For U Solution

The tailpipe of your vehicle extends off the muffler. It is not uncommon to see smoke coming from the tailpipe, which is the last component and exit of a vehicles exhaust system. Smoke is not always a cause for concern, but always note the color. Color and odor of the exhaust smoke are sometimes the first clues in diagnosing problems with the vehicles exhaust and cooling systems.

White Smoke

Every vehicle is likely to show a small amount of white smoke when first started, especially on cold mornings. As long as the smoke disappears as the engine warms up, there is no need to worry. Its the result of cold fuel and steam as the manifold heats up, and the white is actually the steam burning off.

Coolant Leaks

Theres a more serious problem if your vehicle continues to emit white smoke after it is fully warmed up. This indicates the presence of either water or coolant antifreeze in the combustion chamber. Since these substances are not supposed to be burned during internal combustion, they can cause serious problems with your engine -- often indicating a damaged head gasket -- that are costly to repair.

Checking for Leaks

The odor of the smoke can indicate if you have a coolant leak. If antifreeze is present in the combustion chamber, the white smoke will have a sweet smell. Also check your oil. Milky oil indicates the presence of coolant but can also mean nothing; heavy humidity can cause moisture to form in the crankcase, resulting in a similar symptom. Do not attempt to drive your car if the oil looks more like a milkshake than motor oil, as this is a sign of excessive water or coolant in the oil.

Moisture

Water coming from the tail pipe is usually nothing to be concerned about. It indicates condensation buildup, or is the byproduct of the steam when first starting the vehicle. Most exhaust systems dispel small amounts of water through the tail pipe. Water from the muffler itself is also a normal occurrence, and is likely coming from the weep hole. This water is a byproduct of the catalytic converter, which helps control the vehicles emissions.

The side mirror on a Ford F150 attaches to the side of the door via three bolts molded into the plastic mirror assembly. A small triangular plastic cover hides the mounting nuts that are accessible form the inside of the door. Ford uses this method on all of its late model vehicles, including its popular F150 truck series.

Instructions

1

Remove the triangular cover that hides the bolts and wiring harness from the inside of the door panel by pulling it off the door with your hands. The cover is located inside the door on the opposite side of the side mirror.

2

Disconnect the two plastic wiring harness connectors that connect the motor inside of the mirror assembly with the mirror control switch. If your mirror is not powered, skip this step.

3

Hold the mirror to keep it from falling out and remove the three nuts that secure the mirror to the door with a long-well socket.

4

Pull the mirror along with the mirror studs out of the door and slide the new mirror into the door, studs first.

5

Hold the mirror in place while you secure it with the three nuts.

6

Reconnect the wiring harness. Again, if the mirror is not powered, skip this step.

7

Place the triangular cover back onto the door panel and push it into place.

Vehicle engines are a complex system of wires, moving parts and computerized controls. If an engine is not operational or is running poorly, engine diagnostic tools can help determine the cause of the problem. Such tools can be utilized to check many different engine systems, such as the electrical or computer-driven operations. Other tests can determine if the engines moving parts are in proper working order.

Voltmeter

A voltmeter can take a measurement of the electrical currents flowing through various engine components and can be used to find faulty wiring. The device can also test ignition coils or relay switches to determine if those parts are preventing an engine from starting. Voltmeters are also helpful in testing the electrical charge in the vehicles battery. Although high-end models can cost considerably more, a basic voltmeter costs about $20.

Compression Tester

Automobile engines use air in the spark plug firing process, so testing the compression of the cylinders can give an indication of the motors health. Specifically, low compression can indicate a worn exhaust valve, a bad head gasket or other significant problem. A vehicles compression can be tested manually, which requires a gauge, or, on newer vehicles, electronically. If the compression is tested manually, each of the spark plugs must be removed and the ignition coils must be disabled.

OBD-ii System

Most late-model vehicles are equipped with an OBD-ii system, which stands for on-board diagnostics. This system can be plugged into a OBD reader that can then interpret data obtained by the cars on-board computer system. The reader can often pinpoint malfunctioning engine components. There are three types of OBD-ii systems and those generally are made for the three different types of circuitry: those of European and Chrysler vehicles, those of General Motors vehicles and those of Ford vehicles. The OBD-ii system also captures the reasons that a vehicles check engine light goes on or off. A reputable mechanic will have access to an OBD-ii reader, or the device can be purchased for about $200.

The 2003 Chevy Silverado base model came with a 4.3-liter V-6 and a five-speed manual transmission. The exhaust manifolds are the link between the cylinder head and exhaust piping, and provide a direct path for the exhaust to exit the engine. Exhaust manifolds commonly need to be replaced because of cracking, excessive corrosion or warping of the mating surface. Because the 4.3 has two cylinder heads there are also two exhaust manifolds, each of which has its own procedure for replacement.

Instructions

Right Exhaust Manifold Removal

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack until the vehicle rests securely on the jack stands. Allow the engine to cool completely before continuing.

2

Lay down under the vehicle and locate the flange for the right exhaust manifold and downpipe mating area. Remove the three mounting nuts with the socket and ratchet.

3

Loosen the clamps for the air intake hose at the intake manifold and mass airflow sensor with the screwdriver. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation tube and remove the air cleaner adapter nut. Tilt the air cleaner tube upward to release the hinge and remove the air cleaner tube from the engine.

4

Label and disconnect the three right spark plug wires. Remove the spark plug wire retainer bolt with the socket and ratchet. Position the spark plug wires on top of the engine, marking them with tape to ensure proper placement when you reinstall them. Remove the spark plugs with the spark plug socket and ratchet.

5

Remove the engine oil dipstick and set it aside. Follow the bracket that is welded to the top of the tube to its mounting position on the cylinder head. Remove the dipstick tube bolt with the socket and ratchet. Lift the dipstick tube out of the engine block with a slight twisting motion. Wipe off any thread sealant and set the dipstick tube aside.

6

Remove the exhaust manifold and the spark plug heat shield bolts. Remove the spark plug heat shields and set aside. Remove the exhaust manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets. Clean the exhaust manifold mating surface on the cylinder head with the wire brush. Clean any leftover sealant from the dipstick tube hole with a shop rag.

Right Exhaust Manifold Installation

7

Install the new exhaust manifold gaskets to the exhaust manifold. Place the exhaust manifold into position followed by the spark plug heat shields and exhaust manifold bolts. The tabs in the gasket should hold everything in place to aid in installation.

8

Apply the threadlock compound to the threads of the exhaust manifold bolts. Set the exhaust manifold into position and tighten the mounting bolts, in an alternating pattern, 22 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Inspect the spark plugs for excessive wear or corrosion and replace as necessary. Check the spark plug gap and ensure its set at 0.060-inch with the spark plug gap tool.

9

Thread the spark plugs into the cylinder head by hand and then tighten to 11 foot-pounds with the spark plug socket and torque wrench. Position the spark plug wire retainer and loosely install the bolt. Connect the spark plug wires to their respective spark plugs based on the markings made previously. Remove the tape from the plug wires. Place a small amount of pipe sealant on the base of the tube and Install the oil level indicator tube by pushing it into its hole in the crankcase. Install the dipstick tube bracket bolt to the cylinder head and tighten to 106 inch-pounds. Tighten the plug wire bracket bolt to 106 inch-pounds.

10

Align the hinge clip with the lip on the throttle body opening and rotate the air cleaner tube downward until the stud pushes through the mounting hole. Install the air cleaner adapter nut. Direct the air intake tube to the MAF sensor and tighten the mounting clamp. Connect the PCV tube to the air intake tube.

11

Lay down under the vehicle and install the new gasket to the downpipe and install the manifold retaining nuts. Tighten the down pipe to manifold maintaining nuts in an alternating pattern to 37 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

12

Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the floor jack.

Left Exhaust Manifold Removal

13

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck into the air with the floor jack and place the jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack until the vehicle rests securely on the jack stands. Allow the engine to cool completely before continuing.

14

Lay under the vehicle and locate the flanged connection for the exhaust manifold and exhaust down pipe. Remove the retaining nuts with the socket and ratchet.

15

Mark and label each of the spark plug wires with the tape to aid in installation. Disconnect the spark plug wires from each spark plug. Remove the spark plug wire retaining bolts with the socket and ratchet. Move the plug wires to the top of the engine and out of the way.

16

Remove the spark plugs with the spark plug socket and ratchet. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor connector and put it aside. Remove the exhaust manifold and spark plug shield bolts and stud with the socket and ratchet. Remove the spark plug shields followed by the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gaskets.

Left Exhaust Manifold Installation

17

Clean the mating surface at the cylinder head with the wire brush. Place the new manifold gasket onto the exhaust manifold and set the spark plug head shields into place. Place the manifold and heat shield bolts through the holes on the manifold; the new gasket should hold everything together.

18

Coat the exhaust manifold bolt threads with the threadlock compound and install the manifold to the cylinder head. Tighten the mounting bolts, in an alternating pattern, to 22 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Connect the coolant temperature harness to the coolant temperature sensor.

19

Install the spark plugs into the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the spark plugs to 11 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Place the spark plug retainer into position and install the retaining bolts, tightening them to 106 inch-pounds with the torque wrench.

20

Connect the spark plug wires to their respective plugs according to the tape markings on the plug wires. Remove the tape from the spark plug wires.

21

Lay down under the vehicle and install the new doughnut gasket to the exhaust manifold downpipe. Set the downpipe and exhaust manifold into position and install the mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts, in an alternating pattern, to 37 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

22

Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the floor jack.

Ford equipped the 1992 Bronco XLT with a 4.9-liter V-6 engine bolted to a five-speed manual transmission as standard equipment. A four-speed automatic transmission was an option, along with the choice of a 5.0-liter or a 5.8-liter V-8 engine. Use a hand-held scan tool such as Fords Self-Test Automatic Readout tester or an equivalent on your Bronco XLT to access the on-board diagnostics.

Data Link Connector

OBD2 came about in 1996 because of the Environmental Protection Agencys Clean Air Act. Prior to that, the on-board diagnostic system was not standardized and each manufacturer had its own system of diagnostics accessed through a data link connector mounted somewhere on the vehicle. Access the OBD system on your 1992 Bronco through the DLC located in the engine compartment. The DLC is mounted on the driver-side wheelwell on the front side of the shock tower.

The 2005 Ford F150 4X4 features four-corner shock suspension. Some higher end models of the F150 manufactured between 2004 to 2008 use a strut assembly in the front, but still use shocks in the rear. The difference between shocks and struts is that the shock is a separate component from the coil spring.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the 2005 Ford F150 4X4.

2

Access the top of the shock absorber through the front wheel wells. If necessary, start the truck and turn the steering wheel to manipulate the tires for better access to the respective shocks.

3

Place a box end wrench on the upper shock retaining nut. Hold the stem shaft of the shock with a smaller box-end wrench.

4

Hold the stem shaft stationary and turn the upper shock retaining nut counterclockwise. Once the nut has broken free, flip the wrench on the retaining nut over to the open-end side to make the removal of the nut easier. Remove the nut, upper washer and rubber bushing from the stem shaft.

5

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the other front shock.

6

Hoist the front of the F150 up with a jack and support the front axle on jack stands.

7

Hold the lower shock bolt head with a wench while turning the nut on the other side of the bolt counterclockwise with another wrench. If necessary, place the nut back onto the bolt and tap it with a hammer to loosen it up. Remove the bolt and the shock absorber. Repeat for the other front shock.

8

Place the lower washers and rubber bushings on the stem shaft of the replacement shocks.

9

Insert the shock up through the coil spring and align the stem shaft with the upper shock mounting bracket. Hold the shock in place while replacing the lower shock bolt. Compress the shock if necessary so the bottom of the shock will align with the lower shock mounting bracket and the lower bolt hole. Tighten the lower bolt and nut with a wrench and a torque wrench set at 75 foot-pounds.

10

Lower the front axle of the truck back to the ground, using the jack to lift it. Remove the jack stands.

11

Place the upper rubber bushings and upper washers on the stem shaft of each shock. Again, hold the stem shaft stationary with a wrench while tightening up the shock retaining nut with another. Tighten the nut until the washer compresses the upper rubber bushing.

If you notice your Mercedes A class car is projecting less light than usual, you might have a burned out headlamp. A failed headlamp makes it harder for you to see at night and can also land you in trouble with the law. Replacing the headlamps on your A class is a simple procedure that requires no tools or expertise.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Mercedes A Class and ensure the light selector switch is in the off position. Let the headlamps cool for several minutes if the vehicle has been running with the lights on. Headlamps operate at high temperatures and can burn you if you do not allow them to cool.

2

Remove the washer fluid reservoir to gain access to the drivers side headlamp. Twist the reservoir counterclockwise to release it from the mount, then pull straight up. Carefully set it to the side on a level surface to prevent fluid from leaking. This step is not needed for the passenger side headlamp.

3

Release the retaining lug by pressing down, then remove the outer housing.

4

Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise and pull it straight out to remove it from the headlight assembly.

5

Remove the bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out. Be careful not to strike the bulb against any hard objects or it might shatter. Insert the new bulb in its place.

6

Carefully insert the bulb assembly into the headlamp housing. Lock it in place by rotating the bulb clockwise.

7

Flip the retaining hub up to lock the bulb in place.

The Ford Motor Company introduced the F-Series "Full-Size" pick-up truck line in 1948. The new F-Series was designed with a smooth body layout and a one-piece windshield. The original line of F-Series trucks offered the American automotive consumer two different engine configurations as power-plant options. Over the next six decades, the F-Series line has remained one of the top-rated, highest-selling pick-up truck lines in North America with the F-150 consistently rating in the top 10 of sales by full-line vehicle manufactures. Maintaining the F-150 at factory scheduled maintenance intervals will extend the life of power-train components thus reducing the need for a major power-train overhaul. In the event of ring and pinion failure, replacing the ring and pinion is performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

Ring and Pinion Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the vehicles battery.

2

Raise the rear of the vehicle using a jack.

3

Place one jack-stand behind each rear wheel, under the rear axle.

4

Lower the rear of the vehicle onto the jack-stands. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported. Remove the jack.

5

Remove the rear wheels from the brake drums using a lug-nut wrench. Set the rear wheels aside.

6

Place a drain pan under the rear axle housing assembly.

7

Loosen the 10 axle housing cover retaining bolts using a socket wrench and socket. Allow the rear axle lubricant to completely drain.

8

Remove the 10 housing cover retaining bolts and the housing cover. Set the retaining bolts and housing cover aside.

9

Remove the housing cover gasket from the rear axle assembly using a gasket scraper. Make sure all of the gasket material is completely removed.

10

Locate the 10 ring gear retaining bolts in the left side of the rear axle housing. The 10 ring gear retaining bolts run through the slip-differential into the ring-gear.

11

Remove the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Set the retaining bolts aside.

12

Pull the pinion shaft straight out of the rear axle housing by hand. Set the pinion shaft aside.

13

Pull the ring gear off of slip-differential and out of the rear axle housing assembly by hand. Set the ring gear aside.

Ring and Pinion Installation

14

Insert the ring into the rear axle housing assembly. Make sure the teeth on the ring are facing to the right side. Line up the retaining bolt holes in the ring gear to the bolt holes in the slip-differential.

15

Push the ring gear onto the slip-differential.

16

Insert the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing assembly with the pinion teeth facing the ring gear. Push the pinion shaft into the rear axle housing until the pinion shaft is fully seated. Rotate the left rear wheel assembly if necessary to line up the teeth on the ring gear and pinion shaft.

17

Install the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using an open-end wrench. Tighten the 10 ring gear retaining bolts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

18

Wipe a small amount of rear axle lubricant onto the gasket surface of the housing assembly. Install a new housing gasket. Make sure the retaining bolt holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the housing.

19

Install the rear axle housing cover and 10 housing cover retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts using a cross-hatch pattern and a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level. Using a cross-hatch pattern ensures the rear axle housing cover is evenly seated on the rear axle housing.

20

Remove the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Fill the rear axle housing with rear axle lubricant until the lubricant is level with the fill-plug hole.

21

Install the rear axle housing lubricant-fill-plug using a socket wrench and socket. Make sure the fill-plug is evenly seated in the rear axle housing.

22

Install the rear wheels onto the rear brake drums. Tighten the lug-nuts using a torque wrench to the manufactures recommended torque level.

23

Raise the rear of the vehicle off of the jack-stands. Remove the jack-stands. Lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

24

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicles battery.

Piston rings keep oil from entering the combustion chamber of a combustion engine. Piston rings wear over time and will begin to allow oil to burn along with fuel. Blue smoke emitting from the tailpipe of your vehicle signifies burning oil and worn piston rings. New piston rings fit snugly against an engines cylinder walls. Installing tight fitting rings requires a piston ring compressor to keep the rings from catching on the upper lip of the cylinder wall and breaking during installation.

Instructions

1

Coat the installed piston rings and the inside of a piston ring compressor with 10W30 motor oil.

2

Push the latch located on the side of the piston ring compressor away from the tool.

3

Spin the piston rings to stagger the ring seams. Slide the ring compressor over the top of the piston. Push the latch towards the side of the compressor.

4

Select a socket from a socket set that matches the size of the bolt located on the side of the piston ring compressor. Attach the socket to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.

5

Turn the bolt clockwise until the compressor sits tight against the sides of the piston.

6

Slide the piston rod into the combustion cylinder until the compressor sits on top of the engine block.

7

Tap on the top of the piston with the wooden handle of a hammer until the piston rests inside of the combustion cylinder and no part of the piston remains in the piston ring compressor.

The starter solenoid in your Ford serves to convert the relatively low voltage from the battery to high voltage in order to start the engine. If you are having problems turning on the engine, you may be considering having your local service center replace the solenoid. Before you do that, test the solenoid to make sure you dont have a bad battery. Its job you can do yourself even if you dont have technical knowledge.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine, remove the ignition key, engage the parking brake and raise the hood. Connect a voltmeter to the battery to test the charge.

2

Connect the red and black leads from the voltmeter to the batterys red and black terminals. Look at the display for the volt reading. If you have less than a 12-volt reading, replace the battery or charge it with a battery charger.

3

Locate the starter which should be next to the engine on the right side. The starter is the small black box with a wire coming out of it.

4

Locate the grounding cable coming from the starter. If you see rust, or that the grounding cable is disconnected, clean it with a rust cleaner and reconnect it to the grounding bracket on the right of the starter.

5

Use your voltmeter to get a reading from the two wires coming from the starter solenoid and going to the battery. If you do not get a 12-volt reading from the starter wires, you need to replace the starter.

Particularly in automotive applications, circular grinding and sanding is necessary to design and maintain engine parts. For example, cylinder barrels of an engine need to be smoothed to just the right shape so the piston and piston rings dont create friction against the barrel walls. For large-production operations, honing machines perform this service on the manufactured parts. The machines come in different capacities and types.

How Honing Machines Work

Honing machines take the concept of hone grinding and automate it. Whereas normally a technician would attach a honing tool to the end of a spinning drill and insert it into the treated part, the honing machine performs this function on a mass scale with computer-driven equipment. The result is a precise internal surface to a circular cavity. The system is run either with pneumatic or hydraulic power sources.

Types

Vertical honing machines allow grinding work to form either an above-down or bottom-up angle. This works well for parts that have a single-directional cavity, such as engine cylinders. Horizontal honing machines, as the name implies, work from the sides with adjustable angles that allow the machine to work in a horizontal fashion. More specialized units can work with other, less common angles and applications.

Machine Management

Modern machines are run by computers and electronic gauges outside the machine. These control units run with computers and predetermined tolerance limits. The user punches in the desired specifications and the machine operates accordingly. When the machine reaches the desired tolerances or measurements, then the honing process stops so the treated part can be removed.

Cooling Systems

Grinding involves friction, which can create significant heat at high speeds or over time. Cooling systems are integrated into honing machines to avoid heat buildup that can damage machine parts. Modern machines will have coolant pumped into the grinding tool to circulate heat buildup away while production is occurring.

Maintenance

Because honing machines involve grinding, quite a bit of dust, residue and metal debris gets kicked up. This leftover material can get all over the machine and work area. Called "swarf," honing machines need to be cleaned of the waste material regularly. Honing machines also come with air filters that need to be changed regularly to rid swarf buildup near air vents. The honing oil that helps lubricate the machine parts and grease points of the machines gearing need to cleaned out and re-lubed as well.

The remote for the Odyssey DVD player that is built into Honda automobiles is smaller than most hand-held remotes, but functionally it is the same as those used to control DVD players and television sets. To replace a lost Odyssey remote, acquire a universal remote from an electronics store and program it with the codes that will enable it to control the Odyssey.

Instructions

1

Put batteries in the universal remote.

2

Locate the code for the Honda Odyssey DVD player in the list provided with the universal remote; the list may be found in an instruction manual or on the manufacturers website, or at a website that specializes in providing codes for various devices to universal remotes (see Resources). Memorize the code.

3

Press the "DVD" button on the universal remote. Press and hold the "Setup" or "Program" button, depending upon the remotes manufacturer. Release the button when the buttons on the remote blink twice.

4

Press the numeric keys on the universal remote to enter the number that you memorized. The buttons will now blink twice again. If the buttons do not blink, let 10 seconds pass before repeating the entire procedure again.

5

Press the "DVD" button on the universal remote. Insert a DVD into the front loading slot of the Odyssey DVD player. Press the "Play" button on the universal remote to start playing the DVD.

The Sunnen VGS-20 is a valve guide and seat machine manufactured by the Sunnen Products company. It has several uses in the repair and rebuilding of automotive engines, such as enlarging intake and exhaust valves. The Sunnen VGS-20 and other machines of the same type are commonly used in professional machine shops.

Size and Weight

The VGS-20 weighs 1272 lbs (580 kg). It measures 57 inches (1450mm) in width by 36 inches (915mm) in depth by 78 inches (1982mm) in height.

Electricity Requirements

The VGS-20 requires 208/230 volts at 50Hz or 60Hz, with a maximum current of 12.2 amperes.

Air Requirements

The VGS-20 requires a compressed airflow of four cubic feet per minute at 100 PSI.

Speed

The VGS-20 has a speed range of 20 to 420 RPM.

Although it does not happen very often, from time to time the differential in a rear wheel drive car will fail and the ring gear will need replacement. Replacing the ring gear is a job normally left to professional technicians because of the tools and knowledge needed to measure the precise tolerances during reassembly. However, a do-it-yourselfer with some advanced skills can do the job at home.

Instructions

Preparing the Vehicle

1

Place a wheel chock in front of each of the front tires. Center the lifting pad of a floor jack under the differential. Jack up the vehicle until the floor deck supports the weight of the vehicle, and the rear wheels are still in contact with the ground.

2

Turn the lug nuts, which hold the tires to the vehicle, counterclockwise with a lug wrench to loosen them. Just loosen the lug nuts, do not remove them.

3

Jack up the vehicle with the floor jack until the tires are no longer are in contact with the ground. Place a jack stand under each axle tube and lower the vehicle so that the rear axle tubes rests on the jack stands. Adjust the jack stands high enough that the rear wheels are still off the ground when the vehicle is resting on them by pulling the ratcheting center post of each jack stand up as close to the axle tube as it will go.

4

Remove the lug nuts and tires from the vehicle.

Removing the Axle Shafts

5

Place a drain pan underneath the differential. Turn the differential cover bolts counterclockwise using the appropriate size socket on a ratchet wrench. Drive a screwdriver between the cover and the differential by gently tapping it with a hammer to break the seal, and remove the differential cover allowing the gear lube in the differential to drain into the drain pan.

6

Turn the bolt that secures the cross pin counterclockwise with the ratchet wrench and appropriate size socket to remove it. Remove the cross pin.

7

Push each axle shaft in from the outside and remove the C-clip from the other end of each axle shaft. Remove the axle shafts from the vehicle by pulling them straight out from the outside.

Removing the Ring Gear

8

Make an identification mark on each of the carrier caps with the center punch and hammer to ensure the carrier caps are reassembled in their original positions.

9

Remove the upper and lower bolts from each carrier cap and remove the caps. Remove the carrier and ring gear assembly from the differential.

10

Turn the bolts that attach the ring gear to the carrier counterclockwise with a ratchet wrench and appropriate socket to remove them. Remove the ring gear, completing the operation.

The Acura RL is a full-size luxury car that has been in production since 1996, with the first generation including model years 1996 through 2004. Power side mirrors are a standard feature on the Acura RL, and the procedure for removing them is the same for both mirrors. The most common reason for removing one of these units is to replace a broken mirror. The primary part of this procedure is removing the interior door panel.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent a short circuit or electrical shock during the procedure. Detach the delta cover for the mirror mount from the door panel and remove the retaining screw under the cover.

2

Pop out the caps covering the retaining screws on the armrest with a trim remover, and remove the screws from the armrest with a socket wrench. Detach the armrest from the door.

3

Remove the retaining screw for the cover surrounding the inner door handle using a socket wrench. Detach the cover from the door handle. Insert a door handle removal tool between the handle and door panel. Push the tool against the spring clip to free the handle from the door panel.

4

Pry off the panel plastic inserts from the door using a trim removal tool. Lift the panel up to detach its lip from the top of the door, using a gentle up and down motion if necessary. Disconnect all electrical wiring behind the door panel, and remove the panel from the door.

5

Squeeze the connectors together to release the wiring harness from the outside mirror assembly. Disconnect the three retaining screws from the mirror assembly with a socket wrench, and remove the mirror from the vehicle.

You need to reset the check engine light on your Dodge after you have had regular service or after youve replaced an electronic component that caused the light to go on. In addition, the computer code needs to be cleared so that it can function properly.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover on your Dodge. This is located on the dash under or near the steering column. Pull down on the panel using your fingers.

2

Look for the port within the fuse panel that looks like it will fit the connector end of your diagnostic reset tool. This tool can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer.

3

Plug the connector into the port.

4

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Wait for the blinking light on the reset tool to turn off. Look on the instrument panel of the Dodge to see that the engine light has turned off as well.

Daimler Chrysler Corporation issued a safety recall for the Jeep Patriot in May, 2007. The recall was to fix a problem in the rear disc-brakes, which did not meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard requirements. Technicians discovered the hub mounting bolts that secure the rear wheel could affect use of the parking brake.

Recall Remedy

Car dealerships handling the 2007 Jeep Patriot were authorized to replace the mounting bolts on the rear wheels. Mechanics inspected the parking brake and made necessary repairs. The cost was born by Daimler Chrysler.

What Might Have Happened

Failure address the brake problem raised the danger of unintended vehicle movement leading to a crash while the car was driven. Patriot drivers encountering this problem were advised to let off the gas and shift the car into neutral gear. Drivers were asked to let the vehicle coast to a stop or as near as possible before applying the brakes, according to Cody Larson, a certified service technician at Dale Auto Body & Repair in Aurora, South Dakota.

Buying a Used 2007 Jeep Patriot

The recall was made in May of 2007, not too long after the Patriot was put on the market. Dealers with 2007 Jeep Patriots on their lots were required to complete the recall repairs before selling the vehicle.

When a 2007 Jeep Patriot is traded in, it is the responsibility of the dealer taking possession of the vehicle to verify recall repairs were made. It never hurts a potential buyer to ask the seller if recall repairs were made, or have the repairs verified by a certified mechanic.

The Volkswagen, or VW, Golf is a small family car that has been in production since 1974. The 1997 model belongs to the third generation of this series, which VW manufactured from 1991 to 1999. The fuel system in a 1997 VW Golf uses a small transfer pump, or sending unit, in the fuel tank to move the fuel out of the tank. The procedure for removing the fuel sending unit is generally the same for most VW cars made from 1993 to 1999.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and support it safely on jack stands.

2

Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box under the dashboard, using the list on the fuse box as a guide. Start the engine, and allow it to idle until it stalls from fuel starvation.

3

Turn the ignition off, and disconnect the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench. Wrap a clean shop rag around a connection on the fuel line to soak up spilled fuel. Loosen the connection with a socket wrench to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Tighten the fuel connection, and replace the fuse for the fuel pump.

4

Remove the rear seat from the vehicle, and disconnect the access cover under the seat with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical connector and fuel lines from the fuel sending unit.

5

Turn the retaining ring for the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and remove it from the fuel sending unit. Pull the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank, and empty the fuel in the sending unit into a container approved for gasoline. Discard the gaskets for the fuel sending unit.

6

Mount new gaskets to the new fuel sending unit, and install the sending unit in the fuel tank. Fasten the retaining ring to the sending unit with a socket wrench. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring to the fuel sending unit. Fasten the access cover for the fuel sending unit, and replace the rear seat.

7

Connect the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench, and lower the vehicle.

The 1969 Chevy Camaro is one of the legendary muscle cars. The Camaro was Chevys competitive answer to the Ford Mustang. The Camaro was born in September 1966, when Chevy offered the first 1967 model Camaro for sale. The first-generation Camaro ran from 1967 through 1969. The Camaro appealed to many, and it came equipped with an inline six-cylinder engine for the grocery-getter crowd and a big-block Chevy engine for the muscle car lovers. The car was a unitized body construction with a bolt on front stub. The car also became immensely popular as a short-track stock car.

Instructions

1

Park the Camaro on a solid, level surface. Block the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels a half-turn, but dont remove them.

2

Place a floor jack under the front center frame of the car, and raise the front wheels off the ground. Remove the front wheels. Insert wooden blocks under the lower A-arms, and lower the jack to bring the car down onto the blocks.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the upper ball joint. Loosen and remove the large castle nut from the upper ball joint.

4

Grind the rivet heads off the four rivets that mount the ball joint to the upper A-arm. After grinding off the rivet heads, the pin circle of the rivet will appear. Use a punch smaller than the rivet pin circle to punch the rivet out of the upper A-arm.

5

Insert a ball joint pickle fork between the top of the spindle and the ball joint. Strike the rear shaft of the pickle fork with a hammer to free the ball joint taper of the spindle. Swing up the upper A-arm, and remove the old ball joint.

6

Install the new ball joint and the rubber boot into the upper A-arm, using the included bolts instead of rivets. Tighten the four small bolts and lock nuts that secure the ball joint to the A-arm. Align the ball joints tapered shaft with the upper spindle hole, and push the shaft into the spindle. Insert the castle nut onto the ball joint shaft, and tighten it. Insert the cotter pin through the castle nut, and spread the cotter pin so it stays in place. Thread the grease zerk into the ball joint.

7

Jack up the Camaro, put the front wheels back on the car, and tighten all the lug nuts. Lower the car to the ground.

Catalytic converters are probably the single most expensive item on your car by weight. These emissions-control devices contain several different kinds of precious metals including platinum, rhodium and palladium. Palladium values at about $730 per ounce, which helps to justify the massive investment required to extract it. Odds are you wont be getting into the palladium extraction business unless your name is Gates, Branson or Buffett, but you can at least make some friendly discussion by discoursing on the particulars of carbochlorination and palldium precipitation through aqua regia immersion.

Instructions

1

Remove the ceramic matrix from the center of the catalytic converter and place it into a sealed oven capable of heating it to 800 degrees Celsius (1,472 degrees Fahrenheit).

2

Pump into the oven and through your ceramic matrix material in a pure chlorine gas (Cl2) atmosphere containing equal amounts of aerosolized silicon tetrachloride (Si-Cl4) and aerosolized Aluminum chloride (Al-Cl3) powder pre-heated to 800C. Circulate the gas through the ceramic matrix for 30 minutes, and use a silica crystal filter to catch the crystallized metals in the gas stream.

3

Repeat Step 2 using only the chlorine gas atmosphere and aluminum chloride, but this time raise the temperature to 1,000C and circulate for six hours. At this point, effectively all of the precious metals should have been leached out of the converters ceramic core, bonded to the aluminum dioxide and deposited as a crystalline buildup on your filter.

4

Drop your crystalline filter into a solution of the powerful corrosive aqua regia, also known as nitro-hydrochloric acid. This amazing acid was fist discovered by 17th century alchemists, and is one of the few substances on Earth that will dissolve platinum, palladium, rhodium, gold, titanium and iridium. Allow the metal-infused filter to sit until the aqua regia dissolves all of the metal crystals.

5

Pour the mixture through a one-micron filter into a separate container. Add mercuric cyanide to the mixture. The mercuric cyanide will bond with the palladium in the aqua regia to precipitate crystals of pure palladium cyanide. Pass the mixture once more through a one-micron filter to collect the crystals, but keep the fluid for further refining of other metals.

6

Allow the crystals time to dry completely. Ignite the volatile crystals to break the cyanides nitrogen/carbon bonds to the palladium, and recover the cyanide to recycle it for further recovery. This will leave you with a silvery-white puddle of molten metal; behold, for this is your palladium.

Replacing the battery cables on your 1993 Dodge Spirit may be necessary if the wires have bare spots on them, have melted from contact with hot engine parts or are broken within the wire casings. Replacement cables are available from the Dodge dealer as a direct replacement, or from auto parts stores in universal styles with differing lengths. The 1993 Spirit left the factory with either a 2.5-liter or a 3.0-liter engine option, though the replacement process for the cables is the same on either engine package.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Spirit and locate the battery on the passengers side of the engine compartment. Loosen the clamp bolt on the negative battery cable end with a wrench, then lift it off the battery.

2

Follow the negative battery cable to the engine block on the passengers side of the engine. Locate and remove the bolt holding the cable to the engine block, using a wrench. Save the bolt and remove the cable from the engine compartment.

3

Loosen the clamp bolt on the positive battery cable end, using a wrench, then remove the cable from the battery. Follow the cable down to the starter solenoid on the starter, mounted on the passengers side of the engine.

4

Remove the retaining bolt securing the cable to the solenoid, using a wrench, then pull the cable out of the engine compartment. Route the new positive battery cable along the engine to the starter solenoid and secure it to the terminal from where youve removed the old cable. Tighten the nut with a bolt until it is snug, but do not over-tighten it or you will crack the solenoid housing.

5

Place the battery cable end of the new positive battery cable on the positive battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until it is snug.

6

Route the new negative battery cable along the engine and attach the end with the brass eyelet to the block, in place of the old cable, using the bolt that youve removed when disconnecting the old cable. Tighten the bolt with a wrench.

7

Connect the battery terminal end of the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Tighten the clamp bolt with a wrench until the cable is secure.

The 1993 Toyota Camry base model came with the 2.2-Liter In-line four-cylinder 5S-FE engine. The exhaust manifold is attached to the cylinder head and routes toward the bottom of the engine, where it connects to the exhaust down pipe. There are no special tools required to remove the manifold; however, the six manifold mounting nuts, exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust pipe gasket all need to be replaced when installing the exhaust manifold to the engine and exhaust down pipe.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the vehicle hood and support it with the hood prop rod. Lift the vehicle into the air with the floor jack. Place jack stands under the front frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Lie down under the vehicle. Unplug the oxygen sensor wire harness from the oxygen sensor by squeezing on the plug and pulling it apart from the oxygen sensor pigtail without pulling on the wires.

3

Remove the nuts and bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the exhaust down pipe with the socket and ratchet. Remove the exhaust pipe gasket and dispose of it.

4

Remove the the six bolts that hold the upper heat shield to the exhaust manifold. Remove the heat shield. Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts with the socket and ratchet and ratchet extension. Remove both exhaust manifold stays with the socket and ratchet. Remove the bolts securing the lower heat shield to the exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Pull the exhaust manifold from the engine and discard the engine-to-manifold gasket.

Installation

5

Remove any leftover gasket material from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold with the gasket remover and razor blade, if necessary. Set the new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifold mounting studs on the cylinder head.

6

Set the exhaust manifold onto the mounting studs on the cylinder head. Hand tighten the new mounting nuts to help hold the manifold in place. Install the lower heat shield mounting bolts and tighten with the socket and ratchet.

7

Set both manifold stays into place and hand tighten the nut a bolt. Tighten the nut and bolt for each stay to 31 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

8

Lie under the vehicle. Set a new exhaust pipe gasket onto the exhaust pipe and attach the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten the mounting nuts to 46 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Plug the oxygen sensor wiring harness into the oxygen sensor pigtail.

9

Tighten the exhaust manifold to cylinder head mounting nuts to 36 foot-pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Set the exhaust manifold upper heat shield into place and tighten the bolts with the a ratchet.

10

Shut the vehicle hood. Lift the vehicle off the jack stands with the floor jack. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

The automatic transmission in a 1999 Toyota Camry connects to the back of the engine, from which it delivers power to the wheels. The transmission keeps the engine operating at the speed at which it can develop its most efficient power. The transmission also moves the vehicle in reverse and disconnects the engine from the wheels in its neutral and park positions. The automatic transmission found in front-wheel-drive vehicles like the Camry is also called a transaxle.

Torque Converter

The torque converter, also called the torque converter clutch, mounts on the flywheel of the engine and provides an indirect link between the engine and the transmission. This link allows you to stop the vehicle and keep the engine idling without stalling. In the past, the torque converter continuously slipped during driving, causing less efficient operation. In the Camry, the torque converter has a lockup mode that operates while the vehicle travels at cruising speed. This mode prevents the torque converter from slipping, which increases operating efficiency.

Planetary Gears

Planetary gears consist of a system of gears with three parts. They have an outer ring gear --- a ring with teeth inside it. Three small gears, called planets, engage the teeth inside of the ring at opposite thirds of the ring gear, where they mesh with a third gear in the center called a sun gear. The transmission input shaft applies power to a component of the planetary gears. The band or brake holds one part from turning. The third component then turns, supplying power output to the output shaft. In one mode of operation, for example, the transmission input clutch applies power to the outer ring gear. A band holds the planet gears in place; the sun gear then turns, driving the output shaft. The component receiving the power and the output component vary depending on the gear ratio needed.

Clutches and Bands

The clutches and bands provide the holding and power application to the planetary gears. Bands activated by hydraulic pistons operate as brakes, squeezing a section of the planetary gears to stop them. The clutches consist of cylinders containing disks that, when pressurized with hydraulic fluid, lock in place to apply power as needed to the planetary gears. The 1999 Camry has forward and direct clutches, as well as three bands --- also called brakes.

Valve Body

The valve body consists of a series of passageways that allow hydraulic fluid to pass through to the clutches and pistons as needed. A solenoid valve releases hydraulic fluid into the valve body passages. The paths connect to various places in the transmission that require fluid pressure at different times. The 1999 Camry has two solenoid valves located in the valve body.

Other Components

The transmission has an oil pump that provides the pressure to make the hydraulic system operate correctly. Multiple seals and gaskets prevent the oil from leaking and to keep it flowing where it needs to go. Most modern transmissions also have multiple electronic components controlled by the power train control module.

Many people lack the knowledge in knowing the difference between marine and car engines. The main difference occurs because of the environment each engine functions within -- water for the marine engine and the road for the regular passenger car. Generally, boat engines have more complexity and modifications, which allow them to hold up better under harsher circumstances. A number of systems and components have been added or modified in boat engines to boost their performance, ensure safety and resist the corrosive effects of water.

Cooling Systems

The water-circulating pump on a marine engine functions in an "open" cooling system where the pump draws raw or outside water into the engine, unlike a "closed" cooling system in a car engine, which has anti-freeze or coolant constantly contained. The marine engine expels incoming water overboard through an exhaust port when it finishes with it. Marine pump impellers usually have a ceramic seal, a backing plate of stainless steel and a bronze or rubber impeller that resists corrosion from fresh or saltwater. Car water pumps have regular steel impellers that would corrode in a marine environment.

Electrical Systems

Car engines typically expel fuel vapors from the engine compartment to the outside air through numerous openings in the chassis. Boats have sealed engine compartments, which hold fuel vapors within a closed engine box or engine room. A boat engine has special seals, insulation and extra vents on the starter, distributor and alternator. Boats have bilge ventilator fans to evacuate dangerous fuel vapors in the engine compartment -- a procedure used before starting the boat engine. Boat engines risk explosion from any stray or leaking spark.

Fuel Systems

Most boat engines come equipped with carburetors that have J-type fuel bowls. These bowls have special features and construction that allow for heavy vibrating, pitching up and down and yawing from side to side. Otherwise the fuel would be splashed out of the fuel barrels. Car carburetors typically have box-like or round fuel bowls that keep the fuel level constant for the lesser angles that the car experiences during driving.

Power and Torque

Boat engines have to deliver most of their power or torque during the lower end of the throttle range. Therefore they use a single forward transmission gear to propel the boat from a standing stop to full throttle. The boat engine camshaft lobes are ground to increase horsepower at lower levels, rather than high rpm. Boat engine valves must be timed to shorten the overlap between the exhaust and intake when they open at the same time. Otherwise water can be drawn back into the combustion chamber from the exhaust, severely damaging the engine.

Engine Construction

Boat engines use heavier constructed truck engine blocks, which have crankshafts held by a four-bolt main cap system. Car engines typically have two-bolt main caps, since they experience less stress and power demands. This means that the boat engine main bearings, rod bearings and camshaft bearings will be heavier in construction. A boat engine does not have the luxury of cruising over a hard surface like a car engine; boat engines always perform under constant load, putting more stress on the main engine parts.

Exhaust systems

Many boat engines have "wet" exhaust manifolds. A wet exhaust manifold has a regular manifold which has ports to expel burnt exhaust gases, but also has an internal water pipe that cools the exhaust gases so they do not reach critically high temperatures. Boat exhaust manifolds reach higher temperatures than car exhaust manifolds because of their enclosed nature and need to run much harder under load. Car exhaust manifolds run much cooler because of the incoming air drafts that circulate inside the engine compartment.

Gaskets

Boat engine gaskets have special, high-quality construction that make them resistant to higher temperatures and saltwater corrosion. They must also seal better than car engine gaskets, since they exist in a water environment where moisture causes heavy rust and deterioration.

Most riders call it "that Harley sound": the loud, rumbling exhaust that lets you know there is a Harley-Davidson motorcycle around. The stock pipes that come on a Harley are designed to meet federal EPA standards and dont deliver the sound most riders want. Replacing the stock exhaust can be expensive. You can create the sound if you make the Harley baffles louder. Baffles are the packing inside the rear of a motorcycle exhaust pipe that filters and dampens the noise.

Instructions

1

Park your Harley on a level surface. If you have ridden it recently, let it sit until the exhaust pipes are cool to the touch.

2

Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the end caps out of the exhaust pipes. The end caps are metal caps with a hole in the center that have been machine-pressed in to the ends. Insert your screwdriver into the center hole, and pry against the edge of the pipe until it pops free. You will then see the metal screed that covers the baffle.

3

Drill a hole through the center of the baffle. Use a drill with a metal bit that is 1 inch in diameter. Press the tip against the screen of the baffle, and press the drill into it while running it at a slow and steady speed. Push the drill into the baffle the entire length of the bit. This will place a direct hole through the screens and packing of the baffle and open it.

Charging a 7 amp hour (AH) sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a 10AH charger can be done, but it is detrimental to the health of your battery. Charging a battery with the wrong charger results in overcharging or undercharging.

Amp Hours

The capacity of a 7AH battery is significantly less than a 10AH battery. Since the 10AH battery holds a greater capacity, its charger provides an increased electrical flow. Using a 10AH charger with a 7AH battery results in overcharging. Unplugging the battery early results in undercharging.

Overcharging

Overcharging is caused by thermal runaway. Increased voltage will decompose the water in the electrolytes of the battery. Overheating occurs, allowing more voltage to enter the battery. Overcharging ages batteries very quickly.

Undercharging

Undercharging occurs when lower voltage is applied to a battery. Charging ends early and lead sulfate adheres to the electrodes. Due to the remaining lead sulfate, capacity is reduced. Removing a battery early also results in an incomplete charge. The risk of residual lead sulfate damage is still present. Charge your batteries completely to avoid diminished capacity.

The Toyota Sienna is a minivan with front-wheel drive. The 2006 model is a second-generation Sienna, which features a six-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It uses a timing belt to ensure that the cylinders fire at the correct point in their cycle. The replacement of the timing belt is part of normal vehicle maintenance, as this part wears out periodically.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from unintentionally starting the engine during the timing belt replacement.

2

Disconnect the windshield wiper arm assemblies with a socket wrench. Remove the cowl panel and its seal. Detach the windshield washer hose, and disconnect the cowl top louvers. Unplug the electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor and disconnect the cowl top panel.

3

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Remove the bolts for the accessory drive belt and remove the drive belt. Detach the electrical connector for the alternator and loosen the mounting bolts for the alternator. Remove the alternator.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the power steering pump and remove its drive belt. Detach the coolant reservoir hose. Disconnect the diagnostic link connector from the No. 2 right mounting bracket for the engine. Disconnect the engines right mounting stay, moving control rod and No. 2 right mounting bracket.

5

Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley with tools 09213-54015, 91651-60855 and 09330-00021. Pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with tools 09950-50011, 09952-5010, 09953-05010, 09953-05020 and 09954-05020.

6

Disconnect the lower cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Remove the guide for the timing belt from the crankshaft. Release the clamps on the the upper timing belt cover and disconnect the upper timing belt cover. Remove the right mounting brace for the engine. Install the bolt for the crankshaft pulley temporarily.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket with the notch on the oil pump. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing belt and the timing belt.

8

Install the new timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, left camshaft sprocket, No. 2 idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and No. 1 idler pulley in that order. Push the pushrod into the housing for the timing belt tensioner with vertical press 98,1-9807 to align the holes in the tensioner housing. Place a 1.27mm Allen wrench to hold the pushrod in place and release the vertical press.

9

Install the tensioner for the timing belt and tighten the mounting bolts to 20 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Remove the Allen wrench from the housing on the belt tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete turns so that the timing marks align.

10

Remove the bolt for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Connect the right mounting bracket for the engine and tighten its bolts to 21 ft. lbs with a socket wrench. Install the upper cover for the timing belt and connect the guide for the timing belt so that its cup side faces down. Connect the lower cover for the timing belt.

11

Install the crankshaft pulley with tools 09213-54015, 91651-60855 and 09330-00021. Tighten the mounting bolts to 159 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Perform steps one through four in reverse order to install the additional components. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

The 2002 Chrysler Town and Country uses an integrated two-filament headlight to supply both low and high beams in one unit. The halogen headlight lights at excessive temperatures from the internal gases inside the bulb. Consequently, contact with the glass with hands, perspiration or dirt will damage the bulb. Avoid contact with the replacement bulb or clean the bulb with distilled alcohol and a clean cloth. The procedure to replace the bulb in the Town and Country is the same as the Dodge Grand Caravan.

Instructions

1

Park the Town and Country on a level surface, apply the parking brake, make sure the headlight switch is off and open the hood.

2

Locate the three upper headlight assembly retaining bolts on top of the assembly support bracket. They form a triangular pattern with two of the bolts on top of the inboard side of the assembly and the last one near the outer corner of the assembly near the directional light.

3

Remove the three bolts with the socket wrench.

4

Pull the headlight assembly forward and rest it on a clean shop rag on the front bumper. The rag will help prevent scratching the bumper.

5

Disconnect the electrical connector behind the headlight assembly that plugs into the headlight socket. Use the screwdriver to gently lift upward on the locking clip (at the top of the plug) of the plug and pull the connector away from the socket.

6

Turn the headlight retaining collar counter-clockwise to remove it and access the headlight. Pull the headlight out of the headlight assembly.

7

Place the 9007 automotive replacement bulb into the headlight assembly (being careful not to touch the glass bulb). Align the three notches on the socket base of the headlight to the three grooves in the headlight assembly and then replace the retaining collar (turning it clockwise to lock it into place).

8

Test the headlight for operation before reinstalling the headlight assembly and retaining bolts.

Sifton oil pumps are available for all Harley models for all years after 1935. Flatheads, Knuckleheads, Panheads and Shovelheads manufactured before 1980 may require crankcase modification. Good shop practice for Sifton installation on Harley-Davidson motorcycles manufactured between 1948 and 1962 requires the installer to plug and re-drill the crankshaft feed hole. Installation on models manufactured in the 1970s requires the installer to drill a pressure valve relief hole. Installation of a Sifton oil pump on Panheads manufactured from 1965 to 1969 requires the installer to drill a primary chain oil supply hole.

Instructions

1

Fit the pump assembly to the crankcase and inspect to ensure clearance between the oil pump body and crankcase. Improve clearance by carefully grinding down the oil pump body with a grinding tool.

2

Disassemble, clean and inspect the oil pump. Use combination wrenches to disassemble the oil pump. Reassemble the pump dry without lubrication.

3

Rotate the pump gears to check for binds. Confirm that drive gear keys are properly installed.

4

Determine if gears that bind are supply or return gears. Remove and rotate gears that bind 180 degrees.

5

Apply 20W50 engine oil to the oil pump drive shaft and the drive shaft bushing in the crankcase. Install the oil pump in the crankcase using combination wrenches and a flat head screwdriver. Place the pump drive gear over the drive shaft as the shaft is passed through the bushing and into the crankcase gear compartment.

6

Install the drive shaft gear key and snap ring with snap ring pliers

7

Hand tighten the two 1/4-inch x 1 1/2-inch bolts in the upper holes in the oil pump body. Attach the pump cover by hand tightening the four 1/4-inch x 2 3/4-inch bolts.

8

Turn the oil pump gear to check for binding. Tighten the four 2 3/4-inch bolts in a cross pattern to 10 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench. Check for binding after tightening each bolt.

9

Turn the drive shaft to confirm free operation of the pump. Tighten the two remaining bolts to 10 foot pounds of torque with a torque wrench.

10

Remove the oil pump check valve ball assembly by hand. Pour clean motor oil into the pump supply fitting while turning the oil pump drive gear.

11

Replace the check ball, spring and cap after oil fills the check valve cavity.

12

Install the pinion shaft drive gear, pinion gear and remaining parts in the gear case following the procedures stated in the shop manual for your year and model Harley.

13

Connect the oil lines by tightening hose clamps over the return and supply fittings with a flat head screwdriver.

Cold winter mornings can make it difficult to start your diesel engine because the engine block is cold. Heating the engine block before you start your car will warm it to its operating temperature, allowing it to start easily and letting you turn the heat on right away. Diesel engines are not the only engines that benefit from being preheated; a warm engine runs more efficiently because it does not need to heat up in the first few minutes of driving.

Instructions

Heat With a Block Heater

1

Install a block heater. Many diesel engines come already equipped with a block heater, but you can request that your mechanic install one if you do not have a diesel engine, or if your car did not come with one. It is important to buy a heater that corresponds to your engine size. You can quickly run up your electric bill with a high-wattage heater on a small engine.

2

Plug the heater cord into a heavy-duty, three-pronged extension cord. Then plug the other end into a 110-volt or higher electrical socket. You can leave it plugged in overnight, or simply plug it in a few hours before you start your car in the morning.

3

Unplug the cord when you are ready to go. Wrap the extension cord up and store it with your vehicle; dont leave it outside where it can be damaged.

Heat With a Hair Dryer

4

Plug your hair dryer into an extension cord and plug the extension cord into a nearby outlet. Hair dryers are an inexpensive alternative to heating your engine block if you do not have a block heater.

5

Lift the hood of your car and engage the support rod to hold it up.

6

Turn on the hair dryer. Start on low heat. Direct the heat toward the engine block, slowly moving the hair dryer to heat all sides of the block. Also direct air into the cars air inlet duct. Continue on this setting for three or four minutes, then turn the hair dryer up to high heat. The gradual increase of the heat will prevent the block from cracking. Continue to blow high heat for about five minutes.

7

Switch off the hair dryer and unplug it. Close your hood and start your engine.

Chrome exhaust tips add a sporty look to your car without busting your budget. On most cars, they are quite easy to install, so you can do the work yourself. Depending on your skill level and available tools, you have the choice of bolt- or weld-on exhaust tips.

Instructions

1

Buy exhaust tips that fit the diameter of your tail pipe properly. Tips from the cars manufacturer may be the best fit, as these parts are usually specific to the vehicles year, model and type. However, even within car brands, tips may not fit all cars.

2

Measure the bumper cutouts to ensure the new chrome tips fit. With the wrong-size part, you may damage the bumper, scratch the chrome or be forced to enlarge the cutout. If you decide to go with a larger-size tip, have a professional cut the bumper to avoid cracking.

3

Pick the length of your tips so that you achieve maximum curb appeal without burning pedestrians shins. Your tips should be long enough to be seen and properly vent the exhaust.

4

Install the tips when the car is cold. As you slide the tip onto the tailpipe or muffler tip, you will meet resistance, so you want to avoid having the parts expand due to the heat of the engine. In addition, you dont want to burn your fingers as you work with the tailpipe!

5

Use WD-40 to lubricate the tips as you install them. This will help the tips slide on as far as possible without excess force. You may have to use a rubber mallet to push the tip back fully. Protect the chrome parts with a towel.

6

Tighten the screws, and check for rattling. Tighten the screws again in about 2 weeks, as they will naturally loosen at first. For weld-on models, you will skip the screws, and weld the tip on for a secure fit.

Automotive mufflers come in several shapes and sizes. They vary from universal replacements to performance mufflers. Direct fit mufflers are those that best match your cars original muffler in size, shape and hanger placement.

Size

There are two elements to the size of a muffler. The first is the size of the pipe inlet and outlet. The more closely these match those of your original muffler, the easier it is to install. The second size factor is length. A direct fit muffler should be the same length as your OEM muffler.

Shape

A direct fit muffler should be the same shape as your original muffler. Whether your original is round or oval, it is designed to fit into a specific area on the underside of your vehicle.

Hanger Placement

A muffler is held in place by hangers. The direct fit muffler should have fasteners or brackets that fit the original hangers that come with your vehicle. This makes installation quick and easy, and eliminates the need for costly modifications or additional hangers.

Catalytic converters are a legally-required part of the exhaust system of every gasoline-burning vehicle in the United States. These systems clean the leftover fuel that comes through the cars exhaust and makes it less damaging to the atmosphere before it is released. When the converter malfunctions, however, it can cause your car to smoke or your check engine light to illuminate. The catalytic converter system in your Mustang GT is near the center of the car, between the engine and the mufflers. The 1996 Mustang GT has dual exhaust pipes which are routed from the muffler to the rear of the car on either side.

Instructions

1

Use a jack to raise the rear of your Mustang off the ground and secure it with jack stands. Do not attempt to repair or remove any part of the exhaust system unless you are certain the car has not been running. This system gets very hot when the engine is fired.

2

Use plastic ties or heavy duty wire to secure the exhaust pipes to the Mustangs frame. Once the catalytic converter is removed, these pipes may fall if not secured.

3

Locate the Mustangs O2 sensors. There will be one in front of the catalytic converter and one behind in Mustangs manufactured after 1995. You should only have to remove the one in front. Use an O2 sensor wrench to loosen the sensor and its connecting pipe, then remove them with your hand.

4

Use a socket set to remove the bolts in the front and rear of the catalytic converter. Sometimes this is difficult to do. If they seem frozen into place, spray a rust-breaking automotive lubricant on the bolts and allow to sit for one hour.

5

Tap the catalytic converter with a hammer, keeping one hand on the unit. If it seems to move easily, pull it out of the muffler pipe and remove it. If it does not move easily, rap it several times with the hammer until you can remove it with your hand.

It often starts with a loud popping sound while youre turning. A worn or damaged constant velocity, or CV, joint. The CV joints provide the flexibility that allows the wheels to turn. The inner CV joint is a plunging tripod joint connected to the transmission. The plunging action allows the axle to extend and contract as the suspension moves up and down. Power from the transmission transfers to the driving wheels through the axle shafts. An outer CV joint is splined to a hub on the axle. A rubber boot shields each CV joint and contains the lubricant.

Instructions

1

Put the wheels straight ahead and set the emergency brake.

2

Raise the vehicle with vehicle ramps or a sturdy jack on solid ground. Support the vehicle with jack stands, ramps or both for safety. If the vehicle falls, it can seriously damage the vehicles components. It can also seriously injure or kill anyone around or under it.

3

Remove the front wheels and disconnect the anti-lock brake system speed sensor.

4

Disconnect the cotter pin and remove the axle shaft lock nut cap. Have a second person apply the vehicles brakes and remove the axle shaft/bearing lock nut. Detach the engine undercover.

5

Drain the transmission fluid into a container while avoiding spills. Recycle the fluid by taking it to a local auto parts store. Federal law prohibits disposal in sewers, drains or on grass.

6

Disengage the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm.

7

Separate the axle shaft from the bearing hub using a hammer or puller. Use a pry bar to separate the left axle shaft from the transaxle.

8

Use your hammer and a tapping fork to separate the right axle shaft from the transaxle. Be careful. Avoid damaging the speed sensor serration on the drive shaft. Toyota recommends removing the right axle shaft and the intermediate shaft as a complete assembly.

9

Manipulate the inner CV joint. Make sure it slides smoothly in the thrust direction. Ensure radial movement is free from excessive play. The expected range is between .08 and .12 inch of play in the shaft and too tight to pull out by hand.

10

Remove the CV joint boot clamps and slide the boots away from the joint. Examine the boots. If there are signs of cracks or leakage, you must replace them.

11

Mark each component of the CV joint housings, tripod joints and shafts as re-alignment references before disassembling them. After completing the reference marks, disassemble the axle shafts.

The 2001 Pontiac Grand Am is a compact car produced by General Motors. You can reset the "Check Engine" light on your 01 Pontiac Grand Am right from your home garage. This will save you a trip to the dealer or mechanic. With an OBD II code scanner you can complete this task in about 10 minutes. This computerized diagnostic tool can be purchased or borrowed from any auto parts store. Make sure to read the trouble codes with the code scanner first and have any necessary repairs made before resetting the computer and shutting off the "Check Engine" light.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD II code scanner into the OBD II port just to the left of the steering column on the dashboard.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Make sure you dont start the engine.

3

Select the "Read Codes" or similar command on the code scanner. Then select "Delete Codes." Wait for the code scanner to return to the main menu.

4

Unplug the code scanner from the port and start the engine. Make sure that the "Check Engine" light has shut off.

The Subaru Legacy is a mid-size family car in production since 1989. The third generation of this series includes models manufactured from 1998 to 2003. The base model of the 2001 Subaru Legacy is a sedan, and the GT trim level is a wagon. The standard engine for the 2001 Subaru Legacy GT is a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead cam shaft. The timing belt in this vehicle typically requires replacement after 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove any components necessary to access the timing belt on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench if your vehicle has manual transmission. Remove the timing belt guide from the engine block.

2

Remove the center bolt for the idler pulley of the timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the idler pulley from the engine block, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys. Remove the mounting bolts for the tension adjuster of the timing belt, and detach the tension adjuster from the engine block.

3

Hold the tension adjuster with a vertical press and press the adjuster rod to align the hole in the rod with the hole in the cylinder housing for the tension adjuster. Place a 2mm Allen wrench through the holes to hold the adjuster in place.

4

Install the tension adjuster to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect the belt idler pulleys to the engine block, and torque the mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump cover. Rotate the camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.

6

Install the left part of the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, upper left idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket and lower left idler pulley in that order. Hold the lower left idler pulley in place. Continue installing the timing belt onto the lower right idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket in that order.

7

Align the timing marks for the crankshaft and camshafts if necessary. Pull the Allen wrench from the housing of the timing belt tension adjuster.

8

Install the timing belt guide and fasten its mounting bolts by hand if your vehicle has manual transmission. Adjust the timing belt guide so there is 0.019 to 0.059 in. clearance between the guide and the timing belt. Tighten the mounting bolts for the timing belt guide with a socket wrench.

9

Replace any components you removed in step one to access the timing belt.

Regardless of the type of bolt, the tightness that a bolt requires -- its torque -- is essential to using a bolt properly. The torque of a bolt will vary depending upon a number of factors, which can make finding torque specs a little difficult. However, there are many ways to find out what the torque specifications are for a particular bolt.

Torque

When speaking of the tightness of a bolt, one is actually referring to the bolts torque. Torque is the amount of force that is required to rotate an object, like a bolt, around a pivot point. With bolts, the torque is the amount of tightening it requires so that the bolt and whatever the bolt is secured to are not damaged.

Metric Bolts vs. SAE Bolts

There are two major categories of bolts: SAE bolts, which are sized by their diameter, pitch thread and length and are measured in inches; and metric bolts, which are sized by their diameter, distance between threads, and length and are measured in millimeters. SAE or American bolts are used in America; metric bolts are used in most other countries. When looking at a bolt torque specification chart, it is important to check the chart for whether the specs are for SAE or metric bolts, since their torque specs will not be the same.

Bolt Grades

Not all bolts are the same. Bolts are made out of different materials that give them different strengths, uses and capabilities. All bolts have a grade, which indicates the strength of a bolt and what material it is made from. Usually the grade is stamped on the head of the bolt, but metric bolts are sometimes unmarked. Higher grade bolts have higher torque values.

Torque Specs

There are many charts available online that will give a rough estimate of a bolts torque specs based on its size and grade; however, all of these charts are approximations. The torque of a bolt will vary depending upon the manufacturer and other factors, such as whether the bolt is lubricated or dry. There are many instances in which knowing exact bolt specs is essential; for instance, preventing a bolt from breaking or a material from warping. In these cases, contacting the supplier of the bolts for their specs or looking for a chart that is specifically designed for a certain brand of bolt is very important.

Dodge began making pickup trucks in 1917 and introduced the Dodge Ram 1500 to its line of vehicles in 1981. The Ram 1500 is the baseline pickup truck in the Ram line of heavy-duty trucks. The Ram 1500 came in several two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive trims in 2010. The alignment specs varied from the two-wheel drive to the four-wheel drive trims, and based on whether the vehicle came with 17-inch or 20-inch wheels. The alignment is adjustable only on the front ends of all trims of the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500.

2010 Ram 4X2 with 17-inch Tires

The preferred settings for the caster angle are 3.5 degrees on the front left wheel and 3.75 degrees on the front right wheel. The camber angle should be set at +0.1 degrees on the left wheel and -0.1 degrees on the right wheel. The ideal toe-in is +0.1 degrees.

2010 Ram 1500 4X2 with 20-inch Tires.

The preferred settings for the caster angle are +3.5 degrees on the left wheel and +3.8 degrees on the right. The camber angle should be set at +0.1 on the left wheel and -0.1 on the right wheel. The ideal toe-in is +0.1 degrees.

2010 Ram 1400 4X4 with 17-inch Tires

The preferred settings for the caster angle are +3.5 degrees on the left wheel and +3.75 degrees on the right wheel. The camber angle should be set at +0.1 on the left wheel and -0.1 on the right wheel. The ideal toe-in is +0.1 degrees.

2010 Ram 1400 4X4 with 20-inch Tires

The preferred settings for the caster angle are +3.5 degrees on the left wheel and +3.9 degrees on the right wheel. The camber should be set at +0.1 degrees on the left wheel and -0.1 on the right wheel. The ideal toe-in is +0.1.

If you are looking to repair your vehicles engine or simply want to find information and details about it, you can use the engines serial number to find the necessary information. The serial number displayed on your engine helps shops discover the parts needed to perform repairs on your vehicle. To decode and find information about your engine on your own, you can use the Internet and accomplish this swiftly.

Instructions

1

Find your vehicles engine serial number. Depending on your vehicles make, the serial number for your engine will be displayed on the left, right, back or front region of your engine block.

2

Go to the Texoma Ts website (see Resources). This website runs a free query on your engines serial number. Click on the link that says "By Serial Number."

3

Type the engine serial number in the text field next to "Enter a Serial Number and Press Enter."

4

Click the "Run Query" tab to decode the serial number.

Lifting an automobile gives mechanics easier access to work on the vehicles underside and wheels. A vehicles tires will ride more smoothly and experience less vibration when properly balanced.

Lifts

Mechanics use automotive lifts to raise vehicles safely off the ground smoothly and quickly. Dual controls allow operation the lift from either the left or right column. Many lifts have a lock and chain system which prevents the vehicle from falling from its raised position. The ability to adjust the lifts height makes it suitable for servicing a wide variety of vehicles.

Balancing

To achieve an accurate balancing of a vehicles wheels, repair shops often go with balancing equipment that is able to perform static (not moving) and dynamic (moving) balancing. These balancing machines also have display screens that help simplify the balancing process.

Balancing Speeds

Motor life is longer on todays balancing equipment because of lower operating speeds. While older balancing equipment needed to spin over 50 mph to read wheel vibrations, todays machines can get this done with spinning speeds of less than 20 mph.

The 1995 Chevy S10 is a small-sized pickup truck. If youre having problems with your Chevy S10, there are a few things that you can do before you take it to a repair shop. The most common issues do not involve invasive repair. You can attack issues with the battery, fuel or the starter head on to get your S10 back on the road as quickly as possible.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition on the S10 to engage the electronic instrument panel. Check the instrument panel for the fuel gauge if the instrument panel turns on. If you can check the fuel gauge, make sure that there is enough gas in the fuel tank to start the car. Fill the gas tank with fuel if needed. Check the battery if the instrument panel does not turn on.

2

Pop the hood from the hood latch on the right side of the S10s grill. Raise the hood to locate the battery to the right of the engine block. The battery is in black casing with a red and black wire connected to it. Tighten the cable connections to the battery if the connections are loose. Try to restart the S10.

3

Jumpstart the vehicle with another car if needed. Connect the red (+) jumper wire to the red (+) terminal on your S10s battery. Connect the black (-) jumper wire to the black (-) terminal on your S10s battery Connect the other ends of the jumper wire to a different cars battery. Turn on the other car and then start your S10.

4

Allow the battery to charge for about 10-15 minutes before turning the S10 off. Try to restart the S10. If the S10 will not restart, you need to replace the battery. The 12-volt car battery can be found at local auto shops or department stores.

5

Climb under your S10 and locate the starter. The starter is located on the left side of the engine block. The starter is a small block box with a red wire going to the battery. Have your friend turn the ignition to the truck. Listen for a "buzz" or "click" sound coming from the starter. This indicates that the starter is faulty. Have a technician replace it.

6

Look around the S10 for any leaks. If you find leaks coming from the bottom of the S10, you will need to have a qualified technician diagnose the problem. The technician should also be the one to repair the leak as this could prove complicated and you could damage your S10 further.