For U Solution

Harley-Davidson flywheel assemblies have undergone one major change in the last century. From 1909 until 1986, Harley crankshaft assemblies were actually constructed of numerous individual parts. Harley simplified this construction in 1987. One dives deep into the crankcase either because one has thrown a rod or otherwise blown ones engine apart or because one wants to balance the flywheels. Nothing else is worth it. Reaching the flywheel assembly requires the complete disassembly of the rest of the engine. Here is what you can do to a flywheel assembly on a post-1986 engine after you have taken everything else apart.

Instructions

1

Hold the flywheel assembly so it does not tumble out of the left crankcase half. Rotate the bottom end assembly in an engine stand so the assembly is upright and the flywheel shafts are horizontal.

2

Caully slide the flywheel assembly out of the left crankcase.

3

Install aluminum vise jaws and shop rags in the jaws of a bench vise. Clamp the flywheel support structure in the vise.

4

Insert the crankshaft end through the hole in the middle of the flywheel support structure.

5

Slide the structures knurled locating pin down the slot in the structure to engage the crank pin hole. Hand tighten the locating pin.

6

Slide the structures hold-down clamp down the slot to engage the inboard side of the right flywheel half. Hand tighten knurled nut at bottom to secure. Repeat step above to secure the hold-down clamp on the opposite side of the flywheel.

7

Position the wedge attachment on the inboard side of the thrust washer. Turn both hex nuts on the bottom of the wedge attachment an equal number of turns with an open end wrench to draw the wedge halves together.

8

Install two 6 1/2-inch-long, 3/8-inch bolts with flat washers through the channels in the bridge of a main shaft bearing inner race puller-installer. Thread both bolts into the wedge attachment an equal number of turns.

9

Apply graphite lubricant to the threads of the main shaft bearing inner race puller-installer forcing screw. Start the forcing screw into the bridge of the inner race puller-installer.

10

Place the cupped side of the hardened plug against the end of the sprocket shaft. Thread the forcing screw through the bridge until the screw makes firm contact with the hardened plug.

11

Heat the bearing inner race for 30 seconds with a heat gun. Turn the forcing screw with a breaker bar and hex socket until the thrust washer and bearing inner race move 1/8 inch.

12

Loosen the hex nuts on the long bolts in the wedge attachment with an open-end wrench. Turn each nut an equal number of times to separate the halves of the wedge attachment.

13

Turn the wedge attachment one half turn and retighten the hex nuts on the long bolts. Tighten each nut an equal number of turns to draw the wedge halves together.

14

Heat the bearing inner race for 30 seconds with a heat gun. Turn forcing screw with a breaker bar and hex socket until bearing inner race pulls free of socket.

15

Discard thrust washer and bearing inner race. Original post-1986 equipment flywheels are now completely disassembled.

16

Reassemble the flywheel assembly with a new thrust washer and new bearing inner race. Other parts may be cleaned and reused.

A vehicle that shows signs of electrical problems can be frustrating, as many people use to tamper with electricity. However, with the right tools and information, even a novice can troubleshoot some of todays common auto electrical issues.

Circuits & Voltage

Components in an electrical circuit cannot be powered without voltage. Theore step one in troubleshooting for electrical problems in a vehicle is to see if voltage is reaching the circuits load point, for example a light bulb. A test light or voltmeter will work well when performing this check.

Circuit Breakers & Fuses

An absence of voltage at the circuits load point could be due to blown fuses or issues with the circuit breaker. Replacing fuses will often only bring about temporary fixes until the problem that caused the blown fuse in the first place is found. A jumper wire can be used to bypass a circuit breaker, allowing you to check it. A working circuit means a non-working circuit breaker.

Intermittent Troubleshooting

Intermittent electrical issues are considered to be the most difficult kind to deal with, and often stem from loose wire connections. Because of this, wiggling the wires while testing for changes in voltage could help reveal the location of the bad connection.

The Toyota 3S-FE engine is a four-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. It was produced from 1986 to 2000. During that period, it was the engine that powered various Toyota vehicles, including Camry models for 1987 through 1992. The cylinder block in the 3S-FE engine is iron, and the cylinder head is an aluminum alloy. The removal of the cylinder head for this engine should require four to five hours for an experienced mechanic.

Instructions

1

Put a drain pan under the radiator, and open the radiator drain. Allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Replace the drain plug. Seal the container, and store it for later use.

2

Disconnect the throttle cable and its bracket from the throttle body with a socket wrench if your vehicle has an automatic transmission. For all vehicles, detach the accelerator cable and its bracket from the throttle body. Remove the actuator and its bracket from the cruise control if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Detach the hose from the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Disconnect the alternator and oil pressure gauge from the engine. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with a lug wrench and raise the vehicle with a floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands and disconnect the right front wheel assembly. Detach the splash shield from the right front wheel well.

4

Disconnect the lower cross member for the suspension with a socket wrench. Remove the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter and disconnect the distributor from the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector for the water temperature sender gauge and remove the sender gauge from the vehicle. Detach the switch connector for the cold start injector.

5

Disconnect the radiator hoses and emission control hoses from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the water bypass pipe and the exhaust gas recirculation valve from the engine. Disconnect the air hose for the throttle body and remove the throttle body. Remove the hoses from the power steering unit if your vehicle is so equipped.

6

Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench and discard the gasket. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the injectors and remove the injectors from the engine. Unscrew the spark plugs and remove them from the engine.

7

Disconnect the camshaft pulley and the No. 1 idler pulley with a socket wrench. Remove the spring from the timing belt tensioner and detach the No. 3 cover for the timing belt. Support the timing belt to prevent it from shifting on the crankshaft pulley.

8

Disconnect the grommets on the cylinder head cover with a socket wrench. Label the grommets to ensure you install them in their original positions. Remove both camshafts from the engine.

9

Remove the 10 mounting bolts on the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening them in three separate passes. Tap the cylinder head with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the engine block. Place the cylinder head on a clean work surface. Discard the old gasket for the cylinder head. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

Starting in the late 1970s, vehicles were equipped with on-board computers that were specific to each vehicle. This often meant a trip to the dealership service center for diagnosis and computer resets. The 1992 GMC Jimmy was no exception. A GM-specific computer scan tool must be used to read and clear codes as well as reset the computer. In 1996, the second phase of on-board diagnostics standardized the equipment needed to perform this task so most all repair stations could do this for every type of later model vehicle.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your 1992 GMC Jimmy.

2

Remove the black, negative battery terminal bolt from the batterys side post with an 8 mm box-end wrench turned counterclockwise.

3

Detach the red, positive battery terminal bolt from the batterys side post with the wrench.

4

Turn on the headlight switch inside the passenger cab to discharge any stored voltage in the capacitor. Wait five to 10 minutes.

5

Reconnect the red, positive battery terminal bolt to the batterys side post first and tighten it with the wrench.

6

Reattach the black, negative battery terminal bolt to the batterys side post and tighten it with the wrench.

On Aug. 9, 2004, Nissan North America notified the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration that it would begin recalling certain 2004 Nissan Titans due to a transmission problem that could affect more than 5,000 vehicles.

Defect

Certain Nissan Titan pickups equipped with column shifters may have been equipped with a part that was damaged during assembly. A defective shift lever assembly could cause potentially dangerous transmission problems in these vehicles.

Risk

Damage to the shift lever assembly could result in a malfunction of the part responsible for holding the lever in the park position.

Solution

Nissan began notifying registered vehicle owners affected by the recall in September 2004. Authorized dealers were instructed to inspect and replace defective column shifters. Titan owners experiencing transmission problems may contact Nissan or the NHTSA with their vehicle identification numbers to determine whether their trucks might have been affected.

When it debuted in 1995, the Electra Glide, like it predecessors the Hydra Glide and Duo-Glide, was called a "Hog." The name was meant to be a frank evaluation of the motorcycle. In days of yore American bikers perred their Hogs "stripped," "chopped" or "bobbed." The mid-1990s Evolution powered Electra Glide retained many of the rider-friendly (though not mechanic-friendly) features of the 1965 Hog, so a simple job like changing the ignition must begin with some stripping. In this case, you first strip the fairing and then the ignition. Assuming that the old ignition is still in the bike, this process follows a few steps.

Instructions

1

Tape rags to the front fender to protect the finish. Remove the fairing screws outboard of the left and right speakers with a Torx head driver or socket.

2

Loosen the top left and right screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges and the screws below the right and left sides of the glove box with a Torx driver.

3

Remove the front and rear acorn nuts from both the right and left front turn signal lamp brackets with a Torx driver. Pull the front turn signal lamp assemblies from the motorcycle and allow them to hang at the front of the engine guard.

4

Remove the previously loosened screws outboard of the fuel and volt gauges. Raise the outer fairing slightly and rest it on a folded rag. Squeeze the two external tabs to disconnect the headlamp jumper harness connector.

5

Remove the three outer fairing screws just below the outer face of the windshield with a Torx driver. Remove the two fairing screws just below the left and right wind deflectors with a Torx driver.

6

Turn the handlebars to the right and remove the outer fairing screw below the left side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Turn the handlebars to the left and remove the outer fairing screw below the below the right side of the fairing cap with a Torx driver. Lift the fairing and headlamp assembly off the motorcycle.

7

Insert the ignition switch key and turn to the "unlock" position. Rotate the knob to "access." Depress the release button at the bottom left side of the ignition with a small screwdriver. Push the key and turn it counterclockwise another 60 degrees. Lift and remove the knob.

8

Loosen the switch nut with an open end socket and socket wrench. Remove the nut from the threaded post. Remove the collar and spacer.

9

Remove the left and right inner fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Pull the switch position plate tabs from the slots in the inner fairing cap. Turn the handlebars all the way left and disconnect the fairing cap switch connector by pushing the button on the plug side of the connector to pull apart the pin and the socket halves of the connector.

10

Remove the fairing cap from the motorcycle by hand. Slide the ignition switch connector off the anchor on the bottom of the radio and pull the socket and pin halves of the connector apart. Remove the switch housing screws with a Torx driver and lift the switch housing from the upper fork bracket bore and remove the switch housing.

11

Slide the base of the replacement ignition switch into the bore of the upper fork bracket. Replace the screws and tighten to 50 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench.

12

Plug the ignition switch connector back together install that onto the anchor on the bottom of the radio. Plug the fairing cap switch connector back together and install that on the right side of the fairing cap.

13

Turn the handlebars all the way left and install the fairing cap over the ignition switch housing. Install the switch position plate fitting tabs in the slots of the fairing cap.

14

Reinstall the two fairing cap screws with a Torx driver. Slide first the spacer and then the collar over the ignition switch housing post.

15

Replace the nut and tighten to 60 inch pounds of torque with an open end socket and torque wrench. Install the ignition switch knob with the red arrow pointing toward the "access" position. Turn the key clockwise to the "unlock" position then turn the key to "off."

16

Tighten the two fairing cap screws to 30 inch pounds of torque with a Torx socket and a torque wrench. Verify the operation of the ignition switch.

17

Reinstall the fairing and headlamp assembly. Remove the rags.

Checking the transmission fluid level in a Chevy Blazer requires checking the transmission fluid dipstick. The dipstick is located on the passengers side of the engine compartment, near the firewall, at the rear of the engine. The dipstick has a black, plastic, ring-style handle, which is marked.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Chevy Blazer, and support it with the prop rod, which is located on the drivers side of the hood.

2

Locate the transmission dipstick. It is on the drivers side, at the rear of the engine. The handle is marked and sits very close to the firewall of the truck.

3

Wipe the dipstick handle with a clean rag. Grasp the ring on the top of the dipstick with one hand, and pull the up dipstick.

4

Wrap the rag around the dipstick blade, and slide the dipstick out of the tube, wiping off the transmission fluid. Continuing pulling until the entire dipstick blade clears the tube.

A fuel injector delivers fuel to engine cylinders in a specific sequence. Modern fuel injectors are typically electronically controlled, but older engines used mechanical fuel injection. For example, the large diesel engines in heavy Ford trucks made from 1987 to 1996 used mechanical injection. Removing the injectors in these vehicle also requires you clean the injection system due to the deposits left by diesel fuel.

Instructions

1

Clean the nozzle of each fuel injector and the surrounding area with clean engine oil to keep debris out of the engine when you remove the injectors. Clean the connections for the fuel lines on the injectors. Blow the injectors dry with an air compressor.

2

Release the retaining clamps for the fuel lines on the injectors. Detach the high-pressure fuel lines and the leak-off tees from the injectors. Push the fuel lines out of the way. Cover the open fuel lines with caps to keep debris out of the fuel system.

3

Turn the injectors counterclockwise with a socket wrench to loosen them from the engine. Pull the injectors from the engine with the washer still attached. Cover the injector nozzles and fuel openings with plastic caps to prevent fuel contamination.

4

Store the injectors in numbered holders as you remove them. This allows you to replace the injectors into their correct cylinder.

Chrysler Corporation began designs for a minivan in the 1970s. The Dodge Caravan debuted in 1984 along side its sister vehicles, the Chrysler Town & Country and the Plymouth Voyager. The 1997 Dodge Caravan was produced in eight different sub-model packages. The turn signal bulb on the 1997 Caravans are all located, accessed and replaced in the same manner, regardless of the sub-model designation. Removal and replacement of the bulbs requires some mechanical skills. Replacement of the 1997 Caravan turn signal bulbs should take about one hour, depending upon individual skills.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Caravan. Visually inspect and locate the two headlamp mounting bolts at the top rear of the headlamp assembly. Remove the headlamp mounting bolts, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket with a 6-inch extension -- the addition of an extension between the ratchet and socket will allow you to turn the ratchet completely around while you simply hold the extension and socket in place.

2

Pull the headlamp assembly forward and rest the assembly on the front bumper of the Caravan. Reach behind the assembly to access the outermost bulb socket assembly. Remove the bulb socket from the bulb by prying up the small tabs with your fingers or with a small flat-head screwdriver. Rotate the bulb locking cap on the back of the headlamp assembly counterclockwise in relation to its position. Slide the cap back and off the turn signal bulb. Pull the turn signal bulb out of the headlamp assembly and discard it into a trash receptacle.

3

Grab a new turn signal bulb from its packaging, using a paper towel or napkin between your fingers and the bulb. Never touch a turn signal bulb directly with your fingers, as the oil from your fingers can cause the bulb to burn out prematurely; the turn signal bulbs also act as running lights on the Caravan, so they heat up similar to headlamps. Insert the new bulb into the rear of the headlamp assembly.

4

Install the locking cap over the light bulb and turn it clockwise until it is snug on the rear of the headlamp. Plug the bulb socket into the new light bulb. Reinstall the headlamp assembly back into position on the Caravan. Install the mounting bolts downward through the assembly and begin threading them, by hand, to assure correct threading of the bolts. Tighten the bolts with your 3/8-ratchet, socket and extension assembly until the bolts are snug. Turn the ratchet 1/4-turn farther to secure the headlamp bolts. No torque is needed for the headlamp mounting bolts.

5

Repeat the processes in Step 1 through Step 4 to complete the turn signal bulb replacement on the second side of the Caravan. Turn the key to the accessories or "II" position in the ignition of the Caravan after you have completely installed both turn signal bulbs. Turn the left turn signal on and visually inspect its correct operation by either stepping out of the vehicle or checking the bulbs flash lecting off another surface. Turn the right hand turn signal on and inspect its correct operation in a similar fashion. Lower the hood after the operation inspection is completed.

When a transmission begins to show signs of trouble, such as slipping, the problem can often be resolved with a fix as simple as adding the proper amount of transmission fluid. However, other issues could result in the need for a total transmission rebuild.

Rebuild Shop

Finding an auto shop willing to rebuild your transmission may take a diligent search on your part. Many shops use to rebuild transmissions, as they can get paid more to replace them instead. Also, the shop will need to know how to rebuild your specific type of transmission.

Rebuild Cost

The cost to have a transmission rebuilt depends on several factors. A general rule is that the rebuild job will cost about half the price of what your transmission cost when it was new. So if your transmission cost $3000 new, you can expect to pay around $1,500 to have it rebuilt.

Rebuild Labor

Once removed from the vehicle, the transmission will need to be completely disassembled. Individual parts are then checked thoroughly. Some only require cleaning, while others are replaced. Seals and gaskets are always replaced in transmission rebuild jobs.

The Ford 350 diesel has been recalled for many problems over the years including a massive 1.1 million truck recall in 2008 for engine camshaft problems. The recalls for the Ford 350 diesel have dealt with everything from battery problems to transmission problems, but none of these recalls were widespread.

Camshaft Sensor Recall

The 2007 Ford 350 diesel saw a major recall for defective camshaft sensor located on the engine of the truck. According to Lemonauto.com, more than 1.1 million Fords were recalled for this sensor problem. The camshaft sensor was working only part of the time and the other part was not working at all, causing the 350 diesel to stall during operation. This Ford 350 problem could create accident situations and theore needed to be recalled for the dealership to inspect the 350 diesel to ensure the camshaft sensor was working properly.

Battery Cable Recall

The Ford 350 diesel saw a recall on just over 1,000 trucks because of a battery cable problem. This 2008 recall was because a battery cable on the positive side of the battery did not have enough clearance from the splash shield bolt. The battery cable was making contact with the bolt causing the cable insulation to burn off, which would short circuit the cable or create a fire hazard. The cable could also damage the battery, starter or starter solenoid because of the short circuit.

Control Module Recall

The 6.4L diesel 350 Ford was recalled in 2008 because of control module problems with the heavy duty trucks. The diesel filter was running at higher temperature than was safe to operate the Ford 350. This higher temperature would cause the 350 diesel engine to run roughly or cause the truck to loose power during operation. The higher temperatures in this diesel filter also caused a build-up of hydrocarbons throughout the exhaust system and white smoke would blow through the exhaust. Flames would also blow out the exhaust system. More than 33,000 Ford 350 diesel trucks needed the control module in the power train or transmission reprogrammed at the dealership.

Removing the 4.3L engine from an Astro van is a challenging project that should only be attempted by an experienced home mechanic with a capable helper. Find a firm level surface that will support the van on stands and allow the engine hoist to roll easily. Safety should be your first concern. Never place any part of your body under the vehicle or engine that is supported by only a hoist or jack and always use a solid support stand.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a wrench. Drain the coolant into a container for re-use or recycling. Remove the engine cover from inside the vehicle by removing the screws under the hood, the dash lower extension and support rods then releasing the two latches.

2

Remove the hood, grille, headlights, radiator support braces, horn, hood latch mechanism and anything else that will prevent the removal of the radiator and ultimately the engine from being pulled through the grille opening. This includes the radiator and shrouds, air conditioning condenser and air cleaner. Disconnect the radiator hoses and remove the radiator with its supports and shroud.

3

Disconnect the fuel lines. The V6 engine has constant bleed so no special procedure is necessary to relieve the pressure. Be prepared to clean up any spilled fuel. If not already done, disconnect the transmission cooler lines and clean up any spilled fluid. Label and disconnect all vacuum lines and wiring connections. Disconnect the throttle, cruise control and any other cables from the engine.

4

Remove the power steering pump, leaving the hoses connected. Remove the air conditioning compressor. Use rope or wire to support it if necessary. Do not disconnect any part of the air conditioning system; simply lay the components aside. Remove the transmission dipstick if so equipped.

5

Raise the van with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. From under the vehicle, disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust pipe, remove the bell housing cover, bell housing bolts and the starter motor. Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate and the strut rods. Remove the engine mount bolts and nuts. Support the front of the transmission with the floor jack.

6

Attach an engine hoist to the lift plates on the engine, then lift the engine a little and pull it forward slightly. If necessary, have a helper separate the torque converter from the engine with a large screwdriver or pry bar. Be sure the helper is out of the way before proceeding. Continue pulling and lifting until the engine is clear of the vehicle. Gently set the engine on wood blocks or an engine stand.

General Motors Company and the National Highway Traffic System Administration have announced multiple safety recalls due to steering problems in GMC trucks. Sierra pickups with model years of 2003-2006 may experience difficulty steering due to a range of manufacturing defects. If not repaired, any of these steering problems could lead to a crash.

Power Steering Hose Defect

On October 4, 2005, General Motors recalled 123,592 vehicles including certain 2005-2006 model year Sierra pickup trucks for problems with the power steering hose. A manufacturing defect may cause the hose to break and leak fluid if the steering wheel is turned extremely to the left or right while braking.

Steering Connector Bolt Defect

On January 20, 2005, General Motors recalled certain 2005 model year GMC Sierra trucks to replace the bolt connecting the steering gear to the steering shaft. If not repaired, the defective bolt may break and cause a loss of steering.

Hydraulic Brake System Defects

In January 2004 and February 2005, General Motors recalled certain 2003-2005 Sierra pickups for manufacturing issues that could result in steering problems. A defect in the hydro-boost relief valve in 2003-2004 GMC Sierra trucks may cause the driver to have to use excessive force to steer and/or brake. A potentially problematic hydro-boost assembly in 2004-2005 GMC Sierra trucks may cause an hydraulic fuel leak, which may lead the driver to experience steering and brake problems.

The Nissan Versa battery mounts near the rear of the engine compartment on the driver side. You need to replace the battery right away if it loses its charge. Buy a replacement battery at a Nissan dealer or auto parts store. Save the time and money spent at a service center by changing the battery yourself. Many auto parts stores and dealerships will accept old batteries for recycling.

Instructions

1

Park your Versa on level ground and remove the key from the ignition. Open and secure the hood of the Versa.

2

Loosen the battery terminal connection on the negative battery post with a wrench. Remove the cable. Follow the same procedure to remove the positive battery cable.

3

Lift the retaining strap off the top of the battery. Pull the batterys bottom tab to lift the strap up, then move the strap out of the way. Remove the battery.

4

Insert the new battery into the compartment. Replace the retaining strap and snap it into place. Connect the positive battery cable. Tighten it with a wrench. Attach the negative cable. Tighten the connection with the wrench. Close the hood.

Multi-barrel intake manifolds can accommodate two- or four-barrel carburetors on older or performance engines. The intake manifolds job is to connect the carburetor to the intake ports on the engines cylinder heads. Intake manifolds can improve your vehicles performance and increase fuel mileage. It is fairly common for customized carburetor performance engines to feature an upgraded intake manifold designed to increase overall horsepower.

Increased Airflow

The four-barrel carburetor and corresponding four-barrel intake manifold allow increased fuel and air flow through the engine. You will commonly find four-barrel manifolds on large V8 engines that are intended for performance and power where the extra airflow can be turned into improved performance.

Fuel Economy

Four-barrel carburetors work by running the two primary barrels all of the time and only going into the secondary barrels when the driver signals the engine to provide additional power by pressing down hard on the accelerator. When the two secondary barrels open, more fuel and air flow through the intake manifolds and into the engine. Two-barrel carburetors do not have this option; theore they typically get better fuel economy than four-barrels due to the restricted fuel and air flow.

Improved Performance

The increased air and fuel flow from a four-barrel carburetor, in addition to the two extra secondary barrels, create increased horsepower and acceleration when you drive the vehicle. The vehicle receives more fuel, which it can burn to provide additional power when driven. Vehicles with a four-barrel carburetor and intake manifold will accelerate more rapidly and efficiently than a vehicle with a two-barrel carburetor and intake.

Wheel bolts, or lug nuts, are the nuts that hold the wheel to the axle of your vehicle. A Ford Aspire has one of the smaller patterns, consisting of only four bolts. The bolts are welded to the hub. The wheel slips over the bolts and the lug nuts are then used to tighten the wheel to the hub. If you are not caul, you can round the corners off of the lug nuts. If this happens, they become stuck. You can use the alligator-like jaws of locking pliers to free them.

Instructions

1

Insert the flat tip of a tire iron into the crack between the hubcap and the wheel. Wiggle it until it penetrates 1/2-inch. Pry on the tire iron to pop the hubcap off the wheel.

2

Spray the wheel bolts liberally with spray lubricant. Coat the entire bolt and nut until the lubricant is dripping off. Wait one hour for the lubricant to penetrate.

3

Open the jaws of the locking pliers. Slip them over the lug nut. The handle of the pliers should be pointing horizontally to the left. Squeeze the handle. If the handle closes too easily, turn the bolt on the end of the locking pliers clockwise and close the jaws again. You should be able to just barely close the jaws on the rounded nut.

4

Press the handles of the pliers together with both hands. Using all of your weight, force the handles toward the ground. You should be turning the bolt counterclockwise.

5

Bounce your weight on the nut until it breaks loose. If it wont break loose, use a hammer to smack the end of the handles of the pliers until the lug nut breaks loose. Finish unscrewing the bolt with your fingers, or spin the bolt with the pliers if the bolt is stubborn.

The Chevy Malibu is a mid-size sedan that was introduced in 1963. Models built in recent years come equipped with either a six-speed or a four-speed automatic transmission. The 2002 Malibu was offered with a four-speed transmission and a choice of a 2.4-liter or a 3.1-liter engine. Although the 2002 Chevy Malibu is affordable and offers solid features, it tends to experience several problems with the air conditioning.

Fan Failure

According to the CarComplaints.com website, some 2002 Chevy Malibu owners have reported problems with the air conditioning fan not working on every setting. Some drivers have complained that although the fan has five settings, it only works on the fifth setting and not the others. The fan failure mainly occurs when the heater is on rather than the air conditioning.

Recirculating Air

Owners of the 2002 Malibu has also posted reports on the CarComplaints.com website involving a number of problems with the cars recirculating air function. Some owners have reported that the recirculating air option randomly turns off and switches to fresh air.

Intermittent Shut Offs

Other 2002 Malibu owners have complained that the A/C does not work even though the A/C light is on. Some have also complained that the air conditioning suddenly shuts off after it was working and does not turn back on.

Solution

Before you pay for any repairs on your 2002 Chevy Malibu, its a good idea to have an auto shop run a diagnostic on the air conditioning unit. This should cost between $72 and $91 dollars. Fan failure and intermittent A/C problems often can be remedied by replacing the A/C control head. According to Auto Recalls for Consumers, a new control head for the 2002 Malibu costs approximately $310 for parts and labor.

Converting an antique vehicle from the old 6 volt system to a modern 12 volt allows the use of more accessories and easier repairs. The ignition system is no different and having more voltage available gives the system more energy. This energy translates into a more efficient engine with more power that uses less fuel. After a 12 volt conversion has been done on an older vehicle, the ignition must be upgraded also. Converting the ignition to handle 12 volts is a very simple job that can be done in just a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Shift the vehicle into park or neutral. Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal. Inspect the existing ignition system wiring and other components for wear or damage. Replace any defective parts as required.

2

Locate the vehicle ignition coil. Remove the original 6 volt coil following the manufacturers instructions. Install a universal 12 volt coil in the original coils location on the vehicle. It may be necessary to replace the existing coil bracket in order to fit the new coil. Most universal coils come complete with mounting brackets as part of the kit. Install the new bracket following the coil manufacturers instructions. Do not connect the wire from the ignition switch to the coil at this time.

3

Locate a suitable mounting point near the coil for the single winding ballast resistor. The single ballast resistor is identified by having two prongs for electrical connection. Typically the ballast resistor is best mounted on the firewall of the vehicle. Use care when selecting a mounting location as the ballast resistor becomes hot during normal operation. Connect the wire from the ignition switch to one side of the ballast resistor. Cut a piece of 12 gauge wire to fit from the other terminal of the ballast resistor to the coil. Install spade or loop connectors on the wire ends as required. Attach one end of the wire to the ballast resistor and attach the other end to the ignition coil.

4

Locate the distributor and remove the distributor cap and rotor by following the vehicle manufacturers instructions. Locate the ignition condenser inside the distributor and remove it from the vehicle. Install a 12 volt condenser in the same location as the original unit. It is not necessary to change the ignition points or any other component as they are not voltage sensitive. Replace the distributor cap and rotor.

5

Inspect the ignition system and ensure all components are solidly connected and away from any moving parts of the vehicle. Connect the battery negative (-) cable. Start the vehicle and check for normal operation. If the vehicle fails to start, switch the wires around at the coil connections.

If your car battery isnt getting the job done and you find yourself having trouble cranking up, then you might need to replace your battery. But you can always try jumping your car with another car first. This is especially helpful if the battery has been temporarily depleted because you left the lights or some other accessory on. If this is the case, with a successful start using jumper cables, your cars alternator will recharge the battery and you will be on your way without the need for further repairs. The procedure for using jumper cables is simple and most anyone should be able to complete it without much trouble.

Check Cable Connections First

Its common for drivers to think they need a jump when they actually dont. The first step is to find out if you need a jump at all. Check the battery for loose terminal connections or excessive corrosion. If they are loose or corroded they may not be making a proper connection, and this will prevent starting. If they are secure and free of corrosion, move on to the jumper cables.

Two Batteries Required

Youll need a second battery with a full charge to get your dead battery up and running again. This is most easily accomplished using a second car. Pull a car up close to, but not touching, the car with the dead battery. Make sure all the accessories and the radio in both cars are turned off and then shut down the engine. You should also unplug any other connected devices like iPods, radar detectors or GPS systems, to prevent damage to them.

Cable Connections

Each end of the jumper cable has two clamps. One is marked positive and the other negative. On most sets the negative is marked with a black protective cover and the positive is red or orange. Clamp one positive end of the cable to the positive terminal on the dead cars battery and then attach the other positive end to the positive terminal on the good battery on the other car. Connect one negative end to the good battery at the negative terminal and then clamp the other negative end to the engine block or a solid part of the cars frame to establish a ground. Try to find a spot as far from the battery as possible. You may also connect it to the negative terminal on the dead battery, but this should be a last resort if you cant find another spot. Connecting to the dead battery to complete the circuit could cause a battery explosion, although its unlikely.

Charge and Start

Start the "donor" car first and allow it to run for a few minutes while the dead battery absorbs some of the power. Shut down the donor cars engine, leave the cables connected, and try to start the dead car. Starting the dead car with the other engine off may protect the other car from alternator damage. If this doesnt work immediately, start the donor cars engine, wait a couple of minutes, and try to start the dead car again. You may have to wait a few more minutes, if the battery was severely depleted. Once the engine starts, let it continue to run for a few moments, allowing the system to recharge with the cables are still in place. Then remove the cables caully, in the exact reverse order from how you connected them.

Warnings

During this process, be caul not to touch the cable ends to any metal unintentionally. Never try to jump a damaged battery. If it is split, it may explode. Wear some kind of glasses, in case there is an explosion. Do not smoke during this procedure. Battery fumes are flammable.

Once you have let the dead car run for a few minutes with the cables disconnected, turn it off and try starting it again. If it starts, youre on your way. If it does not, however, it means that your charging system is not functioning properly, and you may not make it home.

When discussing engine maintenance, torque ers to the amount of force required to rotate a bolt around a fixed point or axis. In the United States, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) issues standards for bolt and torque specifications; in most other countries, especially European ones, they use metric equivalents.

Metric Dimensions

In metric units, bolts are listed according to three parameters. The first reading is the major thread diameter, listed in millimeters. The second value represents the distance between the threads, in millimeters. The third value represents the bolts length in millimeters. A metric label for a bolt might look like this: M8-1.25x25.

U.S. Dimensions

U.S., or SAE, bolt dimensions are listed according to three parameters. The first value represents the major thread diameter in inches. The second value is the number of threads in the bolt per inch. The third value indicates the bolts length in inches. An SAE label for a bolt might look like this: 5/16-18 1-1/2.

Pound-Feet vs. Netwon Meters

In U.S. units, torque is generally listed in pound-feet (lb.-ft.) or less commonly in pound-inches (lb-in.). In metric units, the same values are listed in Newton-meters (nm). To convert lb-ft. to nm, multiply the value by 1.356. To convert nm to lb-ft., multiply the value by 0.738. To convert lb-in. to nm, multiply the value by 0.113. To convert nm to lb-in., multiply the value by 8.851.

If you detect and repair a hole or leak in your exhaust system at an early stage, you can fix it relatively cheaply and easily. But if you allow a rusty hole to go unaddressed for a while, it can quickly spread, robbing you of performance and gas mileage while eating away at your exhaust system. You may even need to replace the system entirely if this happens, which is certainly not a cheap fix. If you suspect that you might have a hole in your exhaust system, just follow these quick, easy steps to check for yourself.

Instructions

1

Allow your car to cool completely if it has been driven recently.

2

Open the garage door if your car is stored in an enclosed garage. Turn the car on and let the engine idle for several seconds.

3

Wad up an old rag and attempt to stuff it into the tailpipe. As you do this, caully observe two things: the force of the air blowing out of the tailpipe and the sound of the engine.

4

If and when the engine begins slowing down or struggling, pull the rag out. If you do not hear any change in engine speed within 30 seconds of stuffing the tailpipe, remove the rag then.

5

Turn the car off.

The 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe is equipped with two oxygen (O2) sensors within the exhaust system. Designed to control the fuel consumption based on the oxygen in your cars exhaust, the oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter of your Santa Fe. When the cars fuel economy begins to decrease significantly, you may need to replace the oxygen sensors. Buy replacement sensors from an auto parts retailer and change them at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Raise the Santa Fe with a jack and support it on a set of jack stands. Locate the oxygen (O2) sensors along the exhaust system.

2

Pull the electrical connection from the top of the oxygen sensor. Remove the existing sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

3

Thread the new oxygen sensor into place by hand to avoid the risk of cross threading and damaging the sensor. Torque the sensor to 40 pound-feet with your torque wrench. Push the electrical connector back into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the second sensor, if needed. Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

The engine timing in your 1997 Ford Ranger has a profound effect on the trucks overall ride quality. When the timing is off, the engine might shake, sputter and rattle, causing a decrease in power and comfort. This can also cause your engine to burn fuel inefficiently, leading to poor fuel economy and harmful pollution. To remedy the problem, reset the timing on your engine back to the correct factory specifications.

Instructions

1

Turn on the Ranger and let it run for 10 minutes, then turn it off.

2

Open the hood and locate the timing wires in the engine bay. These wires will be in a small, gray wiring harness located next to the distributor cap.

3

Pull the insert out of the harness to disconnect the engine timing.

4

Connect the black timing light cable to the Rangers negative battery terminal and the red timing light cable to the Rangers positive battery terminal.

5

Connect the third timing light cable to the spark plug one cable. In the Ranger this is the cable at the front of engine block, the furthest to the left (passengers side).

6

Turn the engine back on while pointing the light at the timing cover.

7

Loosen the bolt on the distributor cap using a socket wrench and a 13mm socket.

8

Turn the distributor cap slowly until the markings on the timing cover light up.

9

Tighten the bolt on the distributor cap, then turn off the engine and remove the timing light.

10

Reconnect the timing connector.

Rust is created when bare metal is exposed to both oxygen and water. This creates iron oxide, better known as rust. Rust eats away at the surrounding metal, which can cause connection problems and over time makes the vehicle less structurally secure as the rust penetrates the vehicles steel crumple zones. Immediate action is required as soon as the rust appears to stop it from spreading throughout the entire car body.

Instructions

1

Remove any loose rust from the car with the wire brush. Keep using the wire brush until the bare metal underneath the rust shows through.

2

Mix the fiberglass paste included in the repair kit with the correct amount of hardener. Use a putty knife to apply the mixed paste behind the rust holes. Be sure to press the paste securely into the rust damage.

3

Wait for the paste to harden, then use the sandpaper to sand off any excess paste or rust debris.

4

Mix together the body filler and hardener, then spread over the rust-damaged area. Wait for the filler to harden, then use sandpaper to sand the area smooth.

5

Use a solvent wipe to remove any dust or grease from the area. Shake the primer can to mix the paint, then apply the first coat of primer over the damaged area.

6

Wait for the primer to dry, then sand the area. Apply a second coat of primer and wait for it to dry. Then sand again. Repeat this process until the primer surface is even with the rest of the cars paint.

7

Spray a few thin coats of the topcoat paint over the primer area. Wait for the topcoat to dry, then polish it with a polishing compound to blend the paint into the rest of the cars paint.

When searching for the torque specifications for the bolts on intake manifolds, it is necessary to find the specs for the exact make and model rather than simply the model year. The torque specs for bolts are highly individualized. Since most manufacturers use different bolts for different engines, the specs for bolts on one intake manifold will rarely correspond to those of another intake manifold. Relying on inaccurate or imprecise torque specs can lead to serious problems. Not tightening a bolt enough can fail to ensure the proper seal, and tightening a bolt too much can cause it to break, either immediately or during times of increased stress.

Intake Manifolds

An intake manifold is a primary part of the fuel-induction system and serves as the conduit between the carburetor and the ports in the cylinder head. Manifolds come in several types and designs. For instance, Edelbrock manufacturers and sells eight series of aluminum intake manifolds for various engine types. Ensuring that the airflow specs of the intake manifold match the requirements of the camshaft, cylinder and engine helps to guarantee peak performance, and making certain that the bolts on the intake manifold are tightened to the right torque specs helps create the necessary air pressure.

Bolt Torque

Torque is basically the amount of force applied to an object in order to twist or turn it. It is usually given in foot-pounds or inch-pounds, with one foot-pound equivalent to one pound of force applied to the end of a lever (such as a wrench) that is 1 foot long. Bolt torque specs for vehicle maintenance are often based on the bolts being clean or perhaps even lightly lubricated with clean motor oil. It is common to tighten the bolts on engine components in separate cycles. Tightening all the bolts to a given torque, and then returning to the first bolt and tightening each of them to a second, and then perhaps even a third, specification.

Bolt Torque for 1997 Intake Manifolds

Here are some examples of bolt-torque specs for 1997 intake manifolds. These specs should not be applied to any intake manifolds other than the ones cited. For the intake manifold of the 1997 Ford Mustang 3.8-liter engine, first tighten each bolt to 96 inch-lbs of torque, then tighten each bolt to 15 ft-lbs and, finally, tighten each bolt to 24 ft-lbs. For the intake manifold on the 1997 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7-liter engine, tighten each bolt to 44 inch-lbs and then go back and tighten each bolt to 89 inch-lbs. For the 1997 Pontiac Firebird 5.7-liter engine, tighten each bolt to 44 inch-lbs and then go back and tighten each bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs.

Removing the FMF Q2 spark arrestor from an FMF muffler is not difficult and can be done in just a few minutes with an Allen wrench. The spark arrestor sits just inside the end of the muffler tailpipe and is attached with Allen screws. The FMF Q2 spark arrestor model is designed similarly to the Q4 model and is attached in the same manner. Occasionally, the spark arrestor can wear out from usage, requiring that it be replaced.

Instructions

1

Locate the Allen screws inside the lip of the tailpipe on the FMF muffler that secures the FMF Q2 spark arrestor to the muffler.

2

Unfasten the Allen screws with an Allen wrench and slide the spark arrestor out of the muffler tailpipe.

3

Remove the FMF Q2 spark arrestor from the muffler and discard the part.

The headlights on a car can become faded over time. You can easily replace the headlights on a Honda Accord with projector lights. Projector lights provide more visibility with a wide range of light showing, and are especially useful when driving at night. You install the projector lights in the same manner as the regular headlights.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Honda Accord. There is usually a button inside of the car. Push the button to release the hood. A latch is located in the middle of the hood underneath the edge. Push the latch and then lift up the hood. Make sure the hood is held up securely with the holder in the car, or by some other means, to ensure the hood does not fall when you are under it.

2

Use a 10 mm wrench to loosen the bolts on top of the bumper to remove it. Once the bumper is removed, put it to the side.

3

Disconnect the wires that are on the back of the headlights. Remove the bulbs from the inside of the lens assembly. Remove these by turning and pulling them out.

4

Loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the lens assembly and remove it using a 10 mm wrench.

5

Insert the projector light in the same place you just took out the headlights, and screw it in using the same bolts you just removed. Connect the wires to the back of the projector light with the wires you just disconnected from the headlight, and then put the bulbs back into place.

6

Test the lights to make sure they work. If you are satisfied, place the bumper back on the car by putting it back into the same position, align the bolts and asten them using the 10 mm wrench.

Converting a gasoline or diesel auto engine to marine use requires mechanical expertise and knowledge of marine applications associated with engine performance and use. Unlike auto engines that receive fresh air to assist cooling, marine engines are covered or installed below deck. Auto engines are designed for running at a range of speeds, whereas marine engines perform at half-throttle or full speed most of the time. Accessories and components are available through marine suppliers or aftermarket sources. Basic conversions are performed with the auto engine mounted on a stand.

Instructions

1

Remove the exhaust headers from the auto engine. Detach and remove the carburetor. Remove the water pump and pulley from the engine. Pop the lead freeze plugs out at the base of the engine block. Remove the motor mounts from the block.

2

Install marine exhaust manifold gaskets and mount the water-cooled exhaust manifolds and heat exchangers. Attach the marine water pump (raw water pump) at the front of the engine. Connect the heat-exchanger hoses to the water pump. Install a through-hull raw water intake, water filter and remaining water hoses in the engine compartment of the boat.

3

Attach the exhaust tubes to the water-cooled exhaust manifolds. Include the necessary gaskets and clamps. The remaining components of the exhaust are connected once the engine is installed.

4

Remove the fuel line fittings from the carburetor. Attach marine fittings for rigid lines or aircraft-rated fuel lines that are configured for the particular boat, gas tank and accessory fuel pump once the engine is installed. Plan on including one or more fuel filters in the fuel supply system.

5

Retrofit the intake manifold with tilt shims for the carburetor. Shims ensure that the carburetor remains level when the bow of the boat rises, such as when getting underway.

6

Install carburetor flame arrestors into the intake manifold. Reattach the carburetor to the intake manifold. Retrofit the throttle linkage to adapt to the boats throttle control and throttle cables.

7

Install brass freeze plugs in the engine block. Attach marine motor mounts to the engine block. Fill the engines crankcase with marine-grade motor oil. Install an external oil filter in the engine compartment.

The Geo Metro, like most other passenger cars, uses a 12-volt power system to supply the cars electrical needs. Unfortunately, the cars spark plugs require much higher voltage to create the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture. The ignition coil provides this increased voltage by converting the 12 volts supplied by the electrical system into a charge of up to 30,000 volts. Quite often, when a car uses to run or runs badly, the fault lies with the ignition coil.

Instructions

1

Locate the ignition coil, connected to the cars firewall. It is a cylindrical object with a thick wire connected to it.

2

Remove the plastic cap that protects the coil.

3

Use a voltmeter to test the coils positive terminal. Set the voltmeter to 12-volt direct current (DC), and touch the positive probe to the positive terminal on the coil. The terminals are bolts on one end of the coil, and the positive terminal will be marked with "+." The voltmeter should read 12 volts. If not, proceed to Step 4.

4

Check to ensure that the ignition coil electrical connector is firmly in place. Check the under-hood fuse panel to ensure the coil fuse/relay has not gone bad. Blown fuses of this type appear burned. Recheck the coil with the voltmeter. If it still detects no power, the problem lies at a location other than the coil.

5

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to cut off power to the coil.

6

Disconnect the high-tension cable from the coil. This is the thick wire that attaches to the center of the coil using a connector similar to a spark plug boot. Grasp the boot, and pull it straight off the coil as you twist it.

7

Use a 1/4-inch drive socket or a small box end wrench to disconnect the negative and positive terminal wires from the coil.

8

Remove the coil from the firewall by removing the two bolts that attach the mounting bracket.

9

Set the voltmeter to test resistance (ohms), and touch the probes to the positive and negative terminals. The voltmeter should read between 1.35 and 1.65 ohms for standard-emission models, and between 1.08 and 1.32 ohms for cars with upgraded (California) emissions. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

10

Check the resistance between the positive terminal and the high-tension terminal just as you did in Step 9. This resistance should lie between 22.1 and 22.9 kilohms for all models. If the reading falls outside this range, replace the coil.

Car jacks are used to lift a portion of a vehicle for simple repairs such as changing a tire. Larger jacks can lift the front or back end of a car for more complex repairs. Professional-quality jacks are sometimes used in auto repair shops to lift vehicles, or in parking lots to store cars. These devices are also erred to as car lifts.

Scissor Car Jacks

A scissor car jack is a device constructed with a cross-hatch mechanism, much like a scissor, to lift up a car for repair or storage. It typically works in just a vertical manner. The jack opens and folds closed, applying pressure to the bottom supports along the crossed pattern to move the lift. Scissors car jacks come with many new vehicles since theyre portable and can be stored in a car trunk. When closed, they have a diamond shape. Scissor jacks may have motorized controls to lift a heavier vehicle, such as a camper or RV. The largest scissors jacks lift and store cars in makeshift parking lots. For example, the Carparx Vehicle Parking and Storage system by Titan Worldwide is 94 inches wide and 228 inches long and can lift up to 7,000 lbs. The lift is powered by a hydraulic pack and accompanying controls.

Air-Powered Car Jacks

Vehicle owners without enough muscle to work a scissor jack can use an air-powered jack lift. These devices use compressed air to lift up a vehicle The pallet is placed under the rear wheels --- or other lifting point --- and then the user works an air-control valve to lift the car to the desired height. Air jacks range from a 1.25-ton bumper jack to an axle air jack than cam lift up to 22 tons. The exhaust air jack, a newer version of this type of lift, contains a hose that attaches to the exhaust pipe to fill up a balloon placed underneath the car with air. This can lift up a 3-ton car for up to 45 minutes.

Hydraulic Jacks

Consisting of two cylinders --- one containing fluid and another with a large piston to lift a vehicle --- a hydraulic jack raises cars using a "pulley" type system. The user presses upward on a hand lever to pump fluid from a pipe into the small cylinder. When the user turns the lever down, the fluid moves into the main cylinder. A valve stops the fluid from returning to the small or "pumping" cylinder. By turning a second, or release valve, liquid leaves the main cylinder and returns to the smaller one. One type of hydraulic jack, a bottle jack, which is shaped like a soda bottle, uses a screw top that extends up to nine inches. The valve on the bottom of the jack must be turned clockwise until it is shut for the ram (extension rod) to work. To retract the extension rod, turn the valve counterclockwise, ensuring that theres no weight left on the bottle jack. Otherwise, you may be injured. A bottle jack can lift anywhere from 8 to 50 tons, despite its small size.

The Pontiac Bonneville is a series of cars manufactured by the Pontiac division of General Motors since 1957. The 1992 model is the first of the eighth generation of the Pontiac Bonneville, and represents a major redesign over the previous generation. The standard engine in the 1992 Pontiac Bonneville was a six cylinder, 3.8 L engine with sequential fuel injection. You must remove the fuel rail to access the fuel injectors for this vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to avoid the accidental discharge of fuel. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the cap for the fuel pressure connection on the fuel rail and wrap a shop towel around the connection. Attach fuel pressure valve J 34730-1A to the fuel pressure connection. Place the open end of the pressure valves bleed hose into a container approved for gasoline open the valve to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the pressure valve and replace the cap for the fuel pressure connection.

3

Disconnect the fuel lines for the fuel rail with a back-up wrench and discard the O-rings. Detach the fuel return line from the pressure regulator. Disconnect the wiring for the ignition coil and electrical connectors for the fuel injector. Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench and disconnect the fuel rail assembly by pulling on both sides of the fuel rail with equal force.

4

Cover the open fuel lines with masking tape to keep debris out of the fuel lines. Release the retaining clips for the fuel injector and discard them. Detach the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Discard all of the O-rings on the fuel injectors.

5

Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the new O-rings. Install the O-rings onto the new fuel injectors and place the new retainer clip onto the fuel injector. Place the fuel injectors into the sockets on the fuel rail so the electrical connections on the fuel injectors face outwards. Lock the retainer clips for the fuel injectors.

6

Install the fuel rail by performing steps 3 and 4 in reverse order. Fasten the cap for the fuel tank and connect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Turn the ignition on for two seconds to pressurize the fuel system, then turn the ignition off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition back on and check for fuel leaks.

Chrysler uses the Jeep marquee for its line of off-road and sport utility vehicles. The 1997 models include the Cherokee, Grand Cherokee and Wrangler. These vehicles use multi-port fuel injection, requiring the fuel pump to deliver highly-pressurized fuel. The fuel pump in a 1997 Jeep is located under the vehicle, requiring you to raise the vehicle to service the fuel pump. These fuel pumps are not user serviceable, so you must replace a malfunctioning fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. This will prevent the accidental discharge of fuel while you replace the fuel pump. Siphon fuel from the fuel tank into a gasoline container until the fuel tank is below 1/4 full.

2

Block the front wheels with chocks to prevent the accidental movement of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel sending unit.

3

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring from the field sending unit counterclockwise with a hammer and brass punch. Remove the locking ring and detach the field sending unit from the vehicle. Remove and discard the O-ring on the fuel tank.

4

Remove the fuel filter from the fuel sending unit and discard it. Detach the electrical wiring from the fuel pump. Release the clamp on the fuel line for the fuel pump and disconnect the fuel line. Remove the nut for the top mounting bracket of the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel pump from the rest of the fuel sending unit.

5

Replace the fuel filter on the fuel pump and install the fuel pump into its top mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical wiring and fuel lines to the fuel pump. Place a new O-ring on the fuel tank.

6

Place the locking ring onto the fuel sender unit and turn it clockwise with the hammer and brass punch until it reaches to the stop on the fuel tank. Connect the fuel lines and electrical wiring for the fuel tank. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The 1992 Buick Century is a mid-sized sedan. The 1992 Century was produced in two-door, four-door, and station wagon versions. The primary engine offered in the 1992 Century was a 2.5-liter four-cylinder, but a 3.3-liter V-6 was an option for all models. Lifting the 1992 Century and setting the jack stands requires attention to detail. If the jack stands are not set correctly, working on or around the car will be unsafe.

Instructions

Front

1

Park the car on a level surface. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires of the Century. Use a tire iron to loosen the front wheel lug nuts a half turn if you are working on the brakes, steering, or suspension components. It is difficult to loosen lug nuts once the vehicle is on the jack stands.

2

Insert a floor jack underneath the front of the Century. Locate the frame rail that is parallel to the side of the engine. Make sure there is no severe rust or holes in the frame rail. If there is a large amount of rust or the frame rail has holes, move to the third section of this project for alternate instructions. If there is little to no rust place your jack beneath one of the frame rails.

3

Raise the car upward by the frame rail. Place your jack stand just rearward of the jack, underneath the front frame rail. The jack stand should be set where the lower control arm meets the frame rail. The lower control arm is a metal part that extends from the frame rail out toward the wheels. Lower the jack to let the car set on the jack stand.

4

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to place the jack stand underneath the other front side of the Century.

Rear

5

Park the car on a level surface. Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts if you are planning on working on the brakes, suspension, or steering components.

6

Inspect the rear axle beam, which is the metal beam that extends between both rear wheels. If the rear axle beam is severely rusted or bent, proceed to the third section of this project for alternate instructions. If little or no rust is present, place your jack beneath the rear axle beam, just inward from the tire.

7

Raise the rear of the Century with the jack. If you are planing on getting beneath the car, you will need to raise the jack near-to its limit height. Place your jack stand just inward from the jack, underneath the axle beam. This will leave you room to access the area inward from the rear wheel if needed. Lower the jack to set the car onto the jack stand.

8

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to set the jack stand beneath the other rear side of the Buick if needed.

If the Car is Rusted Severely

9

Loosen the front or rear lug nuts, if you are planning to work on the brakes, suspension, or steering components. Use a tire iron to loosen the nuts.

10

Locate the side chassis rails. The chassis rails run parallel to the sides of the car, and are located just inside the body pinch rails. Place your jack about 1 foot rearward from the front wheel well if you are working on the front of the car, underneath the chassis rail. If you are working on the back of the car place your jack beneath the chassis rail, about 1 foot forward of the rear wheel well.

11

Raise the Century with the jack underneath the chassis rail. Place your jack stand beneath the chassis rail, directly next to the jack. If you are working on the front of the car, the jack stands goes to the front of the jack. If you are working on the rear of the car, the jack stand goes to the rear of the jack. Lower the jack to set the Century down onto the jack stands.

12

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 if you need to raise the second side of the vehicle.

The 1999 Pontiac Grand Am uses a single bulb to provide both low beams and high beams. These encapsulated, halogen bulbs produce illumination through high-temperature gas. The capsules last longer and burn brighter than older, sealed-beam headlights used on the cars of the 1960s and 1970s. One drawback of halogen bulbs, however, is that contact with skin can weaken the glass bulbs due to alkaline in the skin, causing the bulbs to expire prematurely.

Instructions

1

Ensure the key is not in the ignition of the 1999 Pontiac Grand Am and the headlight switch is in the "Off" position.

2

Open the hood.

3

Remove the eight push-pin clips on the splash guard that runs along the radiator rail. Use the needle-nose pliers to pull up on the center pin of the clips to unlock them and then remove the clips, making sure to keep track of the two different sizes, as you will replace them later.

4

Locate the two upside-down, L-shaped brackets at the rear of the headlight assembly. Lift each bracket up about an inch. Use the pliers to help pull the brackets up, if necessary.

5

Wiggle the headlight assembly forward, away from the Grand Am, being caul not to scratch the lens or the paint on the car. There are three guide pins that align the assembly and headlights in place. It may take some wiggling of the assembly to dislodge the guide pins.

6

Pull the headlight assembly forward far enough to reach in behind it with one hand, while supporting the assembly with the other.

7

Disconnect the wire harness plug going into the headlight bulb socket.

8

Turn the headlight bulb bezel counterclockwise about one-third of a turn to align the retaining tabs to the notches and then remove the bezel and headlight bulb from the back of the assembly.

9

Put on the latex gloves before getting the replacement bulb, to avoid accidentally touching the glass bulb.

10

Place the bulb into the bezel and then insert the bulb and bezel into the headlight assembly, properly aligning the retaining tabs to the correct notches. Once the bulb and bezel are in place, turn the bezel clockwise one-third turn to lock it into place.

11

Plug the wire harness back into the headlight bulb socket and then align the guide pins of the headlight assembly to their respective seats. Push inward on the assembly to seat the guide pins.

12

Test the headlight bulb by turning the ignition key and then the headlight switch before pushing the retaining brackets back into place. Remove the tools and close the hood when finished.

Head gasket failures can be caused by high mileage or simply an aging vehicle, but are often due to an overheated engine. Additional repairs may be needed after the inspection.

Vehicle Year

The cost of having your head gasket replaced on your 2.5L Dodge Dakota will be about the same whether your vehicle was one of the first 2.5L Dakotas (e.g., before 1990) or one of the last 2.5L Dakotas (around 2002, for example).

Parts

The parts needed to replace the head gasket may include coolant, engine oil, a gasket sealer, a head gasket set, an oil drain plug gasket and an oil filter. The cost of these parts in 2010, according to RepairPal, can range from $320 to $450.

Labor

The labor costs will probably total between $445 and $570 (as of 2010) depending on location.

Total Cost

The total cost of labor and parts to replace a head gasket on a 2.5L four-cylinder Dodge Dakota will probably be between $767 and $1,016. Additional repairs may be required and add to the overall cost of repairing the vehicle.

Warning, or "Check Engine," lights in vehicles usually turn on for a reason. On rare occasions, however, a warning light will come on as a result of a fuse or something equally simple and cheap to fix. The warning light signifies a problem somewhere in the vehicle and indicates the need to run diagnostics. In most vehicles, you must plug a small computer into the car, usually below the steering wheel on the drivers side, which provides codes for any detected problems. After addressing the codes, you must reset the warning light.

Instructions

1

Purchase a car code scanner, or visit a local auto parts dealer; large chains will often have a car code scanner they use to check codes for customers. Car code scanners run approximately $50 and up as of 2010 and are available through websites or large auto parts stores. If you have a relatively new vehicle, you dont need to invest in a scanner; simply visit a local shop and ask the clerk to check the error code causing the warning light on the vehicle.

2

Consult the vehicles owners manual to locate the port where the code scanner plugs in. This port is usually on the drivers side, below steering-wheel level. Plug the scanner into the port, and follow the on-screen prompts, if any. Some scanners automatically detect the error code and provide it. Auto parts store clerks can record the code and look it up in their database or a book of error codes to find out the problem. Costlier scanners will present the error code and the problem, saving the extra step of looking up the code.

3

Reset the engine or warning light by pressing the "erase" button on the code reader.

All welds are visually inspected to determine whether they have been adequately placed and have the necessary strength to hold steel together. While it is technically possible to perform weld inspection with specialized diagnostic equipment, this is generally not necessary in anything but a welding certification testing situation. Basic welding allows for quick inspections so that work can either progress or be redone in a quick and efficient manner.

Instructions

1

Look at the back of any type of weld after it has cooled, but before the part is cleaned. You should see discoloration on the back of the steel that has been welded that ranges in color from dark blue to nearly brown. If this area is uniformly smooth and colored, the weld penetration, or how deeply the weld penetrated the steel, was successful. If there is a hole in the metal, this is called weld burn-through, and is a weld failure. On the other hand, the appearance of small bumps within the colored region are called weld melt-through. These are acceptable in most welding situations.

2

Inspect the weld fillet in steel welded at angles to each other. This is the actual deposited weld filler that builds up during the welding process. It should be uniform and attractive, with edges smoothed into the surrounding metal rather than clumped up on top of one another. In addition to this, the fillet should not exhibit any signs of cavities in the filler metal. This is indicative of poor weld quality, and the part should be remade.

3

Measure spot welds with a metal ruler to determine their strength. The spot weld should be no greater than 3/8 inch in diameter, and no more than 1/32 inch high. The back of the spot weld should exhibit a round blue coloration and a tiny dimple in the exact center of the weld. Evidence of holes in the steel indicate a poor quality weld.

4

Inspect butt welds to make certain that they exhibit the proper coloration on the back of the welded steel. If they have the right coloration, inspect the weld itself. The weld should not exceed 3/16 inch in width, and should be no higher than 1/16 inch above the steel being welded. In addition, the weld should completely cover any gap between the two pieces of steel being welded. A hole or a gap indicates a poor quality weld, and the part should be remade.

A limited-slip differential and a locking differential are not the same thing. Both are designed to maximize available torque to the wheel or wheels with the most traction, but they accomplish this in different ways and have different applications.

Open Differential Problem

Both limited-slip and locking differentials solve a problem with the standard open differential found on most passenger cars. This open differential allows the wheels to spin at different speeds to help in cornering, but will allow excessive wheel spin when one wheel loses traction. This tricks the system into sending too much torque to the slipping wheel.

Locking Differential

A locking differentials key feature is its ability to force both of the drive wheels to rotate at the exact same speed regardless of traction needs. The benefit of the locking mechanism, either automatic or driver-selectable, comes in when one of the wheels is slipping. The differential will continue to send torque to both wheels equally and the wheel with traction will provide motion.

Limited-Slip Differential

A limited-slip differential allows the wheels to continue to turn at different speeds without locking to each other completely but can limit the amount of torque sent to the spinning wheel and maximize the torque sent to the wheel with the best traction. The limited-slip differential is common on sports cars as well as all-wheel drive vehicles.

The drive shaft is the part of a vehicle that transfers power from the engine, via the transmission, to the drive wheels. On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential transfers the energy to a drive shaft that runs the length of the vehicle. On front-wheel-drive cars, like the 2001 Infiniti I30, the shaft is in two parts, one on each side of the vehicle, and runs side to side. Notice that the procedure differs slightly depending on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels and raise the car. Support the car with a jack stand on each side, remove the lug nuts and take off both wheels.

2

Use a socket wrench with a long cheater bar attached to remove the wheel bearing locking nut.

3

Use a socket wrench to remove the two nuts on the two lower strut mounting bolts, and remove the bolts.

4

Remove the brake line from the strut by removing it from the attaching clip.

5

Remove the right drive shaft first if the vehicle has an automatic transmission. Place a block of wood against the drive shaft where it protrudes from the hub and strike it lightly several times with a hammer to separate it from the knuckle. Do not do this without the block of wood in place. If the shaft uses to separate, you will need to use a tie rod puller to remove it. The puller fits over the drive shaft and separates the two parts as you tighten it.

6

Pull the right drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the car has an automatic transmission, insert a tool such as a large screwdriver or punch into the hole where the right drive shaft fits and strike it with a hammer to separate the left drive shaft. You can then simply pull the left drive shaft out of the transaxle. If the Infiniti is equipped with a manual transmission, you will need to repeat the procedure described in Step 5 on the left side of the car as well.

The Mazda 626 is a series of cars manufactured by Mazda for the export market from 1979 to 2002. The 1991 Mazda 626 was a mid-size car, and the LX designator indicates a trim level in the United Kingdom. The engine for the 1991 Mazda 626 uses fuel injection, which requires the fuel pump to deliver pressurized fuel. The fuel pump for this vehicle is accessible from the rear passenger compartment.

Instructions

1

Start the engine, and remove the relay connector under the left side of the instrument panel. Allow the engine to stall, and turn the ignition switch off. Connect the relay connector.

2

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Press the clip on each end of the rear seat to release the cushion, and remove the rear seat cushion. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly. Remove the screws on the access cover for the fuel pump assembly, and open the access cover.

3

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly, and remove the mounting screws on the fuel pump assembly with a socket wrench. Discard the old gasket for the fuel pump assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and remove the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit. Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel pump.

4

Attach the fuel sending unit to the new fuel pump, and fasten the mounting nuts for the fuel sending unit with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel sending unit, and place a new gasket on the fuel tank. Install the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank, and fasten the mounting screws for the fuel pump assembly. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel pump assembly.

5

Replace the access cover, and fasten the mounting screws for the access cover with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly, and replace the rear seat cushion. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal, and start the engine. Check the fuel system for leaks.

The Toyota Avalon is a full-size luxury car produced in the United States since 1994. The outside mirrors on the Avalon are fairly easy to remove from the vehicle, and most of the work deals with exposing the cables and electrical connectors for the mirrors. In order to do that you need to remove a number of panels from the interior of the vehicle. The procedure is the same for both of the outside mirrors.

Instructions

1

Detach the two clips and three claws from the armrest with a screwdriver, and remove the armrest from the vehicle. Detach the clip and five claws from the upper armrest panel, leaving the master switch for the power window still attached.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector and the three retaining screws for the power window master switch with a socket wrench, and remove the master switch for the power window from the upper armrest panel. Detach the seven claws from the lower armrest panel, and remove the lower armrest panel with the door lock switch still attached.

3

Detach the electrical connector for door lock switch, and detach the two claws on the door lock switch with a screwdriver. Remove the door lock switch from the lower armrest panel.

4

Place a clip remover in front of the door handle between the door trim and the mounting plate for the door handle. Hold the clip remover in place and turn the handle to remove it from the door panel. Detach the clip and claw from the garnish, and remove the garnish from the door panel.

5

Remove the three retaining screws and eight clips from the door panel with a screwdriver. Pull the door panel upward, and detach the door handle from the door with a screwdriver. Push the door handle forward, then away from the door to release the claw on the door handle. Remove the door handle from the door with the cables still attached.

6

Disconnect both cables from the inside handle and remove the service hole cover from the front door. Detach the electrical connector from the outer mirror, unfasten the three retaining nuts from the outer mirror with a screwdriver and remove the mirror from the vehicle.

7

Install the new mirror, and secure the retaining nuts with a screwdriver. Attach the electrical connector to the mirror and replace the service hole cover on the front door. Connect the cables to the inside door handle.

8

Mount the inside door handle to the door, and replace the door panel. Attach the garnish for the door handle, and fasten the door handle to the door. Install the door lock switch to the lower armrest panel, and install the lower armrest panel to the vehicle. Install the master switch to the upper armrest panel, and install the upper armrest panel to the vehicle.

The Jeep Wrangler first appeared in 1987 as a replacement for the CJ model Jeeps developed at the beginning of World War II. The Wrangler is a sport utility vehicle (SUV) available in two- or four-wheel-drive. The Wrangler is also offered with either a soft convertible top or a removable hardtop. The Wranglers stock exhaust headers may need to be removed for repair, replacement or to install aftermarket tubular headers.

Instructions

1

Drive the vehicle onto a set of automotive ramps and chock the rear wheels. Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool before getting under the vehicle.

2

Crawl under the vehicle and locate the exhaust manifolds bolted to each side of the engine block. Note the location of the exhaust pipe connections on each manifold. Spray penetrating fluid onto the upper exhaust retaining bolts that thread into the underside of the exhaust manifolds and allow it to soak in for several minutes. Loosen and remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet wrench and set them aside.

3

Open the hood and loosen the negative battery cable clamp with a wrench. Lift the cable straight off of the terminal and push it aside. Locate the oxygen sensor wiring harness on the upper side of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Press the release tab on the connector and pull it straight out of the oxygen sensor and set it aside.

4

Locate the retaining bolts on the inside of each of the black plastic front fender flares. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull each flare away from the front fender to create more working room to reach the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.

5

Label the spark plug wires with masking tape to show which cylinder they belong to. Grasp each plug wire from the base of the spark plugs and pull straight up to remove them to access the exhaust manifolds.

6

Unscrew the retaining bolts from the heat shield on the drivers side exhaust manifold with a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shield from the engine bay and set it aside.

7

Remove the retaining bolts from the upper and lower mounting flanges on the drivers side exhaust manifold with the socket and ratchet. Caully work the manifold out of the engine bay. Repeat for this for the passengers side manifold.

Exposure of a metal surface to oxygen and water causes it to rust. The resultant structural damage can be substantial and extensive if left unchecked. In addition to the structural damage, rust can depreciate the value of a vehicle and spoil its look. And while periodic checks can help in checking the spread of rust, it cannot be completely avoided. The good news, however, is that rust can be removed.

Instructions

Removing Rust

1

Park the vehicle in a shaded location, out of direct sunlight and roll up the windows.

2

Put on protective gloves, dust mask and safety goggles.

3

Define the area of work. To do this, mask the area around the rusted spot with a tarp that has been sealed with painters tape.

4

Apply the rust-removing solvent to the rust-affected area. These solvents are available at auto body stores.

5

Reapply thin coats of rust-removing solvent to the rusted area. This should be done at regular intervals of 10 to 15 minutes over the next two hours. Ideally, you should be able to apply seven or eight coats of the solvent.

6

Wipe the final coat of rust solvent on the rusted area with a dry shop towel and rub vigorously until the rust comes off and there is a shiny and lective surface.

7

Apply a thin layer of auto body glaze to the cleaned metal surface using a soft-bristled paintbrush. Allow it to dry.

Primer and Paint

8

Prepare the surface for the primer by marking rough groves in the affected area. To do this, rub the affected area (coated with the auto body glaze) with 400-grit sandpaper. This will mark the surface with rough groves, making it easy for the primer to sit.

9

Apply thin coats of the primer to the surface. Use a high-quality auto body primer. Ideally, three coats of the primer should be applied at intervals of 10 minutes.

10

Allow the primer to cure overnight.

11

Using a 150-grit paper, lightly hand sand the primer treated area until the surface is smooth.

12

Apply three to four thin coats of paint to the newly cleaned surface. The interval between each coat of paint should ideally be two hours, or as long as recommended by the manufacturer.