unless a test-only station is in cahoots with a neighboring repair facility, there is less profit to be made from test-only stations, especially if they offer free-retesting.

2

If your car is older, take it to a smog check and repair facility where you know the mechanic. In 2010 a California state audit, about one third of pre-1996 cars passed a roadside smog check only one year after passing at a typical test station. The results of the audit suggested widespread fraud in the testing centers. While you shouldnt take your car to a repair facility where you know the mechanic in an effort to join the many scamming the system, you should take it to a legitimate place where you know the mechanic in order to get a good price quote on the parts and labor involved in repairing a failed car.

3

Use your stock tires. If you replace stock tires with larger ones, the results from the dynamo-meter will be incorrect and can cause your vehicle to fail.

4

Set your engine ignition timings to manufacturer specifications. Incorrect ignition timings can cause your vehicle. Car repair manuals such as Haynes, Mitchell and Chilton sometimes have different ignition timings listed for what should be a standard number for your vehicle, so ask the testing facility what book they use as a erence before submitting your vehicle to their test.

5

Drive your car for an hour before the test to heat up the catalytic converter, which reduces the emissions from your car and causes it to operate more efficiently.

The Mini Cooper was an iconic British automobile for much of the second half of the 20th century. Its small size was both economical and fuel efficient, leading it to be compared favorably to its rival, the Volkswagen Beetle. The Mini Cooper became popular in the U.S. around the turn of the 21st century, and it has a devoted set of followers. The 2005 Mini Cooper came standard with fog lights, which periodically will need to have new bulbs installed. This repair is straightforward and easy to do.

Instructions

1

Park your Mini Copper someplace flat, level and well lit. Set the parking brake and let the car cool down for 15 to 20 minutes.

2

Crawl under the front bumper and look directly behind the fog light lens for the inner fog light assembly. There are only two functioning parts to the assembly, a wiring harness and the bulb in a socket.

3

Unplug the harness by squeezing the base of the plug and pulling it out of the socket. Reach in and grasp the bulb. Give it a half turn to the left and pull it free from the socket.

4

Insert the new bulb an secure it in the socket. Be caul not to overtwist it during installation. Plug the harness back in.

In 1906, Alanson Brush invented a new, more stable suspension system that incorporated front coil springs, shock absorbers and a flexible front axle. This all came about after William Brush -- Alansons brother -- crashed Alansons car, due to its primitive suspension system. In modern suspension systems there is a bar -- sway bar -- that spans the front, and sometimes the rear, suspension to help with vehicle cornering. A set of metal rods, known as sway bar links, attach to the ends of this bar, and they perform an important task.

Sway Bar Link Function

The sway bar links tie the control arms to the sway bar on the front of the vehicle, and the sway bar to the rear hub assembly, frame or axle beam on the rear of the vehicle. This tying of the suspension keeps the body as level as possible while cornering quickly. The sway bar links have rubber bushings to allow slight body roll. This body roll regulation prevents the weight of the vehicle from shifting, causing the vehicle to lose control.

Sway Bar Link Location

Auto manufacturers install one end of each sway bar link at each end of the sway bar, and the other end of the sway bar link to the control arm.

Sway Bar Link Types

There are two main types of sway bar links, one-piece and multi-piece. One-piece sway bar links have a long bar with studs on each end. The studs connect to a ball-and-socket joint to allow small movements of the link.

The multi-piece sway bar links typically have a total of 11 components, including one link bolt, four rubber bushings, four metal washers, one metal sleeve and one retaining nut. When replacing a multi-piece sway bar link, it is imperative that you install all components in the correct order. Failure to do so may result in poor handling and suspension noise.

Signs and Symptoms of Sway Bar Link Failure

When a one-piece sway bar link fails, it is sometimes hard to know -- it typically makes no noise. If you notice excessive body roll or lean when cornering, it is likely that the ball-and-socket joint has worn and is allowing too much movement.

A multi-piece sway bar link typically fails due to the deterioration of the rubber bushings. This results in excessive body roll or lean when cornering, and an audible jingling sound from the front end. The reason you hear this jingle is that once the bushings fail, the link is loose and bounces up and down with the texture of the road. On occasion, impact may bend or break a multi-piece sway bar link. In this instance you may hear a slight rubbing or banging noise from the front end. You will also notice excessive body roll.

Spindles on a bus are small parts that are used in the brake application of the vehicle. They are found along each brake line where the tires are. Over time they can become worn and need to be flipped. Flipping spindles ers to removing the old spindle and replacing it with a new one. Flipping the spindle on a 1966 bus is no different from flipping it on any other type of bus.

Instructions

1

Slide a car jack underneath the tire where the spindle you will flip is located. A spindle is located near each tire at the brake line. Jack up the bus until the wheel is off the ground.

2

Remove the tire with a tire iron. Slide the tire iron into the lug nuts holding the tire in place and twist the iron counterclockwise to loosen all the nuts. Move from one to the other until they are all loosened and remove them by hand. Pull off the tire and set it aside.

3

Run your hand over the back of the brake line and find the spindle. Loosen the lock bolt holding the spindle in place with an adjustable wrench. Pull the bolt out of the spindle caully by hand.

4

Loosen all the remaining bolts holding the spindle in place with an adjustable wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise and remove the bolts. Set them aside so they can be reused for the new spindle.

5

Pull the spindle away from the brake line and set it down. Place the new spindle in the exact spot where the old one was. Slide the bolts into the opening where they were removed from. Tighten them in place with the adjustable wrench.

6

Slide the wheel back in place and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron. Lower the jack so the bus is resting on the ground.

The Celica was a series of coupes manufactured by Toyota from 1970 to 2006. The GT was the base model of the seventh-generation Celica made from 1999 to 2006. The GTS was a sportier version of the GT. The engine in the Celica GTS was a four-cylinder, 1.8-liter engine with the oil pump mounted on the front of the engine. The replacement of the oil pump in this vehicle requires the removal of additional components to access the oil pump.

Instructions

1

Position a drain pan under the oil drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Empty the oil into the drain pan and install the drain plug. Dispose of the used oil.

2

Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This will keep you from inadvertently starting the engine during the oil pump replacement. Remove the timing chain and disconnect the sprocket for the crankshaft with a socket wrench.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump and its gasket from the engine.

4

Clean the mounting surfaces for the oil pump with a shop towel. Mount a new gasket to the new oil pump. Install the oil pump to the engine and tighten its mounting bolts to 80 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Install the sprocket for the crankshaft and the timing chain with a socket wrench. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.

6

Fill the engine with oil and start the vehicle. Check and repair any oil leaks.

The Chrysler Concorde began production in 1993 and ran until 2004. The Concorde is a four-door sedan that comes with an automatic transmission. If your 1997 Chrysler Concorde isnt starting after the engine gets hot, you might have a problem with your cooling system. You dont have to be a car mechanic to figure out what is wrong with your Concorde. You can figure it out yourself.

Instructions

1

Turn the Concorde off and remove the key from the ignition. Allow the car to sit for about three to four hours so the engine cools. Open the hood to the Concorde to allow the engine to cool quicker.

2

Locate the coolant tank on the left side of the engine. Look on the side of the coolant tank for the fill lines (labeled "coolant"). They will be translucent so you can see how much coolant is inside the tank.

3

Use a funnel to fill the tank with more coolant. You can find coolant at a local department store or at an auto shop. Fill the tank to the fill line with 50/50 coolant.

4

Look underneath your Concorde to look for any coolant leaks, which could be from the water pump. Get a mechanic to look over the water pump and make sure it does not need replacement.

Automatic gearboxes are integral elements of any automatic transmission system. Automatic transmissions have become more and more common due to their ease of use. Several major types of automatic gearboxes are in wide use today, all of which achieve the same goal---switching gears automatically---but do it in different ways. If you are interested in transmissions and the way they work, this is an excellent place to start.

Torque Converters

Torque converter automatic gearboxes are the oldest type of automatic gearbox. They are very easy to use and allow for a smooth ride but are also not very fuel efficient. However, they are extremely reliable. Torque converter automatic gearboxes can be designed to have any amount of gears, and the more gears that are built into one, the more efficient the gearbox. These gearboxes are powered by the turning of a shaft, which connects the engine to the transporter.

Continuously Variable Transmission

Continuously variable transmission (CVT) automatic gearboxes are used only by a few auto manufacturers, including Honda, Nissan, Audi and Mercedes. In addition, CVTs are also usually used only in smaller vehicles. They tend to be more reliable and fuel efficient than torque converter automatic gearboxes. They always come with seven speeds.

Direct Shifts

Direct shift automatic transmissions were created by the Volkswagen Audi Group, and they appear in cars made by this manufacturer, such as Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda and Seat. They come with six speeds, and they are known for their fast shifting ability as well as their fuel efficiency.

Automatic Manual Transmissions

Automated manual transmission, or AMT, gearboxes consist of a strange hybrid of manual and automatic transmission types. They essentially consist of a manual-style gearbox that is nevertheless operated automatically by the vehicles onboard computer. Often, you can choose between either a fully automatic mode or a manual mode. Since a computer switches the gears, AMTs have much lower levels of gear wear as well as increased fuel economy.

Front- and Rear-Wheel Drives

Types of automatic gearboxes can also be differentiated by their location in the vehicle. Front-wheel drive automatic transmission gearboxes are positioned in the front of the car and tend to be smaller and more compact. They are mounted in the engine compartment and are sometimes erred to as "transaxle." Rear-wheel drive automatic gearboxes are situated near the back wheels and tend to take up more space.

The 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix uses a single unit headlight with a dual internal filament for the low and high beams. While this simplifies the location of the headlight bulb, its not uncommon for one of the filaments to become faulty while the other still works, and this requires the replacement of the bulb. When handling the replacement bulb(s), its important to avoid skin contact with the glass bulb portion. Halogen headlights burn extremely hot, and oils, perspiration or other contaminants on skin will create a weak spot on the bulb and compromise its life.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Pontiac Grand Prix after making sure the headlight switch is in the "Off" position. Apply the parking brake for added safety if desired.

2

Look for the Phillips head screw on top of the junction of the headlight assembly and the marker/directional light assembly. Loosen the screw about 1/4 of an inch with a Phillips head screwdriver. The loosened screw will act like a hinge for easier removal of the assembly.

3

Locate the headlight assembly retaining bolts on top of the radiator rail at each rear edge of the assembly. Remove the bolts with a ratchet and 10 mm socket.

4

Wiggle the headlight assembly and the marker/directional light assembly back and forth to pivot the two assemblies on the hinge screw until they come out as a connected unit from their cavity (just far enough to reach a hand behind to access the faulty headlight).

5

Disconnect the blue-capped wire harness plug from the headlight socket.

6

Twist the headlight socket a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.

7

Align the tabs on the replacement headlight (being caul not to touch the glass bulb) to the grooves of the headlight assembly and push it slightly inward before turning it clockwise a 1/4 turn.

8

Plug the wire harness connection back into the headlight socket. With the headlight assembly resting on the shelf of the cavity/bumper, test the headlights before putting the assemblies in place. Be sure to test both low and high beams for operation.

9

Reinstall the headlight assembly and the marker/directional assembly in place by reversing the removal procedure. Replace the headlight assembly retaining bolts, tighten the hinge screw, remove the tools and close the hood.

The Chevrolet Corvette is a sports car that has been in continuous production since 1952. The 1991 model belongs to the fourth generation of the Corvette, which includes the 1984 through the 1996 model years. The side mirror mount on the 1991 Corvette is a modular unit that detaches from the vehicle. The procedure for installing the side mirror is the same for all Corvettes made from 1989 to 1996.

Instructions

1

Lower the window completely. Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent an electrical short circuit or shock while installing the mirror.

2

Remove the trim panel and water deflector from the interior side of the door with a socket wrench. Disconnect the screws for the accessory mounting plate on the inside of the door to gain access to the electrical connectors for the side mirror.

3

Disconnect the retainer on the electrical wiring harness for the side mirror, and detach the electrical connector for the mirror. Record the routing for the mirrors wiring harness, so you can route it properly when you install the new mirror.

4

Remove the retaining nuts for the side mirror with a socket wrench, and detach the mirror unit from the door. Detach the wind deflector from the mirror unit, if you have a convertible.

5

Connect the wind deflector to the new mirror unit with a socket wrench, if you have a convertible. Mount the mirror unit to the door, and fasten it with the retaining nuts. Attach the electrical connector to the mirror, using the routing you previously recorded as a guide. Attach the retainer for the wiring harness.

6

Install the accessory mounting plate to the door with a socket wrench. Attach the water deflector and trim panel to the inside of the door. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Damage can be done to the wheel of a vehicle in many ways including accidents, inclement weather, objects on the road, and road salt used for winter cleanup. Wheels are most commonly manufactured using an alloy, aluminum, or chrome. With some time, common materials, and patience, the damage to a wheel can be repaired by the owner of the vehicle at a fraction of the cost of a repair shop trip.

Instructions

1

Use water and soap to clean the wheel before beginning repair. Make sure that all dirt and old wheel-care product debris are removed. Use a rag soaked in paint thinner to remove any remaining debris. Take another rag and dry the wheel.

2

Take the masking tape and position it around the wheel, extending it below the tire. Ensure the tape is secure.

3

Rub the damaged section of the wheel vigorously using 240-grit sandpaper. Apply two-part putty to the damaged region. Let the putty set completely.

4

Smooth the area where the putty was applied using 400-grit sandpaper.

5

Cover the entire side of the vehicle with the damaged wheel with masking paper and secure the masking paper with masking tape. This stops silver lacquer or primer from coming in contact with the paint of the vehicle.

6

Disperse primer onto the area of the wheel being repaired. Remove primer that comes in contact with other sections of the wheel quickly. Allow the primer to set completely.

7

Apply silver wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

8

Apply high-gloss wheel lacquer to the fixed portion of the wheel and allow it to set completely.

The rear drum brakes on your 1996 Dodge Stratus need to replacing half as often as the front brakes. Since the front brakes take the most strain when braking, they tend to wear down faster. You should inspect and replace the rear drum brakes on your Stratus if you start to hear a grinding noise as you slow down or stop. Backyard mechanics can save a significant amount of money by replacing the brakes at home instead of going to the repair shop.

Instructions

1

Raise your Stratus with the jack and set the jack stands on both sides of the rear axle. Lower your Stratus onto the two jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench and slide the rear wheels off the axle.

3

Clamp the brake drum puller hooks over the sides of the drum on the drivers side. Position the threaded center bar in the middle of the brake drum. Rotate the bar clockwise with the socket and ratchet to separate the brake drum and the hub.

4

Locate the retaining springs linking the brake shoes with the hub, then pull them out with the pliers.

5

Pull the brake shoes up and away from the brake drum and secure the replacement shoes in place with the retainer springs, using your pliers.

6

Slide the drum over the shoes and hammer it into the axle with the rubber mallet. Repeat for the passenger-side rear drum.

7

Push the wheels back onto the axle and use the lug wrench to replace and secure all of the lug nuts.

8

Lift your car with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower your Stratus with the jack until it sits back on the ground. Then turn on your engine and pump your brakes by pushing down the foot pedal five times.

Resetting the OBD-II codes on a Ford Ranger is a simple fix that requires no expensive tools. The trucks computer stores trouble codes it detects from sensors placed throughout the vehicle. When it finds a problem, a light illuminates on the instrument panel warning the driver of a problem that needs to be addressed. The vehicles computer also stores codes for routine maintenance. For Ford Rangers that are model year 1996 and later, you can use an OBD-II scanner to read the codes. An OBD-I scanner needs to be used for vehicles 1995 and older. Once the codes have been read by the scanner and the problem fixed, you can reset the codes by disconnecting the battery.

Instructions

1

Pop up the hood of the vehicle and find the negative battery cable, usually black. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt attaching the cable to the battery.

2

Lift up and remove the negative battery cable from the battery.

3

Wait one minute, then put the negative battery cable back in place and tighten the bolt.

4

Start the engine. Check the instrument panel to make sure all the warning lights are turned off.

The 6.5-liter engine introduced by General Motors in 1992 was a diesel engine that was frequently turbocharged. It was an option for many full-size Chevrolet and GMC pickup trucks from 1992 to 1999. The fuel injectors in the 6.5-liter deliver diesel fuel to the engine at precise intervals to maximize fuel efficiency. The replacement of the fuel injectors in this engine requires you to remove additional components to access the injectors.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench to ensure you dont accidentally start the engine. Release the clip that connects the fuel return line to the fuel injectors and detach the fuel line.

2

Remove the mounting bolt that attaches the the air cleaner bracket to the valve cover with a socket wrench, and detach the air cleaner bracket from the valve cover. Disconnect the bracket for the crankcase ventilator. Detach the fuel lines to the secondary fuel filter and disconnect the secondary fuel filter.

3

Release the clamp that holds the vacuum pump in place and move the pump to gain access to the mounting bolts for the intake manifold. Disconnect the mounting bolts with a socket wrench and remove the intake manifold. Place a cover such as GM part no. J-29664-1 to keep debris out of the engine.

4

Release the clips that attach the fuel injection lines to the loom brackets. Detach the fuel injection lines from the fuel injector nozzles and place caps on the fuel injector nozzles. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel injection pump.

5

Grip the 30mm hex portion of each fuel injector with GM special tool J-29873 and turn the injector counterclockwise to remove it. Remove and discard the fuel injector gaskets. Place a protective cap on the open end of each fuel injector to keep debris out of the fuel injector.

6

Mount a new gasket to each new fuel injector. Attach GM special tool J-29873 to a torque wrench and install the fuel injector by turning it clockwise with the special tool. Torque the fuel injector to 50 ft. lbs.

7

Perform steps one through four in reverse sequence to complete the installation of the fuel injectors. Tighten the fittings for the fuel injection lines to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the secondary fuel filter to 30 ft. lbs. Tighten the bolts that connect the fuel line to the secondary fuel filter to 9 in. lbs.